AN ENGLISHWOMAN IN THE PHILIPPINES
First Edition July 1906
Reprinted October 1906
AN ENGLISHWOMAN
IN THE
PHILIPPINES
BY MRS CAMPBELL DAUNCEY
WITH ILLUSTRATIONS AND A MAP
NEW YORK
E. P. DUTTON AND COMPANY
1906
Printed in Great Britain
INTRODUCTION
In the following letters, written during a stay of nine months in the Philippine Islands, I tried to convey to those at home a faithful impression of the country I was in and the people I met. Since I came home I have been advised to collect and prepare certain of my letters for publication, and this I have done to the best of my ability, though with considerable misgivings as to the fate of such a humble little volume.
It is impossible to mention the Philippine Islands, either in daily life in the country itself, or in describing such life, without reference to the political situations which form the topic of most conversations in that uneasy land. On this subject also I wrote to the best of my power, faithfully and impartially; for I hold no brief for the Americans or the Filipinos. I merely aimed at a plain account of those scenes and conversations, generally written within a few hours of my observing them, which, it seemed to me, would best convey a true and unbiassed impression of what I saw of the Philippines as they are.
CONTENTS
| PAGE | |
| LETTER I. MANILA | |
| Journey from Hong Kong. First sight of the Philippine coast. Manila Bay. The Pasig River. A drive through the streets. Old Manila. Spanish influences. Manila hotels. The Virgin of Antipolo. Inter-island steamers. | [1] |
| LETTER II. FROM MANILA TO ILOILO | |
| Beautiful islands. Coin divers. A glimpse of Cebú. The hemp industry. The Island of Mactan. Magellan. A curious record in orthography. Fellow-passengers. Soldiers and school-teachers. American theories. Social and racial equality. The Filipino race. | [8] |
| LETTER III. FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF ILOILO | |
| Arrival at Iloilo. Situation of Guimaras and Negros. The Island of Panay. Climate. House-hunting. Native methods. Conant coinage. Philippine houses. | [15] |
| LETTER IV. A PHILIPPINE HOUSE—AMERICAN PRICES—NATIVE SERVANTS—FURNITURE | |
| We find a house. Domestic architecture. The Azotea. Results of American extravagance. Iloilo shops. Filipino servants. Settling down. Chinese shops. Furniture. “Philippines for the Filipinos.” Rumours of the Custom House. | [22] |
| LETTER V. HOUSEKEEPING IN ILOILO | |
| Housekeeping. Strange insects. Chinese bread. The washerwoman. Domestic etiquette. A hawker of orchids. | [33] |
| LETTER VI. A WASTED LAND | |
| The road to Molo. Picturesque scenes. Custom House methods. An unpleasant surprise. Philippine trading firms. An over-zealous law. The Philippine bed. Christmas Eve. The tropic dawn. Christmas Day. The water-supply. Food and drink. Scarcity and high prices. Book-learning versus agriculture. | [42] |
| LETTER VII. CUSTOMS AND DRESS OF THE NATIVES | |
| A Filipino Fiesta. The national hero. Doctor Rizal and his work. A languid festival. A musical people. Dress of the native women. Piña muslin. Dress of native men. Scrupulous cleanliness. A walk on the beach. Gorgeous colouring. | [50] |
| LETTER VIII. SOCIAL AMUSEMENTS | |
| A ball at the Spanish Club. The Rigodon. Curious costumes. Bringing in the New Year. A painful interlude. Position of Eurasians. New Year’s Day. The suburbs of Iloilo. Filipino children. | [57] |
| LETTER IX. TARIFFS—INSECTS | |
| More Custom House surprises. Official blunders. House-lizards. Roof-menageries. Anting-anting. Snakes. Cicadas. Ants. Cockroaches. Mosquitoes. | [66] |
| LETTER X. A FILIPINO THEATRE—CARABAOS | |
| Dramatic clubs. The Iloilo theatre. An amusing experience. An operetta. The Jaro road. Carabaos. An evening scene by the river. The fashionable paseo. | [74] |
