H. Edrige delt. T. Dickinson sculpt.

Mr. M. Park.

Publish’d April 5.1799, by G. Nicol, Pall Mall.

TRAVELS
IN THE
INTERIOR DISTRICTS OF AFRICA:
PERFORMED UNDER THE
DIRECTION AND PATRONAGE
OF THE
AFRICAN ASSOCIATION,
IN THE
YEARS 1795, 1796, AND 1797.

By MUNGO PARK, Surgeon.

WITH
AN APPENDIX,
CONTAINING
GEOGRAPHICAL ILLUSTRATIONS OF AFRICA
By MAJOR RENNELL.

egens Libyæ deserta peragro. Virg.

LONDON:

PRINTED BY W. BULMER AND CO. FOR THE AUTHOR;
AND SOLD BY G. AND W. NICOL, BOOKSELLERS TO HIS MAJESTY,
PALL-MALL. 1799.

TO THE
NOBLEMEN AND GENTLEMEN,
ASSOCIATED FOR THE PURPOSE OF EXPLORING
THE
INTERIOR REGIONS OF AFRICA,
THIS
JOURNAL OF TRAVELS
ON THAT CONTINENT,
PERFORMED UNDER THEIR PATRONAGE,
IS,
WITH ALL HUMILITY,
INSCRIBED,
BY THEIR FAITHFUL
AND OBLIGED HUMBLE SERVANT,

April 10th, 1799.MUNGO PARK.

PREFACE.

The following Journal, drawn up from original minutes and notices made at the proper moment and preserved with great difficulty, is now offered to the Public by the direction of my noble and honourable employers, the Members of the African Association. I regret that it is so little commensurate to the patronage I have received. As a composition, it has nothing to recommend it, but truth. It is a plain, unvarnished tale; without pretensions of any kind, except that it claims to enlarge, in some degree, the circle of African geography. For this purpose, my services were offered, and accepted by the Association; and, I trust, I have not laboured altogether in vain. The work, however, must speak for itself; and I should not have thought any preliminary observations necessary, if I did not consider myself called upon, both by justice and gratitude, to offer those which follow.

Immediately after my return from Africa, the acting Committee of the Association,[1] taking notice of the time it would require to prepare an account in detail, as it now appears; and being desirous of gratifying, as speedily as possible, the curiosity which many of the Members were pleased to express concerning my discoveries, determined that an epitome, or abridgment of my travels, should be forthwith prepared from such materials and oral communications as I could furnish, and printed for the use of the Association; and also, that an engraved Map of my route should accompany it. A memoir, thus supplied and improved, was accordingly drawn up in two parts, by Members of the Association, and distributed among the Society: the first part consisting of a narrative, in abstract, of my travels, by Bryan Edwards, Esq.; the second, of Geographical Illustrations of my progress, by Major James Rennell, F.R.S. Major Rennell was pleased also to add, not only a Map of my route, constructed in conformity to my own observations and sketches (when freed from those errors, which the Major’s superior knowledge, and distinguished accuracy in geographical researches, enabled him to discover and correct), but also a General Map, shewing the progress of discovery, and improvement in the Geography of North Africa; together with a Chart of the lines of magnetic variation, in the seas around that immense continent.

Availing myself therefore, on the present occasion, of assistance like this, it is impossible that I can present myself before the Public, without expressing how deeply and gratefully sensible I am of the honour and advantage which I derive from the labours of those Gentlemen; for Mr. Edwards has kindly permitted me to incorporate, as occasion offered, the whole of his narrative into different parts of my work; and Major Rennell, with equal good will, allows me not only to embellish and elucidate my Travels, with the Maps beforementioned, but also to subjoin his Geographical Illustrations entire.

