Ecclesiastical Vestments: Their development and history

by Robert Alexander Stewart Macalister

INDEX.

• Absolution, vestments worn at, [223]
• Acolytes, cassock of, [139]
  • insignia of, [213], [214]
• Aethelwold, benedictional of, [115]
• Aix-la-Chapelle, chasuble at, [86]
• Alb. See also Alba, [64]
  • material and colour of, [65]
  • ornamentation of, [66], [151]
  • plain, when worn, [67]
  • symbolism of, [68], [69]
  • dimensions of, [69]
  • modifications of, [140], [141]
  • contrary to English Church law, [201]
  • by whom worn, [214]
• Alba. See also Alb, Dalmatica, Roba Talaris
  • by whom and when worn, [28], [30]
  • origin of, [29], [31]
  • description of, [30]
  • canons respecting, [30]
  • ornamentation of, [32], [59]
  • baptismal, [36], [37]
  • of newly baptized, [171]
  • sigillata, bullata, [66]
  • in Gallican church, [135]
  • Eastern equivalent of, [178]
• Alcuin (pseudo-) quoted, [34], [64], [69], [77], [89], [96], [103], [111], [149]
• Almuce, description of, [142]
  • distinctions of ecclesiastical rank in, [142]
  • derivation of name, [142]
  • evolution of, [143]-146
  • worn under Eucharistic vestments, [219]
  • in the universities, [256]
• Amalarius of Metz quoted, [52], [68], [77], [89], [92]-95, [103], [122]
• Ambrose cited, [38]
• Amess. See Almuce
• Amice, [64]
  • origin of, [71]
  • how, by whom, and when worn, [71], [214]
  • description of, [71]
  • symbolism of, [72]
  • ornamentation of, [151]
  • vakass borrowed from, [188]
• Amys. See Almuce
• Anastasius Bibliothecarius quoted, [34]
• Anglican church, vestments in, [194] et seqq.
• Apparels, [153]
• Aquinas, St Thomas, cited, [132]
• Archdeacons, supposed, in St David's Cathedral, [80]
• Aregius, Bishop, receives dalmatica, [54]
• Armenian church, baptismal rite in, [171]
  • vestments of, [176] et seqq.
• Augustine cited, [38]
• Aurelian, his grant of oraria to the Romans, [38]
• Autun, MS. at, on vestments of the Gallican church, [29], [135]
• Honorius of. See Honorius
  • Bishops of, their privileges, [102]
• Auxanius, circumstances of his receipt of the pallium, [51]

• Bamberg, Bishops of, their privileges, [102]
• Bands, origin and development of, [208]
  • when worn in Presbyterian church, [209]
• Baptismal vestments of administrator, [36], [122], [222]; of baptized, [171]
  • alba, [36]
  • stole, [222]
• Bells and pomegranates, [6]
• Benedict III, life of, quoted, [66]
• Benediction of vestments, [212]
• Biretta, birettum, [150], [201]
• Bishops, insignia of, [27], [28], [213]
  • stole, how worn by, [74]
  • dalmatic of, [79]
  • wearing archiepiscopal insignia, [102]
  • subcingulum once worn by, [107]
  • vestments worn by, on different occasions, [221]. See also under the names of different vestments
• Bloxam quoted, [80]
• Bonanni quoted, Appendix i
• Boniface VIII adds crown to tiara, [121]
• Bonnet of Levitical priest, [5]
• Brachialia, [122]
• Braga, Councils of. See Council
• Breastplate of the ephod, [9]
• Breeches, [4]
• Bucer quoted, [195]
• Bullinger quoted, [104]
• Buskins. See Stockings
• Byrrhus, [33]

