MATURIN M. BALLOU
L'ile de Cuba seule pourrait valoir un royaume.
L'Abbé Raynal.
ILLUSTRATED.
BOSTON:
PHILLIPS, SAMPSON AND COMPANY.
NEW YORK: J.C. DERBY.
PHILADELPHIA: LIPPINCOTT, GRAMBO & COMPANY.
1854.
Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1854, by
PHILLIPS, SAMPSON & CO.,
In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the District of Massachusetts.
Stereotyped by
HOBART & ROBBINS,
New England Type and Stereotype Foundery
BOSTON.
TO
His Friend,
FRANCIS A. DURIVAGE, ESQ.,
As a small Token of Regard for
HIS EXCELLENCE IN THOSE QUALITIES WHICH CONSTITUTE STERLING MANHOOD; AS A
TRUE AND WORTHY FRIEND; AS A RIPE SCHOLAR, AND A GRACEFUL AUTHOR,
This Volume
IS
CORDIALLY DEDICATED
BY
THE AUTHOR
PREFACE.
The remarkable degree of interest expressed on all sides, at the present time, relative to the island of Cuba, has led the author of the following pages to place together in this form a series of notes from his journal, kept during a brief residence upon the island. To these he has prefixed a historical glance at the political story of Cuba, that may not be unworthy of preservation. The fact that the subject-matter was penned in the hurry of observation upon the spot, and that it is thus a simple record of what would be most likely to engage and interest a stranger, is his excuse for the desultory character of the work. So critically is the island now situated, in a political point of view, that ere this book shall have passed through an edition, it may be no longer a dependency of Spain, or may have become the theatre of scenes to which its former convulsions shall bear no parallel.
In preparing the volume for the press, the author has felt the want of books of reference, bearing a late date. Indeed, there are none; and the only very modern records are those written in the desultory manner of hurried travellers. To the admirable work of the learned Ramon de la Sagra,—a monument of industry and intelligence,—the author of the following pages has been indebted for historical suggestions and data. For the privilege of consulting this, and other Spanish books and pamphlets, relative to the interests and history of the island, the author is indebted to the Hon. Edward Everett, who kindly placed them at his disposal. Where statistics were concerned, the several authorities have been carefully collated, and the most responsible given. The writer has preferred to offer the fresh memories of a pleasant trip to the tropics, to attempting a labored volume abounding in figures and statistics; and trusts that this summer book of a summer clime may float lightly upon the sea of public favor.M.M.B.
CONTENTS.
| [CHAPTER I.] | |
| The Island of Cuba—Early colonists—Island aborigines—First importation of slaves—Cortezand his followers—Aztecs—The law of races—Mexican aborigines—Valley ofMexico—Pizarro—The end of heroes—Retributive justice—Decadence of Spanishpower—History of Cuba—The rovers of the gulf—Havana fortified—The tyrantVelasquez—Office of Captain-general—Loyalty of the Cubans—Power of the captain-general—Cupidityof the government—The slave-trade—The British take Havana—GeneralDon Luis de las Casas—Don Francisco de Arranjo—Improvement,moral and physical, of Cuba, | 9 |
| [CHAPTER II.] | |
| The constitution of 1812—Revolution of La Granja—Political aspect of the island—Discontentamong the Cubans—The example before them—Simon Bolivar, the Liberator—Revolutionsof 1823 and 1826—General Lorenzo and the constitution—Theassumption of extraordinary power by Tacon—Civil war threatened—Tacon sustainedby royal authority—Despair of the Cubans—Military rule—A foreign press established—Programmeof the liberal party—General O'Donnell—The spoils—Influenceof the climate, | 25 |
| [CHAPTER III.] | |
| Armed intervention—Conspiracy of Cienfuegos and Trinidad—General Narciso Lopez—Theauthor's views on the subject—Inducements to revolt—Enormous taxation—Schemeof the patriots—Lopez's first landing, in 1850—Taking of Cardinas—Returnof the invaders—Effect upon the Cuban authorities—Roncali recalled—New captain-general—Lopez'ssecond expedition—Condition of the Invaders—Vicissitudes—Col.Crittenden—Battle of Las Pozas—Superiority of courage—Battle of Las Frias—Deathof Gen. Enna—The fearful finale of the expedition, | 38 |
| [CHAPTER IV.] | |
| Present condition of Cuba—Secret treaty with France and England—British plan forthe Africanization of the island—Sale of Cuba—Measures of General Pezuela—Registrationof slaves—Intermarriage of blacks and whites—Contradictory proclamations—Spanishduplicity—A Creole's view of the crisis and the prospect, | 54 |
| [CHAPTER V.] | |