Thus aided and encouraged, I should deliver this volume to the world, with that confidence of a favourable reception, which no merits of my own could authorize me to claim; were I not apprehensive that expectations have been formed, by some of my subscribers, of discoveries to be unfolded, which I have not made, and of wonders to be related, of which I am utterly ignorant. There is danger that those who feel a disappointment of this nature, finding less to astonish and amuse in my book, than they had promised to themselves beforehand, will not even allow me the little merit which I really possess. Painful as this circumstance may prove to my feelings, I shall console myself under it, if the distinguished persons, under whose auspices I entered on my mission, shall allow that I have executed the duties of it to their satisfaction; and that they consider the Journal which I have now the honour to present to them, to be, what I have endeavoured to make it, an honest and faithful report of my proceedings and observations in their service, from the outset of my journey to its termination.

M. P.

[1]This Committee consists of the following Noblemen and Gentlemen; Earl of Moira, Lord Bishop of Landaff, Right Hon. Sir Joseph Banks, President of the Royal Society; Andrew Stewart, Esq. F.R.S. and Bryan Edwards, Esq. F.R.S. Concerning the original institution of the Society itself, and the progress of discovery, previous to my expedition, the fullest information has already been given in the various publications which the Society have caused to be made.

CONTENTS.

[CHAPTER I.]
The Author’s Motives for undertakingthe Voyage — his Instructions and Departure — arrives at Jillifree,on the Gambia River — proceeds to Vintain. — Some Account of theFeloops. — Proceeds up the River for Jonkakonda — arrives at Dr.Laidley’s. — Some Account of Pisania, and the British Factoryestablished at that Place. — The Author’s Employment during hisStay at Pisania — his Sickness and Recovery — the Country described— prepares to set out for the Interior.page 1
[CHAPTER II.]
Description of the Feloops, theJaloffs, the Foulahs, and Mandingoes. — Some Account of the Tradebetween the Nations of Europe and the Natives of Africa by the Wayof the Gambia, and between the Native Inhabitants of the Coast andthe Nations of the interior Countries — their Mode of selling andbuying, &c.p. 15
[CHAPTER III.]
The Author sets out from Pisania —his Attendants — reaches Jindey. — Story related by a MandingoNegro. — Proceeds to Medina, the Capital of Woolli. — Interviewwith the King. — Saphies or Charms. — Proceeds to Kolor. —Description of Mumbo Jumbo — arrives at Koojar — wrestling Match. —Crosses the Wilderness, and arrives at Tallika, in the Kingdom ofBondou.p. 29
[CHAPTER IV.]
Some Account of the Inhabitants ofTallika. — The Author proceeds for Fatteconda — Incidents on theRoad. — Crosses the Neriko, arrives at Koorkarany — reachesthe River Falemé —Fishery on that River — proceeds along its Bank to Naye or Nayemow— crosses the Falemé and arrives at Fatteconda. — Has an Interviewwith Almami, the Sovereign of Bondou. — Description of the King’sDwelling — has a second Interview with the King, who begs theAuthor’s Coat. — Author visits the King’s Wives — is permitted todepart on friendly Terms. — Journey by Night — arrives at Joag. —Some Account of Bondou and its Inhabitants the Foulahs.p. 46
[CHAPTER V.]
Account of Kajaaga. — Serawoollies —their Manners and Language. — Account of Joag. — The Author is illtreated, and robbed of half of his Effects, by Order of Batcheri,the King. — Charity of a female Slave. — The Author is visited byDemba Sego, Nephew of the King of Kasson, who offers to conduct himin safety to that Kingdom. — Offer accepted. — The Author and hisProtector, with a numerous Retinue, set out and reach Samee, on theBanks of the Senegal. — Proceed to Kayee, and crossing the Senegal,arrive in the Kingdom of Kasson.p. 63
[CHAPTER VI.]
Arrival at Teesee. — Interview withTiggity Sego, the King’s Brother — the Author’s detention at Teesee— some Account of that Place and its Inhabitants — incidents whichoccurred there. — Rapacious Conduct of Tiggity Sego towards theAuthor on his Departure. — Sets out for Kooniakary, the Capital ofthe Kingdom. — Incidents on the Road, and Arrival atKooniakary.p. 74
[CHAPTER VII.]
