CHAPTER I.
Concerning the Ideas entertained by the Ancient Geographers, as well as the Moderns, down to the Times of Delisle and D’Anville, respecting the Course of the River Niger.
The late journey of Mr. Park, into the interior of Western Africa, has brought to our knowledge more important facts respecting its Geography (both moral and physical), than have been collected by any former traveller. By pointing out to us the positions of the sources of the great rivers Senegal, Gambia, and Niger,[26] we are instructed where to look for the elevated parts of the country; and even for the most elevated point in the western quarter of Africa, by the place from whence the Niger and Gambia turn in opposite directions to the east and west. We are taught, moreover, the common boundary of the desert and fruitful parts of the country, and of the Moors and Negroes; which latter is the more interesting, as it may be termed a boundary in moral geography; from the opposite qualities of mind, as well as of body, of the Moors and Negroes: for that physical geography gives rise to habits, which often determine national character, must be allowed by every person, who is a diligent observer of mankind.
It must be acknowledged, that the absolute extent of Mr. Park’s progress in Africa, compared with the amazing size of that continent, appears but small, although it be nearly 1100 British miles in a direct line, reckoned from its western extremity, Cape Verd. But considered in itself, it is no inconsiderable line of travel; being more extensive than the usual southern tour of Europe.
But moreover, it affords a triumph to the learned, in that it confirms some points of fact, both of geography and natural history, which have appeared in ancient authors, but to which our own want of knowledge has denied credit. I allude more particularly to the course of the Niger, and the history of the Lotophagi. That the Greeks and Romans, who had formed great establishments in Africa, and the latter in particular, who had penetrated to the Niger[27] should have had better opportunities of knowing the interior part of the country, than we, who live at a distance from it, and possess only a few scattered factories near the sea coast, is not to be wondered at: but the proof of such facts should teach us to be less hasty in decrying the authority of ancient authors; since the fault may arise from a want of comprehension on our parts, or from an assumption of false principles on theirs.
Few geographical facts have been more questioned in modern times, than the course of the great inland river of Africa, generally understood by the name of Niger; some describing it to run to the west, others to the east; but of these opinions, I believe the former has been espoused by the most numerous party, by far.[28] Although Mr. Park’s authority, founded on ocular demonstration, sets this question for ever at rest, by determining the course of the river to be from west to east, as Major Houghton’s information had previously induced a belief of, yet it may not be amiss to trace the history of the opinions, concerning the course of this celebrated river, from the earliest date of profane history.
Herodotus,[29] more than twenty-two centuries ago, describes, from the information of the Africans, a great river of Africa, far removed to the south of the Great Desert, and abounding with crocodiles. That it flowed from west to east, dividing Africa, in like manner as the Danube does Europe. That the people from the borders of the Mediterranean, who made the discovery, were carried to a great city on the banks of the river in question; and that the people of this quarter were black; that is, much blacker than their visitors. Our author, indeed, took this river to be the remote branch of the Egyptian Nile, and reasons on the circumstance, accordingly: but even this argument serves to express in a more forcible manner, the supposed direction of its course.
Pliny also believed that the Nile came from the west; but he is far from identifying it with the Niger, which he describes as a distinct river. But we have at least his negative opinion respecting its western course; for he speaks of the Bambotus river as running into the Western ocean; meaning to express by it either the Gambia or Senegal river, and not the Niger.[30]
Ptolemy is positive in describing the Niger as a separate stream from the Senegal and Gambia, which two rivers are designed by him under the names of Daradus and Stachir; and they are by no means ill expressed; falling into the sea on different sides of the Arsinarium promontory, or Cape Verd.[31] The Niger of Ptolemy is made to extend from west to east, over half the breadth of Africa, between the Atlantic ocean, and the course of the Nile.
These may suffice for the ancient authorities, which in very early times fixed the course of the Niger in the systems of geography, to be from west to east. Who it was that first led the way, in the opposite opinion, I know not; but we find Edrisi, in the twelfth century, not only conducting the Nile of the Negroes, or Niger, westward, and into the Atlantic, but also deriving it from the Egyptian Nile; which is diametrically opposite to the opinion of Herodotus.
Such an opinion marks the very imperfect state of his knowledge of African geography; and should induce a degree of caution in receiving other opinions of the same author, where they rest absolutely on his own authority. It is very probable that the waters which collect on the west of Nubia, may run to the west, and be lost in lakes: and it is possible, though very improbable, that a branch of the Nile may take the same course: but fortified by the present state of our knowledge, we may certainly pronounce the general scope of the intelligence communicated by Edrisi, respecting the course of the Niger, to be erroneous.
I conceive, however, that his error may easily be accounted for, in this way. He was probably told, that the waters on the west of Nubia, &c. ran to the westward. He also knew that a great river (the Senegal) discharged itself into the Atlantic, nearly in the same parallel; and moreover, that a great river, whose line of direction lay between the east and west, and between Nubia and the just mentioned embouchure, watered a very extensive tract, in the midland part of Africa. Now, what so natural (admitting the fact of the western waters from Nubia, and which I trust, I shall go near to prove in the sequel) as to suppose, when he had found a head, and a tail of a great river, together with a long extent of course of a river between them, that they were parts of each other? It must also be taken into the account, that he supposed the continent of Africa to be about 1000 miles narrower than it really is, in the line between Nubia and the mouth of the Senegal.
Abulfeda followed Edrisi in the same opinion, respecting the Niger; which he calls a twin river with that of Egypt. He also calls it the Nile of Gana. Abulfeda also knew, and has described, the general form of the continent of Africa: and, of course knew that it was surrounded by the sea.[32] But his descriptions are limited to the north and north-east parts. He wrote in the fourteenth century.
It was Edrisi, probably, who influenced and determined the opinions of the moderns, respecting this question. An author, long supposed to be of the same region with that which he describes,[33] and who had entered more into the detail of the African geography, than any other, would, according to the usual mode of decision, on such pretensions, be preferred to those who went before him, and had treated the subject in a more general way. Mankind had no criterion by which to judge of the truth.
Since then the Arabian geographer, who had written the most extensively on the subject, had conducted the Niger into the Atlantic, we cannot wonder that the early Portuguese discoverers, who doubtless learnt from the Arabian authors the particulars of African geography, should adopt the same idea; and that they should regard the Senegal river as the Niger; as we find it, in the histories of their discoveries in the fifteenth century. The Portuguese, who at this period took the lead, in matters of navigation and discovery, might well be expected to set the fashion, in what related to African geography. So that in despite of Ptolemy, and of the ancients in general, the great inland river of Africa was described to run to the west; and to form the head of the Senegal river. Nay more, it was at last supposed to be the parent stock of all the great western rivers of Africa.
Sanuto, whose Geography of Africa, is dated 1588, describes one branch of the Niger to be the Rio Grande, the other the river of Sestos; regarding the Senegal as a different river.
M. Delisle’s map of Africa (1707) gives the Niger a direct course through Africa, from Bornou, in the east, and terminating in the river of Senegal on the west. But in his maps of 1722 and 1727, this was corrected: the source of the Senegal was placed at a shallow lake named Maberia, between the 14th and 15th degrees of longitude east of Cape Verd; and in latitude 12°; whilst the river of Tombuctoo, named Guien, was described to issue from another lake, in the same neighbourhood, and to flow towards Bornou, where it terminated in a third lake.
The cause of this change, may be easily traced, in the intelligence collected by the French traders and settlers in Gallam:[34] the substance of which is to be found in Labat’s collection, published in 1728; although the detail differs in some points. He says, Vol. ii. p. 161, et seq. that the Mandinga merchants report that the Niger (by which he always means the Senegal river) springs from the lake Maberia, whose situation could not be ascertained. That the Gambia river was a branch of the Niger; separating from it at Baracota (a position also unknown) and that it passed through a marshy lake, in its way to Baraconda; where the English and Portuguese had settlements. That the Niger, at a point below Baracota, sent forth another branch, namely the Falemé river; which encompassed the country of Bambouk, and afterwards joined the Niger in the country of Gallam. And finally, that the same Niger, by its separation into two branches, formed a very considerable island above Kasson. It may be remarked, that a belief of these circumstances, manifests a gross state of ignorance respecting the interior of the country; since such derivations from rivers, are found only in alluvial tracts: and it happens, that scarcely any levels vary more than those, through which the rivers in question pass; as will appear in the sequel.
They likewise report (p. 163) that on the east of the lake Maberia lies the kingdom of Guinbala; within which, is the river of Guien, which passes near the city of Tombuctoo. Again (Vol. iii. p. 361 to 364) it is said that Tombuctoo is not situated on the bank of the Niger, but at about 6 leagues inland from it: and that in passing to it, from Gallam (which is reported to be a journey of thirty-two days only), they go through Timbi, five journies short of Tombuctoo; where they leave the bank of the river, to avoid too great a detour.
Labat does not state in positive terms that the Niger or river of Senegal affords a continuous navigation, from the falls of Govinea (above Gallam) to Tombuctoo: but that he believed it, is strongly implied, by what appears afterwards, in p. 367, 368; that is, a project of a trade to Tombuctoo; “by keeping an establishment of vessels above the falls; which vessels might ascend the Niger to a point opposite to Tombuctoo, thereby saving the great expence and fatigue of a land journey.”
Here then, we trace the idea of the lake of Maberia, the supposed head of the Niger; and the river of Tombuctoo, under the name of Guien; and moreover, (although these are not expressly said to communicate) a continued navigation from Gallam to Tombuctoo. But it must surely have struck those on the spot, to inquire whether any boats ever descended from Tombuctoo to the falls of Govinea?
It is certain that Delisle, (as well as D’Anville, whose general ideas are much the same, in this particular[35]) regards the river Guien, as having no communication with the lake Maberia, but makes it flow from a different lake, at no great distance to the northward: so that these geographers so far understood the matter right; and denied the practicability of a continuous navigation to Tombuctoo: but then, they erred very greatly in placing the head of the Senegal, either so remotely, or in the eastern quarter; since it rises in the south-east.
We must regard the geography of M. D’Anville, as the most perfect of all, previous to the inquiries made by the African Association. The researches made under the direction of this Association, have already established on record, from the reports of Major Houghton, and of Mr. Magra, although in a vague way, the general position of the sources of the Joliba, or Niger, in or near the country of Manding; as well as its easterly or north-easterly course, towards Tombuctoo; the position of Bammakoo, situated near the highest navigable point of its course; of Sego, and Jenné, along its banks; the separation of its waters, into two channels, in the quarter of Tombuctoo; together with a vague idea of the position of that city itself. It will be shewn, in the sequel, that Mr. Park’s observations do not contradict, but establish these positions; drawing them out of the obscurity in which, by the very nature of the information, they were necessarily involved; and fixing, in some degree of just relative position and proportion, those particulars which before remained at large, considered in a geographical sense.
Concerning the errors of former geographers, they are more easily detected than the causes of them. They must, however, be ascribed, partly to the ignorance of the African merchants; but, in all probability, in a much greater part, to the want of understanding each other’s language; a defect that has led to many errors, that are oftentimes charged to the account of wilful falsehood, or, at least, to an indifference to the cause of truth.
I can easily conceive that the caravan merchants, in passing from Tombuctoo to Gallam (or the contrary), might have deceived themselves into a belief, that the principal rivers which they had either crossed or skirted in their way, might communicate with each other: for it appears clearly, by Mr. Park’s observations, that the eastern branch of the Senegal, and the western branch of the Joliba, approach very near to each other, in the early part of their courses; so that, during the whole journey, the merchants might never be farther distant from a river to the southward of them, than a few journies.
As to the story, so long credited, of the Niger being the parent river, from whence all the western rivers were derived, we may remark, that ignorance, in every country through which large rivers take their course, is very ready to derive them all from one source; and that source very probably, a lake. Within our own times, the Burrampooter and Ava rivers were thus described in the maps. Pliny reports, that the Euphrates and Tigris are united in Armenia, by the medium of a lake:[36] and Edrisi, as we have seen, derived the Nile and Niger, from one and the same lake.[37]
It will appear that the lake Maberia, taken by D’Anville and Delisle for the head of the Senegal river, or that which runs to the west, is meant for no other than the lake of Dibbie, formed by the river Joliba, or that which runs to the east, and which Mr. Park’s inquiries have brought to our knowledge. Again, we recognize the river Guien, or Guin, of Labat, of D’Anville, and of Delisle, in the northern branch of the same Joliba, issuing out of the lake Dibbie; and which, together with the southern branch from the same lake, forms an island, reported to be 90 or 100 miles in length, named Jinbala by Mr. Park. There is a town on the side of the northern branch, also named Jinbala; but whether the island may take its name from this town, or from the river, whose proper name, from about this point, seems to be Guin, or Jin, I know not. M. D’Anville has described, in this position, the country of Guinbala, subject to Tonka Quata: the same who is said by Labat to be sovereign of the country which contains the lake of Maberia, and the river of Guien.[38]
Here, then, we have an explication of the error of those, who, from the supposed information of the Mandinga merchants, supposed the lake Maberia (answering to the Dibbie of Park), to form the source of the Senegal river; and who took the river of Guin, or Jinbala, for a distinct river, instead of a branch, issuing from that lake. The Mandingas might very truly have informed the French settlers, that the lake Maberia, and the rivers Joliba and Guin would convey them to Tombuctoo; but did they say also, that the river of Senegal would convey them to the lake Maberia? The French merchants, perhaps, taking for granted that the navigation was continuous, might never inquire whether their informants were speaking of one or of two rivers: and the others might at the same time be speaking of two distinct rivers, and be ignorant of the prepossessions of their inquirers!
It may be added, that, whether from the difficulties that grew out of the subject, when the geographical documents came to be analyzed, or whether it was from actual information, both Delisle and D’Anville describe two lakes, near each other; one at the supposed head of the Senegal river, the other at that of the Tombuctoo river. I think it most probable, that it was occasioned by the want of their being made to comprehend, that the waters ran eastward to, and not westward from the lake Maberia; so that when they were told that the Tombuctoo river issued from a lake, they concluded it must be a different one from that at the head of the Senegal. Certain it is, however, that these geographers believed, that the waters ran to the west, from this lake.
I have now brought to a conclusion, what was meant to be said on the subject of the descriptions, and mistakes, of former geographers; in the course of which it may be observed, that a period of twenty-two centuries has brought matters round again to the same point. And having thus cleared the ground, I next proceed to the more important part of the subject, the proper discoveries of Mr. Park.
[26]I here use the word Niger, as being the best understood by Europeans; but the proper name of this river in the country seems to be Guin or Jin. (Hartmann’s Edrisi, p. 32. 48. 51.) At the same time, it is more commonly designed by the term Joliba, meaning the Great Water, or great river. In like manner, the Ganges has two names, Padda, the proper name; Gonga, the great river.
The Moors and Arabs call it Neel Abeed, the River of Slaves; but they have also a name to express the great water, that is, Neel Kibbeer. Neel appears to be employed in Africa, as Gonga in India, to express any great river.
By Niger, the ancients meant merely to express the River of the Black People, or Ethiopians. The term was Roman: for the Greeks believed it to be the head, or a branch, of the Egyptian Nile.
[27]Pliny, lib. v. c. 4.
[28]M. J. Lalande, almost at the moment of Mr. Park’s investigation, has determined its course to be to the west; notwithstanding the forcible reasoning of his countryman D’Anville. (Mémoire sur l’Intérieur de l’Afrique.) Mr. Bruce was of the same opinion. Vol. iii. p. 720. 724.
[29]Euterpe, c. 32.
[30]Lib. v. c. 9.
[31]Probably a corruption of Senhagi; or Assenhagi, as the early Portuguese discoverers write it. These were a great tribe.
[32]This was previous to the Portuguese discoveries.
[33]He was commonly called the Nubian Geographer.
[34]Gallam is one of the names of the country in which Fort St. Joseph is situated; and is often applied to the settlement itself.
[35]D’Anville differs from Delisle in extending very greatly, the distance between Gallam and Tombuctoo; and by representing the Maberia lake, as one source alone, and that the least distant, of those of the river Senegal.
[36]Pliny, lib. vi. c. 27.
[37]Thomson believed it. After speaking of the Nile, he says,—
His brother Niger too, and all the floods
In which the full-form’d maids of Afric lave
Their jetty limbs.
Summer, 811.
[38]Labat, Vol. ii. p. 161. 163. and iii, p. 361.
CHAPTER II.
Concerning the Geographical Discoveries of Mr. Park.
Since the scope and design of Mr. Park’s routes have been already set forth in the beginning of the present work, it would be useless to say more on that head; and as the particular map of his progress will explain the relative circumstances of the Geography, nothing more will be necessary, than to call the attention of the reader to such particulars as may not readily occur to him on inspection of the [Map;] or which, from their nature, cannot well be inserted in it.
The discoveries of this gentleman (as has been said before), give a new face to the physical geography of Western Africa. They prove, by the courses of the great rivers, and from other notices, that a belt of mountains, which extends from west to east, occupies the parallels between 10 and 11 degrees of north latitude, and at least between the 2d and 10th degrees of west longitude (from Greenwich). This belt, moreover, other authorities extend some degrees still farther to the west and south, in different branches, and apparently of less height. One of these, follows the upper part of the Gambia river; another the Rio Grande, to a low point of its course; and a third appears to shut up the western coast of Guinea.[39] Accordingly, this chain approaches much nearer to the equatorial parts of Africa, than was before supposed; and thus we are enabled to understand fully what Abulfeda[40] meant, when he said, that after the continent of Africa has extended southward[41] from the Strait of Gibraltar, to the neighbourhood of the Equator, it turns to the east, passing at the back of the mountains of Komri, which give rise to the Nile.[42] The mountains in question, then, ought to be those intended by Abulfeda; who by the name Komri, evidently meant to express the Mountains of the Moon; from which Ptolemy derives the remote source of the Nile.[43] As Abulfeda supposed the source of the Nile to be very far to the south or south-west (in which I agree generally with him), this chain may be supposed to pass onward from the abovementioned quarter, to the east, and south of east, shutting up Abyssinia on the south. This, at least, seems the only way in which we can fairly understand Abulfeda; in confirmation of whose description, a part of the ridge has been actually found by Mr. Park.[44] According to Leo (p. 249), the country of Melli is bordered on the south by mountains; and these must be nearly in the same parallel with the mountains of Kong, seen by Mr. Park.
Mr. Beaufoy was informed that the countries on the south and south-west of the Niger, lying opposite to, and to the westward of, Kassina, were also mountainous and woody. In particular in the line between Kassina and Assentai, the country is said to be formed of a succession of hills, with woods of vast extent, and some mountains of a stupendous height.[45]
As the source of the Nile is confessedly very far to the south of the parallel of 10 degrees north, this chain of mountains, admitting it to continue its general easterly course, must bend to the southward, after it passes Kong and Melli, in order to pass above the sources of the Nile; the principal of which I conceive to be situated in the country of Darfoor.
The highest part of the portion of this chain, pointed out by Mr. Park’s discoveries, is situated between the 5th and 9th degrees of west longitude; for within this space are situated the sources of the Gambia, which run to the west-north-west; of the Senegal, running to the north-west; and of the Joliba (or Niger) to the east-north-east.[46] There is, however, a general slope of the country, extending to a great distance northward, formed by a gradation of summits of lesser mountains and hills, as is shewn by the early part of the courses of the rivers; in particular, that of the Niger, which appears to run near 100 miles on a northerly course, before it turns finally to the eastward.
A large portion of the tract bordering on the northern foot of the mountains, from whence the branches of the Senegal river issue, is covered with thick forests. Mr. Park’s track on his return lay through these woods; one part of which is named the Jallonka Wilderness, in which no habitations were seen during five days of forced marching. The hardships endured, even by the free men of this caravan, almost exceed belief.[47]
The head of the principal branch of the Senegal river is about 80 geographical miles to the west of that of the Joliba; and the head of the Gambia, is again, about 100 west of the Senegal. The branches of the latter are very numerous, and intersect the country for about 200 miles from east to west, in the line of the caravan route: and it was this circumstance that detained Mr. Park, during a great part of the periodical rainy season, in Manding; a state of things, perhaps little expected, in a country regarded here, as the most thirsty on the globe.[48]
We may conclude that similar circumstances take place, with respect to the Joliba; only that as its course is such as to intercept all the streams that descend from the Kong mountains on the south, whilst Mr. Park’s travels along it, were confined to the northern bank, he had no opportunity of knowing it, any farther than by seeing various openings on that side; and by being told that he could not possibly make his way there. No doubt, it receives some large streams also, when its course diverges far enough from the mountains as to allow the waters room to collect.
At the lowest point to which Mr. Park traced it, and which (although about 420 British miles in direct distance from its source) could only be reckoned the early part of its course, it was a very considerable body of water; the largest, he says, that he had seen (in Africa,) and it abounded with crocodiles. The rainy season was but just begun; and the river might have been forded at Sego, where its bed expands to a vast breadth. Still, however, we must not estimate the bulk of the Niger, that Niger which was in the contemplation of Pliny and the Romans, by the measure of its bulk at Sego, and Silla.[49] If we suppose it to be the same river which passes by Kassina (and we know of no other), which place is 700 miles, or more, to the eastward of Silla, it would doubtless receive by the way great additional supplies of water, and be at least a much deeper river than where Mr. Park saw it. And here it may not be amiss to remark, for the use of those who are not conversant with the subject, that rivers make the greatest display of their waters, in proportion to their bulk, at a moderate distance from their sources; and are often wider above, than below.[50]
There can be no doubt but that the Joliba, is a noble stream; and the prince of the western rivers of Africa, as the Nile of the eastern: but the African rivers, however, rank lower than those of Asia and America.
