THE NARRATIVE OF THE HON. JOHN BYRON.

THE AUTHOR'S PREFACE.

As the greatest pain I feel in committing the following sheets to the press, arises from an apprehension that many of my readers will accuse me of egotism, I will not incur that charge in my preface, by detaining them with the reasons which have induced me, at this time, to yield to the desire of my friends. It is equally indifferent to the public to be told how it happened, that nothing should have got the better of my indolence and reluctance to comply with the same requests, for the space of twenty years.

I will employ these few introductory pages merely to shew what pretensions this work may have to the notice of the world, after those publications which have preceded it.

It is well known that the Wager, one of Lord Anson's squadron, was cast away upon a desolate island in the South-seas. The subject of this book is a relation of the extraordinary difficulties and hardships through which, by the assistance of Divine Providence, a small part of her crew escaped to their native land; and a very small proportion of those made their way, in a new and unheard-of manner, over a large and desert tract of land, between the western mouth of Magellanic Streight and the capital of Chili; a country scarce to be paralleled in any part of the globe, in that it affords neither fruits, grain, nor even roots proper for the sustenance of man; and, what is still more rare, the very sea, which yields a plentiful support to many a barren coast, on this tempestuous and inhospitable shore is found to be almost as barren as the land; and it must be confessed, that to those who cannot interest themselves with seeing human nature labouring, from day to day, to preserve its existence under the continual want of such real necessaries, as food and shelter from the most rigorous climate, the following sheets will afford but little entertainment.

Yet, after all, it must be allowed there can be no other way of ascertaining the geography and natural history of a country, which is altogether morass and a rock, incapable of products or culture, than by setting down every minute circumstance which was observed in traversing it. The same may be said of the inhabitants, their manners, religion, and language. What fruits could an European reap from a more intimate acquaintance with them, than what he will find in the following accidental observations? We saw the most unprofitable spot on the globe of the earth, and such it is described and ascertained to be.

It is to be hoped, some little amends may be made by such an insight as is given into the interior part of the Country; and I find what I have put down has had the good fortune to be pleasing to some of my friends; insomuch, that the only fault I have yet had laid to my papers is, that of being too short in the article of the Spanish settlements. But here I must say, I have been dubious of the partiality of my friends; and, as I think, justly fearful lest the world in general, who may perhaps find compassion and indulgence for a protracted tale of distress, may not give the same allowance to a luxurious imagination triumphing in a change of fortune, and sudden transition from the most dismal to the gayest scenes in the universe, and thereby indulging an egotism equally offensive to the envious and censorious.

I speak as briefly as possible of matters previous to our final separation from the rest of Lord Anson's squadron; for it is from this epocha that the train of our misfortunes properly commences: and though Mr Bulkeley, one of the warrant officers of the Wager, has, long since, published a Journal and Account of the return of that part of the ship's company, which, dissenting from Captain Cheap's propoposal of endeavouring to regain their native country by way of the great continent of South America, took their passage home in the long-boat, through the Streights of Magellan, our transactions during our abode on the island have been related by him in so concise a manner, as to leave many particulars unnoticed, and others touched so slightly, that they appear evidently to have been put together with the purpose of justifying those proceedings which could not be considered in any other light than that of direct mutiny. Accordingly, we find that the main substance of his Journal is employed in scrutinizing the conduct of Captain Cheap, and setting forth the conferences which passed between him and the seceders, relative to the way and measures they were to take for their return home. I have, therefore, taken some pains to review those early passages of the unfortunate scene I am to represent, and to enter into a detail, without which no sound judgment can be formed of any disputed point, especially when it has been carried so far as to end in personal resentment. When contests and dissensions shall be found to have gone that length, it will be obvious to every reader, why a licentious crew should hearken to any factious leader, rather than to the solidity of their captain's advice, who made it evident to every unprejudiced understanding, that their fairest chance for safety and a better fortune, was to proceed with the long-boat till they should make prize of some vessel of the enemy, and thereby be enabled to bring to the commodore a supply of stout fellows to assist in his conquests, and share in the honour and rewards.

And yet it is but justice, even to this ungovernable herd, to explain, that though, as I have said above, they appeared in the light of mutineers, they were not actually such in the eye of the law; for, till a subsequent act, made indeed on this occasion, the pay of a ship's crew ceased immediately upon her wreck, and consequently the officers' authority and command.

Having explained the foregoing particulars, I hope I may flatter myself, there are few things in the following sheets which will not be readily understood by the greatest part of my readers; therefore I will not detain them any longer.[115]

[115] Bulkeley's narrative above referred to, and which certainly deserves to be better known than it now is, will be found in this Appendix, No. 2. The impartial reader, it is believed, will hesitate to join with Byron in opinion as to the motives which occasioned its publication; nor is it unimportant for him to recollect, that Byron himself at one time sanctioned the chief measures and sentiments which Bulkeley and his associates adopted.--E.

[CHAPTER I.]

Account of the Wager and her Equipment.--Captain Kid's Death.--Succeeded by Captain Cheap.--Our Disasters commence with our Voyage.--We lose Sight of our Squadron in a Gale of Wind.--Dreadful Storm.--Ship strikes.

The equipment and destination of the squadron fitted out in the year 1740, of which Commodore Anson had the command, being sufficiently known from the ample and well-penned relation of it under his direction, I shall recite no particulars that are to be found in that work. But it may be necessary, for the better understanding the disastrous fate of the Wager, the subject of the following sheets, to repeat the remark, that a strange infatuation seemed to prevail in the whole conduct of this embarkation: For though it was unaccountably detained till the season for its sailing was past, no proper use was made of that time, which should have been employed in providing a suitable force of sailors and soldiery; nor was there a due attention given to other requisites for so peculiar and extensive a destination.

This neglect not only rendered the expedition abortive in its principal object, but most materially affected the condition of each particular ship, and none so fatally as the Wager, who being an old Indiaman, bought into the service upon this occasion, was now fitted out as a man of war: But being made to serve as a store-ship, was deeply laden with all kinds of careening geer, military, and other stores, for the use of the other ships; and what is more, crowded, with bale-goods, and incumbered with merchandize. A ship of this quality and condition could not be expected to work with that readiness and ease which was necessary for her security and preservation in those heavy seas which she was to encounter. Her crew consisted of men pressed from long voyages to be sent upon a distant and hazardous service; on the other hand, all her land-forces were no more than a poor detachment of infirm and decrepid invalids from Chelsea hospital, desponding under the apprehensions of a long voyage. It is not then to be wondered, that Captain Kid, under whose command this ship sailed out of the port, should in his last moments presage her ill success, though nothing very material happened during his command.

At his death he was succeeded by Captain Cheap, who still, without any accident, kept company with the squadron till we had almost gained the southernmost mouth of Straits Le Maire; when, being the sternmost ship, we were, by the sudden shifting of the wind to the southward, and the turn of the tide, very near being wrecked upon the rocks of Staten Land; which, notwithstanding, having weathered, contrary to the expectation of the rest of the squadron, we endeavoured all in our power to make up our lost way, and regain our station. This we effected, and proceeded in our voyage, keeping company with the rest of the ships for some time, when by a great roll of a hollow sea we carried away our mizen-mast, all the chain-plates to windward being broken. Soon after, hard gales at west coming on with a prodigious swell, there broke a heavy sea in upon the ship, which stove our boats, and filled us for some time.

These accidents were the more disheartening, as our carpenter was on board the Gloucester, and detained there by the incessant tempestuous weather, and a sea impracticable for boats. In a few days he returned, and supplied the loss of a mizen-mast by a lower studding-sail boom; but this expedient, together with the patching up of our rigging, was a poor temporary relief to us. We were soon obliged to cut away our best bower-anchor to ease the fore-mast, the shrouds and chain-plates of which were all broken, and the ship in all parts in a most crazy condition.

Thus shattered and disabled, a single ship, (for we had now lost sight of our squadron) we had the additional mortification to find ourselves bearing for the land on our lee-shore, having thus far persevered in the course we held, from an error in conjecture: For the weather was unfavourable for observation, and there are no charts of that part of the coast. When those officers who first perceived their mistake endeavoured to persuade the captain to alter his course, and bear away, for the greater surety, to the westward, he persisted in making directly, as he thought, for the island of Socoro; and to such as dared from time to time to deliver their doubts of being entangled with the land stretching to the westward, he replied, That he thought himself in no case at liberty to deviate from his orders, and that the absence of his ship from the first place of rendezvous would entirely frustrate the whole squadron in the first object of their attack, and possibly decide upon the fortune of the whole expedition. For the better understanding the force of his reasoning, it is necessary to explain, that the island of Socoro is in the neighbourhood of Baldivia, the capture of which place could not be effected without the junction of that ship, which carried the ordnance and military stores.

The knowledge of the great importance of giving so early and unexpected a blow to the Spaniards, determined the captain to make the shortest way to the point in view; and that rigid adherence to orders, from which he thought himself in no case at liberty to depart, begot in him a stubborn defiance of all difficulties, and took away from him those apprehensions which so justly alarmed all such as, from ignorance of the orders, had nothing present to their minds but the dangers of a lee-shore.[116]

[116] Captain Cheap has been suspected of a design of going on the Spanish coast without the commodore; but no part of his conduct seems to authorize, in the least, such a suspicion. The author who brings this heavy charge against him, is equally mistaken in imagining that Captain Cheap had not instructions to sail to this island, and that the commodore did neither go nor send thither to inform himself if any of the squadron were there. This appears from the orders delivered to the captains of the squadron the day before they sailed from St Catherine's (L. Anson's Voyage, vol. xi, p. 267,); from the orders of the council on board the Centurion in the bay of St Julian, (p. 276,) and from the conduct of the commodore, (p. 305,) who cruized (with the utmost hazard) more than a fortnight off the island of Socoro, and along the coast in its neighbourhood. It was the second rendezvous at Baldivia, and not that at Socoro, that the commodore was forced by necessity to neglect.

We had for some time been sensible of our approach to the land, from no other token than those of weeds and birds, which are the usual indications of nearing the coast; but at length we had an imperfect view of an eminence, which we conjectured to be one of the mountains of the Cordilleras. This, however, was not so distinctly seen, but that many conceived it to be the effect of imagination; but if the captain was persuaded of the nearness of our danger, it was now too late to remedy it; for at this time the straps of the fore jeer blocks breaking, the fore-yard came down, and the greatest part of the men being disabled through fatigue and sickness, it was some time before it could be got up again. The few hands who were employed in this business now plainly saw the land on the larboard beam, bearing N, W., upon which the ship was driving bodily. Orders were then given immediately by the captain to sway the fore-yard up, and set the foresail; which done, we wore ship with her head to the southward, and endeavoured to crowd her off from the land; but the weather, from being exceedingly tempestuous, blowing now a perfect hurricane, and right in upon the shore, rendered our endeavours (for we were now only twelve hands fit for duty) entirely fruitless. The night came on, dreadful beyond description, in which, attempting to throw out our topsails to claw off the shore, they were immediately blown from the yards.

In the morning, about four o'clock, the ship struck. The shock we received upon this occasion, though very great, being not unlike a blow of a heavy sea, such as in the series of preceding storms we had often experienced, was taken for the same; but we were soon undeceived by her striking more violently than before, which laid her upon her beam-ends, the sea making a fair breach over her. Every person that now could stir was presently upon the quarter-deck; and many even of those were alert upon this occasion that had not shewed their faces upon deck for above two months before: Several poor wretches, who were in the last stage of the scurvy, and who could not get out of their hammocks, were immediately drowned.

In this dreadful situation she lay for some little time, every soul on board looking upon the present minute as his last, for there was nothing to be seen but breakers all around us. However, a mountainous sea hove her off from thence; but she presently struck again, and broke her tiller. In this terrifying and critical juncture, to have observed all the various modes of horror operating according to the several characters and complexions amongst us, it was necessary that the observer himself should have been free from all impressions of danger. Instances there were, however, of behaviour so very remarkable, they could not escape the notice of any one who was not entirely bereaved of his senses; for some were in this condition to all intents and purposes; particularly one, in the ravings despair brought upon him, was seen stalking about the deck flourishing a cutlass over his head, and calling himself king of the country, and striking every body he came near, till his companions, seeing no other security against his tyranny, knocked him down. Some, reduced before by long sickness and the scurvy, became on this occasion, as it were, petrified and bereaved of all sense, like inanimate logs, and were bandied to and fro by the jerks and rolls of the ship, without exerting any efforts to help themselves. So terrible was the scene of foaming breakers around us, that one of the bravest men we had could not help expressing his dismay at it, saying, it was too shocking a sight to bear; and would have thrown himself over the rails of the quarterdeck into the sea had he not been prevented; but at the same time there were not wanting those who preserved a presence of mind truly heroic. The man at the helm, though both rudder and tiller were gone, kept his station; and being asked by one of the officers if the ship would steer or not, first took his time to make trial by the wheel, and then answered with as much respect and coolness as if the ship had been in the greatest safety, and immediately after applied himself with his usual serenity to his duty, persuaded it did not become him to desert it as long as the ship kept together. Mr Jones, mate, who now survives not only this wreck, but that of the Litchfield man of war upon the coast of Barbary, at the time when the ship was in the most imminent danger, not only shewed himself undaunted, but endeavoured to inspire the same resolution in the men, saying, "My friends, let us not be discouraged, did you never see a ship amongst breakers before? Let us endeavour to pass her through them. Come, lend a hand: here is a sheet, and here is a brace, lay hold: I don't doubt but we may stick her yet near enough to the land to save our lives." This had so good an effect, that many who before were half dead, seemed active again, and now went to work in earnest. This Mr Jones did purely to keep up the spirits of the people as long as possible; for he often said afterwards, he thought there was not the least chance of a single man's being saved. We now run in between an opening of the breakers, steering by the sheets and braces, when providentially we stuck fast between two great rocks; that to windward sheltered us in some measure from the violence of the sea. We immediately cut away the main and fore-mast, but the ship kept beating in such a manner, that we imagined she could not hold together but a very little while. The day now broke, and the weather, that had been extremely thick, cleared away for a few moments, and gave us a glimpse of the land not far from us. We now thought of nothing but saving our lives. To get the boats out, as our masts were gone, was a work of some time, which when accomplished, many were ready to jump into the first, by which means they narrowly escaped perishing before they reached the shore. I now went to Captain Cheap, (who had the misfortune to dislocate his shoulder by a fall the day before, as he was going forward to get the fore- yard swayed up) and asked him if he would not go on shore; but he told me, as he had done before, that he would be the last to leave the ship; and he ordered me to assist in getting the men out as soon as possible. I had been with him very often from the time the ship first struck, as he desired I would, to acquaint him with every thing that passed; and I particularly remarked, that he gave his orders at that time with as much coolness as ever he had done during the former part of the voyage.

The scene was now greatly changed, for many who but a few minutes before had shewn the strongest signs of despair, and were on their knees praying for mercy, imagining they were now not in that immediate danger, grew very riotous, broke open every chest and box that was at hand, stove in the heads of casks of brandy and wine as they were borne up to the hatch-way, and got so drunk, that some of them were drowned on board, and lay floating about the decks for some days after. Before I left the ship, I went down to my chest, which was at the bulk-head of the ward-room, in order to save some little matters if possible; but whilst I was there the ship thumped with such violence, and the water came in so fast, that I was forced to get upon the quarter-deck again without saving a single rag but what was upon my back. The boatswain and some of the people would not leave the ship so long as there was any liquor to be got at; upon which Captain Cheap suffered himself to be helped out of his bed, put into the boat, and carried on shore.

[CHAPTER II.]

We land on a wild Shore.--No Appearance of Inhabitants.--One of our Lieutenants dies.--Conduct of a Part of the Crew who remained on the Wreck.--We name the Place of our Residence Mount Misery.--Narrative of Transactions there.--Indians appear in Canoes off the Coast.--Description of them.--Discontents amongst our People.

It is natural to think, that to men thus upon the point of perishing by shipwreck, the getting to land was the highest attainment of their wishes; undoubtedly it was a desirable event; yet, all things considered, our condition was but little mended by the change. Which ever way we looked, a scene of horror presented itself; on one side the wreck, (in which was all that we had in the world, to support and subsist us) together with a boisterous sea, presented us with the most dreary prospect; on the other, the land did not wear a much more favourable appearance: desolate and barren, without sign of culture, we could hope to receive little other benefit from it than the preservation it afforded us from the sea. It must be confessed this was a great and merciful deliverance from immediate destruction; but then we had wet, cold, and hunger to struggle with, and no visible remedy against any of those evils. Exerting ourselves, however, though faint, benumbed, and almost helpless, to find some wretched covert against the extreme inclemency of the weather, we discovered an Indian hut at a small distance from the beach, within a wood, in which as many as possible, without distinction, crowded themselves, the night coming on exceedingly tempestuous and rainy. But here our situation was such as to exclude all rest and refreshment by sleep from most of us, for, besides that we pressed upon one another extremely, we were not without our alarms and apprehensions of being attacked by the Indians, from a discovery we made of some of their lances and other arms in our hut; and our uncertainty of their strength and disposition gave alarm to our imagination, and kept us in continual anxiety.

In this miserable hovel, one of our company, a lieutenant of invalids, died this night; and of those who for want of room took shelter under a great tree, which stood them in very little stead, two more perished by the severity of that cold and rainy night. In the morning, the calls of hunger, which had been hitherto suppressed by our attention to more immediate dangers and difficulties, were now become too importunate to be resisted. We had most of us fasted eight-and-forty hours, some more; it was time therefore to make enquiry among ourselves what store of sustenance had been brought from the wreck by dire providence of some, and what could be procured on the island by the industry of others; but the produce of the one amounted to no more than two or three pounds of biscuit-dust preserved in a bag; and all the success of those who ventured abroad, the weather being still exceedingly bad, was to kill one sea-gull and pick some wild sellery. These, therefore, were immediately put into a pot, with the addition of a large quantity of water, and made into a kind of soup, of which each partook as far as it would go; but we had no sooner thrown this down than we were seized with the most painful sickness at our stomachs, violent reachings, swoonings, and other symptoms of being poisoned. This was imputed to various causes, but in general to the herbs we made use of, in the nature and quality of which we fancied ourselves mistaken; but a little farther enquiry let us into the real occasion of it, which was no other than this: the biscuit-dust was the sweepings of the bread-room, but the bag in which they were put had been a tobacco-bag, the contents of which not being entirely taken out, what remained mixed with the biscuit- dust, and proved a strong emetic.

