Distances.
- Albany, 38 miles.
- Boston via Rutland, 230 miles.
- Philadelphia, 274 miles.
- Washington, 412 miles.
- Chicago, 841 miles.
- White Mountains, 322 miles.
- Boston via Albany, 250 miles.
- Troy, 32 miles.
- New York City, 186 miles.
- Niagara, 311 miles.
- Lake George, 45 miles.
- Montreal, 202 miles.
- Quebec, 392 miles.
- Rutland, 62 miles.
The Railway Station
Is naturally a place of special interest in any watering place. Visitors are no sooner settled in their summer quarters than they become interested in the incomings and outgoings of their fellow men, watching eagerly if perchance any old acquaintance may turn up. The contrast between city and country life in this respect is noticable. Those who, amid the race for wealth in the cities, can scarcely afford a nod to intimate friends, here greet a slight acquaintance even with a friendliness and cordiality undreamed of in the busy town.
The station at Saratoga is elegant and tasteful, facing an open square, adorned with fountain and shade trees. It is built of brick, with elaborate iron trimmings from the Corrugated Iron Company of Springfield, Mass.
VIEW OF CONGRESS PARK.
The crowds are hastening away from it, and with them we will proceed towards
The Village.
Large enough to possess a fixed population of some 9,000, it has double, and perhaps treble, this number in the visiting season; with elegant and costly churches, mammoth hotels and metropolitan stores, affording everything desirable, from a paper of pins to the rarest diamonds and laces, it has been called "rus in urbe"—more properly, urbs in rure.
The principal street is Broadway, miles in length, ample in breadth, and, for the most part, shaded with a double line of graceful elms. Its extremities are adorned with beautiful villas. The Fifth avenue of the place, where the handsomest residences are located, is Circular street, east of the Park. Beautiful dwellings may also be found on Lake avenue and Franklin street. The streets are thronged with a gay and brilliant multitude, engaged in riding, driving, walking, each enjoying to the utmost a facinating kind of busy idleness. But by the time the tourist has glanced at all this he will be thinking of clean napkins, and will be interested to know what may be afforded in the way of
Accommodations for Man and Beast.
About 15,000 visitors can at one time be quartered in the gay watering place, and consequently to pen up all the fashionable flock within the limits of so small a town, requires no little tact. During August, Saratoga is always full, crowded, squeezed.
Saratoga has the largest and most extensive hotels in the world. There are in all from thirty to forty, and in addition to them numerous public and private boarding-houses accommodate large numbers of guests.
Among the hotels, the gem of Saratoga, and one of the finest, if not the finest, hotel in this country is
Congress Hall.
CONGRESS HALL.
Extending from Spring to Congress street, with a front on Broadway of 416 feet, and reaching with its two mammoth wings 300 feet back, it is architecturally a perfect beauty. The rooms are large and elegant. The halls are ten feet wide, and broad, commodious stairways, with the finest elevator in the country, render every portion readily accessible. A front piazza, 20 feet wide and 240 feet in length, with numerous others within the grounds, and a promenade on the top of the hotel affording a charming view, contribute to render the house attractive. The dining halls, parlors, etc., are superb and ample, and everything about the house is on a scale of unequaled magnificence and grandeur.
The proprieters have endeavored to incorporate into this hotel everything that can afford comfort and pleasure, at whatever expense.
The cut of Congress Hall will give some idea of its outlines, but fails to do it justice. It must be seen to be appreciated, and when seen commands the unqualified admiration of the beholder. It was erected in 1868, by H.H. Hathorn, Esq., the proprietor of the old Congress Hall, and one of the most influential citizens of Saratoga.
The Grand Union Hotel.
This mammoth establishment is located on the west side of Broadway, and with its magnificent grounds embraces a space seven acres in extent, covering nearly an entire square. It is a splendid brick structure, with a street frontage of 1,364 feet. The office, parlor, dining room and dancing hall are unequaled for size, graceful architecture and splendid equipments and finish—the former exhibiting a lavish display of white and colored marbles, while a series of colonnades rise from the center to the dome. Within the capacious grounds are several elegant cottages, which are greatly sought for by the elite. A vertical railway, comprising the latest improvements, renders the six stories so easy of access as to be equally desirable to guests.
The capacity of this house is greater than that of any other in the world. Some idea of its immensity may be formed from the following statistics: Length of piazzas, one mile; halls, two miles; carpeting, twelve acres; marble tiling, one acre; number of rooms, eight hundred and twenty-four; doors, one thousand four hundred and seventy-four; windows, one thousand eight hundred and ninety one; the dining room is two hundred and fifty feet by fifty-three feet and twenty feet high, and will accommodate at one time 1,200 people.
Music on the lawn at nine in the morning and at three and a half in the afternoon. Hops every evening; balls on Tuesday evening.
During the present year this hotel has fallen into the hands of Messrs. Breslin, Gardner & Co., of the Gilsey House, N.Y., gentlemen who are unsurpassed as hotel managers.
Grand Central.
