APPENDIX V
Some of the more important streams of the Black Hills are:
(1) Belle Fourche River is in the north with its tributaries: (2) Sand Creek (3) Sundance Creek (4) Redwater Creek (5) Spearfish Creek (6) May Creek (7) Whitewood Creek (8) Bear Butte Creek (9) Owl Creek
Eventually these empty into the Cheyenne River.
Below these come the tributaries of the:
(10) Cheyenne (11) Elk Creek (12) Bolder Creek (13) Rapid Creek, with its tributaries (14) Castle Creek (15) Slate Creek (16) Spring Creek (17) Iron Creek (18) Battle Creek (19) Grace Coolidge Creek (20) French Creek (21) Lame Johnny Creek (22) Beaver Creek (23) Fall River
A drive through the pines in the Black Hills (76)Rise Photo
APPENDIX VI
Camps and Camping
The camps themselves have been taken up to some extent in the body of this book. In 1928 the camps in Rapid City and the northern cities far surpassed those of the southern towns. But the people all over the Hills, especially in the larger cities are fast awakening to the realization that good parks play a tremendous part in the development of their localities. Spearfish, Sturgis, Rapid City, and Deadwood were the first to realize the value of service to their visitors. They have doubtlessly reaped rich reward for their investment, judging from the number of people who use those camp sites night after night.
The cost of the camps is generally fifty cents per car each night. This pays for the site, police protection, lights, in some places shower baths, swimming, laundry, toilets, pure water, firewood, reading room, community cabin, piano, and any other services the locality might afford; especially vegetable, milk, and grocery sales. Some of the camps are almost wonders in themselves.
For those who prefer cabins most of the camps have small log, wood, or tent cabins, variously furnished, accommodating from two to six people or more. These rent at a dollar plus the car fee of fifty cents to a little more for the larger ones. The added convenience of this method of camping is considerable.
Some of the high spots of a life-time occur in our meeting tourists from all parts of the state, nation, and world in these parks. These people range all the way from sheep herders to aviators and from students to corporatic magnates. They are all bent on the same quest, enjoyment of nature’s wonders; and all are congenial. All are as one great family, swapping yarns and experiences and discussing everything from the diet of fishworms to managing an oil company.
Deer in the Custer State ParkRise Photo, Rapid City, S.D.
A Log Cabin With Fire Place
Hotel rates are reasonable in the Hills, for those who prefer the best of conveniences rather than a complete outdoor vacation. Bus lines and train service from these afford excellent sight-seeing facilities. However, for some of us who enjoy freedom and independence the conventional tour seems to savor too much of routine. We lose some of the great pleasure of conquest and discovery of unusual and inaccessible places. And the privacy of our party, our own division of our time for the things that we personally are interested in, are features that make or break the success of the trip.
When one is on a vacation he likes to plan his trip so as best to satisfy his interests and humors. This can best be accomplished when he is his own boss and can give as much or as little time as he wishes to each place of interest. The scheduled tours are excellent, but if a person wishes to spend more time at the mines, in the Needles, seeing hydro-electric plants, or inspecting factories or mills he had best plan his own tour.
The cost of the trip is not excessive if carefully planned. The food is of course an item. Gasoline is another. Camp fees are small. The rest is more or less a matter of individual taste.
The question of camping equipment and clothing is not the easiest one with which we must wrestle.
First, possibly comes the food question. We might profit by carrying meat, butter, vegetables, salt, sugar, flour, pepper, and lard from home or bought in quantity at some point on the way, if we have a way to keep them from the effects of the sun. Carrots, potatoes, milk, lettuce, radishes, bread, fruit, canned goods, coffee, and groceries in general can be bought in or near most of the camps at the prices about the same as the home grocer charges. Carrying too much loads down the car excessively.
Head of Cottonwood Draw, in center of the “Bad Lands.” Layers of Sandstone in Clay Beds. The sandstone protects the clay from weathering and wearing away. The isolated caps are called “Ostrich Heads.”
Camping equipment is an enigma. A light tent, heavy enough to shed rain, large enough to accommodate all, and not having unwieldy poles, is the first essential; unless cabins, when accessible, or hotels are to be used. Second, enough cots should be provided to accommodate all. Car cushions and car beds are sometimes desirable. Probably the best is the small steel folding double camp bed with springs and a thin mattress. But these must be strong and not easily bent. Probably the greatest mistake of campers is to try to sleep with plenty of covering but not enough under them. Especially with the canvas cots the conduction of the cold air from below is considerable. Three woolen blankets or two and a pair of sheets and a mattress will keep two people comfortably warm under ordinary circumstances though some people prefer an extra blanket. High altitude makes the temperature drop perceptibly.
