Flower-Garden.
OCTOBER.
OF PLANTING VARIOUS BULBOUS FLOWER ROOTS.
From the middle of October to the beginning of November is the best period for a general planting of Dutch bulbs.
Cròcuses are the earliest in flower, and may be planted about six inches off the edgings, about four inches apart and two deep, or in beds four feet wide; the varieties selected and planted across the bed in rows of distinct colours, they flowering so early, and in that manner have a grand effect. There are above sixty varieties to be had.
Hyacinths. The ground that was prepared for these last month, should be all divided into beds four feet wide, leaving between each alleys of twenty inches. Skim off three inches of the surface of the former into the latter, level the bed smoothly with the rake, and mark it off in rows eight inches apart. Plant the roots in the row eight inches asunder. Thus they will be squares of eight inches, and by planting the different colours alternately the bed will be beautifully diversified. Press each root gently down with the hand, that in covering up they may not be displaced. Put about four inches of earth over the crowns, which will make the beds from two to three inches higher than the alleys. The beds before and after planting should be gently rounded from the middle to each side to let the rain pass off. Finish all by raking evenly, straighten the edgings with the line, and clear out the alleys or pathways.
Tulips like a lighter and richer earth than Hyacinths. Prepare the beds in the same manner, and so as the roots will stand nine inches apart each way; cover them five inches deep, as the new bulbs are produced above the old.
If it is intended to screen either of these while in flower, the beds should be made wider. Where two beds are to be shaded under one awning, make the alleys alternately two or three feet wide; the one two feet wide to be under the awning.
Polyanthus and Italian Narcissus, may be planted in every respect as Hyacinths, only they require a lighter and richer soil.
Jonquils. Plant these in the same soil as Tulips, six inches apart, and cover three inches deep. They do not flower so well the first year as in the second and third, therefore should only be lifted every third year.
Anemones and Ranunculuses. These roots like a fresh rich, well pulverized, loamy soil. In light sandy soils they will languish in early droughts, and sometimes do not show their flowers fully. Cow manure is the best to use for enriching the soil. The whole should be well mixed and incorporated to the depth of eighteen or twenty inches. The roots may be planted in four-foot beds, or in such a manner as a low frame of boards can be placed over them, when the winter sets in very severe. If intended to be shaded while in flower, leave a sufficiency of space in the alleys as directed for Tulips and Hyacinths. Do not raise the beds above one inch higher than the alleys, and form the surface level, in order to detain rather than throw off moisture. Then draw drills exactly two inches deep and six inches apart across the bed. In these place the roots, claws down, about four inches distant from each other. The roots of the Anemones are flat, and the side on which there are small protuberances, is that from which the stems proceed. Press each root a little down with the hand, and cover all carefully so as not to displace them. Smooth the surface with the rake, leaving the bed quite level.
Many other bulbous flowers might be added to the above; but as their culture is so similar, it would be superfluous to say more of them. They should be allowed space and depth according to the size of the bulb; a covering of two inches for the smallest, and five for the largest, will generally answer, and the intermediate roots in proportion. We will enumerate a few of the different kinds, Starch and Musk Hyacinths; of Narcissus, the Paper, Grand Monarque, and Nodding, with the two previously mentioned, are the most profuse in flower. Some of them will have above twelve flowers on one stem. Of Lilies, all the varieties of Mártagon, Tigrìnum and Chalcedónicum, with our native species and varieties. Of Iris, Lusitánica, two varieties, yellow and blue; Xiphioídes, or Ziphioídes; and Pérsica, are the finest of the bulbous sorts. Snow-drop with several other minor bulbs.
All of these flowering bulbs may be advantageously planted in patches through the garden by taking out about one square foot of earth. Break it well, and if poor enrich it. Plant four bulbs in each of the same colour, and the clumps that are contiguous to contain different colours.
PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTING.
This is a very proper period to plant the beautiful and early flowering Pyrus japónica, now called Cydónia japónica. The blossoms are of a rich scarlet colour. It is the earliest flowering shrub of the garden, and deciduous, though said by some to be "an evergreen." The plant is bushy, and well adapted for single plants in grass plats, or forming low ornamental hedges. There is likewise C. j. álba, a fine white variety of the same habit, and both are of the hardiest nature—also for the various species of Anemònes and all the herbaceous Pæonias.
Of the latter there are above nineteen species and twenty-two varieties, a few of which are particularly esteemed, and exceedingly handsome. P. èdulis whitlíji is a splendid large double P èdulis white; P. Hùmei is a beautiful large double dark blush; P. èdulis fràgrans is a fine large double scarlet, rose-scented variety. These three plants ought to be in every garden. The flowers are full in the centre, and frequently above six inches in diameter; P. álba chinènsis is said to be the largest and finest of the herbaceous sorts; colour pure white, with pink at the bottom of the petals—it is a scarce variety; P. paradóxa fimbàtria, fringed double red, and esteemed; P. officinális rúbra is the common double red. There are several other very fine single species and varieties, the flowers of which are principally red or blush, but none so magnificent as the above mentioned. This is perhaps a more favourable period to plant Dodecátheon than March; for its character see that month of this department. Asclèpias tuberòsa should now be planted.
Double Primroses, Polyanthus, Daisies, &c. Any of these that were planted in shaded situations in spring, and have been preserved through the summer, should have for their farther protection a bed well sheltered from the north west, in which they should be planted four inches apart. Give them a few sprinklings of water in the morning, and have a temporary frame of rough boards put together to place over them during the severity of winter. The frame may be covered with the same in place of glass, which must be kept over them while they are in a frozen state.
Any other plants that are in the ground, which are intended to be protected with frames through the winter, ought to be immediately lifted and potted; and treated as directed for all new potted plants.
GRASS AND GRAVEL WALKS.
The former should be trimly cut and well rolled this month, that they may appear neat all winter. Never allow decayed leaves to lay any time upon them, as they are apt to rot out the grass. The latter should be divested of every weed, and receive a firm rolling. Clear them at all times of leaves and other litter. These, if on a declivity, and have not a firm substantial bottom, will be subject to be cut up with every heavy rain. A break should be put in every twenty, forty, or eighty feet, to throw off the water. A strong plank will answer perfectly well, but in such situations we would prefer grass-walks.