• Caligae. See Stockings
• Calliculae, [59]
• Canons. See Council
• Canon's cope, [148], [220]
• Cap, Levitical, [5]
  • ecclesiastical, [149]
  • Malabar, [177]
  • university, [256]
• Cappa, monastic, [235]
  • serica, [148]
  • manicata, [256]
  • clausa, [256]
  • See also Cope
• Caputium, [235], [254]
• Cardinals wear scarlet cassock, [139]
• Carthage, Council of. See Council
• Cashel, crozier of, [127]
• Cassianus quoted, [44]
• Cassikin, [204]
• Cassock, description of, [138]
  • distinction of ecclesiastical rank in, [139]
  • modern, [139]
  • in Presbyterian church, [207]
  • in universities, [255]
• Casula in Gallican church, [29], [135]
  • secular, [43], [44]
  • See also Chasuble
• Celebrant, vestments of, [214]
• Celestine, Pope, his letter on vestment ritual, [26], [46], [57]
• Cencio de Sabellis quoted, [107], [108]
• Chain, golden, [103]
• Χαμαλαύχη, [176], [188], [234]
• Chambre, Will. de, quoted, [141]
• Charles I, his ordinance respecting vestments, [204]
• Charles the Great, [60]
• Chasuble (see also Planeta), [64]
  • materials of, [81]
  • eucharistic and processional, [82]
  • description and varieties of, [83], [84]
  • dimensions of, [86]
  • ornamentation of, [86], [152]
  • symbolism of, [89]
  • forbidden in English church, [201]
  • folded, when worn, [215]
• Childebert consents to bestowal of pallium, [51]
• Chimere, [148], [199]
• Chirothecae. See Gloves
• Choir, vestments of, [148], [220]
• Chorkappa, [194]
• Chrismale, [171]
• Chrysome, [172]
• Cicero quoted, [43]
• Cidaris, [112]
• Clark, Professor E. C., quoted, [253], et seqq.
• Clavi, [31], [32], [42], [49], [58], [80]
• Clement, liturgy of, [15], [19]
• Coat of fine linen, [4]
• Collar, Roman, [148]
• Colobium, [32]-36
  • in the universities, [256]
• Colours, liturgical, unknown in Early church, [58]
  • in Western church, [223]
  • in Eastern church, [230]
• Commodus, [33]
• Consecration of Archbishop Parker, [198]
• Constantius, [17]
• Cope, origin of, [146]
  • description and material of, [146]
  • hood of, [147]
  • morse of, [147]
  • canon's, [148], [220]
  • ornamentation of, [153]
  • for most part forbidden in English church, [201]
  • worn by minister, [217]
  • university, [256]
• Corinthians, First Epistle to, quoted, [22]
• Cornette, Cornetum, [255]
• Coronation robes, [162]. See Dalmatic, imperial
• Cotta, [141]
• Council, second of Braga, [40]
  • fourth of Braga, [40], [41]
  • fourth of Carthage, [30]
  • of Mayence, [41]
  • first of Narbonne, [30]
  • fourth of Toledo, [27], [31], [35], [39], [53], [55], [64], [114], [122]
  • See also Synod
• Coverdale, vestments worn by, [198]
  • cited, [200]
• Cross-staff, [125], [130]
• Crozier. See Pastoral staff
• Cuthino, [177], [180]
• Cyprian, St, of Carthage, [33]
• Cyril, Bishop of Jerusalem, [17]

• Dalmatic (see also Dalmatica), [64]
  • derived from alba, [78]
  • episcopal and diaconal, [79], [214]
  • ornamentation of, [80], [152]
  • symbolism of, [79], [81]
  • by whom worn, [214]
  • imperial, [229]
• Dalmatica, a vestment in Rome, [29], [45], [53]
  • secular, [32]
  • Sylvester's decree concerning, [34]
  • Isidore on, [35]
• David wears ephod, [8]
• Deacon, insignia of, [28], [34], [52], [214]
  • when to wear alba, [30]
  • Sylvester's decree respecting vestments of, [34], [52]
  • stole, how worn by, [74]
  • dalmatic of, [79]
  • folded chasuble, when worn by, [215]
• Degrees, Mediaeval university, [253]
  • how distinguished by dress, [254]
• De Saussay quoted, [58]
• Destruction of vestments, [168]
• Development of vestments, chaps. i-iii passim
• Doctors of Divinity wear scarlet cassocks, [139]
  • wear gray almuces, [142]
• Doeg, [8]
• Dol, Bishops of, their privileges, [102]
• Dolby, Mrs, quoted, [69], [144], [149]
• Dominica in albis depositis, [172]
• Dorsal orphrey, [88]
• Doubles, [220]
• Drawers, [4]
• Dublin, Synod of. See Synod
• Duchesne quoted, [50]
• Dunstan, St, figure of, [97], [116], [118]
• Durandus quoted, [106], [134], [172]
• Durham Rites quoted, [167]

