How to Winter Bees in Controllable Hives.
Bees are wintered in Controllable Hives on their summer stands, by my plan, without loss, by maintaining an even temperature in the brood section, and disposing of all moisture or perspiration thrown off by the bees in cold weather. I have never lost a swarm of bees in Controllable Hives in the winter. I attempt to winter none, except strong, healthy stocks. I have no mouldy combs, no sour honey. The combs are kept perfectly dry, and the hives in a healthy condition. I do not lose a teacupful of bees, on the average, from each of my hives during the winter.
To winter in Controllable Hives, prepare as follows: At the commencement of steady cold weather, which, in the New England States, is usually near the close of November, put the bees in condition to winter by entirely closing the upper entrance to the hive, and the lower one shut up about one-half.[11] Take out the box frames at the sides of the brood section, and put the movable partitions in place. Remove the boxes and feeder, or honey board, (whichever is in place) from over the brood section. Place the ventilator (described elsewhere) over the brood section, so the lower edge of the ventilator, at the sides, will rest on the upper edges of the movable partitions, on each side of the brood section. Pack the sides of the hive (that part occupied by the side boxes in summer,) closely with very line hay or straw. Pack the cap as full of the same matter as it can be crowded. Then put the thickness of one or two inches over the ventilator, filling up evenly, so when the cap is placed ever the upper part, the cap and sides will be compactly filled. There must be no spaces left unfilled, the object being to secure an even temperature in the brood section, and absorb all moisture thrown off by the bees; and to do this successfully, the cap and sides must be closely packed throughout. When you have the cap and sides well packed, replace the cap, and the work is done. Shade the front of the hives during the winter months. No matter if the snow drifts over the hive so as to completely bury it from sight, let it remain;—your bees are safe.
[11] To secure a slight upward draught of air, to carry off the moisture arising from the bees, make a hole a half-inch in diameter in front and rear of the cap, in the center, close to the top or roof boards. (And here let me say, the roof boards, or boards covering the cap, should project about an inch, as they can be more firmly nailed, and make better joints; for driving rains must not be allowed to penetrate to the inside of the hive.) The inside of each hole should be covered with wire cloth, to keep out insects, etc.
A neighbor of mine had fifteen stocks in Controllable Hives completely buried in snow over six feet deep, and the crust formed over them so it would bear a horse. They remained under the snow from January until April, when they thawed out, and every stock was found to be in first-class order.
When there is only a small quantity of snow about the hive, say only enough to cover the lower entrance, and there should come a very warm spell of weather, which would bring the bees out, be sure to clear away the snow so they need not be kept back by it. But it will take an exceedingly warm day in winter to rouse the bees from their dormant state in the Controllable Hive, and bring them out for a turn in the open air. If the air is warm enough to induce them to come out, it is always warm enough for them to fly briskly. In this respect there is a great contrast between my hive and others. With other hives, an hour's warm sun will bring out the bees in winter, when the air is cold, and the consequence is, they fall into the snow and perish by hundreds. In this way stocks are often reduced in numbers until all are lost. The dysentery generally attacks such stocks (brought on by the sudden changes in temperature in the hive.) and hastens their destruction, by causing them to leave the hive, when they would not do so if in a healthy condition. Bees, when wintered in Controllable Hives as directed, will come out in the spring, strong in numbers, and in a healthy condition—in great contrast to the weak and diseased stocks which have been wintered in the ordinary manner. I have perfect confidence in the method of wintering here recommended, for I have had it in practical use for many years, and have never lost a stock, notwithstanding some winters have been very destructive to bees in this section, some, who practice the old methods, losing their entire stocks. I learn from my correspondents in all parts of the United States that there is great loss of bees in winter; so great in fact as to discourage many from attempting to engage in apiculture.
My plan of wintering is very simple, and commends itself to every intelligent person. In a few words it may be expressed thus: The brood section is secured against the effects of sudden changes in the weather, (this keeps the bees dormant throughout the winter season, which is as nature designed,) and provides for the absorption of all moisture and perspiration arising from the bees, white in a dormant slate. These two points are the foundation of successful wintering.
CHAPTER XVI.
TRANSFERRING BEES.
AS some of my readers may have bees in ordinary hives, which they would like to transfer to the Controllable Hive, I will devote a chapter to Transferring.
If you have bees in a box or patent hive, or any of the thousand and one bee hive humbugs, which are of little or no profit, and cause you much trouble and perplexity in swarming time, and frequent and heavy losses in winter, you can move them into Controllable Hives—comb, honey and bees together—and manage them on the plan here recommended, and they will winter well, come out strong and healthy in the spring, and cause comparatively no trouble in swarming time, yielding you a good profit yearly.
