FRIDAY, MAY 21st.
Awakened this morning about six o’clock by Mrs. S., always an early riser, who exclaims, “Get up! get up! we’re almost there.” “Almost where, my dear?” I sleepily inquire. “I don’t know where, but Mr. Terry, Mr. Brown, Mr. Horner, and Mr. Springer are all up, and they say we are nearly there,” she answers. I turn over, raise the blind, and look out of the window. “And Mr. McDonald says we’re going to have an early breakfast,” she adds, as she retreats down the aisle. That last information she knows will fetch me if nothing else will, but I’m still looking out of the window wondering where we are; thought at first we had lost our way in the intricate descent of the Tehachapi Range, got tangled up in the Loop, turned around, and were again entering Los Angeles.
What magic had been at work during the night? The world outside is teeming with verdant vegetation. Fruit-laden trees, rose-burdened bushes, green grass, and flowers everywhere. I quickly roll out of my berth and dress, or rather I nearly roll out of my berth while quickly dressing, for one inconvenience of this way of living is, you’ve got to dress and then get out of bed, watching yourself very closely that you don’t involuntarily get out before you’re ready, for when, with one leg in your pants and about to put the other one in, your car hits a curve, look out.
The first person I meet as I enter the smoker is the conductor who is running the train. “Good morning, captain; where are we?” I ask. “We are entering Port Costa, 25 miles from Oakland,” he answers. “Have you time to give me the number of your engine and the names of your crew?” I inquire, with every-ready notebook in hand, as he was about turning away, for the train is stopping at the station. “We left Mendota this morning at two o’clock with engine No. 1408, Engineer Edwards, Fireman Duran, Brakemen Owen and Todd,
and my name is Schu,” he hurriedly said as he left the car and enters the telegraph office. In a short time Conductor Schu comes out of the office with train orders and our train is soon on its way again.
At 10.30 A. M. Eastern (7.30 Pacific) we reach Oakland (Sixteenth Street), where we lay for an hour and a half. It is a tedious wait. We cannot leave the train, for we do not know at what minute it might conclude to go, and none of us want to get left. We stroll around, first on one side of the train and then on the other, keeping one eye on it for fear it will get away from us and careful not to get too far out of its reach. We can see that Oakland is a large and beautiful city, and learn that it has a population of 60,000 inhabitants; a place where flowers bloom on the lawns, fruits mature in the orchards, vegetables grow in the gardens, and grains are harvested in the fields each and every month in the year. It has mountain scenery back of it and an ocean view in front of it; another blooming paradise where desolating storms are unknown and frosts and snows are never seen.
Finding our train about to move we all get aboard and in a few minutes are landed at Oakland Pier, where we wait half an hour for a boat to convey us eight miles across the bay to San Francisco. We employ the time in looking about the large, commodious waiting room that overlooks the harbor. We can’t help noticing that this apartment contains something that is never seen in a station waiting room on the Pennsylvania Railroad system. A profusion of advertisements of all kinds literally cover the walls, and occupying a space in the centre of the floor is a large glass case containing a pyramid of bottles filled with liquors of various kinds and brands, advertising the goods of a whiskey firm down on Front Street. It is needless to say that there is a railing around the exhibit and the door of the case is locked. One of the ticket collectors, an active old gentleman, quick in his movements as a boy, informs us that he has been in his present position for nineteen years; and although seventy years old, the climate is so healthy he feels that he is growing younger every day.
It is announced that the boat is now ready, and we “walk the plank” leading to the deck of the “Oakland,” which is soon plowing a furrow in the waters of the bay as she heads for the “Queen City” of the Pacific. It is not such a boat ride as one can term “lovely”; it is not even agreeable. A chilly gale sweeps the deck that almost lifts you off your feet. “Golly, it’s worse than a trip from Camden to Philadelphia in December,” exclaims Brother Goff, as he turns up the collar of his coat. “Or one from Jersey City to New York in February,” adds Brother McKernan, seeking refuge behind a post. The most of us retire to the more comfortable quarters of the cabin, where we find enjoyment in viewing from the windows the immense bay and harbor, where are anchored hundreds of vessels of all kinds and sizes. As the “Oakland” pokes her nose against the San Francisco dock I look at my watch; it is 9.55 A. M., Pacific time. We have just been twenty minutes coming across. A speed of a mile in two and a half minutes is a pretty lively gait for a ferryboat, but we are told the “Oakland” does it every trip. Under the escort of Brother Perkins, we are loaded into cable cars and start on our way to Sutro Garden and Golden Gate Park.
I believe there’s hardly three squares of a level street in the whole city of San Francisco. Such hills as we go up and such hills as we go down we never saw in any city before. “Why, this is ten times worse than Baltimore, and it’s bad enough, dear knows,” exclaims Mrs. Kalkman as she catches Brother Cohee around the neck to save herself from falling off the seat as the car shoots up an unusually steep acclivity. “Here, here, don’t be so affectionate; Brother Kalkman and Mrs. Cohee are looking at you,” warns Brother Cohee. “As if I’d hug you on purpose,” she retorts, giving him a look of scorn. In many streets a horse and wagon has never been seen; it would be impossible for a horse to draw a wagon up those abrupt granite-paved hills. With the cable car almost on end, we are descending one of those “shoot the chute” like declivities extending for about three blocks, when I overhear a passenger, evidently a resident of the neighborhood, say to Mrs. Shaw, who has “struck up” a conversation with her, “We had a fire here in our neighborhood a short time ago, and a driver of one of the fire engines tried to bring it down this hill, when one of the horses fell down and the engine ran over it and killed it, and it broke the engine all up and hurt the man; it was just awful.” The car stops at the next corner and the woman gets off; glancing back at the hill we have just descended her closing words, “just awful,” strike me as being very appropriate.