"The new hotel," erected by Dr. R. Hamilton and Mr. C.R. Brown, is located on Broadway, directly opposite Congress Park, occupying the ground swept over by the immense conflagration which consumed the Crescent, Park Place and other hotels last September. Untiring energy has been manifested in its construction, and it is without doubt one of the most perfect summer hotels in the world. It is a tasteful and elegant structure, adding very much to the beauty and attractiveness of Saratoga. The citizens may well be proud of it.
The exterior of the house is most imposing. It is five stories in height, with a French roof, and has a front of 340 feet on Broadway, and 200 feet on Congress street, and by a far-reaching wing in the rear incloses quite a little park.
The building contains 650 rooms, with bowling alleys and billiards, and twenty-two stores in the basement. It is built of brick, with iron trimmings. The dining room is 200 feet long. The other rooms are in suites with bath-room attached. All parts of the house communicate with the office through the medium of electricity. Everything is in the most modern and improved style, and with the latest improvements. Looking out upon the green vista of Congress Park and upon the interesting crowds of visitors who throng around the famous spring, affording from its windows and piazzas an ample view of the most fashionable part of Broadway, and embracing in its outlook the colonnades of the other large hotels, its location and surroundings are perfectly enchanting.
Although at the present writing the hotel has not been opened to the public, we learn that it is the purpose of the proprietors, Messrs. Hamilton & Brown, gentlemen of experience and enviable reputation as hotel managers, to conduct it on a very liberal scale.
The table will be made a special feature. Epicureans may rest assured that
"Whatever toothsome food or sprightly juice
On the green bosom of this earth are found,
Will be there displayed."
That it will be a popular and well patronized resort is unquestionable. In its elegant furniture the house surpasses all others, and it has the further advantage that every room has a spacious clothes press, and is supplied with hot and cold water.
The Clarendon.
Is patronized by a very aristocratic and select class of guests. Its location is very picturesque; and within its inclosure, magnificently circled by elms and covered with a superb pagoda, is the celebrated Washington spring.
CLARENDON HOTEL.
The Leland Spring, named in honor of the affable proprietor of the hotel, is also within the grounds.
The Everett House,
On South Broadway, a few steps beyond the Clarendon, is well patronized by a wealthy and cultivated class of guests. A very pleasant piazza surrounding the front of the house, and a pretty lawn and cottage in the grounds, are attractive features of this summer hotel. The house has a home-like appearance and a delightful location. Improvements and additions are now contemplated, to be completed before next season, which will render this one of the most beautiful summer hotels in America.
As our space is too limited to give each an individual notice, we present below an alphabetical list of all the hotels and their proprietors, good, bad and indifferent—several on the American plan, and some on no plan at all. "Pay your money and take your choice."
Josh Billings says a good hotel is a good stepmother. It is is not often that one has the opportunity to select his stepmother, but certainly it ought not to be impossible to make a good selection from this long
List of Hotels.
- Addison Hotel, Matilda street, Samson & Porter.
- Albemarle Hotel, Broadway, A.C. Levi.
- Albion House, Front street, Walter Balfour.
- American Hotel, Broadway, Bennett & McCaffrey.
- Broadway Hall, Broadway, J. Howland.
- Broadway House, Broadway, Wm. Wheelock.
- Cedar Bluff Hotel, Saratoga Lake, H.V. Myers.
- Circular Street House, Circular street, John Palmer.
- Clarendon Hotel, Broadway, C.E. Leland.
- Coleman House, Broadway, H.L. Murchin.
- Commercial Hotel, Church street, S.W. Smith & Co.
- Congress Hall, Broadway, Hathorn & Southgate.
- Continental Hotel, Washington street, Adams & Mann.
- Cottage Home, Broadway, Miss L. Burbanck.
- Drs. Strongs Institute, Circular street, S.S. & S.E. Strong.
- Elmwood Hall, Front street, O. Ford & Griswold.
- Empire Hotel, Front street, Wm. H. Baker.
- Exchange Hotel, Henry street.
- Everett House, South Broadway, B.V. Fraser.
- Franklin House, Church street, C.W. Salisbury.
- Glen Mitchel, North Broadway, C. Weeks Mitchel.
- Grand Central Hotel, Broadway, Hamilton & Brown.
- Grand Union Hotel, Broadway, Breslin, Gardner & Co.
- Holden House, Broadway, W.J. Riggs.
- Hotel Germania, Broadway, G. Schmidt.
- Green Mountain House, Washington St., Chaffee & Wooster.
- Huestis House, Broadway, J.L. Huestis.
- Lake House, Saratoga Lake, C.B. Moon.
- Lake Side House, Saratoga Lake, C.B. Moon, Jr.
- Manor House, South Broadway.
- Mansion House, Spring avenue near Excelsior Spring, Mrs. E.G. Chipman.
- Marvin House, Broadway, A. & D. Snyder.
- Merchants Hotel, Caroline St., cor. Henry, G.H. Burrows.
- Mount Pleasant House, Broadway, C.H. Tefft.
- National Hotel, Congress street, C. Weil.
- New Columbian Hotel, Broadway, Waugh & Co.
- New York Hotel, Lake avenue, K. Davis.
