A VISIT TO THE BATTLEFIELDS AROUND RHEIMS
A thorough visit can be made in two days.
The Itinerary for each day is divided into two parts, to allow tourists to return to Rheims for lunch.
| First Day | { Morning | pp. [122]-[133]. |
| { Afternoon | pp. [134]-[159]. | |
| Second Day | { Morning | pp. [160]-[165]. |
| { Afternoon | pp. [166]-[174]. |
FIRST DAY
MORNING
THE MOUNTAIN OF RHEIMS
(See the complete Itineraries on p. [121], and the summary of the war operations on p. [131].)
This part of the Itinerary will take the tourist to the most important points of the last German offensive of 1918, which aimed at the capture of Rheims.
Starting from the Place du Parvis Nôtre-Dame, take the Rue Libergier, opposite the Cathedral, turn to the right into the Rue Chanzy, follow same as far as the Rue de Vesle, take the latter on the left, and follow it to the end.
After the Porte de Paris (see p. [68]) the Rue de Vesle becomes the Avenue de Paris. Take same, but after passing under the railway bridge, turn to the left into the Avenue d'Epernay (R. N. 51, see plan, p. [121]).
Take the second street on the right (Rue de Bezannes), which passes in front of the Western Cemetery, devastated by the bombardments.
The road crosses numerous lines of trenches and boyaux, which defended the immediate approaches to Rheims.
Before reaching Bezannes village, leave on the right, two roads which skirt a large estate enclosed with railings, go straight on to the ruined railway-station of Bezannes, then turn to the right.
Bezannes
(See Itinerary, p. [122].)
Cross the first group of half-ruined houses, then, on reaching a second group, which forms the main part of the village, turn to the left into the first street encountered, where the partially destroyed church stands.
The round-vaulted apse, tower, nave and aisles all belong to the Romanesque period. The Gothic doorway is 13th, and the spire of the belfry 15th century.
The square tower greatly resembles the old belfry on the doorway of St. Remi Church in Rheims, and, like the latter, dates apparently from the middle of the 11th century.
The Gothic doorway of the west front is set up against a Romanesque wall. The gable has been rebuilt in modern times. Vestiges of an ancient portal are to be found on each side of the doorway. The key-stones of the arch above the tympanum, like those of the upper arching, are numbered in Roman figures, a peculiarity rarely to be found.
Facing the doorway of the church, on the left of the great entrance-door to a court, is a niche containing a 16th century stone statue representing a bishop wearing a chasuble.
In the court of the same house, over the door of the main structure, on the right, in an arched Renaissance niche, hollowed out and ornamented with marble incrustations, is the statue of a canon with folded hands kneeling at the foot of a crucifixion.
A shell-splinter took off the head of the bishop's statue, but the other group is intact.
CHURCH OF BEZANNES IN 1914
Those interested in things pre-historic, may visit the Pistat Collection at Bezannes, which contains a great number of interesting specimens belonging to the stone and neolithic ages, and to the Gallic and Roman periods of the region.
Of the old castles of Bezannes, nothing of interest remains.
On September 11, 1914, during the Battle of the Marne, the German Staff took up their quarters in the house of M. Poullot. On the 12th, the battle attained the vicinity of the village.
Skirt the church, and at the cross-roads at the end of the village, keep straight on, past the cemetery on the right.
The road climbs a small hill lined with trenches, then descends to the village of Les Mesneux.
At the entrance to this village (which is of no particular interest) turn to the right, and at the fork about fifty yards farther on, to the left, leaving the unmetalled road on the right.
About half-a-mile from Les Mesneux and shortly before reaching the crossing with the road to Rheims (G. C. 6), there is a small wood at the place called Le Champ Clairon. It was from here that German batteries under Colonel von Roeder fired on Rheims on September 4, 1914, in spite of the protestations of the Mayor of Les Mesneux, who assured the German commander that the French troops had completely evacuated the town.
At the crossing with G. C. 6, keep straight on to Ormes, whose church, at the entrance to the village, was almost entirely destroyed.
Ormes
(See Itinerary, p. [122].)
This village, in addition to numerous subterranean passages and chambers, possesses the interesting 12th century Church St. Remi (photo below).
Its circular apse with cornice resting on corbels is barrel-vaulted. Colonnettes in the great bays of the steeple (in ruins) carry carved 12th century capitals.
The pointed vaulting of the southern transept is 12th century, and the ogival groining rests on Norman capitals. The doorway of the western façade dates from the second half of the 12th century, and although its porch was destroyed in 1853 it is still remarkable.
THE CHURCH OF ORMES
THE INSIDE OF ORMES CHURCH
It comprises three tierce-pointed arcades surmounted by a line of billet-moulding. The lateral arcades are blind, while the higher central arcading around the door is surmounted with three receding tori resting on crocketed foliate capitals. The lateral arcades have similar capitals but only one torus.
Inside the church are interesting 16th century statues: St. Barbara in stone and St. Catharine, painted and decorated, face the altar; St. Remi in stone, remarkable for its costume and decoration, stands above the altar of the northern chapel; a wooden Virgin surmounts the inner doorway.
ALTAR-SCREEN OF THE CHOIR
THE ROAD FROM RHEIMS TO JOUY, NEAR THE LATTER VILLAGE
Note the camouflaging.
Return by the same road to the crossing with the road to Rheims (G. C. 6), where, opposite the Café du Joyeux Laboureur, turn to the right.
The road rises towards the Mountain of Rheims. Of the camouflaging seen in above photograph, only traces remain.
Shortly after, the tourist passes between the villages of Jouy and Pargny, whose houses border the road. Jouy (on the left) and Pargny (on the right) were bombarded by the Germans in June, 1915.
The Church of Jouy, visible from the road to Rheims, was almost entirely destroyed.
To visit the church of Pargny, turn to the right opposite the grocery stores, No. 262, then take the second street on the left (near a fine mansion partly in ruins).
About 100 yards farther on is the church, the belfry of which was destroyed. Return to the crossing with the main road to Rheims, where turn to the right.
The road continues to climb the northern slopes of the Mountain of Rheims. On a hill to the left, the Chapel of St. Lié dominates the surrounding plain. There is a very fine view of Rheims from here.
The top of the rise is reached soon afterwards. Descend the southern slopes, passing between the sidings of an important material and ammunition depot situated on the reverse side of the mountain out of sight of the enemy's observation-posts. On reaching the crossing half-way down the hill, leave on the left the two roads leading respectively to Ville Dommange and Courmas.
A short distance further on, after passing the road to Onrézy (on the left), take the following narrow road on the left, which passes between clumps of trees that were cut to pieces by shell-fire.
A little further on, on the right, is a cemetery containing the graves of some two hundred French, British and Italian soldiers.
Turn to the right after the cemetery. The road crosses a fine avenue bordered with shell-torn poplar trees, leading to the Castle of Commetreuil on the left. The village of Bouilly is reached soon afterwards.
THE END OF BOUILLY VILLAGE
(going towards St. Euphraise).
Bouilly—St. Euphraise—Clairizet
(See pp. [131]-[132], and Itinerary, p. [122].)
Bouilly was burnt by the Germans on September 12, 1914, under the pretext that the inhabitants had caused the death of two Uhlans killed the day before by French Chasseurs.
Turn to the right opposite the Church of Bouilly. There is a small cemetery on the right, just outside the village, containing several German graves.
On reaching G.C. 6, leading to Rheims, turn to the right. Take the first road on the left, which passes through a small devastated wood, where batteries of guns were posted. Cross a small stream, and immediately afterwards the railway, then turn to the left into the village of St. Euphraise.
Turn to the right in the village, opposite the church. The road rises steeply to the hamlet of Clairizet, which was almost entirely destroyed. Pass by a "Calvary," composed of four large trees surrounding a cross, then turn to the left into a small narrow street.
