The Country Housewife and Lady's Director in the Management of a House, and the Delights and Profits of a Farm

by Richard Bradley

PART II.

Since I have publish'd the Receipts I gathered together, with regard to the several Preparations of the Products of a Farm, for the Table; entitled, The Lady's Monthly Director, &c. (now in its sixth Edition:) I have received a great number of Letters relating to many Improvements that may be made to it, and am desired to publish them, in order to render my first Volume more compleat. And, as I find they will be of public Use, I shall begin with one concerning the Preservation of Flesh, Fowls and Fish from Putrefaction, or Stinking; which is too often the Case, in Summer-time, when it is rare to find any sweet Morsels, although they have undergone the Discipline of Salting. As for the common Notion, that Women cannot lay Meat in Salt, equally with success, at all Times, it is false; it is the Manner of doing it, and not the state of the Women who handle it, that makes it right; there must be a right way of Management to preserve it, and render it fit for the Palate, as the following Letter informs us.

To Mr. Bradley.

Sir,

I have not only read your Book call'd, The Lady's Monthly Director, but have tasted many elegant Dishes of Meat, ordered by the Receipts in it; but I think, as you are a philosophical Gentleman, you should have taken a little more Notice of the preservation of Flesh from Putrefaction: For in many places I have set down to a Dinner which has sent me out of the Room by the very smell of it; even, though I am so much of the French Taste, that I can bear the Fumette. The Husband, in this Case, has blamed his Wife; and the Wife has taken the opportunity of whispering to her Husband, that the Maid was not in right Sorts when she salted the Meat: but I am sure, I shall set you to rights in that Point.

I have taken pains in my Family, which consists of thirty Persons, to have my Wife order the Experiment to be made, and I am satisfied from her Arguments, that there is nothing in the Notion above. But now to the purpose. Let your Flesh-Meat be fresh, and take all the bleeding Arteries from it; then sprinkle it with common Salt, and let it lie in the Air for twelve Hours; but salt the Places, where the Arteries were, more particularly: then wipe your Meat dry, and make some Salt very hot, over the Fire, then rub in the Salt very well, and lay the Pieces of salted Meat one upon another, and it will keep for several Months.

Or with common Salt, rub the several Pieces of Meat briskly with it, after the Blood is out, and especially in the hollow Places lay Salt enough. So will you be sure to have your Meat sweet, either Beef or Pork.

To send Venison Sweet in hot Weather.

Give it a little Salt, and have the Haunches parted, taking out the Marrow and all the Veins, as they are called, that bleed; and then wipe all of it quite dry after you have wash'd it with Vinegar, and then powder it with Pepper, and in an open Basket send it up to London.

Sometimes Venison (meaning a Buck) comes up to London, not fit for the Table; to prevent which, order the Keeper, when he has killed it, to strew three or four Pounds of Pepper, beaten fine, upon it; and especially upon the Neck Parts of the Sides, after he has wash'd them with Vinegar and dried them well.

But if it stinks, when you receive it, wash it with Vinegar, and dry it, then pepper it and wrap it in a dry Cloth, bury it in the Ground, three foot deep at least, and in sixteen Hours it will be sweet, fit for eating; then wash off the Pepper with Vinegar, and dry it with a Cloth, and hang it where the cool Air may pass, and the blue Flies cannot come at it. Query. Is it not strange, that we see daily the Limbs of Horses hung up in Trees, and they do not stink, but remain good a long while fit for Dogs Meat? If any one will say, that Dogs all delight to eat Carrion, I must deny that; but that every sort of Dog will roll himself in Carrion, when he can find it, is certain.

To send Partridges a long way in hot Weather.

When you have killed your Partridges, take out the Crop, and the Artery which bleeds in the Neck, then fill the Place with Pepper; and the Mouths of the Fowls should be fill'd with the same, for these Parts take a taint sooner than the rest; the Vent too, ought to be taken care of, and open'd, and filled with Pepper, beaten grossly. N.B. This Pepper may be always wash'd away without leaving any Season or Flavour behind it, and is a certain Antidote against Corruption. So the same may be done with Pheasants, and you should likewise leave on their Feathers.

To keep an Hare a long Time.

As soon as 'tis kill'd and discharged of its Entrails, take care that all the Blood be dried away with Cloths about the Liver, for there it is apt to settle, then dust the Liver well with Pepper; and fill the Body with Nettles, or dry Moss, for these will not raise a ferment as Hay and Straw will do, when they come to be wet; then fill the Mouth with Pepper, and it will keep a long time.

To keep Wild-Ducks fresh.

Draw them, and fill the Body with red Sage, after the inside is well pepper'd; and likewise pepper the inside of the Mouth, leave on the Feathers. A Goose may be serv'd the same way.

But if they be too long kept, or through want of Care, they should receive a taint; then, when they are pull'd, wash the Inside very well, with Vinegar and Water, and dry it well with a Cloth; and scrape away, if need be, what are call'd the Kidneys; then strew the Inside afresh with Pepper, and hang them up for an Hour or two, where the Air may pass through them.

Some in such a case will put an Onion into the Body, which does very well towards restoring it to a freshness; then wash out all, and prepare it for the Spit.

Helps towards the Preservation of Fish.

If you would keep Fish long, kill them as soon as they are out of the Water, and take out their Gills; then fill their Heads as much as may be, with Pepper, and wipe them very dry, and pack them in dry Wheat-Straw.

T. R.

To make Wine of White Elder-berries, like Cyprus Wine from Mrs. Warburton of Cheshire.

To nine Gallons of Water, put nine Quarts of the Juice of White Elder berries, which has been pressed gently from the Berries, with the Hand, and passed thro' a Sieve, without bruising the Kernels of the Berries; add to every Gallon of Liquor three Pounds of Lisbon Sugar, and to the whole Quantity put an Ounce and a half of Ginger, sliced, and three quarters of an Ounce of Cloves; then boil this near an Hour, taking off the Scum, as it rises, and pour the whole to cool, in an open Tub, and work it with Ale-Yeast, spread upon a Toast of white Bread, for three Days, and then tun it into a Vessel that will just hold it; adding about a Pound and a half of Raisins of the Sun split, to lie in the Liquor till we draw it off, which should not be till the Wine is fine, which you will find about January. This Wine is so like the fine rich Wine brought from Cyprus, in its Colour and Flavour, that it has deceiv'd the best Judges, These Berries are ripe in August, and may be had at the Ivy-House at Hoxton.

To make Wine of Black Elder-berries, which is equal to the best Hermitage Claret; from Henry Marsh, Esq. of Hammersmith.

Take nine Gallons of Spring Water, and half a Bushel of Elder-berries, pick'd clean from the Stalks; boil these till the Berries begin to dimple, then gently strain off the Liquor, and to every Gallon of it put two Pounds of good Lisbon Sugar, and boil it an Hour; then let it stand to cool, in an open Tub, for if it was to cool in the Copper, or Brass Kettle, it was boil'd in, the Liquor would be ill-tasted. When it is almost cool, spread some Ale-Yeast upon a Toast of White Bread, and put it into the Liquor, to work three Days in the open Tub, stirring the Liquor once or twice a Day, and then tun it in a Vessel of a right size, to hold it: At the same time add to every Gallon one pound of Raisins of the Sun whole, and let them lie in the Cask till the Wine is drawn off.

Such a small quantity of Wine, as is here directed, will be fit to bottle the January next after it is made, but larger Casks should not be drawn off till March or April.

A Receipt from Barbadoes, to make Rum; which proves very good.

In Barbadoes the Rum is made of the Scum and Offal of the Sugar, of which they put one ninth part, or eighth part, to common Water, about eighteen Gallons, all together, in a wooden open Vessel or Tub; cover this with dry Leaves of Palm, or for want of them, with the Leaves of Platanus or the Leaves of Fern in England, or the Parts or Leaves which Flagg-Brooms are made of. Let this remain for nine Days, till it changes of a clean yellow Colour, and it will be then fit to distil; then put it into an Alembic, and you will have what we call the Low-Wines. A Day or two after distil it again, and in the Cap of the Still, hang a small muslin Bag of sweet Fennel-Seeds, and the Spirit will be of a fine Flavour. Some will use Anniseed in the Bag, and some use a little Musk with the sweet Fennel Seeds, or else distil the Spirit twice, viz., once with the sweet Fennel-Seeds, and the next with a little Musk.

N.B. The wooden Vessels, or open Tubs, must not be made of any Wood that is unwholesome, or sweet-scented; such as Deal, Firr, or Manchineel.

In England, Treacle may be used with equal Success, and is cheap enough to get a good livelihood; as appears by the several Ways mention'd above, that have been privately experienced.

To make Citron-Water, from Barbadoes.

Take Citron, or Lemon Flowers, for the word Citron in French signifies Lemon; though we generally in England esteem the large Lemons to be Citrons, and the middle-siz'd we call Lemons, and the smallest of that race is call'd the Lime. In these, however, there are as many varieties as we have in Apples, one is finer flavour'd than the other. The Oranges too are of as many different Sorts, the Rind of one pleasanter than the other, and the Juice likewise, and so are the Flowers various in their Smells, some more odorous than others; yet all these are used indifferently, according to the Kinds that happen to grow upon the several Estates, where the Citron-Water is made, and this is the Reason why one Sort is better than another; and therefore, those who have the most pleasant Sorts, make the best Waters of this Kind.

We must take, either of Citron, Lemon, or Orange-Flowers, four Ounces to a Gallon of clean Spirit, or French-Brandy; put these in the Spirits, with two Pounds of white Sugar-Candy, beaten fine: then take of the best Citron-Peels, or Lemon-Peels, six Ounces, and let them steep in the Spirits till the Liquor is strong enough of every Ingredient; and when that is done, pour it off, through a Sieve. And in some places they put about half a Drachm of Musk to six Gallons of Liquor; and this has been sold for sixteen Shillings the Quart in London.

To make fine Vinegar.

There is no doubt but the making of Vinegar will be a considerable Article, seeing that few of our fine Preparations for the Table can be made without it. A Gentleman of great note has given me the following Receipt for it, viz.

To nine Gallons of Water, put eighteen Pounds of Malaga Raisins, chopt a little, Stalks and all; put this into a Cask, bound with Iron Hoops, and place it in the warmest Exposure you can find in the open Air: then take a Florence Flask, divested of its Straw, and put the Neck of it into the Bung-hole, fixing it as close as may be, with some Linnen-Cloth, and a little Pitch and Rosin melted together. By this Means, if the Weather prove fair and warm, your Vinegar will be fit for Use in three Weeks time. The use of the Glass, is, that in the heat of the Day it will fill itself with the Liquor, and when the cool of the Evening comes on, that Liquor will again be return'd into the Cask; by which means the Liquor will become sour much sooner than it will otherwise do. As soon as it is clear, draw it off.

To make Irish Usquebaugh; from Lord Capell's Receipt, when he was Lord
Lieutenant of Ireland.

To every Gallon of French-Brandy, put one Ounce of Liquorice sliced, one Ounce of sweet Fennel-Seeds, one Ounce of Anniseeds, one Pound of Raisins of the Sun split and stoned, a quarter of a Pound of Figs split, two Drachms of Coriander-Seeds, let these infuse about eight or nine Days, and pour the Liquor clear off, then add half an Ounce of Saffron, in a Bag, for a Day or two, and when that is out, put in a Drachm of Musk. If when this Composition is made, it seems to be too high a Cordial for the Stomach, put to it more Brandy, till you reduce it to the Temper you like. This is the same Receipt King William had when he was in Ireland.

To make Green Usquebaugh.

To every Gallon of French-Brandy put one Ounce of Anniseeds, and another of sweet Fennel-Seeds, two Drachms of Coriander-Seeds. Let these infuse nine Days, then take of the Spirit of Saffron one Drachm, distil'd from Spirit of Wine, mix with the rest; infuse during this time some Liquorice sliced in Spirits, one Pound of Raisins of the Sun, and filter it; put then a Quart of pure White-Wine to a Gallon of the Liquor, and when all is mix'd together, take the Juice of Spinach boil'd, enough to colour it; but do not put the Spinach Juice into the Liquor till it is cold. To this put one Pound of white Sugar candied, finely powder'd, to a Gallon of Liquor.

To make a Cabbage-Pudding; from a Gentlewoman in Suffolk, as it was written by herself.

Sir,

You will excuse me, if I send you a Receipt for a Pudding, which is accounted so agreeable by my Acquaintance, that they think it worth a place in your Book, call'd, The Lady's Monthly Director, in the Management of the several Products of a Farm. It may as well be made by People of the lower as of the higher Rank.

Take a Piece of boil'd Beef, which is not always done enough; the Parts of it which are the least done, and chop them small: take as much boil'd Cabbage as you have Meat, and chop that as small as the Beef, season this with Pepper and Salt, and two or three Eggs beaten, to mix it up in the manner of farced Meat. Whatever else of seasoning you like, put it to it; and when it is made into a thin Paste, put the Mixture into a Linnen-Cloth, and boil it till it is enough, then serve it to the Table. But this Pudding is much better made with raw salt Beef and boil'd Cabbage, for is makes an extraordinary Paste, and is much softer and fuller of Gravey than the first.

N.B. If it is of the first Sort, the quantity of half a Quartern Loaf of fine Bread, may boil an Hour, and the latter Sort may boil an Hour and a half.

I am Yours, C. B.

Serve it with Butter and Gravey, with Lemon-Juice.

Of the Gourmandine-Pea, and its several Ways of Dressing.

P.S. You have mention'd in one of your Books a sort of Pea, which is call'd the Gourmandine, or Gourmand; which I suppose one may call, in English, the Glutton's Pea, because we eat all of it. For the Pods of it are very sweet and have no Film, or Skin in them, so that the Cods may be as well eaten as the Peas themselves; for which reason, when we have drawn the Strings from them, as we do from Kidney Beans, you may broil them upon a Gridiron, and serving them with gravey Sauce, they are very good; or to cut them into Pieces, and fry them with Mutton Steaks; or else you may fry them with Beef, and they are still better. But the best way, is to cut them cross, as you do French-Beans, and stew them in Gravey with a little Pepper and Salt, there is not any thing in my Opinion can eat better, and to be put in a gravey Soop, are incomparable; especially, if they have been parboil'd, and rubb'd dry, and then fry'd in burnt Butter.

The smallest dwarf crooked Sugar-Pea, that you recommend, is of the same quality, but rather better, for all these Uses, being somewhat sweeter than the former, and the Pod fuller of Pulp.

C. B.

To make Verjuice of Grapes, unripe, or of Crab-Apples; from J. S. Esq.

Take Grapes full grown, just before they begin to ripen, and bruise them, without the trouble of picking them from the Bunches; then put them in a Bag, made of Horse-Hair, and press them till the Juice is discharged; put this Liquor into a Stone Jar, leaving it uncover'd for some Days, then close it and keep it for use. This Verjuice is much richer than that of the Crab-Apple, and has a much greater influence in the way of Callico-Printing; but is harder to come at, few People being willing to gather their Grapes unripe; but where there is a large Quantity, it is well worth while. N.B. It will do well, if the Liquor is put into common Casks, but is nicer to the Palate if it is kept in glazed Jars of about eight or nine Gallons, and the Berries might then be pick'd from the Stalks. Keep this in a good Vault, and it will remain good for three or four Years as Verjuice; but a little more time will make it lose its Sourness, and it will become like Wine.

The Verjuice of Crab-Apples should be made of the wild Crab, which produces Thorns on its Branches, and brings a small round Apple, such as are common to be planted for Fences. I am the more particular in this, because some Apples, which are call'd Wildings, are supposed to have a sharp juice, but such will soften by keeping a Year or two. Take the Crabs, I speak of, in October, and grind them in a Mill, such as they use for making Cyder; then press the Liquor, and put it into Vessels like the former. Besides the agreeable Taste this has, as an Agresta at the Table, it is good for the Callico Printers.

A dry Travelling Powder, for Sauce, or Pocket-Sauce. From Mynheer
Vanderport of Antwerp.

Take pickled Mango, and let it dry three or four Days in the Room; then reduce it to Powder by means of a Grater. Take of this Powder six Ounces, to which add three Ounces of Mushrooms, dry'd in a gentle Oven, and reduced to Powder, by beating in a Mortar; add to this, a Dram of Mace powder'd, half as much Cloves powder'd; or in their room, a large Nutmeg grated, and a Dram of black Pepper, beat fine: mix these Ingredients well together, and sift them through an open HairSieve: and half a Tea spoonful, or less, of the Powder will relish any Sauce you have a mind to make, though it be a quart or more, putting it into the Sauce, when it is warm. To this, one may add about nine Grains of sweet Basil, dry'd and powder'd; or of Summer sweet Marjoram powder'd. If we use this Sauce for Fish, it is extremely good, adding only a little Anchovy Liquor and white Wine.

To preserve Grapes all the Winter.

Take an Earthen Jar, well glaz'd, that will hold about six Gallons, or more; then dry some Oats, a little, in the Sun, upon Leads if you can, so that they have lost some part of their Moisture; lay them then two Inches thick, at the bottom of the Jar, and upon them, your Bunches of Grapes, gathered full ripe and dry; and if in any Bunch there is a rotted Grape, cut it off, and see that your Bunches are quite clean in their Berries; and besides, that all the Parts you have cut the Grapes from, are quite dry. Lay these on the Oats, and upon them put two Inches thick of Oats, dry'd as before; and on them again, a Layer of Grapes, and so the Oats upon them, continuing this Practice till the Vessel is full. Then take a Cork, well soak'd in Oil, and stop it close in the Jar, and seal it up with Pitch, Bees-Wax, and a little Rosin, melted together, and keep it in a cool Place; but to bury it three Foot under ground, is better.

A Collar of Mutton roasted. From St. Edmund's-Bury in Suffolk.

Take a Coast of Mutton, which is the Neck and Breast together, skin it in the whole Piece; then parboil it, and prepare a Mixture of Crumbs of Bread; Lemon-Peel grated, a little Pepper, Salt, Nutmeg, or sweet Marjoram powder'd, which answers the End of most Spices, or else a little dry'd sweet Basil, which we call Bush-Basil, in the Gardens. To this, add the Yolks of six hard Eggs, beat in a Mortar, with six Ounces of Butter; mix this with the other Ingredients; then take the inside of the Mutton, and cover it with this Mixture, and roll it up as close as can be, and secure it in the Roll; so that it may be close for the Spit. It must be spitted through the Middle length-ways, and basted with Butter, salting it every now and then, and the Gratings of Crusts of Bred should be sprinkled upon it, with the seasoning above. Just before it is enough, when it is taken off the Spit, serve it with strong Gravey and Lemon or Orange Juice, and garnish with Lemon or Orange sliced; or when Oysters are in season, add fry'd Oysters: viz.

To fry Oysters for a Plate, or the Garnish of the foregoing Dish.

Make a Batter of Eggs and Flower, Crumbs of Bread, and a little Mace, beaten fine. Stew some large Oysters in their own Liquor gently, and wipe them dry, and flower them: dip them, after this, in the Batter, and fry them in very hot Butter, or Lard, or Seam of an Hog; and they will be incrustated, or cover'd, with a sort of Paste, which will be very agreeable, either for a Plate, or to garnish a Dish. If we have them alone, serve them with some of the Liquor, a little Butter, some White Wine, boiling first some Spices in the Liquor.

Of a Sturgeon, how it ought to be cured, for cold Meat, or dressed hot for the Table.

The Sturgeon is a Fish commonly found in the Northern Seas; but now and then, we find them in our great Rivers; the Thames, the Severn and the Tyne. This Fish is of a very large size; even sometimes to measure eighteen Foot in length. They are in great esteem when they are fresh taken, to be cut in Pieces, of eight or ten Pounds, and roasted or baked; besides, to be pickled and preserv'd for cold Treats: And moreover, the Caviar, which is esteem'd a Dainty, is the Spawn of this Fish.

To Cure, or Pickle, Sturgeon; from Hamborough.

Take a Sturgeon, gut it and clean it very well, within side, with Salt and Water; and in the same manner clean the Outside, wiping both very dry with coarse Cloths, without taking any of the great Scales from it: then take off the Head, the Fins and Tail; and if there is any Spawn in it, save it to be cured for Caviar. When this is done, cut your Fish into small Pieces, of about four Pounds each, and take out the Bones, as clean as possible, and lay them in Salt and Water for twenty-four Hours; then dry them well with coarse Cloths; and such Pieces as want to be rolled up, tie them close with Bass-strings, that is, the strings of Bark which compose the Bass Mats, such as the Gardeners use: for that being flat, like Tape, will keep the Fish close in the boiling, which would otherwise break, if it was tied with Pack-Thread. Strew some Salt over the Pieces, and let them lie three Days; then provide a piece of Wicker, made flat, aid wide as the Copper or Cauldron you will boil your Fish in, with two or three Strings, fasten'd to the Edges, the Ends of which should hang over the Edges of the Copper. The Pans we generally boil our Fish in, are shallow and very broad; then make the following Pickle, viz. one Gallon of Vinegar to four Gallons of Water, and to that quantity put four Pounds of Salt. When this boils, put in your Fish; and when it is boil'd enough, take it out, and lay it in single Pieces, upon Hurdles, to drain, or upon such Boards as will not give any extraordinary Taste to the Fish. Some will boil in this Pickle a quarter of a Pound of whole black Pepper.

When your Fish is quite cold, lay it in clean Tubs, which are call'd Kits, and cover it with the Liquor it was boil'd in, and close it up, to be kept for Use.

If at any time you perceive the Liquor to grow mouldy, or begin to mother, pass it through a Sieve; add some fresh Vinegar to it, and boil it: and when it is quite cold, wash your Fish in some of it, and lay your Pieces a-fresh in the Tub, covering them with Liquor as before, and it will keep good several Months. This is generally eaten with Oil and Vinegar.

To prepare the Caviar, or Spawn, of the Sturgeon.

Wash it well in Vinegar and Water, and then lay it in Salt and Water two or three Days; then boil it in fresh Water and Salt; and when it is cold, put it up for Use. This is eaten upon Toasts of white Bread with a little Oil.

To Roast a piece of fresh Sturgeon; from Mr. Ralph Titchbourn, Cook.

Take a piece of fresh Sturgeon, of about eight or ten Pounds; let it lie in Water and Salt, six or eight Hours, with its great Scales on: then fasten it on the Spit, and baste it well with Butter for a quarter of an Hour; and after that, drudge it with grated Bread, Flour, some Nutmeg, a little Mace powder'd, Pepper and Salt, and some sweet Herbs dry'd and powder'd, continuing basting and drudging of it till it is enough. Then serve it up with the following Sauce, viz. one Pint of thin Gravey and Oyster Liquor, with some Horse-Radish, Lemon-Peel, a bunch of sweet Herbs, some whole Pepper, and a few Blades of Mace, with a whole Onion, an Anchovy, a spoonfull or two of liquid Katchep, or some Liquor of pickled Walnuts, with half a Pint of White Wine: strain it off, and put in as much Butter as will thicken it. To this put Oysters parboil'd, Shrimps or Prawns pickt, or the inside of a Crab, which will make the same Sauce very rich; then garnish with fry'd Oysters, Lemon sliced, butter'd Crabs and fry'd Bread, cut in handsome Figures, and pickled Mushrooms. N.B. If you have no Katchep, you may use Mushroom Gravey, mention'd in the first Part of your Treatise, or some of the travelling Sauce in the same Book, or else a small Tea spoonful of the dry Pocket-Sauce.

To Roast a Collar, or Fillet, of Sturgeon; from the same.

Take a piece of fresh Sturgeon; take out the Bones, and cut the fleshy Part into Lengths, about seven or eight Inches; then provide some Shrimps, chopt small with Oysters; some Crumbs of Bread, and such seasoning of Spice as you like, with a little Lemon-Peel grated. When this is done, butter one side of your Fish, and strew some of your Mixture upon it; then begin to roll it up, as close as possible, and when the first Piece is rolled up, then roll upon that another, prepared as before, and bind it round with a narrow Fillet, leaving as much of the Fish apparent as may be. But you must remark, that the Roll should not be above four Inches and a half thick; for, else one Part would be done enough before the Inside was hardly warm'd: therefore, I have sometimes parboil'd the inside Roll before I began to roll it.

