The Project Gutenberg eBook, The City of the Sultan; and Domestic Manners of the Turks, in 1836, Vol. II (of 2), by Miss (Julia) Pardoe

Note: Images of the original pages are available through Internet Archive. See [ https://archive.org/details/cityofsultanandd02pardiala]
Project Gutenberg has the other volume of this work.
[Volume I]: see http://www.gutenberg.org/files/51878/51878-h/51878-h.htm

The part of List of Illustrations in Vol. I. related to Vol. II. is moved to Vol. II. for completenes and consistency.


Miss Pardoe del.Day & Haghe Lith.rs to the King.
YÈRÈ BATAN SERAÏ
Henry Colburn, 13 G.t Marlborough St 1837.

THE
CITY OF THE SULTAN;

AND

DOMESTIC MANNERS OF THE TURKS,
IN 1836.

BY MISS PARDOE,

AUTHOR OF “TRAITS AND TRADITIONS OF PORTUGAL.”

TOWER OF GALATA.

IN TWO VOLUMES.

VOL. II.

LONDON:
HENRY COLBURN, PUBLISHER,
GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET.
1837.


LONDON:
P. SHOBERL, JUN., LEICESTER STREET, LEICESTER SQUARE.


CONTENTS
OF
THE SECOND VOLUME.


CHAPTER I.

Departure for Broussa—Rocky Coast—Moudania—The Custom House—Translationof the word Backshich—The Archbishop of Broussa—TheBoatman’s House—The Dead and the Living—LaughableCavalcade—Dense Mists—Fine Country—Flowers, Birds, and Butterflies—TheCoffee Hut—The Turkish Woman—Broussa in theDistance—The Dried-up Fountain—Immense Plains—BohemianGipsies—Mountain Streams—Turkish Washerwomen—Fine OldWall—The Jews’ Quarter—The Turkish Kiosk—Oriental Curiosity—ADream of Home

[Page 1]
CHAPTER II.

Ancient Gate—Greek Inscriptions—Mausoleum of Sultan Orcan—MonkishChronicle—The Turbedar Hanoum—Inverted Columns—PaintedPillars—Splendid Marbles—Tombs of the Imperial Family—TheGreek Cross—The Sultan’s Beard—Mausoleum of SultanAli Osman—Monastic Vaults—Ruined Chapel—Remains of a GreekPalace—Bassi Relievi—Ruined Fountains—Ancient Fosse—DenseVegetation—Noble Prospect—Roman Aqueduct—Valley of theSource—Picturesque Groups—Coffee-Kiosks—Absence of Pretensionamong the Turks—The Tale Teller—Traveller’s Khan—SickBirds—Roman Bridge—Armenian Mother

[21]
CHAPTER III.

Orientalism of Broussa—Costume of the Men—Plain Women—Turbansand Yashmacs—Facility of Ingress to the Mosques—Oulou Jamè—PoliteImam—Eastern Quasimodo—Ascent of the Minaret—TheCharshee—Travelling Hyperboles—Silk Bazàr—Silk MerchantsKhan—Fountains of Broussa—Broussa and Lisbon—The Baths—Wild Flowers—Tzekerghè—Mosque of Sultan Mourad—Madhouse—Courtof the Mosque—Singular Fountain—Mausoleum of SultanMourad—Golden Gate—Local Legend—The Tomb-house—MoreVandalism—Ancient Turban—Comfortable Cemeteries—SubterraneanVault—Great Bath—Hot Spring—Baths and Bathers—MiraculousBaths—Armenian Doctress—Situation of Tzekerghè—Storksand Tortoises—Turkish Cheltenham

[38]
CHAPTER IV.

Difficulty of Access to the Chapel of the Howling Dervishes—Invitationto Visit their Harem—The Chapel—Sects and Trades—Entrance ofthe Dervishes—Costume—The Prayer—Turning Dervishes—FanaticalSuffering—Groans and Howls—Difficulty of Description—SectarianCeremony—Music versus Madness—Tekiè of the TurningDervishes

[60]
CHAPTER V.

Loquacious Barber—Unthrifty Travellers—Mount Olympus—EarlyRising—Aspect of the Country at Dawn—Peasants and Travellers—FineView—Peculiarity of Oriental Cities—Stunted Minarets—Plainsand Precipices—Halting-Place—Difficulty of Ascending theMountain—Change of Scenery—Repast in the Desart—Civil Guide—Appearanceof the Mount—Snows and Sunshine—Fatiguing Pilgrimage—DenseMists—Intense Cold—Flitting Landscape—TheChibouk—The Giant’s Grave—The Roofless Hut—Lake of Appollonia—TheWilderness—Dangerous Descent—Philosophic Guide—Stormamong the Mountains—The Guide at Fault—Happy Discovery—Tempest

[72]
CHAPTER VI.