RUINED CHURCH OF ST. EUPHRAISE
COULOMMES VILLAGE SEEN FROM THE CHURCH
Coulommes-la-Montagne—Vrigny
(See Itinerary, p. [122].)
The road rises, then descends to Coulommes-la-Montagne. Turn to the right at the entrance to the village. The church, in ruins, is on the left.
At the cross-roads just outside the village take G.C. 26 on the left. At first, the road dips rather abruptly, then rises to Vrigny.
The Church of Vrigny, entirely in ruins, is on the right at the entrance to the village. Pass the Town Hall, leaving a public washing-place on the left, then turn to the right.
On leaving the village, take G.C. 26 on the left to the village of Gueux.
RUINS OF THE CHURCH AT VRIGNY
RUINS OF THE CHURCH OF GUEUX IN 1918
Gueux
(See pp. [131]-[132] and Itinerary, p. [122].)
Gueux is a small old-world village, with ancient houses, castle and church.
At the entrance to the village, a large square with trees, cut to pieces and devastated by the bombardment.
From the square, go to the Church on the right, now a heap of ruins. Seen through the trees from the square it forms a pitiful sight.
In the chapel, on the left of the main entrance, there was a fine piece of Renaissance carving.
GUEUX CHURCH IN 1917
Cardinal Luçon coming out of the Church (see above).
It was to Gueux that the Archbishop of Rheims, Mgr. Luçon, betook himself after the bombardments of April, 1917. The village cemetery contains many soldiers' graves. The Cardinal-Archbishop of Rheims presided at a pathetic ceremony held during the War in honour of the dead.
THE ANCIENT CASTLE OF GUEUX
To visit the Castle, cross the square and take a small street on the left, which leads to the road to Rosnay (G.C. 27).
Turn to the left, and fifty yards further on take on foot the narrow street on the left, which leads to the old castle.
This ancient castle, where the Kings of France, on their way to Rheims to be consecrated, used to dine, suffered severely from the bombardments. Outwardly it has, however, retained its general appearance (photo above).
Return to the car, and go straight on to the fork in the roads to Rosnay and Prémecy. Facing the fork is the entrance to the park and modern Castle of Gueux, belonging to the Roederer family, which was completely destroyed (photo below).
Turn the car round at the above-mentioned fork and continue straight along G.C. 27.
Beyond the village of Gueux the road crosses numerous lines of trenches. Many shelters and ammunition depots can still be seen along the road. The National Road from Rheims to Soissons (N. 31) is reached soon afterwards. Near the cross-ways are the ruins of an inn.
At this crossing, leave the National Road on the left and take the narrow road on the right which leads to Thillois.
THE MODERN CASTLE OF GUEUX
CROSSING OF THE THILLOIS AND RHEIMS ROADS
Thillois
(See Itinerary, p. [122].)
The Church of Thillois (late 12th century), now a heap of ruins, stood at the entrance to the village.
In 1914 it was still intact in all its vital parts. Its vaulting was pointed, with groining resting on columns, whose capitals were either Romanesque or Gothic. The nave had a timber roof.
The high-altar screen was a fine piece of sculptured stone-work of late 16th or early 17th century. In a niche above the altar, the Virgin, sitting on an X-shaped seat, was holding Jesus, clothed in a tunic and standing on her knee.
Leaving the church behind on the right, turn to the left, to reach the National Road. On the right is a small 18th century castle, behind a clump of fine stately trees, known as the Bosquet de Thillois. It was destroyed by shells.
Return to the National Road, turn to the right at the cross-roads, leaving on the left the road to Champigny, then return direct to Rheims, entering the city by the Avenue and Porte de Paris.
The Mountain of Rheims Battles
(See p. [14] and p. [122].)
The fighting known as the Battles of the Mountain of Rheims took place in 1918 over the whole of the area described above, i.e. from Bouilly to Thillois, via St. Euphraise, Coulommes, Vrigny and Gueux (see the Michelin Illustrated Guide: The Second Battle of the Marne).
The Mountain of Rheims prolongs the region of Tardenois to the east. It is an important military position between the Vesle and the Marne, as it dominates the plain of Champagne. The higher part of it is finely wooded, while on the lower slopes and eastern and southern edges are the famous Champagne vineyards (see Verzenay, pp. [171]-[172]).
During the year 1918 the Germans made tremendous efforts to carry this position, the loss of which would have meant the fall of Rheims, leaving Epernay and Châlons-sur-Marne unprotected.
Although held to the east of Mountain, they obtained important successes on the west, where they reached the Marne, while in May they occupied the Woods of Courton and Le Roi. In July they crossed the Marne and advanced as far as Montvoisin, on the road to Epernay. Very fierce fighting took place, especially to the north-west of the Mountain at Bouilly, Bligny, St. Euphraise and Vrigny. These positions, and Hill 240 to the west of Vrigny, were several times lost and recaptured by the Allied troops under General Berthelot, French, Italian and British, who fought there side by side.
Vrigny was taken by the Germans on May 30, but retaken by the Allies on June 1 at the point of the bayonet. The same evening, four German regiments, after progressing slightly in the direction of Hill 240, were first checked, then driven back after bitter hand-to-hand fighting.
On June 9, the Germans were repulsed around Vrigny, after having sustained severe losses. On the 23rd, they rushed Bligny Hill, held by Italian troops, reaching the summit, but were shortly afterwards driven back. On the 29th, they sustained a like check at the same place.
In July they advanced their lines slightly towards Marfaux, Pourcy and Cuchery, but were unable to hold the captured ground. On the 18th, the Italians advanced in the region of Bouilly. On the 19th, Franco-British troops progressed towards St. Euphraise. On the 21st, the Allies carried Bouilly and St. Euphraise. On the 24th and 25th, in spite of desperate repeated efforts, the Germans were unable to hold Hill 240 which they had temporarily captured. On August 1 further enemy efforts to carry the Bligny uplands failed.
The region of Gueux—Thillois—Champigny was terribly ravaged by the war.
On September 11th, 1914, the French 5th Division, under General Mangin, drove the enemy from these positions, which remained in the French lines until May 30, 1918. Occupied by the Germans on May 31, after fierce fighting, they were completely devastated by artillery fire. Retaken by the French, then lost again in July, Thillois was finally recaptured on August 2, at the same time as Gueux.
On August 4, after having reached the Vesle at several points east of Fismes, French troops engaged a vigorous battle between Muizon and Champigny, and some of them succeeded in crossing the river the same day.
Champagne Wine
Wine-growing has always been a favourite industry in this part of France. The vineyards extend over the Rheims hills and along the valley of the Marne. In the hilly country around Rheims there are two distinct growths of wine: the Montagne proper, with its famous Verzy, Verzenay, Mailly, Ludes, Rilly and Villers "crus," and the Petite Montagne with its secondary "crus" of the Tardenois Valley, Hermonville Hills, St. Thierry, Nogent l'Abbesse and Cernay-les-Reims. The Montagne produces more especially black grapes for white wines.
Champagne wines were famous as far back as the 16th and 17th centuries. Henri IV. had a marked preference for the wines of Ay. The magnitude of the cellars still to be seen in the 16th and 17th century houses testifies to the importance of a trade, whose main outlets were Paris, Flanders, Belgium and Germany.
The Champagne wines of that period were red, and rivals of the famous Burgundy wines.
The vogue of Champagne wines as understood to-day dates back to the end of the 17th century. It was Dom Pérignon, cellarer of the Abbey of Hautevillers, near Epernay, who, if not actually the inventor of sparkling wines, first undertook to perfect them by blending the "crus" and preparing them with greater care.
In the last years of the reign of Louis XIV., and still more so under the Regency, the use of Champagne at Court gained ground, especially at the tables of the Duc de Vendôme and the Marquis de Sillery.
At that time Champagne was merely a "creamy" wine, i.e. semi-sparkling. The low breaking strain of the glass of those days would not have allowed of the higher pressure (six atmospheres) of the present-day wine. The discovery of the chemist François, who in 1836 at Châlons invented a special "densimeter," made it possible to calculate the amount of carbonic acid gas contained in the must, and to proportion the expansive force of the wine to the strength of the bottles, thus reducing losses by breakage, which for long had been very serious.