The Author admitted to an Audience ofthe King of Kasson, whom he finds well disposed towards him. —Incidents during the Author’s Stay at Kooniakary. — Departs thencefor Kemmoo, the Capital of Kaarta. — Is received with greatKindness by the King of Kaarta, who dissuades him from prosecutinghis Journey, on Account of approaching Hostilities with the King ofBambarra. — The Author determines, notwithstanding, to proceed; andthe usual Routes being obstructed, takes the Path to Ludamar, aMoorish Kingdom. — Is accommodated by the King with a Guide toJarra, the frontier Town of the Moorish Territories;and sets out forthat Place, accompanied by three of the King’s Sons, and 200Horsemen.p. 85
[CHAPTER VIII.]
Journey from Kemmoo to Funingkedy. —Some Account of the Lotus. — A Youth murdered by the Moors —interesting Scene at his Death. — Author passes through Simbing. —Some Particulars concerning Major Houghton. — Author reaches Jarra— Situation of the surrounding States at the Period of his Arrivalthere, and a brief Account of the War between Kaarta andBambarra.p. 98
[CHAPTER IX.]
Some Account of Jarra, and theMoorish Inhabitants. — The Author applies for, and obtainsPermission from Ali, the Moorish Chief or Sovereign of Ludamar, topass through his Territories. — Departs from Jarra, and arrives atDeena — ill treated by the Moors. — Proceeds to Sampaka — finds aNegro who makes Gunpowder. — Continues his Journey to Samee, wherehe is seized by some Moors who are sent for that Purpose by Ali —is conveyed a Prisoner to the Moorish Camp at Benowm, on theBorders of the Great Desert.p. 111
[CHAPTER X.]
Various Occurrences during theAuthor’s Confinement at Benowm — is visited by some Moorish Ladies.— A Funeral and Wedding. — The Author receives an extraordinaryPresent from the Bride. — Other Circumstances illustrative of theMoorish Character and Manners.p. 126
[CHAPTER XI.]
Occurrences at the Camp continued. —Information collected by the Author, concerning Houssa andTombuctoo; and the situation of the latter. — The Route describedfrom Morocco to Benowm. — The Author’s Distress from Hunger. — Aliremoves his Camp to the Northward. — The Author is carried Prisonerto the new Encampment, and is presented to Queen Fatima. — GreatDistress from the Want of Water.p. 138
[CHAPTER XII.]
Containing some further miscellaneousReflections on the Moorish Character, and Manners. — Observationsconcerning the Great Desert, its Animals, wild and domestic,&c. &c.p. 149
[CHAPTER XIII.]
Ali departs for Jarra, and the Authorallowed to follow him thither. — The Author’s faithful Servant,Demba, is seized by Ali’s Order, and sent back into Slavery. — Alireturns to his Camp, and permits the Author to remain at Jarra,who, thenceforward, meditates his Escape. — Daisy, King of Kaarta,approaching with his Army towards Jarra, the Inhabitants quit thetown, and the Author accompanies them in their Flight. — A Party ofMoors overtake him at Queira. — He gets away from them at Daybreak:— is again pursued by another Party, and robbed; but finallyeffects his Escape.p. 161
[CHAPTER XIV.]
The Author feels great Joy at hisDeliverance, and proceeds through the Wilderness, E.S.E.; but findshis Situation very deplorable. — Suffers greatly from Thirst, andfaints on the Sand: — recovers, and makes another Effort to pushforward. Is providentially relieved by a Fall of Rain. — Arrives ata Foulah Village, where he is refused Relief by the Dooty; butobtains Food from a poor Woman. — Continues his Journey through theWilderness, and the next Day lights on another Foulah Village,where he is hospitably received by one of the Shepherds. — Arriveson the third Day at a Negro Town called Wawra, tributary to theKing of Bambarra.p. 175
[CHAPTER XV.]
The Author proceeds to Wassiboo — isjoined by some fugitive Kaartans, who accompany him in his Routethrough Bambarra. — Discovers the Niger. — Some Account of Sego,the Capital of Bambarra. — Mansong, the King, refuses to see theAuthor, but sends him a Present. — Great Hospitality of a NegroWoman.p. 185
[CHAPTER XVI.]
Departure from Sego, and Arrival atKabba. — Description of the Shea, or vegetable Butter Tree. — TheAuthor and his Guide arrive at Sansanding. Behaviour of the Moorsat that Place. — The Author pursues his Journey to the Eastward. —Incidents on the Road. — Arrives at Modiboo, and proceeds for Kea;but obliged to leave his Horse by the Way. — Embarks at Kea in aFisherman’s Canoe for Moorzan; is conveyed from thence across theNiger to Silla. — Determines to proceed no further Eastward. — SomeAccount of the further Course of the Niger, and the Towns in itsVicinage, towards the East.p. 201