The Armenian Quarter of Broussa—Catholics and Schismatics—ArmenianChurch—Ugly Saints—Burial Place of the Bishops—Cloisters—PublicSchool—Mode of Rearing the Silk Worms—Differencebetween the European and the Asiatic Systems—Colour and Quantityof the Produce—Appearance of the Mulberry Woods

[90]
CHAPTER VII.

The Cadi’s Wife—Singular Custom—Haïsè Hanoum—The Odalique—TheCadi—Noisy Enjoyment—Lying in State—Cachemires—Costume—UnboundedHospitality of the Wealthy Turks—The DancingGirl—Saïryn Hanoum—Contrast

[96]
CHAPTER VIII.

Tzèkerghè—Bustling Departure—Turkish Patois—Waiting Maids andServing Men—Characteristic Cavalcade—Chapter of Accidents—Trainof Camels—Halt of the Caravan—Violent Storm—Archbishopof Broussa—The Old Palace—Reception-Room—Priestly Humility—GreekPriests—Worldly and Monastic Clergy—Morals of the Papas—AsiaticPebbles—Moudania—Idleness of the Inhabitants—Decayof the Town—Policy of the Turkish Government—Departure forConstantinople

[106]
CHAPTER IX.

Death in the Revel—Marriage of the Princess Mihirmàh—The ImperialVictim—The First Lover—Court Cabal—Policy of the Seraskier—TheSecond Suitor—The Miniature—The Last Gift—Interviewbetween the Sultan and Mustapha Pasha

[118]
CHAPTER X.

Yenekeui—The Festival of Fire—Commemorative Observance—Fondnessof the Orientals for Illumination—Frequency of Fires in Constantinople—DangerousCustoms—Fire Guard—The Seraskier’sTower—Disagreeable Alarum—Namik Pasha—The Festival Localized—Veronica—Bonfires—Therapiaand Buyukdèrè—SingularEffect of Light—The Armenian Heroine—A Wild Dream

[134]
CHAPTER XI.

A Chapter on Caïques—The Sultan’s Barge—Princes and Pashas—ThePasha’s Wife—The Admiralty Barge—The Fruit Caïque—TheEmbassy Barge—The Omnibus Caïque—Turkish Boatmen—TheCaïque of Azmè Bey—Pleasant Memories—The Chevalier Hassunade Ghies—Natural Politeness of the Turks—Turkey and Russia—SultanMahmoud—Confusion of Tongues—Arif Bey—Imperial Present—TheFruit of Constantinople—The Two Banners—The Harem—AzimèHanoum

[143]
CHAPTER XII.

The Bosphorus in Summer—The Tower of Galata—Mosque of Topphannè—SummerPalace of the Grand Vizier—Seraï of the PrincessSalihè—Seraïs and Salemliks—Palace of Azmè Sultane—TurkishMusic—Token Flowers—Palace of the Princess Mihirmàh—TheHill of the Thousand Nightingales—Turkish, Greek, and ArmenianHouses—Cleanliness of the Orientals—The Armenians—Cemeteryof Isari—The Castle of Europe—Mahomet and the Greeks—Villageof Mirgheun—The Haunted Chapel of St. Nicholas—Palace of PrinceCalimachi—Imperial Jealousy—Death of Calimachi—The Bosphorusby Moonlight—Love of the Orientals for Flowers—Depth of theChannel—An Imperial Brig—Turkish Justice—Fortunes of theTurkish Fleet—Sudden Transitions—Influence of Russian Sophistry—TheSultan’s Physicians—Naval Appointments—Rigid Discipline—ThePenalty of Disobedience—The Death Banquet—Tahir Pasha—RadicalRemedy—Vice of the Turkish System of Government—UnkiarSkelessi—A Mill and a Manufactory—Pic Nics—ArabianEncampment—Bedouin Beauty—Poetical Locality

[158]
CHAPTER XIII.

Facts and Fictions—Female Execution at Constantinople—Crime ofthe Condemned—Tale of the Merchant’s Wife—The Call to Prayer—TheDiscovery—The Mother and Son—The Hiding-Place—TheCapture—The Trial—A Night Scene in the Harem—The Morrow—Mercifulnessof the Turks towards their Women

[183]
CHAPTER XIV.

Political Position of the Turks—Religion of the Osmanlis—Absence ofVice among the Lower Orders—Defect of Turkish Character—EuropeanSupineness—Policy of Russia—England and France—A TurkishComment on England—The Government and the People—CommonVirtue—Great Men—Turks of the Provinces—European Misconceptions

[198]
CHAPTER XV.