| LETTER XI. SOME RESULTS OF THE AMERICAN OCCUPATION | |
| Heat and drought. Bathrooms. A handsome cow-boy. Cost of living. Military manners. Camp Josman. The Government of the Philippines. A “pull.” An arbitrary tax. The Plaza Libertad. Effects of fire and bombardment. Story of the American occupation. Unwelcome saviours. A pretty garden. The “unemployed.” Scale of wages. A Philippine cabstand. Filipino dignity. A charming scene. | [82] |
| LETTER XII. CHINESE NEW YEAR—LABOUR CONDITIONS—A CINÉMATOGRAPH SHOW | |
| The Chinese New Year. Question of Chinese labour. A cinématograph entertainment. Unpleasant habits. An interesting audience. Diplomatic warfare. A half “’cute” native. A Filipino philosopher. Tropical rain. | [95] |
| LETTER XIII. SOME INFLUENCES OF CLIMATE, SCENERY, AND RELIGION | |
| The Rainbow. Sugar industry. A beautiful view. Unchanging charms. “Always afternoon.” The fascination of the East. Missionaries. A keen advocate. La Iglesia Filipina Independiente. | [103] |
| LETTER XIV. VOYAGE TO MANILA | |
| A journey to Manila. The mail steamer. Food for Esquimaux. A comfortable night. Dream Islands. Dress for Europeans. Manila. The harbour. Curious reasoning. American hustling. A charming house. The Luneta. | [110] |
| LETTER XV. AN OFFICIAL ENTERTAINMENT | |
| Evening on the Pasig River. Malacañan Palace. An evening fête. The Arms of the Philippines. “The Gubernatorial party.” “Manila at a glance.” The Gibson Girl. An amusing episode. A drive in Manila. The fashions. Manila shops. A market for the best diamonds. A “mixed” wedding. | [120] |
| LETTER XVI. MANILA AND ITS INHABITANTS | |
| The suburbs of Manila. Hawks. A nursery-garden. Orchids. By the bandstand in the evening. Manila society. A city of cards. Intramuros. Americanised Filipinos. The American Ideal. Blind pride. Bilibid prison. Arts and crafts. The “Exposition” and the inquiring voter. The Philippine sky. A steamer on fire. A procession of death and degradation. “Sport.” A visit to Malacañan. A beautiful woman. Some lovely embroideries. Manila prices. Mr Taft and his Chinese servants. | [128] |
| LETTER XVII. DEMOCRACY AND SOCIETY IN MANILA | |
| A Mestizo party. Seeking for democracy. And finding aristocracy. A shopping expedition. Chinese enterprise. Bridge again. A devotee and enthusiast. | [143] |
| LETTER XVIII. THE RETURN VOYAGE AND MY COMPANIONS | |
| Home letters. The Simla of Manila. The return journey to Iloilo. A crowded ship. My cabin-mate. Filipino schoolboys. The first-fruits of the American Ideal. Filipino manners. Some Filipino views. Philippine Spanish. Dawn at the mouth of the Iloilo River. Expensive religion. Wonderful costumes. Lax port authorities. A hearty welcome home. | [151] |
| LETTER XIX. A BAILE—A NEW COOK AND AMERICAN METHODS | |
| Carnival festivities. Lenten relaxations. A Palais Royale farce at the Filipino Club. “Hiawatha.” At a baile. A walk through the town. A Chinese graveyard. A troublesome cook. Wily native ways. A change of staff. Municipal marvels. Noblesse oblige. | [161] |
| LETTER XX. FILIPINO INDOLENCE—A DROUGHT | |
| The rising thermometer. A Filipino watering-cart. A harrowing story. The Filipino employé. Mañana. A demonstration in racial equality. More drought. A new acquisition. | [169] |
| LETTER XXI. THE WHARVES—AN OLD SPANIARD | |
| Roofs of Philippine houses. A walk along the quay. Chinese sailors. A mistaken policy. Native shops. Curious cigars. Desolate mud-flats. One of the results of high wages. A Spanish courtier. Los Indianos. A cause for panic. | [174] |
| LETTER XXII. A TRIP TO GUIMARAS—AN ASTONISHING PROPOSAL—HOUSEBUILDING | |
| A little trip on the sea. Marvellous scenery. The ship of the Ancient Mariner. Coast villages. A band in the Plaza. Oriental tastes. The difference of Eastern and Western minds. Little comedies. How we drive in Iloilo. An importunate visitor. Strange American customs. A peaceful scene in the sunset. Building a house. | [182] |
