APPENDIX A.
Previously to entering into the detail of the following coast-directions, in which it has been attempted, for the sake of a more easy reference, to collect all the nautical information under one general head, it may be proper to premise that Captain Flinders, in the account of his voyage,* has given two very useful chapters upon the winds and weather that may be experienced upon the various coasts of this continent; as well as information respecting its general navigation and particular sailing-directions for the outer passage from Port Jackson through Torres Strait, by entering the reefs at Murray Island. From these chapters Captain Horsburgh has arranged, in his valuable work on the Hydrography etc. of the Indian Ocean, a set of sailing-directions and other nautical information** that will be found useful for the navigation of the southern and eastern coasts of this continent.
(*Footnote. Volume 1 book 1 chapter 11 and volume 2 book 2 chapter 11.)
(**Footnote. Horsburgh's Indian Directory volume 2 pages 493 and 515.)
APPENDIX A. SECTION 1.
OF THE WINDS AND CURRENTS, AND DESCRIPTION OF THE PORTS, ISLANDS, AND COAST BETWEEN PORT JACKSON AND BREAKSEA SPIT.
EAST COAST.
The south-east trade cannot be said to blow home upon that part of the coast of New South Wales, which lies between Breaksea Spit and Port Jackson, except during the summer months when winds from that quarter prevail and often blow very hard; they are then accompanied by heavy rains and very thick weather: generally however from October to April they assume the character of a sea-breeze and, excepting during their suspension by south-easterly or westerly gales, are very regular. In the month of December strong south-easterly gales are not uncommon; and in February and March they are very frequent.
In the month of December hot winds from the north-west will sometimes last for two or three days, and are almost always suddenly terminated by a gust of wind from the southward. The most prevailing winds, during all seasons, are from the south, and are probably oftener from the eastward of that point than from the westward. The current always sets to the southward, and has been found by us on several occasions to set the strongest during a South-East gale. The general course of the current is in the direction of the coast, but this is not constant; for, between Port Stevens and to the southward of Port Jackson, it sometimes sets in towards it. In a gale from the South-East in the month of December 1820, it must have been setting as much to the westward as South-West. This should be attended to, particularly in south-easterly gales, and an offing preserved to provide against the wind's veering to East-South-East and East by South, which is often the case; and then the current, setting upon the weather-bow, will place the vessel, in a dark night, in considerable danger. The rate of the current is generally about one mile per hour, but it sometimes though rarely runs at the rate of nearly three knots.
To the eastward in the space between New South Wales and New Caledonia the current sets to the North-West, which carries a great body of water into the bight between the former and New Guinea; but as Torres Strait offers but a very inconsiderable outlet the stream is turned, and sets to the southward until it gradually joins the easterly current which, from the prevalence of westerly winds, is constantly running between Van Diemen's Land and Cape Horn.
The tides in this interval are of little consequence and in few places rise higher than six feet at the springs, excepting where they are affected by local circumstances.
There are but few places of shelter upon the east coast between Port Jackson and Breaksea Spit: Captain Flinders points out Broken Bay, Port Hunter for small craft, Port Stephens, Shoal Bay for vessels not exceeding fifty tons, and Glass House (Moreton) Bay. There are however other anchorages that might be resorted to in the event of being thrown upon a lee shore, which are equally good with Port Hunter, Shoal Bay, and Glass House Bay.
There is an anchorage behind Black Head to the north of Point Stevens which Lieutenant Oxley discovered to be an island; Port Macquarie also affords shelter for small vessels; and on the north side of Smoky Cape there is good shelter from southerly or south-easterly winds: but the whole of these, excepting Broken Bay, are only attainable by small vessels. A large ship must keep an offing; and as the coast is not at all indented the wind must blow very hard, and the ship sail very badly, to be placed in danger. Wide Bay however is a very good port, and affords a safe and secure shelter; the anchorage being protected by a reef which fronts it.
PORT JACKSON.
The Lighthouse, or Macquarie Tower, is in latitude 33 degrees 51 minutes 11 seconds South and longitude 4 minutes 29.8 seconds east of Sir Thomas Brisbane's Observatory at Sydney, or 151 degrees 19 minutes 45 seconds East of Greenwich. It is a revolving light and may be seen at the distance of ten leagues. The Inner South Head bears from it North 20 degrees West* and is distant about two thousand five hundred yards. The North Head bears from the Inner South Head North 53 degrees East by compass, about two thousand four hundred and forty yards; and the narrowest part of the entrance, which is between the Inner North and South Heads, is a little more than eight hundred yards, so that there is abundance of room to work in should the wind blow out of the Port. On arriving off the lighthouse, steer in between the North and South Heads until you are past the line of bearing of the Outer North, and the Inner South Heads: then haul round the latter, but avoid a reef of rocks that extends for two hundred yards off the point, and steer for Middle Head, a projecting cliff at the bottom of the bay, until the harbour opens round the Inner South Head; you may then pass on either side of the Sow and Pigs; but the eastern channel, although the narrowest, is perhaps the best; but this, in a great measure, depends upon the direction of the wind. The eastern channel is the deepest. The Sow and Pigs, or Middle Ground, is the only danger in Port Jackson: it is a bank of sand and rocks, of about eight hundred yards in length, by about three hundred and fifty in breadth: its length being in the direction of the harbour; a very small portion of it is dry, and consists of a few rocks, upon which the sea almost always breaks; they are situated upon the outer end of the shoal, and are in the line of bearing of the Outer North and the Inner South Heads. The south-western tail of the bank is chiefly of sand, with rocks scattered about it; but, on the greater portion of it, there is twelve feet water; it gradually deepens to three and a quarter fathoms, which is beyond the rocky limits of the shoal. To sail through the Western Channel, which is from one-third to half a mile wide, steer towards George's Head, a high rocky head, about three quarters of a mile above Middle Head, keeping it in sight upon the larboard bow, and the sea horizon open between the points of entrance, until you are within the line of bearing between a small sandy beach on the western shore and Green Point; the latter is a grassy mound, the south head of Camp Cove. Then steer for George's Head, and gradually round it: when you have passed the line of bearing between it and Green Point, and opened the sandy beach of Watson's Bay, steer boldly up the harbour. In rounding Point Bradley, there is a rocky shelf that runs off the point for perhaps one hundred yards. Pass on either side of Pinch-gut Island, and, in hauling into Sydney Cove, avoid a rocky reef that extends off Point Bennelong for rather more than two hundred yards into the sea.
To sail through the Eastern Channel, or to the eastward of the Sow and Pigs, haul round the Inner South Head until the summit of the Inner North Head is in a line with the inner trend of the former, bearing by compass North 23 1/2 degrees East; then steer South-South-West until you have passed Green Point, when the course may be directed at pleasure up the harbour.
In turning to windward, go no nearer to the Sow and Pigs than three and a quarter fathoms, unless your vessel is small; nor within two hundred yards of the shore, for although it is bold in most parts close to, yet there are some few straggling rocks off the south point of Watson's Bay, and also some round Shark's Island. There is good anchorage in all parts of the harbour, when within Middle and the South Heads. There is also anchorage in North Harbour, but not to be recommended, for the swell sometimes rolls into the mouth of the harbour; no swell can, however, affect the anchorage between Middle Head and the Sow and Pigs.
SYDNEY COVE is nearly half a mile deep, and four hundred yards wide, and will contain more than twenty ships swinging at their moorings. The shores are bold to, and, excepting the rocky shoals that extend off Point Bennelong and Point Dawes, ships may approach very near.
On the eastern side of the cove is a convenient place for heaving down: it belongs to the government, but merchant ships may use it, by paying a small sum according to the length of time it is engaged. Wood and water are easily obtained from the north shore of the port; the former may be cut close to the beach; the latter is collected in tanks, and, excepting during a very dry season, is always abundant.
The tide rises occasionally at the springs as much as eight feet, but six feet is the general rise; it is high water at Sydney Cove at half past eight o'clock, but at the heads, it precedes this time by a quarter of an hour. The variation of the magnetic needle observed on shore by Lieutenant Roe:
at Sydney Cove in 1822, to be 8 degrees 42 minutes East,
at Garden Island 9 degrees 6 minutes East,
at Camp Cove 9 degrees 42 minutes East.
As all navigators are, or ought to be, supplied with Captain Horsburgh's Indian Directory, it has not been thought necessary to descant further upon the nature of the winds and currents of the east coast; since this subject has been so fully treated upon, in the above valuable book, in the section that commences at page 501.
Captain Horsburgh has also described the entrance of Botany Bay at page 502, and of Broken Bay, at page 505. According to Lieutenant Jeffreys, R.N., who commanded the hired armed transport Kangaroo, the latter harbour has a bar stretching across from the south to the north head, on which there is not less than five fathoms water.
PORT HUNTER is situated fifty-nine miles North 22 degrees East (true) from the entrance of Port Jackson. There is a lighthouse at its southern entrance, and pilots are established who come off to vessels that arrive. The entrance is round the Nobby (latitude 32 degrees 56 minutes, longitude 151 degrees 43 1/4 minutes) an insulated rock: and the passage is indicated by keeping two lights, that are placed at a distance from each other at the wharf, in a line: the anchorage is about two hundred yards from the wharf in three fathoms. The shoals on the west side are dangerous, and several vessels have been wrecked upon them in going in. The above information is from a plan drawn by Lieutenant Jeffreys, in the Hydrographical Office at the Admiralty: it was drawn in the year 1816; since which a portion of the labour of the convicts has been employed in building a breakwater, or pier, from the south entrance to the Nobby Rock, which will tend to direct the stream of tide through the channel, and also protect it from the surf and swell, which, during a south-east gale, must render the harbour of dangerous access. The town was formerly called King's Town, but it has since been changed to that of Newcastle, and the appellation of the Coal River has partly superseded the more legitimate name of Port Hunter.
PORT STEPHENS is easy to enter, but not to sail from, unless the wind is fair, on account of the shoals that are near its entrance. Point Stephens is in latitude 32 degrees 46 1/2 minutes, longitude 152 degrees 9 minutes 45 seconds.
BLACK HEAD is an island, behind which there is very good anchorage; the head is in latitude 32 degrees 38 minutes 20 seconds. Between Black Head, and the hills called the Brothers, are WALLIS' Lake, in latitude 32 degrees 11 minutes 50 seconds, HARRINGTON'S Lake, in 32 degrees 0 minutes, and FARQUHAR'S Lake, in latitude 31 degrees 54 minutes; they were discovered by Lieutenant Oxley on his return from his land journey in 1819; they have all shoal entrances, and are merely the outlets of extensive lagoons, which receive the streams from the hills, and occupy a considerable space between the coast and the mountains.
In latitude 31 degrees 47 minutes 50 seconds, and at the distance of two miles and a quarter from the shore, is a dangerous reef, on which the sea constantly breaks; it was named by Lieutenant Oxley, who discovered it, the MERMAID'S REEF; it is about a quarter of a mile in extent, and bears South 85 degrees East from the South Brother; a small detached portion of the reef is separated from the principal rock, within which there appeared to be a narrow navigable channel. A quarter of a mile without the latter we found sixteen fathoms water. Round the point under the North Brother Hill, is CAMDEN HAVEN, the particulars respecting its entrance (in latitude 31 degrees 41 minutes, longitude 152 degrees) are not yet known, but it is supposed to be very shoal.
PORT MACQUARIE is the embouchure or the River Hastings; its entrance is about two miles and two-thirds to the North-North-West of Tacking Point. It is a bar harbour, and, like Port Hunter, is of dangerous access, on account of the banks of sand that project from the low north sandy point of entrance, on which the sea breaks and forms sand rollers; these however serve to indicate the edge of the channel, which is about ninety yards wide. The south shore extends in a North-North-West direction from Tacking Point to Green Mound (a remarkable conical shaped hillock) whence the south shore of the entrance trends in nearly a west direction to the narrow entrance opposite Pelican Point.
Between Green Mound and the next projection the bar stretches across towards the sand rollers, and is about one hundred and twenty yards in extent.
The deepest channel over it is within thirty yards of two sunken rocks, the outermost of which bears from Green Mound North 45 degrees West (true) or North 55 degrees West, nine hundred yards. When Green Mound Point and the next point to the southward of it are in a line, you are within a few yards of the shoalest part of the bar. After passing the bar, there are from two to four fathoms water. Since the examination of this harbour, a penal settlement has been formed, and a pilot appointed to conduct vessels in and out. Off the entrance is a high rocky islet, the Nobby, within which the channel is shoal and dangerous to pass. There is good anchorage in four, five, or six fathoms, about half a mile outside of the bar, on a bank of sand, which gradually deepens for three miles to fourteen fathoms, upon any part of which a vessel may anchor to await high water.
Latitude of its entrance 31 degrees 25 minutes 32 seconds South.
Longitude 152 degrees 57 minutes 25 seconds East.
Variation of the compass 10 degrees 11 minutes 0 seconds East.
High water at full and change 8 hours 56 minutes.
Tide rises four to five feet.
The south-east trend of SMOKY CAPE is in latitude 30 degrees 55 minutes 40 seconds, longitude 153 degrees 4 minutes 30 seconds.
TRIAL BAY, so named by Lieutenant Oxley, who anchored in it on a second expedition to examine Port Macquarie previous to its being settled, is a convenient roadstead during southerly winds: it is situated on the north side of Smoky Cape, and affords an anchorage in three fathoms, protected from the sea as far as North-East by East. Fresh water may be procured from a stream that runs over the beach. Four miles to the north of Smoky Cape is an inlet having a bar harbour, on which there is but eight feet water.
SHOAL BAY is the next harbour to the northward: the following description of it is from Captain Flinders (Flinders' Terra Australis, Introduction, cxcv.)
"On the south side of the entrance, which is the deepest, there is ten feet at low water; and within side the depth is from two to four fathoms, in a channel near the south shore: the rest of the bar is mostly occupied by shoals, over which boats can scarcely pass when the tide is out. High water appeared to take place about seven hours after the moon's passage; at which time a ship not drawing more than fourteen feet might venture in, if severely pressed. Shoal Bay is difficult to be found except by its latitude, which is 29 degrees 26 1/2 minutes, but there is on the low land about four leagues to the southward, a small hill somewhat peaked, which may serve as a mark to vessels coming from that direction."
CAPE BYRON, in latitude 28 degrees 38 minutes 10 seconds, longitude 153 degrees 37 minutes 20 seconds. MOUNT WARNING is in latitude 28 degrees 24 minutes, longitude 153 degrees 12 minutes.
THE TWEED is a river communicating with the sea by a bar, on which there is twelve feet water, it is situated about a mile and a half to the north of a small island off Point Danger, which lies in latitude 28 degrees 8 minutes.
In latitude 28 degrees there is a communication with the inlet at the south side of Moreton Bay, insulating the land whose north extremity is Point Lookout. The entrance of this inlet is shoal and only passable for boats.
MORETON BAY.* In addition to the account of this bay by Captain Flinders,** Lieutenant Oxley has lately discovered the Brisbane, a very fine fresh water river that falls into it in 27 degrees 25 minutes latitude, abreast of the strait between Moreton Island and Point Lookout.
(*Footnote. This bay was originally called Glass House Bay, in allusion to the name given by Captain Cook to three remarkable glass house-looking hills near Pumice-stone River; but as Captain Cook bestowed the name of Moreton Bay upon the strait to the south of Moreton Island, that name has a prior claim, and is now generally adopted. A penal settlement has lately been formed at Red Cliff Point, which is situated a little to the north of the embouchure of the Brisbane River.)
(*Footnote. Flinders Introduction cxcvi.)
WIDE BAY, the entrance of which is in latitude 25 degrees 49 minutes, was examined by Mr. Edwardson, the master of one of the government colonial vessels; he found it to be a good port, having in its entrance a channel of not less than three fathoms deep; and to communicate with Hervey's Bay, thus making an island of the Great Sandy Peninsula.
INDIAN HEAD is in latitude 25 degrees 1 minute, and longitude 153 degrees 23 minutes.
APPENDIX A. SECTION 2.
DESCRIPTION OF THE WINDS AND WEATHER, AND OF THE PORTS, ISLANDS, AND COAST BETWEEN BREAKSEA SPIT AND CAPE YORK.
NORTH-EAST COAST.
The south-east trade is occasionally suspended near the shore by north-easterly winds during the months of June, July, and August, the only season that I have any experience of the winds and weather upon the north-east coast; the weather is generally thick and cloudy, and often accompanied with showers of rain, particularly during the two first months.
In the neighbourhood of Breaksea Spit in May, 1819, we experienced a fresh gale from the westward, after which it veered to south-east with thick rainy weather: and in the neighbourhood of Cape Capricorn, in June, 1821, we had a fresh gale from the north-east. Among the Northumberland Islands, we have experienced westerly winds, but they blew in light breezes with fine weather. Even as far as Cape Grafton the wind cannot be said to be steady. To the north of this point, however, the winds are always constant from the southward, and seldom or ever veer to the westward of south, or to the eastward of South-East by East; they generally are from South-South-East: fresh winds cause the weather to be hazy, and sometimes bring rain, which renders the navigation among the reefs in some degree dangerous. In my last voyage up the coast, on approaching Cape York, the weather was so thick that we could not see more than a quarter of a mile ahead; we, however, ran from reef to reef, and always saw them in sufficient time to alter the course if we were in error. In such a navigation cloudy dull weather is, however, rather an advantage than otherwise, because the reefs, from the absence of the glare of the sun, are more distinctly seen, particularly in the afternoon, when the sun is to the westward. Later in the season (August 1820) we had more settled weather, for the wind seldom veered to the southward of South-South-East, or eastward of East-South-East; and this weather accompanied us from Breaksea Spit, through Torres Strait.
The best time for passing up this coast is in April and the beginning of May, or between the middle of August and latter end of October; in the months of June and July, the passage is not apparently so safe, on account of the changeable weather that may be encountered, which to a stranger would create much anxiety, although no real danger. Strict attention to these directions and confidence in the chart, with a cautious lookout will, however, neutralize all the dangers that thick weather may produce in this navigation.
The tides and currents in this part are not of much consequence. The rise of tide is trifling, the flood-tide sets to the North-West, but at a very slow rate. In the neighbourhood of the reefs, the stream sometimes sets at the rate of a knot or in some cases at two knots, but for a small distance it is scarcely perceptible. There appeared rather to be a gentle drain of current to the North-West.
HERVEY'S BAY and BUSTARD BAY have been already described by Captains Cook and Flinders. We did not enter either, so that I have nothing to offer in addition to the valuable information of those navigators (Hawkesworth volume 3 page 113 and 117; and Flinders Introduction cci. and volume 2 page 9 et seq.)
LADY ELLIOT'S ISLAND is a low islet, covered with shrubs and trees, and surrounded by a coral reef, which extends for three-quarters of a mile from its north-east end; the island is not more than three-quarters of a mile long, and about a quarter of a mile broad; it is dangerous to approach at night, from being very low. It is situated thirty miles North 53 degrees West (magnetic) from the extremity of Breaksea Spit (as laid down in Captain Flinders' chart); its latitude is 24 degrees 6 minutes, and its longitude 152 degrees 45 minutes 15 seconds.
BUNKER'S GROUP consists of three islets; they are low and wooded like Lady Elliot's Island, and lie South-East and North-West from each other; the south-easternmost (or 1st) has a coral reef projecting for two miles and a half to the North-East: four miles and a half to the North-West of the north-westernmost (or 3rd islet) is a large shoal, which, from the heavy breakers upon it, is probably a part of the barrier or outer reefs. The centre island (or 2nd) of the group is in latitude 23 degrees 51 minutes 10 seconds, and longitude 152 degrees 19 minutes 5 seconds. Off the south-west end of the 2nd island is a small detached islet connected to it by a reef; and off the north-east end of the 3rd island is another islet, also connected by a coral reef.
The spaces between these islands, which are more than a league wide, are quite free from danger: we passed within a quarter of a mile of the south end of the reef off the 3rd island, without getting bottom with ten fathoms.
RODD'S BAY, a small harbour on the west side of the point to the northward of Bustard Bay, offers a good shelter for vessels of one hundred and fifty tons burden. The channel lies between two sandbanks, which communicate with either shore. In hauling round the point, steer for Middle Head, a projecting rocky point covered with trees, keeping the centre of it in the bearing of about South (magnetic); you will then carry first five, then six and seven fathoms: when you are abreast of the north low sandy point, you have passed the sandbank on the eastern side, the extremity of which bears from the point West 1/4 North about one mile: then haul in East by South, and anchor at about one-third of a mile from the low sandy point bearing North.
In hauling round this point, you must not shoalen your water, on the south side, to less than four fathoms, as the sandbank projects for a mile and a quarter from Middle Head. In the centre of the channel, between Sandy Point and Middle Head, and at about one third of a mile from the former, you will have seven, eight, and nine fathoms water, until it bears North by East when it shoals to five fathoms. The situation of the extremity of the low sandy point upon Captain Flinders' chart (East Coast sheet 3) is in latitude 23 degrees 59 minutes 45 seconds, and longitude 151 degrees 34 minutes 45 seconds. High water takes place at eight hours and a half after the moon's transit.
In standing into Rodd's Bay, the water does not shoalen until you are in a line with the north points of Facing Island and Bustard Bay.
There is a run of fresh water in the bay to the eastward of the low sandy point, but it was not thought to be a durable stream. Wood may be cut close to the beach, and embarked without impediment.
PORT BOWEN. Captain Flinders, in his account of this port, has merely confined himself to the anchorage under Entrance Island (latitude 22 degrees 29 minutes, longitude 150 degrees 45 minutes 30 seconds) which is, at best, but an exposed roadstead. The channel in, on the north side of the island, is free from danger, but, on the south side, between it and Cape Clinton, there is an extensive shoal on which the sea breaks heavily: it was not ascertained whether it is connected with the bank off the south end of the island, but there is every probability of it. The inlet round Cape Clinton affords good anchorage: but in the mid-channel the depth is as much as eighteen fathoms; the sands on the western side of the inlet are steep to, and should be avoided, for the tide sweeps upon them. The best anchorage is in the sandy bay round the inner trend of the cape (latitude 22 degrees 31 minutes 40 seconds, longitude 150 degrees 44 minutes) where both wood and water are convenient. In steering in from sea, haul round the cape, and pass about half to three-quarters of a mile to the north of the high round island, in seven fathoms, avoiding the sandbanks on either side. In passing the inner trend of the cape, the water will shoal to three and three-quarter fathoms, but do not approach too near the point. When you have opened the inlet, steer in, and, having passed the inner cape, haul in to a sandy bay on the eastern side, where you may anchor in eight or nine fathoms at pleasure.
The centre of the shoal in the middle of the port bears North 1/4 East by compass, from the high round island, and North by West 1/4 West when in a line with Entrance Island.
High water appears to take place half an hour later than at Entrance Island, or about 10 hours 40 minutes after the moon's southing (the moon's age being thirteen days). The tide did not rise more than six feet, but it wanted three days to the springs. Captain Flinders supposes the spring tides to rise not less than fifteen feet. The variation of the compass was 9 degrees 5 minutes East, off Cape Clinton, but at Entrance Island, according to Captain Flinders, it was 7 degrees 40 minutes East.
NORTHUMBERLAND ISLANDS. In the direction of North 8 degrees East (magnetic) and five miles and a half from the 3rd Island, is a low rock which, at high water, is very little above the surface of the sea; it is very dangerous because it is in the direct track of vessels steering towards the Percy Isles. It escaped the observation of Captain Flinders.
In the direction of South 42 degrees West (magnetic) and ten miles from the west end of Percy Island Number 1, are some rocks, but I am not aware whether they are covered: they were seen by Lieutenant Jefferies in 1815.
Another patch of dry rocks was seen by me from the summit of a hill at the west end of Percy Island Number 1, whence they bore South 60 degrees West (magnetic) and were supposed to be distant about eight or nine miles. The variation of the compass here is between 7 and 8 degrees East.
The PERCY ISLES have also been described by Captain Flinders; the bay at the west end of Number 1 is of very steep approach and not safe to anchor in, excepting during a south-east wind: the anchorage at Number 2, inside the Pine Islets, is bad, since the bottom is rocky; the ground is, however, clearer more to the southward; on the whole this anchorage is not insecure, since there is a safe passage out either on the north or south sides of the Pine Islets. Wood may be procured with facility, and water also, unless the streams fail in the dry season. Captain Flinders was at these islands at the latter end of September, and found it abundant. The flood-tide comes from the north-east; at the anchorage in the channel, between the pine islets and Number 2, the flood sets to the south, and the ebb to the north; the maximum rate was one and a quarter knot. High water occurred at the latter place two hours and a half before the moon's passage; but on the following day did not precede it more than one hour and a half. Captain Flinders mentions high water taking place on shore at eight hours after the moon's passage. (Vide Flinders volume 2 page 82.) The tide rose twelve feet when the moon was thirteen days old. The north-west end of Number 1 is in latitude 21 degrees 44 minutes 50 seconds, longitude 150 degrees 16 minutes 40 seconds; south-west end of Number 2 is in latitude 21 degrees 40 minutes 50 seconds, longitude 150 degrees 13 minutes.
In passing SHOAL POINT, in latitude 21 degrees 0 minutes 5 seconds, longitude 149 degrees 7 minutes 40 seconds, Captain Cook's ship got into shoal water, and at one time had as little as three fathoms (Hawkesworth volume 3 page 131); and the merchant ship Lady Elliot, in the year 1815, met with a sandbank extending from the island off the point in a north-east direction for ten miles, on one part of which she found only nine feet water.
The Mermaid passed the point at the distance of three miles, and, when the island bore South 68 degrees West, distant two miles and a half, had four and three-quarter fathoms, which was the least water that was found, but, being then high water, five or six feet, if not more, may be deducted, to reduce it to the proper low water sounding. There was no appearance of shoaler water near us, and it is probable that Captain Cook's and the Lady Elliot's tracks were farther off shore. The variation of the compass, six miles east of Point Slade, was 7 degrees 11 minutes East.
CAPE HILLSBOROUGH is a projection terminating in a bluff point in latitude 20 degrees 53 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 149 degrees 0 minutes 15 seconds: being high land, it may be seen seven or eight leagues off. The variation here is 6 degrees 30 minutes East.
The CUMBERLAND ISLES extend between the parallels of 20 and 21 degrees 6 minutes, and consist generally of elevated, rocky islands; they are all abundantly wooded, particularly with pines, which grow to a larger size than at the Percy Isles. We did not land upon any of them; they appeared to be of bold approach, and not dangerous to navigate amongst; they are from six to eight hundred feet high, and some of the peaks on the northern island are much higher.
k l (latitude 21 degrees 5 minutes 40 seconds, longitude 149 degrees 54 minutes 25 seconds) is about three-quarters of a mile in diameter; it is of peaked shape; at three-quarters of a mile off its south-east end there is a dry rocky lump.
k (latitude 21 degrees 0 minutes, longitude 149 degrees 52 minutes 30 seconds) is nearly a mile and a quarter in diameter, and has a considerable reef stretching for more than a mile and a half off both its north-west and south-east ends; on the latter is a small rocky islet.
k 2 (in latitude 20 degrees 58 minutes, longitude 149 degrees 44 minutes 55 seconds) is of hummocky shape; it has also a reef off its south-east and north-west ends, stretching off at least a mile. On the south-east reef is a dry rocky islet.
THREE ROCKS, in latitude 20 degrees 56 1/4 minutes, are small islets of moderate height. All these islands are surrounded by deep water. The variation here is about 6 3/4 degrees East.
k 4, in latitude 20 degrees 53 minutes 10 seconds, and k 4 1/2, in latitude 20 degrees 58 minutes, and the two sandy islets to the westward of them, were seen only at a distance.
l, in latitude 20 degrees 51 minutes 10 seconds, l 1, in latitude 20 degrees 54 minutes 10 seconds, containing two islands, l 3, in latitude 20 degrees 44 minutes l5 seconds, and l 4, in latitude 20 degrees 45 minutes 30 seconds, are also high, but we were not nearer to them than six or seven miles; l 2, in latitude 20 degrees 45 minutes 40 seconds, longitude 149 degrees 33 minutes 55 seconds, is the island on which Captain Flinders landed, and describes in volume 2 page 94; he says, "This little island is of triangular shape, and each side of it is a mile long; it is surrounded by a coral reef. The time of high water took place ONE HOUR before the moon's passage, as it had done among the barrier reefs; from ten to fifteen feet seemed to be the rise by the shore, and the flood came from the northward." The variation near l 2 is 6 degrees 17 minutes East.
m is a high, bluff island, the peaked summit of which, in latitude 20 degrees 46 minutes 35 seconds and longitude 149 degrees 15 minutes 15 seconds, is eight hundred and seventy-four feet high: there are several islets off its south-east end, and one off its north-west end.
SIR JAMES SMITH'S GROUP consists of ten or twelve distinct islands, and perhaps as many more, for we were not within twelve miles of them. On the principal island is LINNE PEAK, in latitude 20 degrees 40 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 149 degrees 9 minutes 10 seconds; it is seven or eight hundred feet high.
SHAW'S PEAK, in latitude 20 degrees 28 minutes, longitude 149 degrees 2 minutes 55 seconds, is on a larger island than any to the southward; it is sixteen hundred and one feet high. The group consists of several islands; it is separated from the next to the northward by a channel five miles wide. In the centre is PENTECOST ISLAND, a remarkable rock, rising abruptly out of the sea to the height of eleven hundred and forty feet. Its latitude is 20 degrees 23 minutes 10 seconds, and longitude 148 degrees 59 minutes 30 seconds.