| Geographical position of the island—Its size—The climate—Advice to invalids—Glanceat the principal cities—Matanzas—Puerto Principe—Santiago de Cuba—Trinidad—Thewriter's first view of Havana—Importance of the capital—Its literary institutions—Restrictionon Cuban youths and education—Glance at the city streets—Styleof architecture—Domestic arrangements of town houses—A word about Cuban ladies—Smallfeet—Grace of manners and general characteristics, | 66 |
| [CHAPTER VI.] | |
| Contrast between Protestant and Catholic communities—Catholic churches—Sabbathscenes in Havana—Devotion of the common people—The Plaza de Armas—Citysquares—The poor man's opera—Influence of music—La Dominica—The TaconPaseo—The Tacon Theatre—The Cathedral—Tomb of Columbus over the altar—Storyof the great Genoese pilot—His death—Removal of remains—The former greatwealth of the church in Cuba—Influence of the priests, | 80 |
| [CHAPTER VII.] | |
| Nudity of children and slaves—The street of the merchants—The currency of Cuba—TheSpanish army in the island—Enrolment of blacks—Courage of Spanish troops—Treatmentby the government—The garrote—A military execution—The market-menand their wares—The milk-man and his mode of supply—Glass windows—Curtainsfor doors—The Campo Santo, or burial-place of Havana—Treatment of the dead—Theprison—The fish-market of the capital, | 95 |
| [CHAPTER VIII.] | |
| The story of Marti, the smuggler, | 108 |
| [CHAPTER IX.] | |
| The lottery at Havana—Hospitality of the Spaniards—Flattery—Cuban ladies—Castilian,Parisian and American politeness—The bonnet in Cuba—Ladies' dresses—Thefan—Jewelry and its wear—Culture of flowers—Reflections—A most peculiarnarcotic—Cost of living on the island—Guines—The cock-pit—Training of thebirds—The garden of the world—Birds of the tropics—Condition of agriculture—Night-time—TheSouthern Cross—Natural resources of Cuba—Her wrongs andoppressions, | 116 |
| [CHAPTER X.] | |
| The volante and its belongings—The ancient town of Regla—The arena for the bull-fightsat Havana—A bull-fight as witnessed by the author at Regla—A national passionwith the Spanish people—Compared with old Roman sports—Famous bull-fighters—Personaldescription of Cuban ladies—Description of the men—Romance andthe tropics—The nobility of Cuba—Sugar noblemen—The grades of society—Theyeomanry of the island—Their social position—What they might be—Love of gambling, | 131 |
| [CHAPTER XI.] | |
| A sugar plantation—Americans employed—Slaves on the plantations—A coffee plantation—Cultureof coffee, sugar and tobacco—Statistics of agriculture—The cucullos,or Cuban fire-fly—Novel ornaments worn by the ladies—The Cuban mode of harnessingoxen—The montero and his horse—Curious style of out-door painting—Pettyannoyances to travellers—Jealousy of the authorities—Japan-like watchfulness—Questionablepolicy—Political condition of Cuba, | 145 |
| [CHAPTER XII.] | |
| Tacon's summary mode of justice, | 161 |
| [CHAPTER XIII.] | |
| Consumption of tobacco—The universal cigar—Lady smokers—The fruits of Cuba—Floura prohibited article—The royal palm—West Indian trees—Snakes, animals, etc.—TheCuban blood-hound—Mode of training him—Remarkable instinct—Importationof slaves—Their cost—Various African tribes—Superstitious belief—Tattooing—Healthof the negroes—Slave laws of the island—Food of the negroes—Spanishlaw of emancipation—General treatment of the slaves, | 171 |
| [CHAPTER XIV.] | |
| Pecuniary value of the slave-trade to Havana—The slave clippers—First introductionof slaves into Cuba—Monopoly of the traffic by England—Spain's disregard of treatystipulations—Spanish perfidy—Present condition of Spain—Her decadence—Influenceupon her American possessions—Slaves upon the plantations—The soil of Cuba—Mineralwealth of the island—The present condition of the people—The influencesof American progress—What Cuba might be, | 186 |
| [CHAPTER XV.] | |
| Area of Cuba—Extent of cultivated and uncultivated lands—Population—Proportionbetween the sexes—Ratio of legitimate to illegitimate births—Ratio between birthsand deaths—Agricultural statistics—Commerce and commercial regulations—Custom-houseand port charges—Exports and imports—Trade with the United States—Universitiesand schools—Education—Charitable institutions—Railroads—Temperature, | 201 |
| [CHAPTER XVI.] | |
| Retrospective thoughts—The bright side and dark side of the picture—Cuban institutionscontrasted with our own—Political sentiments of the Creoles—War footing—Loyaltyof the colony—Native men of genius—The Cubans not willing slaves—Ourown revolution—Apostles of rebellion—Moral of the Lopez expedition—Jealousy ofSpain—Honorable position of our government—Spanish aggressions on our flag—Purchaseof the island—Distinguished conservative opinion—The end | 214 |