- Pitney House, Congress street, J. Pitney.
- Pavilion Hotel, Division street.
- St. James Hotel, Congress street, Van Vleck.
- Summer Resort, Franklin street.
- Spring Street House. Spring street, Wm. Carpenter.
- Temple Grove, Circular street, H.M. Dowd.
- Vermont House, Front street. B.V. Dyer.
- Washington Hall, Broadway, A.J. Starr.
- Wager House, South Broadway.
- Waverly House, Broadway, E.A. Duel.
- Western Hotel, Church street, cor. Lawrence, French & Co.
- Wilbur House, Washington street.
THE CONTINENTAL HOTEL.
THE WAVERLY HOUSE.
GRAND CENTRAL HOTEL,
Opposite Congress Park, opened July 12th, 1872
Temple Grove Seminary
Is beautifully situated in a grove in the eastern part of the village, on what was formerly called Temple Hill.
Rev. Chas. F. Dowd, A.M., a graduate of Yale College, is the principal.
The regular graduating course occupies a period of four years, and embraces many of the studies pursued in our colleges for young men, while every facility is afforded for the more modern and artistic accomplishments. The endowment is found in the fact that during the long summer vacation the building is opened as a summer resort.
The Climate
Of Saratoga is remarkably pleasant and salubrious. Mountain bulwarks protect it from wind and tempest. We doubt if there is any place in the world which can offer more attractions to the invalid. Those who visit Saratoga in the pursuit of health, will find a very pleasant home among cultivated people at the Institute of Drs. Strong, on Circular street.
We take pleasure in speaking of this house because it is unique in its character, and is one of the features of Saratoga. A guide book is not the place to discuss systems of medicine. Suffice it to say that the doctors, while regularly educated physicians, make use also of the varied resources of hydropathy, and of a wider range of remedial appliances than can be found in any similar institution on the globe.
TEMPLE GROVE SEMINARY.
It is worth the while of every tourist in Saratoga to visit the elegant Institute, and examine its Vacuum Cure and Movement Cure, and its superb bath-rooms and enjoy the luxury of a Turkish or Russian bath. The doctors are very courteous, and visitors will find a pleasant reception.
The Institute is open throughout the year. As a summer home for people in health, it fully meets the wants of those desiring first class accommodations. There is no appearance of invalidism about the house, and its remedial character in no respect diminishes its attractions. Its table is superior, and its patrons are the religious aristocracy of the land.
The Churches
Are commodious and built with special reference to the visiting population. They are ministered to by resident pastors of culture and repute, and their pulpits are filled during the season by distinguished divines from all sections of the country.
The Methodist Society have the most elegant and conveniently located edifice. It was dedicated the present year, and is situated on the north side of Washington street, just above the Grand Union. It is built of brick with sandstone trimmings, and cost $116,000. Rev. J.M. King is the pastor. Residence Phila street.
The Episcopal church is nearly opposite the Methodist, a recent edifice of stone most pleasing in its architecture. Rev. Dr. Camp is the rector.
The Presbyterian church is a large brick structure, some little distance up Broadway, and beyond the new Town Hall. Rev. Mr. Newman, pastor.
The Baptist church is a brick edifice on Washington street, near the railroad. Rev. E.A. Wood, pastor.
The Congregational church is directly over the Post Office, on Phila street. Rev. N.F. Rowland, pastor.
TEMPLE GROVE SEMINARY—REAR VIEW.
The Catholic church occupies a commanding and agreeable location upon South Broadway, just beyond the Clarendon Hotel.
The Second Presbyterian church meets in Newland Chapel on Spring street, near Temple Grove Seminary. Rev J.N. Crocker, pastor.
The Free Methodist chapel is on Regent street.
A list of the services, and the hours of holding them, is published every Saturday in the daily Saratogian. The Saratogian is the "old established" paper, and seems to be as firm in its foundation as the rock from which the Saratoga waters issue. Eli Perkins informs us that Saratoga was named from the Saratogian. Col. Ritchie is one of the spiciest editors to be found.
The hall and reading-room of
The Y.M.C.A.
Are located on Phila street, nearly opposite the Post-Office. Daily prayer meetings are held from 10 to 11 a.m.
Real Estate,
While not exorbitant, as at Newport and other watering places, the prices of real estate in Saratoga, as might be expected, are somewhat higher than usually reign in villages of its size. The value of real estate is enhanced very much yearly; the average rise, for several years, has been about ten per cent per annum. The size of the village and the number of the resident population—now about 9,000—is constantly increasing. Numerous and costly dwellings are being erected on almost every street. The village thrives, and it may be confidently hoped that, with its numerous and peculiar attractions, this beautiful valley will ere long become the center of a vast population. Educational institutions and manufacturing interests should flourish here.
M.E. CHURCH, SARATOGA.
There is a great demand for tasteful cottages for summer residents.
As a permanent home, Saratoga is delightful and attractive. The climate is excellent. The home society is very pleasant, and uncorrupted by the flash and glitter of the summer carnival.