• Eastern Churches, vestments of, chap. v
• Ἐγκόλπιον, [176], [188], [191]
• Elagabalus, [33]
• Embroidery. See Apparels, Orphreys
  • Oriental, [162]
• England, excellence of embroidery in, [163]
  • destruction of vestments in, [169]
  • vestments of church of, [194]
• Ephod, description of, [6], [7]
  • girdle of, [7]
  • by whom worn, [8]
  • worshipped, [8], [9]
  • proper name, [9]
  • breastplate of, [9]
  • Latin name for amice, [257]
• Ἐπιγονάτιον, [108], [176], [186], [191]
• Ἐπιμανίκια, [136], [176], [180], [191], [233]
• Epiphanius quoted, [113]
• Epitogium, [254]
• Ἐπιτραχήλιον, [50], [176], [182], [191], [233]
• Estla, [190]
• Eucharistic vestments, chap. iii
  • chasuble, [82]
• Ἐξωχαμαλαύχη, [176], [188], [191]
• Exodus, book of, quoted, [4]-8

• Fabius, [33]
• Fagius quoted, [195]
• Ferula, [58]
• Fife, Synod of. See Synod
• Final period of vestments, chap. iii
• Flower of chasuble, [89]
• Folkestone ritual case, [201]
• Fountains Abbey mitre, [119]

• Gallican church, vestments of, [29], [135]
• Gammadia, [58]
• Garland, baptismal, [171]
• Genesis of vestments, chap. i
• Geneva gown, [208]
• Georgi quoted, [106]
• Germanus quoted, [18], [175], [178], [184]
• Germany, vestments in, [193]
• Gideon, [8]
• Girdle, Levitical, [4]
  • of ephod, [7]
  • ecclesiastical, [64], [70]. See also ζώνη
  • contrasted with subcingulum, [107], [109]
• Gloves, [64]
  • when recognised as vestments, [121]
  • symbolism of, [122]
  • ornamentation of, [152]
  • by whom worn, [214]
• Gold plate, apostolic, [112]
• Golden chain (loop of pall), [103]
• Gona, [254]
• Gown, black preaching, [202], [204]
  • monastic, [235]
  • university. See Toga
  • See also Geneva gown
• Gregory the Great quoted, [28], [45], [51], [52], [104]
  • picture of, [54]
  • sacramentary of, [55]
• Gypcière, [108]

• Head-dress, ecclesiastical, [149]
  • university, [256]
• High Priest, vestments of, [6] et seq.
• Holland, church of, vestments in, [22], [210]
• Homer cited, [20]
• Honorius of Autun quoted, [64], [69], [75], [103], [109], [111], [121], [122], [123], [131]
• Hood of chasuble, [82]
  • of cope, [147], [153]
  • monastic, [235]
  • university, [254]
• Hope, Mr St John, quoted, [144], [166]
• Hosea quoted, [8]
• Humeral orphrey, [88]
• Hurrâra, [190]

• Infulae, [118], [129]
• Innocent III quoted, [58], [64], [69], [75], [89], [96], [103], [107], [131], [134], [225]
• Innocent IV covets English orphreys, [163]
• Institution of bishops, [55]
• Inventory of Boniface VIII, [75]
  • Canterbury, [65]
  • Dover, [65]
  • Lincoln, [81], [129], [158], [166]
  • London, St Mary Hill, [141]
  • Peterborough, [65], [66], [68]
  • Westminster, [65], [70], [218]
  • Winchester, [65], [129]
• Irish crozier, [126], et seqq.
• Isidore of Seville, [27], [35], [54], [55], [56], [58], [112], [115], [122], [126]
• Issues of the Exchequer quoted, [164]
• Ivo of Chartres quoted, [52], [64], [69], [89], [96], [105], [111], [122]

• James I prescribes vestments for Scotland, [203]
• Jerome, [15]-18, [114]
• Jewel, Bishop, cited, [104]
• Jewish vestments, [2]-14, [18], [136]
• Joannes Diaconus, his portrait of Gregory I, [54]
• John, Bishop of Ravenna, [53]
• Josephus quoted, [4]-10 passim
• Judges, Book of, [8], [9]

• Kamelauch, [234]
• Κίδαρις, [112]
• Kodi, [177], [186]
• Κολόβιον. See Colobium
• Kulpas, [189]