From the 19th century onwards, the production of Champagne wine has grown unceasingly. The number of bottles of sparkling Champagne placed on the market for sale in France and abroad rose from 19,145,481 (of which 16,705,719 went abroad) between April, 1875, and April, 1876, to 33,171,395 (of which 23,056,847 went abroad) between April, 1906 and April, 1907. During the first ten months of 1915, the exports of Champagne and sparkling wines were 630,140 wine-quarts, as against 1,092,660 wine quarts in 1914.
FIRST DAY
AFTERNOON
ST. THIERRY HEIGHTS—LE GODAT—THE GLASS-WORKS OF LOIVRE—BRIMONT—THE "CAVALIERS DE COURCY"
(See complete Itineraries, p. [121], and summary of the military operations, pp. [147] and [154].)
Starting from the Place du Parvis-Nôtre-Dame, follow the morning's Itinerary (p. [122]) as far as the railway bridge, then continue straight along the Avenue de Paris (N. 31). Before leaving Rheims the tourist can, if desired, visit Haubette Park. In this case, turn to the left, opposite No. 10, Avenue de Paris, into the Rue Flin des Oliviers. The entrance to Haubette Park (an annex of the Calmette Dispensary) stands at the beginning of this street, on the right.
Napoleon I. bivouacked in this park while his troops attacked Rheims in 1814. A monument and a small museum commemorate the event. At the end of 1914 Haubette Park was a favourite recreation ground and refuge for the inhabitants of the city during the bombardments.
Return to the junction of N. 31 (which leads to Fismes) with G. C. 6 (the road to Ville-en-Tardenois). Take N. 31 on the right. About 1 km. from the fork take the first road on the right.
On reaching Tinqueux turn to the left at the entrance to the village, and follow the main road.
Tinqueux—Mont St. Pierre
The church of Tinqueux (St. Peter's) was entirely destroyed. It contained, on the left side of the nave, a remarkable 16th century painting on wood, representing the Adoration of the Shepherds, with a frame of the same period.
Near the church, between the Vesle and the main street of the village, stood an old baronial mansion, in front of which was a building with turreted façade known as the Maison de la Salle. Inside the buildings which, in later years, served as a farm, there was a curious old wooden staircase with railed balustrade. The whole was destroyed by the shells.
In September, 1914, at the beginning of the bombardment of Rheims, many of the people took refuge at Tinqueux.
THE MAIN STREET OF TINQUEUX VILLAGE
At the end of the main street of the village, opposite a kind of observation-post with ladder in a tree, turn to the right. The road passes at the foot of Mont St. Pierre, whose village and church entirely disappeared in the 17th century. It was to replace the church of Mont St. Pierre that the church of St. Pierre de Tinqueux was built at the end of the 17th century.
The road turns abruptly and nears the Vesle. Turn to the right and cross the river to reach St. Brice.
St. Brice—Champigny—Merfy
(Itinerary, p. [134].)
Turn to the right at the entrance to the village and take the first street on the right, which leads to the church.
THE RUINED CHURCH OF CHAMPIGNY
The Church of St. Brice was almost entirely destroyed. In style, it is Romanesque, with Renaissance doorway and aisles. The door of the west front contains interesting carvings—unhappily much mutilated.
Return by the same way to the cross-roads in front of the bridge over the Vesle, turn to the right, then, about 150 yards further on, to the left. Continue straight ahead, cross the railway (l.c.) and follow the railway on the left.
About half a mile further on an avenue on the right leads to the Château de la Malle. Both the castle and grounds were badly damaged by the bombardment.
Standing in the park with magnificent avenues of beech-trees, the castle is one of the most ancient manors in the vicinity of Rheims. It was rebuilt in one storey at the beginning of the 14th century on the old foundations. The decoration of the interior (Louis XVI.) is interesting. The drawing-room has retained its old wainscoting and paintings. A carved shield bearing the arms of the Cauchon family, a member of which, the Bishop of Beauvais, sided with the English and the Duke of Burgundy against the Dauphin of France and Joan of Arc during the Hundred Years' War, is still to be seen over a door of one of the out-buildings.
Return by the same road to the Vesle. Cross the river and follow it (as per Itinerary, p. [134]), to the village of Champigny.
Cross straight through the village by the main street, at the end of which stands the church in a narrow by-street near the entrance to a park (photo, p. [136]).
The little church of St. Theodule is 12th century, except the wooden belfry, which was modern. The belfry and roof were destroyed.
MERFY CASTLE, CONVERTED BY THE GERMANS INTO A BLOCKHOUSE
General Foch had his Headquarters there in 1914.
On leaving the village, go straight ahead. The road (G.C. 75) follows the railway on the left. Cross the railway (l.c.). The road passes along the marshy valley of the Vesle, then rises towards the St. Thierry Heights.
At the cross-roads of the hamlet of Mâco, keep straight on along G.C. 26. The road runs between two fairly high embankments containing numerous shelters. Slightly before entering the village of Merfy is a cemetery containing graves of French, British and German soldiers.
At the entrance to the same village, on the right, stands a castle, severely damaged, which, early in September, 1914, served as headquarters to General Foch (photo above).
A little farther is the church, almost entirely destroyed.
At the church, turn to the right and follow the main street, which is lined with houses in ruins.
On leaving Merfy, cross the railway (l.c.). The village of St. Thierry is reached shortly afterwards.
ENTRANCE TO ST. THIERRY VILLAGE
The sign and camouflaging are German.
ST. THIERRY CHÂTEAU IN 1914
ST. THIERRY CHÂTEAU IN 1919
ST. THIERRY CHURCH
(See other photos, p. [140].)
St. Thierry
(See Itinerary, p. [134], summary of the Military Operations, p. [147].)
This village was frequently bombarded by the Germans from 1914 to 1918. It is crossed by a narrow, winding street containing several sharp turnings. Shortly before the end of the village, the street widens abruptly. About a hundred yards further on is the church, while on the right a monumental door gives access to the Château of St. Thierry (photos, p. [138]).
This castle was built in 1777 by Mgr. de Talleyrand-Périgord, Archbishop of Rheims. It replaced the ancient abbey founded in the 6th century by St. Thierry, a disciple of St. Remi. Remains of the 12th century chapter-house ogives, colonnettes and capitals, as well as an old chimney-piece, have been rebuilt into the kitchens. The spacious Louis XVI. drawing-room and the dining-room were likewise remarkable.
The church (see photos above and on p. [140]) possessed certain remarkable features, e.g. the porch, nave and organ-loft. The 12th century porch had a 17th century pent-house roof.
Inside the church were Gothic stalls, and a 16th century bas-relief depicting The Martyrdom of St. Quentin.
The church is now in ruins.
Opposite the castle gate turn to the left into G.C. 26.
In the embankments along the road are numerous shelters, posts of commandment, ammunition depots, etc.
ST. THIERRY CHURCH
(see p. [139])
RUINED PORTAL OF ST. THIERRY CHURCH
RUINS OF CHOIR, ST. THIERRY CHURCH
RUINS OF THIL CHURCH
Thil—Villers-Franqueux
(See Itinerary, p. [134].)
On reaching Thil, turn to the left at the entrance to the village. Go straight through.
The church, entirely in ruins, stands at the end of the village, on a small eminence to the right.
Half-way through the village, on the left, is a road which leads to the St. Thierry Fort, via the village of Pouillon.
The road from Thil to Cormicy was the starting-point of the communicating trenches which led to the first lines along the National Road No. 44 and along the canal from the Aisne to the Marne, during the long stabilisation period of the Berry-au-Bac—Rheims front. All along the road can still be seen, practically intact, the military works which were in the immediate rear of the front lines, viz., posts of commandment, depots, shelters, etc. At the present time, close to the destroyed villages, these shelters are being used by the people as habitations.