When it is at the Fire, baste it well with Butter, and drudge it with sifted Raspings of Bread. Serve it with the same Sauce as directed for the former.

A Piece of fresh Sturgeon boiled; from the same.

When your Sturgeon is clean, prepare as much Liquor to boil it in, as will cover it; that is, take a Pint of Vinegar to about two Quarts of Water, a stick of Horse-Radish, two or three bits of Lemon-Peel, some whole Pepper, a Bay-leaf or two, and a small handful of Salt; boil your Fish in this, till it is enough, and serve it with the following Sauce.

Melt a pound of Butter; then add some Anchovy Liquor; Oyster Liquor; some White Wine; some Katchep boil'd together with whole Pepper and Mace strain'd; put to this the Body of a Crab, and serve it with a little Lemon-Juice. You may likewise put in some Shrimps, the Tails of Lobsters, cut to Pieces, stew'd Oysters, or Cray-fish cut into small Bits: garnish with pickled Mushrooms and roasted or fry'd Oysters, Lemon sliced, and Horse-Radish scraped.

To make a _Sturgeon-_Pye; from the same.

Put to a quartern of Flour, two Pounds of Butter, and rub a third Part in; then make it into a Paste with Water, and roll the rest in at three times; then roll out your Bottom, and when it is in the Dish, lay some Butter, in pieces, upon it; and strew on that, a little Pepper and Salt. Then cut your Sturgeon in Slices cross-ways, about three quarters of an Inch thick, seasoning them with Pepper, Salt, Nutmeg and Lemon-Peel grated, till your Pye is full, and on the Top lay on Pieces of Butter; then close it, and put in, just before it goes to the Oven, some White Wine and Water; and when it is bak'd, serve it: garnish it with sliced Lemon, or Orange.

To butter Crabs, from the same, for Garnish for the foregoing Dishes, or to be served by themselves.

Take middle-siz'd Sea-Crabs; break the Claws, and pick them; then take out the Body, free from all the Films and boney Parts; mix these together with some Pepper and Salt, to your mind; and when you have heated some White Wine over the Fire, put your Mixture into it, and stir it well together, and keep it warm in a gentle Oven, till you want it for Use: and just before you use it, pour into your Mixture a little melted Butter, and stir it well in; then clean your Shells, as well as possible, in hot Water, and put in your Mixture, and serve it to the Table hot. Or this Mixture may be serv'd on a Plate, upon Sippets, with Slices of Lemon or Orange. You should fry the Sippets.

The Manner of Pickling and Drying of Sheeps Tongues, or Hogs Tongues, which they call Stags Tongues; from a celebrated Practitioner of forty Years standing in London.

The Sheeps Tongues, which are commonly bought in the London Markets, are the best, if they are the Tongues of Wethers, fed in low Lands; being the largest, as they are taken from the largest sort of Sheep: but the Tongues of all Sorts of Sheep are good enough to be worth Pickling. But there is this Difference in the Value, that one large Tongue, well cured, will sell for three Pence, while the smallest Sort, cured in the same manner, will only sell for Three Half-pence, or a Penny. These Tongues are bought in Quantities of the Carcass Butchers, about Whitechappel, and other Butchers about Town, who kill from One hundred to Six hundred Sheep in a Day, each Butcher; and they know very well how to cut out the Tongues, with all their Parts to advantage: but they are afterwards trimm'd, when we receive them, into a more regular Shape; by those who cure them. When we are about this Work, there is one thing necessary to be observ'd, especially in hot Weather, but always it is best to be done; which is, cut the fleshy Part of the Bottom of the Tongue length-ways, and you will find, towards the Root, an Artery, which as soon as 'tis cut will bleed, and joining to that is a kind of Sweet-bread; take these out, as clean as you can, without disfiguring the Tongue; otherwise the Tongues will have an ungrateful Smell, and putrify: so, that if you deal by Wholesale, they will be return'd upon your hands, or be a trouble to the Family where they are made. Wash these well, after trimming, in Salt and Water, and then salt them with common Salt, well dry'd, in an Iron Kettle; one pound to half an Ounce of Salt-Petre, or Nitre, powder'd and well mix'd. Rub them well with the Mixture, and lay them close together in a Tub, or glaz'd earthen Vessel; and, after a few Days, when they are salt enough, take them from the Pickle, and when they are a little dry, tie them by the Tips, half a dozen together; and hang them up in a Chimney, where Deal Saw-Dust is burnt, till they are smoked enough, to be cured for boiling; then boil them in their Bunches, and let them dry for Sale. But to come a quicker Way to cure these Tongues, in the Pickle, as we do generally, is to make a Brine or Pickle in the following manner; that is, take a quantity of Water, and make a Pickle of it with common Salt, boil'd till it will bear an Egg; and then put in to every Pound of Salt, half an Ounce of Nitre, or Salt-Petre; and when the Pickle is cold, throw in your Tongues: which is the quickest Way. But for drying of them, the Smoking-Closets will do perfectly well, only we have not always those Conveniencies.

The Smoking-Closets,

It is to be observ'd, from your own Writings, That the Smoking-Closets are of great use in curing of Hams; and they are no less useful in drying of Tongues. I have, in a place, in the Country, one of them in a Garret, where we enclose a Room of ten foot Square, where is a Chimney, into which, by a Register, we let in the Smoke from the Fire, which is made on a Hearth, on the ground Floor; so that the Smoke then does not come too hot on the Tongues, and so preserves them from turning rusty. This is much the best way of curing them, and one may cure, in such a Room, fourscore dozen at a time. This Place, likewise, we cure our Hung-Beef in. We have try'd some Sheeps Tongues, salted only in a Brine of common Salt, and dry'd in such a Room; and they are very red, and well tasted, though there is no Salt-Petre used in the Pickle.

A Carp Pye. From Mrs. Mary Gordon.

Put to a quartern of Flour a pound and a half of Butter, rubbing a third part in; and make it into a Paste with Water: then roll in the rest of the Butter, at two or three times, and lay your Paste in the Dish, putting some bits of Butter, on the bottom Paste, with some Salt and Pepper, at discretion.

Then scale and gut your Carp, and wash it with Vinegar, and dry it well; and make the following Pudding for the Belly of the Carp: viz. Take the Flesh of an Eel, and mince it very small; add some grated Bread, some dry'd sweet Marjoram powder'd, two butter'd Eggs, a small Anchovy minced, a little Nutmeg grated, and some Salt and Pepper; mix this well, and fill the Belly of the Carp with it; and for the remaining Part, make it into Balls. Then cut off the Tail and Fins of the Carp, and lay it in the Crust, with the Balls about it; some Mushroom Buttons, Oysters with their Fins taken off, and some Shrimps, a few Slices of Lemon, and some thin Slices of fat Bacon, a little Mace and some bits of Butter: then close it, and before you put it into the Oven, pour in half a Pint of Claret. Serve this Pye hot.

To make Biscuits of Potatoes. From the same.

Boil the Roots of Potatoes, till they are tender; then peel them, and take their weight of fine Sugar, finely sifted; grate some Lemon-Peel on the Sugar; and then beat the Potatoes and Sugar together, in a Stone Mortar, with some Butter, a little Mace, or Cloves, finely sifted, and a little Gum Dragon, steeped in Orange-Flower-Water, or Rose-Water, till it becomes a Paste; then make it into Cakes with Sugar, finely powder'd, and dry them in a gentle Oven.

To make Biscuits of Red Beet-Roots; from the same; call'd the Crimson
Biscuit.

Take the Roots of Red-Beets, and boil them tender; clean them, and beat them in a Mortar with as much Sugar, finely sifted; some Butter; the Yolks of hard Eggs, a little Flower; some Spice, finely beaten, and some Orange-Flower-Water, and a little Lemon-Juice. When they are well mix'd, and reduced to a Paste, make them into Cakes, and dry them in a slow Oven.

To boil Onions, that they shall lose their strong Scent, and become as sweet as Sugar in their Taste. From the same.

Take the largest Onions, and when you have cut off the Strings of the Roots, and the green Tops, without taking off any of the Skins, fling them into Salt and Water, and let them lie an Hour; then wash them in it, and put them into a Kettle, where they may have plenty of Water, and boil them, till they are tender. Then take them off, and take off as many Skins, as you think fit, till you come to the white Part, and then bruise them, if you will, and toss them up with Cream or Butter, if you use them with boil'd Rabbits, or under a roasted Turkey; but in the last Case, this Sauce should be serv'd in Basons, or on Plates. You may also bruise them, and strain them through a Cullendar, and then put Cream to them; which is esteem'd the nicest way for a Turkey; or if you keep them whole, you may warm them in strong Gravey, well drawn, with Spice and sweet Herbs; and when that is done, thicken the Gravey with burnt Butter, adding a little Claret, or White Wine; or, for want of that, a little Ale. This is a Sauce for a Turkey roasted, or roast Mutton, or Lamb.

Hungary-Water. From Mrs. Du Pont, of Lyons; which is the same, which has been famous, about Montpelier.

Take to every Gallon of Brandy, or clean Spirits, one handful of Rosemary, one handful of Lavender. I suppose the handfuls to be about a Foot long a-piece; and these Herbs must be cut in Pieces, about an Inch long. Put these to infuse in the Spirits, and with them, about an handful of Myrtle, cut as before. When this has stood three Days, distil it, and you will have the finest Hungary-Water that can be. It has been said, that Rosemary Flowers are better than the Stalks; but they give a faintness to the Water, and should not be used, because they have a quite different Smell from the Rosemary; nor should the Flowers of Myrtle be used in lieu of the Myrtle, for they have a scent ungrateful, and not at all like the Myrtle.

The Manner of making the famous Barcelona Snuff, as it was perform'd at the Lyon at Barcelona; from the same. This is also call'd Myrtle Snuff.

Take Seville Snuff, and prepare a dry Barrel, that has not had any Wine in it, or of any Scent; then cut the fresh Tops of Myrtle, and lay a layer of them at the bottom of the Cask, an Inch or two thick; then lay Snuff on that as thick, and lay on more Myrtle, two Inches; then again, put on Snuff, and so fill the Barrel in the same Manner, Stratum super Stratum. Then press it down with a Board, that will fit, and set three Weights upon it of a quarter of an Hundred a-piece, and let it stand four and twenty Hours; then turn it out, and sift it, flinging the Myrtle away; then put it into the Cask, as before, with fresh Myrtle, and serve it so three times, and sift it off. When this is done, add to every ten Pounds of Snuff, one pound of Orangery Snuff, and mix the whole very well, and after three days, put it into glaz'd Pots, well pressed into them, and stopt close; or else into Leaden Pots: which last is rather the best.

To make Orangery Snuff. From the same.

Take Seville Snuff and Orange-Flowers, fresh gather'd early in the Morning. And in a glaz'd Earthen Vessel, lay a Layer of the Flowers, then a Layer of Snuff, then a Layer of Flowers; and so on, till the Pot is full. Press it down very gently, and let the Mouth of the Pot be open for twenty-four Hours; then turn all out, and sift your Snuff, and lay in fresh Flowers, with Snuff, in the same manner as before; and at the end of four and twenty Hours sift it off again, and repeat the same the third time: being sure that the Flowers do not remain longer than twenty-four Hours, else they will sour the Snuff. In making this Snuff, you ought to allow at least a pound for Waste, for the Flowers will gather a great deal of it.

To make Orange-Butter. From the same.

Take Hogs-Lard (or as in some Places, call'd Hogs-Seame) wash this well in Spring-Water, beating it all the while with a piece of Wood; then take Orange-Flowers, fresh gather'd, and melt the Lard gently, and put about a quarter of a pound of the Flowers into a pound of Lard; let them remain ten Minutes, gently keeping them warm over the Fire; then strain it off, and when the Lard is again cold, beat it, and wash it with Orange-Flower-Water. Then melt it gently a second time, and put in fresh Flowers, in the same manner as before, and it will become of a yellow Colour; and, when it is cool, beat it again with a wooden Paddle and Orange-Flower-Water, and then put it into Pots for use. I should remark, that the Lard should be melted by putting it in a glazed Vessel, and melting it by putting the Vessel into boiling Water.

To make Flour of Mustard.

Those who live in the Country, or go to Sea, have frequent occasion to use Mustard, when there is no opportunity of getting it without extraordinary Trouble. It is a Sauce seldom thought on till the Minute we want it; and then, according to the old Way of making it, if we are lucky enough to have Mustard-Seed in the House, we must spend an Hour in the Ceremony of grinding it in a wooden Bowl, and an Iron Cannon-Bullet, according to the old Custom; or, if we have Mustard by us, ready made, if it has stood a Week, it is then of no value, if it is in small quantity. But to obviate this Difficulty, the Invention of grinding Mustard-Seed in a Mill, and thereby reducing of it to Flour, to be made fit for the Table in an instant, has been very well received: for by that Contrivance we have it always fresh, and full of brisk Spirits, and may only make just what we want without any spoil, as long as we keep a Stock of this Flour by us.

There are two Sorts of Mustard: viz. The white Sort, which is a large Grain, and not so strong; and the black Sort, which is a small Grain. That which I account the best, is from the wild Mustard, commonly found growing in Essex, which sells the best in the Markets. But from whatever Place we have it, regard should be chiefly had to its being free from Mustiness, which happens from the gathering the Seed wet, or in the Dew, and laying it close together before it is thresh'd. When this Seed is dry and sweet, grind it in a Mill, such as a Coffee-Mill; but the Mill must be fresh, and free from any Flavour or Taint: it should not indeed be used with any other thing. When you have ground a sufficient Quantity, pass it through a pretty open Sieve, and the next day put it into Vials with open Mouths, pressing it down close; stop them well, and keep it for use. When you want good Mustard for the Table, take a spoonful or two of this Flour, and as much boiling Liquor from the Pot, where Beef or Pork is boiled, as will make it of the Consistence you desire, stirring it well till it is mixt for your Purpose; or for want of such Liquor, boil a little Salt and Water together, and mix your Mustard-Flour with that; but in either of these Ways you must observe, that while your Mustard is warm, it will last better.

Some who do not love their Mustard overstrong, put equal Quantities of the white and black Mustard-Seed into the Mill, and then the Flour will not be so poignant to the Palate, and will have a brighter Look. If your Mill be set very sharp, the Flour will be so fine, that it need hardly be sifted.

To keep Anchovys good for a long time. From Mrs. M. N.

As the People in the Country have not always the conveniency of a Market near them, and the Anchovy is often required for Fish-Sauce; so should every Family keep a quantity by them. They should be large, and fresh brought over when we buy them, and feel firm to the Finger; neither should they have their Heads on, for they are then more apt to turn rancid and stink; and if we buy them in large Quantities, the frequent opening the Pot we keep them in will subject them to Change. But to prevent this, as the Liquor falls or shrinks, add Vinegar to them, which will continue them firm and free from Rotting for two Years.

To Roast a Shoulder of Mutton like Venison. From the same.

Take a Shoulder of Mutton, and skin it; then lay it in the fresh Blood of a Sheep, well stirr'd with a little Salt, as it is bleeding, for six or eight Hours. When you have done this, wash it in Water and Salt, and at last with Vinegar; or else you may steep it in an Infusion of warm Water, a Gallon, and half a quarter of an Ounce of Brazil-Wood rasp'd. You may steep it in this Liquor for four Hours, or else you may let it pass half an Hour in a gentle Oven with Water and Salt, and a small Piece of Brazil-Wood in it; either of which will give it a Colour: but I think the two last are better than the Blood. Roast it then for its time, basting it well with Water and Salt, till it is near enough, and then give it a little sprinkling of Salt and raspings of Bread, with some Flour well mixt. The Sauce for this is Claret boil'd with Cinnamon, sweetned with a little Sugar and Crumbs of Bread grated: but some will use the Claret, Sugar and Cinnamon without the Crumbs, in Saucers; as it is now the most common way in Noblemens Families to do Venison. But in the Dish with the artificial Shoulder of Venison, put a strong Gravey of Beef; or made of some of the Beef-Glue which you have recommended in your Book.

To make a Hare-Pye, for a cold Treat. From the same.

Take the Flesh of an Hare, and beat it in a Marble Mortar; then add as many butter'd Eggs as will almost equal the Quantity of the Hare's-Flesh. Mix these together with a little fat Bacon cut small, some Pepper and Salt, and a little powder of Cloves and Mace, or sweet Marjoram, to your Pleasure, and mix them very well; then lay in your Paste, and butter it well at the bottom with some seasoning, strew'd upon it, and lay in your Preparation, and cover it with Butter; then close it, and serve it when it is cold.

To preserve Ginger, and reduce the common Ginger for that purpose. From the same.

Take the large Roots of Ginger, and pour scalding Water upon them; and when that is cool, pour on some more scalding Water: and so repeat the same till the seventh or eighth time, or till you find the Ginger soft, and very much swell'd. Then warm some White Wine, and put it in that, for a few Hours, stirring it frequently while it is in any of the Liquors. Boil the last Liquor with fine Sugar to a Syrup; then put in your Ginger, and boil it for some time; then set it by till the next day, and repeat the boiling of the Ginger, adding every now and then a little White Wine, till the Ginger begins to look a little clear; and when it is cold, put it into Glasses, or glazed Jars, stopping it close.

Marmalade of Oranges and Lemons. From the same.

It is necessary to boil the Rinds of each in several Waters, till the Bitterness is lost, and that they are reduced to a tenderness, such as you like; then beat them in a Marble Mortar with as much of the Pulp of Golden-Pippins, or Golden-Rennets, as you think proper. Then take their weight of Sugar well powder'd, and a Pint of Water to every Pound of Sugar; boil your Sugar and Water, and when you have made a Syrup, put in your Pulp, and boil them all together till they are clear. Then put in the Juice of Oranges and Lemons, so much as will give you the Taste you desire; then boil it over again till it jellies, and put it into Glasses, Keep this in a dry Place.

To make Syrup of Mulberries. From the same.

Press out the Juice of Mulberries with your Hands, and pass it through a Sieve; and when it has stood to settle, pour off the clear, and put to it, its Weight of fine Sugar; put this into a Gallypot, and set that Pot into a Kettle of hot Water, which should be kept simmering near two Hours: stir the Syrup every now and then with a Silver Spoon, and take off what Scum may rise at Times, upon it; when it is enough, let it stand till it is quite cold, and then put it into clear dry Bottles with large Mouths, and stop them close. Keep this in a dry Place.

It is to be remark'd, that besides this Syrup is very cooling; its use is to colour stew'd Apples, or Puddings, or any sweet Preparation made with Flour or Fruit: for in itself it carries no Flavour that will be predominant over that of another Fruit.

Of Syrup of Raspberries, Currans, or other Fruits. From the same.

These Syrups are made like the former, by pressing out the Juice with the Hands; because if the Seeds are broken, they would have an ill Taste. Treat these in the making just in the same way as the former, and use them in the same manner, to colour any sweet Preparation; but remember, where you put any of the Raspberry Syrup, the Flavour of the Raspberry will prevail.

To make a _Raspberry-_Pudding. From the same.

Take a Pint of Cream, and grate into it four Penny Naples Biscuits; then take the Yolks of eight hard Eggs chopt and broken small; then beat four Eggs and put in two spoonfuls of Flour, and as much Powder of double-refined Sugar; then put in as much Syrup of Raspberries as you think proper to give it a Flavour and a Colour. If you find that your Composition is not thick enough, you may grate in more Naples Biscuit. Mix all this well together, and, if you will, make a fine Crust roll'd thin and laid in a Dish, and bake it in a gentle Oven.

Parsnip-Cakes. From the same.

Scrape some Parsnip-Roots, and slice them thin, dry them in an Oven and beat them to Powder; mix them then with an equal quantity of Flour, and make them up with Cream and Spices powder'd; then mould them into Cakes, and bake them in a gentle Oven. N.B. The sweetness of the Parsnip Powder answers the want of Sugar.

To make Raspberry bak'd Cakes. From the same.

Take Potatoes and boil them, and when they are peel'd, beat them in a
Marble Mortar with half the Quantity of fine Sugar powder'd; then put in
some of your Raspberry Syrup, till it is coloured with it, and make up your
Cakes in fine Sugar powder'd. Then dry them, or bake them, in a gentle
Oven, Note, these Cakes should be made thin.

Of Ortolans. From Mr. Renaud.

The Ortolan is a Bird brought from France, and is fed in large Cages with Canary-Seeds till they become a lump of Fat; and when they are fully fatted, they must be killed, or else they will feed upon their own Flesh. When we kill them, you must take them by the Beak, and holding it close between your Finger and Thumb, the Bird will be stifled in about a Minute; then pick off the Feathers even those of the Head, and pass a fine Skewer through them, just under the Wings, and roast them quick; setting small Toasts under them to drip upon. Serve them with strong Gravey, and as much White Wine hot, and garnish with Slices of Lemon and Raspings of Bread sifted and toasted before the Fire.

To make Sugar Comfits of any Sort. From Mrs. Anne Shepherd of Norwich.

The Seeds which we generally make Comfitts of, are Carraways, Coriander and Anise-Seeds; these, when they are cover'd with Sugar, are call'd Comfits, (Confects).

The Instruments to be employ'd for this Use, are first a deep-bottom'd
Bason of Bell-Metal, or Brass, well tinn'd, to be hung over some hot Coals.

Secondly, You must have a broad Pan to put hot Coals in.

Thirdly, Provide a Brass Ladle to pour the Sugar upon the Seeds.

Fourthly, You must have a Brass Slice to scrape off the Sugar that may chance to hang upon the side of the hanging Bason.

Then take care that your Seeds are dry, or dry them well in your hanging
Pan.

To every quarter of a Pound of Seeds use two Pounds of fine Sugar beaten; unless to Anise-Seeds, use two Pounds of Sugar to half a Pound of Seeds.

To begin the Work, put three Pounds of fine Sugar into the Bason with one Pint of Water, to be stirr'd well together till the Sugar is wet; and boil it gently, till the Sugar will rope from the Ladle like Turpentine, and it is enough. Keep this however warm, upon warm Embers, that it may run. freely in a ropy Way from the Ladle upon the Seeds.

When this is ready, move the Seeds briskly in the Bason, and fling on them half a ladle-full at a time of the hot Sugar, keeping the Seeds moving for some time; which will make them take the Sugar the better, and be sure to dry them well after every covering, by moving the Bason, and stirring the Comfits. In an Hour, you may make three Pounds of Comfits: you will know when they are coated enough with Sugar, by their becoming as large as you would have them. There is no certain Rule, but our own Fancies, for the Size of them. Note, Till they are as you would have them, cast on more melted Sugar, as at first, and keep them stirring and shaking in the Pan, drying them well after every Coat of Sugar.

If you would have ragged or rough Comfits, make your Sugar so liquid, that it will run from the Ladle; and let it fall upon the Seeds about a Foot and a half high. Let it be very hot, for the hotter it is, the rougher will be your Comfits; and for all that, the Comfits will not take so much Sugar as one may imagine from their Appearance. Put on at each time only one Ladle-full, and in ten times repeating it your Comfits will be perfectly well coated.

For plain Comfits; let not your melted Sugar be too hot at first, nor too thick; neither pour it on the Seeds too high: but the last two or three Coverings may be thicker and hotter.

As for Coriander-Seeds, which are large, three Pounds of Sugar will only cover a quarter of a Pound of them.

While your are at work, you should keep your melted Sugar in good Temper, that it may not gather into Lumps, or burn to the bottom of the Pan; and to prevent its growing too thick at any time, put to it a spoonful or two of Water, gently stirring it now and then with your Ladle, keeping your Fire very clear under your Pan. When your Comfits are made, put them upon Papers in Dishes, and set them before the Fire, or in a declining Oven, which will make them look of a Snow white; when they are cool, put them in Boxes, or in crystal Bottles.

To make Comfits of various Colours. From the same.