We were in all about a hundred and forty who had got to shore, but some few remained still on board, detained either by drunkenness or a view of pillaging the wreck, among whom was the boatswain. These were visited by an officer in the yawl, who was to endeavour to prevail upon them to join the rest; but finding them in the greatest disorder and disposed to mutiny, he was obliged to desist from his purpose and return without them. Though we were very desirous, and our necessities required that we should take some survey of the land we were upon, yet being strongly prepossessed that the savages were retired but some little distance from us, and waited to see us divided, our parties did not make this day any great excursions from the hut; but as far as we went, we found it very morassy and unpromising. The spot which we occupied was a bay formed by hilly promontories; that to the north so exceeding steep, that in order to ascend it (for there was no going round, the bottom being washed by the sea) we were at the labour of cutting steps. This, which we call Mount Misery, was of use to us in taking some observations afterwards when the weather would permit: the southern promontory was not so inaccessible. Beyond this, I, with some others, having reached another bay, found driven ashore some parts of the wreck, but no kind of provision; nor did we meet with any shell-fish, which we were chiefly in search of. We therefore returned to the rest, and for that day made no other repast than what the wild sellery afforded us. The ensuing night proved exceedingly tempestuous; and, the sea running very high, threatened those on board with immediate destruction by the parting of the wreck. They then were as solicitous to get ashore as they were before obstinate in refusing the assistance we sent them; and when they found the boat did not come to their relief at the instant they expected it, without considering how impracticable a thing it was to send it them in such a sea, they fired one of the quarter-deck guns at the hut, the ball of which did but just pass over the covering of it, and was plainly heard by the captain and us who were within. Another attempt, therefore, was made to bring these madmen to land; which, however, by the violence of the sea and other impediments, occasioned by the mast that lay alongside, proved ineffectual. This unavoidable delay made the people on board outrageous; they fell to beating every thing to pieces that fell in the way; and, carrying their intemperance to the greatest excess, broke open chests and cabins for plunder that could be of no use to them; and so earnest were they in this wantonness of theft, that one man had evidently been murdered on account of some division of the spoil, or for the sake of the share that fell to him, having all the marks of a strangled corpse. One thing in this outrage they seemed particularly attentive to, which was, to provide themselves with arms and ammunition, in order to support them in putting their mutinous designs in execution, and asserting their claim to a lawless exemption from the authority of their officers, which they pretended must cease with the loss of the ship. But of these arms, which we stood in great need of, they were soon bereaved upon coming ashore, by the resolution of Captain Cheap and Lieutenant Hamilton of the marines. Among these mutineers who had been left on board, as I observed before, was the boatswain, who, instead of exerting the authority he had over the rest, to keep them within bounds as much as possible, was himself a ringleader in their riot; him, without respect to the figure he then made, for he was in laced clothes, Captain Cheap, by a blow well laid on with his cane, felled to the ground. It was scarce possible to refrain from laughter at the whimsical appearance these fellows made, who, having rifled the chests of the officers best suits, had put them on over their greasy trowsers and dirty checked shirts. They were soon stripped of their finery, as they had before been obliged to resign their arms.

The incessant rains and exceeding cold weather in this climate, rendered it impossible for us to subsist long without shelter; and the hut being much too little to receive us all, it was necessary to fall upon some expedient, without delay, which might serve our purpose: accordingly the gunner, carpenter, and some more, turning the cutter keel upwards, and fixing it upon props, made no despicable habitation. Having thus established some sort of settlement, we had the more leisure to look about us, and to make our researches with greater accuracy than we had before, after such supplies as the most desolate coasts are seldom unfurnished with. Accordingly we soon provided ourselves with some sea-fowl, and found limpets, mussels, and other shellfish in tolerable abundance; but this rummaging of the shore was now becoming extremely irksome to those who had any feeling, by the bodies of our drowned people thrown among the rocks, some of which were hideous spectacles, from the mangled condition they were in by the violent surf that drove in upon the coast. These horrors were overcome by the distresses of our people, who were even glad of the occasion of killing the gallinazo (the carrion crow of that country) while preying on these carcases, in order to make a meal of them. But a provision by no means proportionable to the number of mouths to be fed, could, by our utmost industry, be acquired from that part of the island we had hitherto traversed; therefore, till we were in a capacity of making more distant excursions, the wreck was to be applied to, as often as possible, for such supplies as could be got out of her. But as this was a very precarious fund in its present situation, and at best could not last us long; considering too that it was very uncertain how long we might be detained upon this island; the stores and provisions we were so fortunate as to retrieve, were not only to be dealt out with the most frugal economy, but a sufficient quantity, if possible, laid by, to fit us out, whenever we could agree upon any method of transporting ourselves from this dreary spot. The difficulties we had to encounter in these visits to the wreck, cannot be easily described; for no part of it being above water except the quarter- deck and part of the fore-castle, we were usually obliged to purchase such things as were within reach, by means of large hooks fastened to poles, in which business we were much incommoded by the dead bodies floating between decks.

In order to secure what we thus got in a manner to answer the ends and purposes above-mentioned, Captain Cheap ordered a store-tent to be erected near his hut, as a repository, from which nothing was to be dealt out but in the measure and proportion agreed upon by the officers; and though it was very hard upon us petty officers, who were fatigued with hunting all day in quest of food, to defend this tent from invasion by night, no other means could be devised for this purpose so effectual as the committing this charge to our care; and we were accordingly ordered to divide the task equally between us. Yet, notwithstanding our utmost vigilance and care, frequent robberies were committed upon our trust, the tent being accessible in more than one place. And one night when I had the watch, hearing a stir within, I came unawares upon the thief and presenting a pistol to his breast, obliged him to submit to be tied up to a post till I had an opportunity of securing him more effectually. Depredations continued to be made on our reserved stock, notwithstanding the great hazard attending such attempts; for our common safety made it necessary to punish them with the utmost rigour. This will not be wondered at, when it is known how little the allowance which might consistently be dispensed from thence was proportionable to our common exigencies, so that our daily and nightly task of roving after food was not in the least relaxed thereby; and all put together was so far from answering our necessities, that many at this time perished with hunger. A boy, when no other eatables could be found, having picked up the liver of one of the drowned men, (whose carcase had been torn to pieces by the force with which the sea drove it among the rocks) was with difficulty withheld from making a meal of it. The men were so assiduous in their research after the few things which drove from the wreck, that in order to have no sharers of their good fortune, they examined the shore no less by night than by day; so that many of them who were less alert, or not so fortunate as their neighbours, perished with hunger, or were driven to the last extremity. It must be observed, that on the 14th of May we were cast away, and it was not till the twenty-fifth of this month that provision was served regularly from the store-tent.

The land we were now settled upon was about 90 leagues to the northward of the western mouth of the Straits of Magellan, in the latitude of between 47 and 48° south, from whence we could plainly see the Cordilleras; and by two lagoons on the north and south of us, stretching towards those mountains, we conjectured it was an island. But as yet we had no means of informing ourselves perfectly whether it was an island or the main; for besides that the inland parts at little distance from us seemed impracticable, from the exceeding great thickness of the wood, we had hitherto been in such confusion and want, (each finding full employment for his time, in scraping together a wretched subsistence, and providing shelter against the cold and rain) that no party could be formed to go upon discoveries. The climate and season too were utterly unfavourable to adventurers; and the coast, as far as our eye could stretch seaward, a scene of such dismal breakers as would discourage the most daring from making attempts in small boats. Nor were we assisted in our enquiries by any observation that could be made from that eminence we called Mount Misery, toward land, our prospect that way being intercepted by still higher hills and lofty woods: we had therefore no other expedient by means of which to come at this knowledge, but by fitting out one of our ship's boats upon some discovery, to inform us of our situation. Our long-boat was still on board the wreck; therefore a number of hands were now dispatched to cut the gunwale of the ship in order to get her out. Whilst we were employed in this business, there appeared three canoes of Indians paddling towards us: they had come round the point from the southern lagoons. It was some time before we could prevail upon them to lay aside their fears and approach us, which at length they were induced to do by the signs of friendship we made them, and by shewing some bale-goods, which they accepted, and suffered themselves to be conducted to the captain, who made them likewise some presents. They were strangely affected with the novelty thereof, but chiefly when shewn the looking-glass, in which the beholder could not conceive it to be his own face that was represented, but that of some other behind it, which he therefore went round to the back of the glass to find out.

These people were of a small stature, very swarthy, having long black coarse hair hanging over their faces. It was evident, from their great surprise and every part of their behaviour, as well as their not having one thing in their possession which could be derived from white people, that they had never seen such. Their clothing was nothing but a bit of some beast's skin about their waists, and something woven from feathers over their shoulders; and as they uttered no word of any language we had ever heard, nor had any method of making themselves understood, we presumed they could have had no intercourse with Europeans. These savages, who upon their departure left us a few mussels, returned in two days, and surprised us by bringing three sheep. From whence they could procure these animals in a part of the world so distant from any Spanish settlement, cut off from all communication with the Spaniards by an inaccessible coast and unprofitable country, is difficult to conceive. Certain it is, that we saw no such creatures, nor ever heard of any such, from the Straits of Magellan till we got into the neighbourhood of Chiloe; it must be by some strange accident that these creatures came into their possession, but what that was we never could learn from them. At this interview we bartered with them for a dog or two, which we roasted and eat. In a few days after they made us another visit, and, bringing their wives with them, took up their abode with us for some days, then left us again.

Whenever the weather permitted, which was now grown something drier, but exceeding cold, we employed ourselves about the wreck, from which we had, at sundry times, recovered several articles of provision and liquor: these were deposited in the store-tent. Ill humour and discontent, from the difficulties we laboured under in procuring subsistence, and the little prospect there was of any amendment in our condition, was now breaking out apace. In some it shewed itself by a separation of settlement and habitation; in others, by a resolution of leaving the captain entirely, and making a wild journey by themselves, without determining upon any plan whatever. For my own part, seeing it was the fashion, and liking none of their parties, I built a little hut just big enough for myself and a poor Indian dog I found in the woods, who could shift for himself along shore at low water, by getting limpets. This creature grew so fond of me and faithful, that he would suffer nobody to come near the hut without biting them. Besides those seceders I mentioned, some laid a scheme of deserting us entirely; these were in number ten, the greatest part of them a most desperate and abandoned crew, who, to strike a notable stroke before they went off, placed half a barrel of gunpowder close to the captain's hut, laid a train to it, and were just preparing to perpetrate their wicked design of blowing up their commander, when they were with difficulty dissuaded from it by one who had some bowels and remorse of conscience left in him. These wretches, after rambling some time in the woods, and finding it impracticable to get off, for they were then convinced that we were not upon the main, as they had imagined when they first left us, but upon an island within four or five leagues of it, returned and settled about a league from us; however, they were still determined, as soon as they could procure craft fit for their purpose, to get to the main. But before they could effect this, we found means to prevail upon the armourer and one of the carpenter's crew, two very useful men to us, who had imprudently joined them, to come over again to their duty. The rest, (one or two excepted) having built a punt, and converted the hull of one of the ship's masts into a canoe, went away up one of the lagoons, and never were heard of more.

[CHAPTER III.]

Unfortunate Death of Mr Cozens.--Improper Conduct of Captain Cheap.--The Indians join us in a friendly Manner, but depart presently on account of the Misconduct of our Men.--Our Number dreadfully reduced by Famine.-- Description of the various Contrivances used for procuring Food.--Further Transactions.--Departure from the Island.

These being a desperate and factious set, did not distress us much by their departure, but rather added to our future security. One in particular, James Mitchell by name, we had all the reason in the world to think had committed no less than two murders since the loss of our ship, one on the person found strangled on board, another on the body of a man whom we discovered among some bushes upon Mount Misery, stabbed in several places, and shockingly mangled. This diminution of our number was succeeded by an unfortunate accident much more affecting in its consequences, I mean the death of Mr Cozens, midshipman; in relating which with the necessary impartiality and exactness, I think myself obliged to be more than ordinary particular. Having one day among other things, got a cask of pease out of the wreck, about which I was almost constantly employed, I brought it to shore in the yawl, when having landed it, the captain came down upon the beach, and bid me to go up to some of the tents and order hands to come down and roll it up; but finding none except Mr Cozens, I delivered him the orders, who immediately came down to the captain, where I left them when I returned to the wreck. Upon my coming on shore again, I found that Mr Cozens was put under confinement by the captain for being drunk and giving him abusive language; however, he was soon after released. A day or two after he had some dispute with the surgeon, and came to blows: all these things incensed the captain greatly against him. I believe this unfortunate man was kept warm with liquor, and set on by some ill-designing persons; for, when sober, I never knew a better-natured man, or one more inoffensive. Some little time after, at the hour of serving provisions, Mr Cozens was at the store-tent; and having, it seems, lately had a quarrel with the purser, and now some words arising between them, the latter told him he was come to mutiny; and without any further ceremony fired a pistol at his head, which narrowly missed him. The captain, hearing the report of the pistol, and perhaps the purser's words, that Cozens was come to mutiny, ran out of his hut with a cocked pistol in his hand, and, without asking any questions, immediately shot him through the head. I was at this time in my hut, as the weather was extremely bad, but running out upon the alarm of this firing, the first thing I saw was Mr Cozens on the ground weltering in his blood: he was sensible, and took me by the hand, as he did several others, shaking his head, as if he meant to take leave of us. If Mr Cozens' behaviour to his captain was indecent and provoking, the captain's, on the other hand, was rash and hasty. If the first was wanting in that respect and observance which is due from a petty officer to his commander, the latter was still more unadvised in the method he took for the enforcement of his authority; of which, indeed, he was jealous to the last degree, and which he saw daily declining, and ready to be trampled upon. His mistaken apprehension of a mutinous design in Mr Cozens, the sole motive of this rash action, was so far from answering the end he proposed by it, that the men, who before were much dissatisfied and uneasy, were by this unfortunate step thrown almost into open sedition and revolt. It was evident that the people, who ran out of their tents, alarmed by the report of fire-arms, though they disguised their real sentiments for the present, were extremely affected at this catastrophe of Mr Cozens, for he was greatly beloved by them: their minds were now exasperated, and it was to be apprehended, that their resentment, which was smothered for the present, would shortly shew itself in some desperate enterprize. The unhappy victim, who lay weltering in his blood on the ground before them, seemed to absorb their whole attention; the eyes of all were fixed upon him; and visible marks of the deepest concern appeared in the countenances of the spectators. The persuasion the captain was under, at the time he shot Mr Cozens, that his intentions were mutinous, together with a jealousy of the diminution of his authority, occasioned also his behaving with less compassion and tenderness towards him afterwards than was consistent with the unhappy condition of the poor sufferer: for when it was begged as a favour by his mess-mates, that Mr Cozens might be removed to their tent, though a necessary thing in his dangerous situation, yet it was not permitted; but the poor wretch was suffered to languish on the ground some days with no other covering than a bit of canvas thrown over some bushes, where he died. But to return to our story: the captain, addressing himself to the people thus assembled, told them, that it was his resolution to maintain his command over them as usual, which still remained in as much force as ever; and then ordered them all to return to their respective tents, with which order they instantly complied. Now we had saved our long-boat from the wreck, and got it in our possession, there was nothing that seemed so necessary towards the advancing our delivery from this desolate place as the new-modelling this vessel, so as to have room for all those who were inclined to go off in her, and to put her in a condition to bear the stormy seas we must of course encounter. We therefore hauled her up, and having placed her upon blocks, sawed her in two, in order to lengthen her about twelve feet by the keel. For this purpose, all those who could be spared from the more immediate task of procuring subsistence, were employed in fitting and shaping timber as the carpenter directed them; I say, in procuring subsistence, because the weather lately having been very tempestuous, and the wreck working much, had disgorged a great part of her contents, which were every where dispersed about the shore.

We now sent frequent parties up the lagoons, which sometimes succeeded in getting some sea-fowl for us. The Indians appearing again in the offing, we put off our yawl in order to frustrate any design they might have of going up the lagoon towards the deserters, who would have availed themselves of some of their canoes to have got upon the main. Having conducted them in, we found that their intention was to settle among us, for they had brought their wives and children with them, in all about fifty persons, who immediately set about building themselves wigwams, and seemed much reconciled to our company; and, could we have entertained them as we ought, they would have been of great assistance to us, who were extremely put to it to subsist ourselves, being a hundred in number; but the men, now subject to little or no controul, endeavoured to seduce their wives, which gave the Indians such offence, that in a short time they found means to depart, taking every thing along with them; and we, being sensible of the cause, never expected to see them return again. The carpenter having made some progress in his work upon the long-boat, in which he was enabled to proceed tolerably, by the tools and other articles of his business retrieved from the wreck, the men began to think of the course they should take to get home; or rather, having borrowed Sir John Narborough's voyage of Captain Cheap, by the application of Mr Bulkely, which book he saw me reading one day in my tent, they immediately upon perusing it, concluded upon making their voyage home by the Straits of Magellan. This plan was proposed to the captain, who by no means approved of it, his design being to go northwards, with a view of seizing a ship of the enemy's, by which means he might join the commodore: at-present, therefore, here it rested. But the men were in high spirits from the prospect they had of getting off in the long-boat, overlooking all the difficulties and hazards of a voyage almost impracticable, and caressing the carpenter, who indeed was an excellent workman, and deserved all the encouragement they could give him. The Indians having left us, and the weather continuing tempestuous and rainy, the distresses of the people for want of food became insupportable. Our number, which was at first 145, was now reduced to 100, and chiefly by famine, which put the rest upon all shifts and devices to support themselves.