Beyond Thil, the road passes between two embankments. Villers-Franqueux is soon reached. The ruined village and church are somewhat to the right.
RUINS OF VILLERS-FRANQUEUX
RUINED CHURCH OF HERMONVILLE
Hermonville
Follow the rails, straight ahead, to Hermonville.
Turn to the left, at the entrance to the village, into the large square, on the opposite side of which stands the Town Hall, partially destroyed. The Church is on the right.
This remarkable church is 12th century. The pointed vaulting of the nave was raised in 1870, but this had been provided for in the original plans. At the intersection of the transept the pointed vaulting is lower. The capitals with their finely carved palm-leaves appear to be rather more recent than those of the nave, and extend frieze-like round the pillars. The bays of the transept-arms and of the two square eastern chapels are round-arched and surmounted with a quatrefoil—an arrangement frequently met with in the vicinity of Rheims.
The outer porch, like that of Cauroy-les-Hermonville and St. Thierry, is a 12th century addition. The depressed arch of the entrance is 17th century.
The square tower at the corner of the nave and south transept has cubic capitals in the twin bays of the second storey.
The ancient cemetery, which used to surround the church, is bordered by old houses. Entrance was gained by a little gate facing the porch, in which are incrusted fragments of a 15th century altar-screen representing a horseman and a group of persons.
The village was frequently bombarded by the Germans after the Battle of the Marne. In 1916 several inhabitants were killed by shells.
Leave the church on the right, and follow the Rue Sébastopol, at the end of which is an abrupt turning to the left. The road skirts a large house and garden surrounded by a wall. At the end of the latter, turn to the right into the Rue de Sommerville. On leaving the village, turn to the left, then go straight on to Cauroy-les-Hermonville.
CAUROY CHURCH IN 1914
Cauroy-les-Hermonville
Turn to the right at the entrance to the village, then into the first street on the left, where stands the half-destroyed Church of Nôtre-Dame.
This Church (historical monument) has an original 12th century porch, which was mutilated by the bombardments.
Romanesque in style, it stands out from the remainder of the building and extends over the whole breadth of the west front. Its tile-covered roof rests on a timber-work frame, whose beams appear to be 16th century. Two round-arched openings in the ends of the porch serve as entrances. The front is pierced with a number of round arcades. The central door giving access to the church is of a later date (16th or 17th century). The capitals of the arcadings are 12th century. Their curious decoration represents figures of men, animals, birds, scrolls, etc.
The ruined tower and nave were likewise 12th century. The side-chapels, transept-crossing and choir were rebuilt in the 16th century.
CAUROY CHURCH IN 1918
STREET IN CAUROY VILLAGE
(Seen from the Porch of the Church. To go from Cauroy to Cormicy, take this street opposite the Church.)
In the interior of the church, the wooden altar-screen over the high-altar dated from 1616. The painting which decorated its central panel, and the side woodwork of the choir were removed in 1888. The altar-screen (1547) of the southern side-chapel was composed of an assemblage of stone statues representing The Virgin carrying Jesus, St. Roch, a pilgrim, and St. Stephen, a deacon, with the donor kneeling at his feet.
Under several of the houses in the village are subterranean passages, the most noteworthy being that under the old presbytery on the left of the church, to which access is gained by a stair of fifty-one steps.
Leave the village of Cauroy by the street (photo, p. [145]) which opens up opposite the church.
The road passes through clumps of devastated trees. On the left side of the road is a cemetery, containing numerous well-organised shelters. The village of Cormicy is next reached.
Cormicy
(See Itinerary, p. [134].)
Turn to the right at the entrance to the village. On either side are tree-lined boulevards, which were made on the ancient ramparts. The trees have been cut to pieces by the shells.
Cormicy was formerly a small fortified town with turret, gates, ramparts and moats, all of which have disappeared except one gate. The site was planted with trees, which surround practically the whole town. The town was destroyed in the time of Charles VI., during the Hundred Years' War.
The present village suffered severely during the German bombardments, most of the houses being damaged. In June, 1916, only eighty-three inhabitants remained in their homes.
CORMICY CHURCH IN 1914
The ancient Church was likewise badly damaged (photos above and below). While the tower, west front, and the two first bays of the nave are late 15th or early 16th century, the greater part of the nave is 11th or 12th century. The chevet and the transept-crossing are early 13th century, while the transept ends probably date from the middle of 12th century.
CORMICY CHURCH IN 1918
The portal comprises twin doors surmounted with a broad flamboyant recess. The doors have been partially mutilated. Above the window runs a balcony, the Gothic balustrade of which, known as the Gloria Gallery, was modern. This balustrade was destroyed by the bombardments, which also brought down the steeple.
G.C. 32 ROAD ON LEAVING CORMICY
(See Itinerary, p. [134].)
The west front has two Gothic doors with 16th century iron-work, at the extremity of the aisles. The tympana of these doors, formerly lighted, have been bricked up. The lintels have three consoles ornamented with fantastic animals and banderoles. The three statues which carried the consoles have long since disappeared.
In the south transept, on the left, behind the altar, is an interesting small door surmounted with a square lintel of the 11th or 12th century. Two figures of winged monsters with heads of a man and a woman and fish tails, stand out in high relief, framed and separated by a belt, on which are carved florets mingled with fantastic figures.
The three remarkable 18th century marble altars of the choir and transept chapels come from the Church of the Nuns of Longueau, the abbey of which, in the Rue du Jard at Rheims, was sold in 1790. The high-altar occupies nearly the whole of the chancel. Over the tomb, six columns of grey Dinant marble, crowned with Corinthian capitals, support an oval marble cornice with richly carved and gilt consoles of wood. The very large, white and gilt tabernacle is a fine example of 17th or 18th century woodwork. Its door, decorated with symbolic attributes, is surrounded by statuettes depicting, in the lower part, St. John the Evangelist and a holy woman wearing crowns; above each of these figures, an angel; at the top, The Resurrection of Christ.
The sixteen carved oak stalls of the choir, as well as the wrought-iron reading-desk on a marble pedestal, also came from the former Abbey of Longueau.
Near the choir, on a pillar of the nave, is an inscription to the effect that the chronicler Flodoard, who died in 966, was Curé of Cormicy.
The modern Town Hall, built by the Rheims architect, Gosset the elder, which faced the church, was entirely destroyed.
All the places visited since leaving Merfy, i.e. St. Thierry, Thil, Villers-Franqueux, Hermonville and Cormicy, border the St. Thierry Heights. The latter are commanded by the fort of the same name and the Chenay Redoubt, with altitudes of about 670 and 620 feet respectively. They were recaptured from the Germans after the Battle of the Marne on September 11, 1914, by the French 3rd Corps.
After the loss of the Chemin-des-Dames and the Aisne Canal on May 27, 1918, this position, which with its guns commands the road and railway from Rheims to Soissons and the road from Rheims to Laon, remained the sole protection of Rheims to the north-west.
It was defended by the French 45th Infantry Division (General Naulin), composed of Algerian Sharp-shooters, Zouaves and African Light Infantry, who held their ground on May 27-28, after which they were reinforced by battalions of Singalese and Marines drawn from the sector east of Rheims.
The struggle was a fierce one, and hand-to-hand fighting frequent. Finally the constant inflow of German reserves forced back the French who, on May 29, had to abandon the position, to which the enemy afterwards clung for four months. On October 1 the Germans, beaten on the previous evening by the French 5th Army on the high ground between the Aisne and Rheims, was forced to retreat. The French regained possession of Merfy and St. Thierry, and advanced as far as the outskirts of the Fort of St. Thierry, which, with Thil and Villers-Franqueux, Hermonville, Courcy and Cormicy, fell into their hands in the course of the next few days (see map above).
DESTROYED BRIDGE OVER THE CANAL, NEAR LE GODAT
From Cormicy to Godat Farm
(See Itinerary, p. [134].)