PLANTING EVERGREENS.
This month is the best period in autumn to plant these shrubs, and where there is a great extent to be planted it would be advisable to do a part of it now; but we give the preference to April, which see for directions.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.
When the plantings of bulbs, &c. are finished, every part of the garden should have a thorough cleaning. All annual flowers will have passed the season of their beauty; therefore, remove the decayed flower stems or haulm, and trim off the borders. Dig all vacant ground, especially that intended to be planted with shrubs in the ensuing spring, which ought to be dug from one to two feet deep. Roses delight in a deep light soil.
[Rooms.]
OCTOBER.
Have a stage or stages, as described last month, in the situations where they are intended to remain all winter; place the plants on them from the first to the eighth of this month, beginning with the tallest on the top, graduating to the bottom. It is desirable to place flats or saucers under each, to prevent the water from falling to the floor, and the water should be emptied from the flats of all except those of Cálla and Hydrángea. The latter while dormant should be kept only a little moist.
Previous to taking in the plants, they should be divested of every decayed leaf, insects, and all contracted dust, having their shoots neatly tied up, and every one in correct order. Every leaf of the Caméllias ought to be sponged, and the plants placed in a cool airy exposure, shaded from the direct rays of the sun. If the flower buds are too crowded, picking off the weakest will preserve the remainder in greater perfection, and prevent them in part from falling off. Do not on any occasion keep them in a room where there is much fire heat, as the flower buds will not expand in an arid atmosphere. See Green-house this month more largely on this subject.
OF BULBOUS ROOTS.
Those that are intended to flower in glasses, should be placed therein this month and kept in a cool room. After the fibres begin to push a few shoots, the glasses may be taken to the warmest apartments to cause them to flower early. Bring a few from the coldest to the warmest every two weeks, and thus a succession of bloom may be kept up from January to March. Where the roots intended for pots are still out of the ground, the sooner they are planted the better. (See last month for directions.)
Cape Bulbs. All that are unplanted and offering to grow, should be put in pots forthwith. Ample directions are given for the planting of these in the two preceding months.
Repot Rùbus rosæfòlius, or Bramble-rose. They should have pots one size larger than those they are now in. To make them flower profusely, when done blooming in May, divide them and put only a few stems in one pot, and repot them in this month, as above directed.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.
Any herbaceous plants in the collection ought to be set aside, and the water in part withheld. When the stems and foliage are decayed, the plants may be put in a cool cellar, where they will not be in danger of frost, and be permitted to remain there until they begin to grow; then bring them to the light, and treat as directed for these kinds of plants. Deciduous plants may be treated in a similar manner.
[Hot-House.]
NOVEMBER.
The essential points to be attended to in the Hot-house during this month, are fire, air, and water. The former must be applied according to the weather, observing not to allow the temperature to be under fifty degrees, and it ought not to continue long at that degree; fifty-two degrees being preferable. The shutters should be on every night when there is any appearance of frost, and taken off early in the morning. Admit air in small portions every day that the sun has any effect, and the atmosphere mild, observing that the temperature of the house be above sixty degrees previous to admission. Shut all close early in the afternoon or when any sudden changes occur.
OF A CISTERN AND WATER.
In watering it is important to have the water of the same temperature in this department as the roots of the plants. To have this there are two kinds of cisterns, or tanks, that might be adopted; one may be sunk in the house under ground, either closely plastered, or lined with lead, and neatly covered up, having a small perpendicular pump therein, or placed so that the water could be lifted by hand. The other might, where convenience will admit, be placed over the furnace, either in the back shed, or inside of the house, and the water could be drawn off this by a stop-cock. These can be supplied in part with rain water by having spouts round the house to lead into the cisterns, supplying any deficiency from the pump. Thus water of a congenial temperature may always be at hand, which is of great importance to the healthful constitution of the plants. The water must now be given in moderate portions, examining the plants every day. Be careful in watering bulbs, as the smallest supply is sufficient for them at present. Succulents will require a little every two weeks, except they are over the flues, when they may have some every week.
Constantly clear off all decayed leaves, and carry them out of the house, which sweep and wash clean, and keep all in the neatest order.
[Green-House.]
NOVEMBER.
OF AIR AND WATER.
Airing the house should be strictly attended to. Every day that there is no frost it may be admitted largely, and in time of slight frosts in smaller portions, never keeping it altogether close when the sun has any effect on the interior temperature of the house, which should not be allowed to be higher than fifty degrees.
Water must be given in a very sparing manner. None of the plants are in an active state of vegetation, consequently it will be found that looking over them twice a week and supplying their wants will be sufficient. Succulents will need a little once in three weeks or a month. Give very moderate supplies to the Amaryllis that are dormant, and keep all of these bulbs in the warmest part of the house.
OF TENDER BULBS.
Where there are tropical bulbs in the collection, and there is not the convenience of a Hot-house; they may be very well preserved by shaking them clear of the soil. Dry them properly, and place them in a box of very dry sand, or moss, which also must be perfectly dry, and put them in a situation where they will be clear of frost, and free from damp. These can be potted about the first of April. Give no water till they begin to grow, then plant them in the garden about the middle of May, when they will flower during the summer season, if their age will permit.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.
If there are any of the half hardy plants exposed, have them taken into the house, or under the requisite protection, in frames, pits, cellars, &c. The autumn flowering Cape bulbs should be placed near the glass, and free from the shade of other plants. Cleanliness through the whole house and amongst the plants ought at all times to be attended to.
[Flower-Garden.]
NOVEMBER.
Wherever there are any Holland bulbs remaining unplanted, have them put in as soon as possible, lest frost should set in. It is not advisable to keep them later out of the ground than the beginning of this month.
PROTECTION OF CHOICE BULBS.