The best time to transfer is as early in spring as the weather becomes warm enough to keep the bees active every day, which, in the New England States, is usually in April. It is a good time to transfer about twenty-four days after the first swarm issues from a stock, as at that time there is but little brood, and usually but few bees. October is a very good time to transfer, but not as good as either of the times before mentioned. Great care is required to prevent robbing, and also to have the comb frames all filled with combs, and in good position for the bees to winter. As cold weather is so close at hand, the bees will have but little time to arrange for winter.
In transferring, construct the Controllable Hive as directed, with exception of the comb frames, from which leave off the triangular piece, as the comb can be better fitted to a flat surface. Make several holes one-fourth inch in diameter through the top, bottom and ends of frames, and a like number of sharp wooden pins about two inches long to fit these holes.
Early in the morning, before the bees begin to fly, prepare your smoker, go to the hive you propose to transfer, and before you touch it, smoke the bees at the entrances moderately, giving them two or three puffs, waiting about a minute and giving them two or three more. Then stop the entrances, so no bees can escape. Take the hive from the stand and carry it to some out-building, so the bees from the other hives will not trouble you, and get a taste of the honey, thereby inciting them to robbery. Turn the hive bottom up, and with two sticks, each about a half-inch in diameter and twelve inches long, strike the hive lightly half a dozen times, and then wait for two or three minutes. Then with the sticks on each side of the hive drum briskly (but lightly, so not to break the comb,) for about five minutes. Then puff smoke under the bottom board on all sides. Much of this preliminary work is for the purpose of confusing the bees, and inducing them to fill themselves with honey from the cells of the hive, as a bee gorged with honey will never volunteer an attack for the purpose of stinging. The bees are now ready to be transferred. You will need some one to assist you, and it will be necessary for you to put on your articles of protection, and keep your smoker in readiness for use, as occasionally a swarm is bard to subdue, though the great majority of them are perfectly docile after the treatment recommended. But we are to "beard the lion in his den," and to be forewarned is to be forearmed.
The bees usually manifest their submission by a loud humming noise. If after you commence operations (before you get the side of the hive off) they show a disposition to be cross, replace the bottom board, close the entrances, if open, and give the insects a good smoking, at the entrances, and by raising the bottom board enough to introduce the smoke; give them the smoke freely for several minutes. Then again remove the bottom board. (These directions apply to the common box hive. If hives of a different pattern are operated upon, vary the operation to conform to the requirements of the case, applying the same principles.) Then with a chisel and hammer remove one side of the hive (the side to which the bees have attached the least comb,) and with a thin, sharp table-knife, cut the edges of the comb from the sides of the hive. It is well to have a table or stand near by, with a cloth folded in several thicknesses, on which to lay the sheets of comb with the bees adhering, if necessary. The cloth prevents crushing. Cut out a comb from the hive with the bees adhering, and cut off the edges, if required, so it will fit the new frame closely at the top and bottom. No matter if it does not go the whole length of the frame from front to rear, as the bees will finish it.[12] Have the comb occupy the same position, relatively, in the new hive, that it did in the old. When the comb is in place in the frame, secure it by putting the wooden pins through the holes in the frames into the combs, and having fastened it firmly in place by means of the pins, place it in the Controllable Hive in its proper position.
[12] But very few hives are large enough for their combs to fill the movable comb frames of the Controllable Hive.
Tims proceed, till all the frames of the Controllable Hive are filled, or the comb in the old hive is exhausted. In transferring, very old, black combs should be discarded even if you do not have your new hive more than half full. Get all the bees, it possible, in the new hive, and when you set it on the stand, close the lower entrance entirely, and let the upper one remain only one-half open, for a few days, until the bees get well located in their new home. Be careful not to crush any of the bees, and take special care not to injure the queen.
As you will probably complete the operation of transferring at about the time that bees will be flying briskly about the other hives, it will be better to put wire cloth over the entrances, to confine the bees you have transferred, and let them remain in the out-building until about an hour before sunset; then set them on the stand and give them their liberty. Keeping them shut up for the time named, gives them a chance to take up the honey which runs from the transferred combs, and which might, if the bees were carried immediately to the stand, incite robbing.
