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| I. | On the Way to "The Land of the Long Night."—Homesick.—Temptedto Return.—Girls and Boys Say "No; Go on, Go on,Paul."—Decide to Continue my Journey.—Winter ComingOn.—Don Warmer Clothing.—From Stockholm North. | [1] |
| II. | Snow Land.—A Great Snowstorm.—FearfulRoads.—Snow-ploughs.—Losing the Way.—Intelligence of theHorses.—Upset in the Snow.—Difficulty of RightingOurselves.—Perspiring at 23 Degrees below Zero.—HousesBuried in the Snow. | [9] |
| III. | Halt at a Farmhouse.—Made Welcome.—A Strange-lookingInterior.—Queer Beds.—Snowed In.—Exit through theChimney.—Clearing Paths.—I Resume my Journey.—ReachHaparanda. | [17] |
| IV. | Good Advice from the People of Haparanda.—Warned against StillColder Weather.—Different Costume Needed.—Dressed as aLaplander.—Lapp Grass for Feet Protection. | [29] |
| V. | What the Arctic Circle is.—Description of the Phenomenon of theLong Night.—Reasons for its Existence.—The Ecliptic andthe Equinoxes.—Length of the Long Night at DifferentPlaces. | [36] |
| VI. | Fine Weather Leaving Haparanda.—Windstorms succeed.—AFinlander's Farm.—Strange Fireplace.—Interior of aCow-House.—Queer Food for Cattle.—Passing the ArcticCircle. | [40] |
| VII. | Skees, or the Queer Snowshoes of the North.—How They AreMade.—Learning to Use Them.—Joseff's Instructions.—HardWork at First.—Going Down Hill.—I Bid Joseff Good-bye. | [48] |
| VIII. | A Primitive Steam Bath House.—How the Bath wasPrepared.—What are the Twigs for?—I Ascertain.—Rollingin the Snow.—Fine Effect of the Bath. | [56] |
| IX. | How the Laps and Finns Travel.—Strange-lookingSleighs.—Different Varieties.—LassoingReindeer.—Description of the Reindeer. | [60] |
| X. | Harnessing Reindeer.—The First Lessons in Driving.—ConstantlyUpset at First.—Going Down Hill with Reindeer.—Thrown Outat the Bottom.—Queer Noise Made by Reindeer Hoofs. | [66] |
| XI. | The Last Days of the Sun.—Beginning of the Long Night.—AMighty Wall of Ice.—The Long Night's Warning Voice—TheAurora Borealis and its Magnificence. | [73] |
| XII. | The Snow Getting Deeper.—Lapp Hospitality.—A LappRepast.—Coffee and Tobacco Lapp Staples.—Babies inStrange Cradles.—How the Tents are Made.—Going to Sleepwith the Mercury at 39° Below. | [77] |
| XIII. | Toilet with Snow.—A Lapp Breakfast.—Lapp Dogs. Talks withmy Lapp Friend about the Reindeer.—Their Habits andVarious Forms of Usefulness. | [89] |
| XIV. | Moving Camp.—Another Great Blizzard.—A RemarkableSight—Deer Getting their Food by Digging the Snow.—HowReindeer are Butchered. | [99] |
| XV. | Watching for the Reappearance of the Sun.—The Upper Rim FirstVisible.—The Whole Orb Seen from a Hill.—Days of SunshineAhead. | [109] |
| XVI. | Wolves the Great Foe of the Lapps.—How the Reindeer areProtected against Them.—Watching for the TreacherousBrutes.—Stories of their Sagacity. | [112] |
| XVII. | In Search of Wolves.—A Large Pack.—They Hold aConsultation.—Their Fierce Attack on theReindeer.—Pursuing Them on Skees.—Killing the Chief ofthe Pack. | [122] |
| XVIII. | Great Skill of the Lapps with Their Skees.—Leaping overWide Gullies and Rivers.—Prodigious Length of TheirLeaps.—Accuracy of Their Coasting.—I Start Them by Wavingthe American Flag. | [129] |
| XIX. | We Encounter More Wolves.—My Guide Kills Two with hisBludgeon.—A Visiting Trip with a LappFamily.—Extraordinary Speed of Reindeer.—We Strike aBoulder.—Lake Givijärvi.—Eastward Again. | [136] |