On the appearance of the severity of winter, the finer sorts of these should have a simple protection, not because they will not do without such care, but to prevent the alternate thawing and freezing of the embryo of the bulb. To give them a covering three inches deep of any of the following substances, will do perfectly well,—saw-dust not resinous, old tan bark, half decayed leaves, or very rotten manure. The last is preferable, as it would in part enrich the soil.
Anemònes and Ranunculus ought to be protected by a frame; the foliage being above ground, none of the above will answer. It is not necessary that the frame should be covered with glass, close boards will answer perfectly, which must not be over them except during frost.
TUBEROSES, DAHLIAS, TIGRIDIAS, AND AMARYLLIS.
These tubers and bulbs, as soon as the frost has partly injured the foliage, should be taken up, and dried thoroughly, either in the sun or a room where there is fire heat, taking care at all times to keep them clear from frost. When they are dry, divest them of their foliage and fibres. When perfectly dry, pack them in boxes with dry sand, or moss. Store these away for the winter, either in a warm room or a dry cellar, where they will at all times be exempt from frost, the least touch of which would destroy them. We have kept them completely secure in the cellar.
ERYTHRINAS.
Where there are any plants of E. herbàcea, E. laurifòlia, or E. crísta-gálla, which are intended to be lifted, they should be carefully done and preserved in half dry earth, and kept beside the Dáhlias. We are not sure of the former agreeing with this treatment, but certain of the others, which are magnificent ornaments in the Flower-garden.
PRIMROSES, POLYANTHUS, AND DAISIES,
That were planted in a sheltered spot, as directed last month, should have a frame placed over them, and their covering in readiness for the approach of winter; giving the plants a light covering of leaves, which will preserve their foliage from the effects of frost.
CHOICE CARNATIONS, PINKS, AND AURICULAS,
That are in pots, should be placed in the frame intended for their abode during winter. If the pots are plunged to the rims in tan, half decayed leaves, or saw dust, it will greatly protect their roots from the severe effects of frost. Where glass is used for these frames, they should have besides a covering of boards, or straw mats; those that are in beds may be covered as above directed for Primroses, &c.
They ought not to be uncovered while in a frozen state. It is not altogether the intensity of cold that destroys these plants so much as the alternate thawing and freezing.
All half hardy plants, such as Wall-flower, German stocks, Sweet-bay, tender roses, with several others, should be protected as above directed for Carnations. Earth or tan should be put round the outside of these frames, which will be a partial shelter from the changing state of the atmosphere. Oak leaves answer the purpose very well, but they are a harbour for all kinds of vermin, especially rats and mice, which would destroy every thing. It may be useful to say a few words on the nature of tan or tanner's bark. Many suppose that the smallest quantity will produce heat, If three or four cart loads of it are put into one heap, and protected from the rain, it will ferment; and when the first fermentation is abated, by mixing it with leaves, a substantial hot-bed may be made. Or put it by itself into a pit, and where there is no pit, boards may be substituted to keep it together; either of these methods will produce a lasting heat. But in small quantities and exposed to rain, &c. no heat will be produced, but rather the contrary. It is excellent when dry in keeping out frost from any plants, being a body not easily penetrated, similar to dry sand, saw-dust, or dry leaves. Frequently the same opinion is held in regard to stable manure, small portions of which will never produce heat.
OF PROTECTING PLANTS IN THE GARDEN.
During this or next month, according to the state of the season, protect all the plants that are in the ground, which are not completely hardy. To avoid repetition, these will be designated in the general list. The coverings may be straw, Russia mats, canvass, boxes or barrels. The two latter must be perforated in the top, to let the damp air pass off, or the plant would become musty, or finally mortify. Those covered with straw or mats should have small stakes placed round the plants, and covering tied thereto, and remain so until the month of March or first of April. Herbaceous plants that are tender, may be covered with three or four inches of tan, saw-dust, or half decayed leaves, which will tend greatly to preserve their roots. These coverings must be carefully removed on the first opening of spring. The shrubs that are otherwise covered would be greatly benefited by having their roots protected in a similar manner as directed for herbaceous plants.
PROTECTION OF SEEDLING BULBS.
If any seeds of Hyacinths, Tulips, Fritillària, were sown in pots or boxes, let them be removed to a dry sheltered situation, and plunged level with the ground; or fill the spaces between them with dry leaves or tanner's bark, and cover the whole with new fallen leaves, laying over all a few boards to prevent the wind blowing them off. These form better coverings than straw or haulm, which is liable to become musty, and communicate the effect to the roots. The above covering is not required until the approach of severe frost.
OF PLANTING DECIDUOUS TREES AND SHRUBS.
It is not recommendable to make a general planting of these at this period of the year; the success entirely depending on the nature of the season and the state of the soil. If any are planted, let them be those of the hardiest nature, and in light and absorbent soil, not subject to be stagnated or over-flooded during winter. When this and next month are mild, autumn plantings are frequently as sure as those of the spring. But the precarious state of the seasons is not to be depended upon, therefore avoid largo plantings of any kind, and more especially of delicate roses, the roots of which are apt to rot off except they have been previously grown in pots. Nothing can be more injurious to a plant at this season particularly, than to bed its roots in mortar, by which the tender fibres either perish or are cramped ever afterwards. The soil at time of planting should be so friable as not to adhere to the spade, which is a good rule in planting at any season, or in any soil.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.
Carry out of the garden all decayed leaves and litter of every description, cutting down any weeds that remain. Collect all the stakes and rods that have been supporting plants; tie them up in bundles for the use of next year, and put them under cover. Look over every part of the garden, and see that nothing has been omitted in the way of covering or other protection. The sashes that are to be used on the frames should be perfectly whole, every interstice in the glass puttied, and all ready for use when occasion may require. Attend to all plants in pots, and give them gentle waterings as they stand in need; but never during the time the soil is frozen about their roots.
[Rooms.]
NOVEMBER.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.
The remarks and instructions that are given last month for these apartments will equally answer here. Where the Dutch bulbs were omitted to be placed in glasses, they ought not to be longer delayed. A few pots of those that were planted in September may be placed in a warmer situation. If they were plunged in the ground, the roots will be strongly fibred, and will produce large flowers, providing the bulbs are of a good sort.