If you would have your Comfits of a red Colour, infuse some red Saunders in the Water till it is deep colour'd enough; or else take some Cochineel, and infuse it till the Liquor is red enough; or put some Syrup of Mulberries with Water to the Sugar.

If of a yellow Colour; use Saffron in Water, which you are to mix with the
Sugar.

If Green; take the Juice of Spinach, and boil it with the Sugar: so will your Comfits be of the several Colours above-mention'd.

To preserve Orange and Lemons-Peels in Jelly. From the same.

Cut some of the fairest Oranges and Lemons in halves; then scoop out all the Pulp and Inside, and boil them in several Waters till they are so tender, that you may pass a Straw through them; then wash them in cold Water.

Boil then the following Preparation: viz. The Quantity of a Quart of Water to every Pound of Peel; and in it some thin Slices of Golden-Pippins, or Golden Rennets, till the Water becomes slippery. Then to this Water, add as much Sugar as will boil it to a strong Syrup; then put in your Peels and scald them, and set them by till the Day following, and boil them again till the Syrup will jelly. Then put your Peels into your Glasses, and put into your Syrup the Juice of three large Oranges, and one Lemon strain'd, and boil it till it will make a stiff Jelly, and pour it upon your Peels. When this is quite cold, then put Papers over the Glasses, and keep them in a dry Place.

You may also pare the Rinds, in Rings or Slices, and boil them as before; and in every respect treat them as you are directed to preserve the halves of Oranges.

To preserve Orange-Flowers in Jelly.

Gather your Orange-Flowers, in the Morning early, when they are just open, and take the Leaves of them. Boil these gently in two or three Waters, passing them every time through a Sieve: shift the Waters often, to take out the too great bitterness, but don't boil them too soft, nor to lose their Whiteness. When this is done, make a strong jelly'd Syrup with Water and fine Sugar, and add some Juice of Lemon or Orange to it; then pour it on the Leaves of the Orange-Flowers; and when it is cold, cover your Glasses with Paper. N.B. You may thicken your Syrup with the Pulp of Pippins.

_Lemon-_Cakes. From Mrs. Anne Shepperd of Norwich.

Take out the Pulp of Lemons, as little bruis'd as possible; then boil some Sugar to a candied height, and put to it the Pulp and Juice, and stir it quickly; then put it into a Stove or into hot Sand. When you observe that it begins to candy on one side, then turn them out of the Glasses with a wet Knife on the other side, and let that candy too, in the same manner; when all is done, put them in a Box between Papers, and keep them in a dry Place.

Tripe of Eggs. From Mr. Fontaine.

Take the Whites of Eggs, and beat them very well in a Porringer; prepare then some hot Water and Vinegar with a little Salt, and then put in the Eggs, till they are hard; then cut them in pieces about an Inch square, and then take some White Wine, and as much Water and some Salt. Put this in a Pan, and heat it over the Fire with a little Parsley, an Onion and some Spice; when it is hot, serve it up with Butter and Mustard, and it will eat like Tripe: or else you may serve it like a Ragoust, with the following Sauce; viz.

Sauce for the Artificial Tripe in Ragoust. From the same.

Take strong Gravey made of Beef, and the Ingredients which are mention'd in the drawing of Gravey. Warm it with a little White Wine, and thicken the Sauce with burnt Butter: then, when the Eggs are warm'd, pour the Sauce over them.

Bacon Froize, or Fraise. From Mrs. Bradbury.

Cut fat Bacon in small Pieces, about an Inch long, and then prepare ten or a dozen Eggs well beat; put in a little Milk, some Spice, at pleasure, and some Flour; then put some Lard or Seam of an Hog into a Pan, and make it very hot; and when it is so, pour in the Mixture, and clap a dish over it, after you have thrown some of the Seam upon it. When the Froize is done enough on one side, turn it with the Dish, and fry it till it is quite enough. Then serve it with a garnish of sliced Lemons and a little Butter, first letting it drain.

Clary and Eggs, From the same.

Take eight or ten Eggs; beat them well in a Porringer; then take some Clary Leaves, and chop them small; add a little Pepper and Salt, and some Onion chopt small. This Mixture must be fry'd in hot Lard or Hog-Seam, and serve it with Slices of Lemon.

To stew a Pig. From the same.

Roast a Pig till it is hot; then take off the Skin and cut it in pieces; then take some White Wine and good Gravey, and stew it with an Onion, some Pepper, Salt, some Nutmeg, a little sweet Marjoram, and some Elder Vinegar, with some Butter; and when it is enough, lay it upon Sippits, and garnish with sliced Lemon.

To stew a Pig another way. From the same.

Roast a Pig till you can take off the Skin; cut it then in small pieces, and stew it in White Wine, with a bunch of sweet Herbs, an Onion, some Pepper and Salt, a few Cloves, or a little sweet Marjoram powder'd. When it is enough, strain off the Liquor it was boil'd in, and in some of that put some Mushrooms, and thicken it with Cream, and it will make an excellent Dish. You may garnish it with sliced Lemon and pickled Barberries.

To make a Fricassee of Sheeps Trotters.

Clean them very well from the Hair; then wash them in Vinegar and Water;
then take out the Bones, and boil them in Salt and Water with a little
Lemon-Peel. When they are hot, give them either of the following Sauces.
For a white Sauce, take the following: viz.

Take some Water, with some Salt, a few sweet Herbs, some whole Pepper, some Lemon-Peel and a bit of Horse-Radish, a Shallot, and a little White Wine. When it is strong enough relish'd, then strain it off, and take a little of it, and mix it with Butter to thicken it, or Cream would do better, about half a Pint: pour this over the Sheeps Trotters with a few Capers, and serve it up with Slices of Lemons.

A brown Fricassee of Sheeps Trotters.

Dress them as before, and when they are fit for Sauce, then take some Hogs Lard, and make it very hot in a Pan, then put in your Trotters, when they are well covered with Flour, and when they are done enough, pour over them a Sauce made of Gravey, some Claret and some Mushrooms thickned with burnt Butter. This will make a good brown Fricassee; and serve it up with a garnish of Lemon sliced, Barberries pickled, some raspings of Bread lifted, and toasted before the Fire.

To make a Lumber-Pye. From Exeter.

Take a Pound of lean Veal, free from Strings, shred it very small, season it with Cloves and Mace powder'd, some powder of dry'd sweet Herbs, some Lemon-Peel grated, some Pepper and Salt, three large spoonfulls of grated Bread, a little Juice of Lemon, and five or six butter'd Eggs. Mix these Ingredients well together into a Paste or as a farced Meat for Balls about the Bigness of small Wallnuts; then take two or three large Veal Sweat breads, and cut them in pieces; then provide a Pint of Mushroom Buttons well clean'd, and the Yolks of eight hard Eggs cut in halves, a dozen Coxcombs well scalded and clean'd: lay these with a seasoning of Pepper and Salt in a good Paste that covers the bottom of your Dish; first laying bits of Butter on the Paste at the Bottom. Some will put about half a Pound of Currans into this Pye; but every one to their Fancy. When your Ingredients are disposed in your Dish, lay on about four Ounces of Marrow, and the quantity of six Ounces of Butter, and then close it.

Just before you set it in the Oven, pour into your Pye half a Pint of Water; and as soon as you take it out, pour in half a Pint of White Wine warm'd, and serve it hot.

To make Orange or Lemon Tarts. From Mrs. J. S.

Take the Rinds of half a score Oranges or Lemons, and salt them four Hours; then boil them in four or five Waters till they are tender, and beat them in a Marble Mortar till they are reduced to a Pulp; then squeeze in the Juice of as many of the Oranges or Lemons as you think fit, and sweeten the whole very well with fine Sugar, and boil it till it is thick, stirring it while it boils, that it may not burn; then let it stand till it is cold, and put it into your Paste. When you serve it, strew fine Sugar over it. Serve it cold.

To make Lemon Cheesecakes. From Mrs. M.N.

Grate the Rind of a large Lemon, into the Yolks of eight raw Eggs, being first very well beat; then add a quarter of a Pound of fine Sugar well beaten and sifted, and four Ounces of fresh Butter; warm these gently over a Fire, keeping it stirring all the while till it begins to thicken; then take it off, and put it in the Coffins made of puff Crust, and bake your Cheesecakes in a gentle Oven.

To make Orange or Lemon Cheesecakes, another way. From the same.

Take the Rind of a large Lemon or Orange, and boil it in four or five Waters till it is quite tender, and free from its Bitterness; then either shred it or beat it very fine in a Marble Mortar with the Yolks of eight hard Eggs, six Ounces of Loaf-Sugar finely powder'd, and a spoonfull of Orange-Flower-Water: mix this then with as much Cream, and two Eggs beat, as will render it of the Consistence of Cheesecake-meat before it is baked; then put it into your Coffins, and bake them in a gentle Oven. You may put in Currans if you please, but they are generally omitted: however, if you like to have them, let them be first plump'd a little over the Fire in Sugar and Water.

The best way for these Cheesecakes is to make the Coffins in Patty-Pans, and fill them with the Meat near an Inch thick.

The Proportions mention'd above will serve to direct for a large quantity.

To make Cheesecakes. From Lady G.

Take a Quart of tender Curd, and drain it from the Whey; then break it small; then take a quarter of an Ounce of Mace finely powder'd, and eight Ounces of fine Sugar sifted, eight Yolks of Eggs well beaten, four Ounces of blanched Almonds beat fine in a Marble Mortar with Rose-Water, or Orange-Flower-Water, and grate four penny Naples Biscuits into a Pint of Cream, and boil them together over a gentle Fire, stirring it all the while till it is as thick as an hasty Pudding; then mix with it eight Ounces of Butter, and put it to the Curd, but not too hot: mix then all well together, and put it in your Paste.

A Sorrel Tart. From the same.

Wash some Spinach and Sorrel Leaves in two or three Waters, for they are apt to gather Dirt; then either shred them, and squeeze the Juice out through a Cloth, or else beat them in a Mortar of Marble, and strain off the Juice; about half a Pint of Juice will be enough: then shred into it about a Quart measure of the same Herbs, and add six Ounces of fine Sugar beaten, and some Spice, with the Yolks of six hard Eggs bruised, and well mix'd with it, and two Eggs raw well beaten; then put in half a Pint of Cream, stirring it well, and put it in a Paste, then bake it in a very gentle Oven. When it is done, sift on some fine Sugar, and garnish with Orange and Lemon sliced; you may put in some Orange-Flower-Water, if you think convenient.

To make Umble Pye. From Mr. Thomas Fletcher of Norwich.

Take the Umbles of a Deer and boil them tenderly, and when they are cold, chop them as small as Meat for minc'd Pyes, and shred to them as much Beef-Suet, six large Apples, half a Pound of Sugar, a Pound of Currans, a little Salt, and as much Cloves, Nutmeg and Pepper powder'd as you see convenient; then mix them well together, and when they are put into the Paste, pour in half a Pint of Sack, the Juice of two Lemons and an Orange: and when this is done, close the Pye, and when it is baked, serve it hot to the Table.

To Stew Peaches. From the same.

Take Peaches when they are so ripe that they begin to smell; then pare them and slit them, and the Sorts I recommend will leave the Stones. Put these in a Silver Plate, or on such a one as will not communicate any ill taste to them, and pour over them a Syrup made of Pippins, Water and Sugar boil'd till it is a Jelly, and add a little White Wine; then stew them gently over a clear Fire till they are tender; and serve them with fine Sugar sifted upon them. In some Cafes they pour Cream upon them.

Red Peach Tarts. From the same.

Take your Peaches, as before directed, and order them as you did before in paring them and slitting them; then lay them into the Coffins, and when you have sifted on them some fine powder'd Loaf-Sugar, pour over them some Syrup of Raspberries or Mulberries, and bake them gently: they will be tender and very highly flavoured, if you put Raspberries to them, and finely colour'd; but to have them more of their own Taste, put Syrup of Mulberries to them, and they will be finely colour'd. The Coffins or Crust ought to be made of melting Paste, with fine Sugar in it.

Bitters to be drank with Wine.

Take a Quart of clean Spirit, or good Brandy, and put into it an Ounce of Gentian Root sliced, one Ounce and a half of dry'd Orange-Peel, and one Drachm of Virginia Snake-Root; add to this half a Drachm of Cochineel, and half a Drachm of Loaf-Sugar; which last will heighten the Bitter to admiration. A little of this Bitter in a Glass of White Wine creates an Appetite.

To Stew Wild-Ducks. From Amsterdam.

When your Ducks are ready prepar'd for the Fire, rub their Inside with Pepper, Salt, and a little powder of Cloves, a Shallot or two, with a lump of Butter in the Belly of each of them; then lay them in an earthen glazed Pan, that will just hold them, and put three Quarters of a Pound of Butter under and over your Ducks: then pour in a Pint of Vinegar, and as much Water with some Salt, Pepper, some Lemon-Peel, some Cloves whole, a bunch of sweet Herbs, and covering the Pan close, let them stew three or four Hours. Then pass the Liquor through a Sieve, and pour it over your Ducks; and serve them hot with garnish of Lemon sliced and Raspings of Bread sifted. This Method serves likewise for Easterlings, Widgeons, Teal and such like.

To Stew a salted Brisket of Beef. From Mr. La Fontaine.

To a Pound of common Salt, put one Ounce of Salt-Petre, and rub your Beef well with it, and let it lie a Week; then lard the Skin of it with Bacon-Fat, and lay it in a Stew-pan that will shut close. Cut a Lemon in half with its Rind, and lay a-part on each side the Beef; then put in a bunch of sweet Herbs, some whole Cloves, half a Nutmeg sliced, some Pepper, an Onion, or three or four Shallots, half a Pound of Butter, a Pint of Claret, and a Quart of Water; shut your Pan close, and let it stew gently five or six Hours till it is very tender.

Then having some boil'd Turnip cut in dice, flour them and fry them brown; then pour off the Liquor the Beef was stew'd in, and having passed it through a Sieve, thicken it with burnt Butter, and mix your fry'd Turnips with it, and pour all together over your Beef; garnish with Lemon sliced, and Raspings of Bread sifted, and serve it hot, it is an excellent Dish.

Neck of Mutton ragou'd. From the same.

Take a Neck of Mutton clean from Bones, and strip it from the Skin; salt it a little, and let it lie till the next day. In the mean while, bake the Bones with a slice or two of fat Bacon, a Faggot of sweet Herbs, some Spice, a little Salt and some Lemon-Peel, with half a Pint of Water, and half a Pint of Claret, to cover them; then lay your Mutton in a Pan, and when your baked Gravey is passed through a Sieve, pour it into the Pan to the Mutton; but first lard the fat Part of the Mutton with Lemon-Peel, and the leaner Part with Fat of Bacon; then strew some grated Bread and Spice over the Mutton, which will not be cover'd with the baked Gravey; and when you have closed your Pan, stew it gently four Hours. Then lay it in the Dish, and when you have thickned the Sauce with burnt Butter, put a Pint of Mushroom Buttons, either fresh and parboil'd, or pickled, into it, and toss them up till they are hot; then pour them all over your Meat, and serve it hot, garnish'd with Lemon sliced, red Beet-Roots pickled and sliced, Capers, and Horse-Radish scrap'd.

Stew'd Beef in Soup. From the same.

Take four Pounds of Beef, indifferently lean, and cut it in eight or ten Pieces. Put these into a Pan that may be close cover'd, and then about three Quarts of Water, and a Pint of White Wine, some Pepper and Salt, some Powder of dry'd sweet Marjoram, a few Cloves powder'd, half a dozen small Turnips cut in Dice, a Carrot or two cut in the same manner, the white Part of a large Leek shred small, some Leaves of white Beet, two Heads of Sallery shred, and a Piece of Bread-Crust burnt; cover close, and stew this for six Hours, and serve it hot. You may garnish with Lemon sliced.

To dress the Liver and Crow of an Hog. From Mrs. Johnson in Devereux-Court.

However this Dish may seem dispiseable, yet if it is well dresed, few of the savoury Dishes exceed it. The Liver and Crow of an Hog, with the Sweet-Breads, should be used presently after the Hog is kill'd, and the Liver cut in Lumps, twice as big as a Walnut, and not in thin Pieces as most do; for then they will become hard in the Dressing. The Crow must likewise be cut in Slips about the breadth of two Fingers, and so must the Sweet-Breads; then parboil the Pieces of Liver, and make a thick Batter of Flour, Water and Eggs, mixing a little Salt with it, and prepare some red Sage shred very fine; some grated Bread, and some Pepper beaten: mix these together, and when you have some Butter, or Lard, very hot in your Frying-Pan, dip the Crow and Sweet-Bread in the Batter, and immediately dip your Pieces in the Mixture of Bread, Sage, &c. and throw them into the Pan. When these are enough, lay them to drain before the Fire, and then dip the Bits of Liver into the Batter; and after that, into the crumb'd Bread, and give them a turn or two in the Pan, over a quick Fire: then drain them like the others, and serve them hot with Butter and Mustard.

Sea-Larks or Oysters, roasted on Spits or Skewers. From the same.

Take large Oysters, and wash them from Dirt; then dip them in Batter made with Milk, Flour, Powder of Mace, some Eggs and a little Pepper; then dip them again in Crumbs of Bread grated, and some Mace powder'd, and put them on a fine Skewer, broad-side to broad-side, or upon Silver Lark Spits; and when they are at the Fire, flour them well, and baste them with Butter till they are enough. Prepare for them, while they are Roasting, the following Sauce: Take Crumbs of Bread, a little Pepper and Salt, and a Blade or two of Mace with a little Nutmeg, and boil them in some of the Oyster-Liquor till the Bread is tender and like a Pulp, and tastes well of the Spice; then put in a Glass of White Wine, and mix it well, and serve it hot, in a Plate, with the roasted Oysters over the Sauce.

A Shoulder of Mutton or Lamb, roasted with a Farce of Oysters. From
Mr. Norman, late Cook in Norfolk.

Take a Shoulder of Mutton or Lamb, of the smallest size, and slip up the Skin almost to the Leg-Joint; then cut the Flesh from the Bone, on the upper side, and mince it very small, take part of that, and as many Oysters parboil'd without their Fins, and chopt a little; then have some Mace powder'd, and a little Salt and Pepper, with some grated Lemon-Peel, and some grated Bread, with the Yolk of an Egg, or two; and make this into a Paste, and lay it into the Places where the Flesh was taken out; and you may add to this Paste a little Fat of Bacon cut small, or a little Butter. Then skewer the Skin on all sides, over the Farced Meat, and lard the Skin and the fleshy Parts below with Lemon-Peel, and some will lard in Lemon Thyme likewise. Then fix it on a Spit with Skewers, and roast it, well basted with Butter and well floured. The Sauce for this should be stew'd Oysters, some Mace, stew'd Mushrooms, a little Gravey, and some White-Wine, with Crumbs of Bread; then serve it hot, garnish'd with sliced Lemon, and Red Beet-Root pickled and sliced.

Stew'd Veal, with white Sauce; from the same.

Take some Lean of a Leg of Veal, and cut it in thick Slices, then stew them in Water and a little Salt, with some Mace, and a little Nutmeg, and a Bunch of sweet Herbs. When they are almost stew'd enough with the Gravey in them, put to the Liquor they were stew'd in, a Glass or two of White Wine, and a little Lemon Juice, or Orange Juice, with a little Mushroom Gravey, or Liquor of stew'd Mushrooms. When this is done, have some Mushroom Buttons, that have been stew'd white in their own Liquor, and Spice, with a Bay-Leaf; then strain the Liquor, and put some in the Sauce: and when it is hot, put some thick Cream to it, with the Mushrooms; and then serve it hot with a Garnish of sliced Lemon.

Hard Pease-Soup. From the same.

There are many ways of making Pease-Soup. In great Families it is sometimes made of Beef, but a Leg of Pork is much preferable; and in smaller Families the Bones of Pork, as they are called. And the Shin and Hock of a Leg of Pork, after they have made Sausages, may be had at the Sausage-Houses: these boil'd for a long time, will afford a strong Jelly Broth, but they are hard to be met with. However, when they are to be had, you have the Directions for a Broth. Then pass the Broth, hot, through a Sieve, and put into it half a Pint of slit Pease to a Quart of Liquor; or a Quart of whole Pease to three Quarts of Liquor. The Difference between one and the other, is, the slit Pease will open in the Liquor, when we boil it, and the other ought to be broken through a Cullender, when they are boil'd: but the slit Pease are the best; and when you put them into the Liquor to boil, add to every Quart of Liquor as much Sallery as you think proper, cut small; some powder of dry'd Mint, some powder of dry'd sweet Marjoram, some Pepper, and some Salt, to your mind, and let these boil till the Sallery is tender. This is to be done, if we boil a Leg of Pork, after the Pork is out of the Pot; but if we make the Soup from the Bones, boil these Ingredients afterwards in the Liquor. When you serve it, put a French Role in the middle of the Dish, and garnish the Border of the Dish with rasp'd Bread sifted. Some put in All-spice powder'd, which is very agreeable: and one might add the Leaves of white Beets, And in serving, put in toasted Bread, cut in Dice; but the last is out of fashion.

To make green _Pease-_Pottage, with Milk. From the same.

Take a Quart of green Pease shell'd, and boil three Quarts or two Quarts of Milk, as you please to have them thick with Pease; and add some Pepper largely beaten, a little Salt, some dry'd Mint, and sweet Marjoram in powder, and a little whole Spice beaten. Boil these together till the Cream rises, and then stir it, and serve it hot. N.B. The Pease should be boil'd first, if there is any opportunity; and for that Reason, if when we have a Dish of Pease, we leave any, they may be put into the Milk, and boil'd the Morning following; and indeed it is the best to have the Pease boil'd first.

To make an artificial Crab or Lobster. From Mr. F. of Buckingham.

I Suppose you have by you the large Shells of Sea-Crabs clean'd; then take part of a Calf's Liver, boil it and mince it very small, and a little Anchovy Liquor, and but very little, to give it the Fish-taste. Mix it well with a little Lemon Juice, some Pepper, and some Salt, with a little Oil, if you like it, and fill the Shells with it; and then the outside Parts of the Liver, being a little hard, will feel to the Mouth like the Claws of the Crab broken and pick'd, and the inner Parts will be soft and tender, like the Body of a Crab. One may serve this cold, and it will deceive a good Judge, if you do not put too much of the Anchovy Liquor into it. It is very good cold; but if you would have it hot, take the following Receipt.

To make artificial hot butter'd Sea-Crabs.

Have the great Shells of Crabs clean, and prepare some Liver, as before; or it you cannot get Calf's Liver, get a Lamb's Liver, or a young Sheep's Liver will do tolerably well. Boil these, and shred them as directed before, and put a little Anchovy Liquor to them; then add a little White Wine, some Pepper and Salt at pleasure, and some other Spice at discretion, with Butter necessary to make it mellow, over a gentle Fire, or a little Sallet Oil, if you like Oil. Then add a little Lemon Juice in the Shells, stirring the Mixture together. Then serve them up hot with Lemon sliced.

To make artificial Crabs. From M. De la Port of Lyons in France.

Take some of the White of a roasted or boil'd Chicken's Breast, and shred it very small; then add some Roots of Potatoes boil'd and beat into Pulp. Mix these together, and grate a little Lemon-Peel upon it, and add a little Anchovy Liquor to it, with some Oil; and put a little Lemon-juice to it, or Vinegar, with some Pepper and Salt, serve it upon Sippits, garnish'd with sliced Lemon. These may be butter'd in Shells as the Former, but the first is rather the best.

To make artificial Lobsters. From the same.

Practise the same Method with either of the former; and to imitate the Tail of the Lobster, put in the Tails of Shrimps, Buntings, Prawns or Cray-fish; the last cut in pieces, and serve them either upon Sippets in a Plate, or in the large Shell of the Lobster.

N.B. This is a sort of Salmy, or Salmy-Gundy, as they call it in England; but is very much like the Thing we want: and I think, if the Shrimps, or others, were put into the first, it would make it better than putting in the Anchovy Liquor; but if they are to imitate a Crab, they must, (i.e. the Shrimps or Prawns) be chopt very small.