One day, when I was at home in my hut with my Indian dog, a party came to my door, and told me their necessities were such, that they must eat the creature or starve.

Though their plea was urgent, I could not help using some arguments to endeavour to dissuade them from killing him, as his faithful services and fondness deserved it at my hands; but, without weighing my arguments, they took him away by force and killed him; upon which, thinking that I had at least as good a right to a share as the rest, I sat down with them and partook of their repast. Three weeks after that I was glad to make a meal of his paws and skin, which, upon recollecting the spot where they had killed him, I found thrown aside and rotten. The pressing calls of hunger drove our men to their wit's end, and put them upon a variety of devices to satisfy it. Among the ingenious this way, one Phipps, a boatswain's mate, having got a water puncheon, scuttled it; then lashing two logs, one on each side, set out in quest of adventures in this extraordinary and original piece of embarkation. By this means he would frequently, when all the rest were starving, provide himself with wild-fowl; and it must have been very bad weather indeed which could deter him from putting out to sea when his occasions required. Sometimes he would venture far out in the offing, and be absent the whole day; at last, it was his misfortune, at a great distance from shore, to be overset by a heavy sea, but being near a rock, though no swimmer, he managed so as to scramble to it, and with great difficulty ascended it: There he remained two days with very little hopes of any relief, for he was too far off to be seen from shore; but fortunately a boat, having put off and gone in quest of wild-fowl that way, discovered him making such signals as he was able, and brought him back to the island. But this accident did not discourage him, but that soon after, having procured an ox's hide, used on board for sifting powder, and called a gunner's hide, by the assistance of some hoops he formed something like a canoe, in which he made several successful voyages. When the weather would permit us, we seldom failed of getting some wild-fowl, though never in any plenty, by putting off with our boats; but this most inhospitable climate is not only deprived of the sun for the most part by a thick, rainy atmosphere, but is also visited by almost incessant tempests. It must be confessed we reaped some benefit from these hard gales and overgrown seas, which drove several things ashore; but there was no dependence on such accidental relief; and we were always alert to avail ourselves of every interval of fair weather, though so little to be depended on, that we were often unexpectedly and to our peril overtaken by a sudden change. In one of our excursions, I, with two more, in a wretched punt of our own making, had no sooner landed at our station upon a high rock, than the punt was driven loose by a sudden squall; and had not one of the men, at the risk of his life, jumped into the sea and swam on board her, we must in all probability have perished, for we were more than three leagues from the island at the time. Among the birds we generally shot, was the painted goose, whose plumage is variegated with the most lively colours; and a bird much larger than a goose, which we called the racehorse, from the velocity with which it moved upon the surface of the water, in a sort of half-flying half- running motion. But we were not so successful in our endeavours by land; for though we sometimes got pretty far into the woods, we met with very few birds in our walks. We never saw but three woodcocks, two of which were killed by Mr Hamilton, and one by myself. These, with some humming-birds, and a large kind of robin red-breast, were the only feathered inhabitants of this island, excepting a small bird with two very long feathers in his tail, which was generally seen amongst the rocks, and was so tame, that I have had them rest upon my shoulder whilst I have been gathering shellfish. Indeed, we were visited by many birds of prey, some very large, but these only occasionally, and, as we imagined, allured by some dead whale in the neighbourhood, which was once seen. However, if we were so fortunate as to kill one of them, we thought ourselves very well off. In one of my walks, seeing a bird of this latter kind upon an eminence, I endeavoured to come upon it unperceived with my gun, by means of the woods which lay at the back of that eminence; but when I had proceeded so far in the wood as to think I was in a line with it, I heard a growling close by me, which made me think it advisable to retire as soon as possible: The woods were so gloomy I could see nothing; but as I retired, this noise followed me close till I had got out of them. Some of our men did assure me that they had seen a very large beast in the woods, but their description of it was too imperfect to be relied upon. The wood here is chiefly of the aromatic kind; the iron wood, a wood of a very deep red hue, and another, of an exceeding bright yellow. All the low spots are very swampy; but, what we thought strange, upon the summits of the highest hills were found beds of shells, a foot or two thick.

The long-boat being nearly finished, some of our company were selected to go out in the barge in order to reconnoitre the coast to the southward, which might assist us in the navigation we were going upon. This party consisted of Mr Bulkely, Mr Jones, the purser, myself, and ten men. The first night we put into a good harbour, a few leagues to the southward of Wager's Island, where finding a large bitch big with puppies, we regaled upon them. In this expedition we had our usual bad weather and breaking seas, which were grown to such a height the third day, that we were obliged, through distress, to push in at the first inlet we saw at hand. This we had no sooner entered, than we were presented with a view of a fine bay, in which having secured the barge, we went ashore; but the weather being very rainy, and finding nothing to subsist upon, we pitched a bell- tent, which we had brought with us, in the wood, opposite to where the barge lay. As this tent was not large enough to contain us all, I proposed to four of the people to go to the end of the bay, about two miles distant from the bell-tent, to occupy the skeleton of an old Indian wigwam, which I had discovered in a walk that way upon our first landing. This we covered to windward with sea-weed; and lighting a fire, laid ourselves down, in hopes of finding a remedy for our hunger in sleep; but we had not long composed ourselves before one of our company was disturbed by the blowing of some animal at his face, and upon opening his eyes was not a little astonished to see by the glimmering of the fire, a large beast standing over him. He had presence of mind enough to snatch a brand from the fire, which was now very low, and thrust it at the nose of the animal, who thereupon made off: This done, the man awoke us, and related, with horror in his countenance, the narrow escape he had of being devoured. But though we were under no small apprehensions of another visit from this animal, yet our fatigue and heaviness was greater than our fears, and we once more composed ourselves to rest, and slept the remainder of the night without any further disturbance. In the morning, we were not a little anxious to know how our companions had fared; and this anxiety was increased upon tracing the footsteps of the beast in the sand in a direction towards the bell-tent. The impression was deep and plain, of a large round foot well furnished with claws. Upon our acquainting the people in the tent with the circumstances of our story, we found that they too had been visited by the same unwelcome guest, which they had driven away by much the same expedient.

We now returned from this cruise, with a strong gale, to Wager's Island, having found it impracticable to make farther discoveries in the barge on so dangerous a coast, and in such heavy seas. Here we soon discovered, by the quarters of dogs hanging up, that the Indians had brought a fresh supply to our market. Upon enquiry, we found that there had been six canoes of them, who, among other methods of taking fish, had taught their dogs to drive the fish into a corner of some pond or lake, from whence they were easily taken out by the skill and address of these savages. The old cabal, during our absence, had been frequently revived; the debates of which generally ended in riot and drunkenness. This cabal was chiefly held in a large tent, which the people belonging to it had taken some pains to make snug and convenient, and lined with bales of broad cloth driven from the wreck. Eighteen of the stoutest fellows of the ship's company had possession of this tent, from whence were dispatched committees to the captain, with the resolutions they had taken with regard to their departure, but oftener for liquor. Their determination was to go in the long-boat to the southward by the Straits of Magellan; and the point they were labouring, was to prevail upon the captain to accompany them. But though he had fixed upon a quite different plan, which was to go to the northward, yet he thought it politic at present seemingly to acquiesce with them, in order to keep them quiet. When they began to stipulate with him, that he should be under some restrictions in point of command, and should do nothing without consulting his officers, he insisted upon the full exercise of his authority as before. This broke all measures between them, and they were from this time determined he should go with them whether he would or no. A better pretence they could not have for effecting this design, than the unfortunate affair of Mr Cozens, which they therefore made use of for seizing his person, and putting him under confinement, in order to bring him to his trial in England.

The long-boat was now launched and ready for sailing, and all the men embarked, excepting Captain Pemberton with a party of marines, who drew them up upon the beach with intent to conduct Captain Cheap on board; but he was at length persuaded to desist from this resolution by Mr Bulkely. The men too, finding they were straitened for room, and that their stock of provision would not admit of their taking supernumeraries aboard, were now no less strenuous for his enlargement, and being left to his option of staying behind. Therefore, after having distributed their share in the reserved stock of provision, which was very small, we departed, leaving Captain Cheap, Mr Hamilton of the marines, and the surgeon, upon the island. I had all along been in the dark as to the turn this affair would take; and not in the least suspecting but that it was determined Captain Cheap should be taken with us, readily embarked under that persuasion; but when I found that this design, which was so seriously carried on to the last, was suddenly dropped, I was determined, upon the first opportunity, to leave them, which was at this instant impossible for me to do, the long- boat lying at some distance off shore at anchor.

We were in all eighty-one when we left the island, distributed into the long-boat, cutter, and barge; fifty-nine on board the first, twelve in the second, in the last ten. It was our purpose to put into some harbour, if possible, every evening, as we were in no condition to keep those terrible seas long; for without other assistance, our stock of provisions was no more than might have been consumed in a few days; our water was chiefly contained in a few powder-barrels; our flour was to be lengthened out by a mixture of sea-weed; and our other supplies depended upon the success of our guns and industry among the rocks. Captain Pemberton having brought on board his men, we weighed, but by a sudden squall of wind having split our foresail, we with difficulty cleared the rocks by means of our boats, bore away for a sandy bay on the south side of the lagoon, and anchored in ten fathom. The next morning we got under weigh, but it blowing hard at W. by N. with a great swell, put into a small bay again, well sheltered by a ledge of rocks without us. At this time it was thought necessary to send the barge away back to Cheap's bay for some spare canvas, which was imagined would be soon wanted. I thought this a good opportunity of returning, and therefore made one with those who went upon this business in the barge. We were no sooner clear of the long-boat, than all of those in the boat with me declared they had the same intention.

When we arrived at the island, we were extremely welcome to Captain Cheap. The next day, I asked him leave to try if I could prevail upon those in the long-boat to give us our share of provisions: this he granted; but said, if we went in the barge they would certainly take her from us. I told him my design was to walk it, and only desired the boat might land me upon the main, and wait for me till I came back. I had the most dreadful journey of it imaginable, through thick woods and swamps all the way; but I might as well have spared myself that trouble, as it was to no manner of purpose, for they would not give me, nor any one of us that left them, a single ounce of provisions of any kind, I therefore returned, and after that made a second attempt, but all in vain. They even threatened, if we did not return with the barge, they would fetch her by force. It is impossible to conceive the distressed situation we were now in at the time of the long- boat's departure. I don't mention this event as the occasion of it; by which, if we who were left on the island experienced any alteration at all, it was for the better, and which, in all probability, had it been deferred, might have been fatal to the greatest part of us; but at this time the subsistence on which we had hitherto depended chiefly, which was the shell- fish, were every where along shore eat up; and as to stock saved from the wreck, it may be guessed what the amount of that might be, when the share allotted to the captain, Lieutenant Hamilton, and the surgeon, was no more than six pieces of beef, as many of pork, and ninety pounds of flour. As to myself and those that left the long-boat, it was the least revenge they thought they could take of us to withhold our provision from us, though at the same time it was hard and unjust. For a day or two after our return there was some little pittance dealt out to us, yet it was upon the foot of favour; and we were soon left to our usual industry for a farther supply. This was now exerted to very little purpose, for the reason before assigned; to which may be added, the wreck was now blown up, all her upper works gone, and no hopes of any valuable driftage from her for the future. A weed called slaugh, fried in the tallow of some candles we had saved, and wild sellery, were our only fare, by which our strengths was so much impaired, that we could scarcely crawl. It was my misfortune too to labour under a severe flux, by which, I was reduced to a very feeble state; so that, in attempting to traverse the rocks in search of shell-fish, I fell from one into very deep water, and with difficulty saved my life by swimming.

As the captain was now freed, by the departure of the long-boat, from the riotous applications, menaces, and disturbance of an unruly crew, and left at liberty to follow the plan he had resolved upon, of going northward, he began to think seriously of putting it in execution, in order to which, a message was sent to the deserters, who had seated themselves on the other side of the neighbouring lagoon, to sound them, whether they were inclined to join the captain in his undertaking, and if they were, to bring them over to him. For this set, the party gone off in the long-boat had left an half-allowance proportion of the common stock of provision. These men, upon the proposal, readily agreed to join their commander; and being conducted to him, increased our number to twenty. The boats which remained in our possession to carry off all these people were only the barge and yawl, two very crazy bottoms; the broadside of the last was entirely out, and the first had suffered much in a variety of bad weather she had gone through, and was much out of repair. And now our carpenter was gone from us, we had no remedy for these misfortunes but the little skill we had gained from him. However, we made tolerable shift to patch up the boats for our purpose. In the height of our distresses, when hunger, which seems to include and absorb all others, was most prevailing, we were cheered with the appearance once more of our friendly Indians, as we thought, from whom we hoped for some relief; but as the consideration was wanting for which alone they would part with their commodities, we were not at all benefited by their stay, which was very short. The little reserve too of flour made by the captain for our sea-stock when we should leave the island, was now diminished by theft: the thieves, who were three of our men, were however soon discovered, and two of them apprehended, but the third made his escape to the woods. Considering the pressing state of our necessities, this theft was looked upon as a most heinous crime, and therefore required an extraordinary punishment: accordingly, the captain ordered these delinquents to be severely whipped, and then to be banished to an island at some distance from us; but before this latter part of the sentence could be put in execution, one of them fled, but the other was put alone upon a barren island, which afforded not the least shelter: however, we, in compassion, and contrary to order, patched him up a bit of a hut and kindled him a fire, and then left the poor wretch to shift for himself. In two or three days after, going to the island in our boat with some little refreshment, such as our miserable circumstances would admit of, and with an intent of bringing him back, we found him dead and stiff. I was now reduced to the lowest condition by my illness, which was increased by the vile stuff I eat, when we were favoured by a fair day, a thing very extraordinary in this climate. We instantly took the advantage of it, and once more visited the last remains of the wreck, her bottom. Here our pains were repaid with the great good fortune of hooking up three casks of beef, which were brought safe to shore. This providential supply could not have happened at a more seasonable time than now, when we were afflicted with the greatest dearth we had ever experienced, and the little strength we had remaining was to be exerted in our endeavours to leave the island. Accordingly we soon found a remedy for our sickness, which was nothing but the effects of famine, and were greatly restored by food. The provision was equally distributed among us all, and served us for the remainder of our stay here.

We began to grow extremely impatient to leave the island, as the days were now nearly at their longest, and about Midsummer in these parts; but as to the weather, there seems to be little difference in a difference of seasons. Accordingly, on the 15th of December, the day being tolerable, we told Captain Cheap we thought it a fine opportunity to run across the bay. But he first desired two or three of us to accompany him to our place of observation, the top of Mount Misery, when, looking through his perspective, he observed to us that the sea ran very high without. However, this had no weight with the people, who were desirous, at all events, to be gone. I should here observe, that Captain Cheap's plan was, if possible, to get to the island of Chiloe, and if we found any vessel there, to board her immediately and cut her out. This he might certainly have done with ease, had it been his good fortune to get round with the boats.

We now launched both boats, and got every thing on board of them as quick as possible. Captain Cheap, the surgeon, and myself, were in the barge with nine men, and, Lieutenant Hamilton and Mr Campbell in the yawl with six. I steered the barge, and Mr Campbell the yawl; but we had not been two hours at sea before the wind shifted more to the westward and began to blow very hard, and the sea ran extremely high, so that we could no longer keep our heads towards the cape or headland we had designed for. This cape we had had a view of, in one of the intervals of fair weather during our abode on the island, from Mount Misery; and it seemed to be distant between twenty and thirty leagues from us. We were now obliged to bear away right before the wind. Though the yawl was not far from us, we could see nothing of her, except now and then upon the top of a mountainous sea. In both the boats the men were obliged to sit as close as possible, to receive the seas on their backs, to prevent their filling us, which was what we every moment expected. We were obliged to throw every thing overboard to lighten the boats, all our beef, and even the grapnel, to prevent sinking. Night was coming on, and we were running on a lee-shore fast, where the sea broke in a frightful manner. Not one amongst us imagined it possible for boats to live in such a sea. In this situation, as we neared the shore, expecting to be beat to pieces by the first breaker, we perceived a small opening between the rocks, which we stood for, and found a very narrow passage between them, which brought us into a harbour for the boats, as calm and smooth as a mill-pond. The yawl had got in before us, and our joy was great at meeting again after so unexpected a deliverance. Here we secured the boats, and ascended a rock.

It rained excessively hard all the first part of the night, and was extremely cold; and though we had not a dry thread about us, and no wood could be found for firing, we were obliged to pass the night in that uncomfortable situation, without any covering, shivering in our wet clothes. The frost coming on with the morning, it was impossible for any of us to get a moment's sleep; and having flung overboard our provision the day before, there being no prospect of finding any thing to eat on this coast, in the morning we pulled out of the cove, but found so great a sea without, that we could make but little of it. After tugging all day, towards night we put in among some small islands, landed upon one of them, and found it a mere swamp. As the weather was the same, we passed this night much as we had done the preceding; sea-tangle was all we could get to eat at first, but the next day we had better luck; the surgeon got a goose, and we found materials for a good fire.

We were confined here three or four days, the weather all that time proving so bad that we could not put out. As soon as it grew moderate, we left this place and shaped our course to the northward; and perceiving a large opening between very high land and a low point, we steered for it, and when got that length, found a large bay, down which we rowed, flattering ourselves there might be a passage that way; but towards night we came to the bottom of the bay, and finding no outlet, we were obliged to return the same way we came, having found nothing the whole day to alleviate our hunger.

[CHAPTER IV.]

Occurrences on our Voyage.--We encounter bad Weather and various Dangers and Distresses.--Leave a Part of our Crew behind on a desert Shore.--A strange Cemetry discovered.--Narrow Escape from Wreck.--Return to Mount Misery.--We are visited by a Chanos Indian Cacique, who talks Spanish, with whom we again take our Departure from the Island.