At one portion of the year the most distinguished, cultivated and wealthy of our own country are gathered here—and sight-seeing can be done at home and on our own door-steps. The many blessings which follow in the train of wealth and culture are found here. Travelers from other climes who visit our country seldom return until they have drank from these celebrated fountains. An opportunity is afforded in the various pulpits of the village to listen to the most eloquent preachers of the day. The schools are good, and presided over by persons of skill and experience.
Those of our readers who desire more particular information in regard to real estate and permanent or transient homes in Saratoga, are referred to Messrs. Wm. M. Searing & Son, of Ainsworth's block.
Hack Fares.
Saratoga cannot be called extortionate. Unlike Niagara, its prices are not exorbitant. Most people like to drive a fast horse, and they can do so very reasonably here. A nice single team can be obtained a whole afternoon for only $3, and a nobby carriage and coachman will carry a party to the Lake and back for from $3 to $6, at any time during the season. Hack fare, in the village, is 50 cents for each passenger; baggage, 25 cents each piece. An elegant turnout, including coachman, can be leased by the month for $75, and this includes the exclusive use. Excellent accommodations for those who bring their own teams can be obtained for from $8 to $10 per week for each horse. Over three thousand private carriages are here every summer.
DRS. STRONG'S INSTITUTE, SARATOGA.
Drives and Walks.
The most fashionable drive is the new Boulevard to the Lake. Until recently there have been few attractions beside the gay and brilliant procession of carriages with their fair occupants and superb horses.
The drive is four miles in length, with a row of trees on each side and one in the middle. Carriages pass down on one side and return on the other.
No sooner have we turned by the Congress Spring than we are in a long level reach of plains, dotted here and there with trees of pine and fir, with a few distant hills of the Green Mountains rolling along the horizon. It is a city gala at the hotel, but the five minutes were magical, and, among the trees and rural scenes upon the road, we remember the city and its life as a winter's dream. The vivid and sudden contrast of this little drive with the hotel is one of the pleasantest points of Saratoga life. In the excitement of the day it is like stepping out, on a summer's evening, from the glaring ball-room upon the cool and still piazza.
Near the outlet of the lake, on a bluff fifty feet above the surface of the water, is
Moon's Lake House,
One of the features of Saratoga. There is a row of carriages at the sheds—a select party is dining upon those choice trout, black bass and young woodcock. The game dinners are good, the prices are high, and the fried potatoes are noted all over the world. They have never been successfully imitated. Are done up in papers and sold like confectionery. The gayly dressed ladies indulge in beatific expressives as they feast upon them.
DINING ROOM GRAND UNION.
A capital story is told of Moon, the proprietor—indeed, he tells it "himself." A few months after one of his "seasons" had closed he chanced to be in Boston, where he hired a horse and buggy to drive out to Chelsea. When he returned and called for his bill, the livery stable keeper charged him about six times the usual price; and when an explanation of such an extraordinary charge was demanded, replied, "Mr. Moon. I presume you do not recognize me, but last summer I took dinner at your Lake House." "Say not another word about it, my good fellow," responded Moon in his turn, "here is your money."
Mr. Moon always has something nice expressly for you. When his liability to loss in so doing is considered, his prices will not appear so exorbitant.
Those who with Prior,
"Charmed with rural beauty
Chase fleeting pleasure through the maze of life,"
will be pleased with
Saratoga Lake.
It has nine miles of length and two miles and a half of breadth. Many and varied scenes of interest and grandeur occur within this broad range of water and shore. The whole lake is replete with quiet and gentle beauty, striking the beholder rather with admiration than astonishment.
Boating and sailing may be enjoyed upon its waters, and a small steamer, plying from point to point, is at the command of pleasure parties.
Formerly an abundance of trout was found here, and shad and herring were among the annual visitors; but the lake is now filled with the black or Oswego bass, pickerel, muscalonge and perch.
But Saratoga Lake is not wholly devoted to the sportsman, or to the frivolities of fashionable butterflies. The beautiful and familiar hymn commencing—
"From whence doth this union arise,
That hatred is conquer'd by love?
It fastens our souls in such ties,
That nature and time can't remove,"
was composed and sang first, upon the placid waters of this lake, by Dr. Baldwin, of Boston, and a party of clerical friends.
That charming author, N.P. Willis, relates in his own charming style the following tradition of Saratoga Lake:
"There is," he says, "an Indian superstition attached to this lake, which probably has its source in its remarkable loneliness and tranquility. The Mohawks believed that its stillness was sacred to the Great Spirit, and that if a human voice uttered a sound upon its waters, the canoe of the offender would instantly sink. A story is told of an Englishwoman, in the early days of the first settlers, who had occasion to cross this lake with a party of Indians, who, before embarking, warned her most impressively of the spell. It was a silent, breathless day, and the canoe shot over the smooth surface of the lake like an arrow. About a mile from the shore, near the center of the lake, the woman, willing to convince the savages of the weakness of their superstition, uttered a loud cry. The countenances of the Indians fell instantly to the deepest gloom. After a moment's pause, however, they redoubled their exertions, and in frowning silence drove the light bark like an arrow over the waters. They reached the shore in safety, and drew up the canoe, and the woman rallied the chief on his credulity. 'The Great Spirit is merciful,' answered the scornful Mohawk, 'He knows that a white woman cannot hold her tongue.'"
