CHAPTER XIV.
Marienburg.
Still surrounded by very high hills, the course of our river winds onwards past Starkenburg, from which the Countess pounced down on the crafty Archbishop. The pathway to Enkirch extends, under fruit-trees, a little way inland, to where the ferry-boat crosses the river.
Passing from Bertrich to Traben one day, we heard, on arriving near Enkirch, sounds of music and lowing of cattle. People in shoals, too, were crossing the river, filling the boats of all sizes. We found it was Fair-day in Enkirch, so, joining a party of brightly-dressed girls, we went over to see all “the fun of the Fair.”
At these Kermes, or Fairs, the amusements are much like those on similar festivals in England. Goods of all sorts are exposed in little old booths, round which the gossiping purchasers stand. Ribbons and gingerbread, shawls, pottery, and cheap dresses, are the principal objects of purchase; also spikes for the back of the hair of unmarried girls, and little embroidered pieces of velvet or cloth.
The amusements consist chiefly in dancing and drinking; there are not many shows, but “the round-about” plays its full part, and even women and men ride, as well as the children.
The dancing is carried on with the greatest possible spirit; in fact, it seems a matter of duty. The “Schottische,” or something very much like it, seems to be the favourite dance; but waltzing in the old style has many adherents.
The girls are smartly dressed, and very lively and pleasant; they and their lovers drink freely of the light wine of the country, and grow a little more lively as the day turns into night.
Strangers at these places are considered as part of the show, and stared at amazingly; but when addressed, the peasants are perfectly civil, and seem glad to talk: they are, for the most part, well informed,—far more so than farm-labourers in England usually are.
When the Kermes is over, the holiday-makers in groups embark in their boats, or walk merrily home, often singing in parts as they go. Some of the men take rather more wine than is good for them, but a quarrel very seldom occurs.
Enkirch.
Enkirch is a small town of 2000 inhabitants, containing nothing remarkable. A great deal of wine is made near there, and its situation is very agreeable; surrounded as it is by hills, the summer showers often break over it, cooling the air, and freshening the sail.
From Enkirch a very pleasant path leads us to Entersburg, famous for the legend of