The northern group of the Cumberland Islands are high, and appear to be better furnished with wood, and more fertile than the southern groups, particularly on their western sides.
The principal peak, in latitude 29 degrees 15 minutes 10 seconds and longitude 148 degrees 55 minutes, is fifteen hundred and eighty-four feet high, and is situated on the largest island, which is ten miles long, and from three to nine broad: it has several bays on either side, and off its south-eastern end are four small islands: beyond them is a range of rocky islets. The northernmost island of this range is the extremity of the Cumberland Islands, as well as the north-eastern limit of Whitsunday Passage; it forms a high, bluff point, in latitude 20 degrees 0 minutes, and longitude 148 degrees 50 minutes 30 seconds, and is of bold approach: on the western side of the island are some low islets.
REPULSE BAY is a deep bight: its shores are low, but the hills rise to a great height. The extremity of the bay was not distinctly traced, but it is probable, upon examining it, that a fresh-water rivulet may be found; and there may be a communication with Edgecumbe Bay.
The Repulse Isles are of small size; they are surrounded by rocks, which do not extend more than a quarter of a mile from them. The summit of the largest island is in latitude 20 degrees 37 minutes 5 seconds, and longitude 148 degrees 50 minutes 30 seconds. Variation 6 degrees 15 minutes East.
Between Capes Conway and Hillsborough the flood-tide comes from the north-eastward, but is very irregular in the direction of the stream. At an anchorage off the island near the latter cape the tide rose twelve feet, but close to the Repulse Isles, the rise was eighteen feet. At the former place, the moon being full, high water took place at about three-quarters past ten o'clock; by an observation the next day at the latter, it was a quarter of an hour later: the maximum rate was about one and a half knot.
WHITSUNDAY PASSAGE, formed by the northern group of the Cumberland Islands, is from three to six miles wide, and, with the exception of a small patch or rocks within a quarter of a mile from Cape Conway, and a sandbank (that is probably dry, or nearly so at low water) off Round Head, is free from danger. The shores appear to be bold to, and the depth, in the fairway, varies between twenty and thirty fathoms; the shoal off Round Head stretches in a North-North-West direction, but its extent was not ascertained.
In steering through the strait, particularly during the flood-tide, this shoal should be avoided by keeping well over to the east shore; for the tide there sets across the strait; it is about a mile and a half from Round Head, in which space the water is ten and fourteen fathoms deep.
Between Round Head (in latitude 20 degrees 28 minutes 30 seconds) and Cape Conway is a bay, where there appeared to be good anchorage out of the strength of the tides; and to the north of Round Head is another bay, the bottom of which is an isthmus of about a mile wide, separating it from an inlet to the westward of Cape Conway. This bay very probably affords good anchorage out of the strength of the tides.
CAPE CONWAY, in latitude 20 degrees 32 minutes, and longitude 148 degrees 54 minutes, is the western limit of the south entrance of Whitsunday Passage; it is a steep point, sloping off to the eastward: immediately on its north side is a small shingly beach, a few yards behind which there is a hollow, containing a large quantity of fresh water. At a short quarter of a mile from the point is a rocky shoal of small size, between which and the shore there is deep water.
PINE HEAD, in latitude 20 degrees 23 minutes, and longitude 148 degrees 51 minutes 40 seconds, is the south-east extremity of a small island that is separated from the main by a passage of about a mile wide, but we did not ascertain whether it is navigable. The head is a high, bluff point, clothed with pine-trees: near it the tide runs in strong eddies, and for that reason it ought not to be approached nearer than half a mile; it appeared to be bold to. There is a sandy bay on its south west side affording a good landing-place; the island is clothed with grass, and thickly wooded: we found no water. The variation was 5 degrees 35 minutes East.
PORT MOLLE, so named by Lieutenant Jeffreys, appeared to trend in for four or five miles: and, probably, to afford a convenient port, as it is well sheltered from the wind, and is protected from the north-east by a group of small islands, thickly wooded. Hence the land trends to the north-west towards Cape Gloucester; the shore was very indistinctly seen, but seemed to be very much indented, and to possess several bays, if not rivers; for the land at the back is very high, and must give rise to several mountain, if not navigable, streams.
MOUNT DRYANDER, whose summit is in latitude 20 degrees 14 minutes 10 seconds, and longitude 148 degrees 30 minutes 55 seconds, forms a small peak, and is visible from Repulse Bay, as well as from the northern extremity of the Cumberland Islands: it is four thousand five hundred and sixty-six feet high; and the hills around it are at least from seven hundred to a thousand feet in height.
The greater part of the water that collects from these hills probably empties itself into Repulse and Edgecumbe Bays, or it may be distributed in lagoons upon the low land that separates them.
At the back of Point Slade there is a high mountainous range extending without interruption to the westward of Mount Upstart. In latitude 21 degrees 1 1/2 minutes, and longitude 148 degrees 36 3/4 minutes is a high-rounded summit, which is visible at the distance of twenty leagues: between this range, which is at the distance of from five to seven leagues from the sea, and the coast, are several ridges gradually lowering in altitude as they approach the shore. In the neighbourhood of Repulse Bay, this mountainous range recedes, and has a considerable track of low land at its base, which is possibly a rich country: from the height of the hills, it must be well watered.
CAPE GLOUCESTER. The point of land that Captain Cook took originally for the cape, is an island of about five miles long and two broad, separated from the true Cape Gloucester by a strait, a mile and a half wide. The island is called Gloucester Island; its summit at the north end is in latitude 19 degrees 57 minutes 24 seconds, longitude 148 degrees 23 minutes 38 seconds: it is eighteen hundred and seventy-four feet high, and its summit is a ridge of peaks: its shores are rocky and steep; and, although the sides of the hills are wooded, yet it has a sombre and heavy appearance, and, at least, does not look fertile. The cape, in latitude 20 degrees 1 minute 50 seconds, and longitude 148 degrees 26 minutes 15 seconds, is the extremity of the mountainous range that extends off Mount Dryander. The variation observed off the island was 7 degrees 11 minutes East.
EDGECUMBE BAY is a deep indentation of the land, the shores of which are very low: its extent was not ascertained, but, by the bearings of some land at the bottom, it is seventeen miles deep; and its greatest breadth, at the mouth, is about fourteen miles. It affords excellent shelter; and between Middle Island (a small rocky islet of a mile and half in extent) and Gloucester Island there is good anchorage in seven fathoms muddy bottom, with protection from all winds. We did not examine the bay farther than passing round Middle Island in six, seven, and eight fathoms, mud. The western side is formed by low islands, that appeared to be swampy, but our distance was too great to form the most distant opinion of them: if the main is not swampy, it must be a rich and interesting country.
HOLBORNE ISLAND is a rocky island, visible about seven or eight leagues, and has three small islets near it: it is in latitude 19 degrees 41 minutes 5 seconds, and longitude 148 degrees 17 minutes 30 seconds.
CAPE UPSTART is the extremity of Mount Upstart, which is so high as to be visible for more than twenty leagues in clear weather: it rises abruptly from a low projection, and forms a long ridge of mountainous land; the north-east end of the summit is in latitude 19 degrees 41 minutes 50 seconds, and longitude 147 degrees 44 minutes 30 seconds. This point separates two deep bays, both of which were of very inviting appearance, on account of the high and broken character of the gullies on either side of Mount Abbott, and it was almost evident that they both terminate in a river. The hills of Mount Upstart are of primitive form, and were judged to be composed of granite. The variation observed off the point was 6 degrees 16 minutes East.
CAPE BOWLING-GREEN is very low, and projects for a considerable distance into the sea: its north-east extremity is in latitude 19 degrees 19 minutes 10 seconds, and longitude 147 degrees 23 minutes East; the mountainous ranges are at least thirty miles in the rear, and, were it not for Mounts Upstart and Eliot, both of which are very visible, and serve as an excellent guide, this part of the coast would be very dangerous to approach, particularly in the night, when these marks cannot be seen, when great attention must be paid to the lead. A ship passing this projection should not come into shoaler water than eleven fathoms; and, in directing a course from abreast of Mount Upstart, should be steered sufficiently to the northward to provide against the current which sets into the bay on the western side of the mount. On approaching the cape, if the soundings indicate a less depth than eleven fathoms, the vessel should be hauled more off, because she is then either a parallel with or to the southward of the cape.
CAPE CLEVELAND (latitude 19 degrees 10 minutes 10 seconds, longitude 146 degrees 57 minutes 56 seconds) like Mount Upstart, rises abruptly from a projection of low land, separating Cleveland Bay from a deep sinuosity that extends under the base of Mount Eliot, a high range with a rounded hill and a peak, the latter being at the south extremity of its summit. Mount Eliot may probably be seen at the distance of twenty-five leagues, if not farther; between it and the hills of Cape Cleveland the land is low, and is probably much intersected by water.
A reef extends from the extremity of Cape Cleveland for four miles to the eastward, but not at all to the northward, so that, with the point bearing to the southward of West 1/2 South a ship is safe: there is a breaker near the extremity of the reef, at about three miles from the point; to avoid which, keep the south end of Magnetical Island well open of the north extremity of the cape.
The peaked summit of MOUNT ELIOT is in latitude 19 degrees 33 minutes 10 seconds, and longitude 146 degrees 54 minutes 25 seconds.
CLEVELAND BAY affords good anchorage in all parts, in four, five, and six fathoms; a considerable flat extends for a mile from the shore on the western side of the cape, and is left dry at half ebb; it fronts a sandy beach that commences at a mile and a half to the south of the cape, and extends to the southward for nearly two miles; over this beach, two or three streams of fresh water communicate with the sea; they take their rise from the hills, and probably are seldom dry.
The most convenient watering-place is near the centre of the beach, a little to the northward of the highest hills. Wood for fuel is plentiful, and grows close to the beach, and may be embarked with facility; the best place is at the north end of the sandy beach, since the boat can be brought nearer to the shore to protect the wooding party.
HALIFAX BAY extends from Cape Cleveland to Point Hillock; it has several islands in it, and is fronted by the PALM ISLANDS, the summit of which is in latitude 18 degrees 43 minutes 5 seconds, longitude 146 degrees 35 minutes 15 seconds: this group consists of nineteen islands, one only of which is of large size, being eight miles long and three wide; it probably affords all the conveniences of a sheltered anchorage, and a good supply of wood and water.
In latitude 18 degrees 49 minutes, nine miles from the shore, and six miles within the island Number 2, is a coral reef, that shows at low water: it appeared to be about two miles long; between it and Number 2 is a wide channel with nine fathoms. The Lady Elliot, merchant ship, in 1815, struck upon a reef in 18 degrees 45 minutes, about four miles from the shore; of which we saw nothing; we anchored within four miles of its position, but, at daylight, when we got underweigh, it might have been covered by the tide.
In 18 degrees 32 minutes and 146 degrees 41 minutes is a reef, on which the San Antonio, merchant brig, struck: its position was not correctly ascertained, as the accident happened in the night.
POINT HILLOCK is in latitude 18 degrees 25 minutes, and longitude 146 degrees 20 minutes; it is a low point projecting to the eastward, under Mount Hinchinbrook.
CAPE SANDWICH is the north-east extremity of the sandy land that stretches to the northward from the base of Mount Hinchinbrook, which is so high as to be visible for eighteen leagues: the mount is topped with a craggy summit, seven miles in length from north to south.
There is a reef that extends for nearly a mile and a half off the cape, having a rocky islet at its extremity. The cape is in latitude 18 degrees 13 minutes 20 seconds, and longitude 146 degrees 16 minutes 40 seconds. The peak at the north end of Mount Hinchinbrook is in latitude 18 degrees 21 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 146 degrees 15.
BROOKE'S ISLANDS lie four miles north from Cape Sandwich; they consist of three rocky islets, besides some of smaller size; the whole are surrounded by a coral reef.
From Cape Sandwich the land extends, low and sandy, in a North-West direction for five miles to a point, which is terminated by a hill. Between this and Goold Island there appears to be a navigable strait leading into Rockingham Bay.
GOOLD ISLAND, the summit of which, formed by a conical hill covered with wood, in latitude 18 degrees 9 minutes 35 seconds, and longitude 146 degrees 9 minutes, is about two miles long: the south-west point of the island is a long strip of low land, with a sandy beach; at the eastern end of which there is a run of water; and fuel may be cut close to the shore. High water takes place at full and change at three quarters past ten.
ROCKINGHAM BAY appears to be a spacious harbour. At the bottom there was an appearance of an opening that may probably communicate with an inlet on the south side of Point Hillock, and insulate the land of Mount Hinchinbrook. There is good anchorage in the bay in four and five fathoms mud, near Goold Island.
The natives are very friendly here, and will come off and visit the ship.
FAMILY ISLES consist of seven small rocky islets, covered with a stunted vegetation.
DUNK ISLAND is remarkable for having two peaks on its summit; the south-east summit is in latitude 17 degrees 58 minutes, and longitude 146 degrees 8 minutes 45 seconds. The variation observed in the offing to the North-East was 5 degrees 41 minutes East.
BARNARD ISLES form a group of small rocky islands extending in a straggling direction for six miles to the south of Double Point. Three miles to the south of the southernmost island, but nearer to the shore, is a reef of rocks which dry at low water.
From DOUBLE POINT (latitude of its summit 17 degrees 39 minutes 50 seconds) to CAPE GRAFTON, the coast is formed by a succession of sandy bays and projecting rocky points. In latitude 17 degrees 31 minutes, in the centre of a sandy bay, is a small opening like a rivulet; and, on the south side of Point Cooper is another; but neither appeared to be navigable for boats. Abreast of Frankland's Islands, and near the south end of a sandy bay of six miles in extent, there is another opening like a river, that, from the appearance of the land behind, which is low and of a verdant character, may be of considerable size. The high mountains to the southward, Bellenden Ker's Range, must give rise to a considerable stream; and it appears very probable that this may be one of the outlets, but the most considerable is, perhaps, that which falls into Trinity Bay round Cape Grafton.
FRANKLAND'S ISLANDS consist of several low islets one of which is detached and of higher character than the others, which are very low, and connected by a reef. The largest island may be seen five or six leagues off; it is in latitude 17 degrees 7 minutes 45 seconds.
The land between this and Cape Grafton is high, and towards the north has several remarkable peaks. The land of Cape Grafton may be readily known, when seen from the southward, by appearing like three lofty islands; the outermost is Fitzroy Island, but the others are hills upon the main. The easternmost of the latter, Cape Grafton, is conspicuous for having two small peaks, like notches, on the west extremity of its summit; it is joined to the westernmost by low land, which also separates the latter from the other hills behind it; and, as this low land is not seen at a distance, the hills assume the appearance of islands.
There is good anchorage in the strait between Cape Grafton and Fitzroy Island, but, with a northerly wind, the better anchorage would be on the south side of the cape. The former is exposed to all winds between North-West and North-East. In the former case the anchor may be dropped in nine fathoms, at a quarter to half a mile from the beach of the island. The north extremity of Cape Grafton is in latitude 16 degrees 51 minutes 20 seconds, longitude 145 degrees 53 minutes 5 seconds; the south-east extreme is in latitude 16 degrees 54 minutes 20 seconds, longitude 145 degrees 55 minutes 15 seconds.
FITZROY ISLAND affords both wood and water; it has a peaked summit. It affords anchorage in the bay on its western side, off a coral beach; the south-west end of which is in latitude 16 degrees 55 minutes 21 seconds, and longitude 145 degrees 56 minutes 21 seconds. Nine miles to the eastward of Fitzroy Island is a small bare sandy island; and, at about seven miles North-East by East from it, there was an appearance of extensive shoals. Variation 5 degrees 10 minutes East.
On the west side of CAPE GRAFTON is a bay, in the centre of which is an island. The bottom is very shoal, but good anchorage may be had with the cape bearing South-East Between CAPE GRAFTON and SNAPPER ISLAND, the centre of which is in latitude 16 degrees 17 minutes 35 seconds, and longitude 145 degrees 27 minutes 40 seconds, is TRINITY BAY; the shores of which were not very distinctly seen. At the south side, and about seven miles within the cape there is an opening that appeared to be extensive, and the mouth of a considerable stream, trending in between high ranges of land, in a direction towards Bellenden Ker's Range.
In latitude 16 degrees 23 1/2 minutes, and longitude 145 degrees 34 minutes is a group consisting of three coral islands; which, being very low, are dangerous to pass in the night.
The offing is said to be strewed with extensive reefs; we saw none beyond Green Island: those that are laid down on the chart are from Lieutenant Jeffrey's account.*
(*Footnote. Much shoal water was seen to the northward of Green Island from the Tamar's masthead. Roe manuscript.)
SNAPPER ISLAND lies off the point which forms the northern limit of Trinity Bay; it is small, and does not supply any water.*
(*Footnote. Ten or eleven miles South 80 degrees East from Snapper Island is the north-west end of a shoal, extending to the South 41 degrees East for sixteen or seventeen miles; the Tamar anchored under it. Roe manuscript.)
The land behind CAPE TRIBULATION may be seen at a greater distance than twenty leagues. It is here that the outer part of the barrier reefs approach the coast, and there is reason to believe that, in latitude 16 degrees 17 minutes 35 seconds, longitude 145 degrees 27 minutes 40 seconds, they are not more than twenty miles from it. The cape has a hillock at its extremity, and a small rocky islet close to the shore that renders it conspicuous: it is fourteen miles beyond Snapper Island. The shore appears to be bold to: at three miles off we had sixteen fathoms.
Ten miles further to the northward is BLOMFIELD'S RIVULET in Weary Bay: it is blocked up by a rocky bar, having only four feet water over it; the anchorage off it is too much exposed to be safe. The river runs up for four or five miles, having soundings within it from three to four fathoms, its entrance is in 15 degrees 55 minutes 50 seconds.
The coast then extends to the north to Endeavour River, and forms a few inconsiderable sinuosities; it is backed by high land, particularly abreast of the Hope Islands. These islands open of each other in a North 39 degrees East direction, and appear to be connected by a shoal; it is however very likely that a narrow passage may exist between them, but certainly not safe to sail through.
Here the number of the coral reefs begin to increase, and great attention must be paid in navigating amongst them; but, with a careful look out from the masthead, and a quick leadsman in the chains, no danger need be apprehended.
Between reef a and the shoal off the south-west Hope Island there is a passage two miles wide, with twelve fathoms: a is about half a mile in diameter, with a few rocks above water; its centre is in 15 degrees 43 minutes 20 seconds, two miles from the shore, and three miles North 55 degrees West from the south west Hope.
b is about a mile and a quarter long, and has a dry rock at its north end, the latitude of which is 15 degrees 39 minutes 20 seconds: it is divided from Endeavour Reef by a channel of nearly a mile wide, and fifteen fathoms deep: abreast of the south end of b, on the western edge of Endeavour Reef, there is a dry rock, in latitude 15 degrees 39 minutes 55 seconds.
ENDEAVOUR REEF is nine miles long; it lies in a North-West direction; the north end, in 15 degrees 39 minutes South, bears due from the North-east Hope.
c is covered, and not quite half a mile in length; its latitude is 15 degrees 32 minutes: it lies four miles from the shore.
d is rather larger, and has some dry rocks on its north end, in latitude 15 degrees 29 minutes 30 seconds. Between c and d and the shore the passage is from three to four miles wide, and in mid-channel the depth is seven and eight fathoms.
On the south side of Point Monkhouse there is a bay having a small opening at the bottom, but not deep enough for ships: it was this bay that Captain Cook first examined in search of a place to repair his ship.
On steering along the shore between Point Monkhouse and the entrance of Endeavour River, the bottom is of sand and of irregular depth. A spit of sand was passed over with only two and a half fathoms on it when the summit of Mount Cook bore South 66 degrees West (magnetic) and the outer extreme of Point Monkhouse South 18 degrees West (magnetic). One mile off shore the shoal soundings continued with two and a half fathoms until it bore South 59 degrees West (magnetic) when the depth was three, and three and a half fathoms.
ENDEAVOUR RIVER. The entrance of this river, in latitude 15 degrees 27 minutes 4 seconds, and longitude 145 degrees 10 minutes 49 seconds,* forms a very good port for small vessels; and, in a case of distress, might be useful for large ships, as it proved to our celebrated navigator Captain Cook, who, it is well known, repaired his ship there after having laid twenty-three hours upon a coral reef.
(*Footnote. The situation of the observatory at Endeavour River was found by lunar distances, taken during my visits to that place in 1819 and 1820, as follows:
Latitude by meridional altitudes of the sun, taken in the artificial horizon, being the mean of twenty-seven observations: 15 degrees 27 minutes 4 seconds.
Longitude by twenty-five set of distances (sun West of first quarter of the moon) containing one hundred and seventeen sights, with the sextant: 144 degrees 52 minutes 16 seconds.
Longitude by thirty set of distances (sun East of first quarter of the moon) containing one hundred and fifty sights, with the sextant: 145 degrees 29 minutes 23 seconds.
Mean, of fifty-five sets: 145 degrees 10 minutes 49 seconds.)
The entrance is formed on the south side by a steep hill, covered with trees growing to the edge of its rocky shore. The north side of the entrance is a low sandy beach of two miles and a quarter in length: at its north end a range of hills rises abruptly, and extends for six or seven miles, when it again suddenly terminates, and is separated from the rocky projection of Cape Bedford by a low plain of sand.
The entrance of Endeavour River is defended by a bar, on which, at high water, there is about fourteen feet; but, at low water, not more than ten feet: the channel over the bar is close to the south side, for the sandbank extends from the low sandy north shore to within one hundred and forty yards of the south shore, and at three quarters ebb (spring tides) is dry.
In steering in for the mouth, upon bringing Point Monkhouse in a line with Point a (the north point of the bay under Mount Cook) you will be in three fathoms; steer in until the south extremity of the low north sandy point is opened of the trend round Point c, when you may haul a little more in, and when point d (which is a point where the mangroves commence) bears South 33 degrees West (magnetic) steer directly for it; this will carry you over the deepest part or the bar, which stretches off from point c in a North 75 degrees West (magnetic) direction; another mark is to keep the trend beyond d just in sight, but not open, or you will be too near the spit: the best way is, having opened it, haul in a little to the southward, and shut it in again: you may pass within ten yards of point d; and the best anchorage is just within it; the vessel may be secured head and stern to trees on the beach, with bow and stern anchors to steady her. No vessel of a greater draught than twelve feet should enter the harbour; and this vessel may even moor in four fathoms within her own length of the shore, with the outer trend just shut in by the mangrove point a. The watering-place is a stream that empties itself into the port through the mangroves, about two hundred yards to the south: and if this should fail, there is a good stream at the north end of the long north sandy beach. The latter, although very high coloured, is of wholesome quality; but in bad weather is inconvenient to be procured on account of the surf. Water for common purposes of cooking may be had on a sandy beach a little without the entrance, but it is of a mineral quality, and of brackish taste. It is high water at full and change at eight o'clock, and the tide rises from five to ten feet. The variation of the observatory was 5 degrees 14 minutes East.
CAPE BEDFORD (latitude 15 degrees 16 minutes 19 seconds, longitude 145 degrees 17 minutes 19 seconds) is high, and forms a steep slope to the sea: it appeared to be bold to.* Between it and Cape Flattery is a bay backed by low land, about five miles deep; but it is exposed to the wind, unless there is anchorage under the north-west end of Cape Bedford.
(*Footnote. Shoal water extends for nearly a mile round Cape Bedford. Roe manuscript.)
CAPE FLATTERY is eighteen miles north of Cape Bedford: its extremity is high and rocky, and forms two distinct hills. The summit of the cape is in latitude 14 degrees 52 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 145 degrees 16 minutes 10 seconds.*
(*Footnote. There are some dangerous shoals to the eastward of Point Lookout, and to the northward of Cape Flattery, about two miles apart from each other, situated in what was considered to be the fair channel. Roe manuscript.)
Eleven miles beyond the cape, in a North 45 degrees West direction, is POINT LOOKOUT, forming a peaked hill at the extremity of a low sandy projection, whence the land trends West by North 1/2 North for twelve leagues to Cape Bowen.
e, a reef nearly three miles long and one broad: its north end is twelve miles nearly due East from the entrance of Endeavour River, in latitude 15 degrees 26 minutes 50 seconds, longitude 145 degrees 23 minutes 30 seconds.
TURTLE REEF was visited by Mr. Bedwell, it is covered at high water, excepting a small spot of sand, about the size of the boat, at its north end in latitude 15 degrees 23 minutes, longitude 145 degrees 22 minutes 50 seconds: its interior is occupied, like most others, by a shoal lagoon; it is entirely of coral, and has abundance of shellfish; it was here that Captain Cook procured turtle during his stay at Endeavour River, from the entrance of which it bears North 75 degrees East, and is distant eleven miles; its south end is separated from e by a channel of a mile wide.
THREE ISLES, in latitude 15 degrees 7 minutes 30 seconds, is a group of low coral islets covered with shrubs, and encircled by a reef, that is not quite two miles in diameter.
Two miles and three quarters to the North-West is a low wooded island, about a mile long, also surrounded by a reef; and four miles to the southward of it is a rocky islet.
REEF f is about four or five miles East-South-East from Three Isles; it appeared to be about three miles long: its western extreme is in latitude 15 degrees 10 minutes, and in longitude 145 degrees 26 minutes.
TWO ISLES are also low and wooded, and surrounded by a reef: the largest islet is in latitude 15 degrees 1 minute 20 seconds, and longitude 145 degrees 22 minutes 10 seconds.
REEF g appeared to be about a mile broad and two miles and a half long: its south end is in latitude 15 degrees 0 minutes 15 seconds, longitude 145 degrees 26 minutes 45 seconds.
REEF h is an extensive reef, having high breakers on its outer edge: it is more than four miles long, and separated from the north end of g by a channel a mile wide.
REEF i has several detached reefs about it, on the northernmost are two rocky islands, and to the southward, on a detached shoal, there is a bare sandy islet that is perhaps occasionally covered by the tide: its south-westernmost extremity and the summit of Lizard Island are in the line of bearing of North 5 degrees West (magnetic) its latitude is 14 degrees 53 minutes 40 seconds.
REEF k, in latitude 14 degrees 47 minutes, has a dry sand upon it: its sub-marine extent was not ascertained.
REEF l; the position of this reef is rather uncertain, near its western side is a dry key in latitude 14 degrees 47 minutes 30 seconds.
m is probably unconnected with the shoal off the south end of Eagle Island. In Captain Cook's rough chart there is twelve fathoms marked between two shoals which must mean the above.
EAGLE ISLAND is low and wooded, and situated at the north end of a considerable shoal; its latitude is 14 degrees 42 minutes 20 seconds, and longitude 145 degrees 18 minutes 30 seconds.
DIRECTION ISLANDS are two high rocky islands, so called by Captain Cook to direct ships to the opening in the reefs, through which he passed out to sea; they are high and of conical shape, and might be seen more than five or six leagues off was it not for the hazy weather that always exists in the neighbourhood of the reefs; the northernmost is in latitude 14 degrees 44 minutes 50 seconds, longitude 145 degrees 26 minutes 25 seconds: the southernmost is in latitude 14 degrees 50 minutes, longitude 145 degrees 26 minutes 45 seconds.
LIZARD ISLAND, about three miles long, is remarkable for its peaked summit, the latitude of which is 14 degrees 40 minutes 20 seconds, and longitude 145 degrees 23 minutes: on its south side is an extensive reef encompassing three islets, of which two are high and rocky: the best anchorage is on its western side under the summit; with the high northernmost of the Direction Islands in sight over the low land, bearing about South-East by compass: the depth is six and seven fathoms sandy bottom. The variation here is 5 degrees 2 minutes East.
TURTLE GROUP is four miles to the north of Point Lookout; the islets are encircled by a horse-shoe shaped coral reef, and consist of six islands, all low and bushy. These islands are not laid down with sufficient accuracy as to their relative positions.
n is a low wooded island about eleven miles west from Lizard Island; no reef was seen to project from it; it is in the meridian of the observatory of Endeavour River; and in latitude 14 degrees 40 minutes.
o is a small coral reef; it lies a mile and a half North 64 degrees West from the north end of n.
p is a coral reef, about a mile in extent, separated from o by a channel of a mile wide.
q, a reef, on which are two low wooded isles, apparently connected with a shoal extending from Point Lookout along the shore to the West-North-West; the isles are seven miles North 64 degrees West from Point Lookout.
COLES ISLANDS consist of four small bushy islets from a quarter to half a mile in extent; they are from four to six miles North-East from Point Murdoch. This group appeared to be merely the several dry parts of the shoal that extends from Point Lookout to Noble Island; between them and the latter island, are two patches of dry sandy keys, but it is probable that they may be covered by the tide. The continuation of the shoal between the islands and Point Lookout was not clearly ascertained.
At POINT MURDOCH, which has a peaked hill at its extremity, the hills again approach the coast; at Cape Bowen they project into the sea, and separate two bays, in each of which there is possibly a rivulet; that to the eastward of the cape trends in and forms a deep bight. On the western side of the hills of Cape Bowen there is a track of low land, separating them from another rocky range. The summit of the hill at Point Murdoch is in latitude 14 degrees 40 minutes, and longitude 144 degrees 46 minutes.
HOWICK'S GROUP consists of ten or eleven islands, of which Number 1, remarkable for a hillock at its south-east end, is in latitude 14 degrees 32 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 144 degrees 55 minutes 20 seconds; it is nearly three miles long; the rest are all less than half a mile in extent, excepting the westernmost, Number 6, which is nearly a mile and a half in diameter.