Death in a Princely Harem—The Fair Georgian—Distinction of Circassianand Georgian Beauty—The Saloon—Sentiment of theHarem—Courteous Reception—Domestic Economy of the Establishment—TheYoung Circassian—Emin Bey—Singular Custom of theTurks—The Buyuk Hanoum—The Female Dwarf—Naïveté of theTurkish Ladies—The Forbidden Door—The Sultan’s Chamber—TheFemale Renegade—Penalty of Apostacy—Musical Ceremony—FrankLadies and True Believers—A Turkish Luncheon—DevlehäiHanoum—Old Wives versus Young Ones—The Parting Gift—TheAraba—The Public Walk—Fondness of the Orientals for FineScenery—The Oak Wood

[211]
CHAPTER XVI.

Military Festival—Turkish Ladies—Female Curiosity—Eastern Coquetry—AFew Words on the Turkish Fèz—The Imperial Horse Guards—Disaffectionof the Imperial Guard—False Alarms—TheProcession—The Troops at Pera—Imitative Talent of the Turks—Disappointment

[231]
CHAPTER XVII.

Turkish Ladies “At Home”—The Asiatic Sweet Waters—HolyGround—The Glen of the Valley—Hand Mirrors—Holyday Groups—Courtesyof the Oriental Females to Strangers—The BeautifulDevotee—The Pasha’s Wife—A Guard of Honour—Change of Scene—Fortressof Mahomet—Amiability of the Turkish Character

[242]
CHAPTER XVIII.

The Reiss Effendi—Devlehäi Hanoum—The Fair Circassian—ThePasha—Ceremonious Observances of the Harem—An Interview—NamikPasha versus Nourri Effendi—Imperial Decorations—TheDiploma—Turkish Gallantry—The Chibouks—The Salemliek—TheGarden—Holy Horror—The Kiosk—The Breakfast—A Party in theHarem—Nèsibè Hanoum—The Yashmac—The Masquerade—TurkishCompliments—The Slave and the Fruit Merchant—Departurefrom the Palace

[262]
CHAPTER XIX.

Imperial Gratitude—The Freed Woman—A Female Cœlebs—Husseinthe Watchmaker—Golden Dreams—Arabas and Arabajhes—MaternalRegrets—A Matrimonial Excursion—Difficult Position—TheSèkèljhes—A Young Husband—The Emir—The Officer of theGuard—The Emir’s Daughter—First Love—Ballad Singing—ASalutation—Moonlight—Rejected Addresses—Ruse de Guerre—TheArrest—A Lover’s Defence—Munificence of the SeraskierPasha

[278]
CHAPTER XX.

Turkish Madhouses—Surveillance of Sultan Mahmoud—Self-ElectedSaints—Lunatic Establishment of Solimaniè—The Mad Father—TheApostate—The Sultan’s Juggler—Slave Market—Charshee

[293]
CHAPTER XXI.

The Castle of Europe—The Traitor’s Gate—The Officer of the Guard—MilitaryScruples—The State Prison—The Tower of Blood—TheJanissaries’ Tower—Cachots Forcès—Guard-room—The Bow-string—FrightfulDeath—The Signal Gun—The Grand Armoury—FlourishingState of the Establishment—A Dialogue—The Barracksof the Imperial Guard—The Persian Kiosk—Courts and Cloisters—TheKitchen—The Regimental School—A Coming Storm—The Tempest—DangerousPassage—Turkish Terror—Kind-heartedCaïquejhe—Fortunate Escape

[302]
CHAPTER XXII.

The Plague—Spread of the Pestilence—The Greek Victim—Self-Devotion—Deathof the Plague Smitten—The Widow’s Walk—PlagueEncampments—The Infected Family—The Greek Girl and herLover—Non-Conductors—Plague Perpetuators—Vultures—MelancholyConcomitants of the Pestilence—Carelessness of the Turks—ThePasha of Broussa—Rashness of the Poorer Classes—Universalityof the Disease in the Capital

[317]
CHAPTER XXIII.

A Greek Marriage—The Day before the Bridal—The Wedding Garments—Cachemires—Ceremonyof Reception—The Golden Tresses—EarlyHours of the Greek Church—Love of the Greek Womenfor Finery—The Bridal Procession—The Marriage—The NuptialCrowns—Greek Funerals

[338]
CHAPTER XXIV.

The Fèz Manufactory—Singular Scene—A Turk at Prayers—PrettyGirls—Progress of Turkish Industry—Mustapha Effendi—Processof Manufactures—Omer Effendi and the Arabs—Avanis Aga, theArmenian—The Fraud Discovered—The Imperial Apartments—Departurefor the Seraï-Bournou—The Outer Court—The OrtaKapoussi—The Pestle and Mortar of the Ulémas—The Garden ofDelight—The Column of Theodosius—Arrival of the Sultan—AncientGreek Inscriptions—Confused Impression—The Diamond—Memoriesof Sultan Selim

[348]
CHAPTER XXV.

