Derby Street and Chestnut Street
Visitors to Old Salem who try to identify the scenes of the little town’s ancient glory will find small comfort on Derby Street.
Stretching for the distance of half a mile along the water-front, this was once the center of the thriving commerce of the place. Along one side of the street were the counting-houses of the merchant princes, around which hung the atmosphere and flavor of thrilling maritime romance. Practically the entire male population, young and old, was engaged directly or indirectly in the business of such as go down to the sea in ships. Ship-builders and sailors, craftsmen and navigators—Derby Street hummed with their activities. Before the ports of New York and Boston had acquired touch with Oriental trade, Salem had already dipped deep into the coffers of the East; and the ambition of her bold adventurers was well expressed in the motto upon the seal of the town—‘Divitis Indiæ usque ad ultimum sinum’—‘Unto the farthest bay of wealthy Ind.’
Some idea of the volume of the trade whose center was in Derby Street may be gained from the fact that in thirty years customs duties totaled more than eleven million dollars, while over two hundred and fifty vessels flew the flag in every corner of the seven seas.
All this brought into Salem an element not only of wealth and comfort, but of culture and refinement as well; and so on Derby Street, across from the counting-houses where the money was made, arose the handsome homes of those who had made it, and to whom it brought the means of maintaining a high standard of living. Here were to be found all the finest residences of Salem; it was in truth the ‘Court end’ of the town.
But to-day all is changed. With but a single exception here and there, Derby Street presents a squalid and forlorn succession of shabby frame houses, occupied mostly by foreigners. Commerce consists in such humble trade as goes on in Greek restaurants and Polish markets. The splendid homes of merchants and ship-owners no longer gratify the eye; and what is of note to-day in architectural beauty and taste in Salem must be sought elsewhere than in its original location.
With the advent of the railroad, the maritime commerce of the town began to decline. The counting-houses gradually closed. No longer did the boys of the town, on the lookout for returning ships, descrying a familiar rig or figurehead at the harbor’s mouth, race for Derby Street to bring the earliest news and claim the customary reward. No longer did the ship-owner pace the ‘Captain’s Walk,’ glass in hand, to raise on the distant horizon the topsails of some overdue vessel. The ancient glory was departed; and unwilling to linger where reminders of past grandeur continually met the eye, the men of wealth and standing with one accord took thought for a spot where they might rebuild, and form a sort of neighborhood community where the traditions of maritime greatness should be maintained in an atmosphere all their own. A move was first made in the direction of Beverly, but meeting some obstacles connected with land titles, another selection was made, and Chestnut Street, with its double row of beautiful and artistic Colonial mansions, stretches its half-mile under the arching trees.
Some account such as the foregoing is necessary for the understanding of the grouping of so large a number of splendid residences in one quarter of the town. Washington Square, to be sure, presents a somewhat similar case; but it was Chestnut Street which was considered the most choice and exclusive section. It ‘kept itself to itself,’ as the saying was: and woe to the social climber who might unsponsored seek to make his way into the royal group.
As at first laid out, the land upon which each house on Chestnut Street was located extended through to Essex Street on the one side and to Broad Street on the other. The regret often finds expression that these fine homes are built so close to the sidewalk as to lose the setting of lawn and shrubbery at the front. The chief reason for this probably lies in the fact that the garden was very dear to Salem hearts, and all the space possible was desired for its development. In the rear of many an old mansion may still be found, somewhat shrunken in size, an old garden which is a veritable spot of beauty. Some of these were laid out in the formal Italian manner, like that of the Ropes Memorial on Essex Street; of the old-fashioned sort are those of the Cabot-Low, the Pierce-Johonnot and the Cook-Oliver houses. The Cabot garden used to boast of over six hundred varieties of tulips, imported by its owner from Holland. On the street itself, the handsome shade-trees were all set out by the owners of the houses on either side.
HOUSE OF MRS. EMERY JOHNSON
362 Essex Street
Walking down Chestnut Street to-day, one is impressed by the beautiful porches and doorways which face one another across the broad avenue between. They seem to speak of cordial hospitality and to extend a welcome to expected guests.
Such hospitality was a well-known characteristic in fact of Salem homes; and on Chestnut Street it was notably exemplified, though in its own exclusive way.
Socially Chestnut Street was exceedingly gay. Many were the ‘parties’ which took place within those beautiful homes, and many the distinguished guests entertained there. Invitations were always delivered by the children, who went from door to door with note or message telling of the place and time. Often the party was an all-day affair, to which the ladies went each with her beaded bag containing her work. Tea was served at four o’clock, out-of-doors if the weather permitted, indoors if necessary. ‘Nimble-cake’ was a favorite adjunct of the cup of tea. In the evening the gentlemen appeared; and one may imagine the effect of small-clothes and ruffles, silken gowns and India shawls, amid the handsome furnishings and lavish architectural beauty of the spacious Colonial rooms and hallways.
Public balls and receptions were equally gay and equally exclusive. Usually held in Hamilton Hall, on the corner of Chestnut and Cambridge Streets, they included only such persons as were socially vouched for by the proper authorities.
On these occasions the finest silver and linen were sent over for the table, as were rugs for the floor, by the housewives. Refreshments were available all the evening, and later on dinner was served, featuring the favorite dainties of the time—not forgetting ‘sangaree,’ for the mixing of which there was always abundance of imported stock.
THE HOUSE OF MRS. GEORGE WHEATLAND
374 Essex Street
At these Assemblies the students from Harvard College, as it then was, were very popular, and found many a fair partner among the Salem beauties, of whom there was no lack. No less a personage than President Washington himself commented, at the time of his reception at Assembly Hall in 1789, upon the large number, upwards of a hundred, of handsome ladies present.
Mention of the Chestnut Street festivities would hardly be complete without reference to the Salem Cadets, an exclusive military organization resembling the famous Seventh Regiment of New York. They had an armory at 136 Essex Street, formerly the residence of Colonel Francis Peabody, to which a drill-shed was added. In the ‘Banqueting Hall’ of the Peabody mansion Prince Arthur of England, in the country for the purpose of attending the funeral of George Peabody, the London banker, in 1870, was entertained at dinner. This handsome room was finished in carved oak in the Elizabethan Gothic style. The figure of Queen Victoria appears over the fireplace, supported by mailed figures.
This woodwork has been removed to the Masonic Temple on Washington Street, where it adorns one of the smaller rooms. The Peabody house was demolished in 1908.
Wearing their famous scarlet uniforms, and swinging down Chestnut Street, their favorite parade-ground, with handkerchiefs waving from the classic porches on either side, the Salem Cadets lend a touch of color and life which is most attractive against the Colonial background.