The passage between 2 and 3 is safe, and has seven and eight fathoms: the north-west side of 3 is of rocky approach, but the opposite side of the strait is bold to; the anchorage is tolerably good. The Mermaid drove, but it was not considered to be caused by the nature of the bottom, which is of soft sand, and free from rocks.
The channel between 1 and 2 appeared to be very rocky, and shoal: between 1 and the reef r there is probably a clear channel of about a mile wide: the north-east end of 1 has a reef which extends off it for half a mile.
(*Footnote. Many shoals, partly dry, occupy the space to the northward and eastward of Howick's Group. Roe manuscript.)
All the islands are low and wooded, and surrounded by a coral reef of small extent.
4 has a small islet off its west end.
5, 8, and 9 did not appear to have any reefs projecting from them. 7 is probably two islands, with a reef extending for half a mile on its western side. 6 is of larger size than the generality of the low islands hereabout, Number 1 excepted: its centre is in latitude 14 degrees 28 minutes, and longitude 144 degrees 45 minutes. The position of Number 10 was not correctly ascertained.
The peak of CAPE BOWEN is in latitude 14 degrees 34 minutes, and longitude 144 degrees 35 minutes 40 seconds.
NOBLE ISLAND is a rock, having a sandy, or a coral beach at its north-west end; although small it is very conspicuous; and, when first seen from the southward, has the appearance of a rock with a double rounded top.
The REEFS s, t, and u are unconnected; the north end of s, lying six miles and a half due east from Point Barrow, was dry for a considerable extent; t, one mile to the north, was covered; but there is a dry sandy key on u, bearing from Point Barrow, North 32 degrees East, six miles: some rocks showed themselves above the water off its south end.
v and w may possibly be connected; the former was noticed to extend for three miles, and the latter for nearly ten miles; there was, however, a space of three miles between them, where a channel may possibly exist. The channels between t and u, and between v and w, appeared to be clear and deep.
The REEFS x, y, and Z, are probably parts of the barrier reefs, for the sea was breaking very heavily upon their outer edge; there were, however, considerable spaces where no breakers appeared, some of which, being three or four miles wide, may possibly be as many outlets to sea.
NINIAN BAY is a bight to the west of Point Barrow;* it is about three miles deep, and has a small opening at the bottom; in crossing it we had not more water than four fathoms, and within our course it appeared to be very shoal: there is doubtless a channel leading to the opening; but, to the name of harbour or port, it has not the slightest pretension: it was named Port Ninian by Lieutenant Jeffreys: off the north end of Point Barrow are two rocky islands.
(*Footnote. Off Point Barrow, the shoals lie from half to one mile nearer the shore, than they are laid down; and one mile and three quarters North 55 degrees East from the point are two small patches of coral, under water; they bear North-East and South-West from each other and are probably one tenth of a mile apart. Roe manuscript.)
Between Ninian Bay and Cape Melville the coast is high and rocky, but appeared to be fronted by a reef, which in some places extends for a mile and a half from the shore; in this interval there are two or three sandy beaches, but I doubt the practicability of landing upon them in a boat. The summit and sides of the hills that form the promontory, of which Cape Melville is the extreme, are of most remarkable appearance, being covered with heaps of rounded stones of very large size (volume 1.)
CAPE MELVILLE, sloping off into the sea to the north, terminates this remarkable promontory in latitude 14 degrees 9 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 144 degrees 24 minutes 50 seconds: the coast trends round it to the South-South-West and South-West, and forms Bathurst Bay, which is nine miles and a half deep, and thirteen wide, the western side being formed by Flinders' Group. A reef extends for more than two miles off Cape Melville in a North West by North direction, on which some rounded stones, similar to those upon the land, are heaped up above the sea: there is also one of these heaps at the extremity of the reef, outside, and within a quarter of a mile of which we had fourteen fathoms water: there are two other similar heaps within the outer pile, and between them there are possibly clear passages, but they should not be attempted without great caution. It was remarked that the breeze always freshened on passing round this cape.
PIPON ISLANDS, two small islets, of which the easternmost is the largest, are in latitude 14 degrees 6 minutes 40 seconds, longitude 144 degrees 26 minutes 5 seconds; they are surrounded by a reef, lying two miles and a half from the cape; between them and the reef that extends from the cape, there is a safe and deep passage of more than a mile wide.
The south-east side of Bathurst Bay is shoal. At the bottom are two openings, with some projecting land between them, at the extremity of which there is a peak; these openings are doubtless rivulets of considerable size, and take their rise from the high land at the back of Cape Bowen.
FLINDERS' GROUP forms the west head of Bathurst Bay; they are high and rocky, and consist of four islands, two of which are three miles long. The peak of the largest island, in latitude 14 degrees 11 minutes 5 seconds, and longitude 144 degrees 12 minutes 5 seconds, is visible from a distance of twelve or thirteen leagues; and the higher parts of the islands may be seen generally at seven or eight leagues.
On the eastern side of the northernmost island there is a bay fronted by a coral reef, but it is too exposed to the prevailing winds to be safe. It is here that the Frederick (merchant ship) was wrecked in 1818.
CAPE FLINDERS, in latitude 14 degrees 8 minutes, longitude 144 degrees 10 minutes 20 seconds, is the north extremity of the island; it may be passed close to with twelve fathoms: the best anchorage is under the flat-topped hill, at a quarter of a mile from the shore, in ten fathoms mud. The variation is 5 degrees 20 minutes East. It is high water at full and change at a quarter past nine.
In the offing is a low wooded island of more than a mile in diameter.
CLACK'S ISLAND is a high rock, situated at the south-east end of reef b, in latitude 14 degrees 4 minutes 45 seconds, and longitude 144 degrees 11 minutes 45 seconds, and, being a bare black rock, with no apparent vegetation, is a conspicuous object: there is another rock on its north-east end. (See above.) The reef is of circular shape, and three miles in diameter.
The shoal marked a was not seen by us. H.M. sloop Satellite struck upon it in June, 1822, on her passage to India. The following marks for it were obligingly communicated to me by Captain M.J. Currie, of H.M. sloop Satellite, who sent a boat to examine it upon her second voyage the following year:
"In crossing the northern part of Bathurst Bay, and nearly in mid-channel, between Cape Flinders and the low wooded island, there is a small patch of sunken rocks, lying north and south, not more than a cable's length in extent, the least water being one fathom. The Satellite grounded on them in two fathoms, in June, 1822. I sent a boat to examine this shoal in making the same passage in August, 1823, and found it to be under the following bearings (by compass): namely, Cape Flinders, South-West by West 3/4 West; the high peak on the south-east part of Flinders' Group, South 1/4 West; the highest of Clack's Islands, North-West 1/2 West, and Cape Melville East 1/2 South. It is a dangerous shoal in running for Cape Flinders, but may be easily avoided by steering near the low wooded island, to the north-east of the cape, or by keeping the shore of Flinders' Group on board, which is perhaps preferable. The variation is 5 degrees 40 minutes East."*
(*Footnote. The shoal is in a line with, and half way between, the flat-topped hill on the north island of Flinders' Group, and the centre of the low wooded island, and is nearly joined to some shoal-water that extends for two miles from the latter island. Roe manuscript.)
PRINCESS CHARLOTTE'S BAY is an extensive bight in the coast, twenty-two miles deep, and thirty-one broad; its shores are low, and at the bottom in latitude 14 degrees 29 minutes there is a mangrove opening.
JANE'S TABLE LAND, in latitude 14 degrees 29 minutes 15 seconds and longitude 144 degrees 4 minutes 45 seconds, is a remarkable flat-topped hill at the bottom of the bay, rising abruptly from the surrounding low land: it is about five miles from the coast; its summit, by the angle it subtended, is about a mile in length. Excepting this hill, no other high land was seen at the bottom of the bay.
On the western side the land rises to a moderate height, and forms a bank of about ten miles in extent, but this was not visible for more than three or four leagues. To the north of this no part of the interior can be seen until in latitude 13 degrees 55 minutes, when the south end of a ridge of hills commences at about seven miles behind the beach, which it gradually approaches until it reaches the coast in 13 degrees 35 minutes, and is terminated by a round hill; the coast then extends with a low sandy beach for eleven miles to Cape Sidmouth.
c is a covered reef of coral, extending North-East by East and South-West by West for seventeen miles: its south-west end bears North 75 degrees West, twelve miles and a half, from Cape Flinders.
d, e, and f, are three coral banks, having dry sandy keys on each; they are of circular shape, and from a mile to a third of a mile in diameter: d is the largest, and bears nearly due-west from Cape Flinders, from which it is distant twelve miles and a half.
g and h are two coral reefs; but it was not ascertained whether they are connected to each other or not: they may also be joined to c, and indeed this supposition is very likely to be correct, for we found the water quite smooth, and little or no set of tide on passing them. On the southwest extremity of g, in latitude 14 degrees 1 minute 20 seconds, longitude 143 degrees 50 minutes, there is a dry sandy key, as there is also upon h, but on the latter there are also rocks, and the sand is dry for four or five miles along its north-west side: the south-west end of h is in latitude 13 degrees 59 minutes, longitude 143 degrees 49 minutes.
i is a circular coral reef, of a mile and a quarter in diameter, and has a dry sandy key at its north-west end; it is two miles North-North-West from the south-west end of h.
k is a small reef with a sandy key upon it, four miles to the east of Pelican Island.
PELICAN ISLAND is on the north-west side of a reef of more than a mile and a half long: it is very small, but remarkable for having two clumps of trees, which at a distance give it the appearance of being two small islets: it is low, and, like the other islands of its character, may be seen at ten miles from the deck: its latitude is 13 degrees 54 minutes 45 seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 46 minutes. (See volume 1.)
l is a long narrow coral reef, extending in a North-North-East direction: it is thirteen miles in extent, but generally not more than one-third of a mile wide: its greatest width is not more than a mile and a half: its south-west end is five miles and three-quarters north from Pelican Island.
m is an extensive coral reef, extending for fifteen miles in North East by North direction, parallel with l, from which it is separated by a channel of from one to two miles wide. At its south-west end, where there is an extensive dry sandy key, and some dry rocks, it is two miles wide: but towards its northern end it tapers away to the breadth of a quarter of a mile. The south trend of its south-west end lies seven miles North 44 degrees West from Pelican Island, and four miles from Island 2 of Claremont Isles.
n is another extensive reef, which may possibly be connected with m. At its westernmost end, about four miles North by East 1/2 East from the west end of m., is a dry sand of small extent.
It was considered probable that there was a safe passage between the reefs l and m. We steered so far as to see the termination of the latter, upon which the sea was breaking, which afforded a proof of its not being connected with the former, which also the dark colour of the water sufficiently indicated.
The Mermaid was nearly lost in attempting to cross the latter reef. (Volume 1.)
CLAREMONT ISLES consist of five small islets, numbered from 1 to 5; they are of coral formation, and are covered with small brushwood; they are from six to seven miles apart, excepting 4 and 5, which are separated by a channel only a mile and a half wide: off the east and south-east end of 5, a coral reef extends for a mile and a half to the eastward, having two dry rocks on its north-east end.
COLUMN 1: CLAREMONT ISLE.
COLUMN 2: LATITUDE IN DEGREES, MINUTES, SECONDS.
COLUMN 3: LONGITUDE IN DEGREES, MINUTES, SECONDS.
Number 1 : 13 56 20 : 143 40 30.
Number 2 : 13 51 30 : 143 37 30.
Number 3 : 13 46 45 : 143 33 20.
Number 4 : 13 40 00 : 143 36 20.
Reef o extends in an east and west direction for a mile and a half, and at a mile farther there is another reef, that may be connected to it; o has a dry sand near its western extremity, in latitude 13 degrees 34 minutes, and longitude 143 degrees 38 minutes 45 seconds.
Islet 6, in latitude 13 degrees 29 minutes, longitude 143 degrees 38 minutes 26 seconds, is a very small, low, woody islet, with a reef extending for three-quarters of a mile off its north and south ends.
A reef lies two miles and one-third North 72 1/2 degrees West from islet 6, and South 59 degrees East from the summit of Cape Sidmouth; this reef is not more than a quarter of a mile in extent, and has a rock in its centre, that is uncovered at half tide; it is a brown looking shoal, and therefore of dangerous approach.
Off ROUND HILL there is a sandbank covered by the sea; it lies about two miles from the shore, and about East-North-East from Round Hill summit.
q is a small, brown, rocky shoal, that is not visible until close to it; it bears South 60 degrees East, four miles from the extremity of Cape Sidmouth.
CAPE SIDMOUTH is rather an elevated point, having higher land behind it; and at about nine miles in the interior, to the West-North-West, there is a rounded summit: at the extremity of the cape there are two remarkable lumps on the land, in latitude 13 degrees 24 minutes 20 seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 30 minutes. The cape is fronted by several rocky shoals, and ought not to be approached within four miles.
r is a sandbank, on which we had two and a half fathoms; but from the nature of the other neighbouring reefs, s and t, it is perhaps rocky also, and may be connected with them. It lies four miles and a quarter North 32 degrees East from Cape Sidmouth, and West 1/2 North from islet 7.
6 1/2 and 7 are two bare sandy islets, situated at the north ends of reefs extending in a North-North-West direction; the reef off the islet 6 1/2 is four miles and a half in length, and that off 7 is two miles and a half long: 6 1/2 is in latitude 13 degrees 23 minutes 20 seconds, longitude 143 degrees 39 minutes 30 seconds; 7, in latitude 13 degrees 21 minutes 20 seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 36 minutes 10 seconds.
8 and 9 are two low, woody islets of about a mile and a quarter in diameter. Some shoal marks on the water were observed opposite these islands, but their existence was not ascertained. Both the islets are surrounded by coral reefs, of small extent.
NIGHT ISLAND, its north end in latitude 13 degrees 13 minutes 8 seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 28 minutes 40 seconds, is a low woody island, two miles long, but not more than half a mile wide; it is surrounded by a coral reef, that does not extend more than a quarter of a mile from its northern end. On the south side, and within it, the space seemed to be much occupied by reefs, but they were not distinctly made out, on account of the thickness of the weather. There was also the appearance of a covered shoal, bearing North 55 degrees East from the north end of the island, distant four miles.*
(*Footnote. Observed many shoals to the North-West of Night Island; one bore East-North-East, two miles and a half from its north point; we saw much shoal water to seaward. Roe manuscript.)
u and w are two reefs; the former, which was dry when we passed, lies six miles North 18 degrees West from the north end of Night Island; there is also a small rock detached from it, which is not visible until close to it.
v is a covered coral reef, of about a mile and a quarter in extent; its centre is in 13 degrees 1 minute latitude.
SHERRARD'S ISLETS are low and bushy, and surrounded by a rocky shoal extending for a mile to the South-East; the south-westernmost is in 12 degrees 58 minutes 10 seconds latitude, and 143 degrees 30 minutes 15 seconds longitude.
10 is a low wooded islet, in latitude 12 degrees 53 minutes 10 seconds, on a reef of small extent; abreast of it is a rocky islet, lying about a mile and a half south from CAPE DIRECTION; off its east end is a smaller rock.
The coast between Cape Sidmouth and Cape Direction is rather high, and the shore is formed by a sandy beach. Ten miles North-West from the former cape is an opening in the hills; the high land then continues to the northward to Cape Direction, which has a peak near its extremity, close off which are two small rocks, but the depth at a mile and a half off is thirteen fathoms. The peak is in latitude 12 degrees 51 minutes 55 seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 26 minutes 10 seconds.*
(*Footnote. Shoal water extends for about six miles round the north side of Cape Direction. Roe manuscript.)
x; the position of this reef was not precisely ascertained; it appeared to be about two miles to the North-North-West of the extremity of the cape.
y and z are two covered reefs, of not more than a mile in extent; they are separated from each other by a channel a mile wide; y is four miles and a half North 51 degrees East from Cape Direction.
a and b are also covered reefs; the former is a mile and a quarter in length; the latter extends for two miles in an east direction, and is a mile broad: a bears nearly east, nine miles, from a peaked hill on the shore, and is five miles to the south of Cape Weymouth.
LLOYD'S BAY was not examined; it appeared to have a considerable opening at its south-west end, where the land was very low; the hilly country to the south of Cape Direction also ceases, and there is a considerable space of low land between them and the south end of Cape Weymouth range.
CAPE WEYMOUTH is an elevated point, sloping off from a high summit; its extreme is in latitude 12 degrees 37 minutes 15 seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 20 minutes 35 seconds. RESTORATION ISLAND, off the cape, is high, and of conical shape; about a mile East-South-East from it is a small rocky islet. The coast then extends towards Bolt Head, and forms several sinuosities, one of which is WEYMOUTH BAY of Captain Cook; the shores of the bay were not well examined.*
(*Footnote. There is a dry sand four or five miles North-West from Cape Weymouth. Roe manuscript.)
FAIR CAPE, so named by Lieutenant Bligh, is a projection of high land, in latitude 12 degrees 25 minutes, longitude 143 degrees 11 minutes 15 seconds: it has a reef off it according to Lieutenant Jeffrey's account, but its situation does not appear to have been correctly ascertained: we did not see it.
BOLT HEAD is the north-west end of the high land at the south end of TEMPLE BAY. It is here that the high land terminates; the coast to the northward being very low and sandy; with the exception of CAPE GRENVILLE, which is the rocky projection that forms the north extremity of Temple Bay. A little to the south of the cape is INDIAN BAY of Lieutenant Bligh. The latitude of Cape Grenville's east trend is 11 degrees 57 minutes 30 seconds, its longitude 143 degrees 8 minutes.
c is a coral reef, with a dry sandy key at its northern end, in latitude 12 degrees 35 minutes 20 seconds, longitude 143 degrees 25 minutes 15 seconds; it is about two miles long.
d, a small oval-shaped reef in the channel between c and e: it is covered, and has perhaps twelve feet water over it.
e is an extensive coral reef, fourteen miles long, commencing in latitude 12 degrees 32 1/2 minutes, and extending to 12 degrees 24 minutes; and in longitude 143 degrees 16 minutes: it is entirely covered, except a few dry rocks at its north-west end: the south-eastern extremity of the reef is perhaps three or four miles wide, but its eastern termination was not clearly distinguished.
f is a small reef, about three miles South-West from QUOIN ISLAND, which is a small wedge-shaped rock: it is in the neighbourhood of this reef that the merchant ship, Morning Star, was lost. Quoin Island is in latitude 12 degrees 24 minutes, and longitude 143 degrees 23 minutes 50 seconds.
g is a coral reef, ten miles long, and from one to two broad; having a dry rock upon it (in latitude 12 degrees 18 minutes 20 seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 14 minutes 35 seconds) about three miles from its north end.
FORBES' ISLANDS are high and rocky, but appeared to be clothed with vegetation; the group occupies a space of about two miles. The summit of Forbes' Island is in latitude 12 degrees 16 minutes 35 seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 18 minutes 50 seconds.
h, a coral reef, with some dry rocks near its north end, is about one mile long, and separated from i by a narrow pass. The south end of h bears from the summit of Forbes' Island West 1/4 South seven miles.
i and k, coral reefs, lying North-West, having a very narrow channel between them; the former is covered, but the latter has a dry sandy key at its north-west end, in latitude 12 degrees 12 minutes 20 seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 10 minutes 5 seconds.
PIPER'S ISLETS are four low bushy islets upon two circular reefs, with a passage separating them of a quarter of a mile wide; the reefs have each two islets upon them, and a dry rocky key round their western edge: the centre of the narrowest part of the channel between them is twelve and a half fathoms deep, but abreast the south end of the south-easternmost shoal there is ten and a half fathoms.
l, a circular coral reef, a mile and a half in diameter, with a dry rock at its east end, in latitude 12 degrees 9 minutes 5 seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 11 minutes.
YOUNG ISLAND, a small islet on a coral reef of about half a mile in extent, in latitude 12 degrees 6 minutes 50 seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 7 minutes. (See volume 1.)
m, a coral reef, about two and a half miles long, having a dry rock at its north end; it bears South 40 degrees West, three miles from the summit of Haggerston's Island.
n, an extensive, irregular-shaped, coral reef, seven miles long, and from one to four broad; it is separated from o by a narrow tortuous channel, but not safe to pass through: both n and o are covered. There is a safe passage between these reefs and Haggerston's Island, of a mile and a half wide; but there is a small reef detached from the north-west end of n, which should be avoided, although there is probably sufficient depth of water over it for any ship: it was seen from the summit of the island, from whence another coral patch was observed at about one mile to the westward, of which we saw no signs.
p is a small reef, of about a mile and a quarter in extent; it was seen from the summit of Haggerston's Island, as was also another reef, seven miles South by East from it: the positions of these reefs are doubtful.
HAGGERSTON'S ISLAND is high and rocky; the summit is in latitude 12 degrees 1 minute 40 seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 12 minutes; it is situated at the South-South-West extremity of a coral reef, of nearly two miles in length; its northern side is furnished with some trees and a sandy beach. At the north end of the reef are two dry patches of sand and rocks. It is separated from the islands of Sir Everard Home's Group by a channel nearly three miles wide, quite free from danger; but in passing through it, the tide or current sets to the North-North-West, round the reef off Haggerston's Island. (See volume 1.)
SIR EVERARD HOME'S GROUP consists of six islands: the two south-westernmost are rocky, and one of them has two peaks upon it, which, from the southward, have the appearance of being upon the extremity of Cape Grenville: the south-easternmost has a hillock, or clump of trees, at its south-east extremity, in latitude 11 degrees 57 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 11 minutes. The outer part of this group is bold to, and the islands may be approached, but the space within them appeared to be rocky: there is a passage between the group and Cape Grenville. The merchant ship Lady Elliot in passing through it, found overfalls with eighteen fathoms.
Round Cape Grenville is MARGARET BAY, fronted by SUNDAY ISLAND, elevated and rocky, but not so high as Haggerston's Island, with good anchorage under its lee.
q is a covered reef of about a mile in extent, in latitude 11 degrees 55 minutes, five or six miles to the East-North-East of Sir Everard Home's Group.
SIR CHARLES HARDY'S ISLANDS are high and rocky, and may be seen five or six leagues off; the summit is in latitude 11 degrees 53 minutes 20 seconds, and longitude 143 degrees 23 minutes 40 seconds.
r is a covered reef; and s, a reef, with a dry sandy key upon it.
COCKBURN ISLES are rocky, and may be seen four leagues off.*
(*Footnote. There is a dry sand bearing South-West by West 1/2 West, two miles and a half from the southernmost Cockburn Island, and there are many shoals of great extent to the northward of the group. Roe manuscript.)
t and u are two reefs that were seen at a distance, and appeared to be detached from each other.
BIRD ISLES (the Lagoon Islands of Lieutenant Bligh) consist of three low bushy islets encompassed by a reef: the islands are at the outer verge of the reef, and may be passed within a quarter of a mile; the north-east island is in latitude 11 degrees 44 minutes 15 seconds, and longitude 142 degrees 58 minutes 45 seconds.
McARTHUR'S ISLES consist of four low bushy islets, of which two are very small; they are encompassed by a reef of more than three miles long, and are separated from the Bird Isles by a channel three miles and a half wide.
HANNIBAL'S ISLES are three in number, low and covered with bushes, the easternmost is near the extremity of the reef encircling the whole, and is in latitude 11 degrees 34 minutes 15 seconds, and longitude 142 degrees 51 minutes 20 seconds.*
(*Footnote. There is a dry sand at one mile and three-quarters, and another at two miles and a half North-North-West from North Hannibal Island.)
v and w; these shoals are separated by a safe channel of a mile and a quarter wide; v is circular, and has a dry sand at its north-west edge, and a rocky key at its south-west end; the channel between it and Hannibal's Islands is two miles and a half wide: w is nearly four miles long, and is entirely covered; the course between them is west, but, by hauling close round the east end of v, a West by North 1/2 North course will carry a vessel a quarter of a mile to leeward of the west end of w; the north-west extreme of w is three miles and a quarter South 35 degrees West from Islet 1.
The islets 1 and 2 are contained in a triangular-shaped reef, of about a mile and three quarters in extent; they are covered with low trees. Islet 1 is in latitude 11 degrees 28 minutes 45 seconds. Number 3 is a sandy islet crowned with bushes at the north-west end of a coral reef of about a mile and a half in length. Between the two latter reefs there appeared to be a channel of a mile wide in the direction of about North-West. 4, 5, and 6, are sandy islets covered with bushes, on small detached reefs, with, apparently, a passage between each: 4 is in latitude 11 degrees 22 minutes 30 seconds. 7, a small bushy island,* is separated from CAIRNCROSS ISLAND by a channel two miles wide. The latter is a small woody island, situated at the north-west end of a coral reef, more than two miles long and one broad; the north-west point of the reef runs off with a sharp point for about a quarter of a mile from the islet. There is good anchorage under it, but the depth is fifteen fathoms, and the sea is rather heavy at times with the tide setting against the wind; the latitude of its centre is 11 degrees 33 minutes 30 seconds, and its longitude 142 degrees 50 minutes 35 seconds. (See volume 1 and above.)
(*Footnote. A rocky reef extends for two miles to the southward of islet 7. Roe manuscript.)
8, 9, and 10, are low, woody islets: 8 is five miles to the eastward of Cairncross Island; 9 and 10 are to the northward of 8.
11 is also low and woody, but its position was not clearly ascertained.
ORFORDNESS is a sandy projection of the coast under Pudding-pan Hill (of Bligh) the shape of which, being flat-topped, is very remarkable: the hill is in latitude 11 degrees 18 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 142 degrees 43 minutes 35 seconds.
The country between Cape Grenville and Cape York is low and sandy, with but few sinuosities in its coast line: it is exposed to the trade wind, which often blows with great strength, from South-East and South-East by East.
ESCAPE RIVER, in 10 degrees 57 1/2 minutes, is an opening in the land of one mile in breadth, trending in for two or three miles, when it turns to the north, and is concealed from the view; the land on the north side of the entrance is probably an island, for an opening was observed in Newcastle Bay, trending to the south, which may communicate with the river. The entrance is defended by a bar, on which the Mermaid was nearly lost. (Volume 1.) The deepest channel may probably be near the south head, which is rocky. The banks on the south side are wooded, and present an inviting aspect.
NEWCASTLE BAY is nine miles in extent by six deep; its shores are low, and apparently of a sandy character; at the bottom there is a considerable opening bearing West 1/4 North eight miles and a half from Turtle Island.
Off the south head of the bay is TURTLE ISLAND, a small rocky islet on the east side of an extensive reef, in latitude 10 degrees 54 minutes, and longitude 142 degrees 38 minutes 40 seconds; it is separated by a channel three miles wide from reef x, which has a dry sand at its north end, in latitude 10 degrees 53 minutes, and longitude 142 degrees 42 minutes, it has also some dry rocks and a mangrove bush on the inner part of its south end.
Four miles to the north of x are two shoals y and Z, both of which are covered; y is two miles and a half long, and three miles and a quarter; neither of them appeared to be a mile in width; the north-west end of z, when in a line with Mount Adolphus, bears North 19 degrees West.
Off the north head of Newcastle Bay, which forms the south-east trend of the land of Cape York, is a group of high rocky islands, ALBANY ISLES; and immediately off the point is a reef, which extends for about a mile; half a mile without its edge, we had ten fathoms.
The islets 12, 13, and 15, were only seen at a distance.
THE BROTHERS, so called in Lieutenant Bligh's chart, are two high rocks upon a reef.
ALBANY ISLES contain six islands, of which one only is of large size; the easternmost has a small peak, and a reef extends for less than a quarter of a mile from it; the peak is in latitude 10 degrees 43 minutes 45 seconds, and longitude 142 degrees 35 minutes 5 seconds.
YORK ISLES is a group about seven miles from the mainland; the principal island, which is not more than two miles long, has a very conspicuous flat-topped hill upon it, MOUNT ADOLPHUS,* in latitude 10 degrees 38 minutes 20 seconds, and longitude 142 degrees 36 minutes 25 seconds. Off the south-east end of this island are two rocky islets, the southernmost of which is more than a mile distant; the northern group of the York Isles are laid down from Captain Flinders.
(*Footnote. There is a bay on the west side or Mount Adolphus, but it appeared shoal. Roe manuscript.)
CAPE YORK, the northernmost land of New South Wales, has a conical hill half a mile within its extremity, the situation of which is in 10 degrees 42 minutes 40 seconds South, and 142 degrees 28 minutes 50 seconds East of Greenwich. There is also an island close to the point with a conical hill upon it, which has perhaps been hitherto taken for the cape; from which it is separated by a shoal strait half a mile wide; the latitude of the summit is 10 degrees 41 minutes 35 seconds, and longitude 142 degrees 28 minutes 25 seconds. From this island a considerable shoal extends to the westward for six miles towards a peaked hill on the extremity of a point. In the centre of this shoal are some dry rocks.
At the distance of nearly five miles from the above island is the rocky islet a, in latitude 10 degrees 36 minutes 50 seconds, and longitude 142 degrees 27 minutes 45 seconds; it is of small size, and surrounded by deep water; and, being easily seen from the strait between Cape York and the York Isles, serves to direct the course.