To imitate Cherry-Brandy, without Cherries, very Good.

Take a clean Spirit, or some good French Brandy, one Gallon, and infuse in it the Tops of Laurel, one good handfull till it tastes like the Kernels of Cherries; then put in a quantity of Mulberry Syrup, enough to colour it, and make it pleasant to the Taste. A good Judge will not find the difference between the Right and the Wrong. N.B. When the Brandy is strong enough of the Laurel-Buds, pour it off.

To make Cherry Brandy. From Mr. Cent-Livre.

Take black Cherries, when they are at the cheapest, and pulling them from the Stalks, put them into a Cask of Brandy, a Pound to each Quart of Brandy, and one Pound of fine Sugar to each Gallon. Let it stand for some time, and draw it off. It will be very rich.

To make Ratafia. From the same.

Take the Kernels of Apricots, to do it in the highest way, about one hundred and fifty, and bruise them a little; then put them into three or four Quarts of Brandy, and let them steep four or five Days: then strain them off, and add as much fine Sugar powder'd, as will make it sweet to your Taste. If you find that the Brandy is too strong of the Kernels, put some more Brandy to it before you sweeten it.

Memorandum, If you cannot get Apricot or Peach-Stones, enough for your use, you may use the Kernels of Plum-Stones, Cherry-Stones, or Prunes, and they will make little difference, in great quantities. Break the Shells, and put in Shells and all.

To make Artificial Ratafia.

To a Gallon of Spirits or Brandy, put in two handfuls of the Buds of young Laurel-Branches; infuse this till the Liquor is of a taste as you would have it: then pour off the Liquor, and sweeten it to your Fancy with fine Sugar powder'd. This is a way that a Distiller, who is dead, practised a long while, as well as the making of Gin, or Geneva Brandy, with infusing the Tops of the Juniper Plant in common Spirits. These I told him of, and it is now at my own disposal, and therefore give it to the World. The Ratafia tastes exactly as if the Kernels of Apricot or Plum-Stones had been used.

To make Salmy, or with us Salmy-Gundy. From Lady M.

Take the Breast of a Turkey, a Chicken, or the Lean of some Veal that has been roasted rather than boil'd; but if that happens, it will still do. But however it is, take none of the Skin, nor any Fat. Mince this very small about half a Pound, and then take off the Skin of a pickled Herring, and mince the Flesh of it very small, or for want of that, cut the Flesh of some Anchovys very small; then cut a large Onion small, an Apple or two as small as the rest. Mix these Meats together and laying them in little Heaps, three on a Plate, let some whole Anchovys curl'd or upright, in the Middle, and garnish with sliced Lemon, Capers and other Pickles, with red Beet-Roots pickled and sliced. This to be served cold; and when you eat it, use Oil, Vinegar, and a little Mustard.

To serve up pickled Herrings. From the same.

Take large pickled Herrings, take off the Skin; then take the Flesh from the Bones, on each side, all in one piece, crossing them every half-inch. Then lay the Parts next the Head, in the middle of the Plate, spreading their Bodies to the outside, like a Star, garnishing them with the Roots of red Beets sliced, Lemon sliced, and Berberries pickled. This is commonly eaten with Vinegar, and Bread and Butter, but Onion and Pepper is sometimes used.

Marmalade of Peaches. From the same.

Take Peaches, well grown and almost ripe; pare them, and take their Flesh clean from the Stones. Lay them with a little Water into a Stew-Pan, and add three Quarters of their weight of fine Sugar powder'd. Let this stew till the Peaches are tender, and then mash them with a Spoon, letting them boil gently all the while, till the Whole becomes thick, almost like a Paste; then take it out, and cool it in a China Dish, or earthen glazed Pan; and when it is cold, put it into Glasses, and cover them over with white Paper.

White _Peach-_Tarts. From the same.

Make some Coffins of sweet Paste, and when they are gently baked, and cold, fill them with the above-mention'd Marmalade of Peaches, and serve them.

Apricots preserv'd for Tarts. From the same.

Take Apricots of the largest kind, When they begin to turn to Ripeness, pare them and discharge them from the Stones. Cut them in Halves, and stew them with a little Water, and their weight of fine Sugar powder'd. Boil these gently over a clear Charcoal Fire, till the Liquor becomes of the Consistence of a Jelly, and the Apricots are clear. Then when they are cool, put them up in glazed Gallypots, or in Glasses. If you use them for Tarts, put them in Coffins of sweet Paste, and cover them, and put them in the Oven, till they are hot through. Then serve them with double-refined Sugar grated over them. These may be either serv'd hot or cold. The Jelly of this kind, in the Glasses, may be serv'd as a Sweetmeat in a Desert.

Memorandum, If, when these Fruits are ripe, you can have any Apples near ripe, pare them, and slice them free from the Core, and stew them in as much Water as will cover them, and their weight in fine Sugar, till by boiling and stirring, the whole becomes of a Jelly; then in this, when it is clear, stew your Apricots, or Peaches, till they are what you desire. N.B. You may always colour these with Syrup of Mulberries, which gives no additional Taste.

Plums to make _Marmalade _of. From the same.

There are several sorts of Plums, which are fit for this use. And though they differ in colour, that is, some red and some white, yet the Marmalade made of any of them will be white, for the Colour is only in the Skin; and that if it was to be used, could give no Tincture; but in our Case, we do not want it. The Sorts are either the Bonum Magnum, as it is call'd, which is a large, long, red Plum, with a Pulp very tender, but sour, when it is raw from the Tree. Another is a large Plum, rather yellowish than white, when it is ripe, and of the former Shape, like an Egg, which is called by some the Egg-Plum; but more particularly the white Holland Plum, and is so called by the Gardeners. These two have a Flesh and Juice much like one another, and make a fine Shew in a Dish by way of Desert; but are in my Opinion only fit for stewing. However, the Skins will part easily from 'em, when they are ripe, and they both quit the Stone freely. Take these and peel them, and divide them; then put them in a little Water and their weight of fine Sugar, made into a Syrup, over a gentle Fire: put them in when the Liquor is only warm, and when they are cover'd with the Syrup, stew them gently, if you would preserve them in their Shape; and put them, with the Syrup, into Glasses as soon as they are clear, or else mash them into the Syrup, and let them boil till they become like a Paste; keeping all stirring while they are over the Fire, or else they will burn to the Pan. This Marmalade is good to be serv'd in Glasses as a Sweet-meat in a Desert, or to be put into Coffins for Tarts, or to be brought upon the Table in Saucers among the other Sweet-meats in a Desert.

To stew Cucumbers. From the _Devil-_Tavern, Fleet-street.

Take a dozen large green Cucumbers, that are not too full of Seed; pare them, and slice them; then take two large Onions, and shred them indifferently small. Put these in a Sauce-Pan, and set them over the Fire to stew, with as much Salt as you think convenient; stir them now and then, till they are tender, and then pour them into a Cullender to drain from the Water, and are as dry as possible you can make them; then flour them, and put some Pepper to them. After this, burn some Butter in a Frying-Pan; and when it is very hot, put in your Cucumbers, and stir them continually till they are brown; then put to them about a Gill of Claret; and when that is well mix'd with them, serve them hot, under roast Mutton or Lamb; or else, serve them on a Plate, upon Sippits fry'd and dip'd in Mutton or Beef Gravey.

To Farce Cucumbers. From the same.

Take large Cucumbers and pare them, then scoop out all the Seeds, first cutting off one End, then prepare the following Farce for them. Take the Hearts of some Cabbage-Lettuce stew'd tender in Salt and Water, drain them well, and chop them small, and cut some Onion very fine, shred a little Parsley that has been boil'd tender, and a Mushroom pickled; and add a little All-Spice finely powder'd, and some Pepper, a little Salt, and some Fat of Bacon chopt small. Mix these well together, with the Yolk of an Egg or two, according to your Quantity, and stuff the Cucumbers full of it. Then tie the Ends, that were cut off close, with Packthread, and stew them in Water and Salt till they are tender; then drain them and flour them, and fry them brown in Hogs-Lard very hot, and let them drain; then take off the Threads that hold them together, and lay them in your Dish, and pour the following Sauce over them: viz. Take Gravey well season'd, and as much Claret; boil these together, with some Lemon-Peel, and All-Spice; and thicken this Sauce with burnt Butter. These are good to be serv'd with Mutton Cutlets, as well as alone.

To make a Shropshire Pye.

Take a couple of Rabbits, and cut them in pieces; season them well with Pepper and Salt; then cut some pieces of fat Pork, and season them in like manner. Lay these into your Crust, with some pieces of Butter, upon the bottom Crust, and close your Pye. Then pour in half a Pint of Water, and red Wine mixt, and bake it. Some will grate the best part of a Nutmeg upon the Meat, before they close the Pye, which is a very good way. This must be serv'd hot.

To make a Shropshire Pye, another way. From Lady H.

Take Rabbits and Pork, cut and season'd as above; then make a Farce of the Rabbits Livers parboil'd, and shred small; some fat Bacon shred small, some sweet Marjoram powder'd, some Pepper and Salt, and made into a Paste, with the Yolks of Eggs beaten; and then make this into Balls, and lay them in your Pye, amongst the Meat, at proper Distances. Then take the Bottoms of three or four Artichokes boil'd tender, and cut in Dice; and lay these likewise amongst the Meat. Put in also some Coxcombs blanch'd; then close your Pye, and pour in as much Wine and Water as you think convenient. Bake it, and serve it hot.

To make artificial Coxcombs. From Mr. Renaud.

Take Tripe, without any Fat, and with a sharp Knife pare away the fleshy part, leaving only the brawny or horny part about the thickness of a Cock's Comb. Then, with a Jagging-Iron, cut Pieces out of it, in the shape of Cocks Combs, and the remaining Parts between, may be cut to pieces, and used in Pyes, and serve every whit as well as Cocks Combs: but those cut in form, please the Eye best; and, as Mr. Renaud observes, the Eye must be pleased, before we can taste any thing with Pleasure. And therefore, in Fricassees we should put those which are cut according to Art.

Calf's Liver stuffed and roasted. From the same.

Take a Calf's Liver, the Morning it is kill'd, and make a hole in it, with a large Knife, to run length-ways, but not quite through it; then make a farced Meat, or stuffing for it, of some of the Liver parboil'd, and some Fat of Bacon cut very fine, some fresh Lemon-Peel grated, some sweet Herbs powder'd, and some butter'd Eggs, as much as may be necessary, to mix with the other Ingredients; then add some grated Bread, and some Spices finely beat, with some Pepper and Salt: then fill that part that you cut in the Liver with this farced Meat; and cut other Places if you will, and fill them likewise. You may then lard the Liver, if you will, with Bacon Fat, and roast it, flouring it very well, and basting it with Butter, till it is enough. But it is reckon'd rather better by some, when the Liver is stuffed, to brush it over with the Yolk of an Egg, and strew upon it raspings of Bread sifted, some Flour, some dry'd sweet Herbs powder'd, and some Spice; and then enclose the Whole with the Caul of Veal; so roast it, and it will make an excellent Dish. To be served hot, either with Venison Sauce, made of Claret boil'd with Cinnamon, and sweeten'd with Sugar, or with Gravey Sauce, with a little Wine in it.

To roast a Calf's Liver, another way. From Mrs. M. N.

Take a Calf's Liver, as before, and stuff it as above, only with this Alteration in the Stuffing. Shred some Veal-Suet very small, and add to that some grated Bread, Spice, and dry'd sweet Herbs finely powder'd, with some Currans plump'd, and a little Salt; then make this into a Paste, with some Eggs beaten; and when you have stuffed what Parts you please, with the Mixture, roast it, basting it well with Butter, and strewing on, now and then, some of the above Mixture, as far as it can be in powder, or admit of strewing. Then serve it hot, with melted Butter and Lemon-Juice, or Verjuice, and garnish with Lemon sliced, and pickled Berberries.

Cream Custard. From Lady H.

Boil a Quart of Cream, with some grated Nutmeg, and a little Mace finely powder'd; then beat the Yolks of twelve Eggs, with half as many Whites, with a little Salt: then add a spoonfull of Sack, and one of Orange-Flower Water, or Rose-Water: then put about six Ounces of fine Loaf-Sugar beaten fine, and well sifted; and mix all together, when the Cream is not too hot; then pass it through a fine Sieve, and bake it in China Cups.

To imitate the fat Livers of Capons roasted. From the same.

Take a Calf's Liver fresh, and cut it in pieces, in the shape of large Capons Livers. Dip every one in Flour, and spit them on Lark-Spits, the flat Sides against each other, but minding to put between them a slice of fat Bacon. Roast them, and baste them well with Butter, and drudging them often with rasped Bread sifted, and flour with a little Salt. When they are enough, serve them with the following Sauce. Take two or three Necks of Fowls, if you have them, or else, a little clean Beef Gravey, a little Water, a little Ale, or small Beer; an Onion and some Pepper and Salt: then strain off the Sauce, and pour it into the Dish before you lay in your Livers, and garnish with Slices of Lemon, sliced Beet-Roots pickled, and sifted raspings of Bread. These do well likewise to be laid about a roasted Chicken.

To make Pound Cakes. From the same.

Take a Pound of double refined Loaf-Sugar beaten and sifted; then beat eight Eggs and stir the Sugar in them; then melt a Pound of Butter, and stir that in with the rest, and then stir in a Pound of Flour, some Mace finely beat, with some Nutmeg grated, and some Sack, and Orange-Flower Water; beat these all together for an hour and a half till all is well mix'd; then stir in some Currans plump'd a little. To make good the name of the Cake, there should be a Pound of a sort. Some put about a quarter of a Pound of Caraway Comfits; but every way is good. Bake these in little Pans, in, a gentle Oven, and when they are quite cold, turn them out, and keep them in oaken Boxes, with Papers between them, in a dry Place.

To make a Six Hour Pudding. From the same.

Take a Pound of Beef Suet, pick'd clean from the Skins and bloody Parts, and chop it pretty small; then take a Pound of Raisins of the Sun, and stone them; then shred them, and mix them together: add to them a large spoonfull of Flour, and six Eggs beaten, a little Lisbon Sugar, some Salt, and some Cloves, and Mace, beaten. Then mix these well together, and make two Puddings of them, tied up in Cloths well flour'd; boil them six Hours, and serve them with Sugar and Butter in Cups. This will cut very firm, and not taste at all greasy. And if you save one cold, cut it in Slices, and lay it upon a Grid-Iron, under Beef while it is roasting, and it eats very well with Beef Gravey hot.

To make a Venison Pasty. From the same.

Take six Pounds of Cambridge potted Butter, and rub it into a peck of Flour, but do not rub in your Butter too small; and then make it into a Paste, with Water: then butter your Pan well, and when your Paste is roll'd out thick, lay it in the Pan, preserving only enough for the Lid. The Cambridge Butter is mention'd, because it is a little Salt; or else, if you use fresh Butter, there should be some Salt put into the Crust. When that is prepar'd, take a side of Venison, and take off the Skin, as close as can be, and take the Bones out quite free from the Flesh; then cut this through length-ways, and cut it cross again, to make four Pieces of it; then strew these Pieces with Pepper and Salt, well mix'd, at discretion: and after having laid a little of the Pepper and Salt at the bottom of the Pasty, with some pieces of Butter; then lay in your pieces of Venison, so that at each Corner the Fat may be placed; then lay some Butter over it, in pieces, and close your Pasty. When it is ready for the Oven, pour in about a Quart of Water, and let it bake from five a Clock in the Morning till one in the Afternoon, in a hot Oven. And at the same time put the Skin and the Bones broken, with Water enough to cover them, and some Pepper and Salt into a glaz'd earthen Pan, into the same Oven; and when you draw the Pasty, pour off as much as you think proper, of the clear Liquor, into your Pasty. Serve it hot, but it is properly a side-board Dish, and the Carver ought always to take the Services, of the Pasty, from the Corners where the Fat is, to do honour to the Master and his Park.

To roast a Hog's Harslet. From the same.

Take a Hog's Harslet, as soon as the Hog is kill'd, lay aside the Lights, and cut the Liver in thick Slices, and the Heart in thinner Pieces; then take some of the Crow of an Hog, and cut that in Pieces equal with the rest. Then take the Sweetbreads, with some of the Sticking-Pieces, as they are called, and some Slices of fat Bacon. Dip these into Eggs beaten, and then dip them again into grated Bread, some red Sage chopt small, and some Pepper and Salt, with a little sweet Marjoram, or sweet Basil powder'd; then put the Pieces, broad-side one to another, upon a small Spit, always observing to put the Bacon next the Heart, and the Crow next the Liver; then wrap them up in a Cawl of Veal, and roast it. Put these Pieces as close as you can together, and when it is done, serve it with some melted Butter and Mustard, with a little Lemon-Juice.

To make Cream of Raspberries. From Mrs. Heron.

Take thick Cream, a Quart, and put to that, either some Raspberry Syrup, or some Jamm of Raspberries; but the Syrup will mix much easier with it: however, the Jamm of Raspberries is accounted the best by some, because that has the Seeds in it. But I think, that Syrup of Raspberries is better, because all is smooth, and the Cream tastes sufficiently of the Raspberries. One must serve this with the Desert. But if you use the Jamm of Raspberries, you must beat it with some of the Cream a good while before it will mix; and then put it to the other Cream, and stir it a little, and it will mix.

Artificial Cream, to be mix'd with any Preserves of Fruit. From Mrs. M.
S. of Salisbury.

Take a Quart of Milk, and when it is boil'd, put in the Yolks of eight Eggs well beaten with the Whites of six. Put not in the Eggs while the Milk is too hot, lest they curdle. Then, when they are well mix'd, set them over a gentle Fire, and stir them all the while; and when you perceive them to be thick enough, put into them what quantity you please of Syrup, or Jamms of Apricots, Peaches, or Plums, or Cherries, or Oranges, Lemons, or other Fruits, stirring them well till they partake enough of the preserv'd Fruit's taste, and then serve them up, in China Basons, cold, in a Desert, without any Ornament of Flowers.

To make Sweet-meat Cream. From the same.

Take either clean Cream from the Dairy, or else make the foregoing artificial Cream, and slice preserv'd Apricots, or preserv'd Peaches or Plums, into it, having first sweeten'd the Cream well, with fine Loaf Sugar, or with the same Syrup they were preserv'd in. Mix these well, and serve them separately, cold, in China Basons.

To embalm Pidgeons. From a Lady in Suffolk.

This Receipt was communicated in this manner: viz. Sir, I have seen the Method you propose to embalm Partridges, in your Farmer's Monthly Director, and have tried it so far, that I have kept them, done that way, a Month. I had then a mind to try what I could do with Pidgeons; and as soon as they were kill'd, I was diligent to take out all the Blood, and wash them, and dry them, as is directed, with warm Cloths, both inside and outside. I then laid them in Pans of earthen Ware, and cover'd them with melted Butter, which kept them very well, for a long time. I wash'd the Necks of the Pidgeons, when the Crops were taken out, with Vinegar, and dry'd them. Then I used them as you direct for Partridges, and they kept sweet a Month, fit for Roasting; and they eat the same as if they were fresh kill'd. This I send you word of, because you may know how far your embalming of Partridges has taken Effect, and to tell you, the Lady who told you of it, understood very well what she did. As for my part, I used fresh Butter; but you did not say whether it should be salt or fresh, and I try'd Pidgeons, because they are Fowls which decay sooner than any. If you think this worth your Notice,

I am,
Your humble Servant.
S. F.

To preserve Pidgeons another way. From the same.

Take Pidgeons fresh kill'd; wash them from the Blood, and take off the Flesh, as clean as you can from the Bones, and discharge all the Inside: then season them well with Pepper and Salt, with a little Mace and Nutmeg grated, and boil them in equal quantities of Vinegar and Water, till they are very tender with Cloves, or other Spice, as you like, and if you add a Bay-leaf or two it will be better. When your Pidgeons are boil'd tender enough, take them from the Fire, and when the Liquor is cold, lay your Pidgeons in a large Gally-pot, and pour the Liquor upon them, and cover them up close with Leather, and they will keep a long time.

An Attempt to preserve Cucumbers, for Stewing, in the Winter. From the same.

Sir,

You have often told me, that you was a Lover of Cucumbers, and more especially stew'd, than any other way; which I find many others of my Friends come into. I propose, that you should pare and slice Cucumbers as usual for stewing; and then with a little Salt and Pepper, with their own Liquor stew them in a Sauce-Pan till they are a little tender; then pour them into a Cullendar, and when they are drain'd well from the Liquor, boil some White Wine, with Water, half one, and half the other, with whole Pepper; and when the Liquor is cold, put the Cucumbers into a Gally-pot, and pour the Liquor over them: and, if you put a little Oil upon the Liquor, I am persuaded they will keep several Months. I wish it may be try'd, for I have thought of it; and according to my Judgment it may be fit to use, any time in the Winter, for stewing.

When you use these, pour away all the Liquor, and let them pass through a Saucepan with a little Salt and Water, till they are tender, as you would have them; then drain them again in a Cullendar, and fry them brown, with burnt Butter, first flouring them, and a little Pepper; and when they are enough, put in a Glass of Claret, or a Glass of White Wine.

I am,
Your humble Servant.
S. F.

Pippin Tart. From the same.

Cut some golden Pippins in halves, pare them, and take out the Cores; then stew them with half their weight of Sugar, and some Lemon-Peel, cut in thin long Slices, and Water enough to cover them. When they are clear, they are enough; then set them by to cool, and strain off the Liquor, or Syrup, and put that in a Pan to stew gently, with some candy'd Lemon and Orange-Peel, in slices; then have a sweet Paste prepared in a Dish, and lay in your Pippins, and pour the Syrup, and Sweetmeats, over them, and bake them in a gentle Oven; and when it is hot, pour some Cream either pure or artificial over them, and serve them to the Table.

To Pickle Marygold-Flowers. From Mr. T. of Buckingham.

Though the Marygold Flower is of old date in Pottage; yet it continues still its stand among the useful things of the Kitchen, and cannot more easily be worn out, according to the custom of the Country, when the Country Folks make Broth. Mint with Pease, Fennel with Mackarel, and such like, cannot be forgot. And as the Marygold-Flowers are used in Porridge, I send the Receipt how to pickle them. Strip the Flower-leaves off, when you have gather'd the Flowers, at Noon, or in the Heat of the Day, and boil some Salt and Water; and when that is cold, put your Marygold-Flower Leaves in a Gallypot, and pour the Salt and Water upon them; then shut them up close till you use them, and they will be of a fine Colour, and much fitter for Porridge than those that are dry'd.

Seed-Cake. From the same.

Make some Paste of fine Flour, such as you would make for light Bread, with Yeast. Take five Pounds of this Dough, Without Salt in it, and cover it before a Fire for half an Hour, to make it rise; then take two Pounds and a half of fresh Butter melted, and five Eggs beaten well with half a Pound of fine Lisbon Sugar. Mix these well with your Paste, and work it till it is as light as possible; and when your Oven is very hot and clean, strew into your Cake a Pound of smooth Caraway Comfits; then put some Butter on the Sides and Bottom of your Pan, and put in your Cake, and one Hour and a quarter will bake it. When it comes out of the Oven, cover it with Cloths of Linnen till it is cold; then put it, the next Day, a little while into an Oven. N.B. You must be sure to put in the Sugar after the Butter. One may put on an Iceing if one will.

To make Orange-Chips. From the same.

Take some fresh Oranges about February, and pare them very thin; they are then very cheap. Boil them in several Waters till they are tender, and have lost their Bitterness; then put them into cold Water for twelve Hours or more. Then make a Syrup for them in the following manner. Take about their weight of fine Sugar powder'd, and mix it with as much Water as it will take in, or a little more. Boil this, and scum it well; then drain the Orange-Peels from the Water they were steep'd in, and put them in a glaz'd earthen Vessel, and then pour the boiling hot Syrup upon them, letting them remain so till the Day following; then pour the Syrup from them, and boil it afresh, and pour it on a second time, and repeat the same work till your Peels are very clear, and the Syrup very thick; and then dry them in a Stove, and they will be fit for use, in the Condition we buy them. One may candy Lemon-Chips after the same manner.

