Monks.
The dress of monks usually consists of the vestis, tunic or closed gown; the scapular, roughly speaking, a narrow, chasuble-like dress, with the front and back portions rectangular and of uniform width throughout; one or more open gowns (pallium or cappa); and the caputium or hood, fastened at the back and capable of being drawn over the head. 'Discalced' is not always to be taken in its fullest significance, or as signifying more than simply 'sandaled.' Different vestments are worn by individual orders or houses; the nature of these will be self-evident from their names.
1. Alexians.—Black vestis and pallium, both reaching a little below the knee: caputium.
2. Ambrose, St.—Dark-coloured gown with cappa and scapular. Discalced.
3. Antonius, St (Armenia).—Ample black tunic, girded, mantellum, cuculla, and caputium.
4. Antonius, St (Canons of).—Black gown signed with a blue T; girded white collar, black mantle, also signed with T. Others, who are devoted to manual labour, wear a similar dress, but tawny in colour. The T is a representation of a crutch, the symbol of sustaining and power.
5. Antonius, St (Egypt).—Black tunic and scapular, with round caputium. Discalced.
6. Antonius, St (Syria).—Long black gown with short round caputium, black leather girdle; over all, long black mantle.
7. Apostoli.—Tawny tunic with girdle of leather, scapular with caputium attached. Cappa, and in winter short and narrow mantellum.
8. Aubert, St (Canons regular of; Cambrai).—Violet cassock, and cap or biretta: white surplice.
9. Augustine, St.—Black tunic girded, black cape and hood. White may be worn indoors.
10. Avellanans.—White tunic, scapular, azure pallium, square biretta in place of mantellum.
11. Basil, St (Armenia).—Tunic and caputium white, scapular black.
12. Basil, St (Germany).—Tunic, long scapular, long broad cappa, caputium on shoulder, and a biretta on head in outline resembling the 'Tam o' Shanter' cap.
13. Basil, St (Greece).—Black woollen tunic, over which another with sleeves about three palms wide, open in front, with woollen fringes or loops of another (but still dark) colour, which can be fastened with small buttons. Head always covered with a cap, which conceals the ears. Caputium with vittae or streamers attached, which hang over the shoulders, and are said to typify the cross.
14. Basil, St (Italy or Spain).—Till 1443 resembling the Greek dress (No. 13). After that date, tunic, leather girdle, scapular, cuculla, caputium—all black.
15. Basil, St (Russia).—Like Greece (No. 13), with the addition of a small cuculla.
16. Benedict, St (St Justina of Padua).—Black woollen tunic to which a caputium is sewn. Scapular; cuculla from shoulder to feet with very wide sleeves.
17. Benedict, St (Clugniacs).—Black cappa clausa with rude sleeves or hood.
18. Benedict, St (India).—Black tunic somewhat short, white scapular, mantle, and caputium.
19. Bethlehemites.—Black woollen tunic with leather girdle; cappa, on left side of which a pannula with a representation of the manger at Bethlehem. Discalced. Black cap on head.
20. Birgitta, St.—Gray tunic and cuculla, to which a caputium is sewn, gray mantellum, signed with red cross, having a white roundle or plate at the centre.
21. Caelestines.—White, black caputium and scapular.
22. Camaldulenses (Hermits).—White woollen tunic, scapular and round caputium; cuculla (also white) in service. Black shoes.
23. Camaldulenses (Monks).—As Benedictines, but white, and the scapular is girded round the loins. Tunic with very wide sleeves, caputium, etc.
24. Capuchins.—Rough black woollen tunic girded with coarse rope; hood and cape. Discalced.
25. Carmelites.—Tunic, girdle, scapular, caputium, brown; cappa or mantle white. Hat on head black, except in Mantua, where it is white.
26. Carmelites a Monte Sacro.—Cappa shorter than that of the other Carmelites, and no cap on head at any time.
27. Carthusians.—Black woollen pallium, over which white gown passed over the head, and scapular with side loops.
28. Cistercians.—Benedict XII decreed brown as the Cistercian colour; but there was an uncertainty as to the interpretation of this decree; some, alleging that gray or black were included in the term 'brown,' wore those colours. To remedy this confusion, Sixtus IV decreed black or white: black caputium and scapular girded round loins; black cuculla added out of doors. In choir white.
29. Cistercians (Fogliantino).—Like the Benedictines in shape, white in colour. Formerly discalced everywhere, now only in France. Black wooden sandals worn in Italy.
30. Cistercians (La Trappe).—White cuculla with ample sleeves, girded; caputium.
31. Chariton, St.—Lion-coloured tunic, with black cuculla and caputium.
32. Choors (Canons regular of; Bordeaux).—White woollen vestis, white linen scapular; linen cotta in choir. Almuce, worn over the arms in summer, round the neck in winter.
33. Coloriti (Calabria).—Long tunic, with round caputium and mantellum from rough black natural wool; woollen girdle.
34. Columba, St (Avellana).—White woollen tunic or caputium, over which a scapular; a narrow pallium added out of doors.
35. Cross, St (Canons regular of; Coimbra).—Cassock, surplice, and almuce; the ordinary canonical dress.
36. Crucifers (Italy).—Blue tunic (formerly ash-coloured, or uncertain), scapular, and hood. Silver cross constantly borne in the hand.
