Practical hints to builders and those contemplating building / Facts worth considering relating to foundation, cellar, kitchen, chimney, cistern, brick-work, mortar, heating, ventilation, the roof, and many items of interest to builders.

by National Sheet Metal Roofing Co.

FOUNDATION.

Just how deep to excavate to start the foundation of a house depends on the climate and soil. Always dig trenches below the frost line in any soil. This is sufficient if the subsoil is solid; if the subsoil is not solid, go deep enough to reach solid earth.

In saying this, we are supposing you are not building in a swamp, where it is often necessary to drive piles upon which to start a solid foundation. Stone is generally used for foundation walls where it is convenient, and it makes the best. Hard pressed brick, laid with mortar composed of one part of hydraulic lime and two parts sharp sand, makes a foundation not inferior to stone for all practical purposes. By using the above mortar, dampness will not ascend from the ground to injure the floor joists.

Mortar made from common lime or sand, though commonly used, is objectionable for foundations, because dampness will ascend even above the floor joists, if the floor is not several feet above the ground. It is often the case that hydraulic lime cannot be conveniently had. In that case a layer of slate or coarse paper, well saturated with pitch, laid between the brick seams below the line of joists, will answer the same purpose, and is less expensive.

See that the space between the joists is filled with brick, flush with the under-side of floor boards. This prevents Mr. Rat, or other members of his interesting family, from sitting in these little corners and gnawing into the room above, or climbing between the siding to the upper floors. If this little matter is attended to right, neither rats or mice can enter the house, except through the doors. To keep them from burrowing underneath the foundation walls, let the thickness of one brick project outward at the bottom of the foundation. On burrowing downward, a rat soon reaches this shelf, and following it around till he arrives at the place he started from, becomes disgusted, or is supposed to, as he is not seen about the house again. It is always better to have the foundation broader at the bottom than the thickness of wall intended to be used. This is necessary in all brick houses, unless on a rock bottom.

See that the space under the ground floor is left clear of rubbish before the floor is laid, and grating built in the wall for ventilation. This opening can be closed in winter to secure additional warmth. The cellar is closely related to the foundation; we give some hints on its construction on [page 22].

Fac-simile of Gold Medal awarded to Walter’s Patent Metallic Shingles. These shingles have received twenty-eight other awards for merit in the United States.

The plans and elevations of cottages presented in this book have each been specially prepared for some individual by an eminent architect, and the proportions and details can be relied upon.

Design I.—Front Elevation.

TEN-ROOM, TWO-STORY HOUSE.

Estimated Cost, with Bath and Furnace, $5,000 to $6,000.

Roof to be covered with 10 × 14 Galvanized Tin Shingles; porches with same; tower with 7 × 10, same quality; use attic vents on main roof, and No. 1 Six-foot Finial on apex of tower.

First Floor.

Second Floor.

Design I.—(Elevation, [page 8].)