To make Hartshorn-Jelly. From the same.

Take six Ounces of Harts-horn Shavings; put them into two Quarts of Water, and two or three bits of Lemon-Peel, and set this in a Sand-heat, for six or eight Hours, or let them infuse about ten Hours upon hot Embers. Then boil it briskly, and when you find it will jelly, as you may do, by taking out a little of the Liquor in a Spoon, and cooling it; then strain it off, and add to it about half a Pound of double-refined Sugar powder'd very fine; about a Gill of Sack, or two or three spoonfuls of Mountain Wine, the Juice of two Lemons; then set this on a slow Fire, and as it heats, beat the Whites of two Eggs to a froth, and put it into the Pan, where the Jelly is, at times as it rises; and then, when it just boils up, take it from the Fire, and it will be clarified. Then pour it by small quantities into the Jelly-bag, and let it drop or run into some Receiver; but it will be apt to run thick at first: then take that which is first run, if it be thick, and pour again into the Jelly-bag, and you will find it come clear. Then place your Glasses to receive it, and change the full one for another, which you must carefully watch, that your Glasses be not soil'd in the least, for the Beauty of this, in one particular, is its transparency; and again, it should not be too stiff. Some only take the Harts-horn Shavings, six Ounces to two Quarts of Water, and boil it gently till the Liquor will jelly, without the expence of a Sand-heat, or setting it on hot Embers. The boiling it is the best way, but requires more Patience.

To make a Tart of the Ananas, or Pine-Apple. From Barbadoes.

Take a Pine-Apple, and twist off its Crown: then pare it free from the Knots, and cut it in Slices about half an Inch thick; then stew it with a little Canary Wine, or Madera Wine, and some Sugar, till it is thoroughly hot, and it will distribute its Flavour to the Wine much better than any thing we can add to it. When it is as one would have it, take it from the Fire; and when it is cool, put it into a sweet Paste, with its Liquor, and bake it gently, a little while, and when it comes from the Oven, pour Cream over it, (if you have it) and serve it either hot or cold.

Marmalade of Pine-Apples, or Ananas.

When you have small Pine-Apples in Fruit, which are not noble enough to be brought to the Table, twist off their Crowns, and pare them; then slice them, and put them into a Syrup of Water, Sugar, and Pippins; and boil them with half their quantity of Sugar added to them, with a little White Wine, breaking them with a Spoon, as they boil, till they come to a Mash, or are a little tender. Then take them from the Fire, and put the Marmalade into Glasses to keep, and cover every Glass with white Paper, preserving them in a dry Place.

To dress the Giblets of a Tortoise, or Sea-Turtle. From a Barbadoes
Lady.

Take the Head, the Feet, and the Tail, of either of these, and taking off their Scales, stew them three or four Hours, in Salt and Water, till they are almost tender; then broil them a little with Pepper and Salt on them, and then put them into a Stew-pan with a Shallot, and some Spice and sweet Herbs, according to your Taste; some strong Gravey, and some Wine, and thicken the Sauce, taking out the bunch of sweet Herbs. You may put then some Juice of Limes to them, or Chadocks or Lemons, to make them fine. N.B. This is a dainty Dish, if they are broil'd, after the first stewing, because as they are sinewey, the Sinews ought to be a little scorched by broiling, or else they will not be so tender as one would have them.

There are two Sorts of Tortoises, the Land, and the Sea-Tortoise; but the Sea-Tortoise or Turtle, is what I mean, which is that which we have about the West-Indies. This is a fine Animal, partaking of the Land and Water. Its Flesh between that of Veal, and that of a Lobster, and is extremely pleasant, either roasted or baked. There are some of these Creatures that weigh near two hundred Weight. They are frequently brought to England in Tubs of Sea Water, and will keep alive a long time.

To roast a Piece of Turtle, or Tortoise. From the same.

Take a piece of the Flesh of about five or six Pounds, and lay it in Salt and Water two Hours; then stick a few Cloves in it, and fasten it to the Spit, baste it at first with Wine and Lemon-Juice; and when it is near enough, drudge some Flour over it, with the raspings of Bread sifted; and then baste it well, either with Oil, or Butter, strewing on, from time to time, more Flour and Raspings till it is enough; then take the Liquor in the Pan, and pouring off the Fat, boil it with some Lemon-Peel, and a little Sugar and Salt, and pour it over the Turtle. So serve it hot.

To make a Turtle, or _Tortoise-_Pye. From the same.

Cut the Flesh of Turtle, or Tortoise, into Slices, about an Inch thick; then take Cloves beaten fine, with some Pepper and Salt, and a little sweet Herbs, and season your Pieces with them; then lay them in your Crust, with some Lemons sliced, and a quarter of a Pint of Oil-Olive pour'd over them, Or else some Butter laid in bits upon them. In the cutting your Pieces, distribute your Fat and Lean, equally as may be; and though the Fat is of a greenish colour, it is yet very delicious: then close your Pye, and just before you put it in the Oven, pour in some White Wine, and bake it in a gentle Oven till it is tender. Then serve it hot.

To preserve Ginger-Roots. From the same.

Take Roots of Ginger, as we have them dry in England; wash them well, and lay one Pound of them to steep, ten or twelve Days, in White Wine and Water, stirring them every Day. Then take two Quarts of White Wine, and about half a Pint of Lemon-Juice, and boil them together a quarter of an Hour; then add two Pounds and a half of fine Sugar, and boil it to a Syrup, taking off the Scum as it rises; then put in your Ginger, and boil it a quarter of an Hour; then let it cool in a glazed Pan till the next Day, and then boil it again in the Syrup for half an Hour, and let it cool, as before, till the Day following, and repeat the boiling and cooling till your Ginger is clear, and put it into your Glasses, and cover them with Papers. It makes a fine Sweet-meat for the Winter.

To preserve Ginger-Roots, fresh taken out of the Ground. From the same.

As Ginger is very common in the West-Indies, so the Roots are either preserved or pickled, when they are fresh taken out of the Ground, and we have now Ginger, growing in Pots, almost in every Garden where there is a Stove; and in a Year's time a single Root will almost fill a Pot; so that one might easily have enough of our own, to preserve every Year. We must take them up, when they have no Leaves upon them; and then scald them in Water, and rub them with a coarse Cloth till they are dry; then put them into White Wine and Water, and boil them half an. Hour; then let them cool, and boil them again half an Hour. Then make a Syrup with White Wine two Quarts, half a Pint of Lime or Lemon-Juice, and two Pounds and a half of fine Sugar, with two Ounces of the Leaves of Orange-Flowers. When these boil together, put in your Ginger, and boil it gently half an Hour; then let it cool in an earthen glaz'd Vessel, and continue to boil it every Day, and cooling it till the Roots of your Ginger are clear. Then put it up in Gallypots, or in Glasses, and cover them with Papers, to keep for use.

To make Paste of Pippins, or other fine Apples. From the same.

Take large Golden-Pippins, or Golden-Rennets, and scald them, with their Skins on; then pare them, and take out the Cores, and beat them in a Marble Mortar very well, with a little Lemon-Peel grated. Take then their weight of fine Sugar, and a little Water, and boil that in a Skillet to a candy height; then put in your Apples, and boil them thick in the Syrup till they will leave the Skillet, and when it is almost cold, work it up with fine Loaf-Sugar powder'd, and mould it into Cakes, then dry them.

To preserve Cornelian-Cherries. From the same.

Take Cornelian-Cherries, when they are full ripe, and take their weight in fine Sugar powder'd; then put these into your preserving Pan, and lay a Layer of Sugar, and another of Fruit; and so on till you have laid all in, covering them with Sugar; then pour upon them half a Pint of White Wine, and set it on the Fire, and as soon as the Sugar is all melted, boil them up quick, and take off the Scum as it rises, stirring them every now and then: and when the Fruit is clear, they are enough. Then put them into Glasses, and cover them with Papers.

To make Marmalade of Cornelian-Cherries. From the same.

When your Cornelian-Cherries are full ripe, take out the Stones, and to every Pound of Fruit, take its weight of fine Sugar powder'd. Wet it with White Wine, and boil it to a candy'd height; then put in your Fruit, with the Juice that comes from them; then boil them very quick, and stir it often, scumming it clean; and when you see it very clear, and of a good Consistence, put it into a glaz'd earthen Pan; and when it is almost cold, put it into Glasses, and cover them with white Paper, and keep it in a dry Room. Note, If you let any of these sharp Fruits stand to cool in your Sweet-meat-Pans, they will take an ill taste from them.

To make Jamm of Damsons. From the same.

Take Damsons, full ripe, a Gallon; pick them from the Stalks, that may happen to be about them, and the Leaves that are sometimes gather'd with them: then take near their weight of Sugar, and about a Quart of Water, and boil them well together, and put in your Damsons, and boil them till they are tender, breaking them with a Spoon, all the while, till the whole is thicken'd. Then put it in Gallypots, and set it to cool; then close the Pots down with Leather.

To preserve Currans in Jelly. From the same.

Take some of the large Dutch red or white Currans, when they are ripe, and pick them from the Stalks; then, with a Pin, pick out the Stones; or, you may, if you will, leave them on the Stalks, if they are large Bunches, but still pick out the Kernels. Then take their weight in Sugar, and wet it with a little Water, and add a little Syrup of Raspberries to it; then boil it to a Syrup, scumming it as it rises: then put in your Currans, and boil them up quick, shaking them often, still taking off the Scum as it rises. They will be enough done to put up, when the Syrup will jelly, as you may try by putting some in a Spoon, and letting it cool. When you find this, pour out all into Glasses, when it has cool'd a little. If your Currans are pick'd from the Stalks, or if they are in Bunches, then let the Syrup be half cold, and pour it into the Glasses; and then put in your Bunches, placing them as you would have them situated, and as it cools, they will fix in their several Stations; cover the Glasses then with white Paper.

Note, The red Currans ought to be done by themselves, and the white by themselves, for both together will make a disagreeable Mixture.

To dry Apricots. From Mrs. Walsingham of Suffolk.

Chuse for this use, the large Turkey or Roman-Apricot, almost ripe; Stone them, and pare them; then throw them into cold Water, with the Parings; weigh the pared Apricots, and prepare an equal weight of fine Sugar powder'd; then put some of the Water the Apricots were steep'd in, to the Sugar, and boil them to a candy'd height: you may then put in your Apricots, and boil them till they are clear, and when they have lain a few Days, in the Syrup, lay them upon a fine Wyre-Sieve, and dry them in a warm Place. Then, when they are done, put them in oaken Boxes, with Papers between them.

To stew a Rump of Beef. From Mrs. L——

Take a small Rump of Beef, lay it in a long Pan, deep enough to allow your Beef to be cover'd; then put to it a Pint of Ale, a Quart of Claret, half a Pint of Verjuice, or the Juice of two large Lemons; and as much Water added, as will make Liquor enough to cover it, a Crust of Bread burnt, an Anchovy, some bits of Lemon-Peel, a bunch of sweet Herbs, two large Hertfordshire Turnips cut in dice, two large Onions cut in halves, some Pepper and Salt, a Nutmeg sliced, a few Cloves, and a little Mace. Stop this close, and let it stew, at least, five Hours; then lay your Beef in the Dish, and pass the Liquor through a Sieve, and fill the Dish with it; garnishing with Turnips, cut in Dice, boil'd tender, and then fry'd in Hog's-Lard, and sliced Lemon, or you may bake your Rump of Beef, if you will, for it is much the same. And this way you may likewise bake or stew a Leg of Beef, or an Ox-Cheek, only break the Bones of the Leg of Beef, and take out all the Bones of the Ox-Cheek, and take especially Care to clean it, for it requires some nicety to do it well.

Pepper-Mint Water, From the same.

Take Pepper-Mint six handfuls, cut it a little, and infuse it two Days in six Quarts of clean Spirit; then draw it off in a cold Still, marking every Bottle, as it fills, with a Number, for the first Bottle will be far the strongest, the second less strong, and the third weaker than the second; and so as we draw off more, they will be still weaker, till at last it becomes almost insipid, and somewhat sourish, but take none of that; then cover the Mouth of your Bottles with Papers prick'd full of Holes, and let them stand a Day or two; then pour your first Bottle into a large earthen glaz'd Pan; and to that the second, and then the third, and the fourth, and so on, till by mixing they all become of a sufficient strength; then put them in Bottles, with a Knob or two of double-refin'd Loaf-Sugar, and cork them close. This is an incomparable pleasant Dram, tasting like Ice, or Snow, in the Mouth, but creates a fine warmth in the Stomach, and yields a most refreshing Flavour.

This Sort of Mint is hard to be met with; but is lately cultivated in some Physick Gardens at Mitcham. It must be kept well weeded, and the top of the Bed, where it grows, must, when we cut it, be pricked up, a little, with a small Fork, or the Earth made fine with a Trowel; because the Runners, of this sort of Mint, shoot along upon the Surface of the Ground, and so at the Joints strike Root, which is contrary to other Sorts of Mint, which shoot their Runners under ground.

Damson-Wine to imitate Claret. From the same.

Take nine Gallons of Water, make it scalding hot, and pour it upon six and thirty Pounds of Malaga Raisins well pick'd from the Stalks. The Raisins should be sound, or they will spoil your Wine. While the Water is yet hot, put into the Liquor half a Peck of Damsons full ripe, and pick'd clean of the Stalks and Leaves, to each Gallon of Liquor; then stir them all together in the open Tub we make this Infusion in, and continue stirring them twice a Day for six Days. Keep this Tub cover'd with a Cloth all that time: then let it stand five or six Days longer, without stiring, and then draw it off: and if it is not deep-colour'd enough, put a little Syrup of Mulberries to it, and work it with a piece of White-Bread toasted, and spread with Yeast or Barm, in an open Vessel; and then tun it, keeping the Bung of the Vessel open till the Wine has done singing in the Cask. Then slop it close, and let it stand till it is clear, which will be in two or three Months; then draw it off. Some will just give their Damsons a scald in the Water before they pour it on the Raisins, which is a good way.

To Cure a Lap-Dog, when he continues drowsy some Days, and cannot eat.
From the same.

If you find a Lap-Dog to be sleepy, and will not take his Victuals for two or three Days; or if he eats, and as often discharges it soon after; take a large Tea-spoon-full of Rum or Brandy, and as much Water, and holding his Head up, and his Mouth open with one Hand, pour it down his Throat. This is quantity enough for one of the smallest Dogs, and will cure him in less than half an Hour; but as the Dogs are larger, you may give to the biggest a large spoonful of Rum or Brandy equally mix'd with Water, and so in proportion to the size of the Dog. It is a sure Remedy.

Dog-Grass, or Couch-Grass, or Twitch-Grass, necessary to be had, growing in Pots in London, to cure Lap-Dogs, that are sick, in the Summer. From the same.

Couch-Grass is one of the Gardener's Plagues, and is in every Garden too much. Take a Clump of this, and set it in a large Garden-Pot, and letting it stand as airy as possible, water it gently every other Morning. There is one sort of it, which is finely variegated, the Leaves appearing like striped Ribbons. This fine sort is at the Ivy-House at Hoxton, where it may be put in Pots at any time. This, or the other, should be put to a Dog, at any time, when he is sick, and he will eat it greedily, and cure himself; but for want of this Help, which favourite Lap-Dogs in London want, they lose their briskness. I believe it would be worth some poor Woman's while to sell this Grass, in London, where so many fine Lap-Dogs are kept, and indulged so much, that they cannot be taken abroad to search their Physick; while those of the larger kind take their way abroad, in the Mornings, at their pleasure. This, Sir, I send you with some other Receipts, because Dogs are not a little useful about a Farm, and the little ones are no less agreeable to their Keepers. And I am sure, if you publish these, they will prove very acceptable to many Ladies, and Gentlemen, who are Admirers of these faithful Creatures.

I am, &c. J. L.

Lisbon or Portugal-Cakes. From the same_,_

Take a Pound of double-refin'd Loaf-Sugar beaten fine, and past through a fine Sieve. Mix this with a Pound of fine Flour; then rub into these a Pound of fresh or new Butter, till your Sugar and Flour looks like Bread-Crumbs; then add, two or three spoonfulls of Orange-Flower-Water, and about ten spoonfuls of Canary-Wine: then beat ten Eggs, till their Whites are whipt to Snow, and mix the Eggs, with the rest, with a quarter of a Pound of blanched Almonds beaten in a Marble Mortar, with some Orange-Flower Water; and when you have butter'd your Pans well, fill them half full with this Mixture, and bake them, if you make them without Currans, or else fill the Pans fuller, first plumping the Currans, which should be in proportion, as you please.

Imperial Florentine. From Mr. Byecorf at Augsburgh.

Cut the leanest part of a Leg of Veal, in thin Slices, and beat them with the Back of a Knife, as you would do Scots Collups; then season the Cutlets with Cloves, Pepper beaten fine to powder, some Pepper and Salt, with some Nutmeg grated, a little dry'd sweet Marjoram powder'd, or some sweet Basil. Lay this Mixture pretty thick upon them, and roll them up with a little Piece of fat Bacon, in the middle; then lay in your Paste to the Dish, and over the Bottom strew a little Pepper, Salt, and Nutmeg, with some Balls of farced Meat, with bits of Butter, placed here and there. Put in then your rolls of Veal, with some Cocks-Combs blanched, a quarter of a Pint of Mushroom Buttons pickled, some Slices of Lemon, with half a Pint of White Wine, and about a Pint of Water; then close your Pye, and when it is baked, serve it hot. N.B. Before you close it, put some bits of Butter on the top of your Rolls of Meat.

To make Farced Meat, for the foregoing Florentine. From the same.

Take the Lean of a Leg of Veal, chop it small, and beat it well in a Marble Mortar, with as much Fat of the Kidney of Veal; and then put some Pepper, Salt, Cloves, Nutmeg, Powder of dry'd sweet Marjoram, and some Mushrooms, chopt as you please; then add as many Eggs, beaten as you think proper, with some grated Bread, to make it into a Paste, and roll this Mixture into Balls. Some instead of the Kidney-Fat of Veal, will chop the same quantity of fat Bacon.

To make a Tart of white Beet-Cards. From the same.

Take some white Beet-Cards, (or Leaves) as much Spinach-Leaves, and the same quantity of French Sorrel, which has a round Leaf. Chop these small, or if you beat them all together in a Marble Mortar, it is better; then strain out the Juice, and put it amongst the same proportion, or quantity, of the same Herbs, fresh cut, that is, put the Liquor to as many Herbs as you cut before, and shred them; then add to them about five Ounces of good Sugar, and you may put as much Currans. Mix these well, and bake them; then pour over it, while it is hot, some Cream that has been boil'd thick, and serve it hot: but if you use raw Cream, from the Dairy, you must mix it with the Ingredients, and then strew fine powder'd Sugar over it, but serve it hot, let it be which way you will.

To make a Preserve of Quinces, white in Jelly. From the same.

Make a Syrup of Golden-Pippins, or Golden-Rennets; and to make that, pare your Apples, and core them, but never use two sorts together, for one will be soft before the other is half done. Always take this for a Rule in Apples, Onions, and Turnips; they should be all of one kind, and all from the same Place, or else you will be disappointed. Boil your Apples with their weight in Sugar, and as much Water as will mix with it: boil this to a Jelly, and in the mean time, pare your Quinces, and cut them in Quarters, taking them clear off the Core; then boil them, first in fair Water, till they are a little tender, and then put them into the boiling Syrup, and keep them gently boiling half an Hour, or what one might more properly call stewing. If the Quinces are not then clear, boil them again, the next Day, in the same Liquor; and when the Quinces are as clear as they can be, which is never very much like other Fruits, but we should rather say tender, put them into Gallypots, or Glasses, and pour the Syrup, or Jelly, over them, to keep; and as soon as they are cold, then put Papers over them.

To Candy whole Orange, or Lemon-Peels.

Take some of the fairest Oranges, or Lemons, and cut a small hole in the top of them; then scoop out all the Pulp, as clean as possible; lay these in Water to steep eight or ten Days, shifting them to fresh Waters twice a Day; then boil them in several Waters, till they are tender enough to run a Straw through them. Then take one Pound of double-refin'd Loaf-Sugar to each Pound of Peel, and a Quart of Water: then make your Syrup, and boil your Peels in it eight or ten Minutes, and let them stand in your Syrup five or six Days, in an earthen glaz'd Vessel, for it would spoil in a Brass or Copper Pan: then to every Pound put one Pound more of Sugar into your Syrup, and boil your Peels in it, till they are clear; then put them into Gallypots, and boil your Syrup till it is almost of a Candy height, and pour it upon your Peels; and when it is cold, cover it. The same manner they preserve the Peels of green Oranges, Lemons, and Limes, in Barbadoes.

To stew Soles. From Yarmouth.

Take the largest Soles you can get, gut them, and skin them; lay them then into a Stew-pan, and pour in about a Pint of good Beef Gravey, and as much Claret; some bits of Lemon-Peel, an Anchovy or two, a stick of Horse-Radish, a bunch of sweet Herbs, a large Onion, half a large Nutmeg, some Cloves and Mace, whole Pepper, and Salt, with a little bit of Butter. Then stew these till the Fish is enough, and pour off the Liquor, through a Sieve, and thicken it with burnt Butter, having first put to it the Juice of a Lemon. Then pour the Sauce over the Fish, and garnish with Lemon sliced, and the Roots of red Beets pickled and sliced, with Horse-Radish scraped, and fry'd Bread.

A Hash of raw Beef. From Mr. Moring at the Blue-Posts Temple-Bar.

Cut some thin Slices of tender Beef, and put them in a Stew-Pan, with a little Water, a bunch of sweet Herbs, some Lemon-Peel, an Onion, with some Pepper, Salt, and some Nutmeg. Cover these close, and let them stew till they are tender; then pour in a Glass or two of Claret; and when it is warm, clear your Sauce of the Onion, Herbs, &c. and thicken it with burnt Butter. It is an excellent Dish. Serve it hot, and garnish with Lemon diced, and red Beet-Roots, Capers, and such like.

Thin Beef-Collups stew'd. From Oxford.

Cut raw Beef in thin Slices, as you would do Veal, for Scots Collups; lay them in a Dish, with a little Water, a Glass of Wine, a Shallot, some Pepper and Salt, and a little sweet Marjoram powdered; then clap another Dish over that, having first put a thin slice or two of fat Bacon among your Collups: then set your Mess, so as to rest upon the backs of two Chairs, and take six Sheets of whited-brown Paper, and tear it in long Pieces; and then lighting one of them, hold it under the Dish, till it burns out, then light another, and so another till all your Paper is burnt; and then your Stew will be enough, and full of Gravey. Some will put in a little Mushroom Gravey, with the Water, and the other Ingredients, which is yet a very good way.

Stew'd Beef-Steaks. From the Spring-Gardens at Vaux-Hall, Surrey.

Take good Rump-Beef Steaks, and season them with Pepper and Salt; then lay them into the Pan, and pour in a little Water; then add a bunch of sweet Herbs a few Cloves, an Anchovy, a little Verjuice, an Onion, and a little Lemon-Peel, with a little bit of Butter, or fat Bacon, and a Glass of White Wine. Cover these close, and stew them gently, and when they are tender, pour away the Sauce, and strain it; then take out the Steaks, and flour them, and fry them; and when you put them in the Dish, thicken the Sauce, and pour it over them. This way was much approved.

To make Cologn's-Geneva. From Cologn.

Take good Brandy, one Gallon; then take two Pounds of Juniper-berries fresh gather'd, and full ripe. Press these till you perceive a greenish Liquor come from them; then put them into the Brandy, and let them remain about ten Days: then pour them through a Cloth of coarse Linnen, and squeeze it, and when you have the Liquor, if you find it too strong, you may add to it some more Brandy, and half a Pound of fine Sugar to a Gallon. Then put it in Flasks, or Bottles.