• Lampridius quoted, [33], [43], [44]
• Λαμπρός, meaning of, [19]
• Landulphus, pontifical of, [40]
• Laoghairé, druids of King, their prophecy, [115], [128]
• Lector, [213]
• Leo III, [58]
• Letters on vestments, [59]
• Levitical vestments. See Jewish
• Limerick mitre, [120]
• Lincolnshire, destruction of vestments in, [170]
• Lineae = tails of pall, [104]
• Linen breeches, [4]
  • tunic, [4]
• Liripipe, [254]
• Liturgical colours. See Colours
• Liturgy of Clement. See Clement
• Lituus, [56]
• Λωρία, [180]
• Lucca, Bishops of, their privileges, [102]
• Luther, reformation of, [193]

• Macarius, [17]
• Mafors, [246]
• Maimonides quoted, [4]
• Malabar vestments, [177] et seqq.
• Μάνδυας, [176], [187], [191], [234]
• Manicae, [121], [135]
• Maniple, [64], [180]. See also Mappula
  • description of, [75]
  • symbolism of, [77]
  • ornamentation of, [151]
  • by whom worn, [214]
• Mantelletum, [199]
• Mantellum, [245], [255]
• Mantle, [210]
• Manualia, [29], [135]
• Mappula, a Roman vestment, [29], [45]
  • origin of, [52]
  • spread of, [53], [54]
• Marriott quoted, [15], [16], [19], [25], [29], [50], [62], [94], [115], [122]
• Martene, [29]
• Mayence, Council of. See Council
• Menard, [115]
• Mesnaemphthes, [5]
• Messesjorta, [194]
• Messhake, [194]
• Micah, [8]
• Minerva Library, pontifical in, [37]
• Minister, dress and duties of, at mass, [217], [219], [220]
• Mitre, Levitical, [10]
  • ecclesiastical, [64]
  • origin of, [112]
  • early, [114]
  • development of, [116]
  • infulae of, [118]
  • ornamentation of, [118]
  • various kinds of, [119]
  • by whom worn, [214]
• Monastic dress, appendix i
  • Eastern, [234]
• Monuments, etc., cited—
  • Arundel, [156]
  • Bamberg, [102], [125]
  • Bathampton, [85]
  • Beverley, [71], [157]
  • Birmingham, [145]
  • Broadwater, [156]
  • Caerleon, [49]
  • Cambridge, [150]
  • Chesham Bois, [172], [173]
  • Cobham, [145]
  • Ely, [74], [133], [202]
  • Fontevraud, [230]
  • Fulbourne, [156]
  • Havant, [156]
  • Hereford, [145], [219]
  • Horsham, [220]
  • Kilkenny, [90]
  • Lübeck, [193]
  • Mayence, [100], [117], [118], [125]
  • Milton, [77]
  • Norwich, [219]
  • Oxford, [125], [145]
  • Randworth, [78]
  • Ravenna, [46]
  • St David's, [80]
  • Salisbury, [117]
  • Sessay, [147]
  • Shelford, Great, [156]
  • Towyn, [71]
  • Wells, [144], [201], [215], [216], [219]
  • Winwick, [83]
  • Worcester, [67]
  • Wyvenhoe, [76]
• Morse, [110], [147]
• Mozetta, [142], [148]
• Msane, [190]

• Names of vestments, [68]
• Narbonne, bishop of, rebuked, [26]
  • council of. See Council
• Nestorian vestments, [189]
• Nicholas I, Pope, [51]
• Numbers, Book of, quoted, [9]

• Ὠμοφόριον, [50], [176], [187], [191], [233]
• Orale, [64], [134], [153]
• Ὠράριον, [50], [176], [184], [191], [233]
• Orarium, [27], [28], [47], [73]. See also Stole
  • derivation of name, [38]
  • secular, [38], [49]
  • canons respecting, [39], [40], [41]
  • origin of, [38], [49], [50]
• Oriental embroidery, [162]
• Origin of vestments, chap. i
• Ornamentation of vestments, [58], [66], [87], [150] et seqq.
• Ornaments rubric, [200]
• Orphreys, [72], [73], [87], [88], [153]
• Orro, [177], [184]
• Ostia, Bishops of, their privileges, [102]
• Ostiarius, [213]
• Ouches, [7]