| LETTER XXIII. A TROPICAL SHOWER—OUR SERVANTS—FILIPINO CUSTOMS | |
| The mails. A good butler. “The inevitable muchacho.” Palm Sunday. Negritos. Curly hair. Beggars. A Filipino funeral. | [191] |
| LETTER XXIV. EASTER FESTIVITIES | |
| Easter holidays. Superfluous precautions. A gruesome procession. The Funeral of Christ. Rival religionists. A midnight pageant. A pretty procession. Happy children. A dull baile. | [195] |
| LETTER XXV. A DAY AT NAGABA | |
| A trip to Nagaba. A native house. The “Philippine cuckoo.” Nipa thatch. Ylang-Ylang. A swimming-bath. A stroll along the rocks. A fisherman’s hut. Country-folk. The village. Pig-scavengers. The fire-tree. The tuba man. Mistaken temperance enthusiasts. Cocoanut-growing. | [202] |
| LETTER XXVI. THE MONSOON—AN ITALIAN OPERA COMPANY | |
| Love-birds. Traces of the Filipino mind. The S.-W. Monsoon. Typhoons. A horrible custom. A wandering Opera Company. Increasing heat. | [210] |
| LETTER XXVII. A WEEK-END AT NAGABA | |
| The departure for Nagaba. An amusing landing. Morning on the beach. A fish corral. Trading vessels. A native kitchen. Betel-nut. A row up the river. Up in the woods. A magnificent prospect. Wild fruits. A primitive hut. The simple life. The American theory of education before food. Wanted a Colonial Office. Harlequins of crab-land. The tropic night. Fishing by torchlight. A parao. Skilful sailorising. Home again. | [215] |
| LETTER XXVIII. A LITTLE EARTHQUAKE, AND AN OPERA COMPANY UNDER DIFFICULTIES | |
| A slight earthquake. Grand opera under difficulties. Barbaric laughter. The exodus to Hong Kong. Vagaries of the Monsoon. | [226] |
| LETTER XXIX. AN EVENING ON THE RIVER—RIVAL BISHOPS | |
| Evening on the Iloilo River. Pleasant natives. A cocoanut-grove. The bolo. Green cocoanut. Salt pits. More trouble with the Customs. The verdict of Solomon. A hopeless grievance. Curiosities of taxation. Religious enthusiasm. Rival bishops. The Cardinal Delegate and the Aglipayano Monsignore. The Plaza at Jaro. A handsome old belfry. The Angelus. Peace and goodwill. | [231] |
| LETTER XXX. PHILIPPINE SANITATION—DECORATION DAY | |
| The coolness of 90°. A letter from Benguet. Expense of travelling. Baby mongeese. Native neighbours. The sanitary control. An appeal to verguenza. An ill-kept town. An inhuman custom. The new hospital. Decoration Day. Digging up American soldiers. Unwholesome sentimentality. | [239] |
| LETTER XXXI. MR TAFT—TROPICAL SUNSETS—UNPLEASANT NEIGHBOURS—FILIPINO LAW | |
| News of the coming of Mr Taft and his party. Miss Alice Roosevelt. A simple-minded damsel. Relaxing wind. By the Molo road. A lovely scene. An Eurasian household. A melodrama. And a farce. A flitting. Filipino justice. | [247] |
| LETTER XXXII. OUR MONGEESE—A FIRE—THE NATIVE EDUCATION QUESTION | |
| A distressing malady. Habits of my mongeese. An alarm of fire. A strange state of affairs. “Arbitrary race-distinctions.” Undemonstrable theories. | [255] |
| LETTER XXXIII. A PAPER-CHASE—LACK OF SPORTS—PREPARATIONS FOR MR TAFT | |
| A paper-chase. Lack of sports. Ladies astride. A problem for Mr Taft. Amusing headlines. Sad little pets. | [260] |
| LETTER XXXIV. TRYING HEAT—AN AMERICAN PROSPECTOR—NEW LODGERS—BARGAINING FOR PIÑA | |
| Damp heat. An enterprising millionaire. New neighbours. A happy household. Buying piña muslin. | [265] |
| LETTER XXXV. DECLARATION DAY—THE CULT OF THE FLAG—A PROCESSION, FESTIVITIES, AND A BALL | |
| Declaration Day. The cult of the Stars and Stripes. An angry critic. The procession. American officers. Methods of horsemanship. A cruel vanity. American soldiers. The Veteran Army of the Philippines. “Little brown brothers.” Representative parades. Celebrations in the Plaza. Strange developments of athletics. A melancholy contrast. Official ball at the Gobierno. An ardent anti-Taftite. An amusing assembly. Unconventional bandsmen. A keen pro-Filipino. An ill-bred Mestiza. Balancing a quilez. Some of the drawbacks of civilisation. | [270] |