Oxàlis. The autumn flowering species will now be in bloom, and must be kept in the sun to make them expand freely. The neglect of this is the principal reason that these plants do not flower perfectly in Rooms.
Caméllias. These plants, where there is a collection, flower from this period to April; and the general desire to be fully acquainted with the method of their culture has induced us to be liberal in our observations on every point and period through the various stages of their growth and flowering. We will here only remind the enquirer, that a pure air, a damp atmosphere, and giving the plants frequent sprinklings, are the present necessities, which only are conducive to their perfection.
Attend to the turning of Geraniums and other rapid growing plants, that all sides of them may have an equal share of light.
[Hot-House.]
DECEMBER.
The uncertainty of the weather in this month requires the operator to be constantly on guard, to ward off danger, either from frost, snow, or cutting winds. The temperature observed last month must be continued, but not exceeded, which would cause premature vegetation, of which the result and effects have already been frequently observed. Always kindle the fires in time, to prevent the heat from being lower than what has been mentioned, lest a severe frost should take, as then a considerable lapse ensues before the fire has any effect, and if the wind blows high, the result might be injurious, unless the house be very close.
OF SHUTTERS.
The benefit of these in severe weather is of material service, for the preservation of an even temperature in the house during the night, when changes are not observed, but they ought never to remain on through the day when the fire can be properly attended to. If the front and the lowest sash of the roof are covered with these, it is generally sufficient. They should be made of half inch boards, closely grooved together, having a cross bar in the centre, and one at each end with one at each side, which will make them substantial. If they are frequently painted with care, they will last many years. No snow ought to be allowed to lay on these while they are on the glass, for reasons that we have assigned. See January and February.
Some adopt double panes of glass to supersede the use of shutters, which, they think are attended with considerable labour, (at the most only ten minutes a day while in use.) The sash frame is made a little deeper, so as to allow half an inch between the panes of glass. The one is glazed from the out and the other from the inside. It appears to answer the purpose tolerably well, but the glass must be both fine and even in the surface, lest a lens should be produced, and cause a focus, which would evidently hurt some part of the plants. We are almost confident that we have seen this effect in some instances. There must be a small hole about an eighth of an inch in both ends of each row of glass to allow a current to dry up the moisture that may arise.
OF PLACING BULBS, &c. IN THE HOT-HOUSE.
If any Hyacinths or other Dutch roots are wanted to flower early, a few of them may be put in the Hot-house near the front glass, which will greatly tend to forward their time of flowering. By having some brought in every two weeks, a continued succession of bloom will be kept up.
Calceolàrias. Two or three plants of the fine blooming kinds may be placed in this department, towards the end of the month. Divide the roots as soon as they begin to grow, leaving only one stem to each root, which put in a four inch pot, enlarging it as soon as the roots extend to the outside of the ball, that by the month of May they may be in seven or eight inch pots, in which they will flower superbly. Give Alstrœmèrias the same treatment.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.
If there is a tan bed in the house, and it was renewed in September, the pots should now be plunged therein. The violent heat will partly be over, and the plants are not so liable to suffer at root in this as last month. It will in part prevent the plants from being affected by sudden changes of temperature. Be attentive in keeping all insects completely under. This is the period that these are most neglected, but by attending to the modes of their destruction, as already given, no species of them will either be hurtful or unsightly. Syringe the plants about twice a week, and always remember that decayed leaves or litter of any description do not beautify healthy plants, neither do they form a part of a well kept Hot-house.
[Green-House.]
DECEMBER.
The weather may probably be now severe, and it is at all times advisable to keep the temperature as steady and regular as possible. The thermometer should be kept in the centre of the house, and free from the effects of reflection. As noticed last month, sun heat may be as high as 50° in the house, and would not be hurtful, but it should not continue so for any considerable time without admission of air. The fire heat should not exceed 43°, and never be below 33°. It ought not to continue at that point—36° is the lowest for a continuation that with safety can be practised. So that no error may occur, the temperature ought to be known in the coolest and warmest part of the house, and the variation remembered. Then whatever part of the house the thermometer is placed, a true calculation of the heat of the whole interior can be made. We would recommend to the inexperienced to keep the thermometer in the coldest part of the house. A Green-house compactly and closely built, and the glass all covered with shutters, (which no house ought to be constructed without,) will seldom require artificial heat; but by being long kept close, the damp will increase. In such case give a little fire heat, and admit air to purify the house. In fresh mild weather, give liberal portions of air all over the house; and though there is a little frost, while mild, and the sun shining, the plants will be benefited by a small portion of air for the space of an hour, or even for half of that time.
Whatever state the weather may be through the winter, never keep the house long shut up. Thirty-six hours, or at most sixty, should be the longest time at once; rather give a little fire heat.
We are no advocates for keeping plants long in darkness, and never think that our plants are receiving justice, if kept longer in darkness than two nights and one day.
Respecting watering and other necessary operations, see next month particularly.
BULBOUS ROOTS.
Those that were plunged in the garden, if not lifted and brought under cover, should now be done without delay. Clean the pots, and stir up the surface of the soil. Hyacinths grow neatest by being kept very close to the top glass; the flower stems are thereby stronger and shorter. Water moderately until they begin to grow freely.
[Flower Garden.]
DECEMBER.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.
Having in the preceding month, under this head, given details for the protection of plants of a delicate nature, and the forwarding of necessary work, only a few remarks remain to be added. If there is any part therein described omitted, have it done forthwith; every day increases the danger of the effects of frost. If there is a doubt of any plants not standing without protection which are generally considered perfectly hardy, such as Champney, Grevillii, Noisette, and similar roses, tie straw or mats three or four feet up the stems of such, which will prevent all risk.[J] For valuable plants that are on walls, and in danger of being entirely destroyed, it is advisable to be at the expense of having a frame made to answer them, and cover the same with oil-cloth. The frame thus covered could be taken off in mild weather, and replaced again when necessary, causing very little trouble; and if properly taken care of, would last many years. Coverings of any construction and of the same material would answer for any part of the garden, and are the best in our opinion that could be adopted.
