| LETTER I. |
| | | PAGE |
| Getting under Way—The Gulf Stream—Aspect of the Ocean—Formation of a Wave—SeaGems—The Second Mate, | [11] |
| LETTER II. |
| A Dog at Sea—Dining, with a High Sea—Sea Birds—Tandem of Whales—Speaking aMan-of-War—Havre, | [18] |
| LETTER III. |
| Havre—French Bed-room—The Cooking—Chance Impressions, | [25] |
| LETTER IV. |
| Pleasant Companion—Normandy—Rouen—Eden of Cultivation—St. Denis—Entranceto Paris—Lodgings—Walk of Discovery—Palais Royal, | [30] |
| LETTER V. |
| Gallery of the Louvre—Greenough—Feeling as a Foreigner—Solitude in the Louvre—LouisPhilippe—The Poles—Napoleon II, | [40] |
| LETTER VI. |
| Taglioni—French Acting—French Applause—Leontine Fay, | [48] |
| LETTER VII. |
| Lelewel—Pére La Chaise—Pauvre Marie—Versailles—The Trianons—Josephine'sBoudoir—Time and Money at Paris—Wives and Fuel—One Price Shops, | [53] |
| LETTER VIII. |
| Mr. Cooper—Mr. Greenough—Fighting Animals—The Dog Pit—Fighting Donkey—SportingEnglishmen, | [63] |
| LETTER IX. |
| Malibran—Paris at a Late Hour—Glass Gallery—Cloud and Sunshine—General Romarino—ParisianStudents—Tumult Ended, | [70] |
| LETTER X. |
| French Children—Royal Equipages—French Driving—City Riding—Parisian Picturesque—Beggar'sDeception—Genteel Beggars, | [78] |
| LETTER XI. |
| Madame Mars—Franklin's House—Ball for the Poor—Theatrical Splendor—LouisPhilippe—Duke of Orleans—Young Queen of Portugal—Don Pedro—Close of theBall, | [86] |
| LETTER XII. |
| Champs Elysées—Louis Philippe—Literary Dinner—Bowring and others—The Poles—Dr.Howe's Mission, | [96] |
| LETTER XIII. |
| Club Gambling House—Frascati's—Female Gambler, | [103] |
| LETTER XIV. |
| Tuileries—Men of Mark—Cooper and Morse—Contradictions—Dinner Hour—How toDine Well, | [107] |
| LETTER XV. |
| The Emperor—Turenne—Lady Officer—Gambling Quarrel—Curious Antagonists—Influenceof Paris, | [114] |
| LETTER XVI. |
| Cholera Gaieties—Cholera Patient—Morning in Paris—Cholera Hospital—New Patient—Physician'sIndifference—Punch Remedy—Dead Room—Non-Contagion, | [121] |
| LETTER XVII. |
| Unexpected Challenge—Court Presentation—Louis Philippe—Royal Family at Tea—CountessGuiccioli—Mardi Gras—Bal Costumé—Public Masks—Lady Cavalier—Ballat the Palace—Duke of Orleans—Dr. Bowring—Celebrated Men—Glass Verandah, | [131] |
| LETTER XVIII. |
| Cholera—Social Tea Party—Recipe for Caution—Baths and Happiness, | [146] |
| LETTER XIX. |
| Bois de Boulogne—Guiccioli—Sismondi—Cooper, | [151] |
| LETTER XX. |
| Friend of Lady Morgan—Dr. Spurzheim—Cast-Taking—De Potter—David theSculptor, | [156] |
| LETTER XXI. |
| Attractions of Paris—Mr. Cooper—Mr. Rives, | [162] |
| LETTER XXII. |
| Chalons—Sens—Auxerre—St. Bris—Three Views In One—Chalons, | [166] |
| LETTER XXIII. |
| Boat on the Saone—Scenery above Lyons—Lyons—Churches at Lyons—Monastery, | [173] |
| LETTER XXIV. |
| Travelling Party—Breakfast on the Road—Localities of Antiquity—Picturesque Chateau—FrenchPatois, | [179] |
| LETTER XXV. |
| Arles—The Cathedral—Marseilles—Parting with Companions—Pass of Ollioules—Toulon—Antibes—Coastof Mediterranean—Forced to Return—Lazaretto—AbsurdHindrances—Fear of Contagion—Sleep out of Doors—Lazaretto Occupations—DeliciousSunday—New Arrivals—Companions—End of Quarantine, | [185] |
