GATHERINGS FROM SPAIN.
BY THE
AUTHOR OF THE HANDBOOK OF SPAIN;
CHIEFLY SELECTED FROM THAT WORK, WITH
MUCH NEW MATTER.
NEW EDITION.
LONDON:
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.
——
1851.
TO THE
HONOURABLE MRS. FORD,
THESE pages, which she has been so good as to peruse and approve of, are dedicated, in the hopes that other fair readers may follow her example,
By her very affectionate
Husband and Servant,
RICHARD FORD.
PREFACE.
MANY ladies, some of whom even contemplate a visit to Spain, having condescended to signify to the publisher their regrets, that the Handbook was printed in a form, which rendered its perusal irksome, and also to express a wish that the type had been larger, the Author, to whom this distinguished compliment was communicated, has hastened to submit to their indulgence a few extracts and selections, which may throw some light on the character of a country and people, always of the highest interest, and particularly so at this moment, when their independence is once more threatened by a crafty and aggressive neighbour.
In preparing these compilations for the press much new matter has been added, to supply the place of portions omitted; for, in order to lighten the narrative, the Author has removed much lumber of learning, and has not scrupled occasionally to throw Strabo, and even Saint Isidore himself, overboard. Progress is the order of the day in Spain, and its advance is the more rapid, as she was so much in arrear of other nations. Transition is the present condition of the country, where yesterday is effaced by to-morrow. There the relentless march of European intellect is crushing many a native wild flower, which, having no value save colour and sweetness, must be rooted up before cotton-mills are constructed and bread stuffs substituted; many a trait of nationality in manners and costume is already effaced; monks are gone, and mantillas are going, alas! going.
In the changes that have recently taken place, many descriptions of ways and things now presented to the public will soon become almost matters of history and antiquarian interest. The passages here reprinted will be omitted in the forthcoming new edition of the Handbook, to which these pages may form a companion; but their chief object has been to offer a few hours’ amusement, and may be of instruction, to those who remain at home; and should the humble attempt meet with the approbation of fair readers, the author will bear, with more than Spanish resignation, whatever animadversions bearded critics may be pleased to inflict on this or on the other side of the water.
CONTENTS.
| [CHAPTER I.] | |
| PAGE | |
A General View of Spain—Isolation—King of the Spains—CastilianPrecedence—Localism—Want of Union—Admiration of Spain—M.Thiers in Spain | [1] |
| [CHAPTER II.] | |
The Geography of Spain—Zones—Mountains—The Pyrenees—TheGabacho, and French Politics | [7] |
| [CHAPTER III.] | |
The Rivers of Spain—Bridges—Navigation—The Ebro and Tagus | [23] |
| [CHAPTER IV.] | |
Divisions into Provinces—Ancient Demarcations—Modern Departments—Population—Revenue—SpanishStocks | [30] |
| [CHAPTER V.] | |
Travelling in Spain—Steamers—Roads, Roman, Monastic, and Royal—ModernRailways—English Speculations | [40] |
| [CHAPTER VI.] | |
Post Office in Spain—Travelling with Post Horses—Riding post—Mailsand Diligences, Galeras, Coches de Colleras, Drivers and Manner ofDriving, and Oaths | [53] |
| [CHAPTER VII.] | |
Spanish Horses—Mules—Asses—Muleteers—Maragatos | [65] |
| [CHAPTER VIII.] | |
Riding Tour in Spain—Pleasures of it—Pedestrian Tour—Choice ofCompanions—Rules for a Riding Tour—Season of Year—Day’sJourney—Management of Horse; his Feet; Shoes; General Hints | [80] |
