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ANNOUNCEMENTS.
ESTABLISHED 1850.
Inman Line.
UNITED STATES AND ROYAL MAIL STEAMERS
| CITY OF PARIS, | 10,500 | Tons. |
| CITY OF NEW YORK, | 10,500 | “ |
| CITY OF BERLIN, | 5,491 | Tons. |
| CITY OF CHICAGO, | 6,000 | “ |
| CITY OF CHESTER, | 4,770 | Tons. |
New York, Queenstown AND Liverpool.
FIRST CABIN PASSAGE from $60 to $650,
According to Steamer and Location of Accommodations.
Note.—Round Trip Tickets issued at reduced rates, and the return portion can, if desired, be used by RED STAR LINE from Antwerp to New York or Philadelphia.
International Navigation Co.,
General Agents,
6 BOWLING GREEN, NEW YORK.
ANNOUNCEMENTS.
SIMPSON’S
(LIMITED)
Divan Tavern,
103 STRAND,
Opposite Exeter Hall,—LONDON.
The premier Restaurant in the Strand, established upwards of fifty years, which still retains its supremacy for being the house to get the best English Dinner in London at a moderate price. There is also a magnificent Ladies’ Dining Room where ladies can dine in the same style and cost as gentlemen do in the room down stairs. Private rooms for large or small parties.
Noted for Soups, Fish, Entrees and Joints. Saddles of Mutton specially cooked to perfection from 12.30 to 8.30 p.m. Originator of professed Carvers to attend on each customer at separate tables. Matured wines and spirits. The largest stock of any tavern in the kingdom.
E. W. CATHIE, Managing Director.
ANNOUNCEMENTS.
LONDON & NORTH WESTERN RAILWAY
THE OLD ROUTE IN THE OLD COUNTRY. THE TOURISTS’ FAVORITE.
IRISH AND SCOTCH ROYAL MAIL ROUTE.
SHORTEST AND QUICKEST FROM
LIVERPOOL (Lime Street Station) to LONDON (Euston Station). under FOUR AND A-HALF HOURS to GLASGOW (Central Station), in FIVE AND THREE-QUARTER HOURS.
QUEENSTOWN to LONDON via Dublin and Holyhead, in SIXTEEN HOURS AND TEN MINUTES.
Baggage Checked Through from New York to London.
At LIVERPOOL, Family Omnibuses from Landing Stage, and Special Trains from Alexandra Dock to Lime Street Station and Hotel.
NORTH WESTERN HOTEL, Lime Street Station, Liverpool, the best and largest—the hotel for Americans.
SPECIAL TRAINS from Liverpool to London when requisite to make close connection with steamers arriving from America.
Elegant Vestibule Drawing-Room Cars without extra charge. Compartments with lavatories, and private saloon and family carriages for parties without extra charge.
Sleeping Cars with Compartments and brass Beds, 5s. per berth in addition to first-class fares.
DINING CARS on principal trains and “American Specials.”
Luncheon Baskets at the principal Stations.
In LONDON, Family Omnibuses can be obtained, at the Euston Hotel (at the Station), noted for its Cellar and its French Cuisine, will be found most comfortable.
THE LONDON AND NORTH WESTERN RAILWAY has NOT abolished Second Class Carriages; passengers to whom economy is an object, but who do not wish to travel Third Class, can combine comfort with economy by traveling Second Class by this line. First and Second Class on all trains. Third Class Carriages on all trains except the Irish Mails to and from Dublin.
The Company’s Agents, Mr. W. STIRLING, at Queenstown, and Mr. FRED. W. THOMPSON, at Liverpool, meet the American Steamers on arrival, and secure omnibuses, seats, saloon carriages, rooms at hotel, and give general information.
THROUGH TICKETS to London, Glasgow, Paris, and principal stations in England, Scotland, Ireland, Wales, and Continent of Europe.