POSSESSION ISLES consist of nine or ten islets, of which 2 and 7 only are of large size, and neither of these are two miles long; they are also higher than the others. Number 1 is a small conical hill; 2 is hummocky; 3, 4, and 6, are very small; 5 makes with a hollow in its centre, like the seat of a saddle. The passage between 2 and the small islets 3 and 4 is the best; there is six and seven fathoms water; but in passing this, it must be recollected that the tide sets towards the islands on the northern side.
ENDEAVOUR STRAIT is on the south side of Prince of Wales' Islands: a shoal extends from Cape Cornwall (latitude 10 degrees 45 minutes 45 seconds, longitude 142 degrees 8 minutes 35 seconds) to the westward, and is probably connected with a strip of sand that stretches from Wallis' Isles to Shoal Cape. We crossed it with the cape bearing about East, when the least depth was four fathoms; but on many parts there are not more than three fathoms. Variation 5 degrees 38 minutes West.
PRINCE OF WALES ISLANDS are much intersected by straits and openings, that are very little known; there was an appearance of a good port, a little to the South-West of HORNED HILL (latitude 10 degrees 36 minutes 35 seconds, longitude 142 degrees 15 minutes) which may probably communicate with Wolf's Bay; the strait to the south of Wednesday Island also offers a good port in the eastern entrance of some rocky islands and without them is the rock b, with some sunken dangers near it.
WEDNESDAY ISLAND; its north end, in latitude 10 degrees 30 minutes 10 seconds, and longitude 142 degrees 15 minutes, may be approached close, but a considerable shoal stretches off its western side, the greater part of which is dry.
Off HAMMOND'S ISLAND is a high, conspicuous rock, bearing West 3/4 South, and five miles and three-quarters from the north end of Wednesday Island. Captain Flinders passed through the strait separating Wednesday Island from Hammond's Islands, and had four, five, and six fathoms.
Abreast of the strait separating GOOD'S ISLAND from the latter is the reef c, on which are several dry rocks, but abreast of it, and one mile and one quarter from it, is the reef d,* which is generally covered; the latter bears South 75 degrees West three miles and a quarter from the rock off Hammond's Island, and about North 45 degrees West two and a quarter miles from the opening between Good and Hammond's Island; the marks for avoiding it are given in the sailing directions.
(*Footnote. d consists of three small detached patches, that extend farther off than is at first observed. There is also a narrow strip of rocks extending for a short distance off the north-east end of the reef off Hammond's Island. Roe manuscript.)
Abreast of Wednesday, Hammond, and Good's Islands, is the NORTH-WEST REEF, an extensive coral bank, many parts of which are dry; it is ten or eleven miles long; the channel between it and the islands is from one mile and three-quarters to two miles and a quarter wide.
BOOBY ISLAND (latitude of its centre 10 degrees 36 minutes, longitude 141 degrees 52 minutes 50 seconds) is a small rocky islet of scarcely a third of a mile in diameter; its south-west end has a shoal projecting from it for half a mile, but its other sides are bold to. In a North 70 degrees East direction from it, at the distance of two miles and three-quarters, is a sandbank with three fathoms; it was discovered by the ships Claudine and Mary, on their passage through Torres Strait, when it was named LARPENT'S BANK.*
(*Footnote. It is near the west end of a shoal of five miles in length, extending in an east and west direction, a few feet only below the surface of the water. Roe manuscript.)
APPENDIX A. SECTION 3.
DESCRIPTION OF THE WINDS AND WEATHER, AND OF THE PORTS AND COAST BETWEEN WESSEL'S ISLANDS AND CLARENCE STRAIT.
In the sea that separates the land of New Guinea and the islands of Timor Laut and Arroo from the north coast of Australia, the winds are periodical, and are called the east and west monsoons, for such is their direction in the mid-sea. Near the Coast of New Holland the regularity of these winds is partly suspended by the rarefied state of the atmosphere; this produces land and sea-breezes, but the former are principally from the quarter from which the winds are blowing in the mid sea. The usual course of the winds near the coast in the months of April, May, and June, is as follows: after a calm night, the land-wind springs up at daylight from South or South-South-East; it then usually freshens, but, as the sun gets higher, and the land becomes heated, gradually decreases. At noon the sea-wind rushes in towards the land, and generally blows fresh from East; at sunset it veers to the North-East, and falls calm, which lasts the whole night, so that if a ship, making a course, does not keep at a moderate distance from the land, she is subject to delay; she would not, however, probably have so fresh a breeze in the day time. Later in the season of the easterly monsoon, in August, September, and October, calms are frequent, and the heat is sultry and oppressive; this weather sometimes lasts for a fortnight or three weeks at a time. The easterly monsoon commences about the 1st of April, with squally, rainy weather, but, in a week or ten days, settles to fine weather and steady winds in the offing, and regular land and sea breezes, as above described, near the coast. It ceases about the latter end of November or early part of December; the westerly monsoon may then be expected to blow strong, and perhaps with regularity. This is the rainy season, and is doubtless an unwholesome time; Captain Flinders' crew experienced much sickness in his examination of the Gulf of Carpentaria during this monsoon, but, when upon the western side of the gulf, he thought that the fine weather then experienced might be occasioned by the monsoon's blowing over the land. In January and February the monsoon is at its strength, but declines towards the end of the latter month, and in March becomes variable, with dark, cloudy, and unsettled weather; the wind is then generally from the South-West, but not at all regular.
The current sets with the wind, and seldom exceeds a knot or a knot and a half per hour; between Capes Wessel and Van Diemen it is not stronger, and its course in the easterly monsoon, when only we had any experience of it, was West: the strength is probably increased or diminished by the state of the wind.
The tides are of trifling consequence; the flood comes from the eastward, but rarely rises more than ten feet, or runs so much as a mile and a half per hour. High water takes place at full and change at Liverpool River, and Goulburn Island at six o'clock, at the entrance of the Alligator Rivers in Van Diemen's Gulf, at 8 hours 15 minutes, and at the south end of Apsley Strait at 3 hours 25 minutes.* The flood-tide comes from the eastward, excepting when its course is altered by local circumstances; the rise is not more than eleven feet at the springs.
(*Footnote. In St. Asaph's Bay, Lieutenant Roe found high-water take place at full and change at 5 hours 45 minutes; and in King's Cove at 5 hours 15 minutes; at the latter place it rose fourteen feet.)
The variation of the compass in this interval is scarcely affected by the ship's local attraction. Off Cape Wessel it is between 3 and 4 degrees East; at Liverpool River about 1 3/4 degrees East, at Goulburn Islands 2 degrees East, and off Cape Van Diemen, not more than 1 1/2 degrees East.
The dip of the south end of the needle at Goulburn Island was 27 degrees 32 1/2 minutes.
When the survey of the Gulf of Carpentaria was completed by Captain Flinders, his vessel proved to be so unfit for continuing the examination of the north coast, that it was found necessary to return to Port Jackson; and as he left it at the strait that separates Point Dale from Wessel's Islands, which is called in my chart BROWN'S STRAIT, he saw no part of the coast to the westward of that point, nor did he even see Cape Wessel, the extremity of the range of Wessel's Islands, which terminate in latitude 10 degrees 59 1/4 minutes, and longitude 135 degrees 46 minutes 30 seconds. The group consists of four islands, besides some of smaller size to the southward of the northernmost, and also a few on the eastern side of Brown's Strait; one of which is Cunningham's Island, of Captain Flinders. CUMBERLAND STRAIT is in latitude 11 degrees 25 minutes, longitude 135 degrees 31 minutes.
POINT DALE, unless it is upon an island, appears to be the east extremity of the north coast; its latitude is 11 degrees 36 minutes, longitude 135 degrees 9 minutes: there are several rocky islands of small size, lying off, encompassed by a reef, which extends for eight miles North-North-East 1/2 East from the point. In Brown's Strait the tide sets at the rate of three and a half and four miles per hour; the flood runs to the southward through the strait. To the westward of Point Dale the coast extends for about sixty miles to the south-west to Castlereagh Bay; in which space there are several openings in the beach, that are probably small rivers: one, ten miles to the South-West, may be a strait insulating Point Dale, and communicating with Arnhem Bay.
CASTLEREAGH BAY is forty miles wide, by about eighteen deep; it is fronted by a group of straggling islands of low coral formation, crowned with small trees and bushes: the centre of the northernmost islet is in latitude 11 degrees 41 minutes 50 seconds, longitude 134 degrees 10 minutes 5 seconds. To the eastward of Cape Stewart, the western head of the bay, the coast is very much indented, and probably contains several openings or rivulets, particularly two at the bottom of the bay. The beach is generally sandy, with rocky points, and the shore is wooded to the beach; the interior was in no part visible over the coast hills, which are very low and level. From the extremity of CAPE STEWART, which is in latitude 11 degrees 56 minutes, and longitude 133 degrees 48 minutes, a reef extends to the West by North 1/2 North for eight miles and a half; having, at a mile within the extremity, a low sandy key, with a small dry rock half a mile to the eastward. Every other part of the reef is covered.
To the westward of Cape Stewart is a sandy bay nearly eleven leagues in extent, but not more than seven deep; near its western end there is a small break in the beach, but it did not appear to be of any consequence.
The extreme point of this bight is the eastern head of LIVERPOOL RIVER, whose entrance is to the westward of Haul-round Islet; which, as well as Entrance Island, is connected to the above point by a shoal. Haul-round Islet is in latitude 11 degrees 54 minutes, and longitude 134 degrees 14 minutes; Entrance Island is in latitude 11 degrees 57 minutes, and longitude 134 degrees 14 minutes 50 seconds. The entrance is from one and a quarter to two miles wide. The reef extends for half a mile from Haul-round Islet, close without which the water is deep, the least depth in the entrance is five and three-quarter fathoms; and, in some parts there are thirteen and fourteen fathoms: at seven miles within Haul-round Islet, the depth decreases to four fathoms, and then gradually shoals to three; after which it varies in the channel of the river to between nine and twelve feet at low water. A bar crosses the river at the low mangrove island, over which there is not more than three feet at low water; but, as the tide rises more than eight feet at the springs, vessels drawing ten or eleven feet may proceed up the river.
The stream runs in a very tortuous course for upwards of forty miles, but as our examination was unassisted by bearings or observations, it is laid down from an eye sketch. POINT BRAITHWAITE, in latitude 11 degrees 45 minutes 50 seconds, and longitude 133 degrees 55 minutes 20 seconds, is twenty miles to the westward of Haul-round Islet; to the southward of it is Junction Bay, which was not examined. For the next thirty miles the coast is very much indented, and has some deep bays on either side of Point Barclay, as also one to the eastward of Point Turner, at the bottom of which an opening, a mile in width, is probably a river. Here also the feature of the coast is altered, being low and level to the eastward as far as Point Dale, without a hill or rising ground in the interior to relieve its monotonous appearance. At this place, however, a range of rocky hills, WELLINGTON RANGE, commences, of about twenty miles in extent: five miles behind it is the Tor (latitude 11 degrees 54 minutes, and longitude 133 degrees 10 minutes 20 seconds) a solitary pyramidal rock; and seven miles and a quarter West by South, from the latter is a peak-topped hill.
The two latter are apparently unconnected with the range, on which there are four remarkable ridges, of which the two westernmost are the most remarkable.
GOULBURN ISLANDS consist of two islands, each being about twenty miles in circumference; they are separated from each other by a rocky strait three miles wide, which in most parts is deep enough for a ship of any size to pass through; the latitude of the centre of this strait is 11 degrees 32 minutes. Macquarie Strait separates the southernmost from the main, and is nearly two miles across: the depth in mid-channel being eighteen fathoms: the latitude of Retaliation Point, which is on the northern side of the strait, is in 11 degrees 39 minutes.
SOUTH WEST BAY affords good anchorage in five and six fathoms at a mile from the shore, and vessels may anchor at a quarter of a mile off the beach in three fathoms muddy bottom. At the north end of the bay are the Bottle Rocks separated from the point by a channel two and a quarter fathoms deep. The Bottle Rock was one of our fixed points, and is placed in latitude 11 degrees 37 minutes 24 seconds, and longitude 133 degrees 19 minutes 40 seconds. The bay affords a convenient place for wooding and watering; the latter may be had during the early months of the dry season (as late as August) from a drain at the base of the Pipe Clay Cliffs at the north end of the bay. There are also some holes on Sims Island that contain water for a much later period. The holes have been made by the Malays for the purpose of collecting it.
MULLET BAY is on the west side of the north island, affording good anchorage in the easterly monsoon in six and seven fathoms mud, at a mile from the shore. The flood-tide here sets to the eastward, and it is high water at full and change in the strait at six o'clock; the rise of the tide is not more than five or six feet. The north-east point of North Goulburn Island is in latitude 11 degrees 26 minutes, longitude 133 degrees 26 minutes.
From Macquarie Strait the land trends to the westward, and north-westward to De Courcy Head, and forms but few sinuosities. POINT BROGDEN, in latitude 11 degrees 30 minutes, the only projection in this space, is remarkable for being higher than usual, and for having a range of cliffs to the southward of the point; with a solitary tree near its extremity, hence the land is rocky towards De Courcy Head, which is a cliffy projection in latitude 11 degrees 17 minutes 30 seconds; thence the shore continues rocky to Cape Cockburn, a low rocky point, with a conspicuous tree at its extremity. The point is wooded to within a short distance of the sea, as is generally the case with the shores of this coast. CAPE COCKBURN is in latitude 11 degrees 18 minutes, and longitude 132 degrees 53 minutes 5 seconds.
MOUNTNORRIS BAY extends between Cape Cockburn and Cape Croker, it is twenty-eight miles wide, and twenty-three deep. It contains several islands, and is also fronted by a group, of which New Year's Island, the latitude of whose centre is 10 degrees 55 minutes, and longitude 133 degrees 0 minutes 36 seconds, is the outermost; the others are named Oxley, Lawson, McCluer, Grant, Templer, and Cowlard. They are straggling, and have wide and apparently deep channels between them. Between New Year's and McCluer's Islands, the channel is nearly eight miles wide and eighteen and nineteen fathoms deep. A reef extends off the north-west end of the latter island for nearly three miles, and the ground is rocky and shoal for some distance off the north-east end of Oxley's Island. Grant's Island is higher than the others, which are merely small woody islets, the centre is in 11 degrees 10 minutes. At the north-east end of Mountnorris Bay is MALAY BAY which is four miles wide and six deep; it affords good anchorage in four and five fathoms in the centre: as it offered no other inducement, we did not land upon any part of it. Between Valentia Island and Point Annesley, the channel is more than a mile wide and four fathoms deep. VALENTIA ISLAND has a reef off its north point, and another off its south-east point, each about a mile in extent.
COPELAND ISLAND is small and wedge-shaped, its summit is in latitude 11 degrees 28 minutes, and longitude 132 degrees 43 minutes; four miles and a quarter West-North-West from it is a covered sandbank having nine feet water near its edge; it was not quite certain whether it was joined to the land or not, from which it is distant two miles and a half.
On the western side of the bay there is a strait two miles wide separating Croker's Island from the main; it is ten or eleven miles in length, and is navigable since the Malay fleet were observed to pass through it.
CROKER'S ISLAND is twenty-one miles and a quarter from north to south, and from two to five broad, its northern extremity is in 10 degrees 58 minutes 30 seconds latitude, and 132 degrees 34 minutes 10 seconds longitude; about three-quarters of a mile within it there is a remarkable rocky knob: its south extreme is in 11 degrees 19 1/4 minutes.
PALM BAY, on its western side, is an excellent anchorage in the easterly monsoon; it is four miles and a half wide, and nearly three deep. The shore is rocky for a mile off, and the south point has a rocky shoal projecting to the West-North-West for a mile and a quarter.
DARCH'S ISLAND is separated from Croker's Island by a navigable strait two miles wide; near the reef at the north-east end we had six fathoms, but in mid-channel the depth was as much as eleven fathoms. A considerable reef projects off the east end for more than a mile. The island is about two miles and three-quarters long, and is thickly wooded; its north point is in latitude 11 degrees 7 minutes 30 seconds.
RAFFLES BAY forms a good port during any season; it is seven miles deep, and from two to three broad: beyond High Point the depth is not more than three fathoms and a half. The anchorage is however quite safe.
The bay to the eastward of Point Smith, which has a reef extending from it for nearly a mile, has a shoal opening at its bottom of very little importance. At the north-east end of the bay, separated from the point by a channel a mile wide, and more than five fathoms deep, is a small sandy island, with a reef extending for a mile off its north end.
PORT ESSINGTON, the outer heads of which, Vashon Head and Point Smith, are seven miles apart, is an extensive port, thirteen miles and a quarter deep, and from five to three wide; independent of its Inner Harbour, which, with a navigable entrance of a mile wide, is five miles deep and four wide. The port is not only capacious, but has very few shoals or dangers in it.
On the western side, off Island Point, there are some rocks, and also a reef projects for a mile off the bluff point that forms the east head of Knocker's Bay. The western side of the entrance to Inner Harbour, is also rocky and shoal for two-thirds across, but near the opposite point* the depth is thirteen fathoms.
(*Footnote. This is Point Record of Captain Bremer, see above.)
On the eastern side of the port there is no danger beyond a quarter of a mile from the shore, excepting a reef of rocks, some of which are dry; this danger, when in a line with a remarkable cliff two miles and a quarter to the south of Table Point, bears East-South-East 1/2 East; close without them the depth is five fathoms.
The INNER HARBOUR is divided into two basins which extend in for two miles on either side of Middle Head, a cliffy projection, surrounded by a rocky shore for a quarter of a mile off. The anchorage between the entrance and Middle Head is in five and six fathoms mud, and in the centre of the western basin the depth is five fathoms mud. The shores are higher than usual, and are varied by sandy beaches and cliffs, some of white and others of a red colour. The western side of the port was not visited, and our tracks and examinations were made principally on the opposite shore. At the bottom of Knocker's Bay is a shoal mangrove opening, of no importance. See volume 1. POINT SMITH is in latitude 11 degrees 6 minutes 45 seconds, and longitude 132 degrees 12 minutes 30 seconds.
VASHON HEAD has a considerable shoal projecting from it, and extending into the bay to the westward which was called TREPANG BAY. This bay has an opening at the bottom, that appeared to be shoal. A small sandy island lies at the distance of a mile and three-quarters from the shore; the reef projects into the sea for nearly a mile farther, and apparently extends to the South-West to the north head of POPHAM BAY, which has a small opening at the bottom, but of shoal approach; good anchorage may be had in Popham Bay in five and six fathoms, a little within the heads, and as they bear North and South-South-West, it is well sheltered in the easterly monsoon. Hence to CAPE DON is three miles and a half. The latter cape is in latitude 11 degrees 19 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 131 degrees 45 minutes 30 seconds.
VAN DIEMEN'S GULF is seventy miles deep, and more than forty broad. It has two outlets to sea; the one to the northward, DUNDAS STRAIT, is sixteen miles wide and very deep; the other, CLARENCE STRAIT, is seventeen miles wide, and communicates with the sea round the south sides of Melville and Bathurst Islands: it is probably not so safe as Dundas' Strait, on account of Vernon's Isles, which lie in mid channel, near its western end.
The north eastern side of Van Diemen's Gulf washes the south side of Coburg Peninsula. It has several bays, and, to the eastward of MOUNTS BEDWELL and Roe, the shore is fronted by SIR GEORGE HOPE'S ISLANDS, forming a channel or port within them twenty miles deep and from three to six broad; the entrance to it is round the north end of GREENHILL ISLAND, which is separated from the land of the peninsula, by a strait a mile and a half wide: the depth in mid-channel, for the shore on either side for half a mile is shoal and rocky, is eighteen fathoms, and within it the bottom is six, seven, and eight fathoms deep, and principally of mud. This strait is in latitude 11 degrees 35 minutes.
The eastern side has several openings in it, but the shores are very low, and of shoal approach. At its south-east end are the two (and probably three) Alligator Rivers; the westernmost (or centre) is fronted by FIELD ISLAND, the centre of which is in 12 degrees 6 minutes latitude, and 132 degrees 25 minutes 10 seconds longitude. These rivers have been described in the narrative. See volume 1. The bottom of the gulf is very low, and forms two bights, separated by a point that projects for seven or eight miles.
In the neighbourhood of the rivers the country is sprinkled with wooded hills, that extend in a straggling chain towards Wellington Range, of which they might be considered a part: but between the rivers and Clarence Strait the country is low and flat, and only protected from inroads of the sea by a barrier of sandhills, beyond which not a vestige of the interior could be seen.
CLARENCE STRAIT separates Bathurst and Melville Islands from the mainland: it is seventy-five miles long, and from seventeen to thirty-five wide. The narrowest part is at about its centre, between Cape Gambier and Cape Eldon, and in this space is a group of four low rocky islands, covered with mangroves (Vernon's Islands) from which considerable reefs extend towards either shore.
The best channel is probably on the northern side, near Cape Gambier, which is in latitude 11 degrees 56 minutes 20 seconds; and there also appeared to be a wide and safe channel on the south side; but the neighbourhood of Vernon's Islands is rocky. The flood-tide sets to the eastward into the gulf.
MELVILLE ISLAND is of considerable size, and forms the western side of Van Diemen's Gulf; its greatest length from Cape Van Diemen to Cape Keith being seventy-two miles, and its greatest breadth thirty-eight miles; its circumference is two hundred miles.
We did not land on any part of it, excepting in the entrance of Apsley Strait, at Luxmoore Head (latitude 11 degrees 21 minutes, longitude 130 degrees 22 minutes) from which we were driven by the natives. It appeared fertile and more elevated than the coast to the eastward, and to possess several good harbours, particularly Apsley Strait, besides several bays on its north coast; and from the appearance of the land on its east side, and the extent and abrupt shape of the hills, it is probable that there may be a port there also. BRENTON BAY is the mouth of a small inlet, which may probably prove to be a fresh-water stream; and the bottom of LETHBRIDGE BAY appeared likely to yield one also. The hills and coast are wooded to the brink of the cliffs and sandy beaches that vary the northern shores of Melville Island. The most unproductive part appeared to be the narrow strip that extends towards Cape Van Diemen. On either side of the point, near Karslake Island, is a bay, and at the bottom of each there is an opening in the land, like those of Brenton and Lethbridge Bays.
The western trend of CAPE VAN DIEMEN is in latitude 11 degrees 8 minutes 15 seconds, and longitude 130 degrees 20 minutes 30 seconds. The coast to the south-east of the cape is formed by a range of cliffs, extending uninterruptedly for seven miles, of a most remarkable white appearance, whiter even than the usual colour of the pipe-clay cliffs to the eastward. Cape Van Diemen is a low sandy point, with a shoal spit projecting from it for four miles, within half a mile of the extremity of which we had no bottom with ten fathoms: from this a very considerable shoal (MERMAID'S SHOAL) extends to the westward and south-westward for seventeen miles; and, curving round to PIPER'S HEAD, forms the northern limit of the entrance to Apsley Strait: its western edge is rather steep; we coasted along it, and had overfalls between ten and four fathoms near its edge. It is not only possible, but very likely, that there are channels through it, but the most direct channel is round its south side, across the bar, on which there is (at low water) five fathoms. To sail into APSLEY STRAIT by this channel, if coming from the westward, steer in on the parallel of 11 degrees 15 minutes, until the northern part of Bathurst Island is seen: when the western trend of the island bears South, you will be abreast of the west extremity of the shoal off Cape Van Diemen. Steering on, you will see Piper's Head, a cliffy point, forming the north entrance to the strait, which must be kept upon the bearing of East by North, until the low, sandy, south point of the strait's entrance* is in a line with the summit of LUXMOORE HEAD, a remarkable flat-topped hill on the eastern side of the strait, bearing South 59 degrees East. Then steer East by South, keeping the lead going, and hauling to the north if the soundings are less than seven fathoms, until the strait is opened bearing South-East by South, when you may haul in for Luxmoore Head, and anchor at will.
(*Footnote. Point Brace of Captain Bremer.)
The narrowest part of the strait is where the low, sandy extremity, Point Brace, bears South 40 degrees East; the channel then is from seventeen to eighteen fathoms deep, and shoals suddenly on its south, but gradually on its north side: it is about a mile and a half wide.
APSLEY STRAIT is forty miles long, and from one to three broad; the widest part being at the north end: the southern end, for five or six miles from the outlet, is very rocky; the south entrance is in latitude 11 degrees 45 minutes; the flood sets to the southward, and the ebb, from Van Diemen's Gulf out of Clarence Strait, runs through the strait to the north, which must cause many shoals off the south entrance; the depth is generally from ten to thirteen fathoms, but is very irregular towards the south end; at low water many parts are dry, which leave the channels very intricate. We passed over it at high water without knowing our danger, for the stream of the tide carried us through the deepest part of the channel.
BATHURST ISLAND is from thirty to thirty-three miles in extent, having a circumference of a hundred and twenty miles. GORDON BAY, on its western side, affords a good shelter in the easterly monsoon; it is ten miles wide, and six deep, and terminated by PORT HURD, the entrance to which is fronted by a bar, having twelve or fourteen feet on it at low water. Near the south-western head of the bay two projecting cliffy points (Twin Cliffs) terminate a sandy bay, from which wood and, probably, water may be obtained. PORT HURD, at the bottom of Gordon Bay, in latitude 11 degrees 39 minutes 30 seconds, is a mere salt-water inlet, running up in a South-East direction for eight miles; it then separates into two creeks that wind under each side of a wooded hill; the entrance is three-quarters of a mile wide, and formed by two low points. At the back of the port are some wooded hills; one of them, Mount Hurd, kept in the opening between the two points of entrance, is the mark for the deepest part of the bar. When within the entrance the port opens, and forms a basin two miles and a quarter broad, after which it narrows and runs up at from half to a quarter of a mile wide, with a channel four and five fathoms deep.
The country here is thickly wooded, but very low, excepting a few ranges of hills that may rise to the height of two hundred feet. The south side of Bathurst Island has no sinuosities.
Near CAPE FOURCROY the coast is formed by sandhills: but, for the next fifteen miles, it is low and backed by wooded hills.
APPENDIX A. SECTION 4.
OF THE NATURE OF THE WINDS AND THE DESCRIPTION OF THE COAST BETWEEN CLARENCE STRAIT AND THE NORTH-WEST CAPE.
NORTH-WEST COAST.
The nature of the winds upon the North-west Coast, that is, between Cape Van Diemen and the North-west Cape, differs very materially from the regularity of the monsoons in the sea that divides it from Timor and the islands to the northward; excepting in the narrower part between Cape Londonderry and the Sahul Bank, where, from the contracted nature of the sea, more regular winds may be expected. The easterly monsoon commences about the beginning of April, and in the months of May and June blows with great strength, and will be found more regular close to the projecting parts of the coast, but they then rather assume the character of a sea-breeze, for the nights are generally calm.
After the month of June the winds to the westward of Cape Londonderry are very irregular, and generally blow from the southward or south-west; they are however more constant to the westward of Buccaneer's Archipelago, where the seabreezes blow principally from the North-West along the land. At intervals, during the east monsoon, the wind blows strong from South-East, but only for a short time, perhaps only for a few hours. Ships may creep along the Coast of New Holland to the eastward during the easterly monsoon, when they could not make any progress in the mid sea, without being much delayed by calms. Towards the North-west Cape, neither the monsoon nor the South East trade are much experienced, the wind being generally from the South-West or North-West.
During the strength of the westerly monsoon, that is, in the months of December and January, the wind is regular between West-North-West and West-South-West, and, in the neighbourhood of the North-west Cape, sometimes blows hard; but even in these tropical regions, when the weather is very bad, the change is predicted by the barometer, which otherwise is scarcely affected.
In February, near the coast of New Holland, the monsoon is less constant, and the wind often blows off the land, so that a ship could make her westing, when, if more to the northward, it would be impossible for her to gain any ground. At the latter end of February the westerly winds die away, and are succeeded by light, baffling, easterly winds, with damp, unwholesome weather, and attended occasionally by heavy squalls of wind and rain.
If a ship is detained late in the easterly monsoon, and wishes to get to the westward, she will find the wind more regular and strong from the eastward in the neighbourhood of Timor, where the easterly monsoon lasts until the first or second week in November: in the months of September and October, to the southward of the parallel of 12 degrees, the winds are almost constant from South-West. The currents are stronger according to the regularity and strength of the wind, and generally set at the rate of one or one knot and a half. The tides in this part of the coast are noticed in the description of the places where they were observed. High water at full and change takes place at: The anchorage off Vansittart Bay at 9 hours 15 minutes.
In Montagu Sound at 12 hours 00 minutes.
In Careening Bay at 12 hours 00 minutes.
In Prince Regent's River at 12 hours 20 minutes.
The rise of the tide, to the westward of Cape Van Diemen, and particularly to the westward of Cape Bougainville, appeared gradually to increase: the greatest that we experienced was in the vicinity of Buccaneer's Archipelago; and at the anchorage in Camden Bay the tide rose thirty-seven feet; occasioned probably by the intersected nature of the coast.
The variation in this interval is almost too trifling to be noticed for the purposes of common navigation. Between Capes Londonderry and Van Diemen it varies between 1/4 and 1 degree East. Between the former and Careening Bay it was between 1 and 1 1/2 degrees East; at Careening Bay the mean of the observations gave 3/4 of a degree West; but to the westward of that, as far as Cape Villaret, the results of the observations varied between 1 degree East and 1 degree West. Near the North-west Cape, and to the eastward of it as far as Depuch Island, it is about two degrees Westerly.