Next night we put into a little cove, which, from the great quantity of red wood found there, we called Red-wood Cove. Leaving this place in the morning, we had the wind southerly, blowing fresh, by which we made much way that day to the northward. Towards evening we were in with a pretty large island. Putting ashore on it, we found it clothed with the finest trees we had ever seen, their stems running up to a prodigious height, without knot or branch, and as straight as cedars; the leaf of these trees resembles the myrtle leaf, only somewhat larger. I have seen trees larger than these in circumference on the coast of Guinea, and there only; but for a length of stem, which gradually tapered, I have no where met with any to compare to them. The wood was of a hard substance, and if not too heavy, would have made good masts; the dimensions of some of these trees being equal to a main-mast of a first-rate man of war. The shore was covered with drift wood of a very large size, most of it cedar, which makes a brisk fire; but is so subject to snap and fly, that when we waked in the morning, after a sound sleep, we found our clothes singed in many places with the sparks, and covered with splinters.

The next morning being calm, we rowed out, but as soon as clear of the island, we found a great swell from the westward; we rowed to the bottom of a very large bay which was to the northward of us, the land very low, and we were in hopes of finding some inlet through, but did not, so kept along shore to the westward. This part, which I take to be above fifty leagues from Wager Island, is the very bottom of the large bay it lies in. Here was the only passage to be found, which, if we could by any means have got information of it, would have saved us much fruitless labour. Of this passage I shall have occasion to say more hereafter.

Having at this time an off-shore wind, we kept the wind close on board till we came to a head-land: it was near night before we got abreast of the head-land, and opening it discovered a very large bay to the northward, and another head-land to the westward, at a great distance. We endeavoured to cut short our passage to it by crossing, which is very seldom to be effected in these overgrown seas by boats; and this we experienced now, for the wind springing up, and beginning to blow fresh, we were obliged to put back towards the first head-land, into a small cove, just big enough to shelter the two boats. Here an accident happened that alarmed us much. After securing our boats, we climbed up a rock scarcely large enough to contain our numbers: having nothing to eat, we betook ourselves to our usual receipt for hunger, which was going to sleep. We accordingly made a fire, and stowed ourselves round it as well as we could, but two of our men being incommoded for want of room, went a little way from us into a small nook, over which a great cliff hung, and served them for a canopy.

In the middle of the night we were awakened with a terrible rambling, which we apprehended to be nothing less than the shock of an earthquake, which we had before experienced in these parts; and this conjecture we had reason to think not ill founded, upon hearing hollow groans and cries as of men half swallowed up. We immediately got up, and ran to the place from whence the cries came, and then we were put out of all doubt as to the opinion we had formed of this accident, for here we found the two men almost buried under loose stones and earth; but upon a little farther enquiry, we were undeceived as to the cause we had imputed this noise to, which we found to be occasioned by the sudden giving way of the impending cliff, which fell a little beyond our people, carrying trees and rocks with it and loose earth, the latter of which fell in part on our men, whom we with some pains rescued from their uneasy situation, from which they escaped with some bruises.

The next morning we got out early, and the wind being westerly, rowed the whole day for the head-land we had seen the night before; but when we had got that length, could find no harbour, but were obliged to go into a sandy bay, and lay the whole night upon our oars, and a most dreadful one it proved, blowing and raining very hard. Here we were so pinched with hunger, that we eat the shoes off our feet, which consisted of raw seal-skin. In the morning we got out of the bay, but the incessant foul weather had overcome us, and we began to be indifferent as to what befel us; and the boats in the night making into a bay, we nearly lost the yawl, a breaker having filled her and driven her ashore upon the beach. This, by some of our accounts, was Christmas-day; but our accounts had so often been interrupted by our distresses, that there was no depending upon them. Upon seeing the yawl in this imminent danger, the barge stood off and went into another bay to the northward of it, where it was smoother lying; but there was no possibility of getting on shore. In the night the yawl joined us again.

The next day was so bad, that we despaired reaching the head-land, so rowed down the bay in hopes of getting some seal, as that animal had been seen the day before, but met with no success; so returned to the same bay we had been in the night before, where the surf having abated somewhat, we went ashore and picked up a few shell-fish. In the morning we got on board early, and ran along shore to the westward for about three leagues, in order to get round a cape, which was the westernmost land we could see. It blew very hard, and there ran such a sea, that we heartily wished ourselves back again, and accordingly made the best of our way for that bay which we had left in the morning; but before we could reach it night came on, and we passed a most dismal one, lying upon our oars.

The weather continuing very bad, we put in for the shore in the morning, where we found nothing but tangle and sea-weed. We now passed some days roving about for provisions, as the weather was too bad to make another attempt to get round the cape as yet. We found some fine lagoons towards the head of the bay, and in them killed some seal, and got a good quantity of shell-fish, which was a great relief to us. We now made a second attempt to double the cape; but when we got the length of it, and passed the first head-land, for it consists of three of an equal height, we got into a sea that was horrid, for it ran all in heaps like the Race of Portland, but much worse. We were happy to put back to the old place, with little hopes of ever getting round this cape.

Next day, the weather proving very bad, all hands went ashore to procure some sustenance, except two in each boat, which were left as boat-keepers: this office we took by turns, and it was now my lot to be upon this duty with another man. The yawl lay within us at a grapnel; in the night it blew very hard, and a great sea tumbled in upon the shore; but being extremely fatigued, we in the boats went to sleep: notwithstanding, however, I was at last awakened by the uncommon motion of the boat, and the roaring of the breakers every where about us. At the same time I heard a shrieking, like to that of persons in distress; I looked out, and saw the yawl canted bottom upwards by a sea, and soon afterwards disappeared. One of our men, whose name was William Rose, a quarter-master, was drowned; the other was thrown ashore by the surf, with his head buried in the sand, but by the immediate assistance of the people on shore, was saved. As for us in the barge, we expected the same fate every moment, for the sea broke a long way without us. However, we got her head to it, and hove up our grapnel, or should rather say kellick, which we had made to serve in the room of our grapnel, hove overboard some time before to lighten the boat. By this means we used our utmost efforts to pull her without the breakers some way, and then let go our kellick again. Here we lay all the next day in a great sea, not knowing what would be our fate. To add to our mortification, we could see our companions in tolerable plight ashore, eating seal, while we were starving with hunger and cold. For this month past we had not known what it was to have a dry thread about us.

The next day being something more moderate, we ventured in with the barge as near as we could to the shore, and our companions threw us some seals liver, which having eat greedily, we were seized with excessive sickness, which affected us so much that our skin peeled off from, head to foot.

Whilst the people were on shore here, Mr Hamilton met with a large seal or sea-lion, and fired a brace of balls into him, upon which the animal turned upon him open-mouthed; but presently fixing his bayonet, he thrust it down its throat, with, a good part of the barrel of the gun, which the creature bit in two seemingly with as much ease as if it had been a twig. Notwithstanding the wounds it received, it eluded all farther efforts to kill it, and got clear off.

I call this animal a large seal or sea-lion, because it resembles a seal in many particulars; but then it exceeds it so much in size, as to be sufficiently determined, by that distinction only, to be of another species. Mr Walter, in Lord Anson's voyage, has given a particular description of those which are seen about Juan Fernandes; but they have in other climates different appearances as well as different qualities, as we had occasion to observe in this and a late voyage I made. However, as so much already has been said of the sea-lion, I shall only mention two peculiarities, one relative to its appearance, and the other to its properties of action, which distinguish it from those described by him. Those I saw were without that snout or trunk hanging below the end of the upper jaw; but then the males were furnished with a large shaggy mane, which gave them a most formidable appearance. And, whereas, he says those he saw were unwieldy and easily destroyed, we found some, on the contrary, that lay at a mile's distance from the water, which came down upon us when disturbed with such impetuosity, that it was as much as we could do to get out of their way; and, when attacked, would turn upon us with, great agility.

Having lost the yawl, and being too many for the barge to carry off, we were compelled to leave four of our men behind. They were all marines, who seemed to have no great objection to the determination made with regard to them, so exceedingly disheartened and worn out were they with the distresses and dangers they had already gone through. And, indeed, I believe it would have been a matter of indifference to the greatest part of the rest, whether they should embark or take their chance. The captain distributed to these poor fellows arms and ammunition, and some other necessaries. When we parted, they stood upon the beach, giving us three cheers, and called out, God bless the King! We saw them a little after setting out upon their forlorn hope, and helping one another over a hideous tract of rocks; but considering the difficulties attending this only way of travelling left them, for the woods are impracticable, from their thickness and the deep swamps every where to be met in them; considering too that the coast here is rendered so inhospitable by the heavy seas that are constantly tumbling upon it, as not to afford even a little shell-fish, it is probable that all met with a miserable end.

We rowed along shore to the westward in order to make one more attempt to double the cape; when abreast of the first head-land, there ran such a sea that we expected every moment the boat would go down. But as the preservation of life had now in a great measure lost its actuating principle upon us, we still kept pushing through it, till we opened a bay to the northward. In all my life I never saw so dreadful a sea as drove in here; it began to break at more than half a mile from the shore. Perceiving now that it was impossible for any boat to get round, the men lay upon their oars till the boat was very near the breakers, the mountainous swell that then ran heaving her in at a great rate. I thought it was their intention to put an end to their lives and misery at once, but nobody spoke for some time. At last Captain Cheap told them they must either perish immediately, or pull stoutly for it to get off the shore, but they might do as they pleased. They chose, however, to exert themselves a little, and after infinite difficulty got round the head-land again, giving up all thoughts of making any further attempt to double the cape. It was night before we could get back to the bay, where we were compelled to leave four of our men, in order to save, if possible, the remainder; for we must all have certainly perished, if more than sixteen had been crowded into so small a boat: this bay we named Marine Bay. When we had returned to this bay, we found the surf ran so high, that we were obliged to lay upon our oars all night; and it was now resolved to go back to Wager's island, there to linger out a miserable life, as we had not the least prospect of returning home.

But before we set out, in consequence of this resolution, it was necessary, if possible, to get some little stock of seal to support us in a passage, upon which, whenever we might put in, we were not likely to meet with any supply. Accordingly, it was determined to go up that lagoon, in which, we had before got some seal, to provide ourselves with some more, but we did not leave the bay till we had made some search after the unhappy marines we had left on shore. Could we have found them, we had now agreed to take them on board again, though it would have been the certain destruction of us all. This, at another time, would have been mere madness; but we were now resigned to our fate, which we none of us thought far off; however, there was nothing to be seen of them, and no traces but a musket on the beach.

Upon returning up the lagoon, we were so fortunate as to kill some seal, which we boiled and laid in the boat for sea-stock. While we were ranging along shore in detached parties in quest of this and whatever other eatable might come in our way, our surgeon, who was then by himself, discovered a pretty large hole, which seemed to lead to some den or repository within the rocks. It was not so rude or natural, but that there were some signs of its having been cleared and made more accessible by industry. The surgeon for some time hesitated whether he should venture in, from his uncertainty as to the reception he might meet with from any inhabitant; but his curiosity getting the better of his fears, he determined to go in, which he did upon his hands and knees, as the passage was too low for him to enter otherwise.

After having proceeded a considerable way thus, he arrived at a spacious chamber, but whether hollowed out by hands, or natural, he could not be positive. The light into this chamber was conveyed through a hole at the top; in the midst was a kind of bier, made of sticks laid crossways, supported by props of about five feet in height. Upon this bier five or six bodies were extended, which, in appearance, had been deposited there a long time, but had suffered no decay or diminution. They were without covering, and the flesh of their bodies was become perfectly dry and hard, which whether done by any art or secret the savages may be possessed of, or occasioned by any drying virtue in the air of the cave, could not be guessed. Indeed, the surgeon finding nothing there to eat, which was his chief inducement for his creeping into this hole, did not amuse himself with long disquisitions, or make that accurate examination which he would have done at another time; but crawling out as he came in, he went and told the first he met of what he had seen. Some had the curiosity to go in likewise.

I had forgot to mention that there was another range of bodies deposited in the same manner upon another platform under the bier. Probably this was the burial-place of their great men called Caciques; but from whence they could be brought we were utterly at a loss to conceive, there being no traces of any Indian settlement hereabout. We had seen no savages since we left the island, or observed any marks in the coves or bays to the northward where we had touched, such as of fire-places or old wig-wams, which they never fail of leaving behind them; and it is very probable, from the violent seas that are always beating upon this coast, its deformed aspect, and the very swampy soil that every where borders upon it, that it is little frequented.

We now crossed the first bay for the head-land we left on Christmas-day, much dejected; for under our former sufferings we were in some measure supported with the hopes, that as we advanced, however little, they were so much the nearer their termination; but now our prospect was dismal and dispiriting indeed, as we had the same difficulties and dangers to encounter, not only without any flattering views to lessen them, but under the aggravating circumstance of their leading to an inevitable and miserable death; for we could not possibly conceive that the fate of starving could be avoided by any human means, upon, that desolate island we were returning to. The shell-fish, which was the only subsistence that island had hitherto afforded in any measure, was exhausted; and the Indians had shewn themselves so little affected by the common incitements of compassion, that we had no hopes to build upon any impressions of that sort in them. They had already refused to barter their dogs with us, for want of a valuable commodity on our side; so that it is wonderful we did not give ourselves up to despondency, and lay aside all farther attempts; but we were supported by that invisible Power, who can make the most untoward circumstances subservient to his gracious purposes.

At this time our usual bad weather attended us; the night too set in long before we could reach the cove we before had taken shelter in, so that we were obliged to keep the boat's head to the sea all night, the sea every where astern of us running over hideous breakers. In the morning, we designed standing over for that island in which we had observed those strait and lofty trees before-mentioned, and which Captain Cheap named Montrose Island; but as soon as we opened the head-land to the westward of us, a sudden squall took the boat, and very near overset her. We were instantly full of water; but by baling with our hats and hands, and any thing that would hold water, we with difficulty freed her. Under this alarming circumstance, we found it advisable to return back and put in to the cove which the night before we were prevented getting into. We were detained here two or three days by exceeding bad weather, so that had we not fortunately provided ourselves with some seal, we must have starved, for this place afforded us nothing.

At length we reached Montrose Island. This is by much the best and pleasantest spot we had seen in this part of the world, though it has nothing on it eatable but some berries, which resemble goose-berries in flavour: they are of a black hue, and grow in swampy ground; and the bush or tree that bears them, is much taller than that of our goose berries. We remained here some time, living upon these berries and the remainder of our seal, which was now grown quite rotten. Our two or three first attempts to put out from this island were without success, the tempestuous weather obliging us to put back again. One of our people was much inclined to remain here, thinking it at least as good a place as Wager's Island to end his days upon; but he was obliged by the rest to go off with them. We had not been long out before it began to blow a storm of wind; and the mist came on so thick, that we could not see the land, and were at a loss which way to steer; but we heard the sea, which ran exceedingly high, breaking near us, upon which we immediately hauled aft the sheet, and hardly weathered the breakers by a boat's length. At the same time we shipped a sea that nearly filled us; it struck us with that violence as to throw me and one or two more down into the bottom of the boat, where we were half drowned before we could get up again. This was one of the most extraordinary escapes we had in the course of this expedition; for Captain Cheap and every one else had entirely given themselves up for lost. However, it pleased God that we got that evening into Red-wood Cove, where the weather continued so bad all night we could keep no fire in to dry ourselves with; but there being no other alternative for us but to stay here and starve, or put to sea again, we chose the latter, and put out in the morning again, though the weather was very little mended.

In three or four days after, we arrived at our old station, Wager's Island, but in such a miserable plight, that though we thought our condition upon setting out would not admit of any additional circumstance of misery, yet it was to be envied in comparison of what we now suffered, so worn and reduced were we by fatigue and hunger, having eat nothing for some days but sea-weed and tangle. Upon this expedition, we had been out, by our account, just two months; in which we had rounded, backwards and forwards, the great bay formed to the northward by that high land we had observed from Mount Misery.

The first thing we did upon our arrival was to secure the barge, as this was our sole dependence for any relief that might offer by sea; which done, we repaired to our huts, which formed a kind of village or street, consisting of several irregular habitations, some of which being covered by a kind of brush-wood thatch, afforded tolerable shelter against the inclemency of the weather. Among these, there was one which we observed with some surprise to be nailed up. We broke it open, and found some iron- work, picked out with much pains from those pieces of the wreck which, were driven ashore. We concluded from hence, that the Indians who had been here in our absence were not of that tribe with which we had some commerce before, who seemed to set no value upon iron, but from some other quarter; and must have had communication with the Spaniards, from whom they had learned the value and use of that commodity.

Thieving from strangers is a commendable talent among savages in general, and bespeaks an address which they much admire; though the strictest honesty with regard to the property of each other is observed among them. There is no doubt but they ransacked all our houses, but the men had taken care before they went off in the long-boat to strip them of their most valuable furniture, that is, the bales of cloth used for lining, and converted them into trowsers and watch-coats. Upon farther search, we found, thrown aside in the bushes at the back of one of the huts, some pieces of seal in a very putrid condition, which, however, our stomachs were far from loathing. The next business which the people set about very seriously, was to proceed to Mount Misery, and bury the corpse of the murdered person mentioned to have been discovered there some little time after our being cast away; for to the neglect of this necessary tribute to that unfortunate person the men assigned all their ill success upon the late expedition.

That common people in general are addicted to superstitious conceits, is an observation founded on experience, and the reason is evident; but I cannot allow that common seamen are more so than others of the lower class. In the most enlightened ages of antiquity, we find it to have been the popular opinion, that the spirits of the dead were not at rest till their bodies were interred; and that they did not cease to haunt and trouble those who had neglected this duty to the departed. This is still believed by the vulgar in most countries; and in our men this persuasion was much heightened by the melancholy condition they were reduced to, and was farther confirmed by an occurrence which happened some little time before we went upon our last expedition. One night we were alarmed with a strange cry, which resembled that of a man drowning. Many of us ran out of our huts towards the place from whence the noise proceeded, which was not far off shore, where we could perceive, but not distinctly, (for it was then moonlight) an appearance like that of a man swimming half out of water. The noise that this creature uttered was so unlike that of any animal they had heard before, that it made a great impression upon the men; and they frequently recalled this apparition at the time of their distresses, with reflections on the neglect of the office they were now fulfilling.