TICKETS, Time Tables and information as to travel and hotels can be obtained from the Company’s Agent, Mr. D. BATTERSBY, 184 St. James St., Montreal, and
Mr. C. A. BARATTONI, Gen’l Agent for the U. S. and Canada, 852 Broadway, near Union Square, New York.
| G. P. NEELE, Superintendent of the Line. London, Euston Station. | E. MICHEL, Foreign Traffic Superintendent. G. FINDLAY, Gen’l Manager. |
ANNOUNCEMENTS.
HOTEL WINDSOR,
VICTORIA STREET,
Westminster, LONDON, S.W.
Convenient and central location; European or American system; the only hotel in London with Turkish and other baths; elevators; electrically lighted throughout, day and night.
J. R. CLEAVE & CO., Proprietors.
ABROAD AND AT HOME
PRACTICAL HINTS FOR TOURISTS
BY
MORRIS PHILLIPS
EDITOR OF
THE HOME JOURNAL
NEW YORK
NEW YORK
BRENTANO’S
Paris Washington Chicago London
Copyright 1891,
BY
MORRIS PHILLIPS
THE ART PRESS,
DEMPSEY & CARROLL,
36 EAST 14TH STREET,
NEW YORK.
TO THE MEMORY OF
GEORGE W. HOWS,
MY FAITHFUL FELLOW-WORKER AND DEAR FRIEND OF
MANY YEARS, THIS VOLUME OF SKETCHES IS
AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBED.
“Travel is the great
source of true wisdom.”
—Beaconsfield.
CONTENTS.
| PAGE | |
| Preface, by the Hon. A. Oakey Hall, | [5] |
| GREAT BRITAIN. | |
|---|---|
| London on Wheels, | [9] |
| London Hotels, | [24] |
| A Few Boarding Houses, | [47] |
| Where to Lunch in London, and Where Not to Lunch, | [49] |
| Railway Travelling in England, | [59] |
| An Hour with Spurgeon, | [67] |
| The Crypt of St. Paul’s, | [71] |
| The Queen’s Mews, | [74] |
| A Question of Hats, | [77] |
| London Oddities, | [79] |
| Poverty and Charity in England, | [85] |
| Where is Charing Cross? | [88] |
| Margate, | [89] |
| Two Brighton Hotels, | [97] |
| A Visit to Bleak House, | [100] |
| Takin’ Notes in Edinboro’ Town, | [105] |
| The Burns Monument, | [112] |
| Rt. Rev. the Moderator, James MacGregor, D.D., | [116] |
| Crossing the Channel, | [123] |
| PARIS. | |
| Paris Hotels, | [124] |
| Pensions of the First Class, | [134] |
| The Restaurants of Paris, | [137] |
| The Anglo-American Banking Co., | [146] |
| Au Bon Marché, | [147] |
| THE UNITED STATES. | |
| Georgia— | |
| The De Soto, Savannah, | [149] |
| Thomasville, | [155] |
| A New Southern Resort, | [165] |
| Florida— | |
| A Cuban City (Key West), | [171] |
| St. Augustine, | [180] |
| About Tampa, | [185] |
| California— | |
| Monterey, | [190] |
| San Diego and Coronado, | [199] |
| Santa Cruz, | [213] |
| Redondo Beach, | [221] |
| Pasadena, | [225] |
| Los Angeles, | [231] |
| The California Hotel, San Francisco, | [235] |
| Salt Lake City, | [239] |
| The Auditorium Hotel, Chicago, | [243] |
| Max O’Rell on American Hotels, | [249] |
PREFACE.
A continuous residence in London of eight years has satisfied me that precisely such a book, so far as it relates to that city, which my friend and once junior legal associate now presents is popularly needed.
That in such respect it will be vitally interesting, even to readers who have never been tourists thither, “goes without saying.” Moreover, there are in these pages views, comments and sights of the “abroad” and “at home” additionally valuable; therefore I gladly accept his invitation to prepare a short preface to this volume of an American M. P. in the Parliament of Letters.