Mr. Park judged that the Senegal river below the falls of F’low, or Félou (as Labat writes it), was about the bulk of the Tweed at Melross, in summer. This was indeed, in the dry season; but as the river does not begin to swell periodically till many months after that, Mr. Park, did not of course see it, at its lowest pitch. And yet this was the assemblage of all the principal branches of the river, save the Falemé, which was itself about three feet deep at the same season. But the Senegal is even fordable in some places below the conflux of the Falemé, according to Labat:[51] for the Moors cross it in the dry season, and commit depredations on some of the lands to the south. However, almost the whole of the towns and villages are placed on the south side, with a view of being in security for the longest possible term.
The Senegal river then, is by no means a very capital stream, except in the rainy season; when, like all the other tropical rivers, its bed is filled, and very commonly will not contain the additional waters. Mr. Park observed by the mark of the highest point of swelling of the river Kokoro (or eastern branch of the Senegal), that it had been twenty feet higher than when he crossed it, in the line of the southern route. The main branch of this river, the Ba-fing, or Black River, was not fordable, and was crossed over a temporary bridge of a very singular construction. Alligators, or crocodiles are found in all these branches, at the height at which Mr. Park passed them.
The Falemé river has also a remote source, and drains a great extent of country.
Concerning the Gambia Mr. Park had fewer notices. It is remarkable that the position pointed out to him for the source of this river, agrees very nearly with that found in Dr. Wadstrom’s map; from notices collected from another quarter. This is very satisfactory. I learn also from Dr. Afzelius that the distance across, between the approximating parts of the courses of the Gambia and Rio Grande, is four journies.
Mr. Park crossed in his way, six different streams that fall into the Gambia from the north-east. Amongst these the principal one is the Nerico, which flows from the quarter of Bondou; and is reckoned the eastern boundary of a tract which the Africans of this region style the Country of the West, expressed by that of the setting sun. This tract is on a lower level than that to the east; is flat, and the soil composed of clay and sand. It appears that the whole tract through which Mr. Park returned is covered with wood, cleared only in certain inhabited spots (Numidian fashion): of which, the great tract, named the Jallonka Wilderness, is composed of primeval forests.[52]
The Bambara and Kaarta countries are also exceedingly woody, but less so than the other tract; and the woods are of an inferior growth.
According to the ideas collected from Mr. Park’s observations, the general levels of the countries, near the sources of the great rivers are thus distributed:
Between the countries of Bondou and Neola on the west, Bambara and Kaarta on the east, the country forms a very elevated level, falling rapidly to the eastward; but only by degrees, to the westward: and narrowing in breadth, from 330 miles in the south (in the line between Bambara and Neola) to the narrow space of 60 or 70 in the north, between Kaarta and Kajaaga; and probably diminishing to nothing, as it advances into the Great Desert; thus forming a great triangular space, whose vertex is on the north of the little kingdom of Kasson. This vast upland tract is divided into other degrees of level, of which the highest comprizes the eastern and largest part of the whole. The eastern boundary of this particular level, is, of course, that of the upper level, generally, in the part where it overlooks Kaarta and Bambara: and its termination, in the opposite quarter, is at a great descent, west of the principal branch of the Senegal river, in Woradoo; from which place, the edge of it may be conceived to run northward, to join another descent of the same kind, which forms the falls of Govinea, over which the great body of the Senegal river is precipitated, from this upper level, to the intermediate one.
The upper level contains the political divisions of Manding, Jallonkadu, Fooladu, Kasson, Gadou, and some other smaller states. And the second, or intermediate level, contains Bambouk, Konkadoo, Satadoo, Dentila, and some others; and is bounded on the south-west, by the great slope of country at Kirwanney, where the waters first begin to flow towards the west. On the north-west it is bounded by the great descent which forms the second or lower fall of the Senegal river, named F’low. This fall is about 30 miles below Govinea, 48 above Fort St. Joseph: and here the river being arrived at the lowest level of the country, continues navigable with little interruption to the sea.[53] The Falemé river of course, must run on a far lower level than the other heads of the Senegal river.
The Gambia has a small impediment to its navigation at Baraconda, in the country of Woolli; but although this is usually termed a fall, Mr. Park was informed that it did not impede the passage of canoes: so that it ought more properly to be termed a rapide, according to the American phrase; that is to say, a slope, down which the water runs, with more than ordinary rapidity, but which does not, however, totally impede the passage of canoes, or small boats.
The Joliba (Niger) descends from the high level of Manding, into Bambara, on the eastward, with a rapid and furious course, at Bammakoo, about 150 miles below its source; after which it glides smoothly along, and affords an uninterrupted navigation to Houssa, and probably by Kassina to Wangarah; by the two first of which places, a very large and navigable stream does certainly pass, under the same name as is applied by the Arabs and Moors to the Joliba, that is, Neel Abeed, or River of Slaves: a name that marks the idea of the people of the country through which it flows, in the minds of those people.
Mr. Watt was informed, when at Teembo, the capital of the Foulah kingdom, in 1794, that in the way from thence to Tombuctoo, (concerning which his inquiries were pointed) a part of the road, lay along the side of a Great Water, to which they came in about thirty days from Teembo. There can be no question but that the Great Water was the Joliba river; whose very name, as we have said, in the Manding language literally imports the same meaning: or more properly, the Great River. Some have concluded that the Foulahs intended by it a great inland sea; but this is highly improbable, although there are, no doubt, such in other quarters of Africa, which serve as receptacles for those rivers which do not reach the sea. But, in the present case, the distance itself points to the Joliba; for, a month’s journey from Teembo, would reach beyond Yamina, but fall short of Sego: and we are told from the same authority, that in order to go to Tombuctoo, they pass through the countries of Beliah, Bowriah, Manda, Sego, &c. Beliah, we know not the situation of, but may conceive it to lie on the north-east, or east-north-east of Teembo; because Mr. Park points out Bowriah, under the name of Boori, adjacent to Manding, which is obviously recognized in the Manda of Mr. Watt: and Sego, there can be no doubt about. What is farther said concerning the great breadth of the water, may either apply to the lake Dibbie, or may be African hyperbole. The sense appears clear enough.
I have extracted in a note, the intelligence concerning the Great Water: and also that, concerning the Nyalas. Mr. Park has also heard of the Nyalas, or Gaungays, but is clearly of opinion that the interpreter of Mr. Watt, either misunderstood the story, or was himself misinformed.[54]
[39]Meaning Serra Leona, &c. &c.
[40]Prolegomena.
[41]Abulfeda in effect, literally meant southward; for, like Ptolemy, and Strabo, he had no idea that the coast of Africa projected to the westward, beyond the Straits, but rather supposed it to trend to the eastward of south.
[42]When the above is considered, we can understand that Abulfeda supposed the bays of Benin and St. Thomas to be 11 or 12 degrees more to the east, than they really are; and he might well suppose that “the sea came in at the back of the mountains that gave rise to the Nile.”
That the Nile of Egypt, and not the Niger, is meant, we learn in another place in the same author, where he speaks of the Egyptian Nile, and traces it to Egypt. Prolegomena, article Rivers.
[43]Komri, or rather Kummeree, is the Arabic term for lunar; and is the adjective of Kummer, the moon. [Mr. Hastings.]
[44]The mountains of Kong were seen by Mr. Park; but no other part of the chain.
[45]African Association, 1790, and 1791, quarto ed. p. 117. 123; octavo, 176. 186. Also quarto, 174; octavo, 260.
As two editions of this work are in the hands of the public, I have referred to both throughout this work; distinguishing them respectively by Q and O.
[46]The Rio Grande has its source very far to the south of this chain; first running to the north, till it touches the foot of this very ridge of mountains, by which it is turned to the west. [Vide Mr. Watt’s Plan and Journal.]
[47]The caravan in question was composed chiefly of slaves going from Manding to the ports of the Gambia.
[48]There is in Africa, a rainy season; and also a periodical change of wind, as in the same latitudes in India: in effect, a Monsoon.
[49]It may be conceived that the Romans, who, according to Pliny, (lib. v. 4.), held the dominion of the countries as far as the Niger, penetrated to it by the route of Gadamis, Fezzan, Taboo, and Kassina, as the most direct, and convenient one, from the Mediterranean. There are very clear proofs of the conquest of the three former by Balbus. (Pliny, lib. v. 5.) It was known to Pliny that the Niger swelled periodically like the Nile, and at the same season; which we have also in proof from Major Houghton’s Report; and from Mr. Park’s Observations. Pliny says, moreover, that its productions were the same with those of the Nile. (Lib. v. c. 8.)
[50]In the Proceedings of the African Association, (Q p. 122; O. 183, et seq.) the river of Kassina is described to run to the west, and to pass on to Tombuctoo; where it is said to be named Gnewa; possibly intended for Joliba, for the n and l are more commonly interchanged than the m and n.[a] It will very probably turn out that there is an error in the above statement, and that it runs from W to E in the country of Kassina as well as at Tombuctoo. It would seem also to be a larger river in the east, than in the west; a presumption in favour of an easterly course. But perhaps, the best argument is, that it certainly runs from Tombuctoo to the east. It must then either be one and the same river, or there must be a receptacle common to both, lying between Tombuctoo and Kassina! and we have not heard of any such. Much more will be said concerning this subject, in the latter part of the Memoir.
[a]Abderachman Aga calls it Gülbi; (or Julbee). Hartmann’s Edrisi, quarto ed. p. 22.
It is incumbent on me to acknowledge the obligations I owe to M. Hartmann, for his arrangement of the matter of Edrisi’s Africa; and for his invaluable Elucidations, and Notes.
[51]See Labat, Vol. ii. p. 172, where the impediments to the navigation are described. They do not appear to arise from differences in the general level, but to a ledge of rocks.
[52]Thomson seems to have understood this, when he says,
beneath primeval trees, that cast
Their ample shade o’er Niger’s yellow stream.
Summer, v. 705.
[53]Labat, Vol. ii. p. 172. See his description of the navigation.
[54]“I had a good deal of conversation with some men of a particular tribe of Mandingas called Nyalas. These are great travellers, and much respected by all the nations of Africa. It is from this nation that all the Gaungays or workers in leather, come; and they are likewise employed as the speakers on all embassies: as they are not only good orators, but are so far privileged, that no one, not even kings, can take offence at any thing they say. Any one who travels with them, is sure of being protected; and, to use their own terms, they can pass between contending armies, who will defer the battle till they have passed. I inquired about Tombuctoo,” &c.—One of them said, that “about a month’s journey beyond Teembo, we should come to a large Water, which our eyes would not be able to reach across; but which to the taste was sweet and good; that we should then coast along, touching at different towns for refreshment; but that there was one country inhabited by bad people, who would rob and murder us, if they could; where we should not stop, but keep far out, at a distance from the shore;” &c. They engaged to carry him thither for the price of four slaves. [Watt’s Journal, MS. p. 181.]
CHAPTER III.
Construction of the Geography of Mr. Park’s Expedition into Africa.
I next proceed to the detail of Mr. Park’s geographical materials. Should it be objected that I have been too diffuse and particular, in this part, I can only say, that since the information itself could not, from its nature be correct, it became the more necessary to investigate it closely, and also to place, not only the result but the detail of the investigation, together with the original documents themselves, in the form of notes, in the hands of the public, that the true grounds of the construction, might be known. For whether it may happen, that no further lights should ever be obtained, concerning the subject; or whether some other traveller, more fortunate (for he cannot possess more zeal, enterprize, temper, or firmness) should complete Mr. Park’s work; in either case, the original documents, as well as the mode of working them up, should be recorded; in the former, that we may know how to appreciate them; in the latter, how best to improve them. The successor of Mr. Park, cannot have too extensive a knowledge of the detail of his predecessor’s work; in order that he may know what parts require correction; and how to avoid delays, from a useless attention to objects, that are already attained.
Two new Maps have been constructed for the occasion. The [one] contains the Progress of Discovery and Improvement in various parts of North Africa; the [other,] the Geography of Mr. Park’s Expedition, as well as the result of his particular inquiries in the same quarter; on a more extended scale. The present remarks and discussions refer particularly to the latter.
In the construction of this map, it is first required to state those points, on which Mr. Park’s outset depends; as also those which affect the position of Fort St. Joseph, near to which he passed; as they differ from the maps in present use. And, as some positions in the journey of Mess. Watt and Winterbottom, serve very much to aid the improvement of the geography, it will be proper to speak of them also.
Cape Verd, and Fort St. Louis, at the mouth of the Senegal river, are placed according to the observations and results of M. Fleurieu.[55]
Jillifrey, on the Gambia river is, from the mean of the longitudes set forth by D’Anville, D’Apres, and Woodville, and which do not differ amongst themselves, more than 4½ minutes.[56]
The detail of the coasts, as well as the lower parts of the rivers between Cape Verd, and Cape Verga, are also from the charts of M. Woodville. That part between Cape Verd and latitude 18°, is adjusted to M. Fleurieu’s result of longitude, whilst the particulars are from D’Anville and Woodville.
The course of the Rio Grande from the sea to the break near the river Dunso, is from Dr. Wadstrom’s map. The Dunso river, crossed by Mr. Watt, appears evidently to be a continuation of the same river; several branches of which flow from the south-east. And the high tract of mountainous land beyond it, is no doubt a branch of the great ridge above commemorated, under the name of Komri, in the work of Abulfeda.
The route of Mr. Watt is described from a sketch communicated by the late Mr. Beaufoy,[57] in which the scale appears, on a reference to the original journal, to be intended for British miles. I have regarded them accordingly; whence Laby and Teembo are placed much nearer to the coast, than Dr. Wadstrom’s map represents: for it appears by the Journal, that Kissey, at the head of the river of the same name, is no more than eight journies from Teembo. Nor has the map more than 120 geographic miles between them, admitting the scale to be British miles, as I have concluded.[58]
The nearest point in Mr. Park’s route falls at 112 G. miles to the northward of the extreme point of Mr. Watt’s; and the river Gambia lay nearly midway between them. Thus, the map of Mr. Watt forms a most useful point of comparison; and adds confirmation to the report of the natives, respecting the course of the Gambia; for Mr. Park was told, that it was crossed in the way from the Falemé river, to Foota Jallo, of which Teembo is the capital.
Pisania, on the Gambia (called also Kuttijar Factory), the place of Mr. Park’s outset[59] is stated by D’Anville to be 170 G. miles above Jillifrey, by the difference of longitude; but by M. Woodville’s map, no more than 156; which answers better to the statement of the land journey; for Mr. Park was told that it was no more than 6½ journies of a messenger.[60]
Pisania then, is placed in longitude 13° 28′, according to this result; and in latitude 13° 35′ north, according to Mr. Park’s observation, by sextant.
The causes of the apparent wanderings of Mr. Park having been explained in the former part of this work, it will be no farther necessary to trace his course, than merely to explain the connection of the different parts of the data for the general construction.
Since the scale of the Map is fixed by the computed distances arising on the intervals of time employed in Mr. Park’s route, it is possible that some readers may be startled at the idea of following such an apparently vague authority. Those, however, who have been much in the habit of observing their rate of travelling, will be easily convinced that distances may be approximated; and those in particular who have been much accustomed to travel in countries, where time regulates the distance; or who have been in habits of working up geographical materials of this kind, will be the most easily convinced. It will of course be understood, that calculations of this kind can only be received from persons of judgment and experience: and also, that when opportunities of checking them, occur, they are always resorted to; after which, of course, no alternative remains, but to adopt the corrected distance.
In the present case, the rate of travelling of camels,[61] does not apply; as Mr. Park’s journey outwards was made on horseback, and his return chiefly on foot. Nor are camels, indeed, in use in that line of route. The checks to be employed, are the number of journies reported by the travelling merchants, from different points of Mr. Park’s route to Sego and Tombuctoo; and also those from the quarters of Morocco, Tunis, and Fezzan, to Tombuctoo; using as a scale, the rate arising on the route between Fezzan and Egypt, Morocco and Jarra, as the best known lines of distance. These, altogether, furnish such kind of authority as will, I trust, lead to a satisfactory conclusion; as the general coincidence is certainly very striking.
My mode of procedure has been, to calculate, in the first instance, Mr. Park’s bearings and distances, and then to correct the bearings by his observed latitudes, as far as these extend: and beyond that, I have taken his bearing by compass, and allowed the supposed quantity of variation.
The result of these calculations, together with the addition of his line of distance from Sego to Tombuctoo, was then compared with the popular report of the distance between the several stations of Woolli, Fort St. Joseph, Bambouk, and Tombuctoo. It was found that these reports did not materially differ from the aggregate distance given by Mr. Park; although they fell short of it; a difference which might naturally have been expected, and which I have ventured to alter. The difference, however, does not exceed twenty-four geographic miles; a mere trifle in African geography. The position of Tombuctoo, so obtained, differs only half a degree in latitude, and still less in longitude, from that arising from the intersection of the lines of distance from Morocco on the NW, and Fezzan on the NE: of which a particular account will be given in the sequel.
A great part of Mr. Park’s geographical memorandums are totally lost: but fortunately his bearings by compass during a great part of the way, are preserved. In other parts, he has preserved only the calculation of latitude and longitude, arising from them; which, however, of course furnish the means of obtaining the bearings, if necessary. As he omitted to take observations to determine the quantity of the variation of the compass, after he lost the means of correcting his course by observations of latitude, which was at Jarra, about midway in his route:[62] it becomes a question of some importance, what quantity to allow on those long lines of distance between Jarra and Silla; Silla and Manding.
It appears on inquiry, that the quantity of variation is no more known, any where within the continent of Africa, than within that of New Holland. And it happens moreover, that the lines of equal quantities of variation, do not run across Africa with that degree of regularity and parallelism, which takes place over great part of the Atlantic and Indian oceans (at least this is what appears clearly to my judgment): so that it became necessary to inquire, what quantity prevails in the surrounding seas; and what the general direction, as well as the particular nature, and tendency, of the curves, of the lines of equal quantities?
The variation lines on the globe have occupied a good deal of my attention at different periods of my life, and therefore the application of such new observations as the assiduity and kindness of my friends had procured for me on this occasion, was less difficult, than if the subject had been new to me. A dissertation on the subject, would be out of place here; and therefore I shall only give the result of my inquiries, in abstract; after premising, that the theoretical part belonging to the interior of Africa, is founded on a supposed continuation of those lines of equal quantities, whose tendency has been already ascertained, in the surrounding seas. I am perfectly aware, that some may regard the assumption as too great: but they will no doubt admit, at the same time, that it is difficult to conceive a more probable arrangement: and what is much more to the purpose, is, that if we are compelled to abandon the system, in the gross, the quantity of variation in the line of Mr. Park’s travels, cannot be greatly different from what we have assumed. For, whether the line of 18° in the south Atlantic, be a continuation of that in the north Atlantic, or of that in the Indian sea, much the same result will follow: only that in the former case, the quantity will be somewhat greater.
Chart of the Lines of Magnetic Variation, in the Seas around Africa.
Published by James Rennell May 18th. 1798.
It would appear, that between the East Indies and South America, Europe and South Africa, there are four distinct sets of what may be termed concentric curves of variation lines, on the globe, and whose highest points of convexity are opposed to each other, within the great body of Northern Africa. The accompanying sketch will best explain it.[63] It would appear moreover, that from the place of opposition of these curves, in Africa, where the quantity of variation is 18°, it decreases with great rapidity, and finally to nothing, in going eastwards to India, or south-westward to south America: and that from the same point, it increases, in going NNW, towards Ireland, or to the opposite quarter, towards the coast of Caffraria. But the change is not in any proportion so rapid in the increase, in going north or south, as in the decrease, in going east or west. Such are the outlines of this system; by which, if a person was to set out from Cape Verd, or Cape Blanco, to traverse Africa from WSW to ENE, to Upper or Lower Egypt, he would find at setting out, from 15½ to 16½ degrees of westerly variation, which would increase to 18° about the centre of the continent, and afterwards decrease to a less quantity than at his setting out. Mr. Park’s travels being comprized between Cape Verd and the centre of Africa, will therefore be in the quarter that has from 16 to 18 degrees; and the part more particularly, where, from the want of observations of latitude, we must depend on his compass bearings, nearer 18° than 17°.[64] I shall now proceed to the detail of Mr. Park’s materials.
Leaving Pisania, Mr. Park proceeded eastward to Medina,[65] the capital of Woolli; and thence to the ENE, through the countries of Bondou, Kajaaga, and Kasson; the two latter of which are separated by the river of Senegal.
In his way, he took observations of latitude at Kolor, Koorkoorany, and Joag, on this side the river: by which means we are enabled to correct the parallels. The distance at present is left as it stands in the Journal, with a view of correcting it afterwards. The result of these bearings and distances (the particulars of which appear below),[66] places Joag at 247 miles east of Pisania; and the latitude, by two different observations, was found to be 14° 25′.[67]
At Joag Mr. Park was informed that Dramanet, which is about 2½ miles to the eastward of Fort St. Joseph, was 10 miles to the westward of him. That fort is said to be in 14° 34′, or 9 min. north of Joag; so that it ought to lie to the north-west, rather than to the west: and accordingly, there is found, in the map in Labat,[68] a place named Gacouva, no doubt meant for Joag, on the SE of St. Joseph; and in point of distance answering to it. Other places in the same map of Labat, are also recognized in the route of Mr. Park; so that the connection between it and the French settlement on the Senegal, is very clearly made out; which is a circumstance of some importance in this geography.