BALL ROOM GRAND UNION.
Chapman's Hill
Is a mile beyond the Lake House, and one hundred and eighty feet above the level of the lake. A charming view is afforded. Immediately below, the lake presents a mirrored surface of several square miles, while the meadows and table lands on its western shore may be traced with all their simple beauty until they merge into the Kayaderosseras range of mountains.
Wagman's Hill,
Which is about three miles beyond, affords a still more extended view. This hill is two hundred and forty feet above the lake.
Hagerty Hill,
Six miles north of the village, toward Luzerne, brings to view a fine landscape.
But the most extended view and the boldest landscape may be seen from
Wearing Hill,
On the Mount Pleasant road, and about fifteen miles from Saratoga Springs. Saratoga, Ballston, Schenectady, Waterford, Mechanicville, Schuylerville, Saratoga Lake, Round Lake, etc., by the aid of a glass, can all be discerned from this hill.
Lake Lovely
Is the euphonious name of an interesting little sheet of water not far from the village on the Boulevard to Saratoga Lake. Though not of very great extent, it has many points of considerable attraction, one of which is a glen on the eastern bank of the lake, which forms an echo, said to be almost as distinct and powerful as the celebrated one in the ruined bastion of the old French fortress at Crown Point.
Stiles' Hill,
An interesting locality, revealing a varied landscape, along the Hudson and Mohawk rivers, may be reached in a drive of a few miles along the base of the Palmerton Mountain.
Corinth Falls,
A bold cataract in the Upper Hudson, is some fifteen miles from Saratoga, and a mile from Jessup's Landing, on the Adirondack Railway.
Luzerne,
A charming hamlet at the confluence of the Hudson and Sacandaga, is twenty miles from Saratoga. It may be reached by a carriage road or the Adirondack Railway. Lake Luzerne, a beautiful sheet of water, on the shore of which the village is situated, affords excellent opportunities for fishing and boating. There are two excellent hotels—Rockwell's and the Wayside. The latter has numerous cottages attached for summer residents. It is owned by B.C. Butler, Esq., well known as the author of an interesting History of Lake George and Lake Champlain, and other works.
Lake George
Is about thirty miles from Saratoga by carriage road. The Adirondack Railway, and a stage ride of nine miles, is the pleasantest and most convenient route. Travelers can return the same day, if necessary.
There are other and shorter drives in Saratoga, which are very attractive. Spring Avenue, leading to the Excelsior and Sulphur springs and returning by Lake Avenue, is being laid out and will make a beautiful drive.
The road to Ballston and the Spouting Springs has been recently improved, and is a popular resort.
CONGRESS PARK.
DRAWING ROOM GRAND UNION.
The entire length of Broadway is a magnificent drive and affords an interesting and picturesque ride of some five minutes. About a mile north of Congress Hall the half-mile track and handsome grounds of Glen Mitchel are located. The Saratoga County Agricultural Society have their buildings here. The track is open to all who wish, both pedestrians and carriages. At the base of a steep bluff, shaded with numerous trees, and directly facing the race-track, is the Glen Mitchel hotel. The grounds are maintained at great expense by the proprietors of the hotel, and when this and the short season of patronage is regarded, the prices for ordinary refreshments will not be considered as extraordinary as they might otherwise seem. The drive may be extended by turning to the east and driving round a small lake—Excelsior—and past the water-works, returning by Spring Avenue.
The walk through the woods to Excelsior Spring is by far the most beautiful in Saratoga. To reach the grove, pedestrians and carriages will pass along Lake Avenue a little past Circular street, when a small sign will be found pointing the way to the "Walk to Excelsior Spring." No tourist should fail to visit this place. A pleasant hour may be spent in the woods, after a stroll through which, the delicious water of the Excelsior will be refreshing indeed.
Congress Park
Is the gem of Saratoga. It consists of a small hill in the shape of a horseshoe, covered with handsome trees, and laid out in smooth walks encircling the low ground which surrounds the spring. The park is the property of the Congress and Empire Spring Co., who generously keep it in perfect repair, and open to the public.
UNION HOTEL AND GROUNDS.
Gridley's Trout Ponds.
Those who are fond of "speckled beauties," and would like to obtain a fine mess without encountering the swarms of mosquitoes, gnats and sand flies that usually infest the region where the trout may be taken, should visit Gridley's. "Old Gridley," as he is familiarly called, formerly kept the Pavilion, near the depot. Some three or four years since he conceived the idea of starting a fish propagating establishment. His place is located in a beautiful little ravine, about one mile and a half from Congress Spring and just beyond the race-course. There may be seen myriads of speckled trout in a succession of small ponds situated along down the ravine, one below the other, supplied with water of the brilliancy of a crystal, gushing from the banks. It is a well known fact that the chief reason for this species of fish being so scarce, is because of their devouring each other, or, in other words, "big fish eating up little fish." Hence, Mr. Gridley, as well as other propagators, is obliged to separate them as to age and size—one-year olds in one pond, two-year olds in another, and so on down.