Pass straight through Cormicy, leaving the church on the left. Take G.C. 32 to the Rheims-Laon road (N. 44), where turn to the right. Rather less than a mile further on, near the Maison Blanche, is a road leading to Godat Farm. Cars can only go as far as the canal, the destroyed bridge (photo above) not having yet been rebuilt. The lock-keeper's house seen in the photograph below was completely destroyed.
THE LOCK-KEEPER'S HOUSE AT LE GODAT
(Now destroyed.)
Cross the canal on foot to reach Godat Farm, situated about 300 yards further on.
Le Godat, formerly a small fief with a castle and chapel (destroyed during the Revolution in 1793), was merely a farm and a plain country house when the war broke out. By reason of its position, north of the Aisne Canal, this bridgehead was, throughout the war, one of the most fiercely disputed points in the sector north-west of Rheims, even during the period of trench-warfare. At the time of the French offensive of April, 1917, the 44th Infantry Regiment advanced beyond Le Godat, where the French held their ground until the powerful German push of May 27, 1918.
RUINS OF LE GODAT FARM
The farm is now a mere heap of ruins. Shelters still exist in the basements.
Return to the National Road, and turn to the left.
The road crosses numerous boyaux which provided access to the front-line trenches down the hill on the right.
Follow the National Road to Chauffour Farm (in ruins), where take the road on the left to Loivre.
EMPLACEMENT OF GERMAN HEAVY GUN AT LOIVRE
On nearing the canal, the ruins of the village of Loivre (entirely destroyed) become visible.
RUINS OF THE CHURCH AT LOIVRE
From Loivre to Brimont
Loivre.—Visit the village on foot. The canal can only be crossed near the lock south-east of the village. The destroyed bridge has been replaced by a temporary footway across the bed of the canal, which necessitates climbing down and up the banks by steep paths.
After crossing the canal the tourist passes by the ruins of the Loivre Glass-Works, founded in 1864 by the descendants of the noble house of Bigault de Grandrupt, glass manufacturers of Argonne.
GENERAL VIEW OF THE RUINS AT LOIVRE IN 1919
Loivre and its glass-works were occupied in September, 1914, by the Germans, who deported the inhabitants to the Ardennes. The village and works were re-captured during the offensive of April 16, 1917, by the French 23rd and 133rd Infantry Regiments, surnamed Les Braves and Les Lions respectively. Whilst other battalions outflanked the village and crossed the canal, the third battalion of Lions attacked it in front. The position, powerfully organised, was stoutly defended. The attacking troops were obliged to come to a halt in front of the cemetery (a veritable bastion with concrete casemates), and before the ruins of the mill, both of which bristled with machine-guns. Withdrawing slightly to allow of a barrage of 75's, they rushed forward again under the protection of the latter. The site of the mill and the cemetery were captured, together with numerous prisoners (122 were taken in one machine-gun shelter). The ruined village was next carried in a bayonet charge, to the sound of the bugles. The captures were considerable, one battalion of 500 men alone taking 825 prisoners.
SEPULCHRE IN THE CEMETERY AT LOIVRE, USED BY THE GERMANS AS A PHOTOGRAPHIC DARK-ROOM
In March and May, 1918, two violent attacks were made on Loivre by the Germans, but without success. They took it on May 27, only to be driven out on October 4.
Before the war, a road, which has since completely disappeared, led direct from Loivre to Brimont. To reach the latter it is now necessary to go farther north, via Berméricourt and Orainville, returning southwards by the Neufchâtel to Rheims road (see Itinerary, p. [134]).
Berméricourt.—This hamlet, of Gallo-Frankish origin, was formerly more populous. The bombardments have literally wiped it out.
From Berméricourt the tourist reaches Orainville by G.C. 30, which becomes I.C. 2 after crossing the boundary line between the "departments" of the Marne and the Ardennes. At the entrance to the ruined village, near the church, turn to the right into I.C. 12, which, 1 kilometre further on, joins the road from Neufchâtel to Rheims (G.C. 9), where turn to the right.
Follow this road for four and a half kilometres to the ruins of Landau Farm, turn to the right, then, about 200 yards further on, take the road on the left to the village of Brimont, entirely destroyed.
ALL THAT REMAINS OF BERMÉRICOURT VILLAGE
Brimont Fort and Château
(See Itinerary, p. [134], and summary of the Military Operations, p. [154].)
Situated to the west of the road from Rheims to Neufchâtel (formerly a Roman causeway which crossed the hill at Cran de Brimont) Brimont was already important in Roman times. It was fortified in the Middle Ages, and traces of its ancient fortifications are still to be found on the hill. The discovery of a Roman tomb in 1790 caused considerable excitement in archæological circles, as it was believed to be the burial-place of the Frankish Chief Pharamond who, according to one chronicler, had been buried on a hillock near Rheims.
In 1339, during the siege of Rheims by the English, the Duke of Lancaster had his camp at Brimont.
RUINS OF BRIMONT VILLAGE
In the foreground, on the left: Road to Brimont Fort. On the right: Beginning of the road to the Château (entirely destroyed).
RUINS OF THE CHURCH OF BRIMONT
On several occasions, since September, 1914, the Germans deported the inhabitants of Brimont and Coucy to the Ardennes. The village is now destroyed and its church a heap of ruins.
The church was built at the beginning of the 15th century.
The four last bays of the nave, which was partly Romanesque, were altered in the middle of the 16th century.
The sacristy occupied the lower storey of the square, pointed-arch tower.
Several ancient statues were placed at the entrance to the Choir: St Remi, with a woman in late 15th century dress kneeling at his feet; a Virgin offering grapes to the Infant Jesus in her arms (late 15th century) and a large Christ Crucified, dated from the middle of the 16th century. A beautiful 18th century lectern of carved wood, representing an eagle standing on a massive three-sided pedestal of red and white marble, stood in front of the Choir.
BRIMONT FORT
To visit the Fort of Brimont, skirt the church on the side of the portal staircase, then take the road seen on the photograph on p. [152]. The Fort is about 400 yards further on.
The Defences North of Rheims and the Fighting in that Sector
The Fort of Brimont, completed by the Battery of the Cran de Brimont about a mile to the east, and on the west by the Loivre Battery, mentioned on page [151], sweeps the whole country north of Rheims as far as the banks of the Aisne, Suippe, Retourne and the Aisne-Marne canal, the Rheims-Neufchâtel, Rheims-Vouziers, Rheims-Rethel and Rheims-Laon roads, and the Rheims-Laon and Rheims-Charleville railways. About five miles east of Brimont and four miles east of Rheims is the position of Berru (see p. [165]), extending along a front of about six miles, via the hills of Berru and Nogent l'Abbesse. Intended by those who planned it to guard the valley of the Suippe, the Rheims-Rethe and Rheims-Vouziers roads, as well as the Rheims-Charleville and Rheims-Châlons-sur-Marne railways, it comprises the Fort of Witry (about 150 feet in altitude), the batteries of La Vigie de Berru (870 feet), and the fort and batteries of Nogent-l'Abbesse (670 feet).
The roads shown on the above map are those followed by the Third Itinerary (see p. [160].)
Brimont and Berru are further covered and linked up by the Fort of Fresne (360 feet), situated four miles north-east of Rheims.
These defensive works, conceived and executed after the war of 1870, had, in consequence of the evolution of strategical and tactical doctrines, been abandoned or disarmed before the war of 1914. After evacuating Rheims on September 12, 1914, the Germans grasped the importance of these works, to which they clung tenaciously, after hurriedly organising them. It was against these naturally strong positions, further strengthened by trenches, that the French 5th Army, in pursuit of the enemy, found themselves brought to a standstill on the evening of September 12. From September 13 to 18, the French tried in vain to capture them. The 5th Division, under General Mangin, did succeed in capturing the Château de Brimont, in the plain, but were unable to hold it.
