Chapter Four
METHODS OF STRINGING WARP
Warp of three widths
The adjustable loom can be strung with warp of three widths, one-half inch, three-eighths inch, and three-sixteenths inch, thus giving opportunity for a variety of materials.
For heavy rags, candle wicking, etc., wind the warp strings around three teeth in the head and foot pieces. This will give a warp of one-half inch—that is, one-half inch from one string to the other.
For silk, silkoline, finer rags, carpet ravelings, double wool, etc., wind the warp strings around two teeth, thus making a warp of three-eighths inches.
Kindergarten patterns
For double wool, worsted, rope silk, chenille, or raffia, where one wishes to reproduce kindergarten designs, as in paper-weaving, place the warp strings around one tooth only. This makes a close warp of three-sixteenths inch, which helps to form the design with the woof threads. In this case the warp should be of the same material as the woof. In kindergarten patterns the woof threads determine the color effect. It is better to have the children weave the pattern first with practice mats and slats, particularly if they have never had experience in the kindergarten. Suggestions for weaving kindergarten designs are given under the head of Raffia.
Plaids
For a plaid effect, string the warp at regular intervals, with different colors. Then weave the same colors at equal intervals to form the plaid. (See illustrations, pages 92, 98, and 101.) Shawls, carriage blankets, etc., woven in this way are very attractive.
Stripes
A striped warp is strung in the same way. (See illustrations, pages 101 and 117.) The stripes could be continued through the mat, if desired, by weaving only one color in the woof. By weaving two colors squares are obtained such as those seen in the corners.
Materials for warp
For weaving with carpet ravelings or rags, and sometimes double wool, where a plain effect is desired, the warp should be of common twine, as near the color of the work as possible. Carpet thread is good, especially for the double warp in Turkish rugs. Balls of warp string can be obtained at department stores. Oriental cord comes in several colors, and can be had at a few cents a ball at the notion and stationery counters in department stores.
How to string a warp
The warp should always be one continuous string, and several inches should be left at each end in order to fasten securely when the work is finished. If preferred, the warp ends can be fastened before the weaving is commenced. Care should be taken to place the first and last strings of the warp directly over the rods, and, in weaving, to pass the woof threads entirely around the rods and strings to insure straight edges. The ends of wool warp threads should be wound in and out of the notches to the right and left of rods, to fasten them until the weaving is finished. It sometimes happens that little children, and more especially those who are blind, pull up the warp strings when near the end of the work. In such cases it is a good plan to pass a rubber band over the warp strings at the top of the loom and behind the bars, back of the head piece, making it set up close by putting it around one tooth at each end. In this way the warp strings cannot possibly slip out of the notches.
Splicing with a weaver's knot
A raffia warp
Some teachers splice the warp with a weaver's knot, an illustration of which can be seen in any large dictionary. The continuous string is to be preferred, however, as experience has proved that even a weaver's knot will sometimes fail to stand the stress of weaving. It is very difficult to splice a warp of raffia. It is better to knot the warp threads in pairs (see directions, page 46), leaving two or three inches beyond the head and foot. These ends may be used for a fringe by tearing very fine, or they may be run down in the woven part with a darning needle, as rattan is run down in basket work.
To fasten wool or silk warp strings
When the warp is correct
When the weaving is done and the mat lifted from the loom, the ends of the wool warp strings can be run in along the sides with a tape needle. If the warp be of twine, it is better to tie the end to the next warp string and allow the fringe to cover the knot; or, as in the case of silkoline, the woof strips can be caught over the warp strings with silk of the same color in order to hide them. Only experience can teach the tightness with which a warp should be strung. Worsted, carpet thread and twine will stretch as the work progresses, and raffia will not. If the warp be too loose the work will be uneven and the strings will slip out of the notches. If it be too tight it will be difficult to finish the last two or three inches and the woof threads will look crowded. The best test is to place the hand upon the warp before commencing to weave. If it feels firm and does not push down too easily, but springs slightly beneath the hand, it is probably correct.