Then take the Pressings, and infuse them again in Brandy, for six or seven Days, and distil them. This they call double Cologn's Gin, and the best is sold in Holland, at three Shillings and Six-pence per Quart.

To make Scots-Snuff, or pure Tobacco-Snuff. From Mr. Hyslop.

Take the Leaves of good Tobacco, and spread them open; then dry them gently in the Sun, or before the Fire, and strip them from the Stalks; when the leafy part will crumble, between the Fingers; then put it into a Mill, and with a Pestle rolling about it, the Tobacco will presently be ground, as fine as Snuff; or else, if you have never a Mill, when your Tobacco will break between the Fingers, lay it on an oaken Table, and pass the flat side of a Knife over it, backwards and forwards, as if you was whetting it, pressing it hard, and you will make fine Snuff. This I mention here, because, sometimes, the Snuff-takers are without Snuff, and remote from any Place where it may be had, and would give any Money for it; which was my Case, when I learn'd this Receipt, and by the last Means was presently supplied: we may make it likewise of cut Tobacco dry'd before the Fire.

Or if we raise Tobacco in our Gardens, pick the Leaves from the Stalks, towards the Root, when they are full grown, tie six in a bunch together, and hang them up to dry in the Shade; then dip them in Water, or some Beer or Ale, and hang them up again to dry, and then press the Leaves one upon another, in their Bunches, in a Box or Tub, as hard as possible; and in a few Months time, they will make very good Snuff, being order'd as above directed.

Butter turned to Oil recovered. From Mrs. M. N.

There are some Lands, as well as some Treatments of Butter in the Dairy, that makes the Butter so very fat and greasy, that it is hard to melt, without running to Oil; while, on the other hand, there is a sort of Butter, which cuts as firm as Wax; and even this will sometimes turn to Oil in the melting, but very seldom. However, when it so happens, pour your oil'd Butter into a Porringer, and letting it stand a little, melt a little fresh, and as soon as it is liquid, pour into it, by gentle degrees, at times, some of the Butter that was oil'd before, keeping your Sauce-pan shaking all the while; and if you find it any way difficult to be recovered, pour in a little Milk, and shake them together, and it will recover. Memorandum, A Sauce-pan that is very thin at the Bottom is apt to oil Butter, let it be ever so good.

Orange or Lemon-Cakes. From the same.

Take some preserv'd Orange or Lemon-Peels, wash'd from their Syrup; then beat them, in a Marble Mortar, to a Pulp, adding a little Orange-Flower Water to them, and a very little Gum-Arabic to it powder'd, this will become a Paste; then mould it into Cakes, with double-refined Sugar beaten fine, and dry them; they must then be laid in Boxes, between sheets of white Paper, and kept in a dry Place.

To dry Plums, of any sort, without Sugar. From the same.

Take a Wyre Sieve, and gather your Plums, not too ripe, nor in the heat of the Day; run a Needle through the Skin of each of them, and lay them on the Sieve, so as not to touch one another. Put your Sieve then into a declining Oven, and let it stand twelve Hours; then set it by, and repeat the same the second and third time, and if the Plums are large, then it may be they will require the fourth or fifth time; but turn them every time, when you are going to put them in the Oven. They will dry by this Means so well, that you may keep them all the Winter, for use, in Boxes, in a dry Place. Memorandum, Some of them will candy on the Outsides. The Mussel-Plum is a very good one for this use.

The Shropshire and Worcestershire-Dish. From the same.

Sir,

If you would please all People, by the several Receipts you publish, you ought to have the particular Dish that is the Favourite of every County. In Worcestershire and Shropshire, the following is in esteem, and I believe you will oblige several Gentlemen and Ladies of these Parts, if you would insert it in some of your Works.

Take some good middling Bacon, and fry it; then put in some Calf's Liver, and cut it in thick Pieces, pepper it, and salt it; and when it is enough, for it must not be fry'd hard, have ready prepared some Cabbage-Lettuce, some white Beet-Cards, or Beet-Leaves, and some Spinach-Leaves, and chop them together, with some Parsley, but not too small; then chop some Onion, and mix with the rest; then throw them into your Frying pan, with a piece of Butter, when the Bacon and Liver is out, and fry them till they are tender, and as brown as may be; putting in a spoonful of Verjuice, or the Juice of a Lemon, a little before they are enough. And having kept the Liver and Bacon hot all the while, pour these Herbs over them, which ought to be in good quantity.

Fine Cakes to keep. From the same.

Take a Pound of fine Sugar powder'd, and somewhat less than a Quart of Flour. Rub these with a Pound of fresh Butter, and mix it with three or four Yolks of Eggs, with some Orange-Flower-Water, and a little Ale-Yeast: set this Paste before the Fire to rise, and roll out your Cakes thin, while the Paste is hot; then cut them into what Shapes you please, and prick them on the top, and bake them in a gentle Oven. They will keep a long time and are very good.

To make Penzance-Cakes. From the same.

Take the Yolks of Eggs well beaten, put to them some Mace finely powder'd, with a few spoonfuls of Wine, a little Salt, and as much Sugar as you please; then add as much Flour as is necessary, and a small quantity of Ale-Yeast, and work your Dough pretty stiff; then add some fresh Butter, broken in little bits, and work it in till all the Paste has partaken of it, and the Dough becomes as stiff as at first. Make your Cakes then, and bake them. They will keep some time.

To make Crystal candy'd Sweet-meats. From the same.

When we propose to make these candy'd Sweet-meats, we must first know what Fruits, Flowers, &c. are proper for them, and how those ought to be gathered and prepared.

First of all, to begin with the Flowers. Take Orange-Flowers, or Lemon, or Citron-Flowers; gather them, when the Dew is upon them, in the Morning, because the Leaves of them will be then full, and then they are best to use, when the Leaves are pick'd off, and then the Dew will be gone; but if they lie a Day, they will shrink, turn bitter, and of a yellowish brown Colour. Take these Leaves fresh pick'd, and pour the following Composition upon them.

You may take also some Orange, or Lemon, or Citron, preserved, and dry'd, and cut them in small pieces. Or Apricots dry'd and cut into small pieces, or such sorts as are a little hard in themselves will do. If one was to cut some Pine-Apple, or Ananas, simply or preserv'd, and cut that in pieces, it would be entomb'd in a Rock of Sugar; or Currans preserv'd upon their Stalks may do, if you think it worth while; but Orange-Flower-Leaves do very well. It is a fine Candy to carry in the Pocket.

Then to begin your Business. Take one Pound of double-refined Loaf-Sugar beat small, and finely sifted; mix this with four or five spoonfuls of Orange-Flower-Water, and about half a Drachm of Gum-Arabic finely beaten; then put three spoonfuls of White Wine, and mix all together, and boil them in a glazed earthen Vessel till the Liquor will hardly run, or at least run in Ropes; then have small Jars of earthen Ware glazed, and put into each of them the several sorts of Fruits, and Flowers, you would inclose in candy'd Sugar, making those Jars very hot, and immediately pour the Liquor upon them, and stop them close; then put the Jars into a Stove, for a fortnight or more, and you may then break the Jars, and your several Fruits and Flowers will be inclosed in a crystal like Candy, such as white Sugar Candy. And then with a slight blow of an Hammer, break these Candies into Pieces of about a Finger's length, and keep them in Glasses stopt close, in a dry Place, and they will remain good several Years. The little Pots must be broken of course.

To make a Hackin. From a Gentleman in Cumberland.

Sir,

There are some Counties in England, whose Customs are never to be set aside; and our Friends in Cumberland, as well as some of our Neighbours in Lancashire, and else-where, keep them up. It is a Custom with us every Christmas-Day in the Morning, to have, what we call an Hackin, for the Breakfast of the young Men who work about our House; and if this Dish is not dressed by that time it is Day-light, the Maid is led through the Town, between two Men, as fast as they can run with her, up Hill and down Hill, which she accounts a great shame. But as for the Receipt to make this Hackin, which is admired so much by us, it is as follows.

Take the Bag or Paunch of a Calf, and wash it, and clean it well with Water and Salt; then take some Beef-Suet, and shred it small, and shred some Apples, after they are pared and cored, very small. Then put in some Sugar, and some Spice beaten small, a little Lemon-Peel cut very fine, and a little Salt, and a good quantity of Grots, or whole Oat-meal, steep'd a Night in Milk; then mix these all together, and add as many Currans pick'd clean from the Stalks, and rubb'd in a coarse Cloth; but let them not be wash'd. And when you have all ready, mix them together, and put them into the Calf's-Bag, and tye them up, and boil them till they are enough. You may, if you will, mix up with the whole, some Eggs beaten, which will help to bind it. This is our Custom to have ready, at the opening of the Doors, on Christmas-Day in the Morning. It is esteem'd here; but all that I can say to you of it, is, that it eats somewhat like a Christmas-Pye, or is somewhat like that boil'd. I had forgot to say, that with the rest of the Ingredients, there should be some Lean of tender Beef minced small.

The Northampton-Cake.

Take a Peck of Flour, and a Pound of fine Sugar beaten well into Powder, and sifted; then add a quarter of an Ounce of Cloves, half an Ounce of Cinnamon, and a large Nutmeg, and beat them to powder; put to this some Orange-Flower-Water, or Rose-Water; then take five or six Pounds of Currans well pick'd, and rub'd dry with a coarse Cloth, but not wash'd. Put these with your Fruit, and a little Salt into the Flour; then take as much Cream as you think proper: then melt two Pounds of Butter, to mix with it, and add a Pint of Canary-Wine, and kneed it with some fresh Ale-Yeast, till it rises under your hand. Have your Oven hot before you put it in the Hoop for Baking.

Of the Baking of Fruit. From Mr. L. M.

It is to be observed, that all Fruits that are ripe require little baking, and those which are of the hardest, or most unripe Sorts, ought to have a long and gentle baking. In Pears, for example, when we have some of those, which ripen in the Autumn, they will bake with a Tart; for as they are ripe of themselves, they require very little baking, for Ripeness is one degree tending to Rottenness; and as that is done by heat gently, so the Oven brings that to a certain height, suddenly, with its safeguard of Sugar; that the Fruit comes to its full flavour, with the additional beauty, from the Sugar. It would have done a great deal by Nature itself, if the Tree had stood in a place agreeable; but much more would it be for those baking Pears, as we call them, if they had the advantage of a good Climate; one may guess then how much difference there is between one and the other. In the tough and hard Pears, one ought to bake them twice, that is, once with a little Water and Sugar, in as hot an Oven as they bake Bread in; and then put them in Pyes, and bake them over again, so will they become tender, well tasted, and of a fine colour. But be it as it will, as soon as either of these come out of the Oven, pour some Cream over them, and mix it with them, if they are to be served hot, mashing the Fruit all the while; but if they are to be served cold, then only pour some Cream over them, when they just come from the Oven, and let it remain till you serve it cold.

There is one way which is practised by some, and that is, to break the hard Pears, just when they are taken out of the Oven, in the Pye; for else the outsides, though the Rind is off, will be hard, and tough: then pour on the Cream. It is to be noted, that all ripe Apples require less baking, and less Sugar, than the hard Apples, which do not become ripe till some Months afterwards. When an Apple, or Pear, for example, is as ripe as it can be in our Climate, it will have some softness, and some sweetness in it, and therefore will require less baking, as baking is only a sort of ripening; and so on the other hand: but we are providentially provided with both Apples and Pears, which are, some ripe sooner, and some ripe later; even that by the end of July, we have some ripe, and some remain hard and sour till June. We ought be apprised of the Sorts, to take them in their several Seasons, and not to take the Winter Fruits, for baking, when we have ripe Fruits by us. Many thousand Bushels of Fruit are lost for want of this Caution.

So at any time, when you use Apples, or Pears, for Tarts, Puddings, or Sauces, let them be all of one Sort, and ripe; for, if they are ripe, or towards it, they will soon soften; and if you put two Sorts together, one will be in Pulp very soon, and the other will be hard for an Hour or two, and at length will not be soft. Memorandum, This is not to be disregarded.

To make Paste. From Mrs. Peasly.

There are many sorts of Paste made, and among them, are some which are made with Eggs, according to the old fashion; but these are always hard, when they are baked, though they will fly and crackle in the Mouth, but they taste like Sticks: while, on the other side, leave out your Eggs, and use Butter and Water only, as in the following Receipts, and your Paste will melt in the Mouth, and be agreeable to the Taste.

If you would have a sweet Paste; then take half a Pound of Butter, and rub
it into about a Pound of Flour, with two or three Ounces of double-refined
Sugar powder'd, and make it a Paste, with cold Milk, some Sack and Brandy.
This is a very good one.

You may also make an hot Paste, for minced Pyes, or such like, by taking a quantity of Flour as you like, and break a Pound or two of Butter into a large Sauce-pan of Water; and when the Butter is melted, make an hollow in the midst of the Flour, and scumming off the Butter, throw it, at times, into the Flour, with some of the boiling hot Water along with it; then, when you have enough for your use, work it into a stiff Paste, and lay it before the Fire, cover'd with a Cloth, and cut off such bits as you want, just when you are going to use them. This Paste does very well for raised Pyes. Some will make this Paste by breaking in a Pound of Butter into a quarter of a Peck of Flour, and then pouring on it some scalding hot Water, enough to work it to a stiff Paste. As for Tarts, one may make the following Puff-Paste. Rub in some Butter into your Flour, and make it into a Paste with Water, and when it is moulded, roll it out till it is about half an Inch thick; then put bits of Butter upon it, about half an Inch asunder, and fold your Paste together, and then fold it again: then roll it again till it becomes of the thickness it was before; and then lay bits of Butter on it, as before directed, and fold it as mention'd above, and roll it again to the thickness of half an Inch; then put on the rest of your Butter, and fold it up, and roll it for the last time, doubling it, and rolling it twice, before you use it. This is very good for Puffs, Puddings, or Petty-Patees.

As for Meat-Pyes, or Pasties, they require another sort of Paste, which is made thus. Rub seven Pounds of Butter into a Peck of Flour, but not too small; then make it into a Paste with Water. It is good for Venison-Pasties, and such like great Pyes.

To dress a Dish of Fish in the best manner. From the same.

To make one of these grand Dishes, you ought always to have some capital sort of Fish, for the middle of the Dish; such as a Turbut, a Jowl of fresh Salmon, a Cod's Head, or a Pike boiled; and this must be adorn'd either with Flounders, Whitings, Soles, Perch, Smelts, or Gudgeons, or Bourn Trouts, which are the small River Trouts, or young Salmon-Fry, according as you can meet with them. This kind of Dish is call'd a Bisque of Fish.

To boil Fresh Salmon.

If you have fresh Salmon, you wash it with Salt and Water, and according to the Fashion, leave all the Scales on, though some take them off, to prevent that trouble at the Table; for the Skin of the Salmon. is the fattest part of the Fish, and is liked by most People. Lay your Fish thus prepared, into the Pan, where you boil it, and pour in Water, with a sixth part of Vinegar, a little Salt, and a stick of Horse-Radish; this should be boiled pretty quick: thus far for boiling fresh Salmon. The grand Sauce for it you will see at the end of these Receipts, for preparing the several sorts of Fish for the Bisque but if it is served alone, then let the Sauce be as follows. Take a Pint of Shrimps, a Pint of Oysters and their Liquor, and half a Pint of pickled Mushrooms; or else take Shrimps, and the Bodies of two middling Sea-Crabs, or of a couple of Lobsters, the Tail of the Lobsters to be cut in Dice, but use which you have by you. If you have Oysters, stew them a little, in their own Liquor, with some Mace, and whole Pepper, then lay by the Oysters, and put Mushroom Pickle to the Liquor, and dissolve two Anchovies in it; then melt what quantity of Butter you think fit, and mix your prepared Liquor with it, adding a little White Wine, or that may be left out. I should take notice, that just before you melt your Butter, put your Oysters, Shrimps, and Mushrooms, &c. into your prepared Liquor to boil up, and then mix all together. Note, The Bodies of the Crabs being well stirred in the Liquor, will thicken it, and render the whole very agreeable.

To boil Turbut, Flounders, or Plaise, Pike, or a Cod's-Head, or Whitings.

When your Fish are gutted and well wash'd: put them upon your Fish-Plate; the Jacks or Pikes, whether small or great, must have their Tails skewer'd into their Mouths, so that they make a round figure, which is the Fashion. Then put your Fish into the Kettle, into as much Water as will cover them. Put into this Water, an Onion, with some Cloves stuck in it, some Mace, some whole Pepper, a little bunch of sweet Herbs, a stick of Horse-Radish, and half a Lemon. When your Liquor boils, add a little Vinegar, or Verjuice; and when your Fish are boiled enough, let them drain before the Fire. The Sauce for these, if they are served singly, is that directed for the Salmon, or else some melted Butter, Anchovies dissolved in Water, over the Fire, and some Shrimps; or for want of them, if you can get any of the small Crabs, such as they sell in London, about eight or ten a Penny, and no bigger in their Bodies than to contain the quantity of a Golden-Pippin. Take the Inside of the Bodies of these, and thicken your Sauce with them. Or if you have Cray-fish, take the Bodies of them, and mix them well with your Sauce, and cut the Tails in small bits, as big as Pease. The foregoing way of boiling Fish gives them a relish.

To fry Soles, Flounders, Plaise, Whitings, Smelts, and Gudgeons, or such like.

Take a large quantity of Hog's-Seam, or Lard, and melt it in a Pan, till it is very hot; then put in your Fish, prepared as follows; but first you may fry some Bread, in Lengths, as big as one's Finger, to drain for a Garnish.

As for Soles, skin them, and gut them, then flour them well, and toss them
into the Pan, turning them once, when you see the upper side of a yellow
Colour. When they are enough, put them into a Cullendar to drain before the
Fire.

Flounders are only to be gutted, and the Skins wash'd with Water and Salt, and being well dry'd with a Cloth, flour them, and fling them into the Pan, and use them as you did the Soles.

The Plaise are to be done in the same manner as the Flounders.

Whitings must be treated in the same manner as the former.

Smelts must be only rub'd with a coarse Cloth, and then flour'd, and thrown into the Pan.

Gudgeons must be scaled and gutted, well dry'd and flour'd, and thrown into the hot Lard: but take care in all these that you have a quick Fire under them, and not too many in the Pan at one time.

You have now all your Furniture for your Bisque of Fish; but to fry them still crisper, and better, use Sallad-Oil instead of Hogs-Lard; or if you have neither of these, you may use good dripping of Beef, or Mutton, but there must be enough of it, and it should be as hot as possible, in the Pan, when you throw your Fish in. Serve these with melted Butter, and Anchovy Liquor, with Shrimps, or Oysters, if they are single.

To broil Whitings.

Clean your Whitings, with Water and Salt, after they are gutted, and drying them thoroughly, flour them well, then lay them on the Grid-Iron, first rubbing it with a little Chalk. As you find them enough on one side, turn them, and serve them, if they go to the Table alone, with Butter melted, some Anchovy Liquor, and Oyster Sauce; these may make one of your grand Dishes of Fish, but fry'd and boiled is enough, because there is never a Dish of this kind, but there are many more at the same Treat, which will give the Cook a great deal of difficulty, and besides you must still in this Dish have some Spitchcot-Eels.

N.B. I forbear to mention here the manner of dresing Spitchcot-Eels, as they are already set down in the first part of this Book.

When you fry Whitings, skewer their Tails in their Mouths; and some take off their Skins.

The Grand Dish of Fish, and its Sauce.

When we have prepared these things, with regard to the grand Dish we design, then make the following Sauce: viz.

Sauce for a Bisque of Fish.

Take a Pint of Gravey, two or three spoonfuls of Mushroom Katchep, and a spoonful or two of Mushroom Pickle; then add about a Gill of White Wine, half an Onion, a slice of Lemon with the Peel, two Anchovies shred, some Cloves, and Mace. When these have boiled half a quarter of an Hour, take out the Onion, and Lemon, and thicken your Liquor, with about three Pounds of Butter, rub'd in a little Flour; then put in the Body of a Crab, or Lobster, Shrimps, Oysters, and Mushrooms, and it is ready to pour over your Fish: but some rather chuse to serve this Sauce in Basons, lest it be too high for every Palate. However, when you have disposed your Fish well in the Dish, garnish with fry'd Bread, Horse-Radish scraped, fry'd Parsley, Lemon sliced and pickled, red Beet-Root sliced, and serve it up hot. If your Sauce is serv'd in Basons; then take care to have one Bason of plain Butter: but if all your Company happens to like the rich Sauce, your Dish of fish will make a much better appearance to have some of the Sauce pour'd over it, before you lay on your Garnish. Remember to lay your Spitchcot Eels near the edge of the Dish.

To broil Herrings, so as to prevent their rising in the Stomach. From the same.

Take fresh Herrings, scale them, gut them, and wash them; and when they are well dry'd with a Cloth, strew them with flour of Ginger, as you would any Fish with Flour, then broil them; and when they are enough, the taste of the Ginger is quite lost: then serve them with Claret, Butter, Salt, and Mustard, made into a Sauce, and they will not at all disturb the Stomach.

A white Fricassee of Rabbits. From the same.

Take three or four young Rabbits and cut them to pieces, then put them in a Stew-pan, with four Ounces of Butter; then season them with some Lemon-Peel grated, a little Thyme, a little sweet Marjoram, Pepper, Salt, and a little Jamaica, Pepper beaten fine. Let these be close cover'd, and stew them gently, till they are tender; then take about half a Pint of Veal-Broth, an Onion, some Lemon, a Sprig of sweet Marjoram, and some Spice, to your mind, and put to it half a Gill of White Wine. Boil these together six or seven Minutes, then pour away the Butter, in the Stew-pan, and strain your Veal Gravey through a Sieve; then beat the Yolks of four Eggs, with half a Pint of Cream. Then put some of the Broth, by degrees, to the Eggs and Cream, keeping them stirring, lest they curdle, and you may put to it some Parsley boil'd tender, and shred small; then put it to the Rabbits, and toss them up thick with Butter, adding some pickled Mushrooms, and serve them hot with a Garnish of sliced Lemon, and red Beet-Root pickled.

A Neat's-Tongue roasted. From the same.

Take a large Neat's-Tongue, that has lain three Weeks in Salts mixed in the following manner. Take a quarter of a Pound of Salt-Petre, half a Pound of Bay-Salt, and three Pints of common Salt. This is enough to salt four Tongues: let them be rubb'd well with this Mixture, and kept in a cool place. Take, I say, one of these Tongues, and boil it till the Skin will come off; and when it is stript of its Skin, stick it with Cloves, about an Inch asunder, then put it on a Spit, and wrap a Veal-Cawl over it, till it is enough; then take off the Cawl, and just froth it up, and serve it in a Dish with Gravey. Note, The Cawl will keep the outside tender, which otherwise would be hard. One must serve with it, in Saucers, of the following: Grate a Penny-Loaf into about a Pint of Water, and half as much Claret; then boil it thick, with two or three chips of Cinnamon, then sweeten it to your mind, as you please: strew some sifted raspings of Bread about the Dish, and garnish with Lemon sliced.

To dress a Cow-Heel. From the same.

Take out the Bones, and clean it, cut it to pieces, and wash it; then flour it, and strew over it a little Pepper and Salt, then fry it brown in Hog's-Lard, made very hot in the Pan. Prepare at the same time some small Onions boiled whole, till they are tender, and pull off as many of the Coats or Skins, till you see them pure white; then make a Sauce of Gravey, some White-Wine, Nutmeg, and a little whole Spice, with a little Salt and Pepper, and thicken it with burnt Butter. Let your Onions, when they are skin'd, be made hot in Milk, and lay them whole in the Dish, with the Cow-Heel, and pour the Sauce over the whole. Some who have strong Stomachs will slice Onions, and flouring them well, fry them with with the Cow-Heel, but this must be fry'd in Butter.

To make Marmalade of Quinces. From the same.