37. Crucifers (Belgium).—White tunic, scapular, and caputium; black mozetta, signed in front with a red and white cross.
38. Crucifers (Lusitania).—Blue tunic, over which gown, mozetta and hood. A pallium added out of doors.
39. Crucifers (Syria).—Black.
40. Dionysius, St (Canons regular of; Rheims).—Long surplice, over which (in winter) a cappa clausa without armholes. Biretta. Almuce worn over arm.
41. Dominic, St.—Tunic, scapular, and broad round caputium of white wool. Black cappa, shorter than the tunic, added out of doors.
42. Fontis Ebraldi (Fontevraud).—Black tunic girded, scapular, caputium.
43. Francis, St.—Ash-coloured tunic girded with a cord divided by three knots; round caputium and mozetta.
44. Francis, St (de observantia).—Woollen tunic girded with cord; cape, hood; colour formed by mixture of two parts of black wool to one of white. Discalced, in wooden or leathern sandals.
45. Franciscans (of St Peter of Alcantara).—Rough and patched tunic girded with cord; cape and hood. Feet entirely unprotected.
46. Francis de Paul, St (Fratres minimi).—Woollen tunic, dark tawny colour with round caputium, whose ends hang below the loins before and behind, both girded by a rope, the free end of which is knotted with five knots (novices knot three knots only). Pallium reaching a little below the knees, worn in winter both indoors and out. Formerly discalced, with sandals of various materials; afterwards, however, this practice was dispensed with.
47. Genovefa, St (Canons regular of).—White vestis and rochet, black biretta, fur almuce over left arm. In winter a long black pallium is added to the vestis and rochet, and a black caputium or hood.
48. George in Alga, St (Canons regular of).—Cassock, over which a blue gown.
49. Gilbert, St (Canons regular of).—Black cassock and hood, and surplice lined with lamb's wool. Linen cappa added at service.
50. Gramontans.—Any dress, very rough. The 'reformed' dress is a rough white linen tunic, over which another, thinner, of black; scapular and caputium.
51. Hermits (Egypt).—Tawny tunic, black pallium.
52. Hippolytus St, (Brothers of Mercy of).—Brownish tunic, scapular, hood.
53. Humiliati.—White tunic, scapular, mantle, cape, and cap.
54. James, St (Canons regular of; Spada).—White woollen vestis and rochet.
55. Jerome, St (Hermits of).—White woollen tunic, scapular with round caputium, cappa open in front: all black wool.
56. Jerome, St (Hermits of; foundation of Lupo Olmedo).—White tunic girt with black leather girdle round loins; small round caputium and tawny cuculla. Black biretta worn at home.
57. Jerome, St (Hermits of; foundation of Peter Gambacorta).—Tawny tunic girded with leather girdle, tawny crimped cappa, round and narrow caputium, square black biretta.
58. Jerome, St (Fiesole).—Tawny woollen vestis with crimped cappa open in front. Leather girdle. Discalced; wooden sandals, afterwards abandoned.
59. Jesuati.—White tunic, square caputium, gray cappa (after 1367). A white appendage, like a sleeve, worn instead of caputium, changed by Urban VIII for a caputium of the same colour as the mantle.
60. Johannis Dei, St.—Dark ash-coloured tunic with scapular reaching to knees;[104] round, pointless caputium. Black cap added out of doors.
61. John, St (Canons regular of; Chartres).—White vestis and rochet; almuce over left shoulder.
62. John, St (Hermits of; de Pœnitentia).—Rough woollen cloth, tunic and cappa with hood, feet entirely unprotected, heavy wooden cross suspended in front from neck.
63. John Baptist, St (Canons regular of; England).—Black or brown vestis, scapular, cappa clausa, and mantle, all signed with a black cross.
64. Klosterneuburg (Canons regular of; Austria).—White surplice and black cappa, for which latter an almuce is substituted on festival days.
65. Lirinenses (Lerina Island, Tuscany).—Tunic and mantle girded with scarf, over this sleeved cappa aperta with small caputium: all black.
66. Lo, St (Canons regular of; Rouen).—Violet cappa, violet mozetta or cape, and hood in winter; white cassock and rochet.
67. Macharius, St (Egypt).—Violet tunic, black scapular, small cuculla; cap on head covering hair, forehead, temples, and ears.
68. Mark, St (Canons regular of; Mantua).—White woollen vestis, rochet, pallium, for which latter a mozetta is substituted in choir and a white biretta added. Sheepskin almuce on left arm.
69. Martin, St (Esparnai [Aspreniacum, Campania]).—Vestis talaris of white, above which a sarrocium or scorligium, which is a species of rochet, described by Mauburnus.[105]
70. Mary, St (de Mercede Redemptionis Captivorum).—White tunic, scapula, short caputium, and cappa. A small shield bearing party per fess in chief gules a cross pattée argent in base three pallets (the base charge is the arms of the Kingdom of Arragon), is worn in front.