• Paenula, [43], [44], [49], [186]
• Pall, [64], [187]. See also Pallium
  • material and development of, [96]
  • history of individual specimens, [99]
  • by whom and when worn, [96], [100], [102]
  • symbolism of, [102]
  • cost of, [104]
  • not ornamented, [98], [152]
• Pallium, monastic cloak, [26], [46], [235], [245]
  • vestment = pall, [29], [47]-51, [135]
  • linostimum, [34], [46], [52]
• Paris, Matthew, quoted, [163]
• Parker, consecration of Archbishop, [198]
• Pasbans, [177], [182]
• Pastoral staff, [27], [64]
  • by whom carried, [28], [57], [214]
  • origin of, [56]
  • description and development of, [57], [126] et seqq.
  • erroneous views concerning, [124]
  • Irish form of, [126] et seqq.
  • infula of, [129]
  • symbolism of, [129], [131]
• Πατέρεσσα, [176], [188], [191]
• Paul, St, quoted, [22], [35]
• Pavia, Bishops of, their privileges, [102]
• Peacock, Mr E., quoted, [170]
• Pectoral cross, [134], [188], [189], [191]
  • orphrey, [88]
• Pelagians, Jerome's letter against the, [17], [19]
• Pellicea, [140]
• Periods of history of vestments, [25]
• Perizona, [109]
• Πέταλον, [112], [113]
• Φαιλόνη, [35]
• Phaino, [177], [186]
• Φαινόλιον, [176], [186], [191], [233], [234]
• Pileus, [151], [256]. See also Cap
• Pins of pall, [97], [98]
  • symbolism of, [104]
• Planeta, [28]
  • secular, [44]
• Plate, gold on mitre, Levitical, [10]
  • apostolic, [112]
• Plautus quoted, [43]
• Pollux, Julius, quoted, [43]
• Polybius cited, [20]
• Polycrates quoted, [113]
• Poor-ourar, [176], [184]
• Pope, grant of pall by, [51], [99], [214]
  • his bearing the pastoral staff, [57], [131]
  • insignia of, [105], [106], [119], [130], [134], [135], [139], [214]
• Prayer-Book of 1549, [195]
  • 1552, [197]
  • 1559, [197]
• Prazôna, [190]
• Pre-sanctified, Mass of, [217], [220]
• Presbyterians, vestments of, [205]
• Priests, insignia of, [27], [41], [74], [214]
• Priest's cap, Levitical, [5]
• Primitive period of vestments, chap. i, [25]
• Processional vestments, chap. iv
  • chasuble, [82]
• Pseudo-Alcuin. See Alcuin

• Rabanus Maurus quoted, [12], [62], [68], [89], [92], [96], [122]
• Rational, [64], [110]-112, [152]
• Ravenna, mosaics at, [46]-48
  • John, Bishop of, [53]
• Reformed churches, vestments of, chap. vi
• Reichel, Rev. O. J., [50]
• Requiem, vestments worn at, [223]
• Rhinthon cited, [43]
• Ring, [54], [64]
  • by whom worn, [27], [54], [214], [228]
  • description and symbolism of, [123]
• Ripon Treasurer's Rolls quoted, [174]
• Ritual uses of vestments, chap. vii
• Roba Talaris, [254]
• Robe of the ephod, [6]
• Rochet, [141], [199]
• Rock, Dr, quoted, [48], [49], [66], [67], [75], [85], [106], [108], [114], [115], [134], [135], [144]
• Roman civil costume, [14] et seqq., chap. ii passim
• Rubenius, Albertus, quoted, [38]
• Rulers of the choir, their insignia, [131], [221]

