Transcriber's Note: The original publication has been replicated faithfully except as listed [here].

NARRATIVE
OF THE
Circumnavigation of the Globe
BY THE AUSTRIAN FRIGATE
NOVARA,

(COMMODORE B. VON WULLERSTORF-URBAIR,)
Undertaken by Order of the Imperial Government,

IN THE YEARS 1857, 1858, & 1859,

UNDER THE IMMEDIATE AUSPICES OF HIS I. AND R. HIGHNESS THE ARCHDUKE FERDINAND MAXIMILIAN, COMMANDER-IN-CHIEF OF THE AUSTRIAN NAVY.

BY

DR. KARL SCHERZER,

MEMBER OF THE EXPEDITION, AUTHOR OF "TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA," ETC.

VOL. II.

LONDON:
SAUNDERS, OTLEY, AND CO.,
66, BROOK STREET, HANOVER SQUARE.
1862.

[THE RIGHT OF TRANSLATION IS RESERVED.]

JOHN CHILDS AND SON, PRINTERS.


CONTENTS.

PAGE
CHAPTER X.
THE NICOBAR ISLANDS.
Historical details respecting this Archipelago.—Arrival atKar-Nicobar.—Communication with the Aborigines.—Village ofSáoui and "Captain John."—Meet with two white men.—Journey tothe south side of the Island.—Village of Komios.—ForestScenery.—Batte-Malve.—Tillangschong.—Arrival and stay atNangkauri Harbour.—Village of Itoe.—Peak Mongkata onKamorta.—Villages of Enuang and Malacca.—Tripjet, the firstsettlement of the Moravian Brothers.—Ulàla Cove.—Voyagethrough the Archipelago.—The Island of Treis.—PuloMiù.—Pandanus Forest.—St. George's Channel.—Island ofKondul.—Departure for the northern coast of GreatNicobar.—Mangrove Swamp.—Malay traders.—Remarks upon thenatives of Great Nicobar.—Disaster to a boat dispatched to makeGeodetical observations.—Visit to the Southern Bay of GreatNicobar.—General results obtained during the stay of theExpedition in this Archipelago.—Nautical, Climatic, andGeognostic observations.—Vegetation.—AnimalLife.—Ethnography.—Prospects of this group of Islands in theway of settlement and cultivation.—Voyage to the Straits ofMalacca.—Arrival at Singapore.[1]
CHAPTER XI.
SINGAPORE.
Position of the Island.—Its previous history.—Sir StamfordRaffles' propositions to make it a port of the BritishGovernment free to all sea-faring nations.—The Island becomespart of the Crown property of England.—Extraordinarydevelopment under the auspices of a Free Trade policy.—Our stayshortened in consequence of the severity of thecholera.—Description of the city.—Tigers.—Gambir.—The Betelplantations.—Inhabitants.—Chinese and Europeanlabour.—Climate.—Diamond merchants.—Preparation of PearlSago.—Opium farms.—Opiummanufacture.—Opium-smokers.—Intellectualactivity.—Journalism.—Logan's "Journal of the IndianArchipelago."—Schoolfor Malay children.—Judicialprocedure.—Visit to the penal settlement for colouredcriminals.—A Chinese provision-merchant at business and athome.—Fatal accident on board.—Departure fromSingapore.—Difficulty in passing through GasparStraits.—Sporadic outbreak of cholera on board.—Death of oneof the ship's boys.—First burial at sea.—Sea-snakes.—Arrivalin the Roads of Batavia.[137]
CHAPTER XII.
JAVA.
Old and New Batavia.—Splendid reception.—Scientificsocieties.—Public institutions.—Natives.—A Malayembassy.—Excursion into the interior.—Buitenzorg.—The BotanicGarden.—The Negro.—Prince Aquasie Boachi.—Pondok-Gedeh.—Theinfirmary at Gadok, and Dr. Bernstein.—Megamendoeng.—Javanesevillages.—Tjipannas.—Ascent of Pangerango.—Forestscenery.—Javanese resting-houses or Pasanggrahans.—Night andmorning on the summit of the volcano.—Visit to GunungGedeh.—The plantations of Peruvian bark-trees inTjipodas.—Their actual condition.—Conjectures as to thefuture.—Voyage to Bandong.