71. Mary, St (de Mercede Redemptionis Captivorum, another dress).—In this the caputium is prolonged and the feet discalced.
72. Mary, St (Servants of).—Coarse tunic, scapular, cappa and hood: all black.
73. Maurice, St (Canons regular of).—Cassock, rochet, purple cape or mozetta, biretta.
74. Monte Luca (Hermits of).—Tunic, short chasuble-like scapular, mantle and hood and cap or hat, the latter optional; all tawny colour. Some are discalced, others with shoes or sandals.
75. Monte Senario (Hermits of).—Black tunic, scapular, pallium extending below knees, caputium.
76. Monte Vergine (in Avellina; monks of).—Tunic, scapular, and cuculla; out of doors pallium and cap substituted for cuculla. All white.
77. Olivetans.—White vestis with wide sleeves, caputium crispatum on shoulder.
78. Pachomius, St.—White woollen tunic and cuculla, the latter signed with a violet cross.
79. Pamplona (Canons regular of).—Cassock, alb, sleeveless rochet, ash-coloured mozetta.
80. Paul, St (Hermits).—White woollen vestis, rather short, with short mantellum over, and short caputium; discalced.
81. Paul, St (Monks).—White tunic sleeved, caputium, and collar round shoulders. Out of doors, black cap and cloak (white in Hungary).
82. Peter, St (Canons regular of; Monte Corbulo).—At first gray cassock and rochet, and almuce or caputium; after 1521 black cassock, white-sleeved rochet, and black cloak.
83. Poland (Canons regular of).—White tunic and linen surplice reaching to about the knees, fur almuce about shoulders, dark-coloured skull-cap of wool edged with fur.
84. Portugal (Canons regular of).—White rochet and tunic, tawny almuce, and pallium.
85. Premonstratensians.—White tunic and scapular, sewn up in front, white sleeveless cappa without girdle, white biretta, almuce, white shoes. (The white is all natural, not dyed.)
86. Rouen (Canons regular of the Priory of the Two Lovers).—White tunic or alb and rochet, almuce.
87. Rufus, St (Canons regular of; France).—White cassock buttoned up in front, white girdle, black biretta.
88. Sabba, St.—Tawny tunic girded, with black scapular. Discalced.
89. Saviour, St (Canons regular of; Laterans).—White buttoned cassock, linen rochet. Out of doors black pallium and biretta.
90. Saviour, St (Canons regular of; Lorraine).—Black tunic with little linen rochet hanging down from the neck to the left side, five inches broad, like a girdle, over which in choir a cotta, and gray almuce carried on the arm in summer; in winter a full sleeveless rochet with cappa reaching to the ankles of black linen, whose front edges are decorated with red cloth about a foot wide. Caputium, whose front edge surrounds the face like an almuce, with fur about two inches wide.
91. Saviour, St (Canons regular of; Sylva Lacus Selva).—White woollen tunic, rochet and scapular, black cappa.
92. Sepulchre, the Holy (Canons regular of).—White rochet, black cappa and caputium. At the left side of the cappa a Greek cross cantoned by crosslets in red.
93. Sepulchre, the Holy (Canons regular of; Bohemia, Poland, Russia).—Black vestis and rochet, over which a mantelletum—a waistcoat or rochet-like vestment, sleeveless, but rather long, open in front, and reaching to a little above the knees—on the left side of which a double-transomed cross.
94. Sylvester, St.—Tunic, caputium, scapular, cuculla of blue. Biretta worn on sacred occasions.
95. Trinitatis, SS (Redemptionis Captivorum).—White tunic, scapular, and cappa, with red and blue cross flory on the scapular and left side of the cappa.
96. Trinitatis, SS (Redemptionis Captivorum; Spain).—Cappa brown, otherwise as above described. By others in Spain a tawny cappa is worn, and the feet are discalced. Round black caputium added.
97. Trinitatis, SS (Redemptionis Captivorum; France).—All white, the cross plain; feet discalced; caputium also white.
98. Usetz (Canons regular of).—White buttoned tunic and surplice, extinguisher-shaped, like the ancient chasuble.
99. Valle de Choux (Burgundy, between Dijon and Autun, Canons regular of).—White, black scapular, girded with black girdle.
100. Valle Ronceaux (Canons regular of).—Black, with white scapular, very small, and resembling archiepiscopal pall. Black cappa added in service.
101. Valle di Scholari (Canons regular of).—White woollen tunic and scapular; black cappa lined with lamb's wool, biretta.
102. Valley of Jehoshaphat (Canons regular of).—Full red cuculla and caputium.
103. Vallis Viridis (near Brussels; Canons regular of).—Black tunic and cassock, white rochet, black caputium.
104. Vallumbrosans.—Identical with the Sylvestrines, but grayish-black instead of blue.
105. Victor, St, Without the Walls (Canons regular of; Paris).—White tunic and wide-sleeved surplice, almuce, biretta.
106. Vindesheim (Canons regular of).—White tunic and rochet, biretta, fur almuce added on shoulders in winter.
107. William, St (Hermits of).—Tunic, over which another sleeveless, girded. Scapular, feet entirely unprotected. At first white, but black after union with the Augustinians.