[J] In the winter of 1831-1832, some of these roses were cut to the ground, where strong plants of Lagerstrœmia índica received not the smallest injury.
[Rooms.]
DECEMBER.
As the trying season is now approaching for all plants that are kept in rooms, especially those that are desired to have a flourishing aspect through the winter, a few general instructions (although they may have been previously advanced) will perhaps be desirable to all those who are engaged in this interesting occupation, which forms a luxury through the retired hours of a winter season, and with very little attention many are the beauties of vegetative nature that will be developed to the gratification of every reflecting mind. The following is a routine of every day culture.
Do not at any time admit air (except for a few moments) while the thermometer is below 32° exposed in the shade.
In time of very severe frosts the plants ought to be withdrawn from the window to the centre of the room during night.
Never give water until the soil in the pots is inclining to become dry, except for Hyacinths and other Dutch bulbs that are in a growing state, which must be liberally supplied.
Destroy all insects as soon as they appear; for means of destruction see next month.
Give a little air every favourable opportunity, (that is, when the thermometer is above 33° exposed in the shade,) by putting up the window one, two or three inches, according to the state of the weather.
Clean the foliage with sponge and water frequently to remove all dust, &c. The water thus used must not exceed 96° or blood-heat, but 60° is preferable.
Turn the plants frequently to prevent them growing to one side.
Roses of the daily sort may be obtained early by having them in a warm room, that has a south window, and as soon as they begin to grow, admit air in small portions about noon every day that the sun has any effect. Such must be well supplied with water.
Caméllias, when in bud and flower, should never be allowed to become the least dry, neither confined from fresh air. The effects would be that the buds would become stinted, dry, and drop off. Therefore, to have these in perfection, attend strictly to watering. Give frequent airings, and wash the leaves once in two weeks with water. Never keep them above one day in a room, where there is a strong coal fire, and not above two days where wood is used as fuel. The most of Caméllias will bear 3° of frost without the smallest injury, so that they are easier kept than Geraniums, except when they are in bloom. In that state frost will destroy the flowers. The air of a close cellar is destruction to the buds.
Bulbs in glasses must be supplied with fresh water once a week, in which period they will inhale all the nutritive gas that they derive from that element, if they are in a growing state.
ON THE CONSTRUCTION OF A HOT-HOUSE.
There have been many plans devised and visionary projects offered to the public as the best for a well regulated Hot-house. As we intend forming one for practical purposes, we shall adopt a convenient size, have flues for the conveyance of heat, and coal or wood for fuel.
Site and Aspect.—The house should stand on a situation naturally dry, and if possible sheltered from the north west, and clear from all shade on the south, east and west, so that the sun may at all times act effectually upon the house. The standard principle as to aspect is to set the front directly to the south. Any deviation from that point should incline to east.
Dimensions.—The length may be from ten feet upwards; but if beyond thirty feet, the number of fires and flues are multiplied. The medium width is from twelve to sixteen feet. Our directions will apply to the two extreme points, viz. thirty feet by sixteen, and in height at back from twelve to eighteen feet; the height in front six feet, including about three feet in brick basement to support the front glass, which will be two and a half feet, allowing six inches for frame work.
Furnace and Flues.—It is of great importance to have these erected in such a manner as will effectually heat the house. The greatest difficulty is to have the furnace to draw well. As workmen are not generally conversant on the subject, nor yet understand the effect or distribution of heat in these departments, we will give minute details on their construction. The furnace should be outside of the house, either at back or end; the former is preferable, circumstances not always allowing it on the other plan. Dig out the furnace hole, or what is termed stock hole, about five feet deep. Let the door of the furnace be in the back wall of the house, thereby having all the heated building inside, that no heat may be lost. The brick work round the furnace should be from fifteen to eighteen inches thick, laying the inside with fire-brick. The furnace will require to be two and a half feet long, ten inches wide, and one foot high, before the spring of the arch and clear of the bars; leave one foot for an ash pit, then lay the bars. They should be sixteen inches long, one inch broad on the upper side, two inches deep, and two eighths broad on the lower side, and with the door and frame should be cast iron. Half an inch between each bar will be sufficient. The flue should rise from the furnace by a steep declivity of about two feet, and pass the door of the house (without a dip), when it must be elevated above the level of the floor of the house along the front, and at the opposite end of the house must dip to pass the door. The dip must not be lower than the top of the furnace, and should be of a concave form, (avoiding acute angles.) Lead it along the back to enter the wall over the furnace. When thus taken round the house, the heat will be expanded before it passes off, The inside of the flues should be about six inches wide and eight inches deep; plaster the bottom of it, but no other part, as plaster is partially a non-conductor. The above description is for burning anthracite coal, but where wood is to be the fuel, the furnace and flues must be one half larger. We have been particular in the description of furnace bars, as those generally used are miserable substitutes. Circumstances may cause the furnace to be placed at the end or front of the house. In either case the stock hole will not require to be so deep; or where there is only one door in the house a stock hole three and a half feet deep will be enough, which should be built like a cellar to keep out any under water. In all instances pass the first flue to the front of the house, over which have a close shelf eight inches clear, covered with two inches of sand, and by keeping it moist will afford a very congenial heat to young valuable plants. Likewise over the furnace have a frame in the same manner, which will be found valuable. Any part of the furnace or flue that is under the floor of the house, should have a vacuity on both sides to let the heat pass upward.
Bark Pit.—We consider such an erection in the centre of a Hot-house a nuisance, and prefer a stage, which may be constructed according to taste. It should be made of the best Carolina pine, leaving a passage round the whole to cause a free circulation of air. The back and end paths should be about two feet wide, and the front three feet. The angle of the stage should be parallel with the glass, having the steps from six inches to one foot apart.
Where there are some large plants, they may stand on the floor behind the stage, or on tressels, according to their height.