For clothing, khaki, whipcord, or corduroy breeches and high laced leather boots are the ideal, both for men and women for mountain climbing or rambling around through mines, forests, etc. They can be cleaned and they stand rough wear. They look well also. Have a good sunshade hat and khaki shirts; light colored ones or woolen ones are all good. (I prefer the wool, even in the hottest weather, because of its safeguard from cold.) Wear light underclothing of course. By all means have two sets of this type of clothing if the stay is prolonged, as laundry facilities are not always available. Two pairs of hose, well pulled up, are best, as they do not permit chafing of the feet and they protect the feet against bad results of sweat.
If at all possible to carry one without undue wrinkling, a good suit is desirable. There are occasions when one wishes to go to church, or to various other gatherings, dances or the like where a camping outfit is hardly proper.
The car will appreciate having the load well balanced. If a heavy trunk is suspended behind, the tent and cots had better be suspended above the front bumper to balance it. Cover all equipment from dust and rain. Do not pile up equipment in front of the radiator, in the uphill grades the engine will need all the air it can get. Do not barricade any of the car doors; you’ll be sorry if you do. It is best to supply a place for souvenirs. Very few people go out without loading up with “junk” of one sort or another before returning. (Our specialty was several hundred pounds of rocks and minerals.)
Railroad and Wagon Bridge over the Missouri between Pierre and Ft. PierreMiller Photo
Other desirable items of equipment are:
1. Pocket compass 2. Hatchet 3. Field Glasses 4. A good jack knife 5. A trout fishing outfit 6. Bathing suits for all 7. Matches 8. A pressure gasoline camp stove 9. Small water pail 10. Metal kettle, skillet, butcher knives, plates, knives, forks, spoons, cups, saucers 11. Road maps
APPENDIX VII
NEWER DEVELOPMENTS
Since the body of this book has been written several new developments have come up which should be mentioned.
The United States Government has made an appropriation for the continuation of the carving on Rushmore Mountain. This work is going forward now at maximum speed. The form of the first figure is taking shape, and indications are that the work will go forward to rapid completion. When these figures are finished Rushmore will be one of the masterpieces of sculpturing of the world.
At the present time the roads to Rushmore are in very bad shape. Indications are, however, that a graded, surfaced highway will soon lead up to the mountain, the state and the local counties are putting forth every effort to improve the main roads and to make new roads where such are needed. In the not far remote future many of the scenic places not now readily accessible will be opened up to Black Hills visitors.
The South Dakota Department of Agriculture, the Black Hills Commercial Clubs, and various other organizations are calling attention to mining possibilities in the “Hills.” Many organizations from within the state and from outside the state are inquiring into these projects, and many mining leases are being let. Some of the newer developments are aluminum, onyx and glass.
Probably in the near future the Black Hills will have far greater commercial importance than they at present have.
The United States Government has also made a national park out of the Bad Lands. This means that many of the places that were not well known before will be brought to the sightseeing world. It also means that some of the heretofore bad roads will be surfaced, so the Bad Lands will not necessarily have to be left out because of rain. The Bad Lands is a truly remarkable sight, and should not be passed up by visitors to the “Hills.” The added mileage is not great, but the added experience gained through seeing them is enormous.
A typical scene, showing a valley flanked by hills, with prairie beyond, along a creek in Haakon County
Many of the scenic spots in Rapid Canyon and Spearfish Canyon have not been taken up in this volume. Either of these places afford many beautiful sights, especially the latter. The Spearfish Canyon leads clear up to Lead. On the way are many summer camps or taverns. There are many side canyons leading off the main Spearfish Canyon, each of which is in itself worth ascending. The best known of these is Little Spearfish Canyon. All through the Hills these beautiful but not well known canyons and gulches may be found.
The pools below Sylvan Lake is a place that should be visited, either by descent from the roadside marker, north of the lake, or by the path down from Sylvan Lake.
One place of interest not before mentioned is the beautiful “Pheasant Dining Room” at the Game Lodge. In it, just below the ceiling, are thirty-three pheasants, mounted in various positions, standing, flying, and alighting.
The Belle Fourche Roundup has been taken up in some detail. Other events of the summer season are not wanting. Rapid City has its Council of American Indians, Custer its Gold Discovery Day, Deadwood its Days of ’76, Interior its Roundup, and so on. All of these affairs are worth attending. They are first class, demonstrations of the things they convey, and there is a liberal education in them for the person uninformed in their field of thought.