| LETTER XXVI. |
| Nice—Funeral of an Arch-Duchess—Nice to Genoa—Views—Entrance to Genoa—Genoa, | [204] |
| LETTER XXVII. |
| The Venus—The Fornarina—A Coquette and the Arts—A Festa—Ascension Day—TheCascine—Madame Catalani, | [211] |
| LETTER XXVIII. |
| Titian's Bella—The Grand-Duchess—An Improvisatrice—Living in Florence—Lodgingsat Florence—Expense of Living, | [219] |
| LETTER XXIX. |
| Companions—Scenery of Romagna—Wives—Bologna, | [225] |
| LETTER XXX. |
| Gallery at Bologna—A Guido—Churches—Confession-Chapel—Festa—AgreeableManners, | [231] |
| LETTER XXXI. |
| Regatta—Venetian Sunset—Privileged Admission—Guillotining—Bridge of Sighs—SanMarc—The Nobleman Beggar, | [238] |
| LETTER XXXII. |
| An Evening in Venice—The Streets of Venice—The Rialto—Sunset from San Marc, | [246] |
| LETTER XXXIII. |
| Titian's Pictures—Last Day in Venice, | [251] |
| LETTER XXXIV. |
| Italian Civility—Juliet's Tomb—The Palace of the Capuletti—A Dinner, | [254] |
| LETTER XXXV. |
| Good and Ill-Breeding—Bridal Party, | [259] |
| LETTER XXXVI. |
| Manner of Living—Originals of Novels—Ill, | [262] |
| LETTER XXXVII. |
| The Duke of Lucca—Modena—The Palace—Bologna—Venice Again—Its Splendor, | [266] |
| LETTER XXXVIII. |
| Armenian Island—Agreeable Monk—Insane Hospital—Insane Patients—The Lagune—StateGalley—Instruments of Torture, | [273] |
| LETTER XXXIX. |
| Venice at Evening—The Patriotism of a Noble—Church of St. Antony—Petrarch'sCottage and Tomb—Petrarch's Room, | [281] |
| LETTER XL. |
| Cultivation of the Fields—The Vintage—Malibran in Gazza Ladra—Gallery of theLambaccari, | [287] |
| LETTER XLI. |
| Sienna—Catholic Devotion—Acquapendente—Lake Bolsena—Vintage Festa—MonteCimino—First Sight of Rome—Baccano, | [292] |
| LETTER XLII. |
| St. Peter's—The Apollo Belvidere—Raphael's Transfiguration—The Pantheon—TheForum, | [301] |
| LETTER XLIII. |
| The Falls of Tivoli—Villa of Adrian—A Ramble by Moonlight—The CloacaMaxima, | [307] |
| LETTER XLIV. |
| The Last Judgment—The Music—Gregory the Sixteenth, | [312] |
| LETTER XLV. |
| Byron's Statue—The Borghese Palace—Society of Rome, | [316] |
| LETTER XLVI. |
| The Climate—Falls of Terni—The Clitumnus—A Lesson not Lost—Thrasimene—Florence—FlorentineWomen—Need of an Ambassador, | [320] |
| LETTER XLVII. |
| Chat in the Ante-Chamber—Love in High Life—Ball at the Palazzo Pitti—The GrandDuke—An Italian Beauty—An English Beauty, | [329] |
| LETTER XLVIII. |
| Oxen of Italy—Vallombrosa—A Convent Dinner—Vespers at Vallombrosa—TheMonk's Estimate of Women—Milton's Room—Florence, | [336] |
| LETTER XLIX. |
| The House of Michael Angelo—Fiesole—San Miniato—Christmas Eve—AmusingScenes in Church, | [344] |
| LETTER L. |
| Penitential Processions—The Carlist Refugees—The Miracle of Rain—The MiraculousPicture—Giovanni Di Bologna—Andrea Del Sarto, | [350] |
| LETTER LI. |
| The Entertainments of Florence—A Peasant Beauty—The Morality of Society—TheItalian Cavalier—The Features of Society, | [357] |
| LETTER LII. |
| Artists and the French Academy—Beautiful Scenery—Sacred Woods of Bolsena, | [363] |
| LETTER LIII. |
| The Virtuoso of Viterbo—Robberies—Rome as Fancied—Rome as Found, | [367] |
| LETTER LIV. |