We were soon driven again to the greatest straits for want of something to subsist upon, by the extreme bad weather that now set in upon us. Wild sellery was all we could procure, which raked our stomachs instead of assuaging our hunger. That dreadful and last resource of men, in not much worse circumstances than ours, of consigning one man to death for the support of the rest, began to be mentioned in whispers; and indeed there were some among as who, by eating what they found raw, were become little better than cannibals. But fortunately for us, and opportunely to prevent this horrid proceeding, Mr Hamilton at this time found some rotten pieces of beef cast up by the sea at some miles distance from the huts, which he, though a temptation which few would have resisted in parallel circumstances, scorned to conceal from the rest, but generously distributed among us.

A few days after, the mystery of the nailing up of the hut, and what had been doing by the Indians upon the island in our absence, was partly explained to us; for about the 15th day after our return, there came a party of Indians to the island in two canoes, who were not a little surprised to find us here again. Among these, was an Indian of the tribe of the Chonos, who live in the neighbourhood of Chiloe.[117] He talked the Spanish language, but with that savage accent which renders it almost unintelligible to any but those who are adepts in that language. He was likewise a cacique, or leading man of his tribe, which authority was confirmed to him by the Spaniards; for he carried the usual badge and mark of distinction by which the Spaniards and their dependants hold their military and civil employments, which is a stick with a silver head. These badges, of which the Indians are very vain, at once serve to retain the cacique in the strongest attachment to the Spanish government, and give him greater weight with his own dependants: yet, withal, he is the merest slave, and has not one thing he can call his own.

[117] Chiloe is an island on the western coast of America, situated in 42° 40 of S. latitude, and the southernmost settlement under the Spanish jurisdiction on that coast.

This report of our shipwreck (as we supposed) having reached the Chonos, by means of the intermediate tribes, which handed it to one another from those Indians who first visited us, this cacique was either sent to learn the truth of the rumour, or, having first got the intelligence, set out with a view of making some advantage of the wreck, and appropriating such iron- work as he could gather from it to his own use; for that metal is become very valuable to those savages, since their commerce with the Spaniards has taught them to apply it to several purposes. But as the secreting any thing from a rapacious Spanish rey or governor (even an old rusty nail) by any of their Indian dependants, is a very dangerous offence, he was careful to conceal the little prize he had made till he could conveniently carry it away; for in order to make friends of these savages, we had left their hoard untouched.

Our surgeon, Mr Elliot, being master of a few Spanish words, made himself so far understood by the cacique, as to let him know that our intention was to reach some of the Spanish settlements if we could; that we were unacquainted with the best and safest way, and what track was most likely to afford us subsistence in our journey; promising, if he would undertake to conduct us in the barge, he should have it and every thing in it for his trouble as soon as it had served our present occasions. To these conditions the cacique, after much persuasion, at length agreed. Accordingly, having made the best preparation we could, we embarked on board the barge to the number of fifteen, including the cacique, whose name was Martin, and his servant Emanuel. We were, indeed, sixteen when we returned from our last fruitless attempt to get off the island, but we had buried two since that, who perished with hunger; and a marine, having committed theft, ran away to avoid the punishment his crime deserved, and hid himself in the woods, since which he was never heard of. We now put off, accompanied with the two Indian canoes, in one of which was a savage with his two wives, who had an air of dignity superior to the rest, and was handsome in his person. He had his hut, during his stay with us, separate from the other Indians, who seemed to pay him extraordinary respect; but in two or three nights, these Indians, being independent of the Spaniards, and living somewhere to the southward of our Chonos guide, left us to proceed on our journey by ourselves.

The first night we lay at an island destitute of all refreshment, where having found some shelter for our boat and made ourselves a fire, we slept by it. The next night we were more unfortunate, though our wants were increasing, for, having run to the westward of Montrose Island, we found no shelter for the barge, but were under the necessity of lying upon our oars, suffering the most extreme pangs of hunger. The next day brought us to the bottom of a great bay, where the Indian guide had left his family, a wife and two children, in a hut. Here we staid two or three days, during which we were constantly employed in ranging along shore in quest of shell-fish.

[CHAPTER V.]

Navigation of the River.--One of our Men dies from Fatigue.--Inhumanity of the Captain.--Description of our Passage through a horrible and desolate Country.--Our Conductor leaves us, and a Party of our Men desert with the Boat.--Dreadful Situation of the Remainder.--The Cacique returns.--Account of our Journey Overland.--Kindness of two Indian Women.--Description of the Indian Mode of Fishing.--Cruel Treatment of my Indian Benefactress by her Husband.

We now again proceeded on our voyage, having received on board the family of our guide, who conducted us to a river, the stream of which was so rapid, that, after our almost efforts from morning to evening, we gained little upon the current, and at last were obliged to desist from our attempt, and return. I had hitherto steered the boat, but one of our men sinking under the fatigue, expired soon after, which obliged me to take the oar in his room, and row against this heart-breaking stream. Whilst I was thus employed, one of our men, whose name was John Bosman, though hitherto the stoutest man among us, fell from his seat under the thwarts, complaining that his strength was quite exhausted for want of food, and that he should die very shortly. As he lay in this condition, he would every now and then break out in the most pathetic wishes for some little sustenance, that two or three monthfuls might be the means of saving his life. The captain at this time had a large piece of boiled seal by him, and was the only one that was provided with any thing like a meal; but we were become so hardened against the impressions of others sufferings by our own, so familiarized to scenes of this and every other kind of misery, that the poor man's dying entreaties were vain. I sat next to him when he dropped, and having a few dried shell-fish (about five or six) in my pocket, from time to time put one in his mouth, which served only to prolong his pains; from which, however, soon after my little supply failed, he was released by death. For this, and another man I mentioned a little before to have expired under the like circumstances, when we returned from this unsuccessful enterprize, we made a grave in the sands.

It would have redounded greatly to the tenderness and humanity of Captain Cheap, if at this time he had remitted somewhat of that attention he shewed to self-preservation, which is hardly allowable but where the consequence of relieving others must be immediately and manifestly fatal to ourselves; but I would venture to affirm, that in these last affecting exigencies, as well as some others, a sparing perhaps adequate to the emergency, might have been admitted consistently with a due regard to his own necessities. The captain had better opportunities of recruiting his stock than any of us; for his rank was considered by the Indians a reason for supplying him when he would not find a bit for us. Upon the evening of the day in which these disasters happened, the captain producing a large piece of boiled seal, suffered no one to partake with him but the surgeon, who was the only man in favour at this time. We did not expect, indeed, any relief from him in our present condition, for we had a few small mussels and herbs to eat; but the men could not help expressing the greatest indignation at his neglect of the deceased, saying, that he deserved to be deserted by the rest for his savage behaviour.

The endeavouring to pass up this river was for us, who had so long struggled with hunger, a most unseasonable attempt, by which we were harassed to a degree that threatened to be fatal to more of us; but our guide, without any respect to the condition our hardships had reduced us to, was very solicitous for us to go that way, which possibly he had gone before in light canoes, but for such a boat as ours, was impracticable. We conceived, therefore, at that time, that this was some short cut, which was to bring us forward in our voyage; but we had reason to think afterwards, that the greater probability there was of his getting the barge, which was the wages of his undertaking, safe to his settlement by this, rather than another course, was his motive for preferring it to the way we took afterwards, where there was a carrying place of considerable length, over which it would have been impossible to have carried our boat.

The country hereabouts wears the most uncouth, desolate, and rugged aspect imaginable; it is so circumstanced as to discourage the most sanguine adventurers from attempts to settle in it: Were it for no other reason than the constant heavy rains, or rather torrents, which pour down here, and the vast sea and surf which the prevailing westerly winds impel upon this coast, it must be rendered inhospitable. All entrance into the woods is not only extremely difficult, but hazardous, not from any assaults you are likely to meet with from wild beasts, for even these could hardly find convenient harbour here, but from the deep swamp, which is the reigning soil of this country, and in which the woods may be said rather to float than grow; so that, except upon a range of deformed broken rocks which form the sea-coast, the traveller cannot find sound footing any where. With this unpromising scene before us we were now setting out in search of food, which nothing but the most pressing instances of hunger could induce us to do: We had, indeed, the young Indian servant to our cacique for our conductor, who was left by him to show us where the shell-fish was most plenty. The cacique was gone with the rest of his family in the canoe, with a view of getting some seal, upon a trip which would detain him from us three or four days.

After searching the coast some time with very little success, we began to think of returning to the barge; but six of the men, with the Indian, having advanced some few paces before the officers, got into the boat first, which they had no sooner done than they put off and left us, to return no more. And now all the difficulties we had hitherto endured seemed light in comparison of what we expected to suffer from this treachery of our men, who, with the boat, had taken away every thing that might be the means of preserving our lives. The little clothes we had saved from the wreck, our muskets and ammunition, were gone, except a little powder, which must be preserved for kindling fires, and one gun which I had, and was now become useless for want of ammunition; and all these wants were now come upon us at a time when we could not be worse situated for supplying them. Yet under these dismal and forlorn appearances was our delivery now preparing; and from these hopeless circumstances were we to draw hereafter an instance scarce to be paralleled, of the unsearchable ways of Providence.

It was at that time little suspected by us, that the barge, in which we founded all our hopes of escaping from this savage coast, would certainly have proved the fatal cause of detaining us till we were consumed by the labour and hardships requisite to row her round the capes and great headlands; for it was impossible to carry her by land as we did the boats of the Indians. At present, no condition could be worse than we thought ours to be: There ran at this time a very high sea, which breaking with great fury upon this coast, made it very improbable that sustenance in any proportion to our wants could be found upon it; yet unpromising as this prospect was, and though little succour could be expected from this quarter, I could not help, as I strolled along shore from the rest, casting my eyes towards the sea. Continuing thus to look out, I thought I saw something now and then upon the top of a sea that looked black, which, upon observing still more intently, I imagined at last to be a canoe; but reflecting afterwards how unusual it was for Indians to venture out in so mountainous a sea, and at such a distance from the land, I concluded myself to be deceived. However, its nearer approach convinced me, beyond all doubt, of its being a canoe; but that it could not put in any where hereabouts, but intended for some other part of the coast. I ran back as fast as I could to my companions, and acquainted them with what I had seen.

The despondency they were in would not allow them to give credit to it at first; but afterwards, being convinced that it was as I reported it, we were all in the greatest hurry to strip off some of our rags to make a signal withal, which we fixed upon a long pole. This had the desired effect: The people in the canoe seeing the signal, made towards the land at about two miles distance from us, for no boat could approach the land where we were. There they put into a small cove, sheltered by a large ledge of rocks without, which broke the violence of the sea. Captain Cheap and I walked along shore, and got to the cove about the time they landed. Here we found the persons arrived in this canoe to be our Indian guide and his wife, who had left us some days before. He would have asked us many questions, but neither Captain Cheap nor I understanding Spanish at that time, we took him along with us to the surgeon, whom we had left so ill that he could hardly raise himself from the ground.

When the Indian began to confer with the surgeon, the first question was, What was become of the barge and his companions? and as he could give him no satisfactory answer to this question, the Indian took it for granted that Emanuel was murdered by us, and that he and his family ran the same risk; upon which he was preparing to provide for his security, by leaving us directly. The surgeon seeing this, did all in his power to pacify him, and convince him of the unreasonableness of his apprehensions, which he at length found means to do, by assuring him that the Indian would come to no harm, but that he would soon see him return safe: which providentially, and beyond our expectation, happened accordingly, for in a few days after, Emanuel, having contrived to make his escape from the people in the barge, returned by ways that were impassable to any creature but an Indian. All that we could learn from Emanuel relative to his escape was, that he took the first opportunity of leaving them, which was upon their putting into a bay somewhere to the westward.

We had but one gun among us, and that was a small fowling-piece of mine; no ammunition but a few charges of powder I had about me; and as the Indian was very desirous of returning to the place where he had left his wife and canoe, Captain Cheap desired I would go with him and watch over him all night, to prevent his getting away. Accordingly I set out with him, and when he and his family betook themselves to rest in the little wigwam they had made for that purpose, I kept my station as centinel over them all night.

The next morning Captain Cheap, Mr Hamilton, and the surgeon joined us; the latter, by illness, being reduced to the most feeble condition, was supported by Mr Hamilton and Mr Campbell. After holding some little consultation together, as to the best manner of proceeding in our journey, it was agreed, that the Indian should haul his canoe, with our assistance, over land, quite across the island we were then upon, and put her into a bay on the other side, from whence he was to go in quest of some other Indians by whom he expected to be joined; but as his canoe was too small to carry more than three or four persons, he thought it advisable to take only Captain Cheap and myself with him, and to leave his wife and children as pledges with our companions till his return.

As it was matter of uncertainty whether we should ever recover the barge or not, which was stipulated, on our side, to become the property of the cacique upon his fulfilling his engagements with us; the inducements we now made use of to prevail upon him to proceed with us in our journey were, that he should have my fowling-piece, some little matters in the possession of Captain Cheap, and that we would use our interest to procure him some small pecuniary reward.

We were now to set off in the canoe, in which I was to assist him in rowing. Accordingly, putting from this island, we rowed hard all this day and the next, without any thing to eat but a scrap of seal, a very small portion of which fell to my share. About two hours after the close of the day, we put ashore, where we discovered six or seven wigwams. For my part, my strength was so exhausted with fatigue and hunger, that it would have been impossible for me to have held out another day at this toilsome work. As soon as we landed, the Indian conducted Captain Cheap with him into a wigwam, but I was left to shift for myself.

Thus left, I was for some time at a loss what I had best do, for knowing that in the variety of dispositions observable among the Indians, the surly and savage temper is the most prevalent, I had good reason to conclude, that if I obtruded myself upon them, my reception would be but indifferent. Necessity, however, put me upon the risk; I accordingly pushed into the next wigwam upon my hands and knees, for the entrance into these kind of buildings is too low to admit of any other manner of getting into them. To give a short description of these temporary houses called wigwams, may not be improper here, for the satisfaction of those who never saw any, especially as they differ somewhat from those of North America, which are more generally known from the numerous accounts of that country.

When the Indians of this part of the world have occasion to stop any where in their rambles, if it be only for a night or two, the men, who take this business upon them, while the women are employed in much more laborious offices, such as diving in the sea for sea-eggs, and searching the rocks for shell-fish, getting fuel, &c., repair to the woods, and cutting a sufficient number of tall strait branches, fix them in an irregular kind of circle of uncertain dimensions; which having done, they bend the extremities of these branches so as to meet in a centre at top, where they bind them by a kind of woodbine called supple-jack, which they split by holding it in their teeth. This frame, or skeleton of a hut, is made tight against the weather with a covering of boughs and bark; but as the bark is not got without some trouble, they generally take it with them when they remove, putting it at the bottom of their canoes: The rest of the wigwam they leave standing. The fire is made in the middle of the wigwam, round which they sit upon boughs; and as there is no vent for the smoke besides the door-way, which is very low, except through some crevices which cannot easily be stopped, they are not a little incommoded on that account, and the eyes of some of them are much affected by it.

But to return. In this wigwam, into which I took the liberty to introduce myself, I found only two women, who, upon first seeing a figure they were not accustomed to, and such a figure too as I then made, were struck with astonishment. They were sitting by a fire, to which I approached without any apology. However inclined I might have been to make one, my ignorance of their language made it impossible to attempt it. One of these women appeared to be young, and very handsome for an Indian; the other old, and as frightful as it is possible to conceive any thing in human shape to be. Having stared at me some little time, they both went out; and I, without farther ceremony, sat me down by the fire to warm myself and dry the rags I wore. Yet I cannot say my situation was very easy, as I expected every instant to see two or three men come in and thrust me out, if they did not deal with me in a rougher manner.

Soon after, the two women came in again, having, as I supposed, conferred with the Indian our conductor; and, appearing to be in great good humour, began to chatter and laugh immoderately. Perceiving the wet and cold condition I was in, they seemed to have compassion on me, and the old woman went out and brought some wood, with which she made a good fire; but my hunger being impatient, I could not forbear expressing my desire that they would extend their hospitality a little farther, and bring me something so eat. They soon comprehended my meaning, and the younger beginning to rummage under some pieces of bark that lay in the corner of the wigwam, produced a fine large fish; this they presently put upon the fire to broil, and when it was just warm through, they made a sign for me to eat. They had no need to repeat the invitation; I fell to, and dispatched it in so short a time, that I was in hopes they would comprehend, without further tokens, that I was ready for another; but it was of no consequence, for their stock of eatables was entirely exhausted.

After sitting some time in conference together, in which conversation I could bear no part, the women made some signs to me to lay down and go to sleep, first having strewed some dry boughs upon the ground. I laid myself down, and soon fell fast asleep; and about three or four hours after awaking, I found myself covered with a bit of blanket, made of the down of birds, which the women usually wear about their waist. The young woman, who had carefully covered me, whilst sleeping, with her own blanket, was lying close by me; the old woman lay on the other side of her. The fire was low and almost burnt out; but as soon as they found me awake they renewed it, by putting on more fuel. What I had hitherto eat served only to sharpen my appetite; I could not help, therefore, being earnest with them to get me some more victuals. Having understood my necessities, they talked together some little time; after which getting up, they both went out, taking with them a couple of dogs, which they train to assist them in fishing. After an hour's absence they came in trembling with cold, and their hair streaming with water, and brought two fish, which having broiled, they gave me the largest share, and then we all lay down as before to rest.