On the south-side of Clarence Strait the land is low, like the coast to the eastward. PATERSON BAY appeared to be the mouth of a river, but it was not examined. The opening to the eastward of the projecting point that forms the eastern side of Paterson Bay, seemed to be a good port; and to have an inlet at its bottom trending to the South-East.
CAPE GROSE, in latitude 12 degrees 32 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 131 degrees 26 minutes, is the western head of Paterson Bay: it is fronted by reefs that extend for a considerable distance into the sea; their extremity is nearly nine miles north from the cape.
Hence the coast extends low and sandy to POINT BLAZE, to the northward of which there is a bay: to the south the shore is wooded, and trends for eighteen miles to the north entrance of Anson Bay, which is formed by PERON ISLANDS; these are low and sandy; at the extremity of the northern island, there is a sandy peak in latitude 13 degrees 6 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 131 degrees 1 minute 20 seconds: the south end is overrun with mangroves, and it appeared very doubtful whether a channel existed between it and the smaller island, which is entirely surrounded by mangroves. This entrance to the bay is very intricate, and useless, since that to the south of the islands is so much better. Anson's Bay affords good anchorage, and probably has a small rivulet at the bottom.
CAPE FORD, in latitude 13 degrees 24 minutes 35 seconds, longitude 130 degrees 52 minutes 20 seconds, has a reef projecting for three miles from it: hence the coast trends round to the southward for thirty miles to a bay, which also has a small opening at the bottom; five miles inland there is a range of hills, on which two, of flat-topped summits, are conspicuous; and, at a distance, assume the appearance of islands. They are the Barthelemy Hills.
A few miles to the westward is PORT KEATS. TREE POINT, in latitude 13 degrees 59 minutes 20 seconds, longitude 130 degrees 34 minutes, the eastern head of the port, is surrounded by a reef, which extends from it for more than three miles. The west side has also a reef, but of much more considerable size, stretching to the northward of Cape Hay for fifteen miles; near its extremity there is a patch of dry rocks, occupying an extent of two miles. The channel within the heads is from two to four miles wide, and has anchorage in it between six and seven fathoms, mud. The port gradually contracts as it approaches the narrow mouth of the inlet to a mile and a half; it then trends to the south for six miles, where it is divided into two arms, that run up for six or seven miles more to the foot of a range of wooded hills, one of which is MOUNT GOODWIN. The western side of the inlet is occupied by a bank of clay, that dries at low water. At about three miles within the narrow entrance on the western side, there is an inlet, and above this the anchorage is good, the bottom being of clay, in which is mixed a small ironstone pebble: between the inlet and the narrows, the bottom is deep and rocky.
Between Cape Hay, in latitude 14 degrees 1 minute 30 seconds, and longitude 130 degrees 27 minutes 30 seconds, and POINT PEARCE, in latitude 14 degrees 28 minutes 30 seconds, longitude 130 degrees 17 minutes 15 seconds, the coast is still low, and was only seen at a distance. Off the latter point there is a reef which does not extend to a greater distance than a mile and a half.
To the south of Point Pearce there is a very extensive opening, which bad weather and other circumstances did not allow of being examined. It is nearly thirty miles wide, and the depth across between eight fathoms and twenty. The south shore is lined by a considerable reef extending for seven miles from the beach. The land was very indistinctly seen at the back, but, in one part, there was a space of more than eighteen miles, in which nothing was visible. The strength of the tide, the bottom being sandy instead of mud, as in other parts of the neighbourhood, and the rocky overfalls on either side of the entrance bespeak this opening to be of considerable size and importance.
The shore to CAPE DOMETT was very indistinctly seen. It occupies an extent of forty-five miles, and is fronted by extensive reefs, which project for twenty-three miles; the north extremity of the shoal water is twenty-six miles, nearly due west from Cape Pearce. It terminates with a narrow point, and then trends in to the South-West towards the coast.
The Medusa Bank fronts the entrance of Cambridge Gulf; it projects from the coast, near Cape Domett, to the North-West for seventeen miles, and terminates with a narrow spit, thirteen miles north from Lacrosse Island, in latitude 14 degrees 30 1/2 minutes. Both these banks are of sand, and their edges are very steep to. They are covered with large quantities of mollusca, which are also abundant in the sea in their vicinity.
CAMBRIDGE GULF extends from Lacrosse Island in a South-South-Westerly direction for sixty-four miles. The entrance, between Cape Domett and Cape Dussejour, is twelve miles wide; but Lacrosse Island, under which there is good anchorage for vessels going in or out of the gulf, divides the entrance into two channels. The western entrance is about two miles and a half wide, and is deepest near the island: but, at a mile from the shore, we had no bottom with fourteen and seventeen fathoms. The reefs project from Cape Dussejour for nearly three miles. On the eastern side of Lacrosse Island, within half a mile of the point, we had seven fathoms, and there was every appearance of the channel being deep in the neighbourhood of Cape Domett. Shakspeare Hill, the situation of which is in latitude 14 degrees 47 minutes 55 seconds, and longitude 128 degrees 24 minutes, is a conspicuous object on this promontory: it is high and rocky, and, at a distance, has the appearance of being insulated, like Lacrosse Island.
Having entered the gulf, it trends to the South-South-West for twenty-three miles to Adolphus Island, where it is divided into two arms, of which the westernmost is the principal. At ten miles from Lacrosse Island, the channel is narrowed by shoals to a width of five miles, the shores being twelve miles apart. The land on the western side of the gulf is high and rocky; but the opposite shore is very low, and apparently marshy. The bottom is of sand, as are the banks on either side, and affords good anchorage: the tide stream runs with great strength in mid-channel, but is easily avoided by anchoring upon the weather shore near the edge of the bank.
The channels on either side of Adolphus Island are called the East and West Arms. The East Arm is from one to two miles and a half wide, and four or five fathoms deep. At ten miles it is joined by an arm that washes the south side of Adolphus Island, and the united streams trend together in a South-East direction, under the foot of Mount Connexion, for a considerable distance. This inlet was not examined. The West Arm extends down the west side of Adolphus Island for seven miles; it is then divided by a projecting point under View Hill; and, whilst one runs to the eastward and unites with the East Arm, the other continues to trend to the southward, and then opens out to an extensive basin eleven miles in length, and from four to six in breadth; and, at seven miles, gradually contracts as it winds under the base of the Bastion Hills: before, however, you arrive at the basin, the stream is divided by several islands and rocky islets, that narrow the channel in some parts to the width of half a mile, in which the depth is very great, and the tide runs with great strength.
At the entrance of the basin the high rocky character of the west shore is superseded by low mangrove banks, with here and there a detached hill rising from a plain of low marshy land, that, at the time of our visit, was covered with a salt incrustation, occasioned by the evaporation of the sea, which, apparently, had lately flooded the low lands to a great extent: some of these plains are seven and eight miles in diameter. The hills rise abruptly; those we examined are of sandstone formation. The basin is very shoal, but there is a narrow channel in the centre, with from five to nine fathoms water. The shore, opposite the Bastion Hills, is low, and the gulf trends gradually round to the South-West for five miles, when it is contracted into a narrow communication, called The Gut, leading to an interior shoal basin, strewed with low marshy islands, which the tide covers. This basin terminates to the southward in a narrow stream, winding under the base of Mount Cockburn; and there also appeared to be several others falling into the basin more to the westward. The water was salt at the extremity of our exploration. The Gut leading to it is two miles long, and not so much as a quarter of a mile wide: in some parts we had nineteen fathoms, but in others it was deeper; it runs through a chasm in the hills, which rise abruptly, and occasionally recede and form bights, in which, in the wet season, the rains form some very considerable mountain torrents. No fresh water was seen in any part of the gulf; but as it was near the end of the dry season when we were there, it might probably be found in a more advanced season in every part of the western side, where the land is high and the gullies numerous: there is, however, no durable freshwater stream without the Gut. An alligator was observed swimming about, but very few fish were noticed.
The coast extends from Cape Dussejour to Cape Londonderry, a distance of ninety-five miles, without an opening, and with but few sinuosities of any consequence. The coast is chiefly rocky, with here and there a few sandy beaches: but the shore generally is open and exposed: there are many parts, however, where a boat might land; particularly behind BUCKLE HEAD, and a little farther on at REVELEY ISLAND: at the latter place there is a gully in the hills, at the back of the bay, which may probably produce fresh water: this bay is near Captain Baudin's MOUNT CASUARINA, a flat-topped hill, that is conspicuous from the sea. The mount is only visible between the bearings of South and West-South-West, and may be seen at the distance of seven or eight leagues. It is situated at six miles from the shore, in latitude 14 degrees 23 minutes 15 seconds, and longitude 127 degrees 36 minutes 50 seconds.
The coast is here but slightly wooded, and sufficiently elevated to conceal the interior; no part of which, excepting Mount Casuarina, could be seen. It is fronted by rocks, but they do not appear to extend more than two miles from the shore. At CAPE RULHIERES, the coast trends more westerly. To the westward of this cape are two sandy bays, in which boats might effect a landing; but they are open and exposed to the northward. To the eastward of it there are some reefs which project for more than two miles from the shore; and, at the west head of the westernmost of the bays, is an island with a reef extending for nearly three miles from it: behind the island is another bay, that appeared to be fronted by the above reef. In the offing, and at the distance of six miles from the shore, is LESUEUR ISLAND; it is about two miles in circumference, and surrounded by a coral reef, that extends for one mile and a half from its north-east end. At this part the coast is more verdant in appearance than to the eastward of Cape Rulhieres, particularly for ten miles to the South-East of Cape Londonderry; in which space there are several sandy bays, with the shores wooded to the brink of the beach: at about five miles from the cape is a small boat harbour, at the back of which a gully in the hills appeared promising for the search for fresh water, more particularly on account of the verdant appearance of the trees near it.
CAPE LONDONDERRY is a low rocky point; it is easily recognised by the reef that extends from it, and the trend of the land, which takes from it a westerly direction; there are also two small sandy islets, Stewart's Islets, at a little more than two miles from it, encompassed by the reef. The cape is in 13 degrees 44 minutes South, and 126 degrees 53 minutes 50 seconds East.
The land then extends to the westward for nearly eleven miles, to CAPE TALBOT; it is fronted by the reef that commences at Cape Londonderry, and projects from the shore for nearly five miles, but to the eastward of the cape a ship may approach it within two miles.
To the south of Cape Talbot the land trends in and forms a bay twelve miles deep, and wide, that was not examined. It is fronted by SIR GRAHAM MOORE'S ISLANDS, one of which is eight miles long, and low, excepting at the east end, where there is a flat-topped hill; there is also another remarkable summit on a smaller island, to the north of the principal island.
At twenty miles West-South-West from Cape Talbot is the east entrance of VANSITTART BAY; it is formed between MARY ISLAND and the easternmost of the ECLIPSE ISLES (Long Island) but this space, which is nearly three miles wide, is much occupied by rocks, so that it is contracted to the width of little more than half a mile.
The channel to this is between two extensive reefs, the innermost of which commences at eight miles to the westward of Cape Talbot, and extends along Sir Graham Moore's Islands to Mary Island.
The outer reef commences at about twelve miles from the cape, and extends to the westward, embracing JONES' ISLAND (in latitude 13 degrees 44 minutes, and longitude 126 degrees 23 minutes) and the Eclipse Isles. The passage is from three and a half to five miles wide, and is deep and free from danger. The bottom is rocky until within five miles of the Eclipse Islands, when good anchorage may be obtained in five and six fathoms, upon a muddy bottom.
The entrance is between Middle Rock, and a patch of dry rocks to the eastward of Long Rocks, the distance across being about half a mile. In entering the bay by this channel, steer so as to pass round Middle Rock, and upon bringing the peaked summit of Jar Island, at the bottom of the port, between it and Long Rocks, bearing South 29 1/2 degrees West, steer directly for Jar Island, until you are abreast of Middle Rock, when you may haul close round it, with fourteen and sixteen fathoms: when you have passed the Long Rocks, a course may be directed at pleasure into the bay. There is also a deep passage to the westward of Middle Rock; but it is too narrow to be safe. The tide sets through the channels with great strength; with the flood-tide there is no danger, as the stream will carry a vessel through the deepest part; with the ebb-tide, however, it should not be attempted.
The western entrance to Vansittart Bay is between the land of CAPE BOUGAINVILLE and the Eclipse Islands: it is three miles and a half wide, and quite free from danger. The approach to it, between TROUGHTON ISLAND (latitude 13 degrees 44 minutes 10 seconds, longitude 126 degrees 11 minutes) and the reefs in the offing, is six miles wide, and probably quite safe. We did not ascertain the existence of a channel on the east side of the island, but it appeared to be free from danger, and, if so, would be the best approach. ECLIPSE HILL, being higher than the land near it, and conspicuous from its flat tabular shape, is a good mark for the port; it is in latitude 13 degrees 54 minutes 20 seconds and longitude 126 degrees 18 minutes 40 seconds.
Vansittart Bay is eighteen miles deep, and from five to ten broad; it offers excellent anchorage. The eastern shore is rocky, and should not be approached nearer than a mile; but the western shore is steep to, and may be passed very close: on this side the port there are many coves and bays fit for any purposes. The most secure anchorage is in the centre of the bay, where there is from seven to nine fathoms, mud, and the sea-breeze has free access: but, if a more sheltered place is required, such may be found at the south-east corner of the bottom of the bay in six and seven fathoms, mud. High water at full and change takes place in the eastern entrance, at a quarter past nine o'clock; the tide rises about six feet.
JAR ISLAND is surrounded by rocks, but to the eastward of it the channel is twelve fathoms deep. Its summit is in latitude 14 degrees 7 minutes 10 seconds, longitude 126 degrees 15 minutes 40 seconds.
The western side of Vansittart Bay is formed by a peninsula, the extremity of which is Cape Bougainville; the northern part of this land is fronted by a reef, that extends round it for three miles from the shore, but the western side appeared to be of bold approach. The reef commences at Cape Bougainville, and trends round to Point Gibson, where it terminates. This part of the coast is fronted by extensive reefs, which render the approach to it very dangerous: at sixteen miles to the northward of the cape there is a range, the HOLOTHURIA BANKS, that extend in an east and west direction for twenty-three miles; their north-east extent was not ascertained, but the western end, in latitude 13 degrees 32 minutes, and longitude 125 degrees 46 minutes 45 seconds, is narrow, and not more than five or six miles broad.
There is another range of reefs to the westward of the cape, that extends in a north and south direction for upwards of twenty miles; and about from three to five miles broad. The water breaks on many parts of it. Its north extremity, in latitude 13 degrees 41 1/2 minutes, is sixteen miles West 3/4 North from Troughton Island: in this space the sea is quite clear, and from sixteen to twenty fathoms deep. The narrowest part of the channel, between the reef and the peninsula, is at Point Gibson, where it is more than eight miles wide, and in mid-channel about twenty-three fathoms deep.
Between Cape Bougainville and Cape Voltaire is the ADMIRALTY GULF. It is twenty-nine miles wide and twenty-two deep, independent of Port Warrender. This gulf is thickly strewed with islands and reefs: a group off Cape Voltaire was seen by the French and named by them the INSTITUTE ISLANDS, the three principal of which, of flat-topped shape, are called Descartes, Fenelon, and Corneille; besides these the Montesquieu Group, and Pascal and Condillac Islands, were distinguished. On the eastern side of the gulf, near the shore, are OSBORN'S ISLANDS, which are high and rocky: the southernmost is remarkable for its steep, precipitous form, and for its resemblance to Mount Cockburn in Cambridge Gulf. There is also a conspicuous high bluff on the principal island, which appears to have been seen by the French.
In the offing is CASSINI ISLAND; it is rather low and level, and surrounded by cliffs and rocky shores: on the eastern side are four sandy beaches, which are very much frequented by turtle: a reef projects off its north end for a mile and a half. The anchorage is good near the island, but the water is very deep. The situation of its centre is in latitude 13 degrees 55 minutes 5 seconds, and longitude 125 degrees 42 minutes.
PORT WARRENDER is an excellent port, and affords good anchorage in the bay round Crystal Head, in which a vessel is quite land-locked; but equally secure anchorage may be had for five miles higher up the port, in from four to seven fathoms, mud. It extends for six miles farther, but the depth in some parts is not more than two fathoms.
At eleven miles from the entrance, the port is separated into two inlets, which wind under the base of a dividing range of high, steep, and wooded hills; these run up for five miles higher, when they become mere mangrove creeks. There is probably another inlet on the east side of Port Warrender which we did not examine, since it appeared to be less considerable in size, and important in appearance, than the arm which we had examined. CRYSTAL HEAD is in latitude 14 degrees 28 minutes, and longitude 125 degrees 55 minutes 30 seconds.
WALMESLY BAY appeared to be a good port also, but it is open to the eastward. We did not enter it.
CAPE VOLTAIRE is the extremity of a promontory, extending for more than twenty miles into the sea, and separating the Admiralty Gulf from Montagu Sound. There is a flat-topped hill near its extremity, in latitude 14 degrees 14 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 125 degrees 40 minutes 12 seconds; and, at three miles more to the southward, a peaked hill; its shores on either side are rocky, and indented by bays. At one part the width across to Walmesly Bay cannot be more than a mile and a half.
The MONTALIVET ISLES, about six leagues from the main, consist of three rocky islands; they are visible for six or seven leagues from the deck: the north-easternmost is in latitude 14 degrees 13 minutes 40 seconds, longitude 125 degrees 19 minutes 30 seconds.
MONTAGU SOUND extends from Cape Voltaire to the north end of Bigge's Island, a distance of thirty-one miles, and is from eleven to twenty miles deep. It is fronted by a range of islands; the outer range, which is eight miles within the Montalivet Isles, was called PRUDHOE ISLANDS; besides which there were several scattered about the sound, and some of larger size near the main: of the latter are KATER'S and WOLLASTON'S. They are of a very rocky character, and furnished with but a poor and shallow soil, although the surface is thickly covered with small trees, growing most luxuriantly. WATER ISLAND, to the north-east, in latitude 14 degrees 21 minutes, and longitude 125 degrees 32 minutes 25 seconds, was visited by us, as was also CAPSTAN ISLAND, in the south-west corner of the sound. The latter island is in latitude 14 degrees 35 minutes 20 seconds, and longitude 125 degrees 16 minutes 20 seconds. They are both rocky, and destitute of any soil but what is formed by the decomposition of the vegetables that grow upon the island. The channels between them appeared to be clear and free from hidden danger. The depth among the islands is from ten to fifteen fathoms on a muddy bottom; but the anchorage is better between Kater Island and the promontory that separates it from Walmesly Bay, than any other part. It is a very fine port, particularly near the bottom, in SWIFT'S BAY, where the depth is from four to five fathoms at low water, It is high water at full and change in Swift's Bay at twelve o'clock, which is two hours and a quarter later than in Vansittart Bay: the tide rose eighteen feet, whereas in Port Warrender its rise was only six. The islands off the north-east end of Bigge's Island are more numerous than in other parts of the sound: they were only seen at a distance, and too numerous to give correct positions to. BIGGE'S ISLAND is fourteen miles long, and from six to seven broad; it is of moderate height, and rocky character: its south end appeared to be thickly wooded. A flat-topped hill near the shore of Scott's Strait is a remarkable object, and may be seen six or seven leagues off. It is in latitude 14 degrees 39 minutes 20 seconds, and longitude 125 degrees 10 minutes 20 seconds.
SCOTT'S STRAIT is a channel separating Bigge's Island from the main: it is thirteen miles long, and from three to one and a quarter broad. It is of irregular depth, and has some rocks in mid-channel, which are dry: the deepest channel is near the eastern shore, the depth being from ten to fourteen fathoms. The strait does not terminate until you are to the westward of Cape Pond, for there are several islets off the south end of Bigge's Island, and a considerable reef, through which, although there may be deep channels, yet they must be narrow. Off the north-west end of Bigge's Island are several rocky islets; the outer ones were seen by me in the Bathurst (see above): they are the MARET ISLES of Commodore Baudin; they consist of four or five principal islands, of about two miles in length, besides as many more of very small size off the south extremity of the group. The northern point of the northernmost island is in latitude 15 degrees 7 minutes 15 seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 56 minutes 40 seconds. The group is fronted on the north-west side by a considerable reef, extending North by East 1/2 East for seven miles; the outer edge being three miles and a half to the westward of the group.
YORK SOUND is fourteen miles wide and ten deep: it is contained between Cape Pond and the northern extreme of the Coronation Islands. It is spacious, but the bottom, in the middle, is rocky: there is, however, very good anchorage near the Coronation Islands; and there is also, possibly, as good on the eastern shore to the south of CAPE POND, which has a rocky island immediately off it, the situation of which is in latitude 14 degrees 43 minutes 20 seconds, and longitude 125 degrees 9 minutes 25 seconds.
At the bottom of York Sound is PRINCE FREDERIC'S HARBOUR, a fine spacious port, fourteen miles long, and from five to seven broad: it is terminated by two rivers, namely Hunter's and Roe's. It has several rocky islands on either shore; and, at the bottom, they are numerous. The tide here rises at the springs twenty-nine feet. The anchorage is not so good in the entrance of the port, but a good bottom may be found as soon as Hunter's River begins to open, and bears East 1/2 North, and when you are within a small island that is in the centre of the port; but an anchorage may very probably be obtained on the northern shore, or, indeed, any where out of the strength of the tides.
HUNTER'S RIVER runs up for about fourteen miles. It is about one mile and a half wide at the entrance, and preserves that width for more than four miles, when it suddenly contracts and becomes shoal, and very tortuous in its course, and winds through a narrow chasm in the rocks, which rise precipitously in some parts for at least two or three hundred feet. A vessel may anchor in seven fathoms near the end of the first reach; its course is to the East-North-East. There is a remarkable rock at the entrance, in latitude 15 degrees 1 minute 30 seconds, and longitude 125 degrees 24 minutes. ROE'S RIVER first trends for seventeen miles to the East by South, and then, taking a sudden turn to the south, runs up for thirteen miles more; after which it trends to the South-East, and was supposed to run up for at least ten miles farther. Its entrance for seven miles forms a very good harbour, being from two to six fathoms deep; but, in anchoring here, it must be recollected that the tide falls twenty-nine feet. This river, like Hunter's River, is bounded on either bank by precipitous hills, which, in many parts, are inaccessible.
Five miles to the westward of Cape Torrens is Point Hardy: off the latter is an islet; and three miles, North by East 1/2 East from it, is a reef, on which the sea breaks. This point is the east head of PORT NELSON, which extends to the southward from it for eight miles: its western side is formed by the Coronation Islands: its width is three miles, with good anchorage all over it. At the bottom is CAREENING BAY, where the Mermaid was repaired. The latitude of the beach in 15 degrees 6 minutes 18 seconds, and longitude 125 degrees 0 minutes 46 seconds.* Port Nelson communicates with the sea to the westward of the Coronation Islands, which may be considered a strait. At the south-west end of the southernmost island, where the strait is narrowest, and not more than one mile and a quarter wide, there is a patch of rocks in the centre, which always shows: the channel on the north side of these rocks is the best: the water is very deep, and the tide sets right through.
(*Footnote. The latitude of the observatory was taken every day during our stay, using the sea-horizon, but the effect of refraction was so great that the daily observations varied as much as 3 minutes 43 seconds.
The mean of 15 meridional altitudes with the sextant made the latitude 15 degrees 6 minutes 22.5 seconds, and of fourteen observations with the circle 15 degrees 6 minutes 13.8 seconds. Mean for the latitude of the observatory 15 degrees 6 minutes 18 seconds South.
The longitude was deduced by the mean of the observations of our two visits; namely, in October, 1820, and August, 1821: the latter were taken at Sight Point, in Prince Regent's River, the difference of the meridians of the two places, by chronometers and survey, being 8 minutes 52.8 seconds.
1820. September 28 and 29. By twenty sets of lunar distances with the sun, containing one hundred sights with the sextant, the sun being to the east of the moon, the longitude is 125 degrees 11 minutes 24.3 seconds.
1821. August 2nd and 3rd. By seventeen sets of lunar distances with the sun, containing eighty-five sights with the sextant, the sun being to the west of the moon, the longitude of Sight Point, in Prince Regent's River, was found to be 124 degrees 41 minutes 15.3 seconds, or of Careening Bay 124 degrees 50 minutes 8.1 seconds.
The mean is the longitude of the observatory 125 degrees 0 minutes 46 seconds East.)
The CORONATION ISLANDS separate York Sound from Brunswick Bay, and are situated in front of Port Nelson. The group consists of seventeen or eighteen islands, besides numerous rocky islets. On the largest island are two remarkable peaks; the easternmost is in 14 degrees 59 minutes, and longitude 124 degrees 56 minutes 5 seconds. The island is eight miles long, and from four to two wide; the others are from three to one mile in length; they are covered with vegetation, and the larger islands are well clothed with trees. The great rise of the tide would render this part of the coast of importance, was it not for the wretched state of the country, and the unproductiveness of its soil, which are great drawbacks upon the advantage of the tide's unusual rise. It is high water at full and change in Port Nelson at twelve o'clock, as it is also in Montagu Sound.
Beyond the Coronation Islands there is a string of small, rocky islands extending for sixteen miles: the westernmost is Freycinet's Group; the principal island of which Captain De Freycinet has described as resembling an inverted bowl; and, from this description, we had no difficulty in finding it out; it is in latitude 15 degrees 0 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 32 minutes 40 seconds. Among the other islands we distinguished the islets Colbert, Keraudren, and Buffon. On the last there is a small, grassy, peaked hillock, in latitude 14 degrees 55 minutes 25 seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 43 minutes 20 seconds.
We passed out to sea between Freycinet's Group and Keraudren; and within one mile and a half of the latter had eighteen fathoms: it appeared, from the colour of the water, to have a reef projecting to the westward.
BRUNSWICK BAY is at the back of these islands, and extends from CAPE BREWSTER, in latitude 15 degrees 6 minutes 10 seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 55 minutes 5 seconds, which terminates Port Nelson, to Point Adieu. It is an extensive bay or sound, and is about twenty miles in extent, with good anchorage all over it. The coast is here very much indented by rivers and bays; among which may be particularized Prince Regent's River, Hanover Bay, and Port George the Fourth.
PRINCE REGENT'S RIVER is, without exception, the most remarkable feature of the North-West Coast. In general the inlets of this coast form extensive ports at their entrance; and, when they begin to assume the character of a river, their course becomes tortuous, and very irregular; of which there cannot be a better instance than the neighbouring river, Roe's River. Prince Regent's River trends into the interior in a South-East by East direction for fifty-four miles. With scarcely a point to intercept the view, after being thirteen miles within it. The entrance is formed by Cape Wellington on the east, and High Bluff on the west, a width of eight miles, but is so much contracted by islands, that, in hauling round Cape Wellington, the width is suddenly reduced to little more than a mile: at the branching off of Rothsay Water, it is little more than half a mile, and also the same width at the entrance of St. George's Basin. In this space, however, it is in some parts a little wider, but in no part between projecting points is it more than one mile and a quarter. For the first nine miles the stream is narrowed by islands; beyond this, its boundaries are formed by the natural banks of the river. On the eastern side, within Cape Wellington, is a deep bay, but of shoal and rocky appearance. At six miles farther on are two inlets, ROTHSAY and MUNSTER WATERS, near which the tide forms rapid eddies and whirlpools, that render its approach dangerous. In mid-channel is a group of isles; and, off the easternmost, a reef projects to the eastward for more than half a mile, round which a vessel must pass; here the channel is not more than half a mile wide. Munster Water, on the western side, communicates with Hanover Bay by a narrow strait, with very good anchorage in it in four and five fathoms mud; it is, however, an inconvenient place to go to, if a vessel is bound any farther up the river. Rothsay Water is a very considerable arm; and was conjectured to communicate with Prince Frederic's Harbour, and, if so, would insulate the land between Capes Torrens and Wellington. We did not enter Rothsay Water; and the tides and whirlpools were too rapid and dangerous to trust our small boats without running a very great risk. At the entrance of this arm, on the south shore, there appeared to be a shoal-bank. Halfway Bay offers very good anchorage out of the strength of the tides, with abundance of room to get underweigh from. The northernmost point of the bay, SIGHT POINT, has a small islet off it (LAMMAS ISLET) where the observations were taken to fix the longitude of Careening Bay. (See above.) The two bays on the opposite, or north-east shore, are shoal, and not fit for any vessel drawing more than six or seven feet; and the shores are so lined with mangroves, as in most parts to defy all attempts at landing. After passing them, the shores approach each other within three-quarters of a mile, but the south-west shore is fronted by a rocky shoal, which narrows it to less than half a mile; here the tide runs very strong, and forms whirlpools. On passing the point, the river opens into a large, spacious reach, which was called ST. GEORGE'S BASIN; and two conspicuous islands in it were called ST. ANDREW and ST. PATRICK'S ISLANDS. At the north-east corner are two remarkable hills, MOUNTS TRAFALGAR and WATERLOO: the situation of the summit of the former is in latitude 15 degrees 16 minutes 35 seconds, and longitude 125 degrees 4 minutes. The basin is from eight to nine miles in diameter, but affords no safe anchorage until a vessel is above St. Patrick's Island. The northern side of the basin is shoaler, and has two small inlets, which trend in on either side of the mounts, and run in for upwards of five miles, but they are salt. At the south side of the basin there are two or three inlets of considerable size, that trend in towards a low country. At ten miles South-East by East from the narrow entrance to the basin the river again resumes its narrow channel, and runs up so perfectly straight for fourteen miles in a South-East by East course, that the hills, which rise precipitously on either bank, were lost in distance, and the river assumed the most exact appearance of being a strait; it was from one to one mile and a quarter wide, and generally of from four to eight fathoms deep on a bottom of yellow sand: the river then took a slight bend, and continued to run up for twelve or thirteen miles further, with a few slight curves, and gradually to decrease in width until terminated by a bar of rocks; which, when the tide rose high enough to fall over, was very dangerous to pass: here a considerable gully joins the main stream, and, being fresh water, was supposed to have the same source as Roe's River. The river trended up for about three or four miles farther, when it is entirely stopped by a rapid formed of stones, beyond which we did not persevere in tracing it; the tide did not reach above this, and the stream was perceived to continue and form a very beautiful fresh-water river, about two or three hundred yards wide. As our means did not allow of our persevering any further, we gave up our examination. At seventeen miles above St. George's Basin, on the south shore, we found a cascade of fresh water falling in a considerable quantity from the height of one hundred and forty feet; and this, in the rainy season, must be a very large fall, for its breadth is at least fifty yards. At the time of our visit it was near the end of the dry season: and even then there was a very considerable quantity falling. Several small inlets trended in on either side of the river above the basin, particularly one upon the north side, which, from the height of the hills under which it trended, would probably produce a freshwater stream. In 1821 the Bathurst watered from the cascade, but the fatigue was too great, and the heat too powerful, for the boats' crew had to pull nearly forty miles every trip. High water took place in St. George's Basin at twenty minutes after twelve o'clock: the tide rose twenty-four feet.