It will appear that the reckoning kept by Mr. Park gave 89 min. difference of latitude between Pisania and Joag, whilst the observation gave 50 only. About 9 minutes may be placed to the account of excess of distance, and 30 will then remain, on the whole distance of 253 geographic miles. In other words, the dead reckoning, corrected by allowing 17 degrees of westerly variation, gave a course of E 20°½ N; which, however, by the observations of latitude, is shewn to be E 11°¼ N (or E by N) making a difference of 9¼ degrees. But this I regard as coming very near, considering the circumstances under which the reckoning was kept.
From Joag we accompany Mr. Park to Kooniakarry and Jarra. The reckoning between the two first gives about 23¼ min. difference of latitude, 55 of easting.[69] And hence the latitude of Kooniakarry will be 14° 48′ by account; but the observation taken at Jumbo, in its neighbourhood, giving only 14° 34′, the account is 14 to the north; equal to about a point and quarter in bearing. The same mode of correction has been applied here, as in the former part of the route; that is, the whole distance has been (for the present) allowed; with the difference of latitude by observation; and hence Kooniakarry will fall 59½ geographic miles to the east of Joag.
The route from Kooniakarry to Jarra[70] may be divided into two parts; first, to Feesurah, a place of observation, south-eastward; and secondly, to Jarra, north-eastward.
The account to Feesurah agrees very nearly with the bearings and distance. The latitude by observation was 14° 5′, and the easting from Kooniakarry, corrected, 47 miles. Then, to Jarra, the account also agrees very nearly; the latitude was 15° 5′, that is, just one degree north of Feesurah; and the easting from thence 33 miles.
The aggregate of easting, between Joag and Jarra, is then 139½ miles.[71]
It may be observed, that throughout this journey, generally, the reckoning has been to the northward of the observations; and that, by about ten degrees on the whole traverse, when 17 degrees of variation have been allowed. It will hardly be supposed that the difference arises from allowing too much variation by ten degrees; but it is singular, that the error should, in all cases but one, lie the same way. I do not by any means regard the error as considerable, circumstances considered:[72] nor is it of any consequence in the parts where the observations of latitude serve to correct it: as between Pisania and Jarra.
Mr. Park was plundered of his sextant at Jarra, which accident of course put an end to his observations of latitude; and thus, unfortunately, left the remaining half (very nearly) of his geography in a state of uncertainty, as to parallel. This point, therefore, must be regarded as the most advanced geographical station, that rests on any certain basis of parallel. However, the remaining part of the route will not appear to be much out, when it is seen how nearly the bearing of Sego, as determined by Mr. Park, agreed with the line of direction pointed out from Jarra.
It is, no doubt, a favourable circumstance, that the instrument was not lost at an earlier period, and before the commencement of the intricate route between the pass of the Senegal river and Jarra; to which may be added, the advantage of a known parallel, from whence to set off the very important bearing of Tombuctoo. In effect, the bearing was pointed out from Benowm, but this place being nearly east from Jarra, and the bearing in question E ½ N, no error of any magnitude can be looked for.
Jarra (called also Yarra), has already appeared in the Maps drawn for the Association, and was originally taken from M. Delisle’s Map; but was neglected, or overlooked, by M. D’Anville. In the former Map it was placed somewhat more to the west, and in a higher parallel by about ¼ of a degree.
Between Jarra and Wassiboo, Mr. Park’s reckoning, as it appears wrought up in his table of day’s works, gives 41 min. diff. of latitude N, and 1° 31′ diff. longitude E; which reduced to departure, in miles, is 89, and produces a course of E 26° S. But he allowed no variation after he left Jarra: and as I allow 17°, the course must be taken at E 9° S, distance 96½ geographic miles. From this arises a diff. lat. of 16′ only; departure 95: and, hence, Wassiboo should be in latitude 14° 49′, and 95 east of Jarra.[73]
Mr. Park was so lucky as to preserve his original bearings,[74] between Wassiboo, and Diggani (a place about 15′ short of Sego); and these alone, out of all that were taken during the route. These give a course of E 27°½ S, 174 geographical miles; so that when 17° of variation are allowed, the true course will be E 10½ S; the diff. lat. 31,7; departure 171,1; whence Diggani should be in lat. 14° 17′, and 266,1 east of Jarra.
Between Diggani and Sego (returning again to the table of latitude and longitude), Mr. Park’s account gives E 43 S 15′; or corrected E 26 S, which gives diff. lat. 6,6; departure 13,5: so that Sego, the capital town of Bambara, falls, by this account, in lat. 14° 10′ 30″ and 279,6 east of Jarra.[75]
In this position, it bears E 10½ S from Jarra, distant 284 geographical miles. It is important to mention, that whilst at Jarra, the bearing of Sego was pointed out to Mr. Park by compass, ESE, or E 22°½ S. His route made it E 27°½ S, or 5° more to the south. This difference, so trifling in a distance of about 330 of our miles, on a straight line (in other words, the distance from London to Edinburgh), is not worth investigating. If we could suppose the report of the natives to be true, it would place Sego nearly 25 minutes more to the north. For my own part, I do not believe that any person, from mere judgment, unassisted by geographical records, and so far removed as to be out of the hearing of cannon, and of the view of conflagrations (two circumstances that aid the most in fixing the line of direction between distant places), could ever come nearer than several degrees of the bearing of two places that are 330 British miles asunder.[76]
Having at length reached the banks of the long sought for river Niger (or Joliba), near which the city of Tombuctoo stands, Mr. Park proceeded along it several days’ journey, towards the city in question, on a course E 15½ N by compass, but corrected E 32½ N 70 G. miles; which giving a diff. lat. of 37½, departure 59, places Silla, the extreme point of his expedition, in latitude 14° 48′; and longitude by reckoning 0° 59′ west of Greenwich; but, as will be hereafter shewn, when corrected, 1° 24′ west. Here, then, terminates his journey eastward, at a point somewhat more than 16 degrees east of Cape Verd, and precisely in the same parallel. The line of distance arising from this difference of longitude is about 941 G. miles, or 1090 British, within the western extremity of Africa; a point which, although short by 200 miles of the desired station, Tombuctoo, the attainment of which would unquestionably have been attended with great eclat, was yet far beyond what any other European, whose travels have been communicated to the European world, had ever reached.[77]
[55]That is, Cape Verd in latitude 14° 48′, longitude 17° 34′ west of Greenwich: St. Louis in latitude 16° 5′ (by D’Anville), longitude 16° 8′ by Fleurieu.
| D’Anville | 16° | 9′ | 30″ | ⎫ ⎬ ⎭ | Mean, 16° 7′ |
| D’Apres | 16 | 5 | 0 | ||
| Woodville | 16 | 8 | 3 | ||
| Latitude 13° 16′ | |||||
[57]The public cannot but recollect the obligations due to this gentleman, on the score of his persevering industry, and laudable zeal, in the work of extending our knowledge of the interior parts of Africa. Accordingly his loss to society, in this department, is likely to be felt for some time, if not for ever: the researches in Africa being a path of his own choosing; a path which, more than any other person, he had contributed to open, and to render smooth; and in which he seemed destined to succeed!
[58]Dr. Afzelius supposes that the town of Kissey may be, in direct distance, about 36 geographical miles to the north-east by east of Serra Leona. Hence, Teembo should be no more than 156 from Serra Leona. On the general map it is 170. I have adhered to the bearing lines on Mr. Watt’s map; but think it probable that Teembo, and the whole route may be more to the south.
[59]This is the residence of Dr. Laidley, a gentleman to whom Mr. Park and the Association are under great obligations. He received Mr. Park into his house, and treated him more like a child of the family than a stranger. He cured Mr. Park of a serious illness, which confined him for many weeks: and when Mr. Park was disappointed of the goods necessary for his expences, which were to have been sent out with Consul Willis, the Doctor supplied him with every possible necessary, he had occasion for; taking his bills upon the Association for the amount.
[60]A journey of an ordinary traveller may be taken at about 17 geographical miles in direct distance; that of messengers in India, is equal to about 25, or 100 English miles by the road, in three days.
[61]See Phil. Trans. for 1791.
[62]The places of observation are marked on the Map by asterisks.
[63]This sketch is not pretended to be minutely accurate; it being morally impossible to procure recent observations in every part, from the rapid change that takes place in the quantity of the variation, in one and the same spot. However, the observations that determine the course of the lines in the Atlantic (and which are marked on the sketch) are from observations so late as 1793. The same is to be said of those in the western quarter of the Mediterranean; and those beyond the Cape of Good Hope, to longitude 30° east, are of the year 1789.
It is obvious that a critical knowledge of the quantity of the variation in any particular place, and at a given time, is of less importance to the present question, than that of the bearing of the lines of equal quantities, at any recent period: and this object is, I think, tolerably well obtained, by the materials before me. Any change that may have taken place since 1793, is in favour of a greater quantity of variation, within the limits of Mr. Park’s travels.
In the Atlantic, the increase appears to be about a degree in seven years. In the Indian ocean, less: and in the Red Sea, there seems to have been little alteration between 1762, and 1776.
The lines, as far as they are founded on authority, are continuous; but broken in the parts assumed.
[64]It is in proof of the existence of this quantity of variation, that, on closing Mr. Park’s route at Woolli, there appeared to be only a small deficiency of distance on the Map, when 17° variation were allowed. Had the quantity allowed been less, this ought not to have happened, as Jarra is placed according to its latitude.
[65]Major Houghton’s point of outset in 1791 was Medina. His route falls into that of Mr. Park at several points, and finally branches off from it about 30 miles short of the Falemé river, which the Major crossed at Calcullo, near 20 miles higher up than Naye, where Mr. Park crossed it.
| Hours | G. Miles direct. | Bearings by compass. | Country | Lat. by obs. | REMARKS. | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Pisania | ⎫ ⎬ ⎭ | 13° 35′ | ||||||
| to | 6 | 16 | SE by E | Yani | On these bearings 17°westerly variation were allowed. The diff. lat. was then 89;departure easterly 237. But the diff. lat. by obs. being only 50,the course should be E. 11¼ N. instead of E. 20½, as before; andthe departure 247. But I have finally corrected the easting, byreducing it 24 miles, or to 223. | |||
| Jindey | ||||||||
| Kootacunda | 5 | 13 | E | ⎫ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎬ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎭ | Woolli | |||
| Tabajang | 2½ | 6 | E ½ N | |||||
| Medina | 5¼ | 15 | ditto | |||||
| Konjour | 3 | 8 | E ½ S | |||||
| Mallaing | 2 | 6 | E by S | |||||
| Kolor | 5 | 12 | ENE | 13° 49′ | ||||
| Tambacunda | 5¼ | 14 | SE by E | |||||
| Kooniakarry | 5 | 13 | E by N | |||||
| Koojar | 3 | 9 | E ½ N | |||||
| At a well | 13 | 34 | E by N | Woods | ||||
| Tallica | 4 | 10 | E | ⎫ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎬ ⎪ ⎪ ⎪ ⎭ | Bondou | |||
| Ganada | 4 | 10 | E ½ N | |||||
| Koorkoorany | 4½ | 12 | ESE | 13° 53′ | ||||
| Dooggi | 1 | 3 | E by N | |||||
| Buggil | 4½ | 14 | E ½ N | |||||
| Soobroodka | 7 | 18 | E by N | |||||
| Naye | 7 | 16 | ENE | |||||
| Fattyacunda | 3¼ | 7 | ditto | |||||
| Kimmoo | 4½ | 12 | ditto | 14° 25′ | ||||
| Joag | 6 | 16 | E by N | Kajaaga | ||||
[67]According to this result, Joag would be in longitude 9° 12′, and Fort St. Joseph in 9° 21′; which is about 38 min. more easterly than M. D’Anville’s Map of the Senegal allows: of which more in the sequel.
[68]In Vol. iv. p. 92.
| Hours | G. miles direct. | Bearings by compass. | Lat. by observ. | Country. | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Joag to | ⎫ ⎬ ⎭ | — | — | — | 14° 25′ | ⎱ ⎰ | |
| 7 | 18 | E by N | Kajaaga | ||||
| Sammee | ⎫ ⎪ ⎪ ⎬ ⎪ ⎪ ⎭ | ||||||
| Kayee | 3½ | 9 | Ditto | ||||
| Teesee | 7½ | 18 | NE by N | ||||
| Medina | — | 12 | SE by E | Kasson | |||
| Jumbo | — | 12 | Ditto | 14° 34′ | |||
| Kooniakarry | — | 3 | E by S | ||||
[70]The register of the bearings and distance between Kooniakarry and Jarra, being lost or mislaid, Mr. Park gave them from memory only; but the observations of latitude at two places within that space, were preserved, as well as the latitude by account at two other places.
| Hours | G. miles direct. | Bearings by compass. | Lat. by observ. | Country. | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Kooniakarryto | — | — | — | 14° 34′ | ⎫ ⎪ ⎬ ⎪ ⎭ | Kasson |
| Soomo | — | 17 | SE ½ E | |||
| Kanjee | — | 17 | Do. | 14° 10′ | ||
| Leekarago | — | 8 | Easterly | |||
| Feesurah | — | 14 | E by S | 14° 5′ | ⎫ ⎪ ⎪ ⎬ ⎪ ⎪ ⎭ | Kaarta |
| Karancalla | — | 18 | Easterly | |||
| Kemmoo | — | 8 | E by N | |||
| Marina | — | 13 | Northerly | |||
| Toordah | — | 8 | Do. | |||
| Funingkeddy | — | 12 | N by E ½ E | |||
| Simbing | — | 16 | N by E | ⎱ ⎰ | Ludamar | |
| Jarra | — | 2 | NNE | 15° 5′ | ||
| Equal to 144 min. of longitude; | whence Joag being by account in long. | 9° | 12 |
| Add 144 min. | 2 | 24 | |
| Long. of Jarra, by Mr. Park’soriginal calculation | 6 | 48 | |
[72]Mr. Carmichael came within 6 or 7 degrees in the bearing between Aleppo and Bussorah, on a distance of 720 British miles. But the advantages were prodigiously in his favour; the road being straight, the country open, and the camel walking an equable pace. (See Phil. Trans. for 1791.)
| Diff. Lat. S. | Diff. Lon. E. | N. | E. | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jarra to | Doolinkeaboo | 7 | 24 | |||
| Queira | 11′ | 25′ | Diggani§ | 19 | 8 | |
| Sherilla | 14 | 40 | Seracorro | 5 | 9 | |
| Dama | 11 | 4 | Sego | 6 | 3 | |
| Wawra | 5 | 8 | Lat. by account 13° 4′ | ⎱ ⎰ | 121 S | 281 E |
| Dingyee | — | 7 | Diff. lon. 4° 41′ E | |||
| Wassiboo‖ | — | 7 | Sansanding | 10 N | 15 E | |
| Satile | 18 | 31 | Sibiti | — | 7 | |
| Galloo | 1 | 21 | Nyara | 3 | 16 | |
| Moorja | 4 N | 14 | Modiboo | 3 | 19 | |
| Datiliboo | 9 S | 38 | Silla | 2 | 12 | |
| Fanimboo | 12 | 24 | Lat. by account 13° 22′ | ⎱ ⎰ | 18 N | 69 E |
| Jiosorra | 7 | 18 | Diff. lon. 1° 9′ E | |||
No variation was allowed in this calculation.
[74]Original bearings between Wassiboo‖ and Diggani.§
| Places. | Dist. | Bearings. | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wassiboo to | ||||
| Satile | 30 | SE b E | ||
| Galloo | 20 | ESE | ||
| Moorja | 15 | E b N | ||
| Datiliboo | 25 | SE b E | ||
| Fanimboo | 35 | ESE | ||
| Jiosorra | 20 | ESE | ||
| Doolinkeaboo | 15 | SE b E | ||
| Lions | 18 | SE b S | ||
| [a]Diggani | 7 | South |
[a]On working these bearings over again, it appeared that Mr. Park had made a mistake; and thence inferred a wrong position for Diggani, Sego, &c. in his table of latitudes and longitudes. I mention this, to shew that he has acted fairly, in exposing his whole process; and even his errors.
[75]This being equal to 4° 47′ difference of longitude, Sego, by Mr. Park’s reckoning, would lie in 2° 1′ west of Greenwich.
[76]The informant might possibly be influenced by the bearing of that portion of the road nearest to him, which is more easterly than the part towards Sego.
[77]It may not be known to the generality of readers, that, in the former part of this century, Tombuctoo was as much the object of geographical research amongst the French, as it has been of late with the English. D’Anville was particularly anxious about it, as may be seen in the Mem. of the Academy of Inscrip. Vol. xxvi. p. 73.
CHAPTER IV.
The Construction of the Geography continued.
At Silla, Mr. Park was informed that Tombuctoo was yet fourteen journies of the caravan distant from him; and these he has calculated at 200 G. miles only, in a direct line from Silla; as it appears that a bend in the course of the river, prevents a direct line of route towards it. As to the bearing, he unfortunately could not, as at Jarra, obtain a consistent account of it. The natives always pointed along the general course of the river; although, as it may be supposed, it occasionally deviated to the right and left. It has been seen, in the bearing of Sego, how nearly it was given by judgment; but then the two cases differ very widely. The route is entirely by land, from Jarra to Sego, by which the idea of the general line of direction is better preserved, than when broken into so many small parts, by a river navigation, the more ordinary mode of communication (as it appears) between Silla and Tombuctoo. There were, no doubt, people, could Mr. Park have been able to meet with them, who having made the journey by land, could have furnished him with better information: but the reader, who already knows under what suspicious circumstances Mr. Park travelled in this quarter, will easily conceive that he was precluded from any communication with those, who alone could have given the information: that is, the Moorish merchants, and their dependants.
The bearing of Tombuctoo from Benowm, was pointed out to Mr. Park, by a merchant of some consideration, who had resided at Walet, and had visited both Tombuctoo and Houssa. But the exceeding great distance of Tombuctoo and Benowm, (it being nearly twice the distance of Sego from Jarra), will not admit such a degree of confidence in the report, as to allow it to supersede all other authorities, however it may aid the task of approximating the position. But, notwithstanding, it will appear, that on the whole, it coincides most wonderfully with the other data.
The bearing in question, pointed out at different times, was commonly E by S, by compass: and Mr. Park never found his informant vary more than half a point, which was to the southward; or E by S ½ S. But the idea left on his mind, was E by S; which, allowing 17 degrees variation, is about east half north; or more correctly, E 5¾ N. And hence, admitting the distance of 200 G. miles between Silla and Tombuctoo, which supposes a space of about 500 such miles between Benowm and Tombuctoo, this latter would fall at about 50 minutes of latitude northward from Benowm (whose parallel is the same with that of Jarra, 15° 5′), and consequently in 15° 55′. The obliquity of the intermediate meridians, might increase the parallel some minutes, and we may call it roundly 16°.
Such then was the received opinion at Benowm, concerning the parallel of Tombuctoo: for, it will appear, that the distance on the Rhumb, which determines the difference of latitude, cannot be taken lower, than has been stated.
If the general course of the Joliba, after its escape from the mountains, may be admitted to have any weight in the determination of the question (since Mr. Park says, that they always pointed along it, to express the line of direction, in which Tombuctoo lay), this will point to a higher parallel, by about half a degree, than the bearing from Benowm; that is to 16½ degrees. And, it may be remarked, that the difference between these results falls yet short of what would have arisen on an error of 5 degrees in the bearing; such as was experienced in that of Sego from Jarra.
Mr. Park was informed whilst at Benowm, that Walet, the capital of Beeroo, was ten journies distant, and this latter eleven journies short of Tombuctoo. According to Mr. Park’s information, Walet stands at about 240 G. miles, to the eastward of Benowm; (which would require no less than 24 such miles per day, and appears out of rule, unless meant for journies of couriers, which is possible enough.) But what is most to our point, is, that by the information he received, concerning the position of Walet, it appears to lie from Benowm, in the same line of direction which points to Tombuctoo, when placed in 16½. Now, as Walet lies in the shortest route from Benowm to Tombuctoo, one might infer, of course, that it lies also the nearest to the line of direction towards Tombuctoo, of any of the places pointed out: and, I confess, I am strongly inclined to adopt the highest parallel, on this very account.
These alone, are the authorities for the position of Tombuctoo, derived from Mr. Park’s observations and inquiries; and which differ, as we have seen, no more than half a degree in the parallel: that is, from 16°, to 16°½. The reader may recollect, that these are very far indeed to the southward of those assigned to it, by M. D’Anville and myself, in former publications; as we mistook its position so far, as to place it between 19°, and 20°.
Before I proceed to state the authorities for its position, derived from the northern stations, it will be proper to compare the calculation of distance made by Mr. Park, with the reports of merchants and travellers; in order finally to deduce the longitude of Tombuctoo from the west; and afford a fair ground of comparison, between the authorities from the opposite quarters.