Transferring is by no means so formidable an operation as at first appears. I have transferred a very large number of swarms from the old box hives, without any protection for hands or face, and now the bees seldom show any disposition to sting. Yet I would advise beginners to protect themselves, until by practice they become familiar with the work. "Practice makes perfect" is an old and true saying, and it applies to all operations with bees, I assure you. In my first attempts at this work I thought I must be protected, and I would not for the world proceed without a protector, and that of the most invulnerable kind. Now, having had much practice, I feel no necessity for any covering whatever. I trust I have made my method of transferring perfectly plain, so that every one who wishes may avail themselves of its advantages.
CHAPTER XVII.
ITALIAN BEES.
THE Italian Bee is a native of the Alps, and was first imported to this country about the year 1860. The Italian being a native of mountainous regions and a high latitude, they were reported to be extremely hardy and vigorous. Those who were first to obtain them, were unanimous in their praise of the Italian bee, and fully agreed that it was superior to our native or black bee in very many respects. The good reputation which preceded the introduction of the bee to this country, by time and experience in their care, has been fully vindicated.
The pure Italian bees are superior to the natives in the following characteristics: They are more hardy and vigorous, withstanding our severe winters, with ordinary care, better than the natives; they are more industrious than the native bee, being very active in storing honey in cool, windy, or cloudy weather, such as keeps the native bees quiet in the hives.
The pure Italian, being larger and more vigorous than the natives, go greater distances to collect honey, and as they are larger, they carry more at a time, and being swifter of flight than the natives, they go the same distance in much quicker time. Then, too, the pure Italian bee is very beautiful, nearly the entire body being of a golden color, so that some of its admirers have given it the name of "golden bee." It is very mild in disposition, seldom offering to sting unless unreasonably irritated. They show great activity in protecting their hives from the bee moth, even when weak in numbers. They also show the same trait in defending their stores from the attacks of robber bees. When the native bees have come buzzing around a hive of Italians in search of plunder, I have seen an Italian dart from the hive like a bullet, and seizing a native, while on the wing, bear him to earth and dispatch him with a sting. This feat I never saw a native bee accomplish. Being larger than the natives they are able to reach the honey in the red clover, and many other flowers not accessible to our common bees, which makes an essential difference in the amount of honey collected.
Rev. L. L. Langstroth says of the Italian bees: "They gather more than twice as much honey in the same localities, in the same time, as the swarms of native bees."
I consider the pure Italian Bee a valuable and very desirable acquisition. I have furnished several of my lady friends with full colonies of them in Controllable Hives, and they have expressed themselves as very much pleased with their gentle disposition and great beauty.
I think the points of superiority here designated will be found in the pure Italian bee. Very many, who have purchased bees purporting to be Italians, have been grossly deceived, having received simply a native swarm of bees, the queen of which, a pure native, had been impregnated by a drone having a slight tinge of Italian blood; such stock was but very little, if any, better than a pure native swarm.
I find I can make an improvement, even in the pure Italian stock, by selecting queens for rearing to supply my full stocks and with eggs and drones, from such stocks as show the superior characteristics in the fullest degree. This course persevered in for a term of years will show marked results in the improvement of the desirable points of superiority found in the Italian bee.
I take great pride in my Italian bees. I believe they are as beautiful specimens of this variety as it is possible to produce, and possessing the characteristics of superiority of the Italians in the fullest degree. The points which I strive to cultivate and develop fully, are: Industry, mildness of disposition, beauty of color, vigor of constitution, etc.
I have here given in brief my views of the Italian bee, as I receive many letters of enquiry in regard to them. I base my statements on practical experience. I would advise all who wish to procure the Italian bees, to exercise great care in selecting them, and purchase only of those who are known to have pure stocks, for the best is the cheapest in the end, no matter if the first cost seems high. If the worth of the money is in the bees, the higher the price paid, the better you will be satisfied. But do not pay even a low price for inferior stock, for you will not be satisfied.
Controllable Hive. Fig. I.
CHAPTER XVIII.
CONSTRUCTION OF CONTROLLABLE HIVES.
ON the opposite page is given [Figure I]. of a perspective view of the Controllable Bee Hive, with the measurements of its exterior parts. The body of the hive is made in two parts, A and B. The lower edges of the upper part B rest upon the cleats C, attached to the outside of the lower part of A, near its upper edge—as will be seen by reference to Figures [I.] and [II.] The middle board D of the bottom is loose, and is held in place by hooks E. The middle board F, at the sides of the lower part A, are loose, hinged at their lower edges, and are held in place when closed by the buttons G. In front of the lower part A, near both its lower and upper edges, are formed slots, or bee passages, H. The lower part A is divided longitudinally into three compartments by two movable partitions. The side compartments are designed to receive the honey boxes J; and the center compartment forms the brood section. To the inner surfaces of the front and rear walls of the brood section are attached boards, forming a double thickness, to secure a more even temperature, keeping out the heat in summer and the cold in winter. The grain of the inner board runs crosswise of the outer one to prevent warping. The upper edges of the inner boards are rebated out five-eighths inch square inside, to receive the ends of the comb frames of the brood section.
