MATURIN M. BALLOU
BOSTON AND NEW YORK
HOUGHTON, MIFFLIN AND COMPANY
The Riverside Press, Cambridge
1892
Copyright, 1892,
By MATURIN M. BALLOU.
All rights reserved.
The Riverside Press, Cambridge, Mass., U. S. A.
Electrotyped and Printed by H. O. Houghton & Company.
DEDICATED
TO
CAPTAIN E. C. BAKER
OF THE
STEAMSHIP VIGILANCIA
WITH WARM APPRECIATION OF HIS QUALITIES
AS A GENTLEMAN
AND AN ACCOMPLISHED SEAMAN
PREFACE.
"I am a part of all that I have seen," says Tennyson, a sentiment which every one of large experience will heartily indorse. With the extraordinary facilities for travel available in modern times, it is a serious mistake in those who possess the means, not to become familiar with the various sections of the globe. Vivid descriptions and excellent photographs give us a certain knowledge of the great monuments of the world, both natural and artificial, but the traveler always finds the reality a new revelation, whether it be the marvels of a Yellowstone Park, a vast oriental temple, Alaskan glaciers, or the Pyramids of Ghiza. The latter, for instance, do not differ from the statistics which we have so often seen recorded, their great, dominating outlines are the same as pictorially delineated, but when we actually stand before them, they are touched by the wand of enchantment, and spring into visible life. Heretofore they have been shadows, henceforth they are tangible and real. The best descriptions fail to inspire us, experience alone can do that. What words can adequately depict the confused grandeur of the Falls of Schaffhausen; the magnificence of the Himalayan range,—roof-tree of the world; the thrilling beauty of the Yosemite Valley; the architectural loveliness of the Taj Mahal, of India; the starry splendor of equatorial nights; the maritime charms of the Bay of Naples; or the marvel of the Midnight Sun at the North Cape? It is personal observation alone which truly satisfies, educating the eye and enriching the understanding. If we can succeed in imparting, a portion of our enjoyment to others, we enhance our own pleasure, and therefore these notes of travel are given to the public.
M. M. B.
| CONTENTS. | |
| page | |
| Commencement of a Long Journey.—The GulfStream.—Hayti.—Sighting St. Thomas.—ShipRock.—Expert Divers.—Fidgety Old Lady.—An ImportantIsland.—The Old Slaver.—Aborigines.—St. ThomasCigars.—Population.—Tri-Mountain.—The NegroParadise.—Hurricanes.—Variety of Fish.—CoalingShip.—The Firefly Dance.—A Weird Scene.—An AntiqueAnchor | 1 |
| Curious Seaweed.—Professor Agassiz.—Myth of a LostContinent.—Island of Martinique.—An AttractivePlace.—Statue of the Empress Josephine.—Birthplace of Madamede Maintenon.—City of St. Pierre.—Mont Pelée.—HighFlavored Specialty.—Grisettes of Maritinque.—A BotanicalGarden.—Defective Drainage.—A Fatal Enemy.—A CannibalSnake.—The Climate | 33 |
| English Island of Barbadoes.—Bridgetown theCapital.—The Manufacture of Rum.—A GeographicalExpert.—Very English.—A Pest ofAnts.—Exports.—The Ice House.—A DensePopulation.—Educational.—Marine Hotel.—Habits ofGambling.—Hurricanes.—Curious Antiquities.—TheBarbadoes Leg.—Wakeful Dreams.—Absence ofTwilight.—Departure from the Island | 51 |
| Curious Ocean Experiences.—The DelicateNautilus.—Flying-Fish.—The Southern Cross.—Speaking aShip at Sea.—Scientific Navigation.—South America as aWhole.—Fauna and Flora.—Natural Resources of a WonderfulLand.—Rivers, Plains, and Mountain Ranges.—AboriginalTribes.—Population.—Political Divisions.—CivilWars.—Weakness of South American States | 68 |
| City of Pará.—The Equatorial Line.—SpanishHistory.—The King of Waters.—Private Gardens.—DomesticLife in Northern Brazil.—Delicious Pineapples.—FamilyPets.—Opera House.—Mendicants.—A GrandAvenue.—Botanical Garden.—India-Rubber Tree.—Gatheringthe Raw Material.—Monkeys.—The Royal Palm.—Splendor ofEquatorial Nights | 94 |
