CHAPTER XII.

The Gräfenburg.

Early rising is absolutely indispensable to the tourist on the Moselle. The steamers constantly start at five or six in the morning, and if walking, the midday heat is too great to be encountered; added to which, he would lose his pleasant rest-time by the sparkling stream.

From Berncastel, then, in the grey of early morning, we wander forth. There are roads on both banks,—small pleasant by-roads, through gardens and vineyards. As we proceed, and begin to think that coffee and new-laid eggs would be no encumbrance, but rather help to balance the system, a faint tinge of crimson appears over the grey hills; little wreaths of mist break away from the mass of watery vapour that clings to the river’s banks, and curl upwards to the light, and then with all its glory comes the