Visitors are very cordially received by Mr. G., and provided with fishing tackle, etc—and sometimes a bottle of Rhine wine gratis—and are duly informed that his prices are $1 per pound—that is, for every pound of fish caught, visitors can pay $1. The fish may be seen tantalizingly sporting and jumping out of the water two or three thousand at a time. For any one who contemplates indulging in the sport, and is willing to pay for it, this is the place to come.
The Saratoga Battle Ground.
A visit to the scene of the great battle of Saratoga, in October, 1777, which ended in the surrender of the British Army, under Burgoyne, to the Americans, under Gates, will occupy a pleasant though somewhat long day's excursion. The battle was fought upon the elevated lands at Bemis Heights two miles from the Hudson, in the town of Stillwater, about 15 miles from Saratoga Springs.
"SET UP A CENT"—INDIAN CAMP.
Visitors may obtain all desired information respecting the precise localities of the struggle from Cicerones on the spot.
The Surrender Ground,
The scene of the capitulation a few weeks subsequent to the battle, is a few miles further up the river.
The Village Cemetery,
In places that can boast but few objects of interest, is usually one of the chief places of resort. In Saratoga there are so many "show places" and peculiar attractions, that the cemetery visitors are limited principally to the resident population, and those who arm in arm, or hand in hand, stroll through its meandering paths, or while away their hours in its shady seats nurturing the tender passion.
The old cemetery is near the Empire Spring. The village cemetery proper is found east and south of Congress Park. In both may be found some curious inscriptions, and from the latter we transcribe the following additions to cemetery literature, with all respect for those whose memories are thus enshrined:
"My Engine is now cold and still,
No water doth her boiler fill,
The wood affords its flames no more,
My days of usefulness are o'er."
"Rest here thou early call'd, in peace,
'Till Jesus grant a sweet release."
"There's not an hour
Of day or dreaming nights but I am with thee,
And not a flower that sleeps beneath the moon
But in its hues or fragrance tells a tale of thee."
What seemed to us perhaps the most touching inscription, we found upon a stone bearing the date of 1792:
"This stone is raised by a daughter and only child, as a token of respect
For a mother whom she was too young to know, but whose virtues
She humbly desires to imitate."
The Verd-Antique Marble Works.
Among the outside diversions which every tourist, and especially every scientist, should visit is the steam mills of the Adirondack Verd-Antique Marble Co. The mills are situated in this village near the freight depot, though the quarries are in Thurman, on the Adirondack railroad. A very interesting peculiarity of this marble—which is quite beautiful—is, that it contains minute fossils of the earliest forms of existence known to scientific men—the Eozoön Canadense. The marble is capable of a high polish, and makes beautiful ornaments.
Amusements.
Some one has said that the amusements of Saratoga life are dancing and drinking, the one exercise being the Omega as the other is the Alpha of its butterfly life. Saratoga, however, abounds in amusements. There are the races at the race-course and on the lake; there are balls and hops every night; there are the Indians and the Circular railway, and drives in all directions; there are select parties and music by the bands, and shopping, and concerts, and, at the religious houses, charades and tableaux, and prayer meetings; and what more could be asked?
Besides all these,
Josh Billings
says that, "after going to Long Branch and frolicking in the water, he relishes going to Saratoga and letting the water frolic in him."
A correspondent gives the following
Routine for a Lady.
Rise and dress; go down to the spring; drink to the music of the band; walk around the park—bow to gentlemen; chat a little; drink again; breakfast; see who comes in on the train; take a siesta; walk in the parlor; bow to gentlemen; have a little small talk with gentlemen; have some gossip with ladies; dress for dinner; take dinner an hour and a half; sit in the grounds and hear the music of the band; ride to the lake; see who comes by the evening train; dress for tea; get tea; dress for the hop; attend the hop; chat awhile in the parlors, and listen to a song from some guest; go to bed. Varied by croquet, ladies' bowling alley, Indian camp, the mineral springs, grand balls twice a week, concerts, etc., and the races.
Balls.
The three largest hotels have elegant ball-rooms, where hops take place every evening. Balls are held every week at each of the houses. Upon the latter occasion, the dressing becomes a matter of life and death, and explains why such numbers of those traveling arks known as "Saratoga trunks" are docked at the station every summer.
Balls are reported in the papers far and near, and the anxiety of some to secure a good report of their costume is amusing. Brown's dismay at the bills is somewhat appeased as he reads in the morning paper, "Miss Brown, of ——, a charming graceful blonde, was attired in a rich white corded silk, long train, with ruffles of the same, overdress of pink gros grain, looped en panier, corsage low, decollette, with satin bows and point lace; hair a la Pompadour, with curls on white feathers, pearls and diamonds. She was much admired. Miss Brown is the accomplished daughter of Mr. Brown, one of the leading citizens of the Metropolis."