| Island of Marajo.—Rare and Beautiful Birds.—OriginalMode of SecuringHumming-Birds.—Maranhão.—Educational.—Value of NativeForests.—Pernambuco.—Difficulty of Landing.—AnIll-Chosen Name.—Local Scenes.—Uncleanly Habits of thePeople.—Great Sugar Mart.—Native Houses.—A QuaintHostelry.—Catamarans.—A Natural Breakwater.—Sailingdown the Coast | 115 |
| Port of Bahia.—A Quaint Old City.—Former Capital ofBrazil.—Whaling Interests.—BeautifulPanorama.—Tramways.—No Color Line Here.—The SedanChair.—Feather Flowers.—A Great Orange Mart.—PassionFlower Fruit.—Coffee, Sugar, and Tobacco.—A CoffeePlantation.—Something about Diamonds.—Health of theCity.—Curious Tropical Street Scenes | 138 |
| Cape Frio.—Rio Janeiro.—A SplendidHarbor.—Various Mountains.—Botafogo Bay.—TheHunchback.—Farewell to the Vigilancia.—Tijuca.—ItalianEmigrants.—City Institutions.—PublicAmusements.—Street Musicians.—Churches.—NarrowThoroughfares.—Merchants' Clerks.—Railroads inBrazil.—Natural Advantages of the City.—The PublicPlazas.—Exports | 155 |
| Outdoor Scenes in Rio Janeiro.—The LittleMarmoset.—The Fish Market.—Secluded Women.—The RomishChurch.—Botanical Garden.—Various Species ofTrees.—Grand Avenue of Royal Palms.—AboutHumming-Birds.—Climate of Rio.—Surrounded by YellowFever.—The Country Inland.—Begging on theStreets.—Flowers.—"Portuguese Joe."—SocialDistinctions | 180 |
| Petropolis.—Summer Residence of the Citizens ofRio.—Brief Sketch of the late Royal Family.—Dom Pedro'sPalace.—A Delightful Mountain Sanitarium.—A Successful butBloodless Revolution.—Floral Delights.—MountainScenery.—Heavy Gambling.—A GermanSettlement.—Cascatinha.—Remarkable Orchids.—LocalTypes.—A Brazilian Forest.—Compensation | 201 |
| Port of Santos.—Yellow Fever Scourge.—Down the Coastto Montevideo.—The Cathedral.—Pamperos.—DomesticArchitecture.—A Grand Thoroughfare.—CityInstitutions.—Commercial Advantages.—The OperaHouse.—The Bull-Fight.—Beggars on Horseback.—CityShops.—A Typical Character.—Intoxication.—The CampoSanto.—Exports.—Rivers and Railways | 217 |
| Buenos Ayres.—Extent of the ArgentineRepublic.—Population.—Narrow Streets.—Large PublicSquares.—Basques.—Poor Harbor.—RailwaySystem.—River Navigation.—Tramways.—TheCathedral.—Normal Schools.—Newspapers.—PublicBuildings.—Calle Florida.—A Busy City.—Mode offurnishing Milk.—Environs.—Commercial and PoliticalGrowth.—The New Capital | 244 |
| City of Rosario.—Its Population.—A PretentiousChurch.—Ocean Experiences.—Morbid Fancies.—Strait ofMagellan.—A Great Discoverer.—LocalCharacteristics.—Patagonians and Fuegians.—GiantKelp.—Unique Mail Box.—Punta Arenas.—An Ex-PenalColony.—The Albatross.—Natives.—A NakedPeople.—Whales.—Sea-Birds.—Glaciers.—MountSarmiento.—A Singular Story | 271 |
| The Land of Fire.—Cape Horn.—In the OpenPacific.—Fellow Passengers.—Large Sea-Bird.—AnInteresting Invalid.—A Weary Captive.—A Broken-HeartedMother.—Study of the Heavens.—The Moon.—Chilian CivilWar.—Concepcion.—A Growing City.—CommercialImportance.—Cultivating City Gardens on a NewPlan.—Important Coal Mines.—Delicious Fruits | 297 |
| Valparaiso.—Principal South American Port of thePacific.—A Good Harbor.—Tallest Mountain on thisContinent.—The Newspaper Press.—Warlike Aspect.—Girlsas Car Conductors.—Chilian Exports.—ForeignMerchants.—Effects of Civil War.—Gambling in PrivateHouses.—Immigration.—Culture of theGrape.—Agriculture.—Island of Juan Fernandez | 315 |
| The Port of Callao.—A Submerged City.—PeruvianExports.—A Dirty and Unwholesome Town.—CinchonaBark.—The Andes.—The Llama.—A NationalDance.—City of Lima.—An Old and InterestingCapital.—Want of Rain.—Pizarro and His Crimes.—A GrandCathedral.—Chilian Soldiers.—Costly Churches ofPeru.—Roman Catholic Influence.—Desecration of theSabbath | 334 |
| A Grand Plaza.—Retribution.—The University ofLima.—Significance of AncientPottery.—Architecture.—Picturesque Dwelling.—DomesticScene.—Destructive Earthquakes.—Spanish Sway.—Women ofLima.—Street Costumes.—Ancient Bridge ofLima.—Newspapers.—Pawnbrokers'Shops.—Exports.—An Ancient Mecca.—Home by Way ofEurope. | 355 |