| XX. | The Lapp Hamlet of Kautokeino.—A Bath in a Big Iron Pot.—AnArctic Way of Washing Clothes.—Dress and Ornaments of theLapps.—Appearance and Height of theLapps.—Givijärvi.—Karasjok. | [142] |
| XXI. | Leave Karasjok still Travelling Northward.—The RiverTana.—River Lapps.—Filthy Dwellings.—On the Way toNordkyn.—The Most Northern Land in Europe. | [150] |
| XXII. | Leave Nordkyn.—Frantic Efforts of the Reindeer to Keep theirFooting on the Ice.—The Bear's Night.—Foxes andErmines.—Weird Cries of Foxes.—Building SnowHouses.—Shooting-boxes.—Killing Foxes.—Traps forErmines.—A Snow Owl. | [155] |
| XXIII. | Jakob Talks to Me about Bears.—The Bear's Night.—Watchinga Bear Seeking for Winter Quarters.—They Are VerySuspicious.—I Tell a Bear Story in my Turn. | [165] |
| XXIV. | Preparations for Crossing the Mountains to the ArcticOcean.—Decide to Take the Trail to the Ulf Fjord.—Housesof Refuge.—A Series of Terrific Windstorms in theMountains.—Lost.—Gloomy Reflections.—A Happy Reunion. | [170] |
| XXV. | A Dangerous Descent.—How to Descend the Mountains.—The MostPerilous Portion of the Journey.—Exhaustion of theReindeer.—All Safe at the Bottom.—Arrival at the Shore ofthe Arctic Sea. | [183] |
| XXVI. | Sail on the Arctic Ocean.—The Brig Ragnild.—Ægir andRan, the God and Goddess of the Sea.—The Nine Daughtersof Ægir and Ran.—Great Storms.—Compelled to Heave To. | [190] |
| XXVII. | A Dark Night at Sea.—Wake of the Ragnild.—Thousandsof Phosphorescent Lights.—A Light Ahead.—An ArcticFair.—A Fishing Settlement.—How the Cod are Cured.—Fishand Fertilizer Fragrance. | [199] |
| XXVIII. | Among the Fishermen.—Their Lodgings and How TheyLook.—What They Have to Eat.—An Evening of Talk aboutCod, Salmon, and Herring.—The Immense Number of Fish.—ASnoring Match. | [205] |
| XXIX. | Departure for the Fishing Banks.—Great Number ofBoats.—More than Five Thousand Oars Fall into the Water atthe Same Time.—Quantities of Buoys and Glass Balls.—ANotable Catch of Cod. | [211] |
| XXX. | A Great Viking Sea Fight.—Svein King of Denmark, Olaf King ofSweden, Erik Jarl of Norway, against King Olaf Tryggvassonof Norway.—They Lie in Ambush.—Magnificent Ships.—TheLong Serpent.—Ready for the Fight.—The Attack.—TheJarn Bardi.—Defeat of Olaf Tryggvasson. | [219] |
| XXXI. | Sailing along the Coast of Finmarken.—Hammerfest, the MostNorthern Town in the World.—Schools.—Fruholmen, the MostNorthern Lighthouse in the World.—Among the SeaLapps.—Men and Women Sailors. | [227] |
| XXXII. | A Sea Lapp Hamlet.—Strange Houses.—TheirInteriors.—Summer Dress of the Sea Lapps.—PrimitiveWooden Cart.—Animals Eat Raw Fish.—I Sleep in a SeaLapp's House.—They Tell Me to Hurry Southward. | [232] |
| XXXIII. | Comparison of Finmarken with Alaska.—The Two Lands MuchAlike.—What Must be Done forAlaska.—Colonization.—Importation ofReindeer.—Protection of Fisheries.—Houses of Refuge. | [241] |
| XXXIV. | Preparation to Leave the Arctic Coast.—Great Danger ofEncountering Melting Snow, or Rivers Made Dangerous by theIce Breaking.—Reindeer Come.—Farewell to the SeaLapps.—I Leave for More Southern Land. | [244] |
| XXXV. | We Enter a Birch Forest.—The Reindeer are SoonFagged.—Sleep on the Snow.—The Rays of the Sun Meltthrough the Snow.—Great difficulty in Travelling.—MeetHerds of Reindeer.—Reindeer Bulls Fight Each Other. | [249] |
| XXXVI. | Variable Weather.—Snowy Days.—An Uninhabited House ofRefuge.—Animals Changing the Color of their Fur.—MikelTells Me about a Bear.—Killing the Bear.—Hurrying on overSoft Snow and Frozen Rivers.—The Ice Begins toBreak.—Pass the Arctic Circle. | [256] |