It has appeared that Sego, according to Mr. Park’s calculation, falls in latitude 14° 10′, longitude 2° 1′ west of Greenwich: and accordingly, the direct distance between it and Medina, the capital of Woolli, will be by this account 618 G. miles. Now, the merchants reckon 36 journies between them. The daily rate between Fezzan and Egypt having come out by construction 16,3[78] per day, on 53 days, and about 16¼ between Morocco and Jarra, on 50 days, I may venture to assume the highest of the two rates on 36 days; and this gives about 587, or only 31 short of Mr. Park’s result.
Again, between Fort St. Joseph and Tombuctoo, M. D’Anville (Mem. Insc. Vol. xxvi. p. 73.) allows 240 French leagues. These are rated at 2,64 G. miles, or 23¾ to a degree, on his scale; consequently there results a distance of 634 G. miles. M. Lalande (Afrique, p. 23.) allows 250 leagues, which give about 660 miles. Ben Ali went from St. Joseph to Tombuctoo, by way of Tisheet and Aroan, in forty-eight days. The detour may be taken at eight days more than the direct road (for Mr. Park furnishes the positions of Tisheet and Aroan very satisfactorily), whence 40 remain, which at 16,3, produce 652 miles.
Lastly, although the following be a very vague kind of computation, it may not altogether be useless. Major Houghton’s guide undertook to carry him to Tombuctoo, from Ferbanna in Bambouk, and to return again in ninety days. Ferbanna is much about the same distance, as St. Joseph, from Tombuctoo. Perhaps no more than ten days can well be allowed for rest and refreshment, and then forty days will be the length of the journey.
The mean of the three first reports, is about 649: and on the Map, the space between St. Joseph and Tombuctoo, according to Mr. Park’s result, is 667, or 18 more.
There is then, a difference of 31 only, on the accounts between Woolli and Sego: 18, between St. Joseph and Tombuctoo; both pointing to an excess, on the part of our traveller. I am however far from offering these results, on the ground of inducing a belief that such small differences can be ascertained by such coarse materials; but rather to shew that in the general scope of the authorities, there was more of coincidence, than of disagreement, if the circumstances are rightly appreciated.
As it appears, however, that Mr. Park and Major Houghton formed different estimates of the distance between Medina and the river Falemé; and that the former exceeds by about 36 miles; and moreover, that on Mr. Park’s return by the southern route, he found by the number and scale of his journies, that he had allowed too great an extent to the space between the rivers Falemé and Gambia; I say, it clearly appears that an excess may be admitted in this part. It may be added, that, according to the report of the African travellers, at Pisania, concerning the arrangement of the journies, there is an excess on the west of Kasson; whilst the space on the east of it, agrees pretty well. Or, strictly speaking, perhaps the space is a little under-rated on the east, and much over-rated on the west. If the mean of the differences between Pisania and Tombuctoo, Fort St. Joseph and Tombuctoo, 31, and 18, that is, 24 miles be taken off, the result will be satisfactory; as it agrees pretty well with the excess found in the southern route, on Mr. Park’s return.
This naturally leads me to the discussion of the position of Fort St. Joseph, as a point connecting the upper and lower part of the Senegal river: or in other words, the routes of the French, below, with those of the English, in the interior of the country.
The French report concerning this position also points to an excess of distance from the westward; even more than that arising from the difference between Mr. Park’s reckoning and the reports of the merchants; for it amounts to about 37 miles.
Could it be ascertained that a measured survey of the Senegal river, to the height of Fort St. Joseph, had been taken, as Labat says (Vol. ii. p. 157.) was actually done, by the order of the Sieur Brüe, this would settle the matter at once. But cursory surveys have so often been called actual and measured ones, that one must be in possession of better authority, before the survey of the Senegal river can be relied on, as an absolute measure of distance. Nor is there, in the list of places in the Con. de Temps, any intimation of the longitude of St. Joseph by triangles, or measurement. Here follows a statement of the means used in fixing the position of this place.
M. D’Anville, in his map of the Senegal and Gambia rivers (1751) places St. Joseph 7° 44′ east of Ferro, which being in 17° 37′ west of Greenwich, Fort St. Joseph should be in 9° 53′. This is 32′ to the west of the position arising on Mr. Park’s route; which gives 9° 21′. But M. D’Anville supposes a difference of longitude of 6° 9′ 15″ only, between Fort St. Louis, at the mouth of the Senegal river, and Fort St. Joseph: and as I have followed M. Fleurieu’s ideas in placing St. Louis in 16° 8′ longitude, St. Joseph of course falls in 9° 59′, rejecting the seconds; making a difference of 37 G. miles, or 38 min. from Mr. Park; that is, 13 miles more than the mean of the differences between the authorities for the position of Tombuctoo.[79]
It is obvious, that as neither St. Louis nor Jillifrey, are exactly determined, in respect of Cape Verd, or of each other, it would be idle to attempt a critical adjustment of them; and therefore I have adopted the position arising from Mr. Park’s route, corrected by 24 miles, or 25 min. of longitude, more to the west; so that Fort St. Joseph stands in the map in lon. 9° 46′, lat. 14° 34′.
In consequence of this correction, all the eastern positions, Joag, Jarra, Sego, &c. must of course recede 25 minutes to the westward of the arrangement heretofore made, on the construction of Mr. Park’s geographical materials. Hence I place
| Joag, in | 9° | 37′ | west, | instead of | 9° | 12′ |
| Jarra, in | 7 | 13 | 6 | 48 | ||
| Sego, in | 2 | 26 | 2 | 1 | ||
| Silla, in | 1 | 24 | 0 | 59 | ||
| And Tombuctoo, in | 1 | 33 | east, | 1 | 58[80] | |
I now proceed to state the reports of the distance to Tombuctoo, from the NW, N, and NE.
From Tatta[81] on the southern frontier of Morocco, 9½ journies to the SSE of the capital, (equal to 157 G. miles) the distance is 50 journies of the caravan, according to Mr. Matra.
From Mourzouk, the capital of Fezzan, (taken to be in latitude 27° 48′ and longitude 15° 3′ east, or directly south of Mesurata), 64 journies, according to the report of Ben Ali. And from Tunis, 77 journies, through Kabes and Gadamis, according to Mr. Magrah.
On the route between Mourzouk and Cairo, as well as between Morocco and Jarra, it has been already stated ([p. xxxviii]), that 16,3 and 16,25 were the mean rates: and the former was accordingly adopted between Woolli and Sego. At the same rate, the 50 days from Tatta, give 815 G. miles, and the 59½ from Morocco, 970. The 64 from Mourzouk give 1043; and the 77 from Tunis, 1255.
Now the above assumed position of Tombuctoo, falls exactly at the given distance from Morocco through Tatta; and 18 short of that from Fezzan (Mourzouk); but 61 beyond that from Tunis. The coincidence therefore of the three lines of distance from the Gambia, from Morocco and Fezzan, may be regarded as complete, since, in using the same rate nearly across the whole continent of Africa, from Cape Verd to Egypt, a difference of 18 miles only, arises. And hence, the public mind may well be satisfied at present respecting this important position. Whichsoever of the two determinations may be right, is of little consequence: but I hold it to be more prudent to adhere to that line which is the result of computation in detail, and corrected as above, than to the long lines given in the aggregate, and in which there is more risk of error. And thus I close the subject of the position of Tombuctoo; placing it in latitude 16° 30′, longitude 1° 33′ east of Greenwich.
Something, however, is proper to be said, concerning the rate of travelling adopted on the present occasion, as it differs materially from that allowed on long lines of distance, in the Proceedings of the Association, in 1790. I there allowed 16½ for a single day, but, diminished the rate according to the length of the lines of distance. It would appear that the proportion of diminution allowed, although proper enough in countries, where obstacles interpose to change the line of direction, is not applicable to that part of Africa, where the great Deserts are crossed in so straight a line, as hardly to increase the simple winding, arising on each day’s course, in any considerable degree; and that even the simple winding is less than elsewhere. And hence 16¼, or more, arises on the camel routes, on long lines of distance, across the Desert; and on the pilgrims’ routes, where it appears the camels travel with light burthens. It was through misconception of this rate, that I placed Tombuctoo, so far to the north. I am ignorant of the cause of M. D’Anville’s error.
The particulars of the geography between Silla and Tombuctoo, are copied exactly from Mr. Park’s map; and require but little elucidation. Jinné, a large town, is two short journies below Silla: and Tombuctoo, twelve still lower down. It would appear that all the journies were conceived to be short, as Mr. Park allows only 200 G. miles for the aggregate of the 14.
Two days below Jinné, the Joliba expands itself into a considerable lake, already mentioned by the name of Dibbie; from whence the river again issues in a number of streams. These unite at a lower point, and then form two large branches, which separating widely from each other, form an island near 100 miles in length, whose name being Ginbala, or Jinbala, we recognize in it, the Guinbala country of M. D’Anville; as in the northern branch of the river that bounds it, the river of Guin, mistaken by him for the original head of the Tombuctoo river (or Niger); as he also mistook the lake of Dibbie for that of the Senegal river. Such were the errors in the African geography, to the date of the African Association: one of which errors conducted the Senegal river through 500 miles of the space which is, in reality, occupied by the Niger.
The position of Houssa will be adjusted in the map of Africa.
The important station of Tombuctoo, being adjusted, together with the positions dependent on it, I proceed with Mr. Park, on his return by the south, to his original point of outset in the west: taking it up at Sego, by which he passed in his way.
Along this line, an account of the bearings by compass was kept, as well as circumstances would permit, until the instrument was rendered useless, by robbers, near Sibidooloo. This was, however, the most important part of the route, as it lay along the side of the Joliba, the knowledge of whose course is, by this means, prolonged to about 350 British miles. Mr. Park moreover committed to paper, a tracing of its general windings; and obtained notices respecting the place of its source, during his long residence at Kamaliah, in the country of Manding, (commonly called Mandinga.)
Kamaliah is about 40 G. miles SW of Sibidooloo;[82] and to this place Mr. Park contrived to extend his line of bearings from Sego. He also learnt, that Jarra lay ten journies to the north-westward of Kamaliah; which agrees satisfactorily to the result from Sego, as it leaves 154 G. miles, for the ten journies; and Kamaliah itself falls in lat. 12° 46′; 227½ from Sego, in a direction of W 21 S; corrected by the allowance of 17° variation.
The town of Bammako, where the Joliba first becomes navigable (or perhaps to which point it is navigable upwards, in a continuous course from Tombuctoo), lies about fifty miles short of Kamaliah.[83] It is reckoned by the natives, ten journies only from Sego.[84]
At Kamaliah the source of the Joliba (or Niger), was pointed out to Mr. Park, at a bearing of south, a very little west, seven journies distant; and for these, he allows 108 G. miles. The name of the place is Sankary, and seems meant by the Songo of D’Anville; which, however, he supposed to be at the source of the Gambia river, in the kingdom of Mandinga. Such were the crude ideas heretofore entertained of this geography.
Here it may be proper to mention, that Mr. Park, whilst at Kooniakarry, in Kasson, in his way out, meditated a route to the south-eastward, through Kasson, Fooladoo, and Manding; which route was to have brought him to the Joliba in twenty days. The place on the Joliba is not mentioned: possibly it might be Yamina. This route, however, he was not permitted to take. Had he pursued it, his personal sufferings might probably have been less; but our knowledge of the geography would probably have been less, also.
It has been mentioned, that the space between Jarra and Kamaliah, is checked by the report of the road distance between them. It is proper also to state, as a further proof of the consistency of the respective positions of Jarra and Kong, that the distance across, agrees generally with the report of the Shereef Imhammed, who says, that Yarba, (meant for Yarra, or Jarra,) is eighteen to twenty days journey to the NW of Gonjah, meaning Kong. (Proc. Af. Assoc. chap. xii.) Mr. Park was told that Kong, was ten journies to the southward, or SSW of Sego; and he saw a part of the great ridge of blue mountains of Kong, as he coasted the Niger westward. These notices agree well with the Shereef’s report.
Between Kamaliah and Woolli, there is yet a greater degree of uncertainty respecting the data for the geographical construction; for in this long line of near 400 geographical miles, the line of direction is collected from the places of the sun and stars; the compass being useless, whilst the traveller was in motion. Besides, the rapidity of the march, and the height of the woods, were unfavourable to any attempts of that kind, had bodily fatigue and hunger, left him either the inclination or the ability: for, in effect, it was one long forced march through the Jallonka Wilderness, under the terrors of famine, or being left behind to perish, by wild beasts.
Under such circumstances, it was full as much as could reasonably be expected, to obtain some general idea of the line of direction, on which he travelled; together with the proportional lengths of the several intervals, by keeping an account of the time; leaving the absolute scale to be determined by the extent of the space. In this, he succeeded so well, that the middle part of the line, when produced to the capital of Woolli, appears to be no more than half a point out of the bearing; as is shewn by Labat’s map of Bambouk (Vol. iv. p. 92), in which the course of the river of Falemé, which Mr. Park crossed in his way home, as well as out, is described; and affords much assistance in adjusting his position on that river, on his return.
It is first necessary to state, that M. D’Anville, in his map of Senegal, &c. (1751) has totally disregarded the scale of Labat’s map, as well as most of the bearings in it; having preferred to it some other authority; perhaps some tracing of the two rivers. M. D’Anville allows no more than thirty-seven geographical miles between the two passes Naye and Kayee on the Falemé and Senegal rivers; when Mr. Park allows sixty-two. Now Labat’s scale agrees with the latter: for he allows 28¾ French leagues for this interval, equal to 2,16 geographical miles per league, according to Mr. Park’s calculation. The leagues were therefore probably of road measure: as a league in direct distance appears to be equal to 2,64. Hence M. D’Anville, seems to have misconceived the matter; and has applied the same erroneous scale to the course of the Falemé river, upwards; which he has shortened by about twenty-six geographical miles; carrying that part no higher than to latitude 13°, which by the original (or rather the proportioned) scale, should be extended to 12° 34′.
This Map of Labat, then, gives the position of Ferbanna on the Falemé river;[85] as also the southern boundaries of Bondou and Bambouk, with other particulars. Mr. Park, when at the pass of the Falemé river, between Satadoo and Medina,[86] obtained some general notices concerning his position, in respect of the above points. For he learnt that Ferbanna (Tenda) lay at some distance lower down the river: that Bondou (by the account of a fellow-traveller who was on his way thither) lay six journies to the northward; and he learnt also the general position of Bambouk. To this may be added, that he kept on his right hand (to the N), and even touched the foot of it at Dindikoo, a ridge of mountains, answering to that which, in Labat’s map, crosses the Falemé above Ferbanna; and which is also found precisely at the corresponding point, with Dindikoo. Moreover, it preserves in Labat, the same distance from the southern boundary of Bambouk, as that seen by Park. And finally, it appears, by the description of the southern route pointed out by the King of Bambouk (see Mem. 1793, p. 11.), that Mr. Park passed to the southward of Ferbanna, and yet not far from it. For the king’s road from Ferbanna (Tenda) led eastward, through Concoudou (the Konkodoo of Park, a province) as also through Silloumana, Gangaran, Gadou, and Manding. Now there is every reasonable proof that (bating Ferbanna) this is the very route by which Mr. Park returned. His route went through Gangaran (Gankaran), on the one hand, Konkodoo on the other. Sillou-Mana is very probably intended for Kullo-Manna,[87] a famous pass over the Black River, or main stream of the Senegal, where a bridge of a very singular construction is thrown across occasionally, for the use of the caravans. It is unlikely that bridges should occur at two places in the southern route, and more particularly as the one at Manna is placed there, because the steep rocky banks, and narrow channel of the river, are peculiarly adapted to that kind of bridge.
It may therefore be concluded, that from Konkodoo, the king’s road, instead of turning to the SW to Satadoo, leads straight on to the westward to Ferbanna, and thence into the Woolli road, either at Baneserile or Kirwanny; being a branch, only, of the great southern road, leading directly across the mountains; whilst the other makes a bend to the south, to avoid them; which bend, according to Mr. Park’s description of his route, is so much like that in Labat’s map above Ferbanna, that I cannot help suspecting the Dambanna of Labat to be meant for the Dindikoo of Mr. Park. I return to the construction of the route.
Ferbanna, in Labat, is placed 33 leagues on a bearing of S 11° E from Cacullo, another pass on the same river Falemé, in latitude 13° 54′, by Major Houghton’s observation: and which is about 20 miles south of Naye, where Mr. Park crossed it in his way out. The 33 leagues according to the proportional scale furnished by Mr. Park’s route (2,16 each) give 71¼ G. miles for the distance of Ferbanna from Cacullo: or latitude 12° 46′. From this point, Labat describes the course of the river 24 miles higher up, in a SE by E direction. About this place, we may suppose that Mr. Park crossed the Falemé on his return; since it agrees with the circumstances of the mountains, the bend of the road above described, and the distance of Bambouk and Bondou; to which may be added, the general accordance of the bearing from Manding. Medina, a village, stood on the west bank of the Falemé, at the pass; and Satadoo, the capital of the province, at two miles to the eastward of it. It is certain that neither Satadoo, nor Konkodoo, appear in Labat’s map. In that, Macanna is the name of the country bordering on the south of Bambouk; but Mr. Park calls it Konkodoo, which means the country of mountains; and appears very characteristic. (These mountains extend through Bambouk and Kasson, and are productive in gold.) Again, Combregoudou in Labat, occupies the places of Satadoo and Dentila in Mr. Park’s descriptions: and we must therefore conclude, that either these countries have more than one name, or have changed their names in the course of the century.
On the whole, it cannot well be doubted that the adjustment of the southern route, to the northern, in this place, is tolerably exact; and it is indeed a matter of the first importance to the geography. One circumstance is very much in its favour: at Kirwanny on this route Mr. Park was told, that the course of the Gambia river lay three journies southward, or one journey within the boundary of Foota-Jallo: and Dr. Afzelius was informed, that the same river runs at the distance of four journies from the mountains which skirt the Rio Grande on the north-east. These notices accord perfectly with the relative positions of Kirwanny, and the course of the Rio Grande, which are about 112 G. miles asunder, on the construction.
This adjustment, moreover, goes as well to the proportioning of the longitudinal distance, on the line between Kamaliah and Woolli, by means of the course of the river Falemé, extended from a known point in the northern route.
On Mr. Park’s original map, I find 201 G. miles on that portion of the southern line, east of the Falemé river; 181 on the west: whilst the respective intervals on my construction, are 211, and 185. But Mr. Park observed, that there was a greater portion of distance to be travelled through, on his return, than he had expected. His reckoning was, according to the sea phrase, ahead of the ship: which was, no doubt, occasioned by his omitting to take the variation of the compass into the account, after he had lost his sextant at Jarra.
It appears on the examination of his journal, that between the river Falemé and Baraconda, in Woolli (a few miles short of Medina), they employed nine whole days, and part of a tenth; a great part of which journey lay through the wildernesses of Tenda and Simbani. Six of the days are remarked to be either long or very long: and one in particular was a very hard day’s work. Allowing six miles for the fraction of the day, the nine whole ones require 19 G. miles of direct distance, each: and as the road diverged considerably from the direct line (to the southward, falling in with the Gambia pretty high up) they may be taken somewhat higher. The five forced marches through the Jallonka wilderness are also calculated at 19 each, direct: and which may produce 25 road miles: I should conceive those through the Tenda and Simbani wildernesses to be equal to 26, at a medium; and some of them more than 30.[88]
Thus I have brought the grand outline of Mr. Park’s Geography to a conclusion; and cannot do otherwise than sympathize with him in his feelings, when he arrived at “the hospitable door of Dr. Laidley,” at Pisania, after an absence of eighteen months, unheard of, during the whole time; whether enjoying the triumphs of exploring new paths; whether pining in hopeless captivity, amongst the barbarous Moors of Jarra; or fostered by the kind hands of Mandinga Negroes.
It remains that something should be said regarding the connection of Mr. Park’s Geography with that of Labat, between the rivers Senegal and Falemé; as well as concerning the positions of the falls of the Senegal river.
Labat’s scale has already been adjusted to Mr. Park’s, in [p. xlv,] where 2,16 G. miles were found equivalent to one of Labat’s leagues, in direct distance.
Kayee, the pass on the Senegal river, where Mr. Park crossed it, is given at 16⅔ leagues above Fort St. Joseph, in Labat’s Map, (Vol. iv. p. 92.) and the falls of F’low (Felou in Labat), 5½ still higher up. Kayee may therefore be taken at 36 miles, and F’low 48, above St. Joseph; the bearing a point or more to the southward of east.
F’low is the lower fall, (below which the river continues navigable generally, to the sea,) and Govinea, the upper fall. The distance between them is very differently represented, by different persons; but I believe, is from 12 to 14 leagues, perhaps 30 G. miles, direct. It is true that Labat says, in more than one place,[89] that they are 40 leagues asunder; but as his Map (in Vol. iv. p. 92.) has less than 12 leagues; and as M. P. D. also says (p. 78.) 12 leagues: and as, moreover, the King of Kasson’s residence is said to be midway between the two falls; and that residence appearing to be Kooniakarry, a place visited by Mr. Park; and which is no more than about 22′ from the lower fall, and at 13′ distant from the north bank of the river; it cannot well be otherwise than that the two falls are within 30 G. miles of each other. And hence it may be concluded, that quatorze and not quarante, was in the original manuscript.
