LEAD PIPE JOINTS.
Fig. 160.
It has been remarked that after learning how to make “a wipe joint,” everything is easy relating to the plumber’s trade; hence, the importance of the following directions.
To learn the art, previous practice with short pieces of pipe is recommended. This trial piece can be clamped as shown in [Fig. 160] and used over and over until practice has been had.
There are many names for the process of lead joint-making, such as the flow-joint, the ribbon joint, the blown joint, the astragal joint, etc., to express the different positions and uses for which they are needed, but in the main they are made as follows:
1. The lead pipe to be joined is sawn square off with the proper toothed saw—attention being paid to making the end absolutely true, across the pipe.
2. One end of the pipe to be joined is first opened by driving in a wooden wedge, shaped like a plumb-bob, called the “turn pin.” Care should be exercised at this time not to split the end, 1⁄4 inch opening is usually enough, which leaves the pipe as shown at D, [Fig. 161]. Now, clean the internal part of the joint all around the part required for soldering—this cleaning can be done with the plumber’s shave hook or with a pocket knife. To complete this preparation “touch” the part with grease from a tallow candle.
3. Next is the preparation of the male part of the joint. This must be rasp-filed down to fit the enlarged opening. It is important to have a good fit throughout; hence, inside the enlarged opening must be also rasp-filed and the two surfaces to come nicely together before the solder is applied.
4. At this stage a paste called “plumber’s soil” must be applied outside 3 inches from the end of each piece of pipe; this is shown by the line E F in [Fig. 161], also at A B, [Fig. 160]; the line of the soiling should be very even and true in order to assure a workmanlike job and the soiling put on as before stated, 3 to 5 inches beyond the solder line on each side.
As the melting point of lead is 612 degrees or thereabouts, it is necessary to have solder melt at a lower temperature, and that made under the rule given will melt at 440 to 475 degrees.
No tool to a plumber is more important than the cloth used in joint making. To make it, take a piece of new mole skin or fustian, of moderate thickness, 12 inches long by 9 inches wide, fold it up one side 4 inches; then 4 inches again, and again 4 inches; then fold it in the middle, which will make your cloth 4 × 41⁄2 inches, and of 6 thickness. After this is done, sew up the ragged ends to keep it from opening. Then pour a little hot tallow on one side and the cloth is ready for use. In [Fig. 160-a] is shown, H, a hand holding the cloth C in the process of “wiping the joint,” which will now be described.
First place a small piece of paper under the joint to catch the surplus solder D and begin soldering as follows: Take the felt F in the right hand and with it hold the ladle three parts full of solder. To see that it is not too hot hold your hand within 2 inches or so of the solder; if it quickly burns your hand it is too hot; if you can only just hold your hand this distance, use it; but if you cannot feel the heat, the solder is too cold.
When you begin to pour your solder upon the joint do it very lightly and not too much at a time in one place, but keep the ladle moving backward and forward, pouring from E to J, first on one side of the joint to the other and from end to end.
Pour also an inch or two up the soiling, as shown at E to make the pipe of proper temperature, i.e., to the same heat as the solder. The further, in reason, the heat is run or taken along the pipe, the better the chance of making the joint.
Fig. 160-a.
Keep pouring and with the left hand hold the cloth C to catch the solder and also cause the same to tin the lower side of the pipe and to keep the solder from dropping down. This cloth, so important in joint making is elsewhere described. By the process of steady pouring the solder now becomes nice and soft and begins to feel shaped, firm and bulky.
When in this shape and in a semi-fluid condition quickly put the ladle down, and instantly with the left hand shape one side of the joint always beginning at the outsides, or at that part next the soiling; then take the cloth in the right hand and do the other side, finishing on the top; a light run of the cloth all round the joint will, if the solder has not set and you have been quick with your work, give the appearance of a turned joint. After a little practice the joint may be made without changing the cloth from one hand to the other.
The secret of joint making is getting the lead to the heat of the solder and in roughly shaping the solder, while in the semi-fluid state.
Good mechanical fitting is the result of two things—good judgment and a delicate sense of touch.