To string a warp for fringe
To string the warp threads in pairs
Where the warp is of the same material as the woof and it is desired to extend it to form a fringe, it can be done in the following manner: After the loom is adjusted for the size required, cut the warp strings so as to allow two or three inches beyond the head and foot pieces. If you intend to knot the fringe in some fanciful way after the weaving is finished, allow four or five inches. Take two threads, knot so as to leave the required length for fringe below the foot piece, then pass around one or two teeth, as the case may be, draw tightly to the head piece and knot firmly on the upper side, leaving a fringe of the same length there. Knot the strings in pairs in this way until the whole warp is strung. It will be noticed that the rods are placed beneath the notches of odd numbers. In knotting warp strings in pairs it will be found necessary, when the last tooth is reached, to do one of two things—either allow one string to lie beyond the rod, or, having strung the warp within one tooth of the rod, to start the next string in the same notch, bringing the two strings together. This will bring one string on top of the rod and none beyond. In the first case, the string beyond the rod must be taken up in weaving with the one on top of the rod. Experience has proved the second method to be the better one.
Double warp for Turkish rugs, etc., with fringe
Kiz-Kilim rugs have perforated or open-work patterns. To produce this effect string a double warp through every notch in the foot and head pieces; that is, use two strings in each notch, tying in pairs for fringe as before. Use a brownish white carpet thread. With strong black thread string through every other notch to outline perpendicular sides of squares in the pattern. Your warp will be strung three-sixteenths inch, but the black threads will be three-eighths inch. This will enable you to keep the patterns straight as the work progresses.
A Kiz-Kilim rug pattern
Patterns for Turkish rugs
In drawing designs for Turkish rugs, where the pattern is to be placed under the warp, it is better to make a squared paper first. Lay the head piece of the loom upon unlined paper. Place a dot at every other notch. Draw perpendicular lines first, then dot for horizontal lines. The result will be a foundation to fit your loom. If the squared paper of the kindergarten be used the squares will be either too large or too small to correspond with the notches in the loom. It will be found very easy to transfer a pattern from a rug to the paper. Fasten the pattern under the warp by overhanding to the rods, taking care to have the black strings directly over the perpendicular lines in the pattern.
Patterns for Navajo blankets
Patterns for Navajo blankets are usually triangular. Draw on unlined paper and fasten under the warp as before.
To string a continuous warp for long strips
Rugs and similar articles may be made of any length by stringing a continuous warp. After the length has been decided upon, cut the warp strings twice as long. Place the middle of one string around the first tooth of the foot piece (or two or three, according to the width of warp desired) and bring up the two ends firmly to the first tooth in the head piece. Knot securely and let the long ends extend beyond the head piece. If desired they can be wound on spools, or around the tops of the rods, to prevent tangling. Continue until all the warp is strung. Observe the instructions given before for stringing warp strings in pairs. It is not necessary to weave the loom full each time, as the last inch is very slow work, but when the weaving is near the head piece draw out the rods, lift it from the notches, pass it down to the foot piece so that the part which was at the head is now at the foot, untie the knots so that the work will lie close to the foot piece and knot the warp strings as before at the head piece. This can be done as many times as desired.
Methods of fastening long strips together
For afghans, slumber robes, couch covers, etc., crochet with plain stitch or baste on oil-cloth and weave together with tape needle, making it as nearly like the original weaving as possible. By studying Turkish rugs and curtains one can learn how to put strips together with a fancy stitch somewhat like our feather stitch.
Strips for floor rugs should be basted on oil-cloth and the warp strings in the two edges caught together at intervals, running the connecting thread through the loops so as to be invisible. Finish the outside edges by stitching on a tape of the same color, by machine.
Table covers, afghans, slumber robes, or large rugs
By making several of these long strips and fastening them together one can have a table cover, afghan, slumber robe, or a large rug.
Floor rugs
The floor rug shown in the illustration on page 100 (1-1/4 yards by 3/4 yard) is woven in strips with a continuous warp. The center strip is one yard long and nine inches wide. It is made of deep cardinal carpet wool. The strips of black, nine inches wide at the sides and ends, terminate diagonally, as seen in the illustration. The black diagonal lines show where the weaving ends. The warp is then tied and cut close to the weaving. The strips are to be sewn or crocheted together.
Fine weaving
To produce a design with the woof
For very fine weaving, where it is necessary for the warp threads to touch each other in order to produce a design with the woof, string a double warp in every notch with the same material. Then, with a tape needle, separate the warp threads, twist one over the other so that all will lie side by side, and secure them by weaving a few times across the loom. By using this method, one can have a close warp on the wooden looms.
Warp for doll towels
In stringing warp in pairs for doll towels, have two strings on each bar and one extending one notch beyond at each side. This makes a good fringe for the edges of the towel.