The distance between Kooniakarry and the Senegal river, 13 miles, points to a WNW course, or thereabouts, of the river between the falls; not much different from its general course, lower down. But as the Ba-fing, or principal arm of this river, must run almost directly to the north, from the place where Mr. Park crossed it, in Jallonkadoo, it is highly probable, that the two great branches unite at no great distance above the upper fall; for the same ridge of mountains that occasions the fall, may, perhaps, occasion a junction of the different streams above it.
These falls are said by Labat to be from 30 to 40 toises perpendicular; or 180 to 240 French feet. We must recollect that P. Hinnepen states the fall of Niagara at 600 feet, which subsequent accounts have reduced to 150.[90] The reader will, however, find very curious descriptions of these falls, and of the river itself, in Labat, Vol. ii. p. 156, 160.
[78]Strictly 16,292.
[79]It is proper to remark that M. D’Anville took the longitude of Cape Verd 18½ min. more to the east, in respect of Ferro, than M. Fleurieu: and Fort St. Louis, more to the west in respect to Cape Verd, by 10¼ min.
M. D’Anville moreover, allows no more than 3° 2′ 30″ diff. lon. between Pisania and Fort St. Joseph, which by the corrected distance of Mr. Park, is no less than 3° 42′.
[80]The latitudes remain as they were.
[81]For further particulars respecting Tatta, see Afr. Assoc. Q.; p. 225: and O. 333.
[82]It lies nearly midway between the Joliba and Senegal rivers.
[83]Bammako, by Mr. Park’s original bearings, lies from Sego W 8° S, 178 G. miles: and Kamaliah W 7°½ N, 51½. These are corrected to W 25° S, and W 9°½ S.
[84]Perhaps the long journies of the slave caravans, such as Mr. Park experienced, to the westward of this place.
[85]Not the Ferbanna of Bambouk, at which Major Houghton resided; but Ferbanna Tenda, through which the King of Bambouk described the southern route of the Slatees to lead, from Woolli to Manding. (See Mem. Af. Assoc. 1793; p. 11.)
[86]There are several places of this name. The one in question lies to the south of Bambouk.
[87]Kullo is a province of Jallankadoo, occupying both banks of the Ba-fing, or Black River; and Manna the name of the town. [Park.]
[88]Mr. Park seems to reckon 18 G. miles, in a direct distance, a long journey: and 16 to 17 seems to have been his ordinary rate, when left to himself. This is also the ordinary rate of travelling, with those who perform journies on foot, or with loaded beasts.
[89]Vol. ii. p. 156. Vol. iii. 290 and 358.
[90]See Ellicott’s Letter in Europ. Mag. Vol. xxiv.
CHAPTER V.
Construction of the New Map of North Africa.[91] — New Arrangement of the Course of the Nile — Its distant Fountains yet unexplored by Europeans. — A central Position in Africa, determined. — Edrisi’s Line of Distance, consistent. — Errors of Leo.
In order that the reader may be enabled to judge of the improved state of the new map of North Africa, I shall set before him a list of the authorities, together with an outline of the construction. To enter into a detail of both, would require a volume: I shall therefore barely specify the authorities for the sea coasts, and for such parts of the interior as have been aforetimes described by geographers; and confine the detail to modern discoveries, and to such parts, as those discoveries have helped to improve: and more especially to the points which determine the courses of the Niger and Nile.
The western and southern coasts, from the Strait of Gibraltar to the Equator, have been newly constructed for the present purpose. M. Fleurieu’s authorities have been followed in respect of Cape Verd, Cape Blanco, and the Canary Islands. The coasts of Morocco and Fez, rest on the authority of Don Tofino’s charts, in the Spanish atlas: and between Morocco and Cape Blanco, various authorities have been admitted, in the different parts: as it appeared to me, that M. Fleurieu had not rightly conceived the position of Cape Bajador.
The coasts on the south and east of Cape Verd, are drawn in conformity to the ideas of Captain Price. This gentleman, in the Royal Charlotte East India ship in 1793, had an opportunity of adjusting the longitudes of some important points; which longitudes Mr. Dalrymple applied to the correction of the existing charts of the coast, and with his accustomed liberality and zeal for the improvement of science, permitted me to avail myself of the use of these corrections, previous to his own publication of them, in a different form. It is to the same invaluable Journal of Capt. Price, that I am indebted for some of the most important notices respecting the variation of the compass, along the coast of Guinea, &c.; and without which notices, the approximation of the quantity of variation in the interior of Africa, could not have been accomplished. (See above, [page xxvi.])
The result is, that the coast of Guinea has several degrees more of extent from east to west; and that the breadth of South Africa at the Equator, is less, than M. D’Anville had supposed.
No alteration has been made in the coasts within the Mediterranean, save in the form and position of the Gulf of Alexandretta, and the adjacent coasts.
The Red Sea, or Arabian Gulf, as well as the whole course of the Nile, have been re-constructed for the present purpose. For the former, a great collection of new materials has been furnished by Mr. Dalrymple. This includes a new chart of the whole Gulf by Captain White, made in 1795: but I have not followed either that or any other single authority throughout: but have made such alterations as appeared to be warranted, on an examination and comparison of the different materials.
The upper part of the Gulf, between Suez and Yambo, is however, preserved entire, as Capt. White drew it.
The position of the Gulf, is thus adjusted:
Capt. White, by two observations of eclipses of Jupiter’s first satellite, found the longitude of Suez to be 30° 28′ 30″ east of Greenwich: and a mean of 76 lunar observations differed less than a minute from the former.
The difference of longitude between Suez and Mocha, near the entrance of the Gulf, is, by the mean of five different accounts, 11° 4′, which added to 32° 28′ gives 43° 32′ for the longitude of Mocha: and which is nearly a mean between the different results, by timekeepers. But until a greater number of celestial observations are taken at the mouth of the Gulf, its position cannot be deemed exact.
Cape Guardafui, is placed by timekeeper observations, in 51° 12′ longitude: 11° 43′ of latitude.
The adjustment of the lower part of the course of the Nile, to the shores of the Red Sea, differs very much from M. D’Anville’s map. He supposed that the Nile, in its course from the lower Cataract (near Syene) to Cairo, gradually approached towards the Arabian Gulf: but late observations shew that it runs nearly parallel to it, throughout that extent, which is about 7 degrees of latitude. Hence the distance across, between the port of Kosire and Ghinna, on the Nile, is much less than M. D’Anville supposed; he having allowed about 110 G. miles, although 90 is about the truth.[92]
It may be proper to state, that the line between Kosire and Ghinna is by no means the shortest, that can be drawn between the Nile and the Red Sea, because it runs obliquely between them. The distance appears to be no greater than 72 miles on an ENE course, from Ghinna to the nearest part of the coast.
Cairo, by the mean of several accounts, is about 59 G. miles to the west of Suez, equal to 1° 8′ of longitude.[93] So that Cairo should stand in 31° 20′. The Con. de Temps has 31° 29′; but it is probable that Suez is the best determined of the two places.
Mr. Bruce had observations of longitude at Kosire and Syene (or Assuan). The first he gives at 34° 4′: and Capt. White at 34° 3′. But as Capt. White gives its latitude at 26° 18′, whilst Mr. Bruce found it only 26° 8′, we may suppose that the former did not approach the coast near enough to discriminate particulars. Mr. Bruce’s parallel intersects the coast in Capt. White’s chart, in lon. 34° 8′: and I have adopted that for the place of Kosire. Capt. White may perhaps have mistaken the old for new Kosire.
Syene is given at 33° 30′ by Mr. Bruce, making 2° 10′ east from Cairo; whereas M. D’Anville has no more than 41 minutes of easting. Hence arises a difference of 12 degrees in the bearing: M. D’Anville’s being about N 9 W; Bruce’s N 21 W: or nearly parallel to the shore of the Red Sea.
The longitude of Sennar is 33° 30′ 30″ according to Mr. Bruce. In this particular is found the widest difference between D’Anville and Bruce; the former placing it no less than 3° 50′ more to the west; that is, D’Anville has it, 1° 41′ west of Cairo, Bruce 2° 9′ east of it.
In effect, then, the general course of the Nile below Sennar lies to the west of north, instead of the contrary, as described in the imperfect materials offered to M. D’Anville. For we cannot doubt the general truth of Mr. Bruce’s geographical positions, although we may not be inclined to allow them every point of accuracy. In the observation of longitude at Kosire, we have seen that he comes very near to Capt. White: and his longitude of Cairo, is more exact, or more in harmony with Capt. White’s observations at Suez, than the longitude recorded in the Con. de Temps. We have moreover another observation of longitude taken by Mr. Bruce at the eastern source of the Nile, 36° 55′ 30″, (lat. 10° 59′), from whence one route leads eastward to the shore of the Red Sea at Masua, another westward to Sennar. Admitting his observations to be ever so coarsely made, these routes must have afforded so considerable a check, to the distance between Masua and Sennar, as to have precluded any very great error, in a difference of longitude of about six degrees only; so that there is little question but that M. D’Anville’s statement is wrong.
From Sennar, Mr. Bruce has a new and interesting route, northward to Syene. Dongola lay wide to the west of this route; and he has not informed us on what authority it is placed in his map. Still, however, the change in the position of the Nile, must carry Dongola to the eastward with it, of course; and in Bruce’s map it is found at 1° 18′ diff. long. to the east of D’Anville’s;[94] equal to 73 G. miles. The latitude of Dongola is also ½ a degree to the south of the parallel assigned by D’Anville, that is, 19½ instead of 20°. With respect to that of Sennar, D’Anville was right.
In describing the western head of the Nile (and which has no existence in Mr. Bruce’s map), it may be thought that I have advanced into the regions of conjecture; but I trust that I have not gone beyond the limits implied by the authorities. To enter into a detail of these, together with the deductions and combinations arising from them, would occupy too much room here; especially as they are designed for another place. It may be sufficient to state, that the branch in question, called the White River, or Abiad,[95] is admitted by Mr. Bruce himself, to be a more bulky stream than the Abyssinian branch. That M. Maillet was told, that it holds a course which is distant from 12 to 20 journies from the eastern branch. That Ledyard was told at Cairo, by certain persons from Darfoor, that the Nile has its fountains in their country situated 55 journies to the westward of Sennar:[96] and whose frontier province, Kordofan, is placed by Bruce, adjoining to the west of the country of Sennar. And finally, that Ptolemy, Edrisi, and Abulfeda, all place the head of the Nile in a quarter far remote from Abyssinia. Ptolemy, in particular, has described the eastern source, in such a way, as that it cannot be taken for any other than the Abyssinian branch (i.e. Bruce’s Nile); and yet he at the same time describes a larger, and more distant, source, to proceed from the SW; answering to the White River. His Coloe lake, is clearly the Tzana of Bruce: and may possibly have been meant to express Galla, the name of the southern division of Abyssinia.[97]
Having completed this part of the subject, I proceed to the inland positions in the western and central parts of the continent.
M. D’Anville has been followed in the geography of Barbary and Morocco, with the exception of an adjustment of the interior of the latter, to the coasts; which are drawn from the charts in the atlas of Don Tofino, in which the capes of Cantin, Geer, &c. are placed more to the east, in respect of the strait, than in D’Anville.
The lower parts of the Senegal, Gambia, and Rio Grande, are from M. D’Anville’s, and Dr. Wadstrom’s maps.
Of Mr. Park’s route and discoveries, it is needless to say more, than that the particular map which contains them, has been copied into this; forming a most important member of it.
The routes and positions formerly introduced from materials collected by the African Association, in the northern part of the continent, are revised and reconstructed; perhaps with more effect, as our knowledge and experience of the subject increases.
Fezzan is placed, as before, due south from Mesurata: its capital Mourzouk, being 17½ journies of the caravan, distant. Edrisi affords a slight check to the bearing, as well as to the distance, by means of Wadan, which lies nearly midway, and is five journies west of Sort, a known position on the coast: and also eight journies of his scale from Zuela, a known position in Fezzan,[98]
A description of the caravan routes from Tripoly, to Mourzouk, Egypt, and the Niger, will be found in the Proceedings of the Association, published in 1790, and 1791 (chapters x. and xii.)
The point on which the central and eastern positions depend, is Ghinny; or Ghana, (as Edrisi and Abulfeda call it) a city, and capital of a kingdom situated nearly midway between the Indian Sea and the Atlantic, on the E and W; and between the Mediterranean and the Ethiopic Seas, on the N and S. Fortunately, this point, on which so many others depend, can be satisfactorily approximated: though by this, I do not mean to any degree of nicety, where an extent of 70 degrees, nearly, is in question.
According to Edrisi, Ghana lies 37 journies from Germa, through Agadez, or Agadost. Germa, an ancient and ruined city of Fezzan, lies to the ESE of Mourzouk, about four journies.[99] The position of Germa therefore will be about lat. 27° 25′: lon. 16° 20′ E. Agadez in 25 of Edrisi’s journies from Germa,[100] and is said to bear S by W, or SSW from the capital of Fezzan.[101] Again, Agadez is given at 48 caravan journies from Gadamis, which latter is 24 such journies in a southerly direction from Tunis.[102] The road to Agadez makes a considerable angle, by passing through Tegerhy, situated 80 miles only, to the SW or WSW of Mourzouk:[103] and hence the direct distance of 48 journies must undergo some diminution. The result places Agadez S by W ¼ W from Mourzouk, 479 G. miles distant; which only exceeds by six miles the distance arising on the 25 journies from Germa: and its position will be at a few minutes above the parallel of 20 degrees, and a little more than half a degree of longitude west of Tripoly. The position receives some further check, from the circumstance of Tegerhy being midway between Kabes and Agadez.[104]
Ghana is 12 days of Edrisi’s scale to the southward of Agadez, or about 229 G. miles.[105] It appears that Ghana lies somewhat to the east of the line which passes through Agadez from Germa; whence some little deduction should be made from the aggregate distance of 37 days, or 705 miles; and I have therefore taken 700 as the general line of distance from Germa to Ghana.
Mr. Matra was told, at Morocco, that Ghinny (Ghana of Edrisi) was 40 journies from Kabra, the port of Tombuctoo, along the bank of the Niger. These, taken at the caravan rate between Fezzan and Egypt; Morocco and Jarra; &c. that is at 16,3 per day, produce 652 G. miles. The intersection of this line with that from Germa, places Ghana in lat. 16° 10′, lon. 13° 2′ E of Greenwich; in which position it stands at 760 miles from the city of Benin, on the coast of Guinea.[106]
De Barros says, that when the Portugueze first explored the Coast of Guinea (about 1469) the king of Benin held his kingdom of the king of Ogane, as his superior lord; and that ambassadors were sent accordingly, to obtain a confirmation of his authority. The distance of Ogane (doubtless meant for Ghana) from Benin, was stated to be 250 leagues of Portugal; which being of 18 to a degree, are equal to about 833 G. miles. And if from these we deduct ½ for the inflections of the road, there remain 740 for the direct line; which, as the reader will perceive, is very near the former result. Thus the determination of this important point, appears satisfactory.[107]
Before I speak further concerning Ghana and Melli, with a view to identify them with the same countries mentioned by Leo, it will be proper to close the line of distance eastward to Nubia.
Between Ghana on the west, and Dongola on the east,[108] the interval on the map is about 1118 G. miles, in an E by N direction, nearly. Edrisi gives a chain of distance between them: and although we cannot ascertain the exact bearing of the several parts, yet enough is known, to enable us to approximate the general bent of it; which is to the south; and the degree of curvature seems to be such, as to increase the distance 50 or 60 miles; say 55, and then the line of Edrisi may be taken at 1173 G. miles.[109] Now as he reckons 66 journies, each will be no more than 17¾: and his usual standard is 19, or 1¼ more. This difference may easily arise on some of the longer portions of the line; which, although given in the aggregate, may be broken into several parts, and each of them inflected from the other in some degree. Such, for instance, may be the case of the line of 30 days between Dongola and Kauga; although the bearing of it, on the whole, is SW by W, or WSW. Therefore the interval of space between Ghana and Dongola seems to be satisfactorily filled up. Or, if we take the whole number of computed journies between Pisania on the Gambia river, and Dongola on the Nile, at 158; of which 92 are between Pisania and Ghana, 66 between the latter and Dongola; there will be on the former, according to our construction, a ratio of about 16,6 G. miles per day, on the direct line; and 16,9 on the latter.
To the northward of this line, and in the quarter towards Nubia, are situated the countries or kingdoms of Bornou (or Kanem) Tagua, Kuku, Kuar, and Zagawa: and in the quarter towards Ghana, are Zanfara, and Zegzeg. Most of them are mentioned, as well by Leo, as by Edrisi.
There is a route to the capital of Bornou given in the Proceedings of the Association, 1790-91, by which it is placed at about SE ½ S from Mourzouk, distant 660 G. miles; whence it falls on the map exactly in the same parallel with Dongola, and at 524 miles to the west of it: so that the country of Bornou occupies the middle space between Nubia and Ghana; Fezzan and Sennar.[110] There is little doubt that Bornou is the Kanem of Edrisi, said to border on Nubia. Angimi (or Gimi) in particular, one of its cities, is said to be near Nubia, on the east.[111] There is a city of the name of Kanem, in the way from Fezzan to the capital of Bornou, as we learn not only from Mr. Beaufoy’s MSS. but from a note in Hartmann:[112] but this cannot be the capital of Kanem, intended by Edrisi; because neither the bearings nor the distances to it, from Dongola and Nubia agree; and also, because the bearing and distance from Dongola do agree exactly to the capital pointed out, by Mr. Beaufoy: and which Edrisi names Matthan, or Matsan. This capital he places at 31 days journey to the west of Nubia, whose position, however, is too uncertain to reckon upon: but Abulfeda says that Zagua, or Zagara, is 20 journies west from Dongola;[113] and Matthan, according to Edrisi, is eight journies from Zagua, (p. 15). It has already been noticed that the capital of Bornou falls in the same parallel with Dongola; and here we learn that Zagua, is also in the same parallel with it; consequently, the whole 28 journies from Dongola, may be taken on the same westerly bearing; and the result will be, a distance of 534 miles; differing only 10 from the interval on the map. Consequently, the Matthan of Edrisi may be taken for the capital of Bornou, pointed out by the above authority.
The countries of Zagua (or Zagara) and Tagua, fill up the space between the kingdom of Bornou and Nubia. The former appears to be a small province, perhaps a dependency of Bornou. The situation of its capital is inferred above, to be eight journies to the east of that of Bornou.
Tagua lies between Zagua and Dongola, and its capital at 13 journies from Matthan, (p. 15). Northward it extends to the tract of Al Wahat, the western province of Upper Egypt. Thus, its position cannot be mistaken.
The country of Kuku (this must not be mistaken for Kauga) lies to the NW of Tagua; NE of Bornou; and joins on the NE to Al Wahat. This is an extensive country, bordering on the Desert of Libya, and partakes of its nature. Its capital of the same name is situated at 20 journies to the north of Kauga. It is also 14 to the eastward of Tamalma, which is itself 12 to the northward of Matthan. Hence Kuku may be approximated, in position. (Edrisi, page 13, et seq.)
A river runs from N to S by Kuku, and is received into a lake at a great distance from Kuku; perhaps the lake of Kauga: and the river itself may form a part of that, said to run near Angimi,[114] of which more in the sequel.
Kuar, or Kawar, lies to the northward of Kuku and of Bornou; and extends eastward to Al Wahat. It is bounded on the north by that extensive Desert which separates Egypt from Fezzan; and which contains the wandering tribe of Lebeta or Levata; as also various Oases, or fertile islands; amongst the rest, those of Augela, Berdoa, Seewah, and that which contained the temple of Jupiter Ammon. This Desert I regard as the proper Desert of Libya: and it may be a question whether the tribe of Lebeta, although now found in the interior of the country, may not have originally inhabited the sea coast; and that the Greeks denominated Africa from them.[115] This was the part of Africa the nearest, and first colonized by the Greeks; and it is a known fact, that the Adyrmachidæ and Nasamones, who, in the days of Herodotus, inhabited the coasts, were at a succeeding period, found in the inland parts about Ammon and Augela.
The capital of Kuar is by Edrisi placed adjacent to Fezzan; but there is either some mistake in this, or I do not comprehend the matter rightly. (Ed. p. 39, 40.) Tamalma, a city of Kuar, is only 12 days from Matthan (p. 14.), so that the Desert of Bilma, or Bulma, must lie between it and Fezzan. Mederam Isa, another of its cities, is said to be only two days from Zuela, or Zawila, a city of Fezzan: and Izer, a third city, is placed in the same neighbourhood, and near a large lake. Either then, these cities belong to Fezzan, and are by mistake classed as belonging to Kuar; or they really belong, as well as Tamalma, (of which there is no doubt) to Kuar. I am inclined to the latter opinion, for the following reasons. In the catalogue of places, in Fezzan (in Af. Assoc.) there is no mention either of Izer, Isa, Bulmala, or of a lake near the former. But there is a remarkable salt lake near Dumboo, on the northern frontier of Bornou, which from its relative position to Tamalma, may well be the one intended by Edrisi: especially as Bulmala, (p. 40.) which may be meant for Bulma, occurs in the same neighbourhood. The salt lakes of Dumboo are said to be situated in the Desert of Bilma;[116] which Desert appears to be a prolongation of the Libyan Desert to the SW.