Controllable Hive. Fig. II.
[Figure II.] is a perspective view of the Controllable Hive, with the upper part of the case removed, showing the position of the glass honey boxes at the top, with the feeder T in the rear, and also showing the position of the side boxes J, in the large frame O. as shown more clearly in [Figure III]. The inner ends of the side boxes J, next to the brood section, are formed of boards C, narrower than the boxes, leaving side spaces, to allow the bees to pass in and out freely from the brood section to the side boxes. When top boxes and feeder are not on, a board called a honey board is placed over the brood section, fitting very closely, so as to confine the heat, generated by the bees, to the brood section. In winter the brood section is covered by a ventilator made as follows: Take a piece of fine board one-half inch thick. Get out two pieces, each one inch wide and twenty-two and three-eighths inches long, and two pieces of same width each ten inches long. Nail the short pieces on to the ends of the long pieces, forming a frame nine inches wide by twenty-two and three-eighths inches long, inside measurement. Over this frame tack a piece of wire cloth twenty-three and three-eighths inches long, by ten inches wide, of a very fine mesh. This frame will just fit over the brood section, and give a space between the wire cloth and the top of the comb frames of about one and three-eighths inches. Tack the wire cloth on closely, so no bees can escape when the ventilator is in place. This ventilator is to be used only in winter, as directed under the chapter on Wintering.
[Figure III.], on next page, is a perspective view of a set of side surplus honey boxes and their inclosing frame, with measurements of the different parts.
Side Surplus Honey Boxes. Fig. III.
The brood section of the hive is twenty and one-half inches long, nine inches wide and twelve inches deep, inside measurement. The brood section contains six movable comb frames, resting on rebatings, and held at the proper distance apart at the bottom by a brace. The only plate where these frames touch the hive, is where the top bar of the comb frames rests on the rebating at the ends. To the top bar of each comb frame (on the under side) is nailed a triangular comb guide to aid in securing straight combs. Each side of the triangle is one inch wide. A piece of board one inch wide and three-eighths inch thick is laid on top of the comb frames lengthwise in the centre on this piece. The ends of the top boxes rest in the center where they come together. Notches are cut on the underside, crosswise, to admit of the passage of the bees.[13]
[13] I have exercised great care, and incurred considerable expense, in giving drawings with measurements and directions for constructing Controllable Hives, glass boxes, etc., that such of my readers as wish may be able to construct the hives and manage bees according to the new system as taught in this work. I have no time or desire to establish a business in the manufacture of hives, but if any of my readers want a full sized Controllable Hive, ready for a swarm of bees, the better to enable them to make the Controllable Hive, I will furnish them. Price eight dollars. In no case will I furnish more than one to the same address. The hive is not patent, so any one can manufacture and use as many as they wish. They can make them at their home, especially in the winter season, much cheaper than I can furnish them.
In the construction of hives use the best dry pine lumber, free from Haws or cracks, and put on a good coat of paint to protect from the weather. As the hives are to remain in the open air the year round, the best of lumber is required, and that to be well protected with a heavy coat of the most durable paint. Make close-fitting joints and nail thoroughly.
These hives, if properly constructed of sound lumber, will last many years. I have had the same hive on one stand incessantly for six years, and at the end of that time it is as good, to all appearances, as when first put there.
All who desire to construct Controllable Hives, and adopt the plan of bee management recommended in this book, can do so freely, as there is no patent on the hive, or any of its parts or fixtures.
CHAPTER XIX.
MONTHLY DUTIES.
THE successful management and care of bees requires forethought and preparation for all labor and care bestowed upon them, if we desire to bestow it at the proper time, and in the most judicious manner. I have in this chapter given only brief hints as to the work to be performed. Such of my readers as are located in a climate essentially differing from that of the New England States, will perceive the necessity of varying their management to correspond with the difference in climate, etc.
I shall repeat some of the statements already made, in order to impress them more thoroughly upon the bee keeper. The object of this chapter is to bring to the mind of the bee keeper the more important duties required in the successful use of the system recommended in this work.