Take the large Portugal Quinces, pare them, and take out the Cores; then cut each Quince in eight Parts, and throw them in Water; then boil the Parings, and such of the Quinces as are of the worse sort, in two Quarts of Water, till the Liquor is reduced to half the quantity: when this is strain'd, put the Liquor into your Preserving-Pan, with a Pound of fine Sugar powder'd, with two Pounds of Quinces: boil these gently, till they are tender. Then if you design your Marmalade for mixing with Apples in Pyes or Tarts, put to them a Pound more of Sugar to each two Pounds; break them with a Spoon, and boil them briskly, keeping them stirring all the while: then put them hot into the Gally-pot, when they are thick, and of a reddish Colour. To heighten their redness, and keep them from burning to the bottom, put into the Pan four or five pieces of pure Tin, as big as Half-Crowns. But if you would have your Marmalade fine for Glasses, then, when they are boil'd tender, take them out of the Liquor, and beat them well in a Marble Mortar, and rub them through a Sieve; then put to them a Pound of fine Sugar, and stir them well in the Liquor; boil them quick, stirring them all the while, till they grow thick.

Memorandum, While they are boiling the second time, put in some pieces of Tin, as before, and when they are enough, pour them hot into your Glasses or Cups, first taking out the Pieces of Tin; and when your Marmalade is cool, cover your Glasses and Cups with white Paper.

Boil'd Tench. From the same.

Take Tench, fresh from the Pond, gut them, and clear them from their Scales; then put them into a Stew-pan, with as much Water as will cover them, some Salt, some whole Pepper, some Lemon-Peel, a stick of Horse Radish, a bunch of sweet Herbs, and a few Cloves; then boil them till they are tender, and when they are enough, take some of the Liquor, and put to it a Glass of White Wine, and a little Lemon-juice, or Verjuice, and an Anchovy shred. Then boil it a few Minutes, and thicken it with Butter rubb'd in Flour, tossing up a Pint of Shrimps with the Sauce, and pour it over the Fish. Serve it with garnish of fry'd Bread, cut the length of one's Finger, some Slices of Lemon and Horse-Radish scraped, with some pickled Mushrooms, if you will, or you may toss up some of them in the Sauce.

To bake Tench. From Lady G.

Take your Tench, fresh from the Pond, gut them, and clean them from the Scales; then kill them, by giving them an hard stroke on the back of the Head, or else they will live for many Hours, and even jump out of the Pan in the Oven, when they are half enough. Then lay them in a Pan, with some Mushroom Katchep, some strong Gravey, half a Pint of pickled Mushrooms, as much White-Wine as Gravey, three or four large Shallots, an Anchovy or two, two or three slices of fat Bacon, some Pepper, Cloves, and Nutmeg, at pleasure, a little Salt, some Lemon-Peel, and a bunch of sweet Herbs; then break some bits of Butter, and lay them on your Fish, then cover all as close as you can, and give them an Hour's baking.

When they are enough, lay them in a hot Dish, and pour off the Liquor, and strain it, only preserving the Mushrooms; then add to it a spoonful of Lemon-Juice, and thicken your Sauce with the Yolks of four Eggs, beaten with Cream, and mix'd, by degrees, with the Sauce. Pour this over your Fish, and serve it hot with a Garnish of BeetRoots sliced, some slices of Lemon-Peel, and some Horse-Radish scraped.

To roast a Westphalia-Ham. From the same.

Boil a Westphalia-Ham, as tender as it will be, with the Gravey in it; then strip off the Skin, put it on a Spit, and having done it over with the Yolk of an Egg, strew it all over with raspings or chippings of Bread finely sifted, and mixt with a little Lemon-Peel grated. Baste it well when it is before the Fire, and drudge it frequently with the above Mixture till it is enough. Some, instead of Roasting it, will prepare it, with a good covering of the aforesaid Mixture, and set it an Hour in the Oven, which answers full as well. Then serve it, with boiled Pidgeons, Russia Cabbages, if you can get them, or Sprouts of Cabbages, curll'd, as big as Tennis-Balls, or Collyflowers, or Brocoli. This is an excellent Dish, especially, if the Cabbages, or Collyflowers, are toss'd up with Butter and Cream, but the Brocoli must only have the Butter pour'd over them.

A Neck of Mutton and Broth. From L. P. Esq.

The Method of this Broth was first from a mistake, where instead of boiling a Neck of Mutton, as directed, the Cook roasted it. The Gentleman was in a hurry for it, and call'd in half an Hour for his Neck of Mutton and Broth; but the Cook had only that Neck in the House; which she was roasting, and was then above half done: however, she takes it from the Spit, and cut it in pieces, which she presently set over the Fire, with the Gravey that came from it, with a small quantity of Water, and serv'd it up with some Turnips, as soon as possible. The Relish which the Meat had gain'd by roasting, gave the Broth so good a flavour, that it is recommended since that time, by the Gentlemen who eat of it, where-ever they go; but with this addition, that they take four or five Hertfordshire Turnips, pare them, and cut them in dice; then boil them in the Liquor with the half roasted Mutton; and when they are enough, take them out of the Liquor, and draining them a little, flour them, and adding a little Salt, fry them either in Butter very hot, or in Hog's-Lard, and then serve them with Pottage.

Boil'd Venison, with its Furniture. From Mr. L. L.

Take an Haunch of Venison, salt it well, and let it remain a Week, then boil it, and serve it with a furniture of Collyflowers, Russia Cabbages, some of the Hertfordshire Turnips cut in dice, and boiled in a Net, and toss'd up with Butter and Cream, or else have some of the yellow French Turnips, cut in dice, and boil'd like the former; or we might add some red Beet-Roots boiled in dice, and butter'd in the same manner. Place these regularly, and they will afford a pleasant Variety both to the Eye and the Taste.

Frogs, a white Fricassee of them. From Mr. Ganeau.

Take large Frogs, and cut off the hinder Legs, strip them of the Skin, and cut off the Feet, and boil them tender in a little Veal-Broth, with whole Pepper, and a little Salt, with a bunch of sweet Herbs, and some Lemon Peel. Stew these with a Shallot, till the Flesh is a little tender; then strain off the Liquor, and thicken it with Cream and Butter; then serve them hot with the Cream, and some Mushrooms pickled, toss'd up with the Sauce, they make a very good Dish, and their Bones being of a very fine Texture, are better to be eaten than those of Larks. But we have in many Places an Aversion to them, as, in some others, some People have to Mushrooms.

Frogs, in a brown Fricassee. From the same.

Prepare the Frogs as before, and flour them well; then put them into a Pan
of hot Lard, and fry them brown. Then take them and drain them from the
Liquor they were fry'd in, and make a Sauce for them of good Gravey, some
Lemon-Peel, a Shallot or two, some Spice beaten, a bunch of sweet Herbs, an
Anchovy, some pickled Mushrooms and their Liquor, and some Pepper and Salt.
Toss up these, thick with Butter, and pour the Sauce over them, putting
first a little Claret to it, and some Lemon-Juice. Garnish with broiled
Mushroom-Flaps, and Lemon sliced.

Snails, to be dressed with white Sauce. From the same.

Take the large German Snail, early in the Morning; put them, shells and all, into Salt and Water, for a few Hours, till they purge themselves: then put them into fresh Salt and Water, for a few Hours more, and repeat that a third time, then give them a gentle boil in Water and. Salt, in their Shells, and you may then pick them out, with a Pin, as you do Perwinkles, Then stew them in Veal-Broth, with some Cloves, a little Sack, some Mace, and a little Salt. Stew these a little while, and then pour over them this Sauce thicken'd with Cream and Butter, and grate some Nutmeg upon the Sauce, and serve them hot.

Snails, to be drest with brown Sauce. From the same.

Take the same sort of Snail, as above mention'd, and clean it as before; then give them one turn, when they are flour'd, in some hot Butter, or Lard, and drain them. Then pour into the Pan, when, the Liquor is out, some strong Gravey, a Glass of Claret, some Nutmeg, some Spices, and a little Salt, with a little Lemon-Peel grated; and when the Sauce is strong enough, then strain the Sauce, and thicken it with burnt Butter. Then serve them up hot, with a Garnish of sliced Lemon, and some Sippits fry'd in Lard.

A Gammon of a Badger roasted. From Mr. R. T. of Leicestershire.

The Badger is one of the cleanest Creatures, in its Food, of any in the World, and one may suppose that the Flesh of this Creature is not unwholesome. It eats like the finest Pork, and is much sweeter than Pork. Then, just when a Badger is killed, cut off the Gammons, and strip them; then lay them in a Brine of Salt and Water, that will bear an Egg, for a Week or ten Days; then boil it for four or five Hours, and then roast it, strewing it with Flour and rasped Bread sifted. Then put it upon a Spit, as you did before with the Westphalia Ham. Serve it hot with a Garnish of Bacon fry'd in Cutlets, and some Lemon in slices.

To make minc'd Pyes, or _Christmas-_Pyes. From Mrs. M. C.

Take an Ox-Heart, and parboil it, or a Neat's-Tongue, boil'd without drying or salting, or the Inside of a Surloin of Beef; chop this small, and put to each Pound two Pounds of clean Beef-Suet, cleaned of the Skins and Blood, and chop that as small as the former; then pare, and take the Cores out of eight large Apples, and chop them small, grate then a Two-penny-Loaf; and then add two or three Nutmegs grated, half an Ounce of fresh Cloves, as much Mace, a little Pepper and Salt, and a Pound and a half of Sugar; then grate in some Lemon and Orange-Peel, and squeeze the Juice of six Oranges, and two Lemons, with half a Pint of Sack, and pour this into the Mixture. Take care to put in two Pounds of Currans to every Pound of Meat, and mix it well; then try a little of it over the Fire, in a Sauce-pan, and as it tastes, so add what you think proper to it: put this in an earthen glaz'd Pan, and press it down, and you may keep it till Candlemas, if you make it at Christmas.

Memorandum, When you put this into your Pyes, press it down, and it will be like a Paste.

When you take these Pyes out of the Oven, put in a Glass of Brandy, or a
Glass of Sack or White Wine, into them, and stir it in them.

Plum-Pottage, or Christmas-Pottage. From the same.

Take a Leg of Beef, and boil it till it is tender in a sufficient quantity of Water, add two Quarts of red Wine, and two Quarts of old strong Beer; put to these some Cloves, Mace, and Nutmegs, enough to season it, and boil some Apples, pared and freed from the Cores into it, and boil them tender, and break them; and to every Quart of Liquor, put half a Pound of Currans pick'd clean, and rubb'd with a coarse Cloth, without washing. Then add a Pound of Raisins of the Sun, to a Gallon of Liquor, and half a Pound of Prunes. Take out the Beef, and the Broth or Pottage will be fit for use.

Amber-Rum, from Barbadoes; an extra-ordinary way of making it, from that Country.

Take the Preparation of the Scum and Dregs of the Sugar-Canes. Let them ferment, and distil them with the Leaves of the Platanus, or Plain-Tree; then put them into a Still again, and hang some Amber powder'd, in a Muslin Bag, in the Cap of the Still, and let all the Steam pass through that, and it will be incomparable good Rum.

A boiled Goose with its Garniture. From the same.

Take a young fat Goose, and salt it, and pepper it, for four Days or a Week; then boil it as you would do other Victuals, till it is tender; then take it from the Pot, and put about it some Hertfordshire Turnips boiled, being first cut in dice, some Carrots boiled, and cut in dice, some small Cabbage-Sprouts, some red Beet-Roots cut in dice, some French yellow Turnips cut in dice, or such other Roots, or Herbs, as you like best. Collyflowers, if they are in season, will do well; but they must all be toss'd up with Cream and Butter, except the Hertfordshire Turnips, which should, after they are boiled, be dry'd in a Cloth, and well flour'd; then fry them in hot Lard, or hot Butter, drain them well, and serve them with the same Sauce.

Memorandum, If you have any of the yellow French Turnips, cut them in dice to boil, and when they are enough, treat them in the same manner as you are directed, for the Hertfordshire Turnips. Take care in the buying of the Hertfordshire Turnips, for they are all white; but they require a longer boiling than the red-ringed Turnips: the red-rings are soft presently, when they are good, and the others are near an Hour in boiling, and, even then, feel hard to the Spoon.

Viper-Soup. From Mr. Ganeau.

Take Vipers, alive, and skin them, and cut off their Heads; then cut them in pieces, about two Inches in length, and boil them, with their Hearts, in about a Gallon of Water to eight Vipers, if they are pretty large. Put into the Liquor a little Pepper and Salt, and a Quart of White Wine to a Gallon of Liquor; then put in some Spice, to your mind, and chop the following Herbs, and put into it: Take some Chervill, some white Beet-Cards or Leaves, some Hearts of Cabbage-Lettuce, a Shallot, some Spinach-Leaves, and some Succory. Boil these, and let them be tender; then serve it up hot, with a French Roll in the middle, and garnish with the raspings of Bread sifted, and slices of Lemon.

Ketchup, in Paste. From Bencoulin in the East-Indies.

There is a Kidney-Bean, we have here, which has a fine relish in it, as the Indians say, but in fact there is none but what they give it by Art. This Bean, when it is full ripe, is taken out of the Shells, and boiled to a Pulp, and that Pulp strain'd till it becomes like Butter; then they put some of all the Spices into it, in Powder, as, Nutmeg, Cloves, Mace, and Pepper, Garlick, and Orange-Juice, or some Mango Pickle. This being well mix'd together, makes an agreeable Sauce, when it is put in any warm Liquor.

To dry Plums with Sugar. From Mr. Girarde.

Take large white or red Plums, such as the white Holland's-Plum, the Bonum magnum, the Royal Dolphin or Imperial Plum. Cut these, and take out the Stones, and to every Pound of Plums, put three quarters of a Pound of Sugar: boil your Sugar with a little Water, to a candy height; then put in your Plums, and boil them gently on a slow Fire; then set them by to cool, and then boil them afresh, taking care that they do not break; then let them lie in their Syrup, three or four Days, and then lay them upon Sieves, to dry, in a warm Oven, turning them upon clean Sieves, twice a day, till they are dry. Then wash them off the clamminess of the Sugar with warm Water, and dry them again in the Oven; and when they are cold, put them up in Boxes, with Papers between them, and keep them in a dry Place.

To make small Almond-Cakes. From the same.

Take some Orange-Flower-Water, or Rose-Water, with about two Grains of Amber-Gris, and beat these with a Pound of blanched Almonds, in a Marble Mortar; then take a Pound of fine Sugar powder'd, and finely sifted, and put most of it to the Almonds, when they are well beaten, and mix it well. Then make your Cakes, and lay them on Wafers, and set them in a gentle Oven, on tin Plates; and when they are half baked, boil what Sugar you have left, with some Rose-Water, to a candy height, and, with a Feather, wash the Cakes over with this Liquor, and close your Oven, and let them stand a few Minutes longer.

To preserve Bullace. From the same.

Take your Bullace before the Frost has taken them; let them be fresh gather'd, and clear Fruit, scald them in Water: then take their weight in fine Sugar, with a little Water, and boil it to a Syrup; then put in your Bullace, and boil them till the Syrup is very thick, and your Fruit very clear.

To preserve green Peaches. From the same.

In some Gardens, where the Trees are pruned and ordered, by a skilful hand, it is often that a Tree will be so full of Fruit, that it is necessary to take away some, when they are green, that the others may swell the better. As this sometimes happens with Peaches, so I shall here direct how to preserve them. Scald your green Peaches in Water, then, with a Cloth, rub the Down from them; then put them, in more Water, over a slow Fire, and let them stew till they are green, keeping them cover'd. Then take their weight in fine Sugar, and with some Water, boil it to a Syrup, taking off the Scum as it rises; then put in your Peaches, and boil them till they are clear, and put them up, with the Syrup, in Glasses, or Gally-pots; and when they are cold, cover them with Paper. Note, You must gather your Peaches before the Stone is hard in them, which you may know by putting a Pin through them.

To preserve Goosberries. From the same.

The best Goosberries, for this Work, are the white Dutch Goosberry, and the Walnut-Goosberry. Take these, just when they are beginning to turn ripe, pick off the Flower-tuft at the Ends, and stone them; then take to every Pound of Fruit, one Pound and a quarter of fine Sugar beaten and sifted. Boil the Sugar with a little Water to a Syrup, taking off the Scum as it rises; then put in your Fruit, and boil them quick till they are clear, and put them in Glasses, boiling the Syrup a little more; then pour it upon them, and when it is cold, cover your Glasses close with Paper.

To candy Eringo-Roots. From Mr. Lufkin of Colchester.

Take the fairest Roots of Eringo, fresh taken out of the Ground, wash them clean, and boil them in several Waters till they are very tender: wash them again, and rub them with a Cloth, to dry as much as they will bear, without breaking, or bruising; slit them, and take out the Pith, and twist two together, like a Screw. Then take to every Pound of Root two Pounds of fine Sugar powder'd, of which Sugar take one Pound at first, and boil it with some Rose-Water, to a Syrup; and then put in your Roots, and boil them till they are clear; then wet the rest of your Sugar with Rose-Water, and boil it to a candy Height; then put in the Roots, and let them boil, shaking them often over the Fire, and when you think they are enough, take them from the Fire, and shake them till they are cold, and almost dry; then lay them upon Dishes to dry thoroughly, and when they are done, put them up in Boxes with white Paper, under and over them, then keep them in a dry place.

To preserve Grapes in Syrup. From the same.

The best Grapes for this use, are those of the Fronteniac Kind, of which there are the white and the blue, and the red, which seldom come to ripen in England, with their pure flavour. But as Heat is the occasion of ripening; so, though they want it with us, from the Sun, we may make good that deficiency by Fire, which will answer the end fully, and bring them to the highest perfection of Taste, therefore the Sweet-meat made of these is excellent; besides these Grapes for preserving, the St. Peter and the Warner Grapes are very good, and I may mention the grizled Fronteniac, which is a noble Grape, when it is ripe, as well as the others. And for the other Sorts of Grapes, they are not fit for preserving, unless I take in the Raisin Grapes, red and white, and the Lombardy Grape; all which are full of Pulp, and seldom ripen. These are your sorts, and now to proceed.

Take your Grapes, gather'd in a dry Day, though they are not ripe. You may guess when we come to the end of September, and they are not so, they never will be ripe: pick them then from the Stalks, and stone them carefully, without breaking much of the Skin, save the Juice; then take the weight of them in fine Sugar powder'd, and boil your Sugar with some Water, wherein Pippins have been boiled before, first straining your Water, and boil them to Syrup, taking off the Scum as it rises. And when the Scum rises no more, put in your Grapes, and boil them quick till they are as clear as Crystal, I mean the white Grapes; but the red Sorts, let them boil till they are clear, and that the Syrup will jelly; then put them into Glasses, and when they are cold, cover them close with white Paper; but mark your Papers, which are of the Fronteniac Kinds, for they will have a very different Flavour from the other Sorts, an high richness that is much admired. However, though the other Kinds of Grapes, mention'd in this Receipt, may want a flavour by themselves, you may add some Orange-Flower Water to the Syrup, you make for them, which will give them a fine taste.

N.B. Take care that when you make this Preserve, you use only one sort at one time.

To dress a Calf's-Head in a grand Dish. From Mrs. E. Sympson.

Take a large Calf's-Head, and divide it, cut off the Muzzle, and wash it well; then take the Brains, and wash them, and dry them, and flour them, and put them in a Cloth, and tye them up. Boil these till they are half done; then take them from the Kettle, and cut the Flesh off one side of the Head, in slices, like harsh'd Meat, and the other side of the Head must remain whole, and mark'd only with a sharp Knife, cross-ways. The Brains must lie till the rest are prepared.

Take then the harsh'd part, and with some of the Liquor it was boil'd in, put a Glass of White Wine, a little Mushroom Ketchup, a little Nutmeg grated, and a little Mace beat fine, some Pepper and Salt, some grated Lemon-Peel, and stew them together with a bunch of sweet Herbs, and some Butter. When it is enough, put in a little Juice of Lemon, and thicken it with Cream and Butter, in some of the same Liquor, with the Liquor of Oysters parboil'd, a Pint of Oysters, and as many pickled Mushrooms, which must be toss'd up with your Sauce, when you thicken it, remembring to cut the Eye in pieces, amongst the Harsh.

Then for the other side of the Head, when you have cut the Flesh cross ways, in Diamonds, about an Inch over, beat the Yolks of two or three Eggs, and with a Feather past over it, cover it with the Yolks of Eggs, and then drudge upon it the following Mixture.

Take some Raspings of Bread sifted, put to them some Flour, a little Pepper and Salt, with some Mace and Nutmeg, in powder, and a little sweet Marjoram powder'd, or shred small. Mix these well together; then set it in an Oven, with some bits of Butter upon it, till it is enough, or before a brisk Fire, till the drudging is brown: this must be laid in the middle of the Dish, and the Harsh round it. The Brains must be cut in pieces, and strew'd with a little red Sage cut very small, and a little Spice and Salt; and then every piece, dip'd in a thick Batter, made of Eggs, Flour, and Milk. Fry these well in hot Hog's-Lard, or for want of that, in hot melted Beef-Suet; then take Oysters, a little stew'd in their own Liquor, with Mace, and a little whole Pepper; take off their Fins, and dip them in the same Batter, and fry them as directed above for the Brains. There must be likewise some Pieces of Bread cut the length of one's Finger, and fry'd crisp; all these are by way of Garnish. One may likewise boil some Skirret-Roots, and peel them, and then dip them in the Batter, and fry them crisp. As for the other part of the Garnish, it must be red Beets pickled and sliced, and Lemon sliced.

_Calf's-Head-_Pye. From the same.

Take a large Calf's-Head, divide it, and when it is well cleaned, boil it half enough; then cut it in large slices, and slit the Eyes, season it with Nutmeg, Pepper, Salt, and some powder of dry'd sweet Herbs; then lay it in your Paste, with some Pepper and Salt, at the Bottom, with some bits of Butter; then put in the Yolks of twelve hard Eggs, and a farced Meat made in the following manner. Take some Lean of Veal, shred it very small, then take some Eggs butter'd, and a little Pepper and Salt, with other Spice beaten, and some sweet Herbs in powder. Mix this with the Yolk or two of raw Eggs beaten, and make it into a Paste. Then roll it into Balls, and lay a good number of them into the Pye, amongst the Meat; and, if you will, put in half a Pound of Currans well pick'd, and only rubb'd in a Cloth, without washing. Then close your Pye, and just before it goes to the Oven, pour in a Gill of White Wine, and half a Pint of Water; bake it and serve it hot, and you may add, if you will, the following Liquor, viz.

Take half a Pint of White Wine, and as much Water, with the Juice of a Lemon. Boil these together a Minute or two, then take the Yolks of four Eggs, and beat them well, a quarter of a Pound of Butter, and as much Sugar as you like to make it palatable. Then mix them well together, taking care that it does not curdle, and pour it into your Pye just before you serve it.

Note, One may put into this Pye, Cock's-Combs blanched, and some Citron or Lemon-Peel candy'd, if you design it for a sweet Pye; but it is very good, whether we make it a sweet Pye or not.

To bake a Calf's-Head. From the same.

Take a Calfs-Head, wash it clean, and divide it; then beat the Yolks of four or five Eggs, and beat them well, and with a Feather, trace that Liquor over the out-side of the Head, and strew over it some raspings of Bread sifted, some Flour, some Pepper and Salt, some Mace and Nutmeg powder'd, with some sweet Herbs powder'd, with a little Sage shred small, and the Brains cut in pieces, and dip'd in thick Batter; then cover the Head with some bits of Butter, and pour in the Pan some White-Wine and Water, with as much Gravey, and cover it close. Then bake it in a quick Oven, and when you serve it, pour on some strong Gravey, and garnish with Lemon sliced, red Beet-Root pickled and sliced, and some fry'd Oysters, and fry'd Bread.

To make Spirit of Lilley of the Valley. From Norway. N.B. This serves in the room of Orange-Flower-Water, in 'Puddings, and to perfume Cakes; though it is drank as a Dram in Norway.