Zanfara is said by Labat, to be 50 journies from Tombuctoo.[117] Leo places it between Wangara and Zegzeg; which latter, by the same authority, being to the SE of Cano (or Ganat) Zanfara must necessarily border on the NE of Ghana; having Bornou on the east, Agadez and Kassina (which we formerly erroneously spelt Cashnah) on the west. Here it may be proper to observe, that in the present political division of Africa, Kassina comprizes generally the provinces between Fezzan and the Niger; and that Zanfara is its eastern boundary. Of course Ghana, which in the 15th century was paramount in the centre of Africa, is now become a province of Kassina.
To the south of the line between Ghana and Nubia, very few particulars are known to Europeans. The knowledge of Edrisi, was limited to this line itself: and the only country known to him on the south of the Niger, was Melli, which he calls Lamlem. Nor did the knowledge of Leo, extend beyond the countries contiguous to the south bank of the Niger; nor to any country west of Tombuctoo; although by mistake, he places Ghana and Melli, there. This may serve to shew, that the people on the north side of the Niger, have very little communication with those, who live beyond the great belt of mountains, which runs across Africa, at about the 10th degree.
Nor did the inquiries of Mr. Beaufoy produce any thing more than the names of certain of the adjacent countries; the only one of which that can be placed, is Begarmee (perhaps the Begama of Edrisi) said to be 20 journies to the SE of Bornou, and separated from it by several small deserts.[118] It seems to be the country intended by the Gorham of D’Anville.
Kororofa and Guber are said in Mr. Beaufoy’s MSS. to lie to the west of Begarmee; the latter bordering on Wangara. Neither of these, can well be in a lower parallel than 11° or 12 degrees. But Darfoor, a country of considerable extent and population, and apparently the farthest removed of any that has a communication with Egypt, is pointed out to our notice by Mr. Ledyard, as has been already shewn.[119]
In the present limited state of our knowledge respecting the interior of Africa, it would be mis-spending time to attempt to follow Leo, in his detail of provinces and nations, in the parts remote from the immediate scene of our discoveries; or of the routes communicated to the Association. But it is of the utmost importance to the argument respecting the course of the Niger, that I should clear up some of his errors regarding the positions of Ghana (his Ginea) and Melli.
Leo says, p. 248, 249, that the merchants of his country (I conceive he means Barbary) call the country in question, Gheneoa; that its proper inhabitants call it Genni: but the Portugueze, and other Europeans, Ginea.[120] He says that it is situated to the west of Tombuctoo, that is between Tombuctoo and Gualata:[121] that it has an extent of several hundred miles along the Niger, even to the place where it discharges itself into the sea. Again, says he, the kingdom of Melli borders on Ginea, southward; and on the west, are vast forests, which extend to the sea. And finally, he places the kingdom of Gago to the east of Melli.
Now nothing is more certain, than that the space on the west of Tombuctoo and Gago, is occupied by nations, very different from those of Ginea (by which Ghana is to be understood) and Melli: as also that the space assigned by Leo, to Ginea, is a remarkably dry, sandy, country; being either adjacent to, or forming a part of the Sahara: whereas Ginea is described by him to be a tract, which, during the inundations of the Niger, in July, August, and September, is inclosed like an island.
It is however not improbable, that Leo, who it appears had visited Tombuctoo (but who certainly never saw the Niger, which is about 12 miles beyond it), might confound the city of Jenné, which is situated in a small island in the Niger, and to the west of Tombuctoo, with the kingdom of Ghana (his Ginea), on the east: but as to Melli, that is quite out of the question, in respect of any mistake of the like kind; and could only be placed on the west of Gago, in order that it might preserve its southerly position in respect of Ginea. Thus one mistake seems to have produced the other.
The position of Ghana (or Ginny according to Mr. Matra), at 40 journies to the eastward of Tombuctoo, has been already detailed, in [page lix.] And this is, no doubt, the Ginea intended by those, from whom Leo collected his information respecting the country itself, whose geography he has so much erred in.
The kingdom of Melli had been reported to Cadamosta, when he made inquiries concerning the interior of Africa, about the year 1455. He was told that Tombuctoo, (whose general position was not ill described to him, at about 60 journies inland from Arguin,[122]) was supplied with mineral salt from Tegazza, 40 journies to the westward. That the same salt mine supplied Melli, 30 journies beyond Tombuctoo, the salt passing through the latter place.[123] (We must here suppose that the capital of Melli, called by the same name as the country, is meant as the term of this journey). Hence we should naturally look for Melli on the eastward of Tombuctoo, as will presently appear, and not on the SW, as is expressed in Astley.[124] No doubt, SE was meant: for Edrisi has a city of the name of Malel, at 10 journies to the south of Berissa,[125] and 12 from the city of Ghana: and this position actually falls at 30 journies to the ESE of Tombuctoo; agreeing to the distance reported by Cadamosta.
But Edrisi does not call the country Melli, but Lamlem. However, it can be no other than the Melli of Leo, and Cadamosta: for Edrisi says (p. 8 and 11), that it is situated to the south of Ghana and Berissa, and has on the east the country of Wangara (Vancara), which agrees to the tract in which Malel is situated. Hartmann supposes, (p. 39,) with great appearance of truth, that Lamlem is a transposition of Melli: and I have met with similar instances in the translation of Arabic words and numbers. Thus Leo’s ideas were evidently wrong, respecting the situations of Ghana and Melli; which lie to the eastward of Tombuctoo, although he places them to the west. The place of Melli is occupied, in his description, by Guber (which Mr. Beaufoy learnt, was to the south of Wangara); whilst that of Ghana remains unoccupied; unless we suppose it to be included in the empire of Tombuctoo, which is implied (p. 254), when he speaks of Wangara (Guangara) as being troubled on the west by the King of Tombuctoo, and on the east by him of Bornou: and as he also speaks of Tombuctoo as the largest empire in Nigritia, (p. 4.)
In the position of Wangara,[126] he is right; for it lies between Zanfara, and Bornou: but he seems not to have known that it was intersected by the Niger, and formed of its alluvions, as Edrisi points out to us.[127] But Leo learnt one important particular as a merchant, that the southern quarter of it, produced gold, in abundance. As I shall have occasion to speak more fully of this country, when the course of the Niger comes under consideration, it will be unnecessary to say more of it, in this place.
Kassina is removed by Leo, from the banks of the Niger, its proper situation, far inland, to the east of Cano, or Ganat,[128] (p. 253.) This is another proof of his writing from hearsay. Kassina is not heard of, in Edrisi; it no doubt was included in Ghana, at that day.
Leo is silent respecting Tokrur or Tekrur. This appears to have been the metropolis of the great central empire of Africa, in the time of Edrisi and Abulfeda; and must have existed in later times; as the Tukorol, to whose prince the Portugueze sent an ambassador about the year 1493, may be taken for the same place. It may, however, have been swallowed up in the empire of Tombuctoo, which was founded after the time of Edrisi, and before the date of Leo’s writing. But as the city of Tombuctoo gave name to the empire, so might Tokrur; and this latter may have fallen so much to decay, as to be little known in the present times: and this may account for Mr. Park’s not being able to learn any tidings of it. And finally, as Leo had not heard of Houssa, we may conclude that it is a city of a yet later date; and which may possibly have superseded Tokrur. Such a fluctuation of names, serves as much to confound geographers in the political division of Africa, as the various opinions of those who have written on the physical geography, do, respecting the relative position of places, and the courses of its rivers.
Remarks on the Positions of the Salt Mines in the Great Desert.
Edrisi understood that all the salt consumed in the kingdoms of Nigritia (particularly along the course of the Niger), was brought from Ulil, situated at 16 journies to the westward of Sala, and erroneously supposed by him to be an island, situated in the ocean, near the mouth of the Niger.[129] But by the situation, one would suppose that the salt mines of Aroan, 10 journies to the NNW of Tombuctoo, and in the road to Morocco, were meant; and from whence Tombuctoo is at present supplied. It is not easy to guess how an inland salt mine should have been mistaken for an island, in the ocean: but it is certain that both Edrisi and Abulfeda, supposed the Niger to discharge itself into the sea, near the meridian of Tombuctoo. Ibn Al Wardi[130] speaks of Oulili, as the principal city of Soudan (or Nigritia), situated on the sea coast, and having extensive salt works, from which salt was carried to the other states of Nigritia.
Mr. Park mentions the city of Walet, capital of Beeroo, which may perhaps be the Oulili intended by Ibn Al Wardi;[131] but it has no salt pits; for the inhabitants fetch salt from Shingarin, six journies to the northward of it:[132] and Walet is more than 24 journies from Sala, instead of 16, as stated by Edrisi.
Cadamosta and Leo, in the third and fourth centuries after Edrisi,[133] say, that the people of Tombuctoo had their salt from Tegazza, 40 journies to the westward of that city; and that the salt was carried so far to the east as Melli, which is opposite to Kassina. By Tegazza, Tisheet,[134] the salt mine of Jarra seems to have been meant; but is far short of 40 journies from Tombuctoo. Now, if in the 12th century, salt was procurable so near to Tombuctoo as Aroan, or Shingarin (the salt pits of Walet), why should they have fetched it from a place 30 or 40 days distant, in the 15th and 16th? This requires explanation: for Edrisi states very particularly that salt was carried from Ulil in boats along the Niger, and distributed amongst the nations on its banks, from Sala to Kauga![135]
Mr. Beaufoy, quoted as above, says,[136] that there is a salt lake, or lakes, in Bornou; from whence Agadez, Kassina, and certain states on the south of the Niger, are supplied. This at least implies that there are no salt mines in the Desert, in the quarter east of Tombuctoo.
Table of the principal latitudes and longitudes in the Map.
| In the map. | By M. Fleurieu. | Con. deTemps. | Bruce. | |||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Latitude. | Longitude. | Longitude. | ||||||||||
| * | Cadiz | 36° | 21′ | N | 6° | 19′ | W | 6° | 19′ | |||
| C. Spartel | 35 | 48 | 5 | 57 | 6 | 2 | 5 | 54 | ||||
| C. Cantin | 32 | 33 | 9 | 15 | 9 | 11 | ||||||
| C. de Geer | 30 | 28 | 9 | 54 | 10 | 31 | 9 | 53 | ||||
| C. Bajador | 26 | 20 | 14 | 17 | 14 | 49 | 14 | 28 | ||||
| * | I. Ferro | 27 | 51 | 17 | 37 | 17 | 37 | |||||
| C. Blanco | 20 | 47 | 16 | 58 | 16 | 58 | ||||||
| * | C. Verd | 14 | 48 | 17 | 34 | 17 | 35 | |||||
| † | C. Palmas | 4 | 30 | 7 | 41 | |||||||
| † | I. St. Thomas | 0 | 18 | N | 6 | 37 | E | |||||
| Tunis | 36 | 44 | 10 | 20 | ||||||||
| Tripoly | 32 | 54 | 13 | 15 | 13 | 20 | ||||||
| Mourzouk | 27 | 48 | 15 | 3 | ||||||||
| * | Suez | 30 | 2 | 32 | 28 | |||||||
| Cairo | 30 | 3 | 31 | 20 | 31 | 29 | ||||||
| Koseir | 26 | 8 | 34 | 8 | *31 4 | |||||||
| Sennar | 13 | 35 | 33 | 30 | 30″ | |||||||
| Source of the Nile inAbyssinia | 10 | 59 | 36 | 55 | *36 55 | |||||||
| † | C. Guardafui | 11 | 43 | 51 | 12 | |||||||
| Syene | 24 | — | 33 | 30 | *33 30 | |||||||
* The longitudes thus marked, are from celestial observation, either at the place, or in the vicinage.
† From timekeepers: the two first by Capt. Price, the latter by Capt. Richardson.
[92]Mr. Bruce reckoned 44½ hours of the caravan (with camels) between Kosire and Kuft (that is Coptos), near Ghinna: Mr. Irwin 46 from Kosire to Banute, situated at the Nile, at five hours above Ghinna. The camel’s rate is 2½ British miles by the road: consequently less than two G. miles in direct distance.
M. Savary had much the same idea of the distance; for he reckons it 33 French leagues. (Vol. ii. letter 2.) But his map has 70 G. miles only: Pocock’s 90.
Mr. Irwin reckons the bearing WNW from Kosire to Ghinna; doubtless by compass. The variation might be 13 to 14 degrees; whence Ghinna would bear W 9° N from Kosire: Banute, which is stated to be about five hours to the south of Ghinna, will therefore by this account bear 1°½ N of W from Kosire. Mr. Irwin was certainly very near the mark; though a little too much northerly. It appears that Banute is in lat. 25° 47′ 30″ in D’Anville, and is 8 min. N of Negada; at which place, Mr. Bruce observed the latitude to be 25° 53′ 30″. Consequently D’Anville is 14 min. too far south in this part. Apply this to Banute, and we have 26° 1′ 30″. Kosire lies in 26° 8′, and Banute is then to the south of it, in reality, by several minutes. At Syene, Mr. Bruce’s latitude is 11 min. north of D’Anville’s. Not to go into extremes, I have taken Banute at 5 min. S of Kosire, Ghinna 3 min. N of it; or 26° 11′. D’Anville places Ghinna in 26° 1′. It was of importance that these parallels of the places should be adjusted.
[93]The principal authorities are the following:
| M. Niebuhr reckoned between Suez and the Lake of the Pilgrims, situated at 6,9 G. miles E 38 N from Cairo, | 28h | 40m |
| M. Volney, | 29 | — |
| Dr. Pocock, | 29 | 15 |
| mean | 28 | 58 |
| Add from the Lake to Cairo, as it is usually reckoned, | 3 | — |
| or say 32 hours | 31 | 58 |
But as there are (besides the just mentioned 3 hours, in a direction of about 40° from the general line of direction) 3¼ hours more between Suez and Ajerud, at much the same angle, a considerable reduction of the direct distance must take place, probably about 1¾ hour: whence there remains 30¼. And as Dr. Shaw states the general report of the distance to be 30 hours, it may be conceived that this is the actual distance, by the shortest route, which leaves the Lake and Ajerud to the north. And for these, 59 G. miles direct may be allowed. M. D’Anville allowed 60.
[94]That is, M. D. places it 36 min. west of Cairo: Mr. B. 42 min. east of it.
[95]This must not be confounded with the Neel Abeed, the name applied by the Arabs, to the Niger.
[96]See Mr. Ledyard’s communications in African Association, for 1790,-91. He says 55 journies, or four or five hundred miles. There must, of course, be an error, either in the number of the journies, or of the miles.
[97]Mr. Bruce has fallen into an error, which may mislead those who do not attend to his map. He says, Vol. iii. p. 720, that “the ground declines southward, from the parallel of five degrees north:” but in the map at the end of Vol. v. the waters, as we have just said, begin to flow southward, from the latitude of 8° north. I believe, with him, that farther to the west, the southern slope may not begin short of the 5th degree of latitude.
[98]The day’s journey of Edrisi is taken at 18 Arabic miles, or about 19 G. in direct distance. Strictly speaking, it should be 19,06, as 56⅔ Arabic miles are equal to a degree.
[99]Mr. Beaufoy’s MSS.
[100]Edrisi, p. 39.
[101]Mr. Beaufoy’s MSS.
[102]Af. Assoc. 1793, p. 29.
[103]Af. Assoc. 1790, Q. p. 88; O. p. 133.
[104]Af. Assoc. 1793, page 29, et seq.
[105]Edrisi, p. 39.
[106]By some oversight, Ghana is placed in the map, too far to the east, by 8 minutes of longitude.
[107]I cannot learn with any degree of certainty, from whence the name Guinea, applied to the SW coast of Africa, is derived. Some have supposed it to be from the capital or country of the superior monarch, in the interior of the continent; but it is certain that the same name is applied by Sanuto (in 1588) to the coast between the river Gambia and Cape Mesurada. But Sanuto may have taken the idea from Leo, who was in an error with respect to the matter of Guinea, at large.
[108]Placed as above on the authority of Mr. Bruce.
[109]The chain of bearings and distances is thus ascertained: Edrisi allows 66 journies between Ghana and Dongola: of which 36 are between Ghana and Kauga; 30 between the latter and Dongola (Damokla of Edrisi). Of the thirty six, eighteen are clearly shewn to point eastward; partly by direct information, partly by the context. For Kauga is said to be 10 journies to the east of Semegonda: (Ed. p. 13.) and between the latter and Sekmara, 8 journies, is about E by S and W by N; as we learn from the triangle formed by the points of Sekmara, Semegonda, and Reghebil; the latter place being six days southward from the former, and nine from Semegonda. And lastly, the 18 journies between Ghana and Sekmara, are checked by the bearing and distance between Reghebil and Ghanara; and the distance between Ghanara and Ghana—(See the map). For Reghebil is said (Edrisi, p. 12.) to lie 11 journies to the east of Ghanara, whilst the latter is also 11 journies from Ghana. The context shews, that if Sekmara is 18 journies from Ghana, and Reghebil 6 days south from Sekmara, whilst Ghanara preserves the relative position above described, that Sekmara must lie to the eastward of Ghana.
Kauga ought unquestionably to lie to the southward of Dongola, by 2½ or 3 degrees. For it is 20 journies to the southward of Kuku, which is itself about the parallel of Tamalma, which is 12 journies from Matthan, the capital of Bornou; northward. And this Matthan, as will be shewn presently, lies in the same parallel with Dongola. Thus, I may assume, without any great hazard, an easterly bearing between Ghana and Kauga; E 25 N between Kauga and Dongola.
For the authorities for the above particulars, see Edrisi, pages 10, 11, 12, 13. It would be almost endless to note each separate authority.
[110]The capital of Bornou falls in lat. 24° 32′, lon. 22° 57′. The empire is said to be very extensive; and its sovereign more powerful than the Emperor of Morocco: Af. Assoc. 1790, Q. p. 152; O. p. 229.
[111]Edrisi, p. 14.
[112]Hartmann’s Edrisi, page 63, note (v.)
[113]Article Soudan.
[114]Angimi is a city eight days journey from Matthan, six from Zagua; and towards Nubia and the Niger; consequently to the SE of Matthan; and apparently, not far to the northward of Kauga. Edrisi, p. 14.
[115]Mr. Park mentions a wandering tribe named Libey, whom he had seen in his travels. He compares them, in respect of their habits and modes of life, to gipsies.
[116]Mr. Park mentions a wandering tribe named Libey, whom he had seen in his travels. He compares them, in respect of their habits and modes of life, to gipsies. f From the borders of these lakes, Kassina and other countries are supplied with salt, by the people of Agadez, who annually employ 1000 camels in this commerce. Af. Assoc. 1790, Q. p. 157. 167; and O. p. 236. 251.
[117]Labat, Vol. iii. p. 363.
[118]African Association, 1790; Q. p. 155; O. p. 234.
[119]African Association. See Ledyard’s Communications, in Af. Assoc. 1790, 1791.
[120]Abulfeda, Edrisi, and Ibn Al Wardi call it Ghana, and Ganah.
[121]Gualata is described by Leo to be situated 500 miles from Tombuctoo towards Nun.
[122]He was told that Hoden or Whaden, was 70 leagues east of Arguin, and Tegazza six journies from Hoden. Tombuctoo was 40 days from thence. Astley, Vol. i. p. 20, and 577, 578.
[123]Astley, Vol. i. p. 578. Some Remarks on the Salt Mines are added, at the end of this Chapter.
[124]Ib. Vol. ii. p. 74.
[125]Berissa is 12 journies west of Ghana, Edrisi.
[126]Guangara, (Leo.)
[127]Pages 11, and 12.
[128]It lies to the SSW of Agadez. Af. Ass. Q. p. 221; O. p. 326. M. D’Anville mistook the Cano of Leo (p. 253.) situated at 500 miles from the Niger, for Ghana. But the Ganat of our map, in the road from Fezzan to Agadez, must be meant.
[129]Edrisi, p. 7.
[130]Hartmann’s Edrisi, p. 29.
[131]Oulili, Oualet?
[132]Mr. Park’s MSS.
[133]Edrisi wrote in the 12th century; Cadamosta in the 15th, and Leo in the 16th.
[134]Mr. Park’s MSS.
[135]Edrisi, p. 7.
[136]African Association, 1790; Q. p. 157, 167; and O. p. 236, 251.
CHAPTER VI.
The Subject continued — Course of the River Niger, at large — has no Communication with the Nile — Ptolemy’s Description of it consistent.
The course of the Niger (or Joliba) as we have seen, is established, by ocular demonstration, as far as Silla; and may, I conceive, be admitted, as far as Houssa, about 400 miles farther to the east, on the foundation of the information collected by Mr. Park; since it agrees with the ideas communicated to Mr. Beaufoy, by an intelligent Moorish merchant, who had navigated the river: and as it agrees no less with the report of Mr. Magrah, obtained from Moorish merchants at Tunis; and of Major Houghton from Bambouk. Thus, the first 700 G. miles of its course are from West to East; or rather from WSW to ENE. There remains then, a space of more than double that distance, between Houssa and the nearest part of the Egyptian Nile, near Dongola: and yet more, to the known parts of the White river, or Abiad, the SW branch of the Nile.
I shall divide the matter respecting the course of this river, into three heads. 1. Respecting the continuity of its waters, from Houssa on the west, to Wangara on the east; without regard to the direction of the stream. 2. Respecting the positive direction of the stream. And, 3, concerning its termination.