A few squares further and we abandon the cable cars and take a little steam road called the “Ferries and Cliff” Railroad that carries us to Sutro Park and bathing pavilion, owned by Adolph Sutro, a retired millionaire merchant of San Francisco, and to the celebrated Cliff House, near which are the far-famed Seal Rocks. We wandered for a time through the beautifully laid out statuary, shrubbery, and flower-adorned grounds of Sutro, then to the great pavilion, that not only contains a large museum of interesting relics and curiosities, but it is here that the noted Sutro baths are located, said to be the finest equipped artificial bathing pools in the world.
We cannot stand the temptation, and soon many of us are robed in bathing suits and are diving, plunging, rolling, and splashing in the salt waters of the Pacific, brought here and warmed to the proper temperature, permitting bathing to be indulged in the entire year. It is needless to say that we have lots of sport, and those who decline to indulge will regret it. There are several strangers in the pool, and Brother Sheppard has taken quite a fancy to one young fellow, whom he is trying to learn to swim and dive. In an adjoining pool is rather a forlorn-looking duck; it must be tame, for it is quietly swimming around undisturbed by the noise we make. “I think it’s hungry,” says Brother McCarty, “I wish I had some crumbs.” The creature must have heard him, for we imagine it gave him a grateful look.
From the baths we go to the Cliff House, and from the windows of the inclosed balcony, that almost overhangs the waves that dash and roar on the rocks beneath, we watch with interest the monster seals that by the hundreds climb and crawl and slip and slide over the crags that rise from the bay, while we regale ourselves with pork and beans and coffee. There is a strong, chilly wind blowing, and we do not tarry long on the bluff outside that overlooks the bay and seals.
It is twenty minutes past two as we get aboard a train on the Park and Ocean Railroad that will convey us to Golden Gate Park. We do not find this world-famed park very different in appearance from other parks we have seen. It is all nice—very nice; beautiful trees and plants and shrubbery, velvety green grass and bright blooming flowers, fine fountains and lakes of shimmering water. All this we see and enjoy, but we have seen the like before, time and time again. Some are bold enough to so express themselves, and it catches Brother Perkins’ ear, who good-naturedly says, “My dear friends, there is but one Golden Gate Park in all the world. There are 1040 acres here of as fine a park as there is anywhere under the sun, and when we consider that 25 years ago this was all a barren tract of drifting sand hills, that everything you see growing has been planted and is kept alive and green and blooming by a regular and almost constant application of water, when you remember this, then you will feel and think that this park is a little different from any other that you have seen.”
We had already commenced to think it was. Amongst groves of trees are great inclosures containing native buffalo, elk, and deer, with so much room to roam that they hardly feel the restraint of captivity. We enter the immense aviaries, where many varieties of birds and squirrels flit and chirp and scamper and chatter with all the freedom and unconcern of an unlimited out-door life. As we leave this great cage with its sprightly, vociferous occupants I hear Brother Reilly say, “McCarty has got a ‘mash.’ ” I don’t quite know what it is that Brother McCarty has got, but suppose it is some escaped animal or bird he has captured. I turn and look, to find him surrounded by ladies of our party, who seem to be trying to protect him from impending harm. Looking closer, I see disappearing among the shrubbery McCarty’s “mash,” the cause of all the trouble, and it is only the poor bedraggled duck of Sutro’s bath that Brother McCarty had thought looked hungry, and our ladies had scared it off. Brother Reagan would have recaptured it but for Miss Ella’s restraining hand, and the curiosity is lost.
We are all pretty tired when at last the street cars are boarded and we are on our way to the ferry. Some are going to return to our train, which lies in Oakland, and some will remain in this city. Mrs. S. and myself called on Mrs. David Chambers, who, with her son and daughter, Willie and Effie, live on Mission Street. Years ago Mrs. Chambers and her family were neighbors to us in West Chester, Pa. Willie, when but a lad, was advised to try the climate of the Pacific coast for his health. He found both health and lucrative employment. Ten years ago he sent East for his mother and sister. We find them to-day enjoying excellent health and nicely and comfortably fixed. We are given a warm, cordial welcome and persuaded to spend the night with them.
In the evening after dinner Willie took me out to see the town. The ladies declined to go, preferring to remain indoors and talk over old times. Met Leslie Collom, a young gentleman friend of the Chambers’, but he having other engagements could not go. Willie knows the town and I follow where he leads. It has long been a desire with me to see San Francisco’s
“Chinatown,” and for three hours we explore its darkness and its mysteries. We do not attempt to go very far up and we don’t try to get very far down—we steer about on a level; but we see enough to convince me that Chinatown is all that it is said to be. You don’t have to ascend into rickety, reeking lofts or descend into gloomy, foul dens to witness their degradation, weakness, and misery; far back in dark, forbidding alleys and bystreets, which make your flesh creep to traverse, you can find them huddled together on benches and shelves, like chickens on a roost, enveloped in disgusting, stupefying smoke.
On our way home we dropped into a private museum and saw one of the rarest and most wonderful pieces of Japanese art in the world, a realistic, life-size statue of a man carved from wood. It is claimed that this work has been examined by learned scientific men, skilled in anatomy and physiology, and not a line or lineament of the skin surface of the human body has been omitted in this delicate, intricate carving. The finger nails are there and all the fine lines that can be traced on the inside of the hand and fingers. There are many lines on the surface of the human body that require the aid of a magnifying glass to discern; with the glass all these lines can be seen carved on this wonderful piece of art. It is midnight when we get home, and, thoroughly tired, we are soon in bed and in the land of dreams.