THE ART OF DRESSING THE COLLAR
In ties, cravats, and scarfs we have two colors—these are the principals. They are black, and white. With these, combined or separate, the most elegant scarfs are made. They may be figured or flowered, or solid colors. The materials used are silks, crêpes, satins and lawn.
The patterns—with black or white as a background—are innumerable.
Use all the taste you can command in selecting ties.
Remember that black is your principal body-coat color, and select your ties accordingly. At the same time you must not have the color or pattern of the tie at war with that of the waistcoat or trousers.
Never wear those flaming ties, or shades that remind you of the colored paper sold in shops.
But a gentleman need not be cautioned in this, for he has or will acquire taste.
Besides black or white it is permissible to wear such shades of maroon, green, blue, violet, as are of a rich but quiet style. These are only worn with morning wear.
For Morning Wear.—Cravats, four-in-hands, and puff scarfs. All self-tying. These may be black, white, or any of the before-mentioned shades. In silks and black satin. Gold pins are worn in the scarfs. It is the acme of ugliness to wear pins in a four-in-hand, besides being vulgar. The four-in-hand may be tied in the regulation style or in the form of a bow.
Never wear a made-up bow, scarf, or four-in-hand. They look cheap, and they are vulgarly common.
Then there is the bow or cravat, tied in the regular bow-knot.
Black is the richest and most elegant color for morning wear.
The same styles are worn in summer as in winter. In summer much of the bosom is allowed to show; while in winter it seldom or never shows, excepting evening dress. Wherever and whenever morning wear is used, any of these ties may be worn.
For riding, driving, traveling, yachting, and lounging, the ties for morning wear may be worn.
Very elegant, large cravats—tied in a bow-knot, or as a four-in-hand—are made from De Joinvilles; either in black satins or black silks, or dark shades of silk.
The De Joinville is folded by yourself or your furnisher. It may be sewed or not. This De Joinville cravat is for morning wear only. Always have your ties, cravats, and scarfs made to order. This is the only way to keep them uncommon.
Afternoon Dress.—Here is the chance for the greatest amount of display. Diamond pins, and large, white, puff scarfs tied and pinned in shape by yourself, are worn with the cutaway body-coat or the frock body-coat.
In winter the large puff scarf only is worn with afternoon dress.
In summer, four-in-hands—either in bow or regular tie—as well as the puff scarfs are worn. With a sash—a bow tied or a four-in-hand tied, its ends placed in the opening of the bosom, is worn. A scarf may be worn with a sash when the body-coat is not worn open.
Waistcoats should be four buttons, and body-coats cut low in collars in order to show the beauties of the huge puff scarf now worn.
Silk is the material for the white scarf.
Satin is only allowable in black and dark shades for scarfs.
Exquisite silk or crêpe puff scarfs consisting of white background with figures or flowers of a violet, blue, purple, maroon, etc., as your taste directs, are worn.
Remember, simplicity for morning wear—elegance for afternoon dress.
For house wear the black silk or satin four-in-hand is the neatest tie worn.
The Ascot form of tying a scarf is seldom used now.
Evening Dress.—Full evening dress requires the white lawn cravat—self-tying.
Long and wide is the most elegant.
Once or twice around may be worn. For wear with Tuxedo or Cowes body-coat, or the dress body-coat at informal affairs, theater, club, or home dinners, the black satin cravat—self-tying—is the proper thing. It may be once or twice around as you like. Never wear this cravat with a white waistcoat or white sash.