| [CHAPTER IX.] | |
The Rider’s Costume—Alforjas: Their contents—The Bota, and Howto use it—Pig Skins and Borracha—Spanish Money—Onzas andsmaller Coins | [94] |
| [CHAPTER X.] | |
Spanish Servants: their Character—Travelling Groom, Cook, andValet | [105] |
| [CHAPTER XI.] | |
A Spanish Cook—Philosophy of Spanish Cuisine—Sauce—Difficulty ofCommissariat—The Provend—Spanish Hares and Rabbits—The Olla—Garbanzos—SpanishPigs—Bacon and Hams—Omelette—Salad andGazpacho | [119] |
| [CHAPTER XII.] | |
Drinks of Spain—Water—Irrigation—Fountains—Spanish Thirstiness—TheAlcarraza—Water Carriers—Ablutions—Spanish Chocolate—Agraz—BeerLemonade | [136] |
| [CHAPTER XIII.] | |
Spanish Wines—Spanish Indifference—Wine-making—Vins du Pays—LocalWines—Benicarló—Valdepeñas | [145] |
| [CHAPTER XIV.] | |
Sherry Wines—The Sherry District—Origin of the Name—Varietiesof Soil—Of Grapes—Pajarete—Rojas Clemente—Cultivation ofVines—Best Vineyards—The Vintage—Amontillado—The Capataz—TheBodega—Sherry Wine—Arrope and Madre Vino—A Lectureon Sherry in the Cellar—at the Table—Price of Fine Sherry—Falsificationof Sherry—Manzanilla—The Alpistera | [150] |
| [CHAPTER XV.] | |
Spanish Inns: Why so Indifferent—The Fonda—Modern Improvements—ThePosada—Spanish Innkeepers—The Venta: Arrival in it—Arrangement—Garlic—Dinner—Evening—Night—Bill—Identitywith the Inns of the Ancients | [165] |
| [CHAPTER XVI.] | |
Spanish Robbers—A Robber Adventure—Guardias Civiles—ExaggeratedAccounts—Cross of the Murdered—Idle Robber Tales—FrenchBandittiphobia—Robber History—Guerrilleros—Smugglers—JoseMaria—Robbers of the First Class—The Ratero—Miguelites—Escortsand Escopeteros—Passes, Protections, and Talismans—Executionof a Robber | [186] |
| [CHAPTER XVII.] | |
The Spanish Doctor: His Social Position—Medical Abuses—Hospitals—MedicalEducation—Lunatic Asylums—Foundling Hospital ofSeville—Medical Pretensions—Dissection—Family Physician—Consultations—MedicalCostume—Prescriptions—Druggists—SnakeBroth—Salve for Knife-cuts | [213] |
| [CHAPTER XVIII.] | |
Spanish Spiritual Remedies for the Body—Miraculous Relics—SanativeOils—Philosophy of Relic Remedies—Midwifery and the Cinta ofTortosa—Bull of Crusade | [236] |
| [CHAPTER XIX.] | |
The Spanish Figaro—Mustachios—Whiskers—Beards—Bleeding—HeraldicBlood—Blue, Red, and Black Blood—Figaro’s Shop—TheBaratero—Shaving and Toothdrawing | [255] |
| [CHAPTER XX.] | |
What to observe in Spain—How to observe—Spanish Incuriousness andSuspicions—French Spies and Plunderers—Sketching in Spain—Difficulties;How Surmounted—Efficacy of Passports and Bribes—Uncertaintyand Want of Information in the Natives | [265] |
| [CHAPTER XXI.] | |
Origin of Bull-fight or Festival, and its Religious Character—FiestasReales—Royal Feasts—Charles I. at one—Discontinuance ofthe Old System—Sham Bull-fights—Plaza de Toros—Slang Language—SpanishBulls—Breeds—The Going to a Bull-fight | [286] |
| [CHAPTER XXII.] | |
The Bull-fight—Opening of Spectacle—First Act, and Appearanceof the Bull—The Picador—Bull Bastinado—The Horses, and theirCruel Treatment—Fire and Dogs—The Second Act—The Chulosand their Darts—The Third Act—The Matador—Death of the Bull—TheConclusion, and Philosophy of the Amusement—Its Effect onLadies | [300] |
| [CHAPTER XXIII.] | |
Spanish Theatre; Old and Modern Drama; Arrangement of Play-houses—TheHenroost—The Fandango; National Dances—A GipsyBall—Italian Opera—National Songs and Guitars | [318] |
| [CHAPTER XXIV.] | |
Manufacture of Cigars—Tobacco—Smuggling viâ Gibraltar—Cigars ofFerdinand VII.—Making a Cigarrito—Zumalacarreguy and theSchoolmaster—Time and Money wasted in Smoking—Postscript onSpanish Stock | [335] |