Gather your Lilley-of-the-Valley Flowers, when they are dry, and pick them from the Stalks; then put a Quarter of a Pint of them into a Quart of Brandy, and so in proportion, to infuse six or eight Days; then distil it in a cold Still, marking the Bottles, as they are drawn off, which is first, second and third, &c. When you have distill'd them, take the first, and so on to the third or fourth, and mix them together, till you have as strong as you desire; and then bottle them, and cork them well, putting a lump of Loaf-Sugar into each Bottle.

Things to be provided, when any great Family is going into the Country, for a Summer. From Mr. R. S.

Nutmegs.
Mace.
Cinnamon.
Cloves.
Pepper.
Ginger.
Jamaica-Pepper.
Raisins.
Currans.
Sugar Lisbon.
Sugar-Loaf Lump.
Sugar double-refin'd.
Prunes.
Oranges.
Lemons.
Anchovies.
Olives.
Capers.
Oil for Salads.
Vinegar.
Verjuice.
Tea.
Coffee.
Chocolate.
Almonds.
Chesnuts.
French Pears.

Sir, I send you this as a Memorandum, because when some People go into the Country, many of these Things may be forgot, and it is sometimes the Case, that one must send a Mile or two for what is wanted of them.

I am Yours, R. S.

To salt a Ham in imitation of Westphalia, &c.

Take an Ham of young Pork, and sprinkle it with Salt for one Day, that the
Blood may come out; then wipe it dry, and rub it with the following
Mixture.

Take a Pound of brown Sugar, a quarter of a Pound of Salt-Petre, half a Pint of Bay-Salt, and three Pints of common Salt. Mix all these together, and stir them in an Iron Pan, over the Fire, till they are pretty hot, and then rub your Ham with it. Turn your Ham often, and let it lie three Weeks; then dry it in a Chimney with Deal Saw-Dust.

To make artificial Anchovies. From Mr. James Randolph of Richmond.

About February you will find, in the River of Thames, a large quantity of Bleak, or in August a much larger parcel in Shoals. These Fish are soft, tender, and oily, and much better than Sprats to make any imitation of Anchovies from. Take these, and clean them, and cut off their Heads, and lay them in an earthen glazed Pan, with a Layer of Bay-Salt under them, and another over, a single Row of them; then lay a fresh row of Fish, and Bay-Salt over that; and so continue the same Stratum super Stratum, till the Vessel is full, and in a Month you may use them, and afterwards put Vinegar to them. But they will be like Anchovies without Vinegar, only the Vinegar will keep them. Turn them often the first Fortnight.

Apple-Dumplings in an extraordinary way. From Mrs. Johnson.

Take Golden-Rennets ripe, pare them, and take out their Cores; then cut the Apples into small pieces, and with a large Grater, grate in a Quince, when it has been pared and cored: for if you was to slice in a Quince, to your Apples, in large pieces, the Quince would not be boil'd equally with the Apples; for the Quince is of a tough Nature, and will not boil under twice the time that the Apples will: therefore to grate them, will be enough to give their flavour to the Apple, and make all enough at one time. Put what Sugar you think proper into each Dumpling, when you take it up, and the necessary quantity of Butter. It will then cat like a Marmalade of Quince.

Note, The Crust, or Paste, for these Dumplings, must be of a Puff-Paste made with Butter, rubb'd into Flour, and for some other Parts of the Butter, break them into the Paste, and roll them three times, and put in the Apples to the Crust, tying them into a Cloth well flour'd, and boiling them. It may be understood before, that when they are taken up hot, the Ceremony of sugaring and buttering is necessary.

Apple-Dumplings made with Sweet-meats. From the same.

Take fair Apples ripe, pare them, and take out the Cores; then slice them thin, and with a large Grater, grate in some candy'd Orange or Lemon-Peels, and you may put in also some powder'd Clove or Cinnamon, and a little grated Quince, or Quince Marmalade. Put these together, the Apples being first cut in small pieces, into a Puff-Paste, and tye it up in a Cloth. These must be sweeten'd with Lisbon-Sugar, when they are taken up, and melted Butter pour'd in: for if you use Loaf-Sugar, though it is powder'd, some of it will be harsh in the Mouth; and the Lisbon-Sugar, which is the fattest sort of Sugar, will not, but will give a good flavour to your Fruit.

An Hog barbecued, or broil'd whole. From Vaux-Hall, Surrey.

Take an Hog of five or six Months old, kill it, and take out the Inwards, so that the Hog is clear of the Harslet; then turn the Hog upon its Back, and from three Inches below the place where it was stuck, to kill it, cut the Belly in a strait Line down to the Bottom, near the joining of the Gammons; but not so far, but that the whole Body of the Hog may hold any Liquor we would put into it.

Then stretch out the Ribs, and open the Belly, as wide as may be; then strew into it what Pepper and Salt you please.

After this, take a large Grid-Iron, with two or three Ribs in it, and set it upon a stand of Iron, about three Foot and a half high, and upon that, lay your Hog, open'd as above, with the Belly-side downwards, and with a good clear Fire of Charcoal under it. Broil that side till it is enough, flouring the Back at the same time often. Memorandum, This should be done in a Yard, or Garden, with a Covering like a a Tent over it.

When the Belly-part of the Hog is enough, and turn'd upwards, and well fix'd, to be steady upon the Grid-Iron, or Barbacue, pour into the Belly of the Hog, three or four Quarts of Water, and half as much White-Wine, and as much Salt as you will, with some Sage cut small; adding the Peels of six or eight Lemons, and an Ounce of fresh Cloves whole.

Then let it broil till it is enough, which will be, from the beginning to the end, about seven or eight Hours; and when you serve it, pour out the Sauce, and lay it in a Dish, with the Back upwards. Memorandum, The Skin must not be cut before you lay it on the Gridiron, to keep in the Gravey; neither should any of the Skin be cut, when you have any Pork roasted for the same Reason.

Beef, or Pork, to be salted for boiling immediately, from the Shambles. From Mr. J. P. Chymist.

Take any piece of Beef you desire to boil, or Pork for the same, dressing it fresh from the Shambles, or Market, and salt it very well, just before you put it into the Pot; then as soon as your Meat is salted, take a coarse Linnen Cloth, and flour it very well, and then put the Meat into it, and tye it up close. Put this into a Kettle of boiling Water, and boil it as long as you would any salt piece of Beef of the same bigness, and it will come out as salt as a piece of Meat, that had been salted four or five Days: but by this way of salting, one ought not to have pieces of above five or six Pounds weight. N.B. If to half a Pound of common Salt you put an Ounce of Nitre, or Salt-Petre, it will strike a redness into the Beef; but the Salt-Petre must be beat fine, and well mix'd with the common Salt.

_Potatoe-_Puddings, made with Sweet-meats. From Mr. Moring, Temple-Bar.

Take some clean Potatoes, boil them tender, and when they are so, and clean from their Skins, break them in a Marble Mortar, till they become a Pulp; then put to them, or you might beat with them some slices of candy'd Lemons and Oranges, and beat these together with some Spices, and Lemon-Peel candy'd. Put to these some Marrow, and as much Sugar, with Orange-Flower Water, as you think fit. Mix all together, and then take some whole candy'd Orange-Peels, and stuff them full of the Meat, and set them upon a Dish, in a gentle Oven; and when they have stood half an hour, serve them hot, with a Sauce of Sack and Butter, and fine Sugar grated over them.

_Potatoe-_Pudding baked. From Mr. Shepherd of Windmill-Street.

Boil some fair Potatoes till they are tender; then, when they are made clean, bruise them in a Marble Mortar, till they become a Paste, with some Mace powder'd, some Sugar, and the Pulp of Oranges, with a Naples Biscuit or two grated in, and a large Carrot grated. Add to these some Orange-Flower Water; and when all these are well mix'd, put to them some butter'd Eggs, with some slices of Butter laid upon your Pudding, when it is put into the Dish, or Pan. A little baking will serve for it; and when it is enough, serve it hot, with a garnish of sliced Lemon or Orange. Some will put this into a Paste, but not cover it.

To make Whipt Syllabubs. From Mrs. Cater of Salisbury.

To a Pint of Cream put a Gill of Canary-Wine, and two Ounces of Loaf-Sugar finely beat, and a slice or two of Lemon; then with a clean Whisk, whip it together, adding a little Milk, as it grows thick: then have your Glasses clean, and put into each of them three or four spoonfuls of any sorts of Wine, red in some, and white in others, sweeten'd with fine Sugar powder'd; then fill your Glasses with the Froth of your Cream, as it is whipt up.

Of the fashionable Tables, for Persons of Rank, or Figure, where five
Dishes are serv'd at a Course. From S.G. Esq.

The Tables I shall speak of, are so order'd, as to save a great deal of trouble to the Mistress of the Family, as well as to the Guests; for with this Table every one helps himself, by turning any Dish he likes before him, without interrupting any body. You must have first, a large Table with an hole in the Middle, of an Inch Diameter, wherein should be fix'd a Socket of Brass well turn'd, to admit of a Spindle of Brass, that will turn easily in it. The Table I speak of, may be, I suppose, five or six Foot diameter; and then have another Table-board made just so large, that as it is to act on the Centre of the first Table, there may be near a foot vacancy for Plates, &c. on every side. Then fix the Spindle of Brass in the Centre of the smaller Table, which Spindle must be so long, as, that when one puts it in the Socket of the great Table-board, the smaller turning Table may be about four Inches above the lower Board; so, that in its turning about, no Salt, or Bread, or any thing on the Places, may be disturb'd. These Tables have Cloths made to each of them; the upper, or smaller Table, to have an whole Cloth to cover it tight, and fasten'd close, so that none of the Borders hang down; and the Cloth for the under Table, or great Table, must have an hole cut in the middle of it for the Spindle of the upper Table to pass thro' into the Brass Socket: and when this is rightly order'd, and every necessary Furniture of the great, or lower Table, set by every Plate; then the upper Table, which will turn, may be furnish'd with Meats. It remains only then, in some Places, for the Lady of the House, to offer the Soup; but after that, every one is at liberty to help themselves, by turning the upper Table about, to bring what they like, before them.

I am Yours, S. G.

The Manner of killing and salting Oxen, in the hottest Months, for the
Sea, that the Beef may keep good. From a Contractor with the
Commissioners of the Royal-Navy.

Sir,

I have often read your Books, and particularly your Lady's Monthly Director, relating to the Management of the several Products of a Farm, but you have not taken notice of the Preservation of Flesh, as I expected.

I send this therefore, to inform you, that upon the setting out of a Fleet in June, it was thought difficult to salt the Beef; but it was done, to full Satisfaction, by the following Method.

We killed an hundred Oxen, in June, towards the Close of the Evening, and let them hang up whole, till the next Evening: then, when the Cool comes on, cut out the Messes, and by every Stand have a Punchin of Brine, and throw them into it as soon as they are cut, and in about three Minutes after that, take them out, and salt them well. Note, These Pieces will by these means lose their bloody Parts, in great measure, and be capacitated to receive the Salt much better than otherways, and then put them up. Memorandum, We had not, out of all this quantity, above three Pieces fail'd, though the Weather was extreme hot.

_Cheshire-_Pye with Pork. From Mr. R. J.

Take some salt Loin of Pork, or Leg of Pork, and cut it into Pieces, like Dice, or as you would do for an Harsh. If it be boiled or roasted, it is no matter; then take an equal quantity of Potatoes, and pare them, and cut them into dice, or in slices. Make your Pye-Crust, and lay some Butter, in pieces, at the bottom, with some Pepper and Salt; then put in your Meat and Potatoes, with such seasoning as you like, but Pepper and Salt commonly, and on the Top some pieces of Butter. Then close your Pye, and bake it in a gentle Oven, putting in about a Pint of Water, just before it is going into the Oven; for if you put in your Water over Night, it will spoil your Pye.

To bake Herrings in an extraordinary manner. From Mrs. M. N. of Shrewsbury.

Take fresh Herrings, and when they are scaled and cleaned, put them in a glazed earthen Vessel, where they can lie straight; then put in as much of the following Liquor as will cover them, viz. an equal quantity of fine pale and old strong Beer, with Vinegar, which is the best, or else all Vinegar, or as some do, put two parts of Vinegar and one of Water; any of these will do well. Then put in some Bay-Salt, such a quantity as you think will season it to your mind, and to that a tenth part of Salt-Petre, which will not make it salt, but give it a fine relish: to these put two or three Bay-Leaves, a bunch of sweet Herbs, some Cloves, or Jamaica Pepper, and some whole Pepper; then cover your Pan, and bake it in a quick Oven, with Bread. These must be eaten cold; they are excellent for a Country Breakfast, especially, if they are warm of the Spice, and if they are well done, the very Bones will dissolve.

To draw Gravey for a private Family. From the same.

Take some fleshy part of Beef, without Fat, and cut it in pieces about the bigness of Pidgeons Eggs; then flour it well, and put it in a Sauce-Pan, with a little fresh Lard, or a little Butter, a little Onion sliced, some Powder of sweet Marjoram, and a little Pepper. Cover all close, and stir it now and then till the Gravey is come out enough, and then pour on it some Water, when the Gravey is brown, and stir all together, and let them boil some time; then strain it off, adding a little Lemon-Juice.

Another Gravey, for a private Family, where there is not an opportunity of getting Beef to make it of.

Take some Butter, and some Onion, cut small, put it in a Sauce-Pan, and set it over the Fire till the Butter melts; then drudge in some Flour, and stir it well, till the Froth sinks down, and then it will be brown; you must then have ready prepared the following Mixture to throw in, viz. some good old Beer, and as much Water, an Onion cut small, some Pepper and Salt, a small Anchovy shred, a little Lemon-Peel grated, a Clove or two, and, if you have it, a little Mushroom Liquor, or Liquor of pickled Walnuts; then let them all simmer together a little while, and it will produce a thick good Gravey.

The Manner of Trussing a Rabbit for Boiling.

[Illustration: Fig. 1]

Cut the two Haunches of the Rabbit close by the Back-Bone, two Inches, and turn up the Haunches, by the Sides of the Rabbit; skewer the Haunches through the lower Part of the Back, as at A; then put a Skewer through the utmost Joint of the Leg at B, and so through the Body, and through the other Leg, so that the end of the Leg reaches the Shoulder-Blade. Then truss up the Shoulders high, and let the Pinnions be carried back, to take the Legs at B, and lie between them and the Body; and under the height of the Pinnions, put a Skewer, and bend the Neck backwards, and pass the Skewer through all, at C, so that it supports the Blade-Bone, and holds the Head up.

The Manner of Trussing a Single Rabbit for Roasting. From Mr. W. N.
Poulterer.

[Illustration: Fig, 2 ]

You case the Rabbit all, excepting the lower Joints of the four Legs, and those you chop off: then pass a Skewer through the middle of the Haunches, after you have laid them flat, as at A; and the Fore-Legs, which are called the Wings, must be turn'd, as at B; so that the smaller Joint may be push'd into the Body, through the Ribs. This, as a single Rabbit, has the Spit pass'd through the Body and Head, but the Skewer takes hold of the Spit to preserve the Haunches. But to truss a couple of Rabbits, there are seven Skewers, and then the Spit passes only between the Skewers, without touching the Rabbits.

To make a Pheasant of a Rabbit, truss'd in such a manner, that it will appear like a Pheasant, and eat like one, with its Sauce. This is called, by the topping Poulterers, a Poland-Chicken, or a Portugal-Chicken. But it is most like a Pheasant, if it is larded. From Mrs. Johnson, at the famous Eating-House in Devereux-Court near the Temple.

[Illustration: Fig. 3]

Take a young Rabbit full grown; case it all, excepting the Fore-Feet, chop off them, and the Head, as close as may be, but strip the Skin from the hind Legs, even to leave the Claws on them. These Claws are not unlike the Claws of a Pheasant, and some good Judges may be deceiv'd by their first Look, for they are little different from the Legs of the Fowls we design to imitate. Then turn the Neck-part of the Rabbit, the Breast inwards, to the Scut or the Rump, leaving the Rump somewhat short, but to appear; then will the Rabbit appear in the Shape above, viz. B is the Scut, or Rump, of the Rabbit, and C is where the Neck comes; then will the Part mark'd F, appear like the Breast of a Fowl: but you must put up the stript Legs of the Rabbit, over each side of the Neck of it, and tie all together, with a String, as mark'd H H. So will the Hind-Legs of the Rabbit appear like the Legs of a Fowl, and where you see the Letter G mark'd, the Back of the Rabbit is broken. D, is what represents the Back-Side of the Fowl, and E is the Appearance of the Wings, which are supposed to be stuck into the Back, where two large Orifices are made, but the Bones of the Wings, of the Rabbit, must be taken out. A, shews the Legs as they ought to be tied, and O O Directs to the Points of the Skewers which are to run through it.

[Illustration: Fig. 4]

Fig. 4. will shew you the Back of the same, when it is truss'd, with the Appearance of the Skewers, o, o, o, o, with the Orifices, wherein are the supposed Bones of the Wings. If this is larded on the Breast, I think it best, and it should be served with the following Sauce, if it is roasted.

When this is thus prepared, you may stick a Pheasant's Tail-Feather at the Scut, and roast it as you would do a Pheasant, basting it well with Butter, after it is drudg'd well with Flour; then make the following Sauce for it. Take some strong Gravey, and put a little Lemon-Peel into it, with some Spice, and a little Wine; then take a few Buttons of Mushrooms pickled, and thicken it with burnt Butter, so that the Sauce becomes like one fit for a Ragout, or Ragoo, as the English pronounce it. Pour this over the Fowl or Rabbit, which you please to call it, and serve it hot, with a Garnish of Lemon sliced, and pickled Red Beet-Roots sliced.

Of Trussing a Pidgeon. From the same.

[Illustration: Fig. 5]

Draw it, but leave in the Liver, for that has no Gall; then push up the Breast from the Vent, and holding up the Legs, put a Skewer just between the bent of the Thigh and the brown of the Leg, first having turn'd the Pinnions under the Back: and see the lower Joint of the biggest Pinnions, are so pass'd with the Skewer, that the Legs are between them and the Body, as at A.

A Goose to Truss. From the same.

[Illustration: Fig. 6]

A Goose has no more than the thick Joints of the Legs and Wings left to the Body; the Feet, and the Pinnions being cut off, to accompany the other Giblets, which consist of the Head and Neck, with the Liver and Gizzard. Then at the bottom of the Apron of the Goose A, cut an hole, and draw the Rump through it; then pass a Skewer through the small part of the Leg, through the Body, near the Back, as at B; and another Skewer through the thinnest part of the Wings, and through the Body, near the Back, as at C, and it will be right.

The Trussing of an Easterling. From Mr. W. N. Poulterer of St. _James's-Market, London._

[Illustration: Fig.7]

A Duck, an Easterling, a Teal, and a Widgeon, are all trussed in the same manner. Draw it, and lay aside the Liver and Gizzard, and take out the Neck, leaving the Skin of the Neck full enough to spread over the Place where the Neck was cut off. Then cut off the Pinnions at A, and raise up the whole Legs, till they are upright in the middle of the Fowl B, and press them between the stump of the Wings, and the Body of the Fowl: then twist the Feet towards the Body, and bring them forwards, with the bottom of the Feet towards the Body of the Fowl, as at C. Then take a Skewer, and pass it through the Fowl, between the lower Joint, next the Foot, and the Thigh, taking hold, at the same time, of the ends of the stumps of the Wings A. Then will the Legs, as we have placed them, stand upright. D is the point of the Skewer.

The Manner of Trussing a Chicken like a Turkey-Poult, or of Trussing a Turkey-Poult. From. Mr. W. N. Poulterer of St. _James's-_Market.

[Illustration: Fig. 8]

Take a Chicken and cut a long slit down the Neck, on the Fore-part; then take out the Crop and the Merry-Thought, as it is call'd; then twist the Neck, and bring it down under the Back, till the Head is placed on the side of the Left-Leg; bind the Legs in, with their Claws on, and turn them upon the Back. Then between the bending of the Leg and the Thigh, on the Right side pass a Skewer through the Body of the Fowl; and when it is through, run the Point through the Head, by the same Place of the Leg, as you did before, as at A: you must likewise pull the Rump B through the Apron of the Fowl. Note, The Neck is twisted like a Cord, and the boney part of it must be quite taken out, and the Under-Jaw of the Fowl taken away; neither should the Liver and Gizzard be served with it, though, the Pinnions are left on. Then turn the Pinnions behind the Back, and pass a Skewer through the extreme Joint, between the Pinnion and the lower Joint of the Wing, through the Body, near the Back, as at C, and it will be fit to roast in the fashionable manner. N.B. Always mind to beat down the Breast-Bone, and pick the Head and Neck clean from the Feathers before you begin to truss your Fowl.

A Turkey-Poult has no Merry-Thought, as it is called; and therefore, to imitate a Turkey the better, we take it out of a Chicken through the Neck.

[Illustration: Fig 9]

Fig. 9. Shews the Manner how the Legs and Pinnions will appear when they are turn'd to the Back; as also, the Position of the Head and Neck of the Chicken, or Turkey-Poult.

The manner of Trussing an Hare in the most fashionable Way. From Mr. W.
N.

[Illustration: Fig. 10]

Case an Hare, and in casing it, just when you come to the Ears, pass a Skewer just between the Skin and the Head, and by degrees raise it up till the Skin leaves both the Ears stript, and then take take off the rest as usual. Then give the Head a Twist over the Back, that it may stand, as at A, putting two Skewers in the Ears, partly to make them stand upright, and to secure the Head in a right Disposition; then push the Joint of the Shoulder-Blade, up as high as may be, towards the Back, and pass a Skewer between the Joints, as at B, through the bottom Jaw of the Hare, which will keep it steady; then pass another Skewer through the lower Branch of the Leg at C, through the Ribs, passing close by the Blade-Bone, to keep that up tight, and another through the Point of the same Branch, as at D, which finishes the Upper-Part. Then bend in both Legs between the Haunches, so that their Points meet under the Scut, and skewer them fast, with two Skewers, as at O O.

A Fowl trussed for Boiling. From Mr. W. N. Poulterer, &c.

[Illustration: Fig. 11]

When it is drawn, twist the Wings till you bring the Pinnion under the Back; and you may, if you will, enclose the Liver and Gizzard, one in each Wing, as at A, but they are commonly left out. Then beat down the Breast Bone, that it does not rise above the fleshy Part; then cut off the Claws of the Feet, and twist the Legs, and bring them on the out-side of the Thigh, towards the Wing, as at B, and cut an Hole on each side the Apron, just above the Sides-man, and put the Joints of the Legs into the Body of the Fowl, as at C: so this is trussed without a Skewer.

To Truss a Pheasant or Partridge. From the same.

[Illustration: Fig. 12]

Both the Pheasant and Partridge are trussed the same way, only the Neck of the Partridge is cut off, and the Neck and Head of the Pheasant is left on: the Plate above shews the Pheasant trussed. When it is drawn, cut off the Pinnions, leaving only the stump-bone next the Breast, and pass a Skewer through its Point, and through the Body near the Back, and then give the Neck a turn; and passing it by the Back, bring the Head on the outside of the other Wing-Bone, as at A, and run the Skewer through both, with the Head landing towards the Neck, or the Rump, which you please: B is where the Neck runs. Then take the Legs, with their Claws on, and press them by the Joints together, so as to press the lower Part of the Breast, then press them down between the Sides-men, and pass a Skewer through all, as at C. Remember a Partridge must have its Neck cut off, or else in every thing is trussed like a Pheasant.

To boil an artificial Pheasant, with Sellary. From Mrs. Johnson,
Devereux-Court near Temple-Bar.

Prepare a Rabbit in the same manner as above directed, only it must not be larded; then boil it, and give it the following Sauce. Take six or seven Roots of Sellary, and boil them, when they are well clean'd from Dirt, till they are tender, then cut them into pieces of about two Inches long, and toss them up with strong Gravey thicken'd with burnt Butter. Pour this over the artificial Pheasant, and serve it hot, well impregnated with Spice. Then garnish it with Lemon sliced, or sliced Orange, and some fry'd Bread, and some Slices of pickled red Beet-Roots; or round the Edges of the Dish, strew some sifted raspings of Bread.

THE END.

* * * * *

INDEX TO PART II.