Later, the Germans converted these hills into one of the most formidable positions organised by them in France. Brimont, Berru, Fresne and Nogent l'Abbesse, whose guns slowly destroyed Rheims, were, so to speak, her jailers for four years.
In April, 1917, during the French offensive of the Aisne, one division, known as the "Division of aces" (because its four regiments have the fourragère decoration), penetrated into Berméricourt and advanced to the outskirts of Brimont, but was unable to hold its ground against the furious counter-attacks of the Germans. It was only in October, 1918, that the French 5th Army, in conjunction with the victorious attacks of the 4th Army in Champagne, after forcing the Germans back to the Aisne and the canal, and after crossing the Aisne canal on October 4 in front of Loivre and near Berméricourt, forced the enemy, whose communications were now threatened, to abandon one of the most valuable portions of his 1914 positions. On October 5, the French re-entered Brimont and Nogent l'Abbesse, progressed beyond Bourgogne, Cernay-les-Rheims, Beine, Caurel and Pomacle, and, in spite of desperate enemy resistance, drove back the Germans to the Suippe.
After visiting the fort return to the village of Brimont.
From here the Château de Brimont may be visited, but this will have to be done on foot as the road has been destroyed, traces only of it being left in places (the lower photograph on p. [152] shows the beginning of the road in the village).
The Château de l'Ermitage, also known as the Château de Brimont, is situated about 500 yards south of the village, at the entrance to a large park, completely devastated. It was the scene of desperate fighting (see p. [152]).
Return to Brimont, cross the village (skirting the church) and continue straight on to the Cran de Brimont Redoubt on the road to Rheims. Numerous German trenches, etc., are to be seen here.
Turn to the right into G.C. 9, which dips down to the Plain of Rheims. The region hereabouts bristle with barbed-wire entanglements and is crossed with numerous trenches. It was ranged to an incredible degree by the bombardments.
At the bottom of the hill which starts at the Cran de Brimont, cross Soulains Wood, of which only a few torn tree-stumps remain.
Several hundred yards after leaving the wood, take on foot the broken road to the "Cavaliers de Courcy," situated on the right, about 500 yards further on.
THE AISNE CANAL AT THE "CAVALIERS DE COURCY"
The "Cavaliers de Courcy"
To the north of La Neuvillette, the Aisne-Marne Canal is flanked on both sides by enormous artificial embankments planted with fir-trees and known as the "Cavaliers de Courcy." After their retreat in September, 1914, the Germans entrenched themselves there and clung to the east bank until April, 1917.
On April 16, 1917, the French 410th Regiment of the Line attacked the enemy's formidable positions there. This Brittany regiment set out from positions to which they had given names taken from the history of their country (Quimper Bastion, Auray, Redon Bastion, etc.). On the first day they carried three successive lines of defences, and advanced about a mile. On the 17th and 18th they left their zone of action, to ensure the liaison on their right, and to help a brigade in difficulties on their left. For eight days they held their positions against powerful enemy counter-attacks, after having progressed to a depth of two miles and captured more than 400 prisoners, 11 bomb-throwers, and an immense amount of stores.
These positions, like the neighbouring villages, were re-taken by the Germans in May and June, 1918, and finally by the Allies in October, 1918.
Return to the road and follow it towards Rheims. Leave on the left the devastated Aviation-ground of Champagne—now in a state of complete upheaval, due to the terrific shelling it received—then cross the Plain of Bétheny (photo, p. [157]).
The Plain of Bétheny was the scene of two important historical events: in 1901 the Tsar Nicolas II. reviewed a part of the French Army there; in August, 1909, the Great Aviation Week was inaugurated there, in the presence of an immense crowd of spectators.
GERMAN FIRST-LINE POSITIONS BÉTHENY PLAIN
(see sketch-map below)
Photographed at 7,000 ft. from aeroplane, August 6, 1916, at 10 a.m.
THE GERMAN FIRST-LINE DEFENCES IN THE PLAIN OF BÉTHENY
The tourist passes through this region on returning to Rheims, shortly before coming to the bridge under the railway. The sketch map explains the photograph above.
Pass under the Rheims-Laon railway by a very sharp double turning. Pierquin Farm, entirely destroyed, stood on the right a short distance further on. The only remaining trace is the torn shapeless carcass of a large iron shed.
The railway embankment south of Pierquin Farm was fiercely disputed from September 18, 1914, onwards. Several enemy attacks against it broke down before the French 75's. During the offensive of May, 1918, the whole of this region was the scene of desperate fighting. La Neuvillette was taken on May 30, and Pierquin Farm on the 31st. On August 4, the French, after crossing the Aisne Canal, advanced to La Neuvillette, where the enemy made a desperate stand. At the beginning of October they advanced to the north of La Neuvillette, which the enemy was eventually compelled to abandon. The last inhabitants had left the locality on July 12, 1916.
The tourist enters Rheims by the Rue de Neufchâtel and the Avenue de Laon.
La Neuvillette
On reaching the Avenue de Laon, the tourist, instead of entering Rheims, may turn to the right and go northwards as far as the village and cemetery of La Neuvillette.
The cemetery of La Neuvillette is on the right of the road, between the last houses of Rheims and the village. It was completely cut up by a network of first-line trenches (photos, p. [159]).
The village of La Neuvillette, now in ruins, was the scene of desperate fighting during the German offensive of May, 1918.
Nothing remains of the 12th century church of John-the-Baptist.
The glass-works north-west of the village, by the side of the canal, are now a heap of ruins (photo, p. [159]).
Return to Rheims by the same road.
THE ROAD TO RHEIMS AT NEUVILLETTE
THE GLASS-WORKS AT NEUVILLETTE
DRESSING-STATION AT NEUVILLETTE
THE CEMETERY AT NEUVILLETTE
SECOND DAY
MORNING
FRESNES FORT—WITRY-LES-REIMS—BERRU—NOGENT L'ABBESSE—BEINE
(See complete Itineraries, p. [121], and map on p. [154].)
This Itinerary will lead the tourist through the region of the Forts to the north-east of Rheims, which formed the rear of the German lines during the stabilisation period of 1914-1918.
It was this line of forts that, in the German hands, held the French in check after the first Battle of the Marne. Practically the whole of these works were but little damaged by the relatively light bombardments, and have retained traces of the German organisation.
Leave Rheims by the Avenue de Laon (which begins at Les Pomenades, opposite Mars Gate), and the Rue de Neufchâtel (second street on the right), Sortie No. IX. of the Michelin Tourist Guide (see coloured plan, pp. [32]-[33]).
RUINS OF THE CHURCH AT BOURGOGNE
Follow in the contrary direction the route described in the preceding Itinerary (p. [134] to p. [159]) as far as the crossing in the Berméricourt-Bourgogne road, where stood Landau Farm, now entirely in ruins. At this crossing take G.C. 30 on the right. German camouflaging is still visible on the right-hand side of the road.
Bourgogne—Fresnes
The village of Bourgogne, entirely in ruins, is soon reached.
The village is of very ancient origin. Formerly it was protected by a belt of moats, now partly filled in, and by earthen ramparts, almost everywhere levelled. The lines of these moats, planted with rows of elm-trees, are clearly distinguishable. There is a very extensive view from this original site.
A portion of the village was burnt by the Germans who, in 1916, destroyed the belfry of the church with dynamite.
This church (dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul), with its fine Romanesque tower, was remarkable.
The greater part of it dated from the 12th and 13th centuries. It is now in ruins (photo above).
Cross straight through the village. Numerous German signs are still to be seen. At the cross-roads just outside the village, follow the railway, then cross it near the destroyed railway station of Fresnes. The village of Fresnes is reached shortly afterwards.
Turn to the right at the first crossing met with. The church stands about 100 yards away, on the left.
Norman in style, the Church of Fresnes comprises a central nave with aisles and a tower without transept. It dates back to the 12th century, but was several times extensively altered and restored both in the 18th century and in recent times.