Angle of the glazed roof.—The pitch of the roof is usually varied to agree with the design of the house, and the size of the plants to be grown therein. Where pleasure and ornament are the principal objects, the angle should be about 43°, but a few degrees of inclination either way is of minor importance, the height and elevation being regulated by the size of the plants intended to be cultivated. It is not advisable to shingle any part of the roof on the south aspect.
Materials for glazed frames.—Carolina pine is the best material for the wood work, as it is not so subject to decay from moisture and heat as the other kinds of pine wood. The frames or sashes can be of any convenient length, not exceeding ten feet, and about three and a half or four feet wide, divided so as they can be glazed with glass six inches wide.
Of glazing. The pieces of glass should not exceed six inches by ten, the lappings about one quarter of an inch. The frames ought to have one coat of paint previous to glazing, and all under the glass puttied. Some prefer the lappings to be puttied also. It is our opinion that in a Hot-house these should not be puttied, but in the Green-house the closer they can be made the better.
Of Shutters.—These should be made of half inch white pine, and bound on both ends and sides, having a cross piece in the middle of the same. They ought to be painted once in three years.
ON THE CONSTRUCTION OF A GREEN-HOUSE.
In many respects, the construction of the Green*-house will be the same as the Hot-house, but might be made much more an ornamental object, and could be erected contiguous to the mansion-house, with large folding doors to open at pleasure, and be connected with the drawing-room or parlour. The extent may vary according to the collection to be cultivated.
It was formerly the practice to build these houses with glass only in front, and even to introduce between the windows strong piers of brick or stone: but this is now abolished, and has given way to a light and ornamental style, by which cheerfulness and the desired utility are better consulted. There should be conveniences in the back part of the house, that a free current of air may be obtained whenever desired, which is an essential point. Two or three dark windows will answer the purpose well, if made to open and shut at pleasure.
ON LAYING OUT A FLOWER-GARDEN.
Soil, situation, and ground—Plan.—A soil of common good qualities, moderately light and mellow, will grow most of the hardy herbaceous flowers, and the evergreen and deciduous ornamental shrubs. The situation should not be so low as to be damp and wet, or liable to be inundated, neither so high as to be scorched or dried up by the sun. The surface should be level or moderately sloping, and if unequal, parts of it may be transposed, so as to make gentle inclinations. In regard to form, it may be of any shape, and must be often adapted to local circumstances; but if it is so circumscribed that the eye can at once embrace the whole, it is desirable that it should be of some regular figure.
Of Fences.—Where domestic buildings do not serve as a boundary, either paling or hedge-fence has to be resorted to: we would prefer the former on the north or north-west side, which is of great advantage as a screen from cutting winds. For hedge-fences and their kinds, see [page 210]. The exotic observed there is Thùja orientàlis, Chinese Arbor-vitæ. The internal fences for shade or shelter to particular compartments, or to afford a diversity of aspect, may be made of Sweetbriar, hardy China roses, Pyrus, red and white, with a few others of a similar nature, all of which must be attended to, to have them in neat order.
Style of dividing the Ground.—This may vary with the extent of the ground, and the object of the cultivator.
The principal designs may be delineated, but one to answer every view and situation, we pretend not to give. In the first place, carry a boundary walk all round the garden, on one or two sides of which it may be straight, the others winding. The intersecting walks should (almost imperceptibly) lead to a centre, but not to cross at right angles, or to have parallel lines, as if divided or laid down by a mathematical scale, which is too formal for the diversification of nature. All walks through these pleasure departments should be winding and enlivening, not continuing any length in one direction.[K] The continuous view of a straight walk is dull and monotonous. The divisions should be highest about the centre, that whatever is planted therein may have effect; and to make a Flower-garden fully interesting, and render it a source of natural information, where free scope might at all times be afforded to employ the leisure hours in mental improvement, there should be a good system of arrangement adopted.
[K] Since writing the above we have seen the Flower-garden of J. B. Smith, Esq. and consider it a beautiful specimen, finely illustrating the taste of that gentleman.
The Linnean system is the most easily acquired. A small compartment laid out in beds might contain plants of all the twenty-four classes, and a few of all the hardy orders, which do not exceed one hundred. Or to have their natural characters more assimilated, the Jussieuean system could be carried into effect by laying down a grass plat, to any extent above one quarter of an acre, and cut therein small figures to contain the natural families, which of hardy plants we do not suppose would exceed one hundred and fifty. The difficulties of this arrangement are, that many of the characters are imperfectly known even to the most scientific. Mr. John Lindley has given additional light on the subject by his last publication. All the large divisions should be intersected by small allies, or paths, about one and a half or two feet wide. These may be at right angles, or parallel, for convenience and order, in making beds, &c. for the various Dutch roots and other flowers. Patches or plats of grass studded with shrubs, deciduous and evergreen, are indispensable, and perhaps one or two grass walks.
Of Walks.—These should have five or six inches of lime and brick rubbish, or broken stone in the bottom, covered with small pebbles, and firmly rolled with a heavy roller, over which lay two or three inches of fine gravel, giving the whole a complete rolling. Walks made on this method will stand well, and be always dry and firm. With regard to breadth, they must be made according to the extent of ground, and vary from three to thirty feet; from four to eight feet is generally adopted.
[Plants described or mentioned in this Work.]
[INDEX.]
Airing the green-house, 20. 38. 172.
hot-house, 33.
Annuals, of sowing tender, 53.
Awning for hyacinths, 202.
for carnations, 277.
for plants, 256.
Box edgings, directions for planting, 139.
Bulbs, of protecting, 25.
preserving of Cape, 175.
method of planting Dutch 318.
care of tender 328.
Bulbous roots, of uncovering, 152.
protecting, 152.
Cistern, of a, 12. 273.
Cold, in the green-house, effects of, 21.
Cleanliness, good and bad effects of, 38.
Clipping shrubs, observations on, 44.
Carnation, qualities of a fine, 275.
and pink layers, care of, 307.
Camellias, period of selecting, 316.
Coverings, oil-cloth, 342.