1. Respecting the Continuity of its Waters.
Edrisi gives the most positive information concerning the course of the Niger, or Nile of the Negroes, from east to west; deriving it from the same lake through which the Egyptian Nile passes; and describing it to terminate at 16 journies west of Sala (that is, a little to the west of the position occupied by Tombuctoo); and near the supposed island of Ulil before mentioned.[137] He thus cuts off about 1000 miles of the breadth of Africa. This was an error common to all the ancient geographers, as well as to those of Arabia: for Ptolemy places the mouth of the Senegal river only two degrees more to the west, than Edrisi does that of the Niger.
Abulfeda believed, with Edrisi, that the Niger had a common source with the Nile, and ran westward.[138]
It is certain, that these opinions furnish no proofs of continuity of course: but it may be supposed that there was some foundation for them; especially as Edrisi says, that salt was carried upon the Niger in boats from the island of Ulil, and distributed to the people on its banks, from Sala to Wangara, and Kauga.[139]
Mr. Matra was told[140] that from Kabra, the port of Tombuctoo, “people sometimes travelled along the river the space of 40 days, to Ginny (Ghana) a large city;” &c.
The Moorish merchant, with whom Mr. Beaufoy conversed, and whom he speaks of as a clear and intelligent man, says, “That the country of Guinea or Ginny, is on the same river with Houssa.” (Mr. Beaufoy’s MSS.)
Edrisi, besides mentioning the cities of Sala, Tokrur, Berissa, Ghana, and Ghanara, all of which he says are situated on the Niger, remarks that the country of Wangara, to which Ghanara belongs, is surrounded by that river,[141] as it would appear by means of a subdivision of its waters; for Gatterer says, that Ghanara, one of its cities, stands on the western arm of the Guin,[142] by which name he mentions the Niger; of which more presently. Now, as Wangara extends, according to Edrisi, 300 Arabic miles along the river,[143] this extent, together with the distance of Wangara from Ghana, eight journies,[144] or 152 miles, makes up 496 G. miles of the course of this river, eastward from Ghana; which being itself 500 miles east of Houssa, there will be 969 miles in direct distance, traced eastward of Houssa: or on the whole, as Houssa is 700 miles below the source, about 1670 G. miles of water-course from the head of the Niger, above Manding, to the eastern extremity of Wangara!
In addition to these authorities, I may state from Leo, that the people of Tombuctoo convey their merchandize in boats (or rather canoes) to Ginea, by the Niger: and that at Kabra they embark for Melli, also. But it is proper to be noticed, that he says (p. 249), that this communication with Ginea takes place in the rainy season only (July, August, September), which would imply a deficiency of water for navigation, at other seasons.[145] Leo, however, certainly never saw the Niger, although he seems to report himself an eye-witness of many particulars relating to it. His intelligence is therefore often to be suspected; though it has probably happened, that being regarded as an original author, instead of a compiler, he has given weight to the systems of Edrisi and Abulfeda, respecting the course of the Niger.
Gatterer, as I have hinted before, calls the Niger, Guin, as well at Tokrur and Ghana, as at Wangara.[146] Now we learn from Mr. Park, that the northern branch of the Niger, above Tombuctoo, passes by the town of Jinbala, and collect also from Labat, that it is named the river of Guin: and here we have the same name extended even to Wangara; a presumptive proof of the prolongation of the same river!
Edrisi speaks of the same Niger, or Nile of the Negroes,[147] also, at Kauga, 10 journies to the east of Wangara; from which we collect that he must have supposed, that this emanation of the Egyptian Nile (as he supposed it to be) first ran to the north, and then turned to the west, through Nigritia. And if any consequence can be deduced from his account of the conveyance of salt, along the Niger to Kauga, where the catalogue of places supplied, ends, we should conclude that he supposed the navigable part of the river, ended at Kauga.
Although there can be no question that a river named Nile (or rather Neel), passes through the quarter of Kauga, Angimi, &c. since Edrisi, Abulfeda, and Leo, speak of it, yet it would be advancing too far within the region of conjecture, in this place, to attempt to decide whether it has any communication with the western waters. I shall therefore reserve this discussion till the last; that it may not be allowed to have any weight in the decision of the great question concerning the continuity and direction of the Niger. Having therefore, as I conceive, established the fact of a continuation of the waters from Manding to Wangara, I shall next proceed to inquire into the authorities for the direction of the stream.
2. The Direction of the Course of the Niger.
Ocular demonstration has shewn, that its course is to the eastward, as far as Silla: and no reasonable doubt can be entertained that it continues the same course to Houssa, 400 miles farther to the eastward, even if the information communicated to Mr. Park, could be doubted. For the Moorish merchant before quoted, told Mr. Beaufoy, that he had himself descended the Joliba, from Kabra to Houssa, although he had forgot the exact number of days employed in the navigation; and whether it was 8 or 10 days, (Mr. Park was told 11). But one circumstance dwelt on his mind; which was, that “by the favour of a brisk wind, they returned to Kabra, against the stream, in as short an interval as they went down.” (This is no new fact to those who are accustomed to inland navigations, even of the natural kind.)
The same Moor added, “that from Houssa, going still with the stream, boats went to Jinnee[148] and Ghinea; near the latter of which was the sea, into which the Neel (or Niger) discharged itself.” That this Ghinea lies to the eastward of Houssa and Tombuctoo, has been already shewn; and that at the distance of 40 land journies.
Edrisi says that the navigation from Ghana to Tirka (which latter is in the way to Wangara, admitted by the same authority to lie to the east of Ghana[149]) is with the stream of the Niger:[150] and if this be true, it ought unquestionably to have the same direction all the way from Houssa.
To these notices, of which the most full and positive, is that of an intelligent person who had visited the spot; are to be opposed the reports of Edrisi and Abulfeda, who wrote at a distance, and from the information of others. As to Leo, although his declaration is in favour of the two Arabian geographers, yet his authority loses all its weight, by his saying that the river runs to the west, by Tombuctoo; a fact which, I presume, no one will be hardy enough to contend for. And it will be found, that his descriptions do most completely do away his declaration: so that his testimony is turned against himself by the very context. For after saying that it runs towards the kingdoms of Ginea and Melli, he says also that they lie to the west, in respect of Tombuctoo. Now the contrary has already been made apparent, in [page lxv,] et seq.; so that in fact, Leo’s descriptions go rather to prove, that the course of the Niger is to the east, than to the west. But after all, his descriptions are the result of hearsay, rather than of observation: and it is plain, that his idea of the course of the Niger, was regulated by the supposed situation of the countries it ran through. Nor had he in his mind the Coast of Guinea, according to our acceptation of the term, when he spoke of the country of Ginea: for in his description of Nigritia he says, that the sea on the south, was unknown[151] to him. Thus the testimonies appear to be clearly in favour of an easterly course of the Niger from Houssa to Wangara. I next proceed to the question respecting its termination.
3. Concerning the Termination of the Niger.
Mr. Beaufoy’s Moor farther says, that “below Ghinea, is the sea, into which the river of Tombuctoo disembogues itself.” This may therefore be considered as the prevailing idea at Houssa and Tombuctoo, at which places he had resided, altogether, about 12 years. By the word sea, it is well known, the Arabs mean to express a lake also; (and even sometimes a river.) Edrisi and others describe large lakes in Ghana and Wangara.[152] And when Leo says that the Niger falls into the sea which borders on Ginea, it is not improbable that the lakes of Ghana and Wangara are meant; and that he was under the same mistake here, in supposing Ginea to be in the neighbourhood of the sea, as in what relates to the position of Ginea itself. In other words, that hearing from the natives, that the Niger expanded itself into lakes below Ghana (or Ginea), he supposed the western ocean to be meant. For it appears (p. 2.) that he had heard, that the Niger had its source in the mountains on the west, and running thence to the east, expanded itself finally into a vast lake: but misled by the supposed situation of Ginea and Melli, he disregarded the information.
He also describes Ginea to be a country annually overflowed by the waters of the Niger, but omits to say the same of Wangara, to which the description more particularly applies. It may be, that as Wangara in more early times formed a part of the empire of Ghana (or Ginea), his ideas might have been collected from some history of those times. I therefore consider his description of Ginea (p. 248), to include both Ghana and Wangara.
Edrisi describes three large fresh water lakes in Wangara, and one in Ghana.[153] The description of Wangara appears to be that of an alluvial country, environed and intersected by the branches of the Niger, and annually overflowed in August. Perhaps August was the time of the highest flood: for Leo says that Ginea (apply this to Wangara, also) is overflowed in July, August, and September; which is indeed the season of swelling of the rivers of the tropical regions, generally.[154]
From this description may be inferred the very low level of the countries of Ghana and Wangara; which level or hollow forms a receptacle for the surplus waters of the Niger, collected during the rainy season:[155] and whose permanent lakes, apparently form receptacles for its waters, during the dry season also. The country of Wangara alone, is said by Edrisi and Ibn Al Wardi to have an extent of 300 miles by 150 (i.e. Arabic miles, of 56⅔ to a degree); and Edrisi’s statement of the distances through it, proves that its length lies in the same direction with the course of the Niger; that is, from west to east[156] Now I have no kind of difficulty in supposing that any river may be evaporated, provided it is spread out to a sufficient extent of surface: and it may be that the level, or hollow, of Wangara and part of Ghana, may present an extent of surface sufficient to produce this effect.[157] And hence these countries must be regarded as the sink of North Africa, at all seasons. No doubt the inhabitants are amply repaid by the fertility produced by the deposition of the waters: but besides this, in the southern quarter of Wangara, they collect an incredible quantity of gold sand, after the waters are gone off, which is carefully sought after, as soon as the rivers regain their beds.[158]
It may be proper to observe, that, according to the estimation which we ought to make, of the quantity of water collected into the Niger, it ought not to bear a proportion to that, collected into the great tropical rivers of Asia; since it receives no branches, but on one side. Of course, it does not drain so great a surface of country, as those which receive them on both sides. Moreover it drains only the tract situated to leeward of the great chain of mountains, which opposes the main body of the clouds; so that more water is discharged by the south, by the rivers of the Coast of Guinea, than by the inland rivers; or by those of Senegal and Gambia.
Ben Ali reported to Mr. Beaufoy, that “it was believed, that the Tombuctoo river terminated in a lake in the Desert.”
On the whole, it can scarcely be doubted that the Joliba or Niger terminates in lakes, in the eastern quarter of Africa; and those lakes seem to be situated in Wangara and Ghana. That it does not form the upper part of the Egyptian Nile, may be collected from two circumstances: first, the great difference of level that must necessarily exist, between the Niger and the Nile, admitting that the Niger reached the country of Abyssinia. For by that time, it would have run at least 2300 G. miles, in a direct line; and near 2000, after it had descended to the level of Sahara, or Great Desert. And the Nile, at the point where the White River (which, alone can be taken for the Niger, if the idea of a junction be admitted) falls in, has more than a thousand such miles to run, before it reaches the sea; and has moreover two or more cataracts to descend, in its way. Besides, Abyssinia is positively a very elevated tract. Mr. Bruce, (Vol. iii. p. 642.) inferred from his barometer, that the level of the source of the Nile, in Gojam, was more than two miles above the level of the sea: and this is repeated in pages 652, and 712; where he says “fully” two miles.
Again, in p. 719, he says, that the flat country of Sennar is more than a mile lower than the high country of Abyssinia, from whence (says he) the Nile runs with “little descent” into Egypt. Hence, the country of Sennar, and the mouth of the White River, of course, may be reckoned about a mile, above the level of the sea. It may however be asked, how this agrees with the idea of an easy descent?[159]
The second circumstance is, that the Niger throughout the tract of Nigritia, in common with all the rivers of that region, swells with the periodical rains, and is at its highest pitch, when the Nile is under the like circumstances in Egypt. Now, considering how long a time it would require, for the waters of Nigritia to reach Egypt, the effect ought surely to be, that instead of what happens, at present, the Nile ought to be kept up to nearly its highest pitch, a very long time after the Niger.
Nor can I believe with P. Sicard and M. D’Anville, that the waters of Kauga and Bornou communicate with the river of Egypt. P. Sicard, it appears, had learnt from a native of Bornou, that the river which passed the capital of his country, communicated with the Nile, during the time of the inundation, by the medium of the Bahr Azrac, or Blue River.[160] M. D’Anville supposed this Nile to be meant for the river of Egypt; and the communication to be effected by the medium of the lake of Kauga; and that it flowed into the White River opposite Sennar. But the space of several hundred miles, which intervenes between this lake and the White River, is very unfavourable to such an opinion; even if the levels could be supposed to allow it. I rather conceive, that Sicard, not aware of the extensive application of the term Neel, or Nile (which in Africa seems to mean any great river), concluded that the river of Egypt alone, could be intended; whereas, I have no doubt but that the river which passes near Kauga and Angimi, was meant: (no matter whether it joins the Niger, or otherwise;) for Edrisi says, that Angimi, in Kanem, situated near the borders of Nubia, is only three journies from the Nile (implied to be that of the Negroes, that is, the Niger).[161] But Angimi must be more than 20 journies to the westward of Dongola, situated on the Egyptian Nile; for Zagua is 20 journies from Dongola to the west,[162] and Angimi 6 from Zagua,[163] in a direction, which at least, increases the distance. Besides, a river of the name of Nile, or Neel, passes by Kauga,[164] which is 30 days to the south-westward of Dongola: and apparently about six from Angimi. Doubtless, this is the Nile intended by the informant of P. Sicard; and can have no relation to the Egyptian Nile, otherwise than in name.
But in the notices respecting the western course of a river, or rivers, from the confines of Nubia, Bornou, &c. I think I perceive abundant reason for belief, that such a course of waters does really exist; although perhaps, not exactly in the mode described.[165] There are notices of a considerable river in Bornou (or Kanem) called the Wad-al-Gazel, or River of the Antelopes, said to join the Nile during the time of the inundations:[166] of another at Kuku, more to the north, said to take its course southward, to the Nile.[167] Also, of a Nile near Angimi and Kauga, before spoken of. And finally, Edrisi[168] says, that a branch of the Egyptian Nile, issuing from the great lake at Tumi, in the south, forms the head of the Niger, or Nile of the Negroes.[169]
Here it is well worth remarking, that Ptolemy describes a branch springing from the SE about the parallel of 10°, and amongst the Nubi, which branch flows into the Gir, a river distinct from the Niger, and appearing to answer to the river of Bornou, &c. This accords exactly with Edrisi’s idea; only that it does not flow from the same lake as the Nile, separated from it only by a mountain. But M. D’Anville, in my idea, interprets very fairly the scope of the intelligence furnished by Edrisi, by supposing that the sources of the two rivers (or the courses of them) were separated only by a ridge of mountains.[170]
Leo says, that the head of the Niger is within 120 miles of the country of Bornou, and in the Desert of Seu:[171] but these notices must be regarded as extremely vague.
Certain it is, that if the eastern waters of Nigritia do not run into the Nile (of which, in our idea, there does not appear a shadow of probability) they must either be evaporated in lakes, or lost in sands. The lake of Kauga offers itself in a position very convenient for the purpose, and a river taken by Edrisi for the Niger, is actually said to pass near it. It has also been shewn, that in the idea of Edrisi, the Kauga lake communicated with the western waters: but whether this is true, or otherwise, it is not possible to decide.
I do not pretend to follow Ptolemy in his description of the rivers in the interior of Africa, with that precision which M. D’Anville has attempted: but this circumstance is clear enough, that he describes them to terminate, as well as to begin, within the continent. The same is to be said of Agathemerus.
It is apparent, that Ptolemy has carried the head of the Niger seven degrees too far to the north, and about four, or more, too far to the west: as also that his inland positions in Africa, as well along the Niger, as at a distance from it, are yet more to the west of the truth. But notwithstanding this geographical error, he proves that he knew many facts relating to the descriptive part of the subject. For instance, he places the source of the Niger, at the mountains of Mandrus, and amongst the nation of the Mandori. It has been seen, that the Joliba rises in the country adjacent to Manding. He marks also a large adjunct to the Niger, from amongst the Maurali, in the south, answering to the river from Malel (or Melli) in Edrisi. To these may be added another particular of agreement. The Caphas mountains of Ptolemy seem meant for those of Kaffaba, a country 9 or 10 journies to the eastward of Kong; 18 short of Assentai (or Ashantee) near the Coast of Guinea.[172] But I have a doubt where to place Ptolemy’s metropolis of Nigritia, in modern geography. His ideas, however, corroborate in the strongest manner, the present system of geography.
Amongst the eastern waters, the Gir of Ptolemy, seems to be recognized in the river of Bornou, and its adjuncts: the Niger, in that of Tombuctoo and Wangara. The Panagra of the same geographer answers to Wangara; and his Libya Palus, which forms the termination of the Niger, eastward, seems to be meant, either for the largest of the lakes, or for the lakes of that country (of which there are several), collectively. It is no impeachment of this opinion, that the Libya Palus is placed so far to the west as the meridian of Carthage, whilst the lakes of Wangara appear to be in that of Cyrene: for Ptolemy carries the river Gir, and the capital of the country which represents Bornou, into the centre of Africa; by which he has shortened the course of the Niger, in the same proportion as he had extended that of the Gir, or Wad-al-Gazel. Modern geographers, to the time of D’Anville, were guilty of the same kind of error: Ghana is about 6° too far west, in Delisle’s map.
It may be best to omit any farther remarks on Ptolemy, at present, and to wait the result of future discoveries. In the mean time, those who are curious to read M. D’Anville’s Memoir on the subject of “the Rivers in the interior of Africa,” will find it in the Mém. Acad. Inscrip. Vol. xxvi.
[137]Page 7 of Edrisi.
[138]Article Soudan.
[139]Edrisi, page 7.
[140]Mr. Beaufoy’s MSS.
[141]Edrisi, p. 7. 11. and 12.
[142]Hartmann’s Edrisi, p. 48, notes.
[143]Edrisi, p. 11.
[144]Ib. p. 11.
[145]If this report of Leo has any particular meaning, and as the river in question carries a great body of water at all seasons, one must suppose that there are falls or rapids, in the river, when in its low state. Time may discover.
[146]Hartmann, p. 32, 48, 51.
[147]Edrisi, p. 7, and 13.
[148]It is certain that one city of Jinné or Jinnee stands above Tombuctoo and Houssa.
[149]Edrisi, p. 9, 11, and 12.
[150]Sionita, p. 12, translates the passage thus: “Via cursum Nili comitante.” And Hartmann, p. 51, “Nilum sequere.”
D’Herbelot understood the same thing; article Vankara.
[151]Leo, p. 2.
[152]Edrisi, p. 10, 12, 13.
[153]See Edrisi, p. 10, 11, 12, 13.
[154]Ib. p. 11, et seq. Hartmann, p. 47, et seq.
[155]And that probably, not only for the western waters, alone, but for the eastern also.
[156]Refer to Edrisi, p. 12, and 13; and to [page lx] above.
[157]There are many instances of this kind. In particular the Hindmend, or Heermund, a very considerable river of Sigistan, terminates in the lake of Zurrah (Aria Palus). The lake is about 100 miles long, and 20 broad, at the widest part; and is said to be fresh. The country it flows through, has all the characteristics of the alluvial tracts, at the mouths of great rivers; as Egypt, Bengal, &c. and is environed by mountains. This was the celebrated tract which is said to have formed the appanage of Rustum; and whose inhabitants, from the relief they afforded to Cyrus, were named Euergetæ by Alexander.
[158]Edrisi, p. 12. D’Herbelot, article Vankara.
[159]Mr. Bruce mentions eight cataracts of the Nile; of which, two only are below Sennar. (Vol. iii. p. 644, et seq.) M. D’Anville marks three within the same space. The principal cataracts are those formed by the abrupt descent from the upper level of Gojam, to the intermediate one of Sennar; one of them being 280 feet. (See page 647.)
[160]Mém. Acad. Inscrip. Vol. xxvi. p. 67. Azrac, or blue, is a term applied to certain rivers, by the Arabs, as Melas, or black, by the Greeks. It is applied in Abyssinia to the eastern branch of the Nile, seemingly in contradistinction to the Bahr Abiad, or White River; whose waters are muddy, whilst those of the other are remarkably clear.
[161]Edrisi, p. 14.
[162]Abulfeda, article Soudan.
[163]Edrisi, p. 14.
[164]Edrisi. p. 7.
[165]I am aware that Mr. Beaufoy was told that the river of Bornou runs to the NW, into the Desert of Bilma. [Af. Assoc. Q. p. 142: O. 215.]
[166]D’Anville, Mém. Inscrip. Vol. xxvi. p. 67.
[167]Edrisi, p. 13.
[168]Ib. p. 16.
[169]It appears that a report of the same kind was communicated to Mr. Beaufoy; namely, that a branch of the Egyptian Nile runs into the Desert of Bilma. (Af. Assoc. Q. p. 138: O. p. 209.) There does not, however, appear to be any foundation for believing that the Nile sends forth any branch above Egypt. All the notices of this kind may with more probability, be referred to a communication with the waters of Kauga.
[170]Mém. Inscrip. Vol. xxvi. p. 66.
[171]Page 2. 255.
[172]Af. Assoc. 1790, ch. xii.
CHAPTER VII.
Observations on the physical and political Geography of North Africa — Naturally divisible into three Parts — Productive in Gold — Boundary of the Moors and Negroes — the Foulahs, the Leucæthiopes of the Ancients.
To our view, North Africa appears to be composed of three distinct parts or members. The first and smallest is a fertile region along the Mediterranean, lying opposite to Spain, France, and Italy (commonly distinguished by the name of Barbary); and which, could we suppose the western bason of the Mediterranean to have once been dry land, (bating a lake or recipient for the surrounding rivers), might be regarded as a part of Europe; as possessing much more of the European, than the African character.