The hops are free to all the guests. An admission of $1 is customary at the balls, and choice refreshments are served. Upon ball nights, the tasteful iron bridge which connects Congress Hall with its ball-room, and the grounds of the Grand Union, are illuminated by colored lights, presenting a fairy-like scene of bewildering beauty. Upon these occasions a large proportion of the population, both exotic and native, come forth as upon a festal day.
The Races
Occur the middle of July, and the second week in August, and are under the charge of the Saratoga Racing Association.
The race-course is about a mile from Congress Spring. It was laid out in 1866, by C.H. Ballard, an accomplished surveyor, and is unsurpassed, if equaled, by any race-course in America, not excepting the famous Fashion course on Long Island. The swiftest and most noted racers in the Union are brought here, and many of the most remarkable races known to sportsmen have occurred on these grounds.
Indian Camp.
A few steps from Congress Spring, directly past the Saratoga Club-House, leads you to a wicket gate marked "Circular, Railway and, Indian, Camp."
The Indians are not such as figure conspicuously in the early annals of our country and in our favorite romances—as Eli Perkins says—"far different!" They are simply a Canadian Gypsy band, part low French and part low Indian blood. They come here annually with an eye to business, and open their weird camp to the public simply as a speculation, offering for sale the various trinkets to which their labor is directed.
The white tents glistening among the green hemlocks, and the rustic lodges displaying the gayly decorated bow and quiver, make a picture somewhat attractive; but the Indians themselves are dirty and homely, and far from inviting in their appearance. The slim, blackeyed, barefooted boys, who pester you with petitions to "set up a cent," as a mark for their arrows, have a sort of Gypsy picturesqueness, however; and as one walks down the little street between the huts—half tent and half house—he may get an occasional glimpse of a pappoose swinging in a hammock, and thank his stars for even such a fractional view of the pristine life.
The Circular Railway
Is connected with the Indian Camp. An opportunity is here afforded for enthusiasts and very gallant gentlemen to test their strength and patience, by propelling themselves and friends round the circle in one of the cars. The recreation requires the expenditure of no little strength, and is only accomplished by the sweat of some one's brow, but it is preferable, doubtless, to "swinging round the circle."
Within a few feet of the Circular Railway is a spring of pure soft water. The water is quite drinkable, and is esteemed unusually pure and wholesome. The well water of the town is good, and the water from Excelsior Lake, which has lately been introduced throughout the village by the Holly system, is considered superior.
Shopping.
Abundant opportunity is afforded those who have occasion to visit emporiums of art and fashion on shopping designs intent. The flashing establishments under the large hotels, as well as several others in the village, cater entirely to the fashionable visitor. Everything desirable in the way of laces, feathers, diamonds and ornaments, and elegant dress goods are obtainable. It is the custom of many of the fashionable merchants and modistes of New York to open here during the summer, branch establishments for the sale of their specialities. There are numerous resident stores also, which would not disgrace New York or Boston; among these the house of H. Van Deusen, on Broadway and Phila street, near the Post-Office, takes the lead. During the warm season, the Saratoga Broadway glitters with the brilliant display in shop windows, and the gorgeous exhibition of goods upon the sidewalks.
Evening.
It is only in the evening that Saratoga is in full bloom. When—
"—— night throughout the gelid air,
Veils with her sable wings the solar glare;
When modest Cynthia clad in silver light
Expands her beauty on the brow of night,
Sheds her soft beams upon the mountain side,
Peeps through the wood and quivers on the tide,"
then faces light up with the gas lamps. The parlors begin to fill with elegantly attired ladies, the piazzas are thronged with chatty and sociable gentlemen, and the streets are crowded, far more than they are in the daytime, by pleasure strollers of either sex in elegant array. The ball-room becomes radiant with costly chandeliers whose effulgence is reflected by diamonds of the first water.
One dark evening, at the height of last season, in the midst of the preparations for a brilliant ball, the gas which supplies the whole village became suddenly exhausted. Candles were the only resource, and there was by some mischance a limited supply of these. Bottles were improvised for candlesticks, and stationed in the corners and on the pianos of the massive parlors, rendering the scene grotesque and ludicrous in the extreme, while the closer nestling of lovers and the solemn stillness reigning on every hand gave sublimity to the picture. The poet Saxe happened to be among the guests at Congress Hall, and borrowed a candle from a pretty young lady. The next morning she found under her door the following beautiful lines:
"You gave me a candle; I give you my thanks,
And add, as a compliment justly your due,
There is not a girl in these feminine ranks
Who could, if she would, hold a candle to you."
Verily "darkness brings the stars to view." On this occasion there was no little "sparking," and though the flames of the gas lamps gave no light, love's flame burned brighter than ever.
Saratoga in Winter.
Saratoga is not a "Country where the leaves never fall, and the eternal day is summer-time." As the gorgeous autumnal sunsets of October crown the golden-capped, or no longer verdant forests, the summer beauties prepare to return to their winter homes. The falling leaves in this vicinity are wondrously beautiful, and the cool sunsets will richly reward those who tarry to behold them; but "the season" is over, and the little town becomes almost a deserted village.
"Brightly, sweet Summer, brightly,
Thine hours have floated by."