—Spots where edible swallows' nestsare found.—Hospitable reception by a Javanese prince.—Visit toDr. Junghuhn in Lembang.—Coffee cultivation.—Decay in value ofthe coffee bean of Java.—Professor Vriese and the coffeeplanters of Java.—Free trade and monopoly.—Compulsory and freelabour.—Ascent of the volcano of Tangkuban Prahu.—PoisonCrater and King's Crater.—A geological excursion to a portionof the Preanger Regency.—Native fête given by the JavaneseRegent of Tjiangoer.—A day at the Governor-general'scountry-seat at Buitenzorg.—Return to Batavia.—Ball given bythe military club in honour of the Novara.—Raden Saleh, aJavanese artist.—Barracks and prisons.—MeesterCornelis.—French opera.—Constant changes among the Europeansociety.—Aims of the colonial government.—Departure fromBatavia.—Pleasant voyage.—An English ship with ChineseCoolies.—Bay of Manila.—Arrival in Cavite harbour.[180]
CHAPTER XIII.
MANILA.
Historical notes relating to the Philippines.—From Cavite toManila.—The river Pasig.—First impressions of the city.—Itsinhabitants.—Tagales and Negritoes.—Preponderating influenceof monks.—Visit to the four chief monasteries.—Conversationwith an Augustine Monk.—Grammars and Dictionaries of the idiomschiefly in use in Manila.—Reception by the Governor-general ofthe Philippines.—Monument in honour of Magelhaens.—The"Calzada."—Cock-fighting.—"Fiestas Reales."—Causes of thelanguid trade with Europe hitherto.—Visit to theCigar-manufactories.—Tobacco cultivation in Luzon and at theHavanna.—Abáca, or Manila hemp.—Excursion to the "Laguna deBay."—A row on the river Pasig.—The village ofPatero.—Wild-duck breeding.—Sail on the Lagoon.—Plans forcanalization.—Arrival at Los Baños.—Canoe-trip on the"enchanted sea."—Alligators.—Kalong Bats.—Gobernador andGobernadorcillo.—The Poll-tax.—A hunt in the swamps ofCalamba.—Padre Lorenzo.—Return to Manila.—The "Pebete."—Themilitary Library.—The civil and militaryHospital.—Ecclesiastical processions.—Ave Maria.—Tagalianmerriness.—Condiman.—Lunatic Asylum.—Gigantic serpentthirty-two years old.—Departure.—Chinese pilots.—Firstglimpse of the coasts of the Celestial Empire.—The LemmasChannel.—Arrival in Hong-kong Harbour.[281]
CHAPTER XIV.
HONG-KONG.
Rapid increase of the colony of Victoria orHong-kong.—Disagreeables.—Public character.—The Comprador, or"factotum."—A Chinese fortune-teller.—Curiosity-stalls.—TheTo-stone.—Pictures on so-called "rice-paper."—CantonEnglish.—Notices on the Chinese language and mode ofwriting.—Manufacture of ink.—Hospitality of Germanmissionaries.—The custom of exposing and murdering femalechildren.—Method of dwarfing the female foot.—Sir JohnBowring.—Branch Institute of the Royal Asiatic Society.—Anecclesiastical dignitary on the study of natural sciences.—TheChinese in the East Indies.—Green indigo or Lu-Kao.—Kindreception by German countrymen.—Anthropometricalmeasurements.—Ramble to Little Hong-kong.—Excursion to Cantonon board H.M. gun-boat Algerine.—A day at the Englishhead-quarters.—The Treaty of Tien-Tsin.—Visit to thePortuguese settlement of Macao.—Herr von Carlowitz.—Camoens'Grotto.—Church for Protestants.—Pagoda Makok.—Dr.Kane.—Present position of the colony.—Slave-trade revivedunder the name of Chinese emigration.—Excursions roundMacao.—The Isthmus.—Chinese graves.—Praya Granite.—A Chinesephysician.—Singing stones.—Departure.—Gutzlaff'sIsland.—Voyage up the Yang-tse-Kiang.—Wusung.—Arrival atShanghai.[355]
CHAPTER XV.
SHANGHAI.