Social Condition of the Eastern Jews—Parallel between the Jews ofEurope and the Levant—Cruelty of the Turkish Children to Jews—ASingular Custom—Religious Strictness of the Jews—National Administration—TheHouse of Naim Zornana of Galata—Costume ofthe Jewish Women—Hebrew Hospitality

[361]
CHAPTER XXVI.

Hospitality of the Armenians—An Impromptu Visit—The Bride—CostlyCostume—Turkish Taste—Kind Reception—Domestic Etiquetteof the Schismatic Armenians—Armenian Sarafs—The NationalCharacteristics

[373]
CHAPTER XXVII.

Season-Changes at Constantinople—Twilight—The Palace Garden—Mariaritza,the Athenian—A Love-tale by Moonlight—The GreekGirl’s Song—The Palace of Beglierbey—Interior Decorations—TheBath—The Terraces—The Lake of the Swans—The Air Bath—TheEmperor’s Vase—The Gilded Kiosk—A Disappointment

[384]
CHAPTER XXVIII.

The Bosphorus in Mist—The Ferdinando Primo—Embarkation—TardyPassengers—The Black Sea—The Turkish Woman—Varna—Visitto the Pasha—Rustem Bey—Mustapha Najib Pasha—TurkishGallantry—The Lines—Sunset Landscape—Bulgarian Colonies—Discomfortsof a Deck Passage

[402]
CHAPTER XXIX.

The Danube—Cossack Guard—Moldavian Musquitoes—Tultzin—Galatz—Plague-Conductors—PrussianOfficer—Excursion to Silistria—AmateurBoatmen—Wretched Hamlet—The Lame Baron—TheSalute—Silistrian Peasants—A Pic-Nic in the Wilds—TheTortoise—Canoes of the Danube—The Moldavian State-Barge—PicturesqueBoatmen—The Water Party—Painful Politeness—Visitof the Hospodar—Suite of His Highness—Princely Panic—ThePannonia

[414]
CHAPTER XXX.

Hirsova—Russian Relics—Town of Silistria—Bravery of the Turks—Villageof Turtuki—Group of Pelicans—Glorious Sunset—Ruschuk—Cheapnessof Provisions—The Wallachian Coast—Bulgaria—DenseFog—Orava—Roman Bath—Green Frogs—Widdin—Kalifet—ScalaGlavoda—Custom House Officers—Disembarkation—WallachianMountains—A Landscape Sketch—Costume of the ServianPeasantry—The Village Belle—Primitive Carriages—The Porte deFer—The Crucifix—Magnificent Scenery—Fine Ores

[427]
CHAPTER XXXI.

Orsova—Castle of the Pass—Turkish Guard—Quarantaine Ground—Villageof Tekia—Awkward Mistake—Pretty Woman—Gay Dress—AVisiter—Servian Cottagers—A Discovery—Departure—AVolunteer—Receiving House—A Forced March—The Grave-Yard—TheQuarantaine—A Welcome to Captivity—A Verbal Coinage—PleasantQuarters—M. le Directeur—The Restaurant—PleasantAnnouncement—Paternal Care of the Austrian Authorities—TheHealth-Inventory—The Guardsman’s Sword—Medical Visits—IntellectualAmusements—A Friendly Warning

[443]
CHAPTER XXXII.

The Last Day of Captivity—Quarantaine Enclosure—Baths of Mahadia—LandscapeScenery—Peasantry of Hungary—Their Costume—Trajan’sRoad—Hungarian Village—The Mountain Pass—TheBaths—A Disappointment—The Health-Inventory—Inland Journey—NewRoad

[458]
CHAPTER XXXIII.

Departure from Orsova—Daybreak—The Mountain-pass—Village ofPlauwischewitza—Austrian Engineers—Literary Popularity—TheRapids—Sunday in Hungary—Drinkova—Holy day Groups—Alibec—Voilovitch—Panchova—River-Shoals—WildFowl—Semlin—Fortressof Belgrade—Streets of Semlin—Greek Church—Castle ofHunyady—Imperial Barge—Agreeable Escort—Yusuf Pacha—Belgrade—PrinceMilosch—Plague-Preventers—General Milosch—ServianLadies—Turk-Town—Ruined Dwellings—The Fortress—OsmanBey—Gate of the Tower—Fearless Tower—Rapid Decay ofthe Fortifications—Sclavonian Garden—Vintage-Feast—SclavonianVintage-Song

[471]
CHAPTER XXXIV.

Carlowitz—Peterwarradin—Bridge of Boats—Neusatz—The Journeyof Life—The Chevalier Peitrich—Austrian Officers—The HungarianPoet—Illok—The Ancient Surnium—Peel Tower—Intense Cold—FlatShores—Mohasch—Földvar—Pesth—German Postillion—AFew Last Words

[492]