Damp, in the green-house, effects of, 20. 22.
Dahlias, forwarding in a hot-bed, 181.
Daisies, primroses, &c. method of protecting, 321.
Engine for the green-house, best kind of, 19.
Enarching, method of, 127.
Edgings, fancy, 162.
method of dressing box, 211.
Fires, how to regulate the, 21. 33.
Fumigating, method of, 13.
Frames, of protecting, 26.
Glass, effects of broken, 43.
of double, 338.
Grass-seeds, most approved, 161.
walks, of laying down, ib.
Grafting, whip or tongue, 163.
Green-house, temperature of the, 340.
how to regulate the, ib.
Geraniums, how to prune or dress, 286.
Hedges, how to keep evergreen, 211.
Herbaceous plants, how to treat, 325.
criterion for planting, 151.
Hotbeds, of making, 52. 178.
Hyacinth, properties of a good, 202.
Hyacinths, of plunging new potted, 305.
Insects, their destruction, 12. 30. 35. 56.
effects of light on, 17.
Inoculation, method of, 47.
Liquid for orange and lemon trees, 39.
to destroy the cocus insect, 15.
Lime trees, situation in the green-house of, 312.
Leaves, bad effects of, 332.
Mildew on Camellias, &c., how to destroy, 22, 23. 173.
Manure, fermentation of, 52.
Orange and Lemon trees, when to transplant, 287.
how to prune, 289.
Plants, criterion for repotting, 126.
of training climbing green-house, 176.
in summer the best situation for, 256.
Pots, method of draining flower, 126.
Pruning, good or bad effects of, 27.
various shrubs, manner of, 45.
China roses, manner of, 189.
climbing ever-blooming roses, method of, 191.
roses, 195.
Planting, bad effects in, 334,
state of the soil when, 48.
Pink, qualities of a fine, 276.
Perennials, description of fine, 133.
Parlours, treatment of plants in, 28. 54. 343.
Repotting plants, 17. 35. 41. 57. 61. 169.
Roses, how to retard the blooming of, 155.
finest sorts of, 156.
varieties of, ib.
of fancy planting, 157.
of mulching, 158.
in June, reasons for pruning, 279.
nature of the soil for, 323.
early, how to have, 344.
Shutters, benefit of, 10.
how to make, 337.
Slugs, detect, 25.
how to destroy, 267.
Stocks, of procuring seed from flowering, 176.
Shrubs, of uncovering 129.
pleasure and effect of, 48.
Shrubs, manner of planting, 50.
of supporting, 51.
of packing, 51.
Snow on the houses, bad effects of, 34.
Syringes, best kind of, 19.
Syringing, good effects of, 14. 19. 37. 39. 171.
Tieing up plants, method of, 19.
Tubs for trees, perforated, 59.
best kind of, 288.
Trees, of heading down, 59.
of watering and arranging large, 259.
Tanners' bark, nature of, 332.
Tan-bed, plunge the plants in the, 339.
Tobacco for destroying insects, decoction of, 60.
Turf, of laying, 160.
Trellises, of, 196.
Tulip, properties of a fine, 203.
Watering, good or bad effects of, 11. 21. 29. 34. 56. 58.
Water on hot-house plants, effects of cold, 12.
Watering-pot, best kind of, 11.
Wounds on trees, composition for covering, 172.
White-washing the glass with whiting, of, 173.
Walks with turf, of laying, 209.
Wall-flowers, how to propagate, 268.
" and stocks, time of lifting, 307.
[LIST OF HARDY SHRUBS.]
Those marked thus [*], require protection in winter, and those marked thus [+], shade in summer.
[LIST OF ANNUALS THAT MAY BE SOWN ON A HOT-BED.]
| Amaránthus, | Amaranth. |
| tricólor, | three-coloured. |
| hypochondrìacus, | Prince's-Feather. |
| caudàtus, | love-lies-bleeding. |
| globbòsus, | globe. |
| var. var. | |
| Balsamìna, | Ladies-slipper. |
| horténsis, | garden. |
| var. var. | |
| Browállia. | |
| elàta, | blue. |
| var. | white. |
| Cánna, | Indian-shot. |
| índica, | Indian. |
| Celòsia. | |
| cristàta, | cockscomb. |
| var. var.. | |
| Ipom`æa, | Cypress-vine. |
| var. var. | |
| Mimòsa. | |
| sensitìva, | sensitive-plant. |
| Stramònium. | |
| purpúrea pleno | double-blue. |
| alba | white. |
| Schizánthus. | |
| pinnàtus and porrígens. | |
| Áster. | |
| chinènsis, | Queen Margaret's. |
| var. var. | |
| Calendùla, | Mary-gold. |
| " | African, French. |
| " | dwarf and sweet-scented. |
| Xeránthemum of sorts. | |
| Stocks, 10 week varieties. | |
[HARDY ANNUALS.]
Alyssum, white or sweet.
Antírhìnum latifòlia.
medíum.
speciòsum.
versicolor.
Argeratum mexicanum.
odoratum.
Argemone, of sorts.
Aster, Chinese, of varieties.
Amaranthus, do. do.
Balsam, do. do.
Caccàlia Coccinea.
Centáurea Americàna.
Calceolaria of sorts.
Cláskia, pulchélla.
Celosia of sorts.
Calendùla Mary-Gold, of sorts.
Candytuft, of var.
Convólvulus, of var.
Coreopsis, of var.
Gypsophìla elegans.
Hollyhock, Chinese, of var.
Hawkweed, of var.
Ipomèa, do.
Larkspur, dwarf-rocket.
Larkspur, branching.
Neapolitan.
Love-Lies-Bleeding.
Lupins, of sorts.
Marvel of Peru.
Mignonette, sweet.
Marygold, of sorts.
Nasturtium, dwarf.
Nigella, of var.
Œnothera, do. do.
Pink Indian.
Peas, sweet, of sorts.
Persicària, red and white.
Poppy, double var.
Princess Feather.
Snap-Dragon.
Stock, Prussian, in var.
Sun-Flower, of var.