APPENDIX VIII
ROUTES
Sometimes requests are made for lists of things to see on one or two days trips out of Rapid City. Following are four possible trips, calling for one or two days or even a week each:
1. First, the Rapid Canyon trip.
See the School of Mines Museum at the Eastern entrance to the city. From there go through the city past the “Old Mill Tea Room.” Take the Cement plant road from the Bacon camp. After seeing the cement plant return, and turn south at Bacon Camp. Take the road to Municipal Camp. Go through the Municipal Camp, and if possible, take a swim in the pool, over the ridge from the first row of cabins. You’ll remember that swim.
From Municipal Camp take the canyon road to the left of the camp gate. From here ascend the canyon to Lockhart’s Inn. Here, if such is desired, see Lockhart’s moss sculpturing. Go on foot up the track to the Dark Canyon trail. This leads for several miles around crags, up Dark canyon, to Victoria Falls. Go up as far as you wish. Return to Rapid City.
2. Northern Hills.
Take in any of the Rapid City sights before mentioned. Take U. S. 16 west, then north to Crystal Cave. Plan on a half day for this. Then continue north to Sturgis. There see Bear Butte. Climb it, if you feel ambitious. See the United States Military Post, Fort Meade, east of town on S. D. 24. Return, and either take Boulder Canyon, S. D. 24, or U. S. 16 to Spearfish. See the Municipal Camp and United States trout hatchery southwest of town, and possibly the teachers college north of the city. Take a trip up the canyon, at least to Bridal Veil Falls. Stop at Wildcat Cave on the way if you have time. Return to Spearfish, and take U. S. 85 north to Belle Fourche. There see the sugar plant and Orman Dam. Return to Spearfish and on U. S. 16 to U. S. 85 which takes you to Deadwood. See Preacher Smith’s monument on the way. Stop at Pine Crest camp. In Deadwood see Mt. Moriah Cemetery, White Rocks, and Roosevelt Mountain. Return to Deadwood, and then take the road right straight through main street west, over the old mines road to Lead. On this road, (it is gravel surfaced,) see the vestiges of old mines and the old Central City. In Lead see the Homestake Mine. This begins at the Burlington station near the eastern end of main street. After the mine, take Icebox Canyon road to Cheyenne crossing and return or go direct over S. D. 83 to Pactola, and Sheridan. From here take S. D. 40 back to Rapid City over the beautiful Spring Creek road.
Mouth of Dark CanyonRise Photo—Rapid City, S.D.
3. Central Hills.
Again, see Rapid City. Take S. D. 40 through the beautiful Spring Creek valley to Sheridan and Hill City, and then back to Keystone, or you might go directly to Keystone. The roads might be rather rough. At Keystone see Keystone Consolidated Mines, Etta Mine, Juga Mine and a mica mine. Then see Rushmore mountain. Return to Hill City, or the mine trip may be left out. From Hill City take the road to Sylvan Lake. Here see the Lake and the Gorge. Climb Harney Peak, the highest point east of the Rocky Mountains. From Sylvan Lake take the Needles Highway twenty-seven miles, and double back over S. D. 36 to Custer. On the way you see the Tallent monument, and to the right a few paces the Gordon Stockade. See Jewell Cave, gold discovery monument, rose quartz mounted in masonry and the big log cabin and the museum. Take S. D. 36 through Galena, the Game Lodge and Hermosa, to Rapid City. In Hermosa see the church Pres. Coolidge attended.
If the roads are bad take S. D. 79 from the East end of main street when leaving Rapid City, instead of S. D. 40 to the west. Thus you see Hermosa, and President Coolidge’s little church, the Game Lodge, Custer and Sylvan Lake in reverse order, and then double back over the same route when returning.
4. Southern Hills.
Take S. D. 79 through Hermosa, Game Lodge and Galena. Leave 79 and take S. D. 81 south past Mt. Coolidge to Wind Cave. Go through this. Drive on to Hot Springs. See Cascade Springs and Cascade Falls. Ask the way at any filling station. See the petrified wood and petrified moss over the track east of the Municipal Camp. Take some of it with you. See Evans camp, and swim in Evans Plunge before you leave. Visit the old soldiers’ home. Take the same route back, or go west to Custer when you reach S. D. 36, and from there take in the Needles, Sylvan Lake, Harney Peak, Hill City, and Sheridan, thence back to Rapid City.
Make it as intensive a trip as your time will permit. If the time is limited some of the places must be left out.
If you wish, you may take the trip through the most interesting places by motor bus. These busses leave Rapid City at short intervals, and their trip is really enjoyable.