The second part is what may be deemed the body of North Africa, comprized between the Red Sea, and Cape Verd, on the east and west; and having the Great Desert (or Sahara) and its members, on the north; the Ethiopic ocean, and South Africa, on the opposite side. The prominent feature of this immense region, is a vast belt of elevated land, of great breadth, often swelling into lofty mountains, and running generally from west to east, about the tenth degree of latitude. Its western extremity seems to be C. Verd; the mountains of Abyssinia, the eastern. To the north, its ramifications are neither numerous, nor extensive, if we except the elevated tract which turns the Nile to the northward, beyond Abyssinia. Towards the south, no particulars are known, save that a multitude of rivers, some of them very large, descend from that side, and join the Atlantic and Ethiopic seas, from the Rio Grande on the west, to Cape Lopez on the east; proving incontestably that by far the greatest proportion of rain water falls on that side, during the periodical season of the SW winds; which corresponds in all its circumstances with the same monsoon in India.[173]
To the north of this belt, with the exception of the Egyptian Nile, the waters conform generally to the direction of the high land; passing at no great distance (comparatively) from its base, to the right and left: as if the surface of the Sahara had a general dip to the southward.[174] These rivers, moreover, receive all their supplies from the south; no streams of any bulk being collected in the Desert.
In order to produce this effect, there must necessarily be a vast hollow in the interior of Africa, between the high land of Nubia on the east, and Manding on the west; and of which the mountains and Desert form the other two sides. Nor is this state of things unexampled in the other continents. In Asia, the hollow, to whose waters the Caspian and Aral serve as recipients, is no less extensive than the one just mentioned; reckoning from the sources of the Wolga to those of the Oxus; (which latter has ever communicated with the Caspian, either throughout the year, or during a part of it:) the difference is, that in Asia, a greater portion of the hollow is filled up with water, than in Africa.
The third part is of course, the Great Desert (or Sahara), and its members; consisting of the lesser deserts of Bornou, Bilma, Barca, Sort, &c. This may be considered as an ocean of sand,[175] presenting a surface equal in extent to about one half of Europe, and having its gulfs, and bays; as also its islands, fertile in groves and pastures, and in many instances containing a great population, subject to order and regular government. The great body, or western division of this ocean, comprized between Fezzan and the Atlantic, is no less than 50 caravan journies across, from north to south; or from 750 to 800 G. miles; and double that extent, in length: without doubt the largest desert in the world. This division contains but a scanty portion of islands (or oases) and those also of small extent: but the eastern division has many; and some of them very large. Fezzan, Gadamis, Taboo, Ghanat, Agadez, Augela, Berdoa, are amongst the principal ones: besides which, there are a vast number of small ones. In effect, this is the part of Africa alluded to by Strabo,[176] when he says from Cneius Piso, that Africa may be compared to a leopard’s skin. I conceive the reason why the oases are more common here, than in the west, is, that the stratum of sand is shallower, from its surface, to that of the earth which it covers. In other words, that the water contained in that earth, is nearer to the surface; as in most of the oases it springs up spontaneously.[177] Can any part of the cause be assigned to the prevalent easterly winds, which, by driving the finer particles of sand to leeward, may have heaped it up to a higher level in the Sahara, than elsewhere?[178]
The springs, no doubt, have produced the oases themselves, by enabling useful vegetables to flourish, and consequently population to be established. That the Desert has a dip towards the east, as well as the south, seems to be proved by the course of the Niger, also. Moreover, the highest points of North Africa, that is to say, the mountains of Mandinga and Atlas, are situated very far to the west.
The Desert, for the most part, abounds with salt. But we hear of salt mines only, in the part contiguous to Nigritia, from whence salt is drawn for the use of those countries, as well as of the Moorish states adjoining; there being no salt in the Negro countries south of the Niger.[179] There are salt lakes also, in the eastern part of the Desert.
The great ridge of mountains, and its branches, are very productive in gold; but more particularly in the quarters opposite to Manding and Bambouk on the west, and Wangara, on the east. It may perhaps admit of a doubt, whether the gold is brought down at the present time, by the numerous fountains that form the heads of the Niger and Senegal rivers; or whether it has been deposited in the lower parts of their beds, at an earlier period of the world; and that the search, instead of being facilitated by the periodical floods, is, on the contrary, only to be pursued with effect, when the waters are low.
Tombuctoo is reckoned the mart of the Mandinga gold, from whence it is distributed over the northern quarters of Africa, by the merchants of Tunis, Tripoly, Fezzan, and Morocco; all of whom resort to Tombuctoo. Most of it, no doubt, afterwards finds its way into Europe. It may be remarked, also, that the Gold Coast of Guinea (so called, doubtless, from its being the place of traffic for gold dust), is situated nearly opposite to Manding: but whether the gold brought thither, has been washed out of the mountains, by the northern or southern streams, I know not: it may be by both; for a part of the gold of Wangara is brought for sale to the southern coast.[180] Degombah, another country, said to be very productive in gold,[181] must, by its situation, lie directly opposite to the Gold Coast: for it lies immediately to the east of Kong (the Gonjah of Mr. Beaufoy, and the Conche of D’Anville).[182] The people of Fezzan trade to Kong.
The triangular hilly tract above commemorated, ([p. xix.]) which projects northward from the highest part of the belt, and contains Manding, Bambouk, &c. is also abundant in gold; particularly in the quarter towards Bambouk, where it is found in mines; and that chiefly in the middle level.[183] (See also, [p. xix.])
Wangara appears to have been, in its time, nearly as rich as Manding in this metal. The Arabs name it Belad al Tebr, or the country of gold.[184] Edrisi, Ibn al Wardi, and Leo, bear testimony to its riches. They say that the gold is found in the sands, after the periodical inundation of the Niger (which is general over the country) is abated.[185] Leo, alone,[186] says, that the gold is found in the southern quarter of the kingdom; which appears very probable, as the mountains lie on that side: so that it may be concluded, that the gold sand has not been brought there by the Niger, but by smaller rivers that descend immediately from those mountains. That a part of Wangara is bounded by mountains, we learn from Edrisi: for the lake on which Reghebil stands, has mountains hanging over its southern shore.[187]
It is supposed that most of the countries bordering on these mountains, share in the riches contained within them, by means of the rivulets.[188] But considering how amazingly productive in gold, the streams of this region are, it is wonderful that Pliny should not mention the Niger amongst the rivers that roll down golden sands: for although he speaks of the Tagus and others, in different quarters, no African river is mentioned.[189] And yet Herodotus knew that the Carthaginians bartered their goods for gold, with the Africans on the sea coast, beyond the Pillars of Hercules: which was contrived without the parties seeing each other.[190]
The common boundary of the Moors and Negroes, in Africa, forms a striking feature, as well in the moral, as the political and physical, geography of this continent. The Moors, descendants of Arabs, intermixed with the various colonists of Africa, from the earliest to the latest times, overspread the habitable parts of the Desert, and the oases within it: and have pushed their conquests and establishments southward; pressing on the Negro aborigines, who have in several instances retired to the southward of the great rivers; but in others, preserve their footing on the side towards the Desert; according to the strength, or openness of the situation. It is probable, however, that the Negroes, who are an agricultural people, never possessed any considerable portion of the Desert, which is so much better suited to the pastoral life of the Moors. It appears as if matters had not undergone much change in this respect, since the days of Herodotus; who fixes the boundary of the Libyans and Ethiopians, in other words, of the Moors and Negroes, near the borders of the Niger; and he apparently pointed to the quarter in which Kassina or Ghana are now situated.[191]
The Negroes in the western quarter of the continent, are of two distinct races, of which the least numerous are named Foulahs, or Foolahs. These, although they partake much of the Negro form and complexion, have neither their jetty colour, thick lips, or crisped hair. They have also a language distinct from the Mandinga, which is the prevailing one, in this quarter.
The original country of the Foulahs is said to be a tract of no great extent along the eastern branch of the Senegal river; situated between Manding and Kasson; Bambouk and Kaarta: and which bears the name of Foola-doo, or the country of the Foulahs. But whether this be really the case, or whether they might not have come from the country within Serra Leona (called also the Foulah country), may be a question; of which, more in the sequel. The Foulahs occupy, at least as sovereigns, several provinces or kingdoms, interspersed throughout the tract, comprehended between the mountainous border of the country of Serra Leona, on the west, and that of Tombuctoo, on the east; as also, a large tract on the lower part of the Senegal river: and these provinces are insulated from each other in a very remarkable manner. Their religion is Mahomedanism, but with a great mixture of Paganism; and with less intolerance than is practiced by the Moors.
The principal of the Foulah States, is that within Serra Leona; and of which Teemboo is the capital. The next, in order, appears to be that bordering on the south of the Senegal river, and on the Jaloffs: and which is properly named Siratik. Others of less note, are Bondou, with Foota-Torra, adjacent to it, lying between the rivers Gambia and Falemé; Foola-doo, and Brooko, along the upper part of the Senegal river; Wassela, beyond the upper part of the Niger; and Massina, lower down on the same river, and joining to Tombuctoo on the west.
The Moors have in very few instances, established themselves on the south of the great rivers. They have advanced farthest to the south in the western quarter of Africa; so that the common boundary of the two races, passes, in respect of the parallels on the globe, with a considerable degree of obliquity, to the north, in its way from the river Senegal towards Nubia, and the Nile.[192] Mr. Park arranges the Moorish States which form the frontier towards Nigritia, together with the Negro states opposed to them, on the south, in the line of his progress, in the following order:
The small Moorish state of Gedumah, situated on the north bank of the Senegal river, and the last that touches on it,[193] is opposed to the small Negro kingdom of Kajaaga, on the south. This latter occupies the extremity of the navigable course of the Senegal, terminated in this place, by the cataract of F’low.
From this point, the Negro and Foulah states occupy both banks of the Senegal river, to its source: and beyond that, both banks of the Niger (or Joliba) likewise, to the lake Dibbie, situated beyond the term of Mr. Park’s expedition. This space is divided, unequally, between Kasson, a hilly strong country, but of small extent; and which has the Moors of Jaffnoo on the north: Kaarta, a considerable state, which has Ludamar for its opposite (a country held by Ali, a Moorish prince, who is loaded with infamy, on the score of maltreatment of the only two Europeans, who appear to have entered his country, in latter times): Bambara, of still more consideration, which has on the north, the Moorish kingdom of Beeroo, and Massina, a Foulah state.
Here Mr. Park’s personal knowledge ends; but he learnt that Tombuctoo and Houssa, which succeed in order, to Massina, and occupy both sides of the Niger, are Moorish states, though with the greatest proportion of Negro subjects: so that the river may be considered as the boundary of the two races in this quarter.[194]
Of the countries between Houssa and Kassina we are ignorant. The Desert seems to approach very near the river (Niger) in that quarter, whence a Moorish population may be inferred. South of the river, we hear of Kaffaba, Gago, and other Negro countries; but without any distinct notices of position; and beyond these, Melli.
Kassina and Bornou, two great empires on the north of the river, appear to divide the largest portion of the remaining space, to the borders of Nubia; and extend a great way to the north; this region being composed of Desert and habitable country, intermixed; but perhaps, containing the largest proportion of the latter. In both these empires, the sovereigns are Mahomedans, but the bulk of their subjects are said to adhere to their ancient worship; that is to say, the lower orders are, almost universally, Negroes.[195]
From what has appeared, perhaps the boundary of Nigritia, as it respects the Negro population, may be expressed generally, and with a few exceptions, as follows: beginning from the west, the extent upwards of the navigable course of the Senegal river, generally—thence, a line drawn to Silla; from Silla to Tombuctoo, Houssa, and Berissa, along the river Niger; and thence through Asouda, Kanem, and Kuku, to Dongola, on the Nile.
Leo,[196] enumerates 12 states, or kingdoms of Nigritia: but amongst these, he includes Gualata, a tract only 300 miles S of the river Nun: as also, Cano (Ganat), adjacent to Fezzan; and Nubia. Kassina, Bornou, and Tombuctoo, are included, of course.[197]
The kingdom of the Foulahs before mentioned, situated between the upper part of the Gambia river, and the coast of Serra Leona, and along the Rio Grande, has also a Mahomedan sovereign, but the bulk of the people appear to be of the ancient religion. It has been already said, that although they are a black people, they are less black than the Negroes, generally, and have neither crisped hair, nor thick lips: as also that they have a language distinct from the Mandinga. From these circumstances, added to that of situation, they appear clearly to be the Leucæthiopes of Ptolemy and Pliny. The former places them in the situation occupied by the Foulahs; that is, in the parallel of 9 degrees north; having to the north, the mountains of Ryssadius, which separate the courses of the Stachir and Nia rivers (Gambia and Rio Grande), and which therefore answer to the continuation of the great belt of high land, in our geography; in which there is, moreover, another point of agreement, the Caphas of Ptolemy, being the Caffaba of the map.[198]
Ptolemy, by the name, evidently meant to describe a people less black than the generality of the Ethiopians; and hence it may be gathered, that this nation had been traded with, and that some notices respecting it, had been communicated to him. It may also be remarked, that the navigation of Hanno, terminated on this coast; probably at Sherbro’ river, or sound. And as this was also the term of the knowledge of Ptolemy, it may be justly suspected that this part of the coast was described from Carthaginian materials.[199]
Those who have perused the Journal of Messrs. Watt and Winterbottom, through the Foulah country, in 1794, and recollect how flattering a picture they give of the urbanity and hospitality of the Foulahs, will be gratified on finding that this nation was known and distinguished from the rest of the Ethiopians, at a remote period of antiquity.[200]
The contrast between the Moorish and Negro characters, is as great, as that between the nature of their respective countries; or between their form and complexion. The Moors appear to possess the vices of the Arabs, without their virtues; and to avail themselves of an intolerant religion, to oppress strangers: whilst the Negroes, and especially the Mandingas, unable to comprehend a doctrine, that substitutes opinion or belief, for the social duties, are content to remain in their humble state of ignorance. The hospitality shewn by these good people to Mr. Park, a destitute and forlorn stranger, raises them very high in the scale of humanity: and I know of no fitter title to confer on them, than that of the Hindoos of Africa: at the same time, by no means intending to degrade the Mahomedans of India, by a comparison with the African Moors.
THE END.
[173]A ridge stretches to the south, through the middle of South Africa, and forms an impenetrable barrier between the two coasts. M. Correa de Serra informs me, that the Portugueze in Congo and Angola, have never been able to penetrate to the coast of the Indian ocean.
Mr. Bruce learnt (Vol. iii. p. 668.) that a high chain of mountains from 6° runs southward through the middle of Africa. He supposes the gold of Sofala to be drawn from these mountains. (p. 669.)
[174]Circumstances have shewn, that it declines to the eastward also.
[175]“A wild expanse of lifeless sand and sky!” Thomson.
[176]Page 130.
[177]Water is found at the depth of a few feet, in Fezzan (Afr. Assoc. Q. p. 96: O. p. 146). The same is said by Pliny, concerning this quarter of Africa; lib. v. c. 5. But farther to the NW, on the edge of the Desert, and in the country of Wadreag in particular (Shaw, p. 135.), wells are dug to an amazing depth, and water mixed with fine sand, springs up suddenly, and sometimes fatally to the workmen. The Doctor tells us, that the people call this abyss of sand and water, “the sea below ground.” Exactly the same state of things exists in the country round London, where the sand has in several cases nearly filled up the wells. (See Phil. Trans. for 1797.) The famous well lately dug by Earl Spencer (at Wimbledon), of more than 560 feet in depth, has several hundred feet of sand in it.
[178]Ships that have sailed at a great distance from the African coast, opposite to C. Blanco and C. Bojador, have had their rigging filled with fine sand, when the wind blew strong off shore. The accumulation of the Bissago shoals may have been partly owing to this cause also. They occupy the position where a great eddy of the general southerly current takes place, between C. Verd and Sherbro’.
[179]This quality of the African Desert was familiarly known to Herodotus (Melpom. c. 181, et seq.) He knew also that there was salt in abundance in the northern parts. But as it would appear that the inhabitants in that quarter can furnish themselves with salt of a better quality from the sea, the mines are not wrought.
[180]Some writers have said, that there are gold mines in the neighbourhood of Mina, on the Gold Coast; others, that the gold is rolled down by the rivers to that neighbourhood. Both may be true.
It is difficult to conceive any other adequate cause, than the exchange of the gold of the inland countries, for the introduction of so vast a quantity of kowry shells, which are carried from Europe to the Coast of Guinea, and pass for small money in the countries along the Niger, from Bambara to Kassina, both inclusive.
I am informed from authority, that about 100 tons of kowries are annually shipped from England alone, to Guinea. These are originally imported from the Maldive islands into Bengal; and from Bengal into England. In Bengal, 2400, more or less, are equal to a shilling: and yet notwithstanding the incredible smallness of the denomination, some article in the market may be purchased for a single kowry. But in the inland parts of Africa, they are about ten times as dear; varying from 220 to 280. Mr. Beaufoy was told that in Kassina, they were at the rate of about 250: and Mr. Park reports, that they are about the same price at Sego: but cheaper at Tombuctoo, which is about the centre of the kowry country; dearer towards Manding, which is the western extremity of it. Hence they are probably carried in the first instance to Tombuctoo, the gold market: and thence distributed to the east and west. Their circulation seems to be confined between Bornou and Manding. In Bournou they have a coinage of base metal.
[181]African Assoc. Q. p. 176: O. p. 264.
[182]Mr. Park says that Kong signifies mountain, in the Mandinga language; which language is in use from the frontier of Bambara, to the western sea.
[183]Labat, Vol. iv. ch. 2.
[184]Bakui, and Herbelot; article Vankara.
[185]See Edrisi in particular, pages 11 and 12.
[186]Page 254.
[187]Edrisi, page 12.
[188]Mr. Bruce, Vol. iii. p. 647, says the same of the mountains of Dyre and Tegla, which are a continuation of the great belt, towards Abyssinia.
[189]Pliny, lib. xxxiii. c. 4.
[190]Melpomene, c. 196.
Dr. Shaw (p. 302) speaks of the same mode of traffic, at present, between the Moors and Negroes: whence the place of traffic ought to be very far removed from the Mediterranean. There is a similar story related by Cadamosta of the exchange of salt for gold, in Melli; and by Dr. Wadstrom on the windward coast of Guinea.
[191]See Euterpe, c. 32.; and Melpomene, c. 197.
[192]The common boundary of the Moors and Negroes, in the [map] of Mr. Park’s route, is described by a blue line.
[193]The Moors appear to be masters of the northern bank of the Senegal through the greatest part of its navigable course: the Foulahs of the southern bank.
[194]The Emperor of Morocco is said to have held, at one period, the sovereignty of some of the countries on the northern banks of the Senegal and Niger rivers. Labat, Vol. iii. p. 339, speaks of incursions made by his troops.
[195]Af. Assoc. Q. p. 126: O. p. 191.
[196]Page 4.
[197]The Arabs and Moors, call Nigritia by the general name of Soudan. By Belad Soudan, or the country of Soudan, Abulfeda includes all the known part of Africa, south of the Great Desert, and Egypt. With him, Soudan is the southern quarter of the globe. D’Herbelot also allows it a wide range. Affnoo is another term for Nigritia, in use amongst the natives themselves. (See also Proceedings Af. Assoc. Q. p. 164: O. p. 246.)
[198]The Soluentii of Ptolemy may also be meant for the Solimani of Mr. Park.
[199]And it may also have been the scene of the traffic mentioned in [page lxxxvii;] as Dr. Wadstrom speaks of such a custom in this quarter, at the present day.
[200]Pliny (lib. v. c. 8.) also speaks of the Leucæthiopes, but seems to place them on this side of Nigritia. May it not be, that certain tribes of Foulahs were then established, as at present, along the Senegal river!
POSTSCRIPT.
The incident of the Negro Song, related in the 15th Chapter of this work ([p. 198]), having been communicated to a Lady, who is not more distinguished for her rank, than for her beauty and accomplishments; she was pleased to think so highly of this simple and unpremeditated effusion, as to make a version of it with her own pen; and cause it to be set to music by an eminent Composer. With this elegant production, in both parts of which the plaintive simplicity of the original is preserved and improved, the Author thinks himself highly honoured in being permitted to adorn his book; and he laments only that he had not an opportunity of inserting it in its proper place in the body of the work.
A NEGRO SONG,
FROM MR. PARK’S TRAVELS.
I.
The loud wind roar’d, the rain fell fast;
The White Man yielded to the blast:
He sat him down, beneath our tree;
For weary, sad, and faint was he;
And ah, no wife, or mother’s care,
For him, the milk or corn prepare:
CHORUS.
The White Man, shall our pity share;
Alas, no wife or mother’s care,
For him, the milk or corn prepare.
II.
The storm is o’er; the tempest past;
And Mercy’s voice has hush’d the blast.
The wind is heard in whispers low;
The White Man, far away must go;—
But ever in his heart will bear
Remembrance of the Negro’s care.
CHORUS.
Go, White Man, go;—but with thee bear
The Negro’s wish, the Negro’s prayer;
Remembrance of the Negro’s care.
Song from Mr. Park’s Travels The Words by the Dutchess of Devonshire. The Music by G. G. Ferrari.