In the morning, my curiosity led me to visit the neighbouring wigwams, in which were only one or two men, the rest of the inhabitants were all women and children. I then proceeded to enquire after Captain Cheap and our Indian guide, whom I found in the wigwam they at first occupied: The authority of the cacique had procured the captain no despicable entertainment. We could not learn what business the men, whose wives and children were here left behind, were gone out upon; but as they seldom or never go upon fishing parties (for they have no hunting here) without their wives, who take the most laborious part of this pursuit upon themselves, it is probable they were gone upon some warlike expedition, in which they use bows and arrows sometimes, but always the lance. This weapon they throw with great dexterity and force, and never stir abroad without it.

About this time their return was looked for, a hearing by no means pleasant to me; I was therefore determined to enjoy myself as long as they were absent, and make the most of the good fare I was possessed of, to the pleasure of which I thought a little cleanliness might in some measure contribute; I therefore went to a brook, and taking off my shirt, which might be said to be alive with vermin, set myself about to wash it; which having done as well as I could, and hung on a bush to dry, I heard a bustle about the wigwams, and soon perceived that the women were preparing to depart, having stripped their wigwams of their bark covering, and carried it into their canoes. Putting on, therefore, my shirt just as it was, I hastened to join them, having a great desire of being present at one of their fishing parties.

It was my lot to be put into the canoe with my two patronesses and some others who assisted in rowing; we were in all four canoes. After rowing some time, they gained such an offing as they required, where the water here was about eight or ten fathoms deep, and there lay upon their oars. And now the youngest of the two women, taking a basket in her mouth, jumped overboard, and diving to the bottom, continued under water an amazing time; when she had filled the basket with sea-eggs, she came up to the boat-side, and delivering it so filled to the other women in the boat, they took out the contents and returned it to her. The diver then, after having taken a short time to breathe, went down and up again with the same success, and so several times for the space of half an hour. It seems as if Providence had endued this people with a kind of amphibious nature, as the sea is the only source from whence almost all their subsistence is derived. This element too, being here very boisterous, and falling with a most heavy surf upon a rugged coast, very little, except some seal, is to be got any where but in the quiet bosom of the deep. What occasions this reflection, is the early propensity I had so frequently observed in the children of these savages to this occupation, who, even at the age of three years, might be seen crawling upon their hands and knees among the rocks and breakers, from which they would tumble themselves into the sea without regard to the cold, which is here often intense, and shewing no fear of the noise and roaring of the surf.

This sea-egg is a shell-fish, from which several prickles project in all directions, by means whereof it removes itself from place to place. In it are found four or five yolks, resembling the inner divisions of an orange, which are of a very nutritive quality and excellent flavour.

The water was at this time extremely cold, and when the divers got into the boats, they seemed greatly benumbed; and it is usual with them after this exercise, if they are near enough their wigwams, to run to the fire, to which presenting one side, they rub and chafe it for some time; then turning the other, use it in the same manner till the circulation of the blood is restored. This practice, if it has no worse effect, must occasion their being more susceptible of the impressions of cold than if they waited the gradual advances of their natural warmth in the open air. I leave it to the decision of the gentlemen of the faculty, whether this too hasty approach to the fire may not subject them to a disorder I have observed among them, called the elephantiasis, or swelling of the legs.[118]

[118] There are two very different disorders incident to the human body, which bear the same name, derived from some resemblance they hold with different parts of the animal so well known in the countries to which these disorders are peculiar. That which was first so named is the leprosy, which brings a scurf on the skin not unlike the hide of an elephant. The other affects the patient with such enormous swelling of the legs and feet, that they give the idea of those shapeless pillars which support that creature; and therefore this disease has also been called elephantiasis by the Arabian physicians; who, together with the Malabrians, among whom it is endemial, attribute it to the drinking bad waters, and the too sudden transitions from heat to cold.

The divers having returned to their boats, we continued to row till towards evening, when we landed upon a low point. As soon as the canoes were hauled up, they employed themselves in erecting their wigwams, which they dispatch with great address and quickness. I still enjoyed the protection of my two good Indian women, who made me their guest here as before; they first regaled me with sea-eggs, and then went out upon another kind of fishery by the means of dogs and nets. These dogs are a cur-like looking animal, but very sagacious, and easily trained to this business. Though in appearance an uncomfortable sort of sport, yet they engage in it readily, seem to enjoy it much, and express their eagerness by barking every time they raise their heads above the water to breathe. The net is held by two Indians, who get into the water; then the dogs, taking a large compass, dive after the fish, and drive them into the net; but it is only in particular places that the fish are taken in this manner. At the close of the evening, the women brought in two fish, which served us for supper, and then we reposed ourselves as before. Here we remained all the next day, and the morning after embarked again, and rowed till noon; then landing, we descried the canoes of the Indian men, who had been some time expected from an expedition they had been upon. This was soon to make a great alteration in the situation of my affairs, a presage of which I could read in the melancholy countenance of my young hostess. She endeavoured to express herself in very earnest terms to me, but I had not yet acquired a competent knowledge of the Indian language to understand her.

As soon as the men were landed, she and the old Indian woman went up, not without some marks of dread upon them, to an elderly Indian man, whose remarkably surly and stern countenance was well calculated to raise such sensations in his dependants. He seemed to be a cacique or chief man among them, by the airs of importance he assumed to himself, and the deference paid him by the rest. After some little conference passed between these Indians and our cacique conductor, of which, most probably, the circumstances of our history and the occasion of our coming here might be the chief subject, for they fixed their eyes constantly upon us, they applied themselves to building their wigwams.

I now understood that the two Indian women with whom I had sojourned were wives to this chieftain, though one was young enough to be his daughter; and as far as I could learn, did really stand in the different relations to him both of daughter and wife. It was easy to be perceived that all did not go well between them at this time, either that he was not satisfied with the answers that they returned him to his questions, or that he suspected some misconduct on their side; for presently after breaking out into savage fury, he took the young one up in his arms, and threw her with violence against the stones; but his brutal resentment did not stop here, he beat her afterwards in a cruel manner. I could not see this treatment of my benefactress without the highest concern for her, and rage against the author of it; especially as the natural jealousy of these people gave occasion to think that it was on my account she suffered. I could hardly suppress the first emotions of my resentment, which prompted me to return him his barbarity in his own kind; but besides that this might have drawn upon her fresh marks of his severity, it was neither politic, nor indeed in my power to have done it to any good purpose at this time.

[CHAPTER VI.]

The Cacique's Conduct changes.--Description of the Indian Mode of Bird-fowling.--Their Religion.--Mr Elliot, our Surgeon, dies.--Transactions on our Journey.--Miserable Situation to which we are reduced.

Our cacique now made us understand that we must embark directly in the same canoe which brought us, and return to our companions; and that the Indians we were about to leave would join us in a few days, when we should all set out in a body, in order to proceed to the northward. In our way back nothing very material happened; but upon our arrival, which was the next day, we found Mr Elliot, the surgeon, in a very bad way; his illness had been continually increasing since we left him. Mr Hamilton and Mr Campbell were almost starved, having fared very ill since we left them; a few sea- eggs were all the subsistence they had lived upon, and these procured by the cacique's wife in the manner I mentioned before. This woman was the very reverse of my hostess; and as she found her husband was of so much consequence to us, took upon her with much haughtiness, and treated us as dependants and slaves. He was not more engaging in his carriage towards us; he would give no part of what he had to spare to any but Captain Cheap, whom his interest led him to prefer to the rest, though our wants were often greater. The captain, on his part, contributed to keep us in this abject situation, by approving this distinction the cacique shewed to him. Had he treated us with not quite so much distance, the cacique might have been more regardful of our wants. The little regard and attention which our necessitous condition drew from Captain Cheap, may be imputed likewise, in some measure, to the effects of a mind soured by a series of crosses and disappointments; which, indeed, had operated on us all to a great neglect of each other, and sometimes of ourselves.

We were not suffered to be in the same wigwam with the cacique and his wife, which, if we had had any countenance from Captain Cheap, would not have been refused. What we had made for ourselves was in such a bungling manner, that it scarce deserved the name even of this wretched sort of habitation. But our untoward circumstances now found some relief in the arrival of the Indians we waited for, who brought with them some seal, a small portion of which fell to our share. A night or two after, they sent out some of their young men, who procured us a quantity of a very delicate kind of birds, called shags and cormorants. Their manner of taking these birds resembles something a sport called bat-fowling. They find out their haunts among the rocks and cliffs in the night, when, taking with them torches made of the bark of the birch tree, which is common here, and grows to a very large size, (this bark has a very unctuous qaality, and emits a bright and clear light, and in the northern parts of America is used frequently instead of a candle) they bring the boat's side as near as possible to the rocks, under the roosting-places of these birds, then waving their lights backwards and forwards, the birds are dazzled and confounded so as to fall into the canoe, where they are instantly knocked on the head with a short stick the Indians take with them for that purpose.

Seal are taken in some less-frequented parts of these coasts with great ease; but when their haunts have been two or three times disturbed, they soon learn to provide for their safety, by repairing to the water upon the first alarm. This is the case with them hereabouts; but as they frequently raise their heads above water, either to breathe or look about them, I have seen an Indian at this interval throw his lance with such dexterity, as to strike the animal through both its eyes at a great distance; and it is very seldom that they miss their aim.

As we were wholly unacquainted with these methods of providing food for ourselves, and were without arms and ammunition, we were drove to the utmost straits, and found ourselves rather in worse condition than we had been at any time before; for the Indians, having now nothing to fear from us, we found we had nothing to expect from them upon any other motive. Accordingly, if they ever did relieve us, it was through caprice; for at most times, they would shew themselves unconcerned at our greatest distresses. But the good Indian women, whose friendship I had experienced before, continued, from time to time, their good offices to me. Though I was not suffered to enter their wigwams, they would find opportunities of throwing in my way such scraps as they could secrete from their husbands. The obligation I was under to them on this account is great, as the hazard they ran in conferring these favours was little less than death. The men, unrestrained by any laws or ties of conscience in the management of their own families, exercise a most despotic authority over their wives, whom they consider in the same view they do any other part of their property, and dispose of them accordingly: Even their common treatment of them is cruel; for though the toil and hazard of procuring food lies entirely upon the women, yet they are not suffered to touch any part of it till the husband is satisfied, and then he assigns them their portion, which is generally very scanty, and such as he has not a stomach for himself. This arbitrary proceeding, with respect to their own families, is not peculiar to this people only. I have had occasion to observe it in more instances than this I have mentioned, among many other nations of savages I have since seen.

These Indians are of a middling stature, well set, and very active, and make their way among the rocks with an amazing agility. Their feet, by this kind of exercise, contract a callosity which renders the use of shoes quite unnecessary to them. But before I conclude the few observations I have to make on a people so confined in all their notions and practice, it may be expected I should say something of their religion; but as their gross ignorance is in nothing more conspicuous, and as we found it advisable to keep out of their way when the fits of devotion came upon them, which is rather frantic than religious, the reader can expect very little satisfaction on this head. Accident has sometimes made me unavoidably a spectator of scenes I should have chosen to have withdrawn myself from; and so far I am instructed. As there are no fixed seasons for their religious exercises, the younger people wait till the elders find themselves devoutly disposed, who begin the ceremony by several deep and dismal groans, which rise gradually to a hideous kind of singing, from which they proceed to enthusiasm, and work themselves into a disposition that borders on madness; for, suddenly jumping up, they snatch fire-brands from the fire, put them in their mouths, and run about burning every body they come near; at other times it is a custom with them to wound one another with sharp mussel- shells till they are besmeared with blood. These orgies continue till these who preside in them foam at the mouth, grow faint, are exhausted with fatigue, and dissolve in a profusion of sweat. When the men drop their part in this frenzy, the women take it up, acting over again much the same kind of wild scene, except that they rather outdo the men in shrieks and noise. Our cacique, who had been reclaimed from these abominations by the Spaniards, and just knew the exterior form of crossing himself, pretended to be much offended at these profane ceremonies, and that he would have died sooner than have partaken of them. Among other expressions of his disapprobation, he declared, that whilst the savages solemnized these horrid rites, he never failed to hear strange and uncommon noises in the woods, and to see frightful visions, and assured us that the devil was the chief actor among them upon these occasions.

It might be about the middle of March that we embarked with these Indians. They separated our little company entirely, not putting any two of us together in the same canoe. The oar was my lot, as usual, as also Mr Campbell's; Mr Hamilton could not row, and Captain Cheap was out of the question; our surgeon was more dead than alive at the time, and lay at the bottom of the canoe he was in. The weather coming on too bad for their canoes to keep the sea, we landed again, without making any great progress that day. Here Mr Elliot, our surgeon, died. At our first setting out, he promised the fairest for holding out, being a very strong active young man: He had gone through an infinite deal of fatigue, as Mr Hamilton and he were the best shots amongst us, and whilst our ammunition lasted never spared themselves, and in a great measure provided for the rest; but he died the death many others had done before him, being quite starved. We scraped a hole for him in the sand, and buried him in the best manner we could.

Here I must relate a little anecdote of our Christian cacique. He and his wife had gone off at some distance from the shore in their canoe, when she dived for sea-eggs; but not meeting with great success, they returned a good deal out of humour. A little boy of theirs, about three years old, whom they appeared to be doatingly fond of, watching for his father and mother's return, ran into the surf to meet them: The father handed a basket of sea-eggs to the child, which being too heavy for him to carry, he let it fall; upon which the father jumped out of the canoe, and catching the boy up in his arms, dashed him with the utmost violence against the stones. The poor little creature lay motionless and bleeding, and in that condition was taken up by the mother, but died soon after. She appeared inconsolable for some time, but the brute his father shewed little concern about it.

A day or two after we put to sea again, and crossed the great bay I mentioned we had been to the bottom of, when we first hauled away to the westward. The land here was very low and sandy, with something like the mouth of a river, which discharged itself into the sea, and which had been taken no notice of by us before, as it was so shallow that the Indians were obliged to take every thing out of their canoes, and carry it over the neck of land, and then, haul the boats over into a river which at this part of it was very broad, more resembling a lake than a river. We rowed up it for four or five leagues, and then took into a branch of it, that ran first to the eastward, and then to the northward: Here it became much narrower, and the stream excessively rapid, so that we made but little way, though we worked very hard. At night we landed upon its banks, and had a most uncomfortable lodging, it being a perfect swamp; and we had nothing to cover us, though it rained very hard. The Indians were little better off than we, as there was no wood here to make their wigwams; so that all they could do was to prop up the bark they carry in the bottom of their canoes with their oars, and shelter themselves as well as they could to leeward of it. They, knowing the difficulties that were to be encountered here, had provided themselves with some seal; but we had not the least morsel to eat, after the heavy fatigues of the day, excepting a sort of root we saw some of the Indians make use of, which was very disagreeable to the taste. We laboured all the next day against the stream, and fared as we had done the day before. The next day brought us to the carrying-place. Here was plenty of wood, but nothing to be got for sustenance.

The first thing the Indians did was to take every thing out of their canoes, and after hauling them ashore, they made their wigwams. We passed this night, as generally we had done, under a tree; but what we suffered at this time is not easily to be expressed. I had been three days at the oar without any kind of nourishment but the wretched root I mentioned before. I had no shirt, as mine was rotted off by bits, and we were devoured by vermin. All my clothes consisted of an old short grieko, which is something like a bearskin with a piece of a waistcoat under it, which once had been of red cloth, both which I had on when I was cast away; I had a ragged pair of trowsers, without either shoe or stocking.

The first thing the Indians did in the morning was to take their canoes to pieces; and here, for the information of the reader, it will be necessary to describe the structure of these boats, which are extremely well calculated for the use of these Indians, as they are frequently obliged to carry them over land a long way together, through thick woods, to avoid doubling capes and head-lands, in seas where no open boats could live. They generally consist of five pieces or planks, one for the bottom, and two for each side; and as these people have no iron tools, the labour must be great in hacking a single plank out of a large tree with shells and flints, though with the help of fire. Along the edges of the plank, they make small holes, at about an inch from one to the other, and sew them together with the supplejack or woodbine; but as these holes are not filled up by the substance of the woodbine, their boats would be immediately full of water if they had not a method of preventing it. They do this very effectually by the bark of a tree, which they first steep in water for some time, and then beat it between two stones till it answers the use of oakum, and then chinse each hole so well, that they do not admit of the least water coming through, and are easily taken asunder and put together again. When they have occasion to go over land, as at this time, each man or woman carries a plank, whereas it would be impossible for them to drag a heavy boat entire.

Every body had something to carry except Captain Cheap, and he was obliged to be assisted, or never would have got over this march; for a worse than this I believe never was made. He, with the others, set out some time before me. I waited for two Indians who belonged to the canoe I came in, and who remained to carry over the last of the things from the side we were on. I had a piece of wet heavy canvas which belonged to Captain Cheap, with a bit of stinking seal wrapped in it, (which had been given him that morning by some of the Indians) to carry upon my head, which was a sufficient weight for a strong man in health through such roads, and a grievous burthen to one in my condition.

Our way was through a thick wood, the bottom of which was a mere quagmire, most part of it up to our knees, and often to our middle, and every now and then we had a large tree to get over, for they often lay directly in our road. Besides this, we were continually treading upon the stumps of trees, which were not to be avoided, as they were covered with water; and having neither shoe nor stocking, my feet and legs were frequently torn and wounded. Before I had got half a mile the two Indians had left me, and making the best of my way lest they should be all gone before I got to the other side, I fell off a tree that crossed the road into a very deep swamp, where I very narrowly escaped drowning, by the weight of the burthen I had on my head. It was a long while before I could extricate myself from this difficulty, and when I did, my strength was quite exhausted. I sat down under a tree, and there gave way to melancholy reflections. However, as I was sensible these reflections would answer no end, they did not last long. I got up, and marking a great tree, I then deposited my load, not being able to carry it any farther, and set out to join my company.