| LETTER XXXVI. COCK-FIGHTING—PULAJANES | |
| A sad loss. The Filipino and his fighting-cock. Tricks of the ring. Off to the front. Peace and prosperity. A horrible story. A plague of flies. A slovenly guest. The poll-tax and some of its workings. | [286] |
| LETTER XXXVII. A PEARL OF GREAT PRICE | |
| Philippine flowers. A town of swamps. Monotonous scenery. Hawking a pearl. Pearl fisheries. Plentiful fish-supply. | [292] |
| LETTER XXXVIII. AGRICULTURAL POSSIBILITIES | |
| A Gymkhana on the beach. An alfresco domestic servant agency. Road-mending. The foreign cemetery. Justice for the white man. Treatment of servants. The Filipino tiller of the soil. Wasted opportunities. A terrible disease. Some native fruits, and some more wasted opportunities. A welcome invitation. | [295] |
| LETTER XXXIX. A LAST DAY AT NAGABA—THE “SECWAR” | |
| Farewell to Nagaba. The three-card trick. The Secret Police. A pleasant sail. Through the village. A native shop. Corn pone. An Anglipayano church. An idyll. Filipino coffee. Lack of American enterprise. A strange word. The coming of the Secwar. Human mosquitoes. A familiar type of character. | [301] |
| LETTER XL. PREPARATIONS | |
| Preparations for the Patron Saint. Arcadian animals. Mr Taft’s intentions. Determined patriots. A famous phrase. The blessings of a free press. American altruism. Political Pecksniffs. The spell of indolence. | [310] |
| LETTER XLI. THE FESTIVITIES | |
| The Comitiva Taft. A reception that failed. Unappreciative guests. The decorations. A culinary treat. A call in the dark before the dawn. Gay streets. The visitors. “Miss Alice.” Mr Taft. The “Taft smile.” Looking for equality. A well-instructed journalist. Floats. Some strange banners. Mr Taft’s opinions. An amusing contre-temps. A very informal reception. A little mistake in tact. The banquet. Disappointed admirers. A haphazard feast. The mermaid. Speeches. A fiery patriot. Instructive applause. A splendid orator. Mr Taft’s mission. Two critics. | [315] |
| LETTER XLII. WEIGHING ANCHOR | |
| An Iloilo hotel. A faithful servant. Complaisant Americans. Echoes of the visitation. Skilful reporting. A disappointed well-wisher. | [337] |
| LETTER XLIII. HOMEWARD BOUND | |
| A pleasant prospect. Comfortable quarters. Chop-sticks. A happy little slave. The Chinese pigtail. An unspoilt Filipino. The dignity of the white man. The dregs of East and West. A last whiff of the sugar-camarins. | [342] |
| Index. | [347] |
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
| Discharging Hemp from Paraos (Native Boats) | To face page [10] |
| A Filipino Girl, aged 10—A Casco (Barge) | ” [14] |
| Old Spanish Houses at Molo | ” [20] |
| The Back of our House, showing Azotea and Outbuildings | ” [24] |
| Filipino Servants | ” [28] |
| Riding a Carabao | ” [78] |
| Spanish Architecture in the Philippines: An Old Church at Daraga | ” [89] |
| Manila—Malacañan Palace | ” [120] |
| Manila—The Escolta | ” [126] |
| A Street in Manila, showing the Electric Tram | ” [129] |
| Manila—The Luneta | ” [130] |
| Bird’s-Eye View of Inland Suburbs of Manila | ” [138] |
| A Philippine Pony | ” [174] |
| Native Houses | ” [204] |
| The Track of a Typhoon | ” [210] |
| A Filipino Market-Place | ” [218] |
| A Three-Man Breeze off Guimaras—A Parao | ” [222] |
| A Palm Grove | ” [232] |
| Cathedral and Belfry at Jaro | ” [236] |
| A Suburb of Iloilo | ” [242] |
| Awaiting Shipment—Coffins containing Bones of American Soldiers stacked in Malate Cemetery, Manila | ” [244] |
| A Village Cock-Fight | ” [287] |
| Watering Carabaos | ” [293] |
| A Filipino Fish-Market | ” [294] |