HANOVER BAY is a very convenient port, about five miles deep, but exposed from the North-North-West; the anchorage is, however, so good, that no danger need be apprehended. At the bottom of the bay there is a deep chasm in the land, yielding a fresh-water stream; beyond this the bay terminates in a shoal basin. In the offing are several rocky islets, particularly one, a high rock, which is very remarkable. A little to the north-east of the river is a sandy beach, the situation of which is in latitude 15 degrees 18 minutes 21 seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 46 minutes 50 seconds.
HIGH BLUFF, the extremity of the promontory separating Hanover Bay from Port George the Fourth, speaks for itself. It is in latitude 15 degrees 14 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 41 minutes 35 seconds. Between High Bluff and Point Adieu, in latitude 15 degrees 14 minutes 10 seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 34 minutes 45 seconds, is PORT GEORGE THE FOURTH, having midway in its entrance a high island nearly two miles long; and to the southward, in the centre of the port, a high rocky islet, the LUMP, the summit of which is situated in latitude 15 degrees 18 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 37 minutes 50 seconds. The western side of the port is an extensive island, AUGUSTUS ISLAND, eleven miles long; it is high and rocky, and has several bays on its eastern side. The port affords very good anchorage, particularly between Entrance Island and the Lump, in nine fathoms, mud; but there is also very good anchorage with the Lump bearing west, in ten fathoms, mud. Port George the Fourth terminates in a strait, ROGER'S STRAIT, communicating with Camden Bay. The best entrance to the port is on the eastern side of Entrance Island; for the opposite, although practicable and sufficiently deep for the largest ships, is narrow, and must be buoyed before it can be used.
POINT ADIEU is the last land seen by us in 1820: it is the north-east end of Augustus Island, and is a rocky, bluff point. In the offing, at the distance of three miles, there is a considerable range of reefs, that extend from the peaked island of Jackson's Isles; and more to the north-west is another group of rocky islands.
To the westward of Augustus Island is a range of islands extending for five leagues; on their north side they are fronted by considerable coral reefs, which at low water are dry; besides which there are several small islets that contract the channels, and render the navigation intricate and difficult. Between Augustus and Byam Martin's Islands there is an open strait, of one mile and a half wide; but, its communication with the sea to the north, appears to be little more than half a mile. BYAM MARTIN'S ISLAND is separated from a range of small islets, extending North-North-East by a strait; and these last are divided from the Champagny Isles by another strait, from twenty-eight to thirty fathoms deep, through which the tide runs with great force. Off the north end of Byam Martin's Island are several smaller islets and coral reefs; the latter extend from it for more than six miles: the north-westernmost of these islets is the land seen in 1801 by Captain Heywood, and was called by him Vulcan Point: RED ISLAND, which he also saw, is eight miles to the westward; it is in latitude 15 degrees 13 minutes 15 seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 15 minutes 45 seconds: between it and Champagny Isles the ebbing tide uncovered several extensive reefs. Ten miles North 26 degrees East from Red Island, and South 71 degrees West from Freycinet's Island, is a dry sandbank surrounded by a reef.
DEGERANDO ISLAND, so called by the French, is the southernmost of the CHAMPAGNY ISLES: considerable reefs extend off its south end, which are dry at low water; its centre is in latitude 15 degrees 20 minutes 45 seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 13 minutes 15 seconds.
CAMDEN BAY is formed between Byam Martin's Island and Pratt's Islands, and extends to the eastward to Roger's Strait; it is twelve miles deep and eight wide. Here the tide rose and fell thirty-seven feet and a half, the moon's age being nineteen days. High water took place thirteen minutes after the moon's transit.
Between Camden Bay and Point Swan, a distance of ninety miles, the mainland falls back, and forms a very considerable opening fronted by a multitude of islands, islets, and reefs, into which, from our loss of anchors; we were not able to penetrate. From Camden Bay the islands, for the coast seemed too irregular to be the mainland, extend in a range in a south direction for more than fifty-five miles, to where there appeared to be a deep opening, or strait, from three to five miles wide. An irregular line of coast then appeared to extend for seven leagues to the North-West, and afterwards to the westward for five or six leagues. To the westward of this, the land appeared to be less continuous, and to be formed by a mass of islands separated by deep and narrow straits, through some of which the tide was observed to rush with considerable strength, foaming and curling in its stream, as if it were rushing through a bed of rocks: this was particularly observed among the islands to the south of Macleay's Islands. After extending for thirty miles farther to the South-West, the land terminates evidently in islands, which then trend to the South-East; and to the westward they are separated from Cygnet Bay, and the land to the southward of it by a strait five or six leagues wide. The narrowest part of this strait is at Point Cunningham, where it is twelve miles wide; two-thirds over to the islands are two rocky islets, which bear due south from Sunday Strait.
MONTGOMERY ISLANDS, a group of seven islets on the eastern side of this extensive range of islands, which are named BUCCANEER'S ARCHIPELAGO, are low and of small extent, particularly the six easternmost, none of which are a mile long: the westernmost, which has an extensive reef stretching to the North-West, is more than three miles in diameter, and appears to be of different formation to the other, being low and flat, whilst the rest are scarcely better than a heap of stones, slightly clothed with vegetation. Between the easternmost islet and the land, there is a strait of a league in width. The tide prevented our trying its depth: a league and a half to the north-west, at high-water, we had irregular soundings between ten and sixteen fathoms, but six fathoms must be deducted from it to reduce it to the depth at low water.
Three leagues to the north-west of Montgomery's westernmost island are COCKELL'S ISLES, two in number, low and flat, but of small size. A reef extends for more than five miles to the westward, and it was not thought improbable that it might be connected with the reefs that extend to the westward of Montgomery Islands. The centre of the largest island is in 15 degrees 48 minutes South, and 124 degrees 4 minutes East. To the North-East of Cockell's Islands the flood-tide sets to the south; but to the westward with great strength to the South-East, and, at an anchorage ten miles to the eastward of Macleay Isles, the tide rose and fell thirty-six feet, the moon being twenty-one days old. Cockell's Islands are twenty miles from the land to the south; and in this interval, but within four leagues from the shore, are several small rocky islets, on one of which there is a remarkable lump; nearer the shore are two islands, which have a more fertile and verdant appearance than any other part near them: these form the western extremity of COLLIER'S BAY.
MACLEAY ISLES lie in a North by West direction, and are eight miles in extent; the principal and highest island is near the south end of the group; those to the northward are small and straggling. The centre of the highest is in latitude 15 degrees 57 minutes, and longitude 123 degrees 42 minutes.
CAFFARELLI ISLAND was seen by the French. Its summit is in latitude 16 degrees 2 minutes 25 seconds, and longitude 123 degrees 18 minutes 35 seconds. It is the north-westernmost of a range of islands, extending in the direction of North 60 degrees West; among which Cleft Island, so named from a remarkable cleft or chasm near its north end, and DAMPIER'S MONUMENT, are conspicuous: the latter is a high lump. This range is separated from one of a similar nature, and extending in a like direction to the eastward, by a strait from three to four miles wide, and from fifteen to twenty deep.
Fourteen miles North 68 degrees West from the summit of Caffarelli Island is BRUE REEF, a circular patch of rocks of about a mile in diameter; three miles to the north-east of which we had irregular soundings, between thirty-eight and forty-five fathoms on a rocky bottom. The reef is in 15 degrees 57 minutes South, and 123 degrees 4 minutes 45 seconds East.
Six miles south of Caffarelli Island, is a rocky island, surrounded by a reef; and eight miles farther are several small rocky islands, forming the north extremity of a range, which, extending to the South by East for ten miles, form the eastern side of Sunday Strait, which is the best, and in fact the only safe communication with the deep opening between Point Cunningham and the islands to the eastward. Between this strait and Point Swan, a distance of eleven miles, the space is occupied by a multitude of islands and islets, separated from each other by narrow and, probably, by deep channels, through which the tide rushes with frightful rapidity. Sunday Strait is more than four miles wide, and appears to be free from danger. The tide sets through it at the rate of four or five miles an hour, and forms strong ripplings, which would be, perhaps, dangerous for a boat to encounter. The vessel was whirled round several times in passing through it; but a boat, by being able to pull, might in a great measure avoid passing through them.
CYGNET BAY is formed between the islands and Point Cunningham; it is fronted by a bank, over which the least water that we found was two fathoms; within this bank there is good anchorage, and near the inlets at the bottom of the bay, there is a muddy bottom, with eight and nine fathoms mud.
POINT CUNNINGHAM projects slightly to the eastward; its easternmost extremity is in latitude 16 degrees 39 minutes 20 seconds and longitude 123 degrees 10 minutes; from the northward it has the appearance of being an island, as the land to the westward is rather lower: two miles and a half south of it is Carlisle Head, the north extremity of GOODENOUGH BAY.
The shore thence extends in a South-South-East direction for seventeen miles, in which space there is a shoal bay, beyond which we did not penetrate. Off the point is an islet, in latitude about 16 degrees 58 minutes, and to the south of it the land was seen trending to the South by East for four or five miles, when it was lost in distance. From this anchorage no land was distinctly seen to the eastward; between the bearings of East-North-East and South-South-East, a slight glimmering of land was raised above the horizon, by the effect of refraction; but this, as in a case that occurred before in a neighbouring part off Point Gantheaume, might be at least fifty miles off.
From all that is at present known of this remarkable opening, there is enough to excite the greatest interest; since, from the extent of the opening, the rapidity of the stream, and the great rise and fall of the tides, there must be a very extensive gulf or opening, totally different from everything that has been before seen.
There is also good reason to suspect that the land between Cape Leveque and Point Gantheaume is an island; and if so, the mouth of this opening is eight miles wide; besides, who is to say that the land even of Cape Villaret may not also be an island? The French expedition only saw small portions of the coast to the southward; but it does not appear probable that the opening extends to the southward of Cape Villaret. (See above.)
Thirty-three miles in a North 14 degrees West direction from the summit of Caffarelli Island is ADELE ISLAND. It is low, and merely covered with a few shrubs, and is about three miles from east to west, and from one to one and a half broad; its west end is in 15 degrees 30 minutes South, and 123 degrees 9 minutes 15 seconds East. At about a league North-West from its western end are two bare sandy islets, which were uncovered as we passed, but which as there was not the slightest appearance of vegetation upon it, may be covered at high water. On the western side of Adele Island, is an extensive patch of light-coloured water, in some parts of which the sea broke upon the rocks, which were only just below the surface. The light-coloured water extends for fourteen miles North West by West 1/2 West from Adele Island, but there is reason to think that the water is deep over the greater part of it; for we crossed over its tail, and sounded in forty-five fathoms without finding bottom, whilst in the darker-coloured water on either side of it, we had forty-two and forty-four fathoms.
POINT SWAN is the north-easternmost point of the land of Cape Leveque; it has an island close off its extremity, round which the tide rushes with great force, and forms a line of ripplings for ten miles to the West-North-West, through which, even in the Bathurst, we found it dangerous to pass. Five miles to the north-eastward of the point are two small rocky islets, two miles apart from each other.
CAPE LEVEQUE is low and rocky, with a small islet close to its extremity: its extreme is in latitude 16 degrees 21 minutes 50 seconds, and longitude 122 degrees 56 minutes 35 seconds. Between the cape and Point Swan, there is a sandy bay, fronted by a bed of rocks. It was in this bay that the Buccaneers anchored, which Dampier has so well described.
The coast between CAPES LEVEQUE and BORDA extending South 40 degrees West nineteen miles, is low and rocky, and the country sandy and unproductive. Between Cape Borda and Point Emeriau is a bay ten miles deep, backed by very low sandy land; and five miles further is another bay, that appeared to be very shoal: thence the coast extends to the South-West for twenty-three miles to CAPE BASKERVILLE; it is low and sandy, like that to the northward, but the interior is higher, and with some appearance of vegetation.
Thirteen miles from the shore are the LACEPEDE ISLANDS; they are three in number, and surrounded by a reef nine miles long by five wide. They lie in a North-West direction, and are two miles apart: the north-westernmost is in latitude 16 degrees 49 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 122 degrees 7 minutes 20 seconds: they are low and slightly clothed with bushes, and seem to be little more than the dry parts of the reef, on which a soil has been accumulated, and in time produced vegetation. These islands appear to be the haunt of prodigious numbers of boobies. The variation is 0 degrees 12 minutes West.
In latitude 16 degrees 46 minutes, and longitude 121 degrees 50 minutes 30 seconds, the French have placed a reef, BANC DES BALEINES; which we did not approach near enough to see.
Between Capes Baskerville and Berthollet, is CARNOT BAY; it is six miles deep, and backed by low land. The bottom of the bay was not distinctly seen, but from the appearance of the land behind the beach, it is not improbable that there may be a rivulet falling into it.
At POINT COULOMB, in latitude 17 degrees 21 minutes, where there is a range of dark red cliffs, the coast commences to present a more verdant and pleasing appearance than to the north: the interior rises to an unusual height, and forms a round-backed hill, covered with trees: it reminded us of the appearance of the country of the north coast, and is so different from the rugged and barren character of the Islands of Buccaneer's Archipelago as to afford an additional ground for our conjecture of the insularity of this land. The red cliffs extend for four miles to the southward of Point Coulomb, and are then superseded by a low coast, composed alternately of rocky shores and sandy beaches.
CAPE BOILEAU is seventeen miles to the south of Point Coulomb; here the shore trends in and forms a bay fifteen miles wide and six deep: the south head is the land of Point Gantheaume, which is composed of sandhills very bare of vegetation, as was also the character of the interior. From Point Gantheaume, in latitude 17 degrees 53 minutes, the coast trends to the South-East for about fifteen miles, where it was lost to view in distance: the extreme was a low sandy point, and appeared to be the south extremity of the land. The space to the south of this, which appeared to be a strait, insulating the land to the north as far as Cape Leveque, is nine miles wide. The south shore trends to the westward to Cape Villaret, on which there is a remarkable hillock, in latitude 18 degrees 19 minutes 5 seconds, and longitude 122 degrees 3 minutes 45 seconds.
The space between the Cape and Point Gantheaume was called ROEBUCK BAY. It is here that Captain Dampier landed, in the year 1688.
Three miles to the south of the hillock on Cape Villaret, are two lumps, which at a distance appeared like rocks. Cape Latouche-Treville has a small hummock near its extremity, in latitude 18 degrees 29 minutes, and longitude 121 degrees 50 minutes 50 seconds; to the eastward of it, there is a shallow bay open to the northward.
The depth of water in the offing of Roebuck Bay, is between eight and twelve fathoms; the bottom is sandy, and there are in some parts sandbanks, on which the depth decreased three fathoms at one heave, but the least water was eight fathoms. The flood-tide sets to the eastward, towards the opening, and at an anchorage near Cape Latouche-Treville, the ebb ran to the North-East: but the tides were at the neaps, and did not rise more than sixteen feet. Captain Dampier, at the springs, found it flow thirty feet, which tends unquestionably to prove the opening behind Roebuck Bay to be considerable, even if it does not communicate with that behind the Buccaneer's Archipelago.
The interval between Cape Latouche-Treville and Depuch Island, was not seen by us. The following brief description of it is taken from M. De Freycinet's account of Commodore Baudin's voyage.
LAGRANGE BAY, to the east of Cape Bossut, is a bight, the bottom of which was not seen. CAPE BOSSUT is low and sandy, as well as the neighbouring land; and, with the exception of a small grove of trees a little to the north of Cape Duhamel, the country is sterile everywhere.
The CASUARINA REEF is a bank of sand and rocks, parts of which are dry, on which the sea occasionally breaks. The channel between it and the shore is narrow and shoal, the depth being two and a half fathoms. The dry part of the reef extends from east to west for about two miles.
Between CAPES DUHAMEL and MISSIESSY, the coast is sandy and sterile, with rocky projections: GEOFFROY and DESAULT BAYS are of the same character.
With the exception of two intervals, one of which is to the west of Cape Missiessy, and the other to the east of the Bancs des Planaires, the French saw the coast between Capes Missiessy and Keraudren, but at a great distance. It appeared low and sterile.
The BANCS DES PLANAIRES appeared to have a considerable longitudinal extent; it was not ascertained whether they joined the mainland: some parts seemed to be dry at low water.
There is a bank with only fourteen feet water over it, situated nearly North-East from Cape Keraudren in 19 degrees 41 minutes latitude.
North, a little westerly, from CAPE LARREY, between which and Cape Keraudren there is a bay with an island (POISSONNIER) in the entrance, is BEDOUT ISLAND. It is in latitude 19 degrees 29 minutes, longitude 116 degrees 32 minutes, East of Paris, or 118 degrees 52 minutes East of Greenwich. It is low and sandy.
The BANC DES AMPHINOMES is very extensive, and appeared to be connected with the main; it is composed of coral, rocks, and sand.
The coast to the South-West of Cape Larrey is, as well as the Cape itself, of a remarkable red colour. The country appeared to be sterile.
TURTLE ISLANDS, two in number, lie West-North-West from Cape Larrey: the south-westernmost is merely a flat sandy islet (PLATEAU DE SABLE) the other is surrounded by a reef of coral, upon which the sea breaks. The Casuarina (M. De Freycinet's vessel) had nine fathoms within half a mile of it; the reef appeared to be steep, and the island to afford a landing in fine weather.
The land is equally low and sandy as far as CAPE THOUIN and CAPE COSSIGNY.
The GEOGRAPHE REEFS extend for more than twelve miles, and perhaps are joined to the land. Their southern parts dry at low water. The Geographe sailed through them, so that it is probable they are detached in numerous reefs.
At FORESTIER ISLANDS we saw the coast again. The main is here very low, but from the shoalness of the water we were not able to penetrate behind Depuch Island. It is very uncertain whether the coastline that is laid down upon the chart is correct: it was scarcely visible from the deck, and was so low that it might have merely been the dry parts of extensive reefs. The high land retires for fifteen or twenty miles, and forms an amphitheatre or deep bay, with some hills of considerable elevation in the distance.
All the islands of this group are low and sandy, excepting DEPUCH, which is high, and of a very peculiar formation; it is described in the first volume.
We did not land upon it, but on its north-east side there appeared to be a bay, on which the French found a stream of water.
Between DEPUCH ISLAND and CAPE LAMBERT the coast is very shoal. Towards the latter the hills approach the sea, and the bottom is deeper. BEZOUT ISLAND is connected to the cape by a reef, on which there are several dry rocks; we passed close round its north-east edge, and had eleven fathoms.
To the westward of Cape Lambert, in latitude 20 degrees 24 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 117 degrees 7 minutes, there are two deep openings, which appeared to be merely bays, but their bottom was not distinctly seen. On the top of the hill of the projecting point that separates them, there are three remarkable rocky summits. The next point has several round-backed hills upon it; it is the east head of NICKOL'S BAY, into which there may possibly fall one or more streams; its shores are low, and appeared to be lined with mangroves. Nickol's Bay affords good anchorage in six and seven fathoms, and is only exposed to the North-East. It is protected from westerly winds by high land: it is, however, rather exposed to the South-West winds, from the little elevation of the land in that direction; but if a vessel should drive, the passage between Bezout and Delambre Island is clear and, as far as we know, free from danger.
DELAMBRE ISLAND has very extensive reefs stretching to the northward, and also to the eastward, but on its western side did not appear to extend for more than half a mile: the hill at the north end of the island is in latitude 20 degrees 23 minutes 35 seconds, and longitude 117 degrees 1 minute 25 seconds; the passage between it and the reef off HAUY ISLAND, is about two miles and a half wide, and from nine to ten fathoms deep. The edge of the reef off the latter island is not well defined, for we passed several straggling rocks.
LEGENDRE ISLAND is the northernmost of Dampier's Archipelago: it is nine miles long, and from half to one and a half mile broad: near its south-east end, which is connected to HAUY ISLAND, there are several rocky islets, and near its extremity it has three remarkable hillocks; its North-West point is in latitude 20 degrees 18 minutes 45 seconds, and longitude 116 degrees 46 minutes; its north-east coast and north-west extremity are of bold approach: the latter has a reef that fronts its shores, extending for about a quarter of a mile into the sea; the ground under its lee is rocky, and not safe to anchor near. Our cable hooked a rock, fortunately however it was rotten, and broke away, so that the cable, being a chain was not damaged.
The islands of DAMPIER'S ARCHIPELAGO, are of high rocky character, and very different from either the coast or the islands in their vicinity. It consists of about twenty islands, besides smaller ones, scattered over a space of forty miles in extent: Delambre is the easternmost island, and a small sandy island to the South-West of Enderby Island is the westernmost.
GIDLEY ISLAND, and two others to the eastward, extend in a north and south direction; they are high and rocky. The west shore of Gidley Island appeared to be fronted by a continuous reef, on which some patches of dry rocks were observed. Gidley Island is separated from Legendre Island by a very shoal and rocky strait, apparently impassable for anything larger than boats. It has several small sandy islets scattered about it, and at low water the greater part is dry. There is doubtless a deep passage through, but it must be intricate and dangerous, and only to be attempted in a case of the most pressing emergency. On the island to the southward, are two sandy bays. The land to the southward is doubtless a part of the main: and is, like the other islands, high and rocky. It forms the eastern shore of MERMAID's STRAIT, which is an excellent port, affording safe and secure anchorage at all seasons.
The islands on the western side of the strait, are LEWIS and MALUS. The north-east point of the latter island, COURTENAY HEAD, is, without doubt, Captain Dampier's Bluff Head. It is a very remarkable point; its summit is in 20 degrees 29 minutes 5 seconds South, and 116 degrees 36 minutes 35 seconds East. On its west side is a sandy bay with good anchorage in four and five fathoms. Malus Island is separated from Lewis Island by a strait a mile wide; it is probably deep.
The north-east point of LEWIS ISLAND is a narrow projecting tongue of land, terminating in a high rocky lump; and to the southward of it, are two high rocky islets of similar appearance. There is also another, but of smaller size, off the south-east point of Malus Island. In the centre of Lewis Island there is a valley, that stretches across to the opposite sides of the island, forming a bay on either side.
To the south of Lewis Island is a group of islands, which, from the circumstance of our communicating with the natives, was called INTERCOURSE ISLANDS. They are all small. The largest has a remarkable summit upon it, in latitude 20 degrees 37 minutes 50 seconds, and longitude 116 degrees 36 minutes 45 seconds: it is from this Island that the natives drove us, and would not allow us to land.* The channel between them and Lewis Island is more than a mile wide, and is seven and eight fathoms deep.
(*Footnote. Vide volume 1.)
ENDERBY ISLAND is separated from Lewis Island by a channel one mile and a half wide, apparently clear and free from danger. Its south-west point is ROCKY HEAD, the summit of which was found to be in latitude 20 degrees 35 minutes 25 seconds, and longitude 116 degrees 23 minutes 5 seconds. To the north is GOODWYN ISLAND; and further north, and West-North-West from Malus Island, from which it is separated by a strait two miles and a half wide, is ROSEMARY ISLAND, which, when viewed from the North-North-East or South-South-West, has three hummocks bearing from each other West by North and East by South. The centre hummock is in latitude 20 degrees 27 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 116 degrees 31 minutes. In the vicinity of Rosemary and Goodwyn Islands are several small rocky islands, particularly on the north-east side of the former; and at the distance of three miles, to the north of the centre of Malus Island, is a patch of flat rocks, which are those seen and noticed by Dampier (Dampier volume 3 page 81 table 4 Number 10) but from his vague account, it is not at all certain what island he saw; and, was it not for the peculiarity and remarkable appearance of Courtenay Head, it might have been any of the others. There is good anchorage in all parts about the Archipelago, particularly within Lewis Island, where the Intercourse Islands will shelter a ship from whatever point the wind may blow.
There is no wood of any size to be procured among the islands, which is a great drawback upon its utility as a port. In the rainy season water is doubtless abundant, but must be soon evaporated. We saw no rivulet or any fresh water, excepting a few gallons that were protected from the heat of the sun by being under the shade of a fig, but from the number of natives seen by us, it is probable that there must be a large quantity not far off. The natives of this part use logs to convey them from and to the islands. A small sandy island, with a reef extending for two miles from its north-west end, and one mile and a half from its south-east end, lies off the south-west end of Enderby Island, and would serve as a good protection from the sea in a South-West wind, for the anchorage on the south side of Enderby Island.
The mainland is high and rocky behind the islands, but at the bottom of the bay again assumes a low character: more to the westward, a range of hills rises abruptly and advances for fourteen miles in a North-West direction from the interior, and reaches the shores of the bay, when it extends for eleven miles to the westward, and is then terminated by a valley, or an opening of one mile and a half wide, that separates it from the rocky hills of CAPE PRESTON. The cape juts out into the sea, and is connected by reefs to some low sandy islands to the North-East; it is in latitude 20 degrees 49 minutes 45 seconds, and longitude 116 degrees 5 minutes. In the centre of the bay, at eight miles North 64 degrees East from the extremity of the cape, is a low, sandy islet, of about one-third of a mile in diameter; and behind it, near the shores of the bay, there appeared to be other islands of the same size and character, the particular form and situation of which could not be distinguished.
There is a small rocky islet off Cape Preston, and some to the South-South-West, in which direction the shore trends in and forms a bay, the shores of which were not seen.
From Cape Preston the coast assumes a very different character from that to the eastward, being less sinuous, very low, and either fronted by mangroves, or by a range of sandhills, both of which conceal the interior. The coast, at from three to seven miles, is fronted by a range of low, sandy islets, from one quarter to two-thirds of a mile in diameter: there are, however, two or three near Cape Preston of larger size, particularly one bearing South 66 degrees West, fifteen miles from the extremity of the cape, of rocky character, but very level, and apparently sterile; it is nearly circular, and about two miles in diameter. It is visible for about five leagues.
Thirty miles South-West by South from Cape Preston is a mangrove bight, with several openings communicating with a large lagoon, or body of water, at the base of a small range of hills. The bight is shoal and thickly studded with sandy islets. Hence the coast extends to the South-West by West, fronted by mangroves for about forty miles, and then for about sixteen miles South-West to the entrance of Curlew River.
Between Curlew River and Cape Preston, a space of eighty-five miles, there are not less than thirty sandy islets in sight from the coast, separated from each other by channels, generally navigable, between one to five miles wide. Good anchorage may be found among these islands, for the sea cannot fail of being smooth in the strongest winds. The depth among these islands is from four to six fathoms, and the bottom generally of gravel or sand.
CURLEW RIVER is defended by a shoal entrance, and is merely a creek running through a low country for three miles; its banks are overrun with mangroves, and it affords no inducement whatever for vessels to visit it. The country behind is low, and, at spring tides, or during the rainy season, is inundated.
The coast continues low and sandy to CAPE LOCKER, a distance of thirteen miles, and with the same barren character for twenty miles further, forming the east side of Exmouth Gulf. ROSILY, and THEVENARD ISLES are low and sandy; they were seen by us at a considerable distance.
BARROW'S ISLAND, of about forty miles in circumference, is of moderate height and level aspect, but of very sterile and barren appearance. A considerable reef extends towards the main from its south-east side, where there is also a small islet: on the north-east side are three islets; the two outermost of which are low and rocky. The west coast of Barrow's Island was seen by the French, who thought it was part of the main; they named its north-west end, CAPE DUPUY, and its south end, CAPE POIVRE. At ten miles South 25 degrees West from the last cape, the French charts have assigned a position to a reef: and four miles North 10 degrees East from Cape Dupuy is another. Neither were noticed by us, since we did not approach this part sufficiently near to see them if they do exist; of which, from the account of the French, there can be but little doubt.
LOWENDAL ISLAND and TRIMOUILLE ISLAND were seen by us, but not any vestige of HERMITE ISLAND, which the French have placed in their chart. From M. de Freycinet's account, the two latter islands were seen at different times; and since Trimouille Island has a reef extending for five miles from its north-western extremity, as Hermite Island is described to have, there seems to be good reason to suppose that there is but one; had there been two, we should have seen it on passing this part in 1822.*
(*Footnote. Vide volume 1.)