It was some hours before I reached my companions. I found them sitting under a tree, and sat myself down by them without speaking a word; nor did they speak to me, as I remember, for some time, when Captain Cheap breaking silence, began to ask after the seal and piece of canvas. I told him the disaster I had met with, which he might have easily guessed by the condition the rags I had on were in, as well as having my feet and ancles cut to pieces; but, instead of compassion for my sufferings, I heard nothing but grumbling from every one for the irreparable loss they had sustained by me. I made no answer, but after resting myself a little, I got up and struck into the wood, and walked back at least five miles to the tree I had marked, and returned just time enough to deliver it before my companions embarked, with the Indians, upon a great lake, the opposite part of which seemed to wash the foot of the Cordilleras. I wanted to embark with them, but was given to understand I was to wait for some other Indians that were to follow them. I knew not where these Indians were to come from: I was left alone upon the beach, and night was at hand. They left me not even a morsel of the stinking seal that I had suffered so much about.

I kept my eyes upon the boats as long as I could distinguish them, and then returned into the wood, and sat myself down upon the root of a tree, having eat nothing the whole day but the stem of a plant which resembles that of an artichoke, which is of a juicy consistence and acid taste. Quite worn out with fatigue, I soon fell asleep; and awaking before day, I thought I heard some voices at no great distance from me. As the day appeared, looking further into the wood, I perceived a wigwam, and immediately made towards it; but the reception I met with was not at all agreeable, for stooping to get into it, I presently received two or three hearty kicks in my face, and at the same time heard the sound of voices, seemingly in anger, which made me retire, and wait at the foot of a tree, where I remained till an old woman peeped out and made signs to me to draw near. I obeyed very readily, and went into the wigwam. In it were three men and two women; one young man seemed to have great respect shewn to him by the rest, though he was the most miserable object I ever saw. He was a perfect skeleton, and covered with sores from head to foot. I was happy to sit a moment by their fire, as I was quite benumbed with cold. The old woman took out a piece of seal, holding one part of it between her feet, and the other end in her teeth, and then cut off some thin slices with a sharp shell, and distributed them about to the other Indians. She then put a bit on the fire, taking a piece of fat in her mouth, which she kept chewing, every now and then spirting some of it on the piece that was warming upon the fire; for they never do more with it than warm it through. When it was ready, she gave me a little bit, which I swallowed whole, being almost starved.

As these Indians were all strangers to me, I did not know which way they were going; and indeed it was now become quite indifferent to me which way I went, whether to the northward or southward, so that they would but take me with them and give me something to eat. However, to make them comprehend me, I pointed first to the southward, and after to the lake, and I soon understood they were going to the northward. They all went out together, excepting the sick Indian, and took up the planks of the canoes, which lay near the wigwam, and carried them upon the beach, and presently put it together, and getting every thing into it, they put me to the oar. We rowed across the lake to the mouth of a very rapid river, where we put ashore for that night, not daring to get any way down in the dark, as it required the greatest skill, even in the day, to avoid running foul of the stumps and roots of trees, of which this river was full. I passed a melancholy night, as they would not suffer me to come near the wigwam they had made; nor had they given me the least bit of any one thing to eat since we embarked.

In the morning we set off again. The weather proved extremely bad the whole day. We went down the river at an amazing rate, and just before night they put ashore upon a stony beach. They hauled the canoe up, and all disappeared in a moment, and I was left quite alone; it rained violently, and was very dark. I thought it was as well to lay down upon the beach, half side in water, as to get into a swamp under a dropping tree. In this dismal situation I fell asleep, and awaked three or four hours after in such agonies with the cramp, that I thought I must die upon the spot. I attempted several times to raise myself upon my legs, but could not. At last I made shift to get upon my knees, and looking towards the wood, I saw a great fire at some distance from me. I was a long time crawling to it, and when I reached it, I threw myself almost into it, in hopes of finding some relief from the pain I suffered. This intrusion gave great offence to the Indians, who immediately got up, kicking and beating me till they drove me to some distance from it; however, I contrived a little after to place myself so as to receive some warmth from it, by which I got rid of the cramp.

In the morning we left this place, and were soon after out of the river. Being now at sea again, the Indians intended putting ashore at the first convenient place to look for shell-fish, their stock of provisions having been quite exhausted for some time. At low water we landed upon a spot that seemed to promise well, and here we found plenty of limpets. Though at this time starving, I did not attempt to eat one, lest I should lose a moment in gathering them, not knowing how soon the Indians might be going again. I had almost filled my hat when I saw them returning to the canoe. I made what haste I could to her, for I believe they would have made no conscience of leaving me behind. I sat down to my oar again, placing my hat close to me, every now and then eating a limpet. The Indians were employed the same way, when one of them seeing me throw the shells overboard, spoke to the rest in a violent passion, and getting up, fell upon me, and seizing me by an old ragged handkerchief I had about my neck, almost throttled me; whilst another took me by the legs, and was going to throw me overboard if the old woman had not prevented, them.

I was all this time entirely ignorant by what means I had given offence, till I observed that the Indians, after eating the limpets, carefully put the shells in a heap at the bottom, of the canoe. I then concluded there was some superstition about throwing these shells into the sea, my ignorance of which had very nearly cost me my life. I was resolved to eat no more limpets till we landed, which we did some time after upon an island. I then took notice that the Indians brought all their shells ashore, and laid them above high-water mark. Here, as I was going to eat a large bunch of berries I had gathered from a tree, for they looked very tempting, one of the Indians snatched them out of my hand and threw them away, making me to understand that they were poisonous. Thus, in all probability, did these people now save my life, who, a few hours before, were going to take it from me for throwing away a shell.

In two days after I joined my companions again, but don't remember that there was the least joy shewn on either side at meeting. At this place was a very large canoe belonging to our guide, which would have required at least six men to the oar to have made any kind of expedition; instead of that, there was only Campbell and myself, besides the Indian, his companion or servant, to row, the cacique himself never touching an oar, but sitting, with his wife all the time much at his ease. Mr Hamilton continued in the same canoe he had been in all along, and which still was to keep us company some way further, though many of the others had left us. This was dreadful hard work to such poor starved wretches as we were, to be slaving at the oar all day long in such a heavy boat; and this inhuman fellow would never give us a scrap to eat, excepting when he took so much seal that he could not contrive to carry it all away with him, which happened very seldom.

After working like galley slaves all day, towards night, when we landed, instead of taking any rest, Mr Campbell and I were sometimes obliged to go miles along shore to get a few shell-fish; and just as we have made a little fire in order to dress them, he has commanded us into the boat again, and kept us rowing the whole night without ever landing. It is impossible for me to describe the miserable state we were reduced to: Our bodies were so emaciated, that we hardly appeared the figures of men.

It has often happened to me in the coldest night, both in hail and snow, where we had nothing but an open beach to lay down upon, in order to procure a little rest, that I have been obliged to pull off the few rags I had on, as it was impossible to get a moment's sleep with them on for the vermin that swarmed about them, though I used as often as I had time, to take my clothes off, and putting them upon a large stone, beat them with another, in hopes of killing hundreds at once, for it was endless work to pick them off. What we suffered from this was ten times worse even than hunger. But we were clean in comparison to Captain Cheap, for I could compare his body to nothing but an ant-hill, with thousands of those insects crawling over it; for he was now past attempting to rid himself in the least from this torment, as he had quite lost himself, not recollecting our names that were about him, or even his own. His beard was as long as a hermit's; that and his face being covered with train-oil and dirt, from having long accustomed himself to sleep upon a bag, by the way of pillow, in which he kept the pieces of stinking seal. This prudent method he took to prevent our getting at it whilst he slept. His legs were as big as millposts, though his body appeared to be nothing but skin and bone.

One day we fell in with about forty Indians, who came down to the beach we landed on, curiously painted. Our cacique seemed to understand but little of their language, and it sounded to us very different from what we had heard before. However, they made us comprehend that a ship had been upon the coast not far from where we then were, and that she had a red flag: This we understood some time after to have been the Anne pink, whose adventures are particularly related in Lord Anson's Voyage; and we passed through the very harbour she had lain in.

As there was but one small canoe that intended to accompany us any longer, and that in which Mr Hamilton had been to this time intended to proceed no further to the northward, our cacique proposed to him to come into our canoe, which he refused, as the insolence of this fellow was to him insupportable; he therefore rather chose to remain where he was, till chance should throw in his way some other means of getting forward; so here we left him, and it was some months before we saw him again.

[CHAPTER VII.]

We land on the Island of Chiloe.--To our great Joy we at length discover Something having the Appearance of a House.--Kindness of the Natives.--We are delivered to the Custody of a Spanish Guard.--Transactions with the Spanish Residents.--Arrival at Chaco.--Manners of the Inhabitants.

We now got on, by very slow degrees, to the northward; and as the difficulties and hardships we daily went through would only be a repetition of those already mentioned, I shall say no more, but that at last we reached an island about thirty leagues to the southward of Chiloe. Here we remained two days for a favourable opportunity to cross the bay, the very thoughts of which seemed to frighten our cacique out of his senses; and indeed there was great reason for his apprehensions, for there ran a most dreadful hollow sea, dangerous indeed for any open boat whatever, but a thousand times more for such a crazy vessel as we were in. He at length mustered up resolution enough to attempt it, first having crossed himself for an hour together, and made a kind of lug-sail out of the bits of blankets they wore about them, sewed together with split supple-jacks. We then put off, and a terrible passage we had. The bottom plank of the canoe was split, which opened upon every sea; and the water continually rushing over the gunnel, I may say that we were in a manner full the whole way over, though all hands were employed in bailing, without ceasing a moment.

As we drew near the shore, the cacique was eager to land, having been terrified to that degree with this run, that if it had not been for us, every soul must have perished; for he had very near got in amongst the breakers, where the sea drove with such violence upon the rocks, that not even an Indian could have escaped, especially as it was in the night. We kept off till we got into smooth water, and landed upon the island of Chiloe, though in a part of it that was not inhabited. Here we staid all the next day, in a very heavy snow, to recover ourselves a little after our fatigue; but the cold was so excessive, having neither shoe nor stocking, we thought we should have lost our feet; and Captain Cheap was so ill, that if he had had but a few leagues further to have gone without relief, he could not have held out. It pleased God now that our sufferings, in a great measure, were drawing to an end.

What things our cacique had brought with him from the wreck, he here buried under ground, in order to conceal them from the Spaniards, who would not have left him a rusty nail if they had known of it. Towards evening we set off again; and about nine the same night, to our great joy, we observed something that had the appearance of a house, It belonged to an acquaintance of our cacique; and as he was possessed of my fowling-piece, and we had preserved about one charge of powder, he made us load it for him, and desired we would shew him how to discharge it; upon which, standing up, and holding his head from it as far as possible, he fired, and fell back into the bottom of the canoe. The Indians belonging to the house, not in the least used to fire-arms, ran out and hid themselves in the woods. But after some time, one of them bolder than the rest, got upon a hill and hollowed to us, asking who and what we were. Our cacique now made himself known, and they presently came down to the boat, bringing with them some fish and plenty of potatoes. This was the most comfortable meal we had made for many long months; and as soon as this was over, we rowed about two miles farther to a little village, where we landed. Here our cacique presently awaked all the inhabitants by the noise he made, and obliged one of them to open his door to us, and immediately to make a large fire, for the weather was very severe, this being the month of June, the depth of winter in this part of the world. The Indians now flocked thick about us, and seemed to have great compassion for us, as our cacique related to them what part be knew of our history. They knew not what countrymen we were, nor could our guide inform them; for he had often asked us if we were French, Dutch, or English, the only nations he had ever heard of besides the Spaniards. We always answered we were from Grande Bretagne, which he could make nothing of; for we were afraid, if he knew us to be English, as he had heard that nation was at war with the Spaniards, he never would have conducted us to Chiloe.

These good-natured compassionate creatures seemed to vie with each other who should take the most care of us. They made a bed of sheep-skins close to the fire for Captain Cheap, and laid him upon it; and indeed, had it not been for the kind assistance he now met with, he could not have survived three days longer. Though it was now about midnight, they went out and killed a sheep, of which they made broth, and baked a large cake of barley- meal. Any body may imagine what a treat this was to wretches who had not tasted a bit of bread, or any wholesome diet, for such a length of time. After we could eat no longer, we went to sleep about the fire, which the Indians took care to keep up. In the morning, the women came from far and near, each bringing with her something. Almost every one had a pipkin in her hand, containing either fowls or mutton made into broth, potatoes, eggs, or other eatables. We fell to work as if we had eat nothing in the night, and employed ourselves so for the best part of the day.

In the evening, the men filled our house, bringing with them some jars of a liquor they called chica, made of barley-meal, and not very unlike our oat- ale in taste, which will intoxicate those who drink a sufficient quantity of it, for a little has no effect. As soon as the drink was out, a fresh supply of victuals was brought in; and in this manner we passed the whole time we remained with these hospitable Indians. They are a strong well-made people, extremely well-featured, both men and women, and vastly neat in their persons. The men's dress is called by them a puncho, which is a square piece of cloth, generally in stripes of different colours, with a slit in the middle of it, wide enough to let their heads through, so that it hangs on their shoulders, half of it falling before and the other behind them: Under this they wear a short kind of flannel shirt without sleeves or neck. They have wide-knee'd breeches, something like the Dutch seamen, and on their legs a sort of knit buskins without any feet to them, but never any shoes. Their hair is always combed very smooth, and tied very tight up in a great bunch close to the neck; some wear a very neat hat of their own making, and others go without. The women wear a shift like the men's shirts, without sleeves, and over it a square piece of cloth, which they fasten before with a large silver pin, and a petticoat of different stripes. They take as much care of their hair as the men; and both have always a kind of fillet bound very tight about the fore-head, and made fast behind. In short, these people are as cleanly as the several savage nations we had met with before were beastly.

Upon our first coming here, they had dispatched a messenger to the Spanish corregidore at Castro, a town a considerable distance from hence, to inform him of our arrival. At the end of three days, this man returned with an order to the chief caciques of these Indians we were amongst, to carry us directly to a certain place, where there would be a party of soldiers to receive us. These poor people now seemed to be under great concern for us, hearing by the messenger the preparations that were making to receive us; for they stand in vast dread of the Spanish soldiery. They were very desirous of knowing what countrymen we were. We told them we were English, and at that time at war with the Spaniards, upon which they appeared fonder of us than ever; and I verily believe, if they durst, would have concealed us amongst them, lest we should come to any harm. They are so far from being in the Spanish interest, that they detest the very name of a Spaniard. And, indeed, I am not surprised at it, for they are kept under such subjection, and such a laborious slavery, by mere dint of hard usage and punishments, that it appears to me the most absurd thing in the world that the Spaniards should rely upon these people for assistance upon any emergency.

We embarked in the evening, and it was night before we got to the place where we were to be delivered up to the Spanish guard. We were met by three or four officers and a number of soldiers, all with their spados drawn, who surrounded us as if they had the most formidable enemy to take charge of, instead of three poor helpless wretches, who, notwithstanding the good living we had met with amongst these kind Indians, could hardly support ourselves. They carried us to the top of a hill, and there put us under a shed, for it consisted of a thatched roof without any sides or walls, being quite open; and here we were to lie upon the cold ground. All sorts of people now came to stare at us as a sight; but the Indian women never came empty-handed; they always brought with them either fowls, mutton, or some kind of provision to us, so that we lived well enough. However, we found a very sensible difference between the treatment we had met with from the Indians and what we now experienced from the Spaniards. With the former, we were quite at liberty to do as we pleased; but here, if we only went ten yards to attempt at getting rid of some of the vermin that devoured us, we had two soldiers with drawn spados to attend us.

About the third day, a Jesuit from Castro came to see us, not from a motive of compassion, but from a report spread by our Indian cacique, that we had some things of great value about us. Having by chance seen Captain Cheap pull out a gold repeating watch, the first thing the good father did was to lug out of his pocket a bottle of brandy and give us a dram, in order to open our hearts. He then came roundly to the point, asking us if we had saved no watches or rings. Captain Cheap declared he had nothing, never suspecting that the Indian had seen his watch, having, as he thought, always taken great care to conceal it from him; but knowing that Campbell had a silver watch, which had been the property of our surgeon, he desired him to make it a present to the Jesuit, telling him at the same time, that as these people had great power and authority, it might be of service to us hereafter. This Campbell very unwillingly did, and received from the father, not long after, a pitiful present, not a quarter part of the value of the rim of the watch. We understood afterwards that this had come to the governor's ears, who was highly offended at it, as thinking that if any thing of that sort had been to be had, it was his due, and did not spare the Jesuits in the least upon the occasion.

Soon after this, the officer of the guard informed us there was an order come to carry us to Castro. In the evening, we were conducted to the water- side, and put into a large periago, and there were several more to attend us, full of soldiers. About eight o'clock at night we were off the town. Their boats all laid upon their oars, and there was a great deal of ceremony used in hailing and asking for the keys, as if it had been a regular fortification. After some time, we landed, but could see neither gates nor walk, nor any thing that had the appearance of a garrison. As we walked up a steep hill into the town, the way was lined with men, who had broomsticks upon their shoulders instead of muskets, and a lighted match in their hands. When we came to the corregidore's house, we found it full of people. He was an old man, very tall, with a long cloak on, a tye-wig without any curl, and a spado of immense length by his aide. He received us in great state and form; but as we had no interpreter, we understood little or nothing of the questions he asked us. He ordered a table to be spread for us with cold ham and fowls, which we three only sat down to, and in a short time dispatched more than ten men with common appetites would have done. It is amazing, that our eating to that excess we had done, from the time we first got among these kind Indians, had not killed us; we were never satisfied, and used to take all opportunities for some months after, of filling our pockets when we were not seen, that we might get up two or three times in the night to cram ourselves. Captain Cheap used to declare, that he was quite ashamed of himself.