[CHAPTER XVII.]
The Author returns Westward — arrivesat Modiboo, and recovers his Horse — finds great Difficulty intravelling, in consequence of the Rains, and the overflowing of theRiver; — is informed that the King of Bambarra had sent Persons toapprehend him: — avoids Sego, and prosecutes his Journey along theBanks of the Niger. — Incidents on the Road. — Cruelties attendanton African Wars. — The Author crosses the River Frina, and arrivesat Taffara.p. 218
[CHAPTER XVIII.]
Inhospitable Reception at Taffara. —A Negro Funeral at Sooha. — The Author continues his Route throughseveral Villages along the Banks of the Niger, until he comes toKoolikorro. — Supports himself by writing Saphies —reaches Maraboo — loses the Road; and after many Difficultiesarrives at Bammakoo. — Takes the Road for Sibidooloo — meets withgreat Kindness at a Village called Kooma; — is afterwards robbed,stripped, and plundered by Banditti. — The Author’s Resource andConsolation under exquisite Distress. — He arrives in Safety atSibidooloo.p. 233
[CHAPTER XIX.]
Government of Manding. — The Author’sReception by the Mansa, or chief Man of Sibidooloo, who takesMeasures for the Recovery of his Horse and Effects. — The Author removes to Wanda; —great Scarcity, and its afflicting Consequences. — The Authorrecovers his Horse and Clothes — presents his Horse to the Mansa;and prosecutes his Journey to Kamalia — some Account of that Town.— The Author’s kind Reception by Karfa Taura, a Slatee, whoproposes to go to the Gambia in the next dry Season, with a Caravanof Slaves — The Author’s Sickness, and Determination to remain andaccompany Karfa.p. 245
[CHAPTER XX.]
Of the Climate and Seasons. — Winds.— Vegetable Productions. — Population. — General Observations onthe Character and Disposition of the Mandingoes; and a summaryAccount of their Manners and Habits of Life, their Marriages,&c.p. 258
[CHAPTER XXI.]
The Account of the Mandingoescontinued. — Their Notions in respect of the Planetary Bodies, andthe Figure of the Earth. — Their religious Opinions, and Belief ina Future State. — Their Diseases and Methods of Treatment. — TheirFuneral Ceremonies, Amusements, Occupations, Diet, Arts,Manufactures, &c.p. 271
[CHAPTER XXII.]
Observations concerning the State andSources of Slavery in Africa.p. 287
[CHAPTER XXIII.]
Of Gold-dust, and the Manner in whichit is collected. — Process of Washing it. — Its Value in Africa. —Of Ivory. — Surprise of the Negroes at the Eagerness of theEuropeans for this Commodity. — Scattered Teeth frequently pickedup in the Woods. — Mode of Hunting the Elephant. — Some Reflectionson the unimproved State of the Country, &c.p. 299
[CHAPTER XXIV.]
Transactions at Kamalia resumed. —Arabic MSS. in Use among the Mahomedan Negroes. — Reflections concerning theConversion and Education of the Negro Children. — Return of theAuthor’s Benefactor, Karfa. — Further Account of the Purchase andTreatment of Slaves. — Fast of Rhamadan how observed by theNegroes. — Author’s anxiety for the Day of Departure. — The Caravansets out — Account of it on its Departure, and Proceedings on theRoad, until its Arrival at Kinytakooro.p. 313
[CHAPTER XXV.]
The Coffle crosses the JallonkaWilderness. — Miserable Fate of one of the female Slaves; — arrivesat Sooseeta; — proceeds to Manna. — Some Account of the Jalonkas. —Crosses the main Stream of the Senegal. — Bridge of a singularConstruction. — Arrives at Malacotta. — Remarkable Conduct of theKing of the Jaloffs.p. 329
[CHAPTER XXVI.]
The Caravan proceeds to Konkodoo, andcrosses the Falemé River. — Its arrival at Baniserile, Kirwani, andTambacunda. — Incidents on the Road. A matrimonial Case. — Specimenof the Shea Tree. — The Caravan proceeds through many Towns andVillages, and arrives at length on the Banks of Gambia. — passesthrough Medina, the Capital of Woolli, and finally stops at Jindey.— The Author, accompanied by Karfa, proceeds to Pisania. — VariousOccurrences previous to his Departure from Africa, — takes hisPassage in an American Ship. — Short Account of his Voyage to GreatBritain by the Way of the West Indies.p. 345.