A stroll through the old Chinese quarter.—Book-stalls.—PublicBaths.—Chinese Pawnbrokers.—Foundling hospital.—The Hall ofUniversal Benevolence.—Sacrificial Hall of MedicalFaculty.—City prison.—Temple of the Goddess of theSea.—Chinese taverns.—Tea-garden.—Temple of Buddha.—Templeof Confucius.—Taouist convent.—Chinese nuns.—An apothecary'sstore, and what is sold therein.—Public schools.—Christianplaces of worship.—Native industry.—Cenotaphs to the memory ofbeneficent females.—A Chinese patrician family.—The villas ofthe foreign merchants.—Activity of the London MissionarySociety.—Dr. Hobson.—Chinese medical works.—Leprosy.—TheAmerican Missionary Society.—Dr. Bridgman.—Main-tzetribe.—Mission schools for Chinese boys and girls.—The NorthChina branch of the Royal Asiatic Society.—Meeting in honour ofthe Members of the Novara Expedition.—Mons. deMontigny.—Baron Gros.—Interview with the Táu-Tái, or chiefChinese official of the city.—The Jesuit mission atSikkawéi.—The Pagoda of Long-Sáh.—A Chinese dinner.—Serenadeby the German singing-club.—The Germans in China.—Influence ofthe Treaties of Tien-Tsin and Pekin uponcommerce.—Silk.—Tea.—The Chinese sugar-cane.—Various speciesof Bamboos employed in the manufacture of paper.—The varnishtree.—The tallow tree.—The wax-tree.—Mosquitotobacco.—Articles of import.—Opium.—The Tai-pingrebels.—Departure from Shanghai.—A typhoon in the Chinasea.—Sight the island of Puynipet in the Caroline Archipelago.[416]
CHAPTER XVI.
THE ISLAND OF PUYNIPET.
Native boats in sight.—A pilot comes on board—Communicationsof a white settler.—Another pilot.—Fruitless attempts to tackfor the island.—Roankiddi Harbour.—Extreme difficulty ineffecting a landing with the boats.—Settlement of Réi.—Dr.Cook.—Stroll through the forest.—Excursions up the RoankiddiRiver.—American missionaries.—Visit from the king of theRoankiddi tribe.—Kawa as a beverage.—Interior of the royalabode.—The Queen.—Mode of living, habits and customs of thenatives.—Their religion and mode of worship.—Their festivalsand dances.—Ancient monumental records and their probableorigin.—Importance of these in both a historical and geologicalpoint of view.—Return on board.—Suspicious conduct of thewhite settler.—An asylum for contented delinquents.—Underweigh for Australia.—Belt of calms.—Simpson Island.—"It mustbe a ghost!"—Bradley Reef.—A Comet.—The SolomonIslands.—Rencontre with the natives of Malaýta.—In sight ofSikayana.[551]
CHAPTER XVII.
THE CORAL ISLAND OF SIKAYANA.
Natives on board.—Good prospects of fresh provisions.—Aninterment on board.—A night scene.—Visit to the IslandGroup.—Fáole.—Trip ashore to Sikayana.—Narrative of anEnglish sailor.—Cruelty of merchantmen in the South SeaIslands.—Tradition as to the origin of the inhabitants ofSikayana.—A king.—Barter.—Religion of thenatives.—Trepang.—Method of preparing this sea-slug for theChinese market.—Dictionary of the native language.—Undersail.—Ile de Contrariété.—Stormy weather.—Spring aleak.—Bampton Reef.—Smoky Cape.—Arrival in Port Jackson, theharbour of Sydney.[601]

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

VOL. II.

PAGE
1.A Landscape in the Nicobar Islands[1]
2.A Forest Scene in Singapore[137]
3.A Chinese Counting Board[170]
4.Javanese Weapons[180]
5.The Seal of Union of the Brotherhood of the Heavens and the Earth[197]
6.Javanese Bee-hive[213]
7.View from the Battlements at Manila[281]
8.Life in Hong-kong[355]
9.Flower Boat on the Wusung at Shanghai[416]
10.Distant View of the Island of Puynipet[551]
11.Barrier Reef and Atoll of Sikayana[601]

A Landscape in the Nicobar Islands.