From the reasons mentioned in the narrative, there remains no doubt in my mind that Barrow's Island, and Lowendal and Trimouille Islands (which the French called the Montebello Islands) are the long lost TRYAL ROCKS. The latitude and description answer very exactly; the longitude alone raises the doubt, but the reckonings of former navigators cannot be depended upon, and errors of ten or twelve degrees of longitude were not rare, of which many proofs might be found, by comparing the situations of places formerly determined with their position on the charts of the present time. Many old navigators were not very particular; and never gave the error of their account upon arriving at their destined port, either from shame or from carelessness and indifference.
A reef of rocks is said to exist in latitude 20 degrees 17 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 114 degrees 46 minutes 6 seconds. They were seen by Lieutenant Ritchie, R.N., in the command of a merchant brig, as appears by an account published in the Sydney Gazette.
EXMOUTH GULF terminates the North-west Coast of Australia; it is thirty-four miles wide at its entrance (between the North-west Cape and Cape Locker) and forty-five miles deep. Its eastern side is formed by a very low coast, the particulars of which were not distinguished, for it is lined by an intricate cluster of islands that we could not, having but one anchor, penetrate among. In the entrance is Muiron Island, and two others, h and i; and within the gulf they are too numerous to distinguish: all the outer ones have been assigned correct positions to, as have all between Exmouth Gulf and Dampier's Archipelago. The islets y and z are the outer ones of the group; between which and the western shore there is a space of fourteen miles in extent, quite free from danger, with regular soundings between nine and twelve fathoms on a sandy bottom. Under the western shore, which is the deepest, there are some bays which will afford anchorage; but the bottom is generally very rocky. In the neighbourhood of the Bay of Rest, the shore is more sinuous, and in the bay there is good anchorage in three and four fathoms, mud. Here the gulf is twelve miles across, and from three to six fathoms deep; but the eastern side is shoal and very low. The gulf then shoalens and narrows very much; and at fifteen miles farther terminates in an inlet, or, as has been subsequently conjectured, a strait communicating with the sea at the south end of the high land that forms the western side of the gulf, and which is doubtless the identical Cloates Island that has puzzled navigators for the last eighty years. It perfectly answers the descriptions that have been given; and the only thing against it is the longitude; but this, like that of the Tryal Rocks, is not to be attended to.
(*Footnote. Vide below.)
The south-west point of this land has been named Point Cloates until its insularity shall be determined, when, for the sake of Geography, the name of CLOATES ISLAND should be restored. At the bottom of the south-eastern side of Exmouth Gulf the land is so low and the islands so numerous, that it was in vain that we attempted to examine its shores, which was also rendered still more difficult and dangerous to persevere in doing, from our losses of anchors, and the strong winds which blew every night from the South-West.
The NORTH-WEST CAPE is a low, sandy point, projecting for full two miles to the East-North-East from the fall of the land, which was called VLAMING HEAD. There is a reef of small extent off the cape, but separated from it by a channel half a mile wide, and six fathoms deep; a sandy spit extends also from the cape for about a quarter of a mile.
The extremity of the North-West Cape is in latitude 21 degrees 47 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 114 degrees 3 minutes 40 seconds; and Vlaming Head in latitude 21 degrees 48 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 114 degrees 1 minute 40 seconds.
APPENDIX A. SECTION 5.
OF THE WINDS AND WEATHER, AND DESCRIPTION OF THE WESTERN COAST BETWEEN THE NORTH-WEST CAPE AND CAPE LEEUWIN.
NORTH-WEST COAST.
We did not obtain much experience of the winds upon this coast, having only been upon it during the months of January and February, when they prevailed between South-South-East and South-South-West, veering sometimes, though rarely, to South-West. In the winter season (June, July, and August) hard gales of wind have been experienced from the North-West, even as high as Shark's Bay; and at this season the coast ought not to be approached. The South-east Trade is suspended in the neighbourhood of the coast in the summer season, and the winds are almost constant from South-South-West.
Between the North-west Cape and POINT CLOATES, which is in 22 degrees 33 minutes 5 seconds South, a space of about fifty-two miles, the shore is defended by a reef of rocks, extending from three to five miles from it. The land is high and level, and of most sterile appearance: nearer the north end there is a low, sandy plain at the foot of the hills; but to the southward the coast appeared to be steep and precipitous. This is evidently the land that has been taken for Cloates Island; and, in fact, it is not at all unlikely to be an island, for, to the southward of the latter point, the shore trends in, and was so indistinctly seen, that it probably communicates with the bottom of Exmouth Gulf.* At latitude 23 degrees 10 minutes the coast slightly projects, and is fronted by a reef, on which the sea was breaking heavily.
(*Footnote. Vide volume 1.)
CAPE FARQUHAR, in latitude 23 degrees 35 minutes, and longitude 113 degrees 35 minutes 35 seconds, is a low, sandy point. To the northward of it the coast trends in and forms a bay, but not deep enough to offer shelter from the prevailing winds.
Between Cape Farquhar and Cape Cuvier the coast is low and sandy; the land has a level outline, and the shore is formed by a sandy beach, which did not appear to be fronted by rocks. The land of CAPE CUVIER is high, level, and rocky, and, rising abruptly from the sea, forms a bluff point, in latitude 24 degrees 0 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 113 degrees 21 minutes 48 seconds. This promontory is the northern head of Shark's Bay. The land was not seen by us to the South-East, and is laid down, as is indeed the whole of Shark's Bay, from M. De Freycinet's chart, which was drawn from the survey made of it in Commodore Baudin's voyage.
The western coast of BERNIER and DORRE ISLANDS are bold to, and are composed of a high, precipitous cliff, with a level summit. The only irregularity upon them is a slight elevation on the south end of the latter. Off the north end of Bernier Island is the small islet called KOK'S. The channel between Bernier and Dorre is about a mile and a half wide, but is so blocked up by rocks as to be impassable.
DIRK HARTOG'S ISLAND extends from Cape Inscription, in latitude 25 degrees 28 minutes 20 seconds, to 26 degrees 6 minutes; it is here separated from Point Escarpee (Bluff Point) by a strait, which has a shoal communication with Shark's Bay. Dirk Hartog's Island is high, and of similar appearance to Bernier and Dorre; it is fronted by a line of breakers. DIRK HARTOG'S ROAD, at the north end of the island, is a commodious roadstead, sheltered from all winds to the southward of east and west; and, since they are the prevailing and almost constant winds of this part, may be considered a very secure anchorage. There is a reef extending off Cape Inscription for half a mile, which will also afford protection from the sea, even should the wind blow hard from the west. The beach of the bay is fronted by coral rocks, but affords easy landing in all parts, particularly at high water. This beach is covered with turtles' nests; and at daylight thirty to fifty might be turned and embarked without any difficulty or delay. The animals are easily taken, since the rocks prevent their escaping into the sea; and it is only at high water that they can return. M. De Freycinet says (page 189) that there is a passage between the reef, off the east point of the bay, and the shore with ten fathoms.
The following account of Shark's Bay is taken from M. De Freycinet's account (page 189 et seq.)
In the fairway of the entrance to Shark's Bay, between Dorre and Dirk Hartog's Islands, is DAMPIER'S REEF; it is two miles in extent from east to west, and about one mile wide. It has but two and a half and three fathoms water over it, and should be approached with care, on account of the swell. Proceeding southerly from Cape Levillain, which is the east head of Dirk Hartog's Road, at the distance of five or six miles is a cove (barachois) formed by reefs, where boats might obtain shelter. Hence to Quoin Point (Coin-de-Mire) the coast has no sinuosities. TETRODON BAY is seven miles wide and very shallow; it has two or three sandy islets in it, and can only be entered by small boats. Near Refuge Point is a safe and convenient creek. To the southward of this there are several shoal bays. To the eastward of Cape Ransonnet, which is peaked and of a moderate elevation, there are several little creeks well adapted for boats and, to the westward, a sandy plain extends to the south extremity of the island. That part of Shark's Bay, between Dirk Hartog's Island and Peron's Peninsula, is formed by Le Passage Epineux, Useless Harbour (Havre Inutile) and Henry Freycinet's Harbour: to the southward of the line of bearing between Quoin Point and Cape Lesueur, the sea is shoal and studded with banks, but to the north it is quite open.
The Passage Epineux, which separates Dirk Hartog's Island from the main, is about two miles wide; but the reefs and rocks, which protrude from either shore, reduce the passage to half that width. The depth upon the rocky bar which stretches across the entrance is six fathoms, but immediately without it the depth is twenty-two fathoms. M. De Freycinet says, that a ship upon a lee shore in the vicinity of Point Escarpee may enter this opening with confidence; she will find a good shelter and excellent anchorage in five and six fathoms fine sand. To enter it, pass in mid-channel, if anything, borrowing upon Point Escarpee, and steer for the Mondrain de Direction, and pass over the bar without fearing the breakers upon it, which are caused by the sudden decrease of depth, from twenty-two to six fathoms; after this the depth will continue without altering more than one fathom. The best anchorage is to the South-West of Cape Ransonnet, for within it the passage is blocked up by shoals, over which a boat cannot without difficulty pass.
USELESS HARBOUR is so shoal as to be, according to its name, quite unserviceable; since boats can with difficulty penetrate to the bottom, although its length is twenty-one miles: HENRY FREYCINET HARBOUR is twenty-two leagues long in a South-East direction; and from three to six leagues wide. Its entrance is blocked up by a bar; and, although the depth within is in some parts considerable, it is very doubtful whether ships can enter it. The shores are difficult to land upon, from the shoals extending so far off.
On the western side of this harbour there are several inlets and deep bays, but too shoal to be of any service. The eastern shore of the harbour is formed by PERON'S PENINSULA, which separates it from HAMELIN'S HARBOUR. It is sixteen leagues long and five leagues wide. DAMPIER'S BAY, at the north-west end, contains several sandy bays, where boats may almost always land. It is here that the French had their observatory.
From the northern point of the peninsula, Pointe des Hauts-Fonds, the reefs extend for three leagues to the North and North-North-West. They were then supposed to extend to the North-East.
The French only examined the western shores of Hamelin Harbour. The opposite coast was seen only at a distance, and the shoalness of the water prevented their boats from approaching it. M. De Freycinet says: "Ces terres, basses et steriles, ne contiennent aucune coupure; l'uniformite y est par-tout complete," page 194.
Although Hamelin Harbour is not so deep as that of Henry Freycinet, on the opposite side of Peron's Peninsula, it is nevertheless of larger size. The centre is much occupied by banks, which entirely surround FAURE ISLAND; the diameter of which is about two leagues.
Although many sandy beaches were seen at a distance upon the eastern shore of Shark's Bay, yet the boats of the French ships could not reach the shore on account of the reefs which front it. Here and there they distinguished red cliffs, and some signs of a scanty and burnt up vegetation.
Of the anchorages in Shark's Bay, the most convenient appears to be that in Dampier's Bay, at the north-west end of Peron's Peninsula, as well on account of the excellency of the holding-ground, as the facility of procuring fuel. The Naturaliste remained a long time at this anchorage, and never experienced any ill effect from the winds. The distance from the shore was six miles, and the depth six fathoms, fine sandy bottom. The sea was so clear, that the anchor was easily distinguished. The Naturaliste found only occasion to moor with a kedge, merely to keep the cable clear of the anchor. As the strongest winds were the South and East, the bower anchor was laid in the latter direction.
The above seems to be all that is worth taking from M. De Freycinet's account as regards the navigation of Shark's Bay. The coasts of the harbours of Henry Freycinet and Hamelin are much more detailed by him, and there is also much valuable information upon various heads, particularly as to meteorological observations, and the productions of the land and sea, and a curious example of the effect of a mirage; but as these subjects are irrelevant to the matter of this paper, they have been disregarded.
From POINT ESCARPEE to GANTHEAUME BAY, the coast is formed by a precipitous range of rocky cliffs, rising abruptly from the sea, to the height perhaps of three or four hundred feet. The coast is fringed with an uninterrupted line of breakers. The summit of the land is so level, and the coast so uniform, that no summits or points could be set with any chance of recognizing them. The depth at ten miles off the shore, was between fifty and seventy fathoms, decreasing to thirty-four in the neighbourhood of Gantheaume Bay.
GANTHEAUME BAY probably affords shelter on its south side from South-West winds: there was some appearance of an opening in it, but Vlaming, who sent a boat on shore here, has not mentioned it; and if there is one, it is of very small size, and unimportant. The shores of the bay are low and of sterile appearance.
RED POINT, a steep cliffy projection, is the north extremity of a range of reddish-coloured cliffs, of about two hundred feet high, that extends to the southward for eight miles, when a sandy shore commences and continues with little variation, except occasional rocky projections and sometimes rocky bays, as far as Cape Burney. The coast is moderately high, and, in the interior, some hills of an unusual height for this part of the coast are seen. MOUNT NATURALISTE is in latitude 28 degrees 18 minutes, and between the latitudes 28 degrees 25 minutes and 28 degrees 55 minutes, is MORESBY'S FLAT-TOPPED RANGE. It is terminated at the north end by three hills, called MENAI HILLS; and at the southern end, by the WIZARD HILLS. MOUNT FAIRFAX is in latitude 28 degrees 45 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 114 degrees 38 minutes 45 seconds. The coast in front of this range is of pleasing and verdant appearance; two or three small openings in the sandy beach, with an evident separation in the hills behind, particularly one in latitude 28 degrees 36 minutes, bore indications of rivulets; and the smokes of natives' fires, and the more wooded character of the coast, showed that the country was evidently more fertile and productive than any other part between Cape Leeuwin and the North-west Cape. The bottom at from ten to twelve miles off, is from twenty to twenty-five fathoms deep, and composed of a fine sand, of a dark gray colour.
CAPE BURNEY is in latitude 28 degrees 56 minutes: four miles to the southward is a reef, apparently detached from the shore.
HOUTMAN'S ABROLHOS. The old Dutch charts give a very considerable extent to this reef; Van Keulen makes it cover a space of sea, forty-seven miles long, and twenty-five broad. We only saw the islands at the south end, with three detached reefs between them and the shore; one of which (the southernmost) may probably be the TURTLE DOVE. The islands lie West 4 degrees North true, forty-one miles from Cape Burney, but the channel (GEELVINK CHANNEL) between the shore and the reefs, is not more than twenty-six miles wide. The south-easternmost reef that we saw is about three miles long, and lies nearly ten miles South 55 degrees East from the islands; it appeared to be covered, but the sea was breaking high over it. In passing this part of the coast, Captain Hamelin, who commanded the Naturaliste under Commodore Baudin's orders, must have steered within the reefs, as the Geelvink (Vlaming's ship) did. The reef that is laid down upon the chart, in latitude 29 degrees 10 minutes is from Van Keulen. We did not see it. (See Horsburgh volume 1 page 98.)
From Cape Burney the coast is rather low and sandy; in 29 degrees 16 minutes is a reef; and seven miles more to the south is another; they lie from five to seven miles from the shore.
In latitude 29 degrees 6 minutes 30 seconds, there is a small peaked hillock; and in 29 degrees 17 minutes 50 seconds, a small sandy patch upon the land.
Between latitudes 29 degrees 25 minutes and 29 degrees 55 minutes, we did not see the coast, having passed it in the night. It is laid down from Van Keulen's chart. Hence to Island Point, which is low and rocky, the shore is lined with reefs, extending off shore for two to four miles. At the back of this, and at about eight miles from the coast, is a rocky range, of three leagues in length, on which are MOUNTS PERON and LESUEUR.
To the south of ISLAND POINT, are two bays fronted by reefs; the southernmost, JURIEN BAY, has three or more small islets in it. The coast to the south of the bay is sandy. In latitude 30 degrees 37 minutes, are three small rocky lumps, very remarkably placed; the middle one is in latitude 30 degrees 37 minutes 40 seconds: fourteen miles to the south of these are two others, the north-easternmost is in latitude 30 degrees 51 minutes 50 seconds, they are very conspicuously placed upon a ridge of bare white sand. Hence the coast winds to the South-South-East for eighty miles as far as the entrance of Swan River. The coast is low and slightly wooded, and lined with reefs, that in some places extend for two miles from the shore. Off CAPE LESCHENAULT (in latitude 31 degrees 21 minutes) is a reef, lying six miles and a half from the shore; it appeared to be connected with the rocks that line the coast.
The following account of SWAN RIVER is taken from Captain De Freycinet's account of Baudin's voyage (page 175 et seq).
"The mouth of Swan River is in latitude 32 degrees 4 minutes 31 seconds, and longitude 113 degrees 26 minutes 28 seconds East of Paris, or (115 degrees 46 minutes 43 seconds East of Greenwich). The channel is obstructed by a bar of rocks, which it is very difficult to pass over, and, indeed, impracticable if the wind blows from the sea. On entering, the passage is on the starboard side: it is narrow and shoal, and divided into two channels; in each of which there is from five to six feet of water; after passing this, there is seven and eight feet: the course must then be towards the west, to avoid two shoals, which are upon the right bank: after half a mile the navigation is free, and in mid-channel the depth is not less than seven, eight, and nine feet. The river then trends in a northerly direction for seven miles, without any sinuosity of consequence. On the eastern bank, are two shoals; the passage is then on the opposite side of the river, the depth of which is eight feet: beyond these banks the course of the river trends to the eastward towards a low point, upon which there is a solitary tree; an extensive bank fronts this point, and the channel continues on the western shore, ten feet deep. Here the river is a mile broad; it then increases its width, and forms spacious bays on either side, that were not examined. To the South-East is an opening, which may probably be an arm of the river; it was called MOREAU INLET; it was not examined. Opposite to it is a sharp point, fronted by a shoal, and the channel is on the eastern side of the river, with thirteen feet water. Here the river widens and forms a basin, two miles and a half wide: a little above this the river is blocked up by shoals and islets (HEIRISSON ISLES) between which the depth is not more than two or three feet, but afterwards deepens gradually from five to fifteen feet: the banks of the river are then not more than one-third of a mile wide, and then continue in a serpentine course, with a channel from seven to ten feet deep, and free from shoals, as far as the French boats examined it. The stream of the river ran very slowly, and winds through a valley, one side of which is abrupt and precipitous, and when it ceases to be so on one side, the heights immediately appear on the other."
In front of this river is a group of islands, of which two only are of large size, namely, ROTTNEST and BUACHE. We anchored on the north side of the former, but broke the fluke, from the rocky nature of the bottom. On the North-East side of the island, the anchorage is better, since it is more sheltered. Rottnest Island is five miles long: it was discovered by Vlaming in 1696. Its shores are very rocky and difficult to land upon, particularly those of its northern side, which is fronted by rocks. Off its north point there are some rocky islets, and on the north-east side a convenient landing place in a sandy bay, where boats may put ashore with great facility. The island is covered with a pine-like tree, which is very good for fire-wood, but no fresh water was found in any part; the French were equally unsuccessful in their search. The north-east point of Rottnest Island is in 31 degrees 59 minutes 30 seconds South, and 115 degrees 31 minutes 12 seconds East; and the variation 4 degrees 50 minutes West. BUACHE ISLAND, according to Captain De Freycinet's account (page 170) is equally difficult to land upon; it is well wooded, but destitute of fresh water.
To the south of CAPE PERON is a long range of sandy coast, for seventy miles, to GEOGRAPHE BAY, which is open and exposed to the northward and north-west; its western head is formed by Cape Naturaliste, a rocky point, in latitude 33 degrees 27 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 114 degrees 57 minutes 53 seconds, beyond which the coast extends to the southward, without any bays to Cape Leeuwin. Off the cape is Naturaliste Reef, in latitude 33 degrees 12 minutes, and longitude 114 degrees 59 minutes 8 seconds; it was seen by the French expedition. The land is here of a moderate height, but of level aspect. There is a remarkable patch of bare sand, in latitude 34 degrees 12 minutes, and longitude 114 degrees 57 minutes. It is the Tache blanche remarquable of De Freycinet's chart. It lies about seven miles from the south extreme of the island.
APPENDIX A. SECTION 6.
OF THE WINDS AND WEATHER UPON THE SOUTH COAST. DIRECTIONS FOR KING GEORGE THE THIRD'S SOUND, AND HYDROGRAPHICAL REMARKS RELATING TO BASS STRAIT.
SOUTH COAST.
Between the meridians of Cape Leeuwin and Bass Strait, the weather is generally very unsettled and tempestuous; and, at certain seasons, very much against a ship making the western passage from Port Jackson, which is by passing through Bass Strait, and along the south coast; but it so happens that at the time when ships cannot proceed through Torres Strait, by reason of the Westerly Monsoon, namely, from the month of December to that of March, easterly winds prevail upon the south coast, and are more regular and strong in that space between the land and the parallel of Bass Strait.* I have been told that the south-westerly gales that sometimes occur during that season, seldom, if ever, blow home upon the coast; and that when they do reach the land, they partake more of the character of the sea breeze; be that as it may, a ship steering to the westward should keep to the north of 40 degrees, in order to benefit by the regularity of the wind, which to the south of that parallel generally blows from some western quarter. From April to October the westerly gales are very constant, and veer between South by West and North by East; but, in the months of June and July, seldom veer to the southward of South-West or northward of North-West; they are then accompanied by a deep and heavy sea. The wind, in the summer season, generally revolves with the sun, and, as the atmosphere becomes more dense, veers to the South-East, with fine weather.
(*Footnote. Horsburgh volume 2 page 506.)
The marine barometer is here of considerable importance, as its rise always precedes a south-east wind, and its fall a change from the North-West; it seldom, however, stands lower than twenty-nine and a half inches. The currents generally set to the north, and seldom run with any velocity either to the east or west. A ship steering along this coast to the eastward, bound to Port Jackson through Torres Strait, should steer upon the parallel of 41 degrees, to avoid being thrown into the bight to the west of Cape Northumberland, where with a South-East wind, that would otherwise be fair for carrying her through Bass Strait, she would be detained probably a week.
Upon making Van Diemen's Land, she is ready for either a northerly or a southerly wind; since, with the former, she can round Van Diemen's Land, without suffering much detention, or materially lengthening her voyage.
KING GEORGE THE THIRD'S SOUND was discovered by Captain Vancouver in the year 1791, on his celebrated voyage to the North-west Coast of America. It offers an excellent resort for vessels, and is convenient for all the purposes of refitting, wooding, and watering. The natives are friendly; the banks of Oyster Harbour afford a large abundance of oysters and other shell-fish, and the harbours and rivers are well-stocked with fish and birds.
There are many convenient anchorages in the sound; the best place for a large ship, when it is necessary to refit the rigging at the same time that she is completing her wood and water, is PRINCESS ROYAL HARBOUR; but for a small vessel, not drawing more than eleven feet, OYSTER HARBOUR is preferable, because she is secured to within one hundred yards of the shore, and therefore better situated for the protection of her people at their occupations from the natives, who are numerous, and will daily visit them. But, for a ship only wanting fuel and water, there is a sandy bay in the south-west corner of the sound, in which two or three streams of excellent water run into the sea over the sand, from which a ship might complete her hold in a day or two, by digging a well to collect it. Wood may also be procured at this place, but not of so large a size, or perhaps of so good a quality as at other parts. This bay is readily found, by its being the first to the westward of a rocky point, that projects from some remarkable bare sand hillocks, as also from its being the second sandy beach to the westward of the low flat rocky islet at the back of Seal Island.
The anchorage is good, being a bottom of sand and weeds, and is sufficiently protected from easterly winds by BREAKSEA and MICHAELMAS ISLANDS. The anchorage between SEAL ISLAND and the first sandy beach to the westward of BALD HEAD, with the low flat rocky islet bearing west, in six or seven fathoms sand and weeds, should be preferred during the summer months; for the easterly winds then prevail, and sometimes blow strong, even as late as March; the anchorage is landlocked, excepting in the direction of East by North, the only quarter to which it is exposed, and even in that direction the angle subtending the sea horizon is not greater than ten degrees of the circle, which is of insignificant consequence.
There is no water nearer to this anchorage than in the sandy bay above mentioned, but the distance is trifling for a ship that can send boats with men enough to protect themselves while employed in filling the casks, for notwithstanding the friendly communication we have had with the inhabitants of this sound, they are not to be trusted, unless their character is different from the rest of their countrymen that we have seen.
Water is procured at Princess Royal and Oyster Harbours by digging holes at the edge of the sand under the hills; but, at the latter place, the stream that we used outside the bar affords plenty, of excellent quality, without the trouble of digging.
Over the bar of Oyster Harbour there is not more than ten and a half feet at low water, and in the neaps twelve feet at high water; but it is likely that, at spring-tides, there may be fourteen feet, or perhaps more if the wind is blowing into the harbour; but during the springs high water always takes place at night, and it would not, therefore, be prudent to attempt to pass the bar at that time.
A vessel intending to go to Oyster Harbour should anchor off the sandy beach immediately to the eastward of the entrance, that is, between the breakers off the point and the bar, in three fathoms sand, bringing the summit of Green Island, in the harbour, on with the extremity of the bushes of the west point of entrance, and the highest part of Breaksea Island in a line with the outer point of the bay: a boat should then be sent to sound the bar. The mark for the deepest part is when the western summit of some flat-topped land, at the back of Oyster Harbour, is a little open of the rocks off the east side of the entrance.
After the bar is passed, the channel is deepest when the centre of the flat land is kept midway between the points of entrance, avoiding a spit of rocks that projects from the rocky point at the west end of the watering beach. The strongest winds are from the westward, and therefore bower anchors should be placed to the south-west and north-west: warps and the stream cable will be sufficient to secure her from easterly winds, as the hills rise immediately over the vessel on that shore. If the run of water outside the bar should fail, holes may be dug at the edge of the grass, about three feet deep, which will yield a sufficient quantity in two or three days for any vessel that can pass over it.
The flood-tide in the entrance generally ran sixteen hours, and ebbed eight hours. High water at full and change took place at 10 hours 10 minutes at night; but on the bar the rise and fall was very irregular, and a vessel going in should pay great attention to the depth, if her draught is more than ten feet, for it sometimes rises suddenly two feet. The spring-tides take place about the third or fourth day after new or full moon. The variation here is about 7 degrees East. The situation of Seal Island, from Captain Flinders' observations, is in latitude 35 degrees 4 minutes 55 seconds, and longitude 117 degrees 58 minutes 7 seconds.
A small island was reported in the Sydney Gazette to have been seen in latitude 36 degrees 27 minutes, and longitude 127 degrees 2 minutes East; but as the account says, that Kangaroo Island was seen the same day, which is not less than one hundred and fifty leagues from the above position, it appears too vague to be correct. (See Horsburgh Supp. page 32.)
BLACK PYRAMID, off the north-west end of Van Diemen's Land, in Bass Strait, is situated about 4 minutes too much to the southward on Captain Flinders' chart.
BELL'S ROCK. The following account of a rock, seen by Mr. Bell, the Commander of the ship Minerva, on her outward-bound passage to New South Wales, appeared in a Sydney (New South Wales) Gazette, of the 16th of December, 1824.
"On the 14th of November the Minerva very narrowly escaped striking on a rock, in the fairway of the west entrance to Bass Strait, on the south side of King's Island. Reid's rocks bearing North six miles, and the Black Pyramid East-South-East: from this situation the danger was about half a mile off (to the southward); but as the water broke only at intervals of three or four minutes, although the swell was very heavy, it is probable there may be sufficient depth of water to carry a ship over it. An indifferent observation made the latitude of the ship at the time 40 degrees 26 minutes."
In M. De Freycinet's chart of Bass Strait, some rocky islets are placed forty miles east of Sea-Elephant Bay. I did not succeed in finding them, although the Mermaid sailed close to their position. (See volume 1.)
The PYRAMID, at the east end of Bass Strait, is placed five miles too much to the northward: its true situation is in latitude 39 degrees 52 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 147 degrees 11 minutes 30 seconds.
A reef of rocks were seen by Lieutenant John Lamb, R.N., off Cape Albany Otway. (See Horsburgh volume 2 page 499.)
There appears to be a considerable difference in the positions assigned to ALBATROSS ISLAND, by the French expedition and Captain Flinders; the former made the difference between the meridian of Albatross Island, and that of the rock in Sea-Elephant Bay, 24 minutes 45 seconds; whilst by the latter it is 32 minutes 30 seconds. But as Captain Flinders only saw the north end of KING'S ISLAND, the error seems to originate in his having laid down its eastern side from other authorities, for his difference of longitude between its north-west point and the centre of Albatross Island only differs 2 minutes 30 seconds from the French, who surveyed that island with great care.
Several sunken rocks have been discovered from time to time near the north end of GREAT ISLAND, so that ships, bound through Bass Strait to the eastward, should not pass within Craggy Island without using great caution. The best passage is on the south side of Kent's Group, between it and the rocky islet (WRIGHT'S ROCK) to the south-east.
In a line between the above rocky islet and Craggy Island, and about two miles from the former, is a reef with two small rocks upon it. (See Horsburgh Supp. page 32.)
There are some considerable errors in Captain Flinders' chart of Van Diemen's Land, with respect to the latitudes of the South-west Cape, the Mewstone, the South cape, and the land between them. The first is laid down 8 minutes too much to the North 30 degrees West (true) and the other places in proportion. The corrected situations are given in the second volume of this work.
APPENDIX A. SECTION 7.
DESCRIPTION OF THE SHOALS AND REEFS IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF THE COASTS OF AUSTRALIA.
REEFS, EAST COAST.