A small porch of limestone added to the northern aisle, is reached by a round Norman bay of stone. In the corner of the porch, to the left on entering, is incrusted a fragment of a small funerary monument of the 16th century.
RUINED CHURCH OF WITRY-LES-REIMS
This church was almost entirely destroyed.
After turning to the right at the crossing mentioned above, keep straight on.
About 2 kilometres from Fresnes the road from that village to Witry-les-Reims crosses an old Roman causeway, at the side of which, slightly to the south of Hill 118, the Fort of Fresnes was built in 1878. This fort was blown up by the Germans during their retreat in 1918. Its ruins are impressive. In the moats of the fort are German trenches and shelters extending right up to the walls of the fort.
The village of Witry-les-Reims is next reached. It suffered severely from the numerous bombardments, which its situation near the first lines rendered inevitable.
Witry-les-Reims
After crossing the railway (l.c.) at the entrance to the village, keep straight on. The ruined church is on the left, near the entrance to the village.
Except for one tower, which dates from the 12th century, the church is modern. The spire was destroyed by the Germans. The belfry, used by the enemy as an observation-post, was struck by French shells.
Like many of the villages around Rheims, Witry-les-Reims is of Gallo-Roman origin. More than two hundred Gallic sepulchres and cinerary urns have been brought to light. The objects thus discovered, including a large number of vases, now form the Bourin pre-historic collection.
After visiting the church keep straight on. At the Mairie, of which only the front remains standing, turn to the right into the Rue Boucton-Fayréaux. Follow this street to the Place Gambetta (about 200 yards distant), where turn to the left. The entrance to "Pommern Tunnel," which connected up the German rear and front lines (photo, p. [163]), is in this square.
The German inscriptions in the tunnel have been taken down, and the entrance blocked up, on account of the roof and walls giving way.
ENTRANCE TO "POMMERN TUNNEL" AT WITRY-LES-REIMS
Leaving the Place Gambetta, take the Rheims-Rethel road (N. 51) on the left, then the first street on the right to the Fort of Witry.
Just outside the village the road crosses the old Roman causeway from Rheims to Trèves, and a little further on passes to the left of the Fort of Witry.
The Fort of Witry suffered but little from the bombardments.
The road climbs the northern slopes of the Berru Hill, across numerous German trenches. At the bottom of a short run-down, opposite the village of Berru, is a crossing of four ways. The road leading to the fort is the one straight ahead.
On the right, among the numerous defences, is a German cemetery containing a monument to the dead, ornamented with somewhat rudimentary carving and bearing an epitaph dedicated to the memory of the German soldiers who fell in the battles around Rheims.
The road continues up the slopes of Berru Hill, to the right of the way leading to the auxiliary battery of the fort of Vigie de Berru. The top of the hill is soon reached, on which the fort, known as the "Vigie de Berru," stands. This fort was little bombarded, and is practically intact.
Berru Hill, on account of its height, its sulphurous and ferruginous waters, flint quarries, and fertile soil, was inhabited in pre-historic times. At the summit, a campignien workshop, and farther down, above the springs which supply the village with water, a neolithic station have been discovered. Thousands of knives, arrow-heads, scrapers, saws, and other primitive tools have been unearthed. In the Gallo-Roman times the village must have been fairly important, judging by the vestiges of the ancient buildings discovered at the foot of the hill. It was near Berru that the Gaulish helmet, now in the National Museum of St. Germain, was found. Towards the end of the 16th century (about 1575), during the Leaguers' struggles around Rheims, the village was fortified, to protect it from pillaging by the soldiers. The moats and glacis which surrounded it are still visible to the south, where, covered with trees, they adjoin the gardens. Subterranean places of refuge, the entrance to which is no longer known, formerly existed underneath the village.
From the fort, the road, winds down the opposite slopes of the hill. At the bottom of the latter, leave on the right the road to the Fort of Nogent l'Abbesse, seen on the high ground to the right.
ENTRANCE TO BEINE VILLAGE BY THE ROAD TO NOGENT L'ABBESSE
Nogent l'Abbesse—Beine—Berru
(See Itinerary, p. [160], and summary of the Military Operations, p. [154].)
The village of Nogent l'Abbesse is next reached, at the entrance to which the road divides into three branches. Take the middle one (G.C. 64), which leads to the ruined village of Beine. During the run-down to the village, there is a fine view of the Champagne Hills in front (Mont Cornillet and Mont Haut).
The village of Beine was one of the oldest demesnes belonging to the Abbey of St. Remi-de-Reims. It was made into a commune at the end of the 12th century.
The church of St. Laurent, situated in the centre of the village, was an excellent specimen of the transition style of the 12th century (photo below).
RUINS OF THE CHURCH AT BEINE
A road leading to Sillery leaves Beine in a south-westerly direction, but owing to its bad condition it is impossible to use it for returning to Rheims. The trenches and shell holes have barely been filled in, and the temporary bridges over the wider trenches would probably break down under a fairly heavy car. On the other hand, the huge craters made by the Germans in the course of their retreat, have only been summarily repaired and are not practicable for motor-cars. Tourists should therefore return to Nogent l'Abbesse by the road they came by.
BERRU CHURCH
Enter the village by the main street, which follow as far as the church, whose belfry has been destroyed.
After the church, take the first street on the right, then the second road on the left (G.C. 64), which leads to Berru. In front of the village, turn to the left and cross straight through. The 12th century Church of St. Martin, which suffered only slightly from the bombardments, is in the middle of the village, on the left (photo above).
On leaving Berru, the tourist comes again to the crossing mentioned on p. [163]. Turn to the right and return to Witry-les-Reims by the road previously followed.
At Witry-les-Reims, take N. 51 on the left, passing by the ruined works of Linguet (photo below).
Rheims is reached by the Faubourg Cérès. Keep straight on to the Place Royale, via the Rue du Faubourg Cérès and the Rue Cérès.
RUINS OF THE LINGUET WORKS
SECOND DAY
AFTERNOON
LA POMPELLE FORT-SILLERY
(See complete Itinerary, p. [121].)
This Itinerary will take the tourist through two regions of entirely different characters.
The first part is devoted to visiting the battlefield south-east of Rheims, which was the scene of much desperate fighting throughout the war, but especially in 1918. This region formed the pivot of the French right wing, and remained firm despite the repeated powerful attacks of the enemy.
The second part of the Itinerary leaves the battlefield proper, and conducts the tourist across the most reputed vine-growing centres of Champagne (Verzenay, Mailly-Champagne and Ludes), through lovely, picturesque country, which, although it has somewhat suffered from the bombardments, has nevertheless retained its pre-war aspect.
Leave Rheims by the Avenue de Châlons, continued by N. 44 (see the plan of Rheims between pp. [32] and [33], F. 6 and H. 7).
The Avenue de Châlons was well within the first-line defences.
Two communicating trenches run along the footpaths on either side of the Avenue.
Skirt Pommery Park, on the left, completely ravaged by the bombardment and the network of trenches which cross it.
As soon as the last houses of the town have been left behind, the tourist finds himself in the midst of the battlefield.
The sector, known as "La Butte-de-Tir," situated on the left, below Cernay and beyond the railway, was the scene of furious fighting throughout the German occupation of 1914 to 1918 (photo below).
THE "BUTTE-DE-TIR" SECTOR
Listening-post in front of Cernay village.
COMMUNICATING TRENCH AT JOUISSANCE FARM (1915)
The road crosses the Châlons Railway (l.c.), and goes thence direct to the Fort of La Pompelle, passing through an inextricable network of trenches and barbed wire entanglements. The country hereabouts was completely ravaged by the terrific bombardments, and recalls the devastated regions around Verdun, near Vaux and Douaumont (see the Michelin Illustrated Guide: Verdun, and the Battles for its Possession).
La Jouissance Farm is next passed. Nothing remains either of it or of the road, which started from this point towards Cernay, on the left.