A shade of melancholy cannot but possess those who remain after the last polka is polked, the last light in the last ball-room is extinguished, and the summer ended. At length the railway engine whistles at long intervals; the mail-bags lose their plethora; the parish preachers, shorn of occasional help, knuckle to new sermons; the servants disperse; the head waiter retires to private life, and the dipper-boy disappears in the shades of the pine forests; the Indians pack up their duds, and, like the Arab, silently steal away; while the landlords retire within their sanctums to count over their hard-earned dollars.
After a time the village seems to become accustomed to the "new departure," and local politics, Tammany rings and frauds, and committees of forty agitate the public breast, until Spring returns and Saratoga blossoms again with new beauty.
Romance.
Although Saratoga is preëminently a fashionable resort, and the city of vanity fair, it is nevertheless Cupid's summer-home; and lovers here acknowledge the first throbbings of that passion of bright hopes, and too many sad realities—love. The complaint is always heard that "fish don't bite this season;" but autumn comes, the butterflies return home, and then it is found that a goodly number have been caught. Those not matrimonially inclined should know that a sojourn at a Spa is attended with considerable danger.
Saratoga Society.
The poet says of Saratoga life:
"Saratoga society,
What endless variety!
What pinks of propriety!
What gems of sobriety!
What garrulous old folks,
What shy folks and bold folks,
And warm folks and cold folks!
Such curious dressing,
And tender caressing,
(Of course that is guessing.)
Such sharp Yankee Doodles,
And dandified noodles,
And other pet poodles!
Such very loud patterns,
(Worn often by slatterns!)
Such strait necks, and bow necks,
Such dark necks and snow necks,
And high necks and low necks!
With this sort and that sort,
The lean sort and fat sort,
The bright and the flat sort—
Saratoga is crammed full,
And rammed full, and jammed full," etc.
Conclusion.
But while we laugh at Saratoga, its dancing, dressing and flirtation, it is yet not without its lessons for an observing eye.
"Here the heart
May give a useful lesson to the head,
And Learning wiser grow without his books."
It is not all frivolity. Like every aspect of life, and like most persons, it is a hint and suggestion of something high and poetic. It is an oasis of repose in the desert of our American hurry. It is a perpetual festival.
Here we step out of the worn and weary ruts of city society, and mingle in a broad field of varied acquaintance. Here we may scent the fairest flowers of the South, and behold the beauty of our Northern climes. Here party distinctions and local rivalries are forgotten. Here, too, men mingle and learn from contact and sympathy, a sweeter temper and a more catholic consideration, so that the summer flower we went to wreath may prove not the garland of an hour, but a firmly linked chain in our American Union.
CLOSE OF THE SEASON AT SARATOGA
APPENDIX TO PART I.
When the previous forms went to press, we were unable to give any satisfactory and reliable statement of the Spouting Springs recently discovered in the vicinity of the Geyser. We present, below, such information as we are able to give in regard to them at this time, hoping to render our description more complete in future editions of this work.
THE TRITON SPRING.
This recently discovered Spouting Spring is located on the north side of the road near the Geyser. The vein was struck in January of the present year. The depth of the well is about 150 feet. The water spouts about fifteen feet above the surface. Present appearances seem to indicate that the spring is chalybeate, though the mineral ingredients are not large. We are unadvised in reference to the plans regarding it. Messrs. Verbeck and Gilbert are the proprietors.
THE ESMOND AND WRIGHT SPRING
Is located in the ramble between the railroad and the Geyser Spring, and near the Ellis Spring.
On the 17th of June of the present year, at almost the identical hour in which Mr. Gilmore opened his Peace Jubilee, a new mineral fountain—a spouting spring—gushed forth from its deep origin in mother earth to rejuvenate and bless mankind. The gas is so abundant that if the orifice of the tube is closed for a few moments sufficient force will accumulate to blow a steam whistle. It has not been christened at present. We suggest that it be called the "Gilmore Spring." The well is over a hundred feet deep, and the water rises about thirty feet above the surface. The water is strongly saline, and will probably be classed among the cathartic waters. It bears a strong resemblance to the celebrated Geyser. The proprietors inform me that several of their acquaintances have already experienced benefit from this water. The spring promises to be valuable. The public will look with interest to know into whose management the spring passes, as the proprietors are plain farmers and intend to commit the spring to more experienced hands, who will introduce it to the public favor. A neat bottling house and a tasteful colonnade are already being constructed. Prof. Chandler will probably make the analysis at an early date.
THE DUELL SPRING.
The spring owned by Mr. Duell, of the Waverly House, is beyond the Geyser, and on the margin of the pond. We are unable to present reliable information in regard to this spring, as it has just been discovered by Mr. Jesse Button.
The mother of all these spouting wells—the Geyser Spring—is rearing quite a family of interesting children. We have heard it predicted that the time is not very distant when every citizen of Saratoga will have a mineral fountain in his door-yard. At present no successful efforts have been made to obtain a spouting spring in the village. We know of no reason to render success impossible or improbable. Certainly, "'tis a consummation devoutly to be wished," and we should be glad to see a fair trial of the experiment.