He first broached his idea of papers about London at a capital luncheon, when meeting together there we discussed with palates, forks and wine glasses a tempting menu during the summer of 1890, as guests of Host Vogel, of the new Albermarle Hotel in Piccadilly, at the top of the historic St. James’s street.
We then and there drank success to the M. P. idea, and I doubt not, that every reader of this volume will be disposed to heartily duplicate that toast at his first dinner which shall follow its perusal.
When a tourist first arrives in London, beneath the inviting shadow of the Northwestern Railway station hotel, that is flanked by two smaller inns and its centre pierced by several taverns, or direct from Southampton at the Waterloo station, within rifle shot of which a score of hotels invite his luggage and his wearied frame, that tourist’s earliest question will be, which hospitable caravanserai shall I patronize?
His second question will concern his vehicular desires for transportation by cab, ’bus or railway. Other queries will suggest themselves regarding the “How,” the “Where,” the “Which” and the “Why” of his new London surroundings.
With this volume on shipboard en route: or in railway carriage in transitu, the tourist will already possess answers in his mind to those queries or similar ones respecting Edinburgh or Glasgow; and will not be at the mercy of chance or of confusing porters, or of contestant “cabbies,” or of the shady sharpers who throng railway platforms.
Once well housed in any of the places herein mentioned, and once understanding, by the aid of the ensuing pages, how to get about in the vast metropolis—wherein one may ride sixteen miles from extreme north to a suburban south, and fourteen miles from west to east without quitting paved and lighted streets, or the continuity of habitations—a traveler’s eyes and ears will be all the Mentors he will require.
Of so-called guide books (of which class this is not), there are in London and elsewhere abroad confusing scores, but the average tourist ought to shun guide-books as he would a Bradshaw, unless he loves charades, puzzles and conundrums.
Every mother knows that when her infant obtains his footing, the child will walk confidently. This volume serves to give the person who arrives in London or Edinburgh and kindred cities an instant footing. In the parlance of the race course, it is the “starter.”
On arrival, the first thing to do is to demand and learn the points of compass; because all enquiries about the “Where” in London hinge on those.
The papers by M. P. about cabs and omnibuses will be found as valuable as they are piquant. He tells of certain trips (and tips) on top of a ’bus; he vividly describes how the best way for exploring London is to ride in its every direction on the tops of omnibuses—devoting days to the task, or rather pleasure—and when, as street after street is passed, reading their names, which are always sign-affixed to the turn—a convenience even for residents which, in late years, is strangely unknown in New York City. Thereby locality and prominent buildings and often-referred-to neighborhoods become fixed in an observer’s mind for future uses of memory.
I learned to know London “like a book”—as common phrase goes: and, I therefore fully appreciate how much this book will serve to teach new tourists how to begin to learn London; how much it will revive pleasant memories in former tourists; how greatly it will instruct intending tourists; how pleasantly it will amuse those who may not expect to practically patronize the hotels; how well it will instruct as to London’s vehicles and the wonders of the English city, which is practically seventeen centuries older than New York.
But there are other sides and hues to this prismatic volume. Not only is it inviting to Americans who wish to know about the “across-the-ocean-ferry,” but it will be attractive to the countrymen of the M. P. who may travel or who would like to travel Westward, “where the star of Empire takes its way.” And also to the foreign tourist who may for only one week reside, in transitu to the States, upon the floating greyhoundish hotels which we call steamships.
Marvelous as London is to the American tourist, the wonders, the hotels, the coasts, and the traveling—especially toward the Pacific ocean—are equally marvelous to English M. P.’s and foreign ladies and gentlemen of fortune or leisure who seek transcontinental scenes and comforts.
Merely “turning the leaves,” a phrase happily used as a heading for book notices by the author of “Kissing the Rod” in his World newspaper of London, will at once show any buyer of this volume what I have implied.
A. OAKEY HALL.
Lotos Club, January 21, 1892.