ELIZABETH'S REEF (see Horsburgh's Supp. page 52) in latitude 30 degrees 5 minutes, and longitude 159 degrees, was discovered by the ships Claudine and Marquis of Hastings, on the 16th of May, 1820. Within two cables' length of the reef, they found fourteen fathoms; at a quarter of a mile off the depth was twenty-five fathoms, but beyond that the bottom was not reached. It is about three miles in circuit, with deep water in the centre: the edge is covered, but some straggling rocky lumps show at intervals above the surface of the water. The east side of the reef extends about North-North-East and South-South-West for one mile, but the greatest extent seemed to be West-North-West and East-South-East.
MIDDLETON'S SHOAL is in latitude 29 degrees 14 minutes, and longitude 158 degrees 53 minutes. (See Horsburgh volume 2 page 508.)
CATO'S BANK is in latitude 23 degrees 6 minutes, and longitude 155 degrees 23 minutes. (Flinders volume 2 page 298 and Horsburgh volume 2 page 509.)
WRECK REEF is in latitude 22 degrees 11 minutes 23 seconds, and longitude 155 degrees 18 minutes 50 seconds. (Flinders volume 2 page 330 and Horsburgh volume 2 page 509.)
CARNS, or MID-DAY REEF, was discovered by Mr. Carns, the master of the ship Neptune, on the 21st of June, 1818, having taken a departure the day before from Sandy Cape. It extends east and west for a considerable distance: the ship passed round the western extremity at two miles off, and found its bearing from Sandy Cape to be North 21 degrees East, one hundred and seventy-six miles, and to be in latitude 21 degrees 58 minutes, and longitude 154 degrees 20 minutes. Its eastern limit was not seen: it consists of a string of sandbanks and rocks, from five to twenty feet high, with passages between them. (Horsburgh Supp. page 35.)
SIR JAMES SAUMAREZ' SHOAL was seen by Mr. Lihou; it is in latitude 21 degrees 40 minutes, and longitude 153 degrees 46 minutes by chronometer, which was found correct on making Sandy Cape a day or two afterwards. There is reason to suppose that many other reefs exist to the North-West of this position.
KENN'S REEF, discovered by Mr. Alexander Kenn, Master of the ship William Shand, on her passage from Sydney to Batavia, extends in the direction of North West by North 1/2 North for ten miles, and is composed of sand and rocks, some of which, at the south end, were six or eight feet out of the water: it is six miles broad; the centre of the edge (? north) is in latitude 21 degrees 9 minutes, and longitude 155 degrees 49 minutes (by chronometer and lunars): it was found to bear South 67 degrees West, six miles from Bird Islet, of Wreck Reef.
BOOBY and BELLONA SHOALS. In the neighbourhood of these reefs, Lieutenant John Lamb, R.N., Commander of the ship Baring, was embarrassed for three days, in which interval he was sounding in between nineteen and forty-five fathoms, and frequently passed shoal parts, upon which the sea was breaking. The limits assigned by this officer to the extent of the rocky ground, are the parallels of 20 degrees 40 minutes, and 21 degrees 50 minutes, and the meridians of 158 degrees 15 minutes and 159 degrees 30 minutes. A sandy islet was also seen by him, surrounded by a chain of rocks in 21 degrees 24 1/2 minutes South, and 158 degrees 30 minutes East. The ship Minerva also struck soundings in eight fathoms, with the appearance of shoaler water to the South-West; this last danger is in a line between the two shoals in about longitude 159 degrees 20 minutes. (See Horsburgh Supp. page 35.)
BAMPTON'S SHOAL is laid down in the shape of a horse-shoe, of not less than forty-five miles in extent; on the north-east end are two islets with trees. The AVON ISLES are probably near its south-west extremity: they were seen by Mr. Sumner, Master of the ship Avon, September 18, 1823; and are described by him as being three-quarters of a mile in circumference, twenty feet high, and the sea between them twenty fathoms deep. At four miles North East by North from them the vessel sounded in twelve fathoms, and at the same time saw a reef ten or fifteen miles to the South-East, with deep water between it and the islets. A boat landed on the south-westernmost islet, and found it inhabited only by birds, but clothed with shrubs and wild grapes. By observation, these islands were found to lie in latitude 19 degrees 40 minutes, and longitude 158 degrees 6 minutes.
A reef is laid down in M. Krusenstern's Atlas of the Pacific Ocean (1824) in latitude 17 degrees, and longitude 156 degrees, and is there called MELLISH REEF.
A REEF was seen by the ship FREDERICK, the north-east extremity of which is laid down in latitude 20 degrees 44 minutes, and longitude 150 degrees 32 minutes; it is of semi-circular shape, and extends as far south as 21 degrees 2 minutes, and appears to be nearly twenty miles wide.
VINE'S HORSE-SHOE SHOAL; its northernmost end is in latitude 20 degrees 5 minutes, and longitude 151 degrees 50 minutes: it presents its convex, or outer edge, to the Southward, and extends as far as fifteen miles to the South and East.
DIANA'S BANK is placed in latitude 15 degrees 38 minutes, and longitude 150 degrees 28 minutes. (Horsburgh volume 2 page 509.)
BETWEEN the parallels of 16 degrees 50 minutes and 17 degrees 45 minutes, and the meridians of 150 degrees 30 minutes and 152 degrees 30 minutes, there are several very extensive reefs, various parts of which have been seen, according to the following accounts.
Lieutenant Vine saw a DRY BANK in latitude 17 degrees 46 minutes, and longitude 151 degrees 40 minutes. See the account of the shoal described by M. Tregrosse.
Mr. Brodie, Commander of the brig Alert, in October, 1817, saw A REEF extending for a considerable distance in a North-East and South-West direction. The Alert ran along the reef for twenty-five miles: about the centre Mr. Brodie saw two sand islets in latitude 17 degrees 2 minutes, and longitude 151 degrees 49 minutes.
LIHOU'S SHOAL, probably a part of the above reefs seen by Lieutenant Vine and from the Alert, lies in latitude 17 degrees 25 minutes, and longitude 151 degrees 45 minutes: it is forty-six miles in length, and lies North-North-East and South-South-West.
A very extensive RANGE OF SHOALS and ISLETS was seen by M. Tregrosse, of the French brig Les Trois Freres, in company with the brig Jessie, in 1821, according to the subjoined account.
On the 19th June, the two brigs in company fell in with a range of reefs, terminated to the eastward by two sandy islets, the easternmost of which is in 151 degrees 47 minutes (149 degrees 27 minutes East of Paris); the vessels hauled to the wind immediately, but finding they could not pass to windward, bore up, and ran along the shoal from eight a.m. to four p.m., at the distance of a league and a half. Altogether they counted seven islets, three of which were covered with shrubs, and the whole connected by a reef, on the edge of which the sea broke heavily: they were called GOVERNOR FARQUHAR'S GROUP: the westernmost islet is in 17 degrees 39 minutes, and 151 degrees 27 minutes (149 degrees 7 minutes East of Paris) and appeared to terminate the group. As it was near sunset, the vessels hauled to the wind for the night, and at daylight bore up on a north course: soon afterwards they saw an islet West-North-West; they, however, continued to steer North until eight o'clock, and then, having run nine miles, saw another island North-North-East. On attempting to steer between the isles, they were found to be connected, and having sounded in eleven fathoms, the vessels bore up, and steered between the westernmost islet and two extensive reefs, through a passage five or six miles wide, that appeared to be clear.
The westernmost islet is in 17 degrees 42 minutes South, and 150 degrees 43 minutes East (148 degrees 23 minutes East of Paris) and the westernmost reef, in 17 degrees 44 minutes South, and 150 degrees 32 minutes East (148 degrees 12 minutes East of Paris). A space of ten or twelve leagues between Governor Farquhar's Group and that seen the preceding day was passed in the night, and probably may contain other reefs. The last group was named TREGROSSE'S ISLETS.
NORTH COAST.
The ALERT struck on a shoal to the westward of Torres Strait in 1817; it seemed to be about two hundred fathoms in length, and about fifty yards broad: it is in latitude 9 degrees 52 minutes, and longitude 140 degrees 50 minutes.
In the vicinity of Cape Van Diemen there are many submarine coral banks, that are not yet shoal enough to be called reefs; that which Captain Flinders saw, and sounded upon in seven fathoms, lies in 9 degrees 56 minutes latitude, and 129 degrees 28 minutes longitude. The Alert also passed over a shoal patch with nine fathoms in 10 degrees 1 minute South, and 129 degrees 8 minutes East.
NORTH-WEST COAST.
SAHUL BANK is but very imperfectly known, and its extent by no means so large as is laid down upon the chart. In that interval, however, there are probably many reefs, which have been occasionally seen. Captain Heywood saw a dry part in latitude 11 degrees 35 minutes and longitude 124 degrees 10 minutes, and there are shoal soundings in crossing it on the following parts, namely:
COLUMN 1: SOUNDINGS OVER CORAL REEF IN FATHOMS.
COLUMN 2: LATITUDE.
COLUMN 3: LONGITUDE.
12 : 11 degrees 21 minutes : 125 degrees 23 minutes.
16 : 11 degrees 10 minutes : 125 degrees 27 minutes.
12 : 11 degrees 7 minutes : 125 degrees 30 minutes.
15 : 10 degrees 57 minutes : 125 degrees 34 minutes.
All of which are detached and separated by deep water. (See Horsburgh volume 1 page 103.)
CARTIER ISLAND, seen in 1800 by the ship Cartier, is a dry sand bank surrounded by a shoal extending for four miles to the northward. It is in 12 degrees 29 minutes South, and 123 degrees 56 minutes East, by chronometer.
Captain Heywood in 1801 saw the following reefs. The centre of one in latitude 12 degrees 48 minutes, and longitude 124 degrees 25 minutes; and the other in 13 degrees 29 minutes, and 124 degrees 5 minutes.
HIBERNIA SHOAL, seen by Mr. Samuel Ashmore, Commander of the ship Hibernia, consists of two small sandbanks in the centre of a shoal, four miles in extent, lying in an east and west direction. It is in latitude 11 degrees 56 minutes, and longitude 123 degrees 28 minutes, by chronometers.
Mr. Ashmore also saw another shoal in 1811, the particulars of which are detailed in the following letter.
"The north-east end of the shoal, fell in with on the 11th June, 1811, by a good noon observation, is in 12 degrees 11 minutes South, longitude by chronometer 122 degrees 58 minutes 30 seconds (allowing the south head of Port Jackson to be in 151 degrees 25 minutes 25 seconds). To the westward of the barrier of black rocks, that presented themselves to our view, were several sandbanks, the highest of which, on the east end, appeared to have some vegetation: the rocks in general were six or eight feet above the water and the surf broke violently on the North-East and South-East points in view. The shoal trends in a West by North direction for six or seven miles," It is distinguished on the chart by the name of ASHMORE'S SHOAL.
SCOTT'S REEF (see Horsburgh volume 1 page 102) was discovered by Captain Heywood, R.N., in 1811: the north-west end is in latitude 13 degrees 52 1/2, and longitude 121 degrees 59 minutes; thence it extends South 16 degrees East for eighteen or nineteen miles to the north-east point, in latitude 14 degrees 1 minute, and longitude 122 degrees 16 minutes; the south extent was not ascertained. It is ninety-seven miles due East from the situation assigned to Dampier's Rocks. The Cartier also struck upon a shoal hereabouts, and Captain Horsburgh seems to think that there is little doubt of Scott's Reef being the same that Dampier saw, as well as that on which the Cartier struck.
ROWLEY'S SHOALS consist of three separate reefs, the westernmost is the Imperieuse, the middle Clerke's, and the north-easternmost the Mermaid's. The Imperieuse is ten miles in length from north to south, and its greatest breadth five miles: it is surrounded by very deep water and near the eastern edge, in latitude 17 degrees 35 minutes, and longitude 118 degrees 51 minutes, are some dry rocks. Clerke's Shoal (south end in latitude 17 degrees 28 minutes, longitude 119 degrees 18 minutes) extends to the north-west, and probably joins the Minstrel's Shoal, which is described below, and, if this is the case, trends North-North-West 1/2 West for seventeen miles. The south end of Mermaid's Shoal is in 17 degrees 12 minutes South, and 119 degrees 35 minutes East, and extends to the northward for seven miles; but its termination in that direction was not seen. The edges of all these reefs are steep to; and no bottom was obtained with one hundred and eighty fathoms. Within the reefs, however, there is a bank of soundings of the depth of from one hundred and seventy to one hundred and twenty fathoms. (See Horsburgh volume 1 page 101.)
MINSTREL'S SHOAL (see Horsburgh's Supp. page 52) its north-east end is in 17 degrees 14 minutes South, and 118 degrees 57 minutes East, or 5 degrees 28 minutes East by chronometer, from the coast of New Holland in latitude 23 degrees 10 minutes South. The longitude of that part of the coast by my survey, is 113 degrees 42 minutes; this will make the Minstrel's Shoal in 119 degrees 10 minutes, which agrees very well with Clerke's Reef, the centre reef of Rowley's Shoals, of which it is certainly the north end; so Captain Horsburgh also supposes.
A ship called the LIVELY was wrecked on a coral reef in about 16 degrees 30 minutes South, and 119 degrees 35 minutes East.
RITCHIE'S REEF, or the Greyhound's Shoal. The situation of this reef is recorded by Captain Horsburgh (see Supp. page 38) to be in latitude 19 degrees 58 minutes, and longitude 114 degrees 40 1/4 minutes; but, by a letter published in the Sydney Gazette by Lieutenant Ritchie, R.N., the commander, it would appear to be in 20 degrees 17 minutes 40 seconds, longitude by lunars 114 degrees 46 minutes 6 seconds.
ROCK OFF VAN DIEMEN'S LAND.
The Russian ship RURICK, in 1822, saw a dry rock above water off the south-east coast of Van Diemen's Land, in latitude 44 degrees, and longitude 147 degrees 45 minutes.
A rock was also seen by the ship LORD SIDMOUTH in 1819, in latitude 43 degrees 48 minutes, and longitude 147 degrees 15 minutes.
APPENDIX A. SECTION 8.
DIRECTIONS FOR THE PASSAGE WITHIN THE REEFS THROUGH TORRES STRAIT.
INNER ROUTE.
The passage recommended by Captain Flinders for passing through Torres Strait us by entering the reefs at Murray's Island; by which route a two-days' passage will carry a ship past all danger: but, as the space between Wreck Reef and Murray's Island is strewed with dangers, many of which have been discovered since the publication of his charts, and of which the greater number have only been recently seen, it cannot be called a safe navigation. The dangers consist of low coral islands, surrounded by extensive reefs, upon which in long and dark nights a vessel is in momentary danger of striking; the result of which must be the certain destruction of the vessel, and the probable loss of the crew. The Inner Route was first pursued by Mr. Cripps in the brig Cyclops, bound from Port Jackson to Bengal, in 1812. It was subsequently followed by Lieutenant C. Jeffreys, R.N., in the command of the hired armed vessel Kangaroo, on her passage from Port Jackson to Ceylon, in 1815.* This officer drew a chart, with a track of his voyage up the coast; which, considering the shortness of his time, and other circumstances that prevented his obtaining the necessary data to lay down with accuracy so intricate and dangerous a passage, does him very great credit; he filled up the space between Endeavour River and Cape Direction, which Captain Cook did not see; the only part that had previously been left a blank upon the chart of New South Wales; his outline was found to be tolerably correct, and my alterations have only been caused by better opportunities, and by the greater detail of my operations. The general feature of the coast has scarcely required correction; the principal corrections have been in the number, size, and relative bearings of the coral reefs and islands that front it.
(*Footnote. Horsburgh's Indian Directory volume 2 page 514.)
In describing this route, the whole of the bearings are magnetic; and the courses are freed from the effect of tide or current, since they are only temporary, and often of trifling importance.*
(*Footnote. In following these directions, reference should be made to the description of the coast contained in this Appendix.)
DIRECTIONS.
Having hauled round Breaksea Spit (see Flinders' chart sheet 3) in the evening, it would perhaps be dangerous to steer on through the night; after running, therefore, to the West-North-West for five or six leagues, bring to until daylight: but, if the day is before you, the course from the extremity of the spit is West-North-West 1/4 West for about a hundred miles. You will then be about twenty miles from Cape Capricorn: on your way to which you should pass about three miles within Lady Elliot's Island, and also within the southernmost islet of Bunker's Group, by which you will see how the current has affected your course, and you can act accordingly: if it has set you to the northward, you may pass on either side of or through the islands without danger. After making Cape Capricorn, you may leave it at a convenient distance, and, directing your course about North West by North, pass either within or without the Peaked and Flat Islands off Port Bowen; then, steering for the Percy Group, pass between the 2nd and 3rd Northumberland Islands.
After passing the latter, avoid a low dangerous rock, that bears from it North 8 degrees East five miles and three-quarters, and from 1st Peak South 85 degrees West. To avoid this in the night, pass close round Number 3, when, its situation being known, you can easily avoid it.
The channel is safe on either side of the Percy Isles, but that to the westward of them, being better known, is therefore recommended as the safest. Then steer either over the Mermaid's or Bathurst's tracks, which will carry a ship round the projections of the coast as far as Cape Grafton, as far as which, if the weather is fine, there can be no danger of proceeding through the night; but it must be recollected, that at Cape Grafton the coral reefs approach the coast, and, consequently, great care must be used.
On reaching Fitzroy Island, round it at a mile off shore, and, when its north end bears West, steer North-West 1/2 North for thirty-five miles; you will then be a league to the South-East of a group of low isles; if it should be night when you pass them, come no nearer to them than fourteen fathoms. In steering this course, great care should be taken, not to go too much to the eastward to avoid the reef which the Tamar saw. (See above.)
If the moon is up the islets will be readily distinguished, but otherwise it would be more prudent to wait for daylight. This course will carry a ship over two of my tracks, and the soundings will be in seventeen, eighteen, and nineteen fathoms. From the low isles direct your course for the Hope Islands, which bear from the former North 18 degrees West thirty-eight miles, but the course had better be within that line, to avoid some reefs in latitude 15 degrees 51 minutes: pass, therefore, within five miles of Cape Tribulation, when a direct course may be steered either to the eastward or westward of the Hope Isles. The better route will be within the western Hope, and along its reef at the distance of three-quarters of a mile, by which you will avoid reef a. When you are abreast of its north end, steer North by West westerly for twenty-eight miles; this will carry you to Cape Bedford which you may round at from one to three or four miles. You will see in your way, at three miles and a half from the north end of the Hope Reef, reef b; and at fifteen miles from it you will be abreast of e; and five miles farther on you will pass Captain Cook's Turtle Reef, which has a dry sand at its north end. These three reefs will be to the eastward of your course.
The current sets to the North-West, so that your course must be directed accordingly. In coasting along the shore, you will discern the summits which are marked on the chart. The high conical hill, on the south side of the entrance of Endeavour River, is Mount Cook, bearings of which, crossed with the summit of Cape Bedford, or any of the particularized summits or points will give the vessel's place, by which the effects of the current, which is generally very slight, will be perceived: on one occasion we found a current in the space between the Endeavour Reef and Turtle Reef of two miles an hour to the North-West.
Being off Cape Bedford, and steering to the North 1/2 West, you will see the Three Isles ahead: steer between them and the low wooded island; and direct your course round Cape Flattery and Point Lookout, to anchor under the Turtle Group, unless you have time before dark to reach the islands 4, 5, or 6, of Howick's Group. Under which anchorage may be found. In rounding Point Lookout, do not come within two miles and a half of it, to avoid a reef that is on Captain Cook's chart, but which we did not see; it lies a mile and a half north from the peaked hill at the extremity of the point. You may pass without the Turtle Group, or you will find anchorage under Lizard Island, but this is not recommended, both because the wind is generally fresher as you increase your distance from the shore, and because it lengthens the distance.
From the Turtle Group steer North West by West 1/2 West until you see the hillock at the south-east end of Number 1 of Howick's Group: then pass inside and within a mile of 2 and 3, and between islet 4 and Cole's Islands, and inshore of 6 and the dry sands s, t, and u. The Mermaid's track will direct the course to Cape Melville. If the day is late when abreast of 6, of Howick's Group, anchorage had better be secured under it, as there is none to be recommended between it and Cape Flinders.
Upon rounding Cape Melville, the Islands of Flinders' Group will be seen; and as soon as you have passed round the stony reef that projects off the Cape (the extremity of which bears from it by compass North West by North, and from Pipon's Island South-West by West 1/4 West nearly) in doing which steer within the reef that surrounds Pipon Island, direct the course for the extremity of the islands, which is Cape Flinders; the course and distance being West 3/4 South nearly thirteen miles: on this a low woody island will be left on the starboard hand.
His Majesty's sloop Satellite, in 1822, grounded upon a small reef, bearing North by East (easterly) from the extremity of the cape, distant about two miles; but, as a ship may pass within a stone's throw of the cape, this danger may be easily avoided. The best anchorage here is under the flat-topped hill, at a third of a mile from the shore, in ten fathoms, muddy bottom. In hauling round the cape, avoid a shoal which extends for a short distance from the shore on its western side.
If the day is not far advanced, and you have time to run fifteen miles further, the ship may proceed to the reef d; but, indeed, anchorage may be obtained under any of the reefs or islets between this part and Cape Grenville, for the bottom is universally of mud; and by anchoring with the body of a reef, bearing South-East, the vessel is sufficiently sheltered from the sea, which is generally smooth.
On leaving Cape Flinders, steer West 3/4 North for about twenty-three miles, leaving the reefs c and g to seaward, and d, e, and f to the southward, of the course; then haul up about North-West 3/4 North, and steer within the reef l and Pelican Island, and to seaward of the Claremont Islands 1 and 2, which are low and woody.
When abreast of 2, the south-west end of the reef m will be seen, which should be passed at from one to two miles, and the course North by West 1/4 West will carry you to 4 and 5, which you may pass on either side of, the channel between them being quite safe. If you take the latter course, steer north, within the reef o, and then close within 6, to avoid the low rock that covers with the tide. Having passed this rock, steer for 7, and pass within one mile of it, to avoid the shoals that extend off Cape Sidmouth. Hence the course is North-North-West towards Night Island; and, when abreast of it, steer North 1/2 West until near the covered shoal v, when the course may be directed within Sherrard's Islets and reef 10 (on which there is a sandy islet covered with some bushes) and then steer round Cape Direction.
Hence the course North-North-West 1/4 West will carry you within the reefs y, z, a, b, and c, and without the rocky islet that lies off Restoration Island: continuing this course you will, at about five miles beyond the cape, see the long reef e; steer North-West parallel with its edge, which extends until you are abreast of Fair Cape, where it terminates with a very narrow point. Then steer North-West 1/2 North, and pass between the two easternmost Piper's Islands and the reefs h, i, and k; then pass on either side of l and m, inshore of Haggerston's Island, and round the outermost of Sir Everard Home's Group.
The anchorages between Cape Flinders and this are so numerous as not to require particular mention: the north-west end of every reef will afford shelter; but the anchor should not be dropped too near, because the tide sweeps round the edge with greater strength than it does at half a mile off, within which distance the bottom is generally deeper. If the day is advanced and the breeze fresh, Night Island should not be passed: because the anchorages between it and Piper's Islands are rather exposed; and a vessel getting underweigh from Night Island at daylight will easily reach Piper's Islands, or Margaret Bay, before dark.
The latter bay is round Cape Grenville; it is fronted by Sunday Island, which affords good shelter from the wind: it is a safe place to stop at.
In passing round Sir Everard Home's Islands, steer wide from them, to avoid the tide drifting you towards the group, for it sets to the North-West across the course. The course is then about North-West 1/4 West to the Bird Isles, and thence, to the reef v, about North West by North; the better and more direct plan is to pass within v and w (there is, however, a safe channel between them) and when abreast of the west end of the latter, the course to Cairncross Island is North by West 1/2 West, and the distance about eighteen miles.
There not being any very good anchorage between this and Cape York, it would be perhaps better to anchor under it for the night, in about fourteen or fifteen fathoms, mud, the island bearing South-East, but not nearer than half a mile, because, within that distance, the bottom is rocky.
Leaving Cairncross Island, steer North-North-West 1/4 West until Escape River is abreast of you, when look out for reef x: steer within it about North West by North, which will take you inside the covered reef z. Your course then must be round the Albany Islands, and hence North West by North for a, which is a rocky islet that may be seen from abreast the Albany Isles.
The passage through the Possession Isles and Endeavour Strait is not to be recommended for a large ship, on account of the shoal water that extends from Wallis' Isles towards Shoal Cape; but the route round the north end of Wednesday and Hammond's Islands is preferable. Upon passing reef a, Wednesday Island will be seen: in steering towards it, avoid standing too close to the rocky islet that is abreast of the strait between it and Horned Hill, as some sunken rocks stretch off it for about a quarter of a mile: steer round the north point of Wednesday Island at half a mile, and then West by South 1/4 South which will carry you to the northward of the rock off Hammond's Island. Having passed this rock, steer South-West by West; and when abreast of the south-west end of Hammond's Island, haul towards a reef, to the southward of the course, on which you will see some dry rocks, which you may pass within half a mile of: you will then avoid reef d, which is generally, if not always, covered: the fairway of this channel is seven and eight fathoms deep.
When the summit of Good's Island bears South-West by West, steer West by South southerly for Booby Island, by which you will avoid Larpent's bank, and when you have passed it, you are clear of the strait. Hence you may steer West 3/4 South through the night, on which course you will very gradually deepen your water.
APPENDIX A. SECTION 9.
TABLE: DIP OF THE MAGNETIC NEEDLE, OBSERVED DURING THE MERMAID'S AND BATHURST'S VOYAGES UPON THE COAST OF AUSTRALIA.
APPENDIX A. SECTION 10.
UPON THE GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS OF THE FIXED POINTS OF THE SURVEY.
The observations for determining the longitudes of the various parts of the coast were taken with a circle and a sextant by Troughton: besides these valuable instruments we had three chronometers of Arnold's make, namely, 413 (box) 2054 (pocket) and 394 (pocket); of which the two first were supplied by the Admiralty. At the end of the fourth year, in consequence of 394 having stopped, a fourth chronometer, made by Parkinson and Frodsham (Number 287 box) was purchased in the colony, and proved to be a most excellent watch.
The situations of the following places, which were either fixed by us or adapted from other authorities, served as the basis of the chronometrical determination of the longitudes of the intermediate parts.
The flagstaff of FORT MACQUARIE on the north-east head of Sydney Cove in PORT JACKSON (the Cattle Point of Flinders, and otherwise Bennelong Point) is in latitude 33 degrees 51 minutes 28 seconds South and longitude 151 degrees 15 minutes 26 East, being, according to the ensuing table, the mean of all the observations that have been taken.
PERCY ISLAND (Number 2). The longitude of the south-west end of this island is by Captain Flinders' observation in 150 degrees 13 minutes East. ENDEAVOUR RIVER. The observatory, which was placed within a few yards of the shore on the south side of the entrance (the summit of the highest bush near the extremity of the opposite sandy beach, bearing by compass West 3 degrees 40 minutes South) was found to be situated in latitude 15 degrees 27 minutes 4 seconds, and longitude 145 degrees 10 minutes 49 seconds. (See note, Appendix A.)
GOULBURN ISLANDS. The observations were taken upon Bottle Rock, the largest of two rocky islets at the north end of South-west Bay; but the results were so doubtful and unsatisfactory, that the longitude determined by the chronometers was preferred. The following are the observations that were taken to fix its situation, namely:
Latitude by fourteen meridional altitudes of the sun l. l. on the sea-horizon, taken in various parts of the bay, and reduced by survey to Bottle Rock 11 37 24.
The difference of longitude between Bottle Rock and Cassini Island by chronometers, taken in:
1819: 7 40 47.
1820: 7 40 00.
1821: 7 38 28.
Mean difference between Cassini Island and Bottle Rock: 7 39 45.
Longitude of Cassini Island from Careening Bay, by survey: 125 38 46.
Longitude of Bottle Rock, by chronometer, from Cassini Island: 133 18 31.
The mean of the results of the lunar distances that were taken during the years 1818 and 1819, gave for the longitude of the rock 133 degrees 31 minutes 58 seconds East. On our last voyage the mean of the Bathurst's and Dick's watches made it 133 degrees 19 minutes 40 seconds, which was finally adapted, since it accorded better with the chronometrical difference between its meridian and that of Cassini Island. I have never been able to account for this extraordinary disagreement between the results of the lunar distances and the chronometers, since the former were taken with the sun on both sides of the moon, and seemed to be very good.
CAREENING BAY. This place was fixed by a series of observations, in latitude 15 degrees 6 minutes 18 seconds South, and 125 degrees 0 minutes 46 seconds East. (See Appendix A. in a note.)
KING GEORGE THE THIRD'S SOUND. The longitude of this place was adapted from the observations and survey of Captain Flinders, as follows; namely:
The tent on the east shore of the entrance of Oyster Harbour. Latitude 35 degrees 0 minutes 17 seconds, and longitude 117 degrees 56 minutes 22 seconds.
The sandy beach under the low part of the land of Bald Head (the first sandy bay round the head) is in latitude 35 degrees 6 minutes, and longitude 117 degrees 58 minutes 6 seconds.
COEPANG, in the Island of Timor. The situation of the flag-staff of FORT CONCORDIA, where our chronometers were rated, is in latitude 10 degrees 9 minutes 6 seconds, and longitude 123 degrees 35 minutes 46 seconds, according to the observations of Captain Flinders.