| The Fountain of Egeria—The Pontine Marshes—Mola—The Falernian Hills—TheDoctor of St. Agatha—The Queen of Naples, | [372] |
| LETTER LV. |
| St. Peter's—The Fountains—The Obelisk—The Forum—Its Memories—The Cenci—Claude'sPictures—Fancies Realized—The Last of the Dorias—A Picture by LeonardoDa Vinci—Palace of the Cesars—An Hour on the Palatine, | [379] |
| LETTER LVI. |
| Roman Eyes versus Feet—Vespers at Santa Trinita—Roman Baths—Baths of Titus—Shelley'sHaunt, | [390] |
| LETTER LVII. |
| The Tomb of the Scipios—The Early Christians—The Tomb of Metella—Fountain ofEgeria—Changed Aspect of Rome, | [396] |
| LETTER LVIII. |
| Palm Sunday—A Crowd—The Miserere—A Judas—The Washing of Feet—TheDinner, | [402] |
| LETTER LIX. |
| The Protestant Cemetery—Shelley's Grave—Beauty of the Place—Keats—Dr. Bell, | [409] |
| LETTER LX. |
| Audience with the Pope—Humility and Pride in Contrast—The Miserere at St.Peter's—Italian Moonlight—Dancing at the Coliseum, | [415] |
| LETTER LXI. |
| Easter Sunday—The Pope's Blessing—Illumination of St. Peter's—Florentine Sociability—AMarriage of Convenience, | [421] |
| LETTER LXII. |
| The Correggio—Austrians in Italy—The Cathedral at Milan—Guercino's Hagar—MilaneseCoffee, | [427] |
| LETTER LXIII. |
| Still in Italy—Isola Bella—Ascent of the Simplon—Farewell to Italy—An American—Descentof the Simplon, | [433] |
| LETTER LXIV. |
| The Cretins—The Goitre—First Sight of Lake Leman—Mont Blanc—June in Geneva—TheWinkelreid, | [440] |
| LETTER LXV. |
| American and Genevese Steamers—Lilies of the Valley—A Frenchman's Apology—GeneveseWomen—Voltaire's Room, | [446] |
| LETTER LXVI. |
| The Jura—Arrival at Morez—Lost my Temper—National Characteristics—Politenessversus Comfort, | [452] |
| LETTER LXVII. |
| Lafayette's Funeral—Crossing the Channel—An English Inn—Mail Coaches andHorses—A Gentleman Driver—A Subject for Madame Trollope, | [458] |
| LETTER LXVIII. |
| First Dinner in London—The King's Birth-day—A Handsome Street—Introductionto Lady Blessington—A Chat about Bulwer—The D'Israeli's—Contrast of Criticism—CountessGuiccioli—Lady Blessington—An Apology, | [465] |
| LETTER LXIX. |
| An Evening at Lady Blessington's—Fonblanc—Tribute to American Authors—ASketch of Bulwer—Bulwer's Conversation—An Author his own Critic, | [476] |
| LETTER LXX. |
| Ascot Races—Handsome Men—The Princess Victoria—Charles Lamb—Mary Lamb—Lamb'sConversation—The Breakfast at Fault, | [483] |
| LETTER LXXI. |
| A Dinner at Lady Blessington's—D'Israeli, the Younger—The Author of Vathek—Mr.Beckford's Whims—Irish Patriotism—The Effect of Eloquence, | [491] |
| LETTER LXXII. |
| The Opera House—What Books will pay for—English Beauty—A Belle's Criticism onSociety—Celebrities, | [498] |
| LETTER LXXIII. |
| Breakfast with Proctor—A Story of Hazlitt—Procter as a Poet—Impressions of theMan, | [504] |
| LETTER LXXIV. |
| Moore's Dread of Criticism—Moore's Love of Rank—A generous Offer nobly Refused—ASacrifice to Jupiter—The Election of Speaker—Miss Pardoe—Prices of Books, | [509] |
| LETTER LXXV. |
| Dinner at Lady Blessington's—Scott—The Italians—Scott's Mode of Living—O'Connell—Grattan—Moore'sManner of Talking—Lady Blessington's Tact—Moore's Singing—ACurious Incident—The Maid Metamorphosed, | [517] |