Sultan, sweet.
Silene, of sorts.
Venus' Looking-Glass.
Navel-Wort.
Xeranthehum, of var.
Zinnia, elegans.
of sorts.
[We have not been minute in the list of annuals, as they are generally known, and a judicious selection adapted to this country may be found in the catalogue of D. & C. Landreth, Philadelphia, or that of Smith & Hogg, New York.]
[HARDY BIENNIALS.]
| Campanula spicàta. | |
| " medium Canterbury-bells. | |
| " " álbida, white. | |
| Delphínium píctum. | |
| Diaitàlis, | Fox Glove. |
| " purpùrea. | |
| " álba. | |
| Honesty, or Lunaria. | |
| Honeysuckle, French. | |
| Horned Poppy. | |
| Húmea, élegans. | |
| Málva Arbòrea. | |
| Mimulus, of var. | |
| Œnothèra, | Evening Primrose. |
| elata, | tall. |
| suavèolens, | sweet-scented. |
| spectábilis, | showy. |
| biénnis, | common. |
| var. var. | |
| longiflòra. | long-flower. |
| corymbòsa, | corymbose. |
| Silène, | Catch-fly. |
| " multiflòra, | many-flowered. |
| " viscòsa, | clammy. |
| " divaricàta, | avaricate. |
| Wall-Flower, | bloody. |
| " | white. |
| " | yellow. |
[TABLE OF SOILS.]
The following compound of soils are adapted to the nature of the Plants contained in this Work.
The figures attached to the first species of each Genus refer to the Table of Soils, where the compost is in parts; and where any figures occur in the same Genus, the species following are of the same nature.
| Number. | Savanna. | Loam. | Leaf. | Sand. | Manure. | ||||
| 1 | 2 | - | 1 | - | - | - | - | - | - |
| 2 | - | - | 3 | - | 2 | - | - | - | - |
| 3 | - | - | 4 | - | - | - | 1 | - | 1 |
| 4 | - | - | 2 | - | 1 | - | - | - | - |
| 5 | all | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - |
| 6 | 3 | - | 1 | - | - | - | - | - | - |
| 7 | - | - | 3 | - | 1 | - | 1 | - | - |
| 8 | 4 | - | 1 | - | - | - | - | - | - |
| 9 | - | - | 2 | - | 2 | - | 1 | - | - |
| 10 | 1 | - | 1 | - | 1 | - | - | - | - |
| 11 | - | - | 3 | - | 2 | - | 1 | - | - |
| 12 | - | - | 3 | - | 1 | - | 1 | - | 1 |
| 13 | 2 | - | 2 | - | 1 | - | - | - | 1 |
| 14 | - | - | 4 | - | - | - | 1 | - | - |
| 15 | - | - | 4 | - | 2 | - | 1 | - | - |
| 16 | 4 | - | - | - | 1 | - | - | - | - |
| 17 | - | - | 5 | - | 1 | - | 1 | - | 1 |
| 18 | - | - | 1 | - | 1 | - | 1 | - | - |
| 19 | 1 | - | 1 | - | - | - | - | - | - |
REMARKS ON THE NATURE OF SOILS USED IN THE ABOVE TABLE.
Savanna soil—is of a dark colour, with a large portion of white sand incorporated with it, and is found frequently in New Jersey. A mixture of two-thirds black earth from the woods, and one-third of pure white sand, will be similar to it, and may be used as a substitute, but is not exactly of the same nature.
Loam—is of a light brown colour, and is that from old pastures or commons, which should lie one year, and be frequently turned before using. It ought not to be from a clay bottom.
Leaf mould—is that which is to be found on the surface of the ground in woods, and is the decomposed leaves. It may be termed nearly of first rate importance in vegetation.
Sand—is a substance that is generally known, and that which is found on the surface is decidedly the best. If it is from a pit, it must be spread out, and frequently turned, that it may assimilate with the atmosphere before using;—four months will be sufficient.
Manure—before using, must be decomposed to very fine particles. It will require two years, during which time it must be often turned, and the longer it lays it will be the finer and more congenial.
[HIBBERT AND BUIST,]
EXOTIC NURSERYMEN AND FLORISTS,
Respectfully inform their friends and the public generally, that in addition to the Garden in Thirteenth-street, they have purchased the Nursery Grounds, Green-Houses, &c., established by the late B. M'Mahon, Esq., on the township line, near the Germantown road, about three miles from the city, where the propagation and cultivation of Ornamental Trees, Shrubs, Plants, and Flowers, will hereafter be extensively carried on, and improved in accordance to the increasing demand.
The Thirteenth-street Garden will be appropriated as a repository for the sale of plants and the receiving of orders.
A splendid collection of Camellia Japonica, containing the most approved and distinct varieties; also a very large selection of the most esteemed and beautiful Roses. Their Dahlias were selected by R. Buist, last year, from the finest collection in England, together with many Ornamental and other Plants not surpassed for extent in the Union.
Orders at either of the establishments, or per post, will be duly received and punctually attended to.
Transcriber's notes:
All original typographical errors and inconsistencies other than the ones listed below are preserved in this version.
Various spellings of Alstrœmèria have been made consistent.
Page vi: replaced "apppreciation' with "appreciation"
Page ix: replaced " and transplanting, 302" with " and transplanting, 320"
Page 16-17: removed "The ance."
Page 56: replaced "frequentl ycauses" with "frequently causes"
Page 63: Italicized "A. fœtida" for consistency.
Page 96: replaced comma with period in "much water,"
Page 109: replaced "sbrubs" with "shrubs"
Page 144: replaced "beatiful" with "beautiful"
Page 160: replaced "firt" with "first"
Page 163: replaced "it it" with "it is"
Page 187: Replaced second "No. 27." to "No. 29." to fix sequence
Page 224: replaced "end of the month," with "end of the month."
Page 227: replaced "phyllnthoídes" with "phyllanthoídes"
Page 280: replaced "seeif" with "see if"
Page 282: Replaced "intances" with "instances"
Page 304: Replaced "observatign" with "observation"