A [VOCABULARY] OF THE MANDINGO LANGUAGE.

[APPENDIX.]
[CHAPTER I.]
Concerning the Ideas entertained bythe Ancient Geographers, as well as the Moderns, down to the Timesof Delisle and D’Anville, respecting the Course of the RiverNiger.page iii
[CHAPTER II.]
Concerning the GeographicalDiscoveries of Mr. Park.p. xiii
[CHAPTER III.]
Construction of the Geography of Mr.Park’s Expedition into Africa.p. xxii
[CHAPTER IV.]
The Construction of the Geographycontinued.p. xxxvi
[CHAPTER V.]
Construction of the New Map of NorthAfrica. — New Arrangement of the Course of the Nile — Its distantFountain yet unexplored by Europeans. — A central Position inAfrica, determined. — Edrisi’s Line of Distance, consistent. —Errors of Leo.p. li
[CHAPTER VI.]
The Subject continued — Course of theRiver Niger, at large — has no Communication with the Nile —Ptolemy’s Description of it consistent.p. lxx
[CHAPTER VII.]
Observations on the physicaland political Geography of North Africa — Naturallydivisible into three Parts — Productive in Gold — Boundary of theMoors and Negroes — the Foulahs, the Leucæthiopesof the Ancients.p. lxxxii

The following African Words, recurring very frequently in the course of the Narrative, it is thought necessary to prefix an Explanation of them for the Reader’s convenience.

ERRATA.

Page 13, line 9, after the word of, insert the.

—— 18, the third line from the bottom, for Mandigoes, read Mandingoes. This error occurs in some other places.

—— 20, line 6, after the word as, insert counsel.

—— 30, line 8, dele and.

—— 47, line 14, after expression, insert even.

—— 60, line 14, after Prophet dele the period.

—— 91, third line from the bottom, after difficulty, insert and.

—— 136, line 4, dele there.

—— 261, third line from the bottom, for is, read was.

The Mandingo language being merely oral, it sometimes unavoidably happened to the Author, in reducing African terms to writing, to express the same word differently, in different parts of his journal. Thus, on revising his papers, he found Jillifree and Jillifrey used indiscriminately for the name of the same town; and in like manner Kinyeto and Kenneyetoo; Cancaba and Kancaba; Tambacunda and Tombaconda; and some others. As this was not observed until many of the sheets were printed, some of these instances of inattention will be found in the ensuing work, which it is hoped the good-natured reader will excuse. In cases of doubt, the Map of the Author’s route is generally to be considered as the best authority; and to that also he refers for the course and distance of each day’s progress.