CHAPTER XVI.
Beilstein.
The steamers that ply on the Moselle are few in number, but very well appointed. Sometimes in summer there is not enough water to enable them to travel, and often a good bump is experienced from some hidden rock. On one occasion we knocked quite a good-sized hole in the bottom, and tore off a large piece of one paddle-wheel; but there was not the slightest danger, as the water was not deep enough for us to sink into it, so we pumped away for some time, and patched up the hole. Shortly after we met the down-steamer, which had likewise started a leak, and we were all much amused at the solemnity with which our captain handed over to his friend a pump, which he knew would not work, as he had tried it in vain in our boat. It was received with gratitude.
There was a waiter on board this boat, whose sole object in life seemed to be to cheat the passengers; his powers of addition were very great, and only surpassed by his effrontery. There is a printed tariff for everything, so his attempts were generally unsuccessful; but, like a gallant fellow, he returned again and again to the charge, nothing abashed; we frequently met this individual, and although he must, after the first two or three attempts, have found out that we were not to be done by him, yet up to our last settlement he tried to overcharge; poor fellow, it was, we suppose, an innocent mania, like some people have for pocketing lace. The living is good, and the boats not at all crowded, which is better for the passengers than the Company; and the officers are very polite.
A straight reach of the river brings us to Neef, which is completely embosomed in trees, and the hills at its back are covered with vines. On the opposite bank the bare rock abruptly approaches the water; from it a road has been blasted.
Neef.
The Government are yearly improving the navigation of our river, by blowing up rocks and damming the stream.
There is a legend connected with Neef, nearly similar to that of St. Brelade’s Church in Jersey, which we have already laid before our readers in Channel Islands. The following is the Moselle version:—