• Sabanum, [171]
• Sabellis, Cencio de, [107], [108]
• Sacramentary of Gregory the Great, [55]
• Sagavard, [177], [188], [189]
• Σάκκος, [176], [188], [191], [234]
• Salisbury missal quoted, [68]
• Sampson, Thomas, quoted, [199]
• Samuel, Book of, quoted, [8]
  • wears ephod, [8]
• Sandals, [64]
  • development and description of, [90], [91], [95]
  • by whom worn, [91], [214]
  • symbolism of, [92] et seqq., [96]
  • ornamentation of, [91], [152]
  • Armenian, [189]
• Saul, [8]
• Scapular, [235], [245]
• Scarf of honour, [38]
  • of English church, [203]
  • of Presbyterian church, [207]
• Scarlet days, [255]
• Scipio, [33]
• Scotland, vestments in, [203]
  • Act of Assembly of church of, [209]
• Senchus Mór cited, [128]
• Septuagint cited, [18]
• Severus, edict concerning paenula, [43]
• Shaesha, [234]
• Shapich, [176], [180]
• Shoes, Malabar, [177]
• Shoochar, [177], [189]
• Shorshippa, [190]
• Simples, [220]
• Simplicity of early vestments, [11]
• Sinker, Dr., quoted, [113]
• Spain, vestments in, [204]
• Staff. See Pastoral Staff
• Stockings, [64]
  • by whom worn, [105], [214]
  • symbolism of, [105]
  • ornamentation of, [152]
• Στοιχάριον, [176], [178], [191], [233]
• Stola in Gallican church, [29], [135] See also Orarium, Stole
• Stole, [64], [182]
  • origin of, [72]
  • description of, [73], [75]
  • how worn, [74], [214]
  • symbolism of, [75]
  • ornamentation of, [151]
  • Spanish, [204]
  • worn by kings, [230]
  • baptismal, [222]
• Στολή, [18]
• Stolone, [215]
• Subcingulum, [64], [214]
  • history of, [106] et seqq.
• Subdeacons, insignia of, [28], [132], [214]
• Subiaco, fresco at, [108]
• Succinctorium. See Subcingulum
• Sudarium, [50]
• Superpellicea, [140]. See also Surplice
• Surplice, origin of, [140]
  • development and description of, [141]
  • varieties of, [141]
  • in England, [201]
  • in Scotland, [204]
  • when worn, [140], [217], [255]
• Sweden, vestments in, [194]
• Sylvester, Pope, decree respecting dress, [34]-36, [47], [52], [81]
• Symbolism, [56], [57], [68], [69], [70], [72], [75], [77], [79], [81], [85], [89], [92]-96, [102]-105, [121], [123], [129], [131], [176], [180], [184], [187]
• Symmachus grants a pallium, [51]
• Synagogue models followed by Early Christians, [13]
• Synod of Dublin, [169]
  • Fife, [210]

• Tabard, [256]
• Talith, [14]
• Talmud quoted, [10]
• Temple worship, [13]
• Teraphim, [9]
• Tertullian quoted, [114]
• Theodore, Archbishop of Laureacus, [51]
• Theodoret quoted, [17], [18]
• Thomas of Canterbury, St, his chasuble, [86]
• Tiara, [112]
  • papal, [119], [121]
• Tippet, [254], [255]
• Toga, [42], [45], [48]
  • university, [254]
• Toledo, Council of. See Council
• Transitional period of vestments, chap. ii
• Trebellius Pollio quoted, [29]
• Trèves, Pope bears pastoral staff in, [132]
• Tunic of linen, [4], [30]
  • of blue, [6]
  • monastic, [235]
• Tunica Alba. See Alba
  • Dalmatica. See Dalmatica
  • Manicata, [32]
• Tunicle, [64]
  • description of, [132]
  • by whom worn, [132], [214]
  • ornamentation of, [133], [153]
  • illegal in English church, [201]

• University costume, [253]
• Urban V. adds crown to tiara, [121]

• Vakass, [176], [188]
• Valerian quoted, [30]
• Value of vestments, [164]
• Vartabeds, insignia of, [189]
• Velum, [245]
  • quadrigesimale, [228]
• Verona, Bishops of, their privileges, [102]
• Vestimentum parvolum in Gallican church, [29], [135]
• Vesting, order of, [217], [231]
• Vienne, Bishop of, rebuked, [26]
• Vigilius, grant of a pallium by, [51]
• Virgilius, Archbishop of Arles, [51]
• Vopiscus, Flavius, quoted, [38]

• Walafrid Strabo quoted, [62], [81]
• Waldenses, vestments among, [206]

• Zando, [177], [182]
• Ζώνη, [176], [186], [191], [234]
• Zosimio, Procurator of Syria, [30]
• Zunnara, [190]
• Zunro, [177], [186]

THE END.

Elliot Stock, Paternoster Row, London.