LA POMPELLE FORT (1918)
THE MOATS OF LA POMPELLE FORT (1918)
The Fort of La Pompelle, which is next reached, is now a mere heap of ruins. The road which led to the fort no longer exists. To visit the ruins of the fort, tourists will have to follow on foot the narrow-gauge railway which starts from the road (photo above).
Tradition has it that St. Timothy came from Asia to convert Rheims, suffered martyrdom, together with St. Apollinaris and several companions, on the hill known as La Pompelle, so-called perhaps from the procession (pompa or pompella) which, in the Middle Ages, used to visit the place of martyrdom of the saints.
This hill, which rises close to the crossing of the Rheims-St.-Hilaire-le-Grand and Rheims-Châlons Roads, was fortified after 1870, to flank the position of Berru on the south.
The road from Rheims to Saint-Hilaire-le-Grand (G.C. 7), which used to start from the "Alger Inn," at the cross-roads mentioned above, no longer exists. Like the inn, it was obliterated by the shelling. A huge crater now occupies the site of the Alger Inn (photo below).
CRATER, WHERE USED TO STAND THE "ALGER INN"
THE IMMEDIATE VICINITY OF WHAT WAS THE "ALGER INN" (1918)
Continue along N. 44. About 1 kilometre from the fort, at a bend in the road, the shattered remnants of trees of an avenue are visible on the left. Under the first fir-tree of this avenue, about 20 yards from the national road, is an armoured machine-gun shelter, almost intact.
Cross the railway (l.c.) near the entirely destroyed station of Petit-Sillery. After passing a ruined château on the left, cross the bridge over the Vesle. At the fork beyond the bridge, leave N. 44 and take G.C. 8 on the right to Sillery.
This village, renowned for its dry wine, is pleasantly situated on the banks of the Vesle. Throughout the war, it was quite close to the trenches and was frequently bombarded. In May, 1916, only some fifty of its inhabitants remained in the village, which subsequently suffered very severely, especially in 1918.
Take a turn in the village, then follow N. 44 towards Châlons (see Itinerary, p. [166]).
THE "PLACE DE LA MAIRIE" AT SILLERY (1918)
The region of Sillery-Pompelle was the scene of much fierce fighting throughout the war. After the capture of La Pompelle and the "Alger Inn" by the French 10th Corps on the night of September 17-18, 1914, the Germans increased the number of their attacks, with a view to regaining these important positions.
One of these attacks (that of December 30, 1914) was preceded by the explosion of a mine at the "Alger Inn," which made a hole 130 feet in diameter by 55 feet deep (see photo, p. [169]). After a hand-to-hand fight, the French drove back the enemy and remained masters of the crater.
In 1918, during their offensives against Rheims, the Germans attacked several times in this region. On June 1, between Pommery Park (in the south-eastern outskirts of Rheims) and the north-east of Sillery, they attacked with eight or nine battalions and fifteen tanks. The garrison of Fort Pompelle, momentarily encircled, held out until a furious counter-attack by the French Colonial Infantry relieved it and drove back the assailants. The German tanks were either captured or destroyed. On the 18th, after an hour's intense bombardment, the Germans made a fresh attack and secured a footing in the Northern Cemetery of Rheims and in the north-eastern outskirts of Sillery, but French counter-attacks drove them out almost immediately. From July 15 to 17 their attacks on Sillery were likewise repulsed.
Continue along N. 44 to the destroyed Espérance Farm (about 2 kilometres distant), then turn to the right. Numerous military works were made by the French in the embankments of the Aisne-Marne canal along the left side of the road.
The road rises towards the "Mountain of Rheims." A white tower, dominating the whole plain, is seen on the left (photo below).
Verzenay is next reached by the Rue de Sillery.
VERZENAY, SEEN FROM THE VERZENAY—MAILLY—CHAMPAGNE ROAD
THE OLD MILL AT VERZENAY
It was at Verzenay that, on the evening of September 3, 1914, the German aeroplane, which had dropped bombs on Rheims the same morning, was brought down. It has suffered relatively little from the bombardments.
To visit the church, which contains the tomb of Saint-Basle (chapel on the right), take the Rue Gambetta, then the Rue Thiers.
After visiting the church, return to the Rue Thiers, at the end of which is the Rue de Mailly (G.C. 26).
Take the latter, which, on leaving Verzenay, rises fairly stiffly.
At the top of the hill, on the right, begins the road leading to Verzenay Mill, which crowns Hill 227 (see Itinerary, p. [166], and photo above).
This mill, whence there is a fine panorama of the plain as far as the hills of Berru and Moronvilliers, was a military observation-post of the first order during the siege warfare.
It belongs to the champagne-wine firm of Heidsieck Monopole, which allows tourists to visit it, as also their vineyards in the surrounding country.
The road dips down to Mailly-Champagne, at the entrance to which village turn to the right into the Rue Gambetta, then to the left into the Rue de Ludes (G.C. 26). The road, cut out of the hillside, is very picturesque as far as Ludes. In the forest, on the left of the road, are numerous "cendrières," or quarries, from which volcanic sulphurous cinders, used for improving the vines, are extracted. Heaps of these valuable cinders (grey, white and black) are frequently encountered at the side of the road.
Ludes is next reached by the Avenue de la Gare.
The region just passed through, including the villages of Verzenay, Mailly-Champagne and Ludes, as well as Verzy (to the east), and Rilly-la-Montagne and Villers-Allerand (to the west), are the wine-growing centres of the "Mountain of Rheims" properly so-called, the black grapes from which produce the best brands of Champagne. The villages are picturesquely situated at the edge of the forests which crown the hills, while the vineyards which cover the slopes of the latter descend to the chalky plain. These vineyards, divided into tiny plots, the ground of which before the ravages of the phylloxera cost as much as 93,000 francs per hectare (about 2-1/2 acres), constitute the principal wealth of the country. Here and there they have suffered from the war, but this has not prevented the vine-dressers from cultivating them (often with the help of the soldiers) or from gathering the grapes, under the continual menace of the German guns.
PUISIEULX. THE CHURCH AND ROAD TO SILLERY
At Ludes, in the Avenue de la Gare, turn to the right into the Rue de Cormontreuil, and again to the right, into the Rue de Puisieulx (G.C. 33).
At the crossing, 1 kilometre beyond Ludes, go straight on. After passing on the right an avenue bordered with trees leading to the Château of Romont, Puisieulx is reached.
At the first crossing, on entering the village, keep straight on, then turn to the right as far as the ruined church, with its curious loop-holed chevet. Leave the church on the right and, at the end of the village, turn to the left. There are a few graves on the right of the road. After skirting a large estate, the trees of which were destroyed by shell-fire, the tourist reaches Sillery.
RUINED CHURCH OF TAISSY
Turn to the left into G.C. 8, at the entrance to the village. On the right are vestiges of a small wood, known as "Zouaves Wood," which was the scene of many sanguinary fights after its capture by the French in 1914.
The tourist next reaches Taissy, whose ruined church is on the right, by the side of the Vesle (photo, p. [173]).
This interesting church is largely Romanesque in style (tower, chevet and nave). The tabernacle, with altar-piece of carved wood, is Louis XIII. A fine wrought-iron railing encloses the sanctuary (photo below). The small, sonorous bell of the belfry is, strange to say, 13th or 14th century.
Pass straight through Taissy, then follow the tram-lines. Cormontreuil is entered by the Rue Victor-Hugo.
From Cormontreuil, the tourist may return to Rheims either by turning to the right in the village, beyond the tram station (in this case he will enter Rheims by the Rue de Cormontreuil which leads to the Place Dieu-Lumière) or by continuing straight ahead. In the latter case he will cross the Faubourg Fléchambault by the Rue Ledru-Rollin. At the end of the latter, turn to the right into the Rue Fléchambault which, after crossing the Vesle and the canal, leads to the Church of St. Remi.
THE CHOIR OF TAISSY CHURCH