After supper, the corregidore carried us to the Jesuits college, attended by the soldiers and all the rabble of the town. This was intended at present for our prison, till orders were received from the governor, who resided at Chaco, above thirty leagues from this place. When we got to the college, the corregidore desired the father provincial, as they stiled him, or head of the Jesuits here, to find out what religion we were of, or whether we had any or not. He then retired, the gates were shut, and we were conducted to a cell. We found in it something like beds spread on the floor, and an old ragged shirt apiece, but clean, which was of infinite service to us; nor did eating at first give me half the satisfaction this treasure of an old shirt did. Though this college was large, there were but four Jesuits in it, nor were there any more of that order upon the island.

In the morning, Captain Cheap was sent for by the father provincial: Their conversation was carried on in Latin, perhaps not the best on either side; however, they made shift to understand one another. When he returned, he told us the good fathers were still harping upon what things of value we might have saved and concealed about us; and that if we had any thing of that sort, we could not do better than let them have it. Religion seemed to be quite out of the question at present; but a day or two after, the corregidore being informed that we were heretics, he desired these Jesuits would convert us; but one of them told him it was a mere joke to attempt it, as we could have no inducement upon that island to change our religion; but that when we got to Chili, in such a delightful country as that was, where there was nothing but diversions and amusements, we should be converted fast enough. We kept close to our cell till the bell rang for dinner, when we were conducted into a hall, where there was one table for the fathers, and another for us. After a very long Latin prayer, we sat down and eat what was put before us, without a single word passing at either table. As soon as we had finished, there was another long prayer, which, however, did not appear so tedious as the first, and then we retired to our cell again. In this manner we passed eight days without ever stirring out, all which time one might have imagined one's self out of the world; for excepting the bell for dinner, a silence reigned throughout the whole, as if the place had been uninhabited.

A little before dark, on the eighth evening, we heard a violent knocking at the gate, which was no sooner opened than there entered a young officer booted and spurred, who acquainted the fathers that he was sent by the governor to conduct us to Chaco. This young man was the governor's son, by which means he obtained a command next in authority, upon this island, to his father. He ought to have been kept at school, for he was a vain empty coxcomb, much disliked by the people upon the island. After taking leave of the Jesuits, who, I imagine, were not sorry to be rid of us, after finding their expectations baulked, we set out, having about thirty soldiers on horseback to attend us. We rode about eight miles that night, when we came to an Estancia, or farm-house, belonging to an old lady, who had two handsome daughters. Here we were very well entertained, and the good old lady seemed to have great compassion on us. She asked the governor's son if he thought his father would have any objection to my passing a month with her at her farm. As she was a person of rank in this island, he said he would acquaint his father with her request, and made no doubt but he would grant it. I observed our soldiers, when they came into the house, had none of them any shoes on, but wore buskins, like the Indians, without any feet to them. They all had monstrous great spurs, some of silver and others of copper, which made a rattling when they walked, like chains. They were all stout strong-looking men, as the Spaniards, natives of the island, in general are. After a good supper, we had sheep-skins laid near the fire for us to sleep on.

Early in the morning we mounted again, and after riding some miles across the country, we came to the water-side, where we found several periagoes waiting for us, with some officers in them. Most of the soldiers dismounted and embarked with us, few only being sent round with the horses. It was three days before we arrived at Chaco, as the tides between this island and the main are so rapid that no boat can stem them. The same precaution was taken here as at Castro; we passed through a whole lane of soldiers, armed as I mentioned those to have been before, excepting a few who really had match-locks, the only fire-arms they have here. The soldiers, upon our journey, had given a pompous account of el Palacio del Rey, or the king's palace, as they stiled the governor's house, and therefore we expected to see something very magnificent; but it was nothing better than a large thatched barn, partitioned off into several rooms. The governor was sitting at a large table covered with a piece of red serge, having all the principal officers about him. After some time, he made us sit down, attempting to converse with us by his linguist, who was a stupid old fellow, that could neither talk English nor Spanish, but said he was born in England, had resided above forty years in that country, and having formerly been a buccaneer, was taken by the Spaniards near Panama. The governor kept us to supper, and then we were conducted across the court to our apartment, which was a place that had served to keep the fire-wood for the governor's kitchen; however, as it was dry over head, we thought ourselves extremely well lodged. There was a soldier placed at the door with a drawn spado in his hand, to prevent our stirring out, which was quite unnecessary, as we knew not where to go if we had been at liberty. One of these soldiers took a fancy to my ragged grieko, which had still some thousands about it, and in exchange gave me an old poncho, the sort of garment with a hole in the middle to put one's head through, as above related to be worn by the Indians; and for the little bit of my waistcoat that remained, he gave me a pair of breeches. I now should have thought myself very handsomely equipped, if I had had but another shirt.

The next day, about noon, the governor sent for us, and we dined at his table, after which we returned to our lodging, where we were never alone, for every body was curious to see us. We passed about a week in this manner, when the centinel was taken off, and we were allowed to look about us a little, though not to go out of the palace, as they were pleased to call it. We dined every day with the governor, but were not very fond of his fast days, which succeeded each other too quickly. I contrived to make friends with his steward and cook, by which means I always carried my pockets full to my apartment, where I passed my time very agreeably. Soon after, we had leave to walk about the town, or go wherever we pleased. Every house was open to us; and though it was but an hour after we had dined, they always spread a table, thinking we never could eat enough after what we had suffered; and we were much of the same opinion. They are, in general, a charitable, good sort of people, but very ignorant, and governed by their priests, who make them believe just what they please.

The Indian language is chiefly spoken here, even by the Spaniards one amongst another; and they say they think it a finer language than their own. The women have fine complexions, and many of them are very handsome; they have good voices, and can strum a little upon the guitar; but they have an ugly custom of smoking tobacco, which is a very scarce commodity here, and therefore is looked upon as a great treat when they meet at one another's houses. The lady of the house comes in with a large wooden pipe crammed with tobacco, and after taking two or three hearty whiffs, she holds her head under her cloak lest any of the smoke should escape, and then swallows it; some time after, you see it coming out of her nose and ears. She then hands the pipe to the next lady, who does the same, till it has gone through the whole company. Their houses are but very mean, as will be easily imagined by what I have said of the governor's. They make their fire in the middle of their rooms, but have no chimneys; there is a small hole at each end of the roof to let the smoke out.

It is only the better sort of people that eat bread made of wheat, as they grow but very little here, and they have no mills to grind it; but then they have great plenty of the finest potatoes in the world: These are always roasted in the ashes, then scraped, and served up at meals instead of bread. They breed abundance of swine, as they supply both Chili and Peru with hams. They are in no want of sheep, but are not overstocked with cows, owing, in a great measure, to their own indolence in not clearing away the woods, which if they would be at the pains to do, they might have sufficient pasture. Their trade consists in hams, hogs-lard, which is used throughout all South America instead of butter; cedar-plank, which the Indians are continually employed in cutting quite to the foot of the Cordilleras, little carved boxes, which the Spanish ladies use to put their work in, carpets, quilts, and punchos neatly embroidered all round; for these, both in Chili and Peru, are used by the people of the first fashion, as well as the inferior sort, by way of riding-dress, and are esteemed to be much more convenient for a horseman than any kind of coat whatever.

They have what they call an annual ship from Lima, as they never expect more than one in the year; though sometimes it happens that two have come, and at other times they have been two or three years without any. When this happens, they are greatly distressed, as this ship brings them baize, cloth, linens, hats, ribbons, tobacco, sugar, brandy, and wine, but this latter article is chiefly for the use of the churches: Matte, an herb from Paraguay, used over all South America instead of tea, is also a necessary article. This ship's cargo is chiefly consigned to the Jesuits, who have more Indians employed for them than all the rest of the inhabitants together, and of course engross almost the whole trade. There is no money current in this island. If any person wants a few yards of linen, a little sugar, tobacco, or any other thing brought from Peru, he gives so many cedar-planks, hams, or punchos, in exchange. Some time after we had been here, a snow arrived in the harbour from Lima, which occasioned great joy amongst the inhabitants, as they had no ship the year before, from the alarm Lord Anson had given upon the coast.

This was not the annual vessel, but one of those that I mentioned before which come unexpectedly. The captain of her was an old man, well known upon the island, who had traded here once in two or three years for more than thirty years past. He had a remarkably large head, and therefore was commonly known by a nick-name they had given him of Cabuco de Toro, or Bull's-head. He had not been here a week, before he came to the governor, and told him, with a most melancholy countenance, that he had not slept a wink since he came into the harbour, as the governor was pleased to allow three English prisoners liberty to walk about instead of confining them, and that he expected every moment they would board his vessel and carry her away: This he said when he had above thirty hands aboard. The governor assured him he would be answerable for us, and that he might sleep in quiet; though at the same time he could not help laughing at the man, as all the people in the town did. These assurances did not satisfy the captain; he used the utmost dispatch in disposing of his cargo, and put to sea again, not thinking himself safe till he had lost sight of the island. It was about three months after this that Mr Hamilton was brought in by a party that the governor had sent to the southward on purpose to fetch him. He was in a wretched condition upon his first arrival, but soon recovered with the good living he found here.

It is usual for the governor to make a tour every year through the several districts belonging to his government: On this occasion he took us with him. The first place he visited was Carelmapo, on the main, and from thence to Castro. At these places he holds a kind of court, all the chief caciques meeting him, and informing him of what has passed since his last visit, and receiving fresh orders for the year to come. At Castro we had the same liberty we enjoyed at Chaco, and visited every body. It seemed they had forgot all the ceremony used upon our first landing here, which was with an intent to make us believe it was strongly fortified; for now they let us see plainly that they had neither fort nor gun. At Chaco they had a little earthen fort, with a small ditch palisadoed round it, and a few old honeycombed guns without carriages, and which do not defend the harbour in the least. Whilst we were at Castro, the old lady (at whose house we lay the first night upon leaving the Jesuits college) sent to the governor, and begged I might be allowed to come to her for a few weeks; this was granted, and accordingly I went and passed about three weeks with her very happily, as she seemed to be as fond of me as if I had been her own son. She was very unwilling to part with me again, but as the governor was soon to return to Chaca, he sent for me, and I left my benefactress with regret.

[CHAPTER VIII.]

Adventure with the Niece of an old Priest at Castro.--Superstition of the People.--The Lima Ship arrives, in which we depart for Valparaiso, January 1743.--Arrival at and Treatment there.--Journey to Chili.--Arrival at St Jago.--Generous Conduct of a Scotch Physician.--Description of the City and of the People.

Amongst the houses we visited at Castro, there was one belonging to an old priest, who was esteemed one of the richest persons upon the island. He had a niece, of whom he was extremely fond, and who was to inherit all he possessed. He had taken a great deal of pains with her education, and she was reckoned one of the most accomplished young ladies of Chiloe. Her person was good, though she could not be called a regular beauty. This young lady did me the honour to take more notice of me than I deserved, and proposed to her uncle to convert me, and afterwards begged his consent to marry me. As the old man doated upon her, he readily agreed to it; and accordingly, on the next visit I made him, acquainted me with the young lady's proposal, and his approbation of it, taking me at the same time into a room where there were several chests and boxes, which he unlocked, first shewing me what a number of fine clothes his niece had, and then his own wardrobe, which he said should be mine at his death. Amongst other things, he produced a piece of linen, which he said should immediately be made up into shirts for me. I own this last article was a great temptation to me; however, I had the resolution to withstand it, and made the best excuses I could for not accepting of the honour they intended me; for by this time I could speak Spanish well enough to make myself understood.

Amongst other Indians who had come to meet the governor here, there were some caciques of those Indians who had treated us so kindly at our first landing upon Chiloe. One of these, a young man, had been guilty of some offence, and was put in irons, and threatened to be more severely punished. We could not learn his crime, or whether the governor did not do it in a great measure to shew us his power over these Indian chiefs; however, we were under great concern for this young man, who had been extremely kind to us, and begged Captain Cheap to intercede with the governor for him. This he did, and the cacique was released; the governor acquainted him at the same time, with great warmth, that it was to us only he owed it, or otherwise he would have made a severe example of him. The young man seemed to have been in no dread of farther punishment, as I believe he felt all a man could do from the indignity of being put in irons in the public square, before all his brother caciques and many hundreds of other Indians. I thought this was not a very politic step of the governor, as the cacique came after to Captain Cheap to thank him for his goodness, and in all probability would remember the English for some time after; and not only he, but all the other caciques who had been witnesses of it, and who seemed to feel, if possible, even more than the young man himself did.

We now returned to Chaco, and the governor told us, when the annual ship came, which they expected in December, we should be sent in her to Chili. We felt several earthquakes while we were here. One day, as I happened to be upon a visit at a house where I was very well acquainted, an Indian came in, who lived at many leagues distance from this town, and who had made this journey in order to purchase some little trifles he wanted; amongst other things, he had bought some prints of saints. Very proud of these, he produced them, and put them into the hands of the women, who very devoutly first crossed themselves with them, and afterwards kissed them; then gave them to me, saying at the same time, they supposed such a heretic as I was would refuse to kiss them. They were right in their conjectures; I returned them to the Indian without going through that ceremony. At that very instant there happened a violent shock of an earthquake, which they imputed entirely to the anger of the saints; and all quitted the house as fast as they could, lest it should fall upon their heads. For my part, I made the best of my way home for fear of being knocked on the head when out of the house by the rabble, who looked on me as the cause of all this mischief, and did not return to that house again till I thought this affair was forgotten.

Here is a very good harbour; but the entrance is very dangerous for those who are unacquainted with it, as the tides are so extremely rapid, and there are sunken rocks in the midchannel. The island is above seventy leagues round, and the body of it lies in about 40 deg. 20 min. south, and is the most southern settlement the Spaniards have in these seas. Their summer is of no long duration, and most of the year round they have hard gales of wind and much rain. Opposite the island, upon the Cordilleras, there is a volcano, which at times burns with great fury, and is subject to violent eruptions. One of these alarmed the whole island whilst we were there; it sounded in the night like great guns. In the morning, the governor mounted his horse, and rode backwards and forwards from his house to the earthen fort, saying it was the English coming in, but that he would give them a warm reception; meaning, I suppose, that he would have left them a good fire in his house, for I am certain he would soon have been in the woods if he had seen any thing like an English ship coming in.

Women of the first fashion here seldom wear shoes or stockings in the house, but only keep them to wear upon particular occasions. I have often seen them coming to the church, which stood opposite to the governor's house, bare-legged, walking through mud and water, and at the church-door put on their shoes and stockings, and pull them off again when they came out. Though they are in general handsome, and have good complexions, yet many of them paint in so ridiculous a manner, that it is impossible to help laughing in their faces when you see them.

The governor we found here was a native of Chili. The government, which is appointed by that presidency, is for three years, which appears to be a long banishment to them, as their appointments are but small, though they make the most of it. The towns of Castro and Chaco consist only of scattered houses, without a regular street, though both have their places or squares, as almost all Spanish towns have. Chaco is very thinly inhabited, excepting at the time the Lima ship arrives; then they flock thither from all parts of the island to purchase what little matters they want, and as soon as that is done, retire to their estancias or farms.

It was about the middle of December this ship came in, and the second of January, 1742-3, we embarked on board of her. She was bound to Valparaiso. We got out to sea with some difficulty, having been driven by the strength of the tide very near those sunken rocks mentioned before. We found a great sea without; and as the ship was as deep as any laden collier, her decks were continually well washed. She was a fine vessel, of about two hundred and fifty-tons. The timber the ships of this country are built of is excellent, as they last a prodigious time; for they assured us that the vessel we were then in had been built above forty years. The captain was a Spaniard, and knew not the least of sea affairs; the second captain, or master, the boatswain, and his mate, were all three Frenchmen, and very good seamen; the pilot was a Mulatto, and all the rest of the crew were Indians and negroes. The latter were all slaves and stout fellows, but never suffered to go aloft, lest they should fall overboard, and the owners lose so much money by it. The Indians were active, brisk men, and very good seamen for that climate. We had on board the head of the Jesuits as passenger. He and Captain Cheap were admitted into the great cabin, and messed with the captain and his chaplain. As for us, we were obliged to rough it the whole passage, that is, when we were tired we lay down upon the quarter-deck in the open air, and slept as well as we could; but that was nothing to us, who had been used to fare so much worse. We lived well, eating with the master and boatswain, who always had their meals upon the quarter-deck, and drank brandy at them as we do small-beer, and all the rest of the day were smoking segars.

The fifth day we made the land four or five leagues to the southward of Valparaiso, and soon after falling calm, a great western swell hurried us in very fast towards the shore. We dropped the lead several times, but had such deep water we could not anchor. They were all much alarmed when the Jesuit came out of the cabin for the first time, having been sea-sick the whole passage. As soon as he was informed of the danger, he went back into the cabin and brought out the image of some saint, which he desired might be hung up in the mizen-shrouds; which being done, he kept threatening it, that if we had not a breeze of wind soon, he would certainly throw it overboard. Soon after, we had a little wind from off the land, when the Jesuit carried the image back with an air of great triumph, saying he was certain that we should not be without wind long, though he had given himself over for lost some time before it came. Next morning we anchored in the port of Valparaiso. In that part which is opposite to the fort, ships lay so near the land, that they have generally three anchors ashore, as there is eight or ten fathom close to it; and the flaws come off the hills with such violence, that if it was not for this method of securing them they would be blown out. This is only in summer-time, for in the winter months no ships ever attempt to come in here; the northerly winds then prevail, and drive in such a sea that they must soon be ashore.

The Spanish captain waited upon the governor of the fort, and informed him that he had four English prisoners on board. We were ordered ashore in the afternoon, and were received as we got upon the beach by a file of soldiers with their bayonets fixed, who surrounded us, and then marched up to the fort, attended by a numerous mob. We were carried before the governor, whose house was full of officers. He was blind, asked a few questions, and then spoke of nothing but the strength of the garrison he commanded, and desired to know if we had observed that all the lower battery was brass guns. We were immediately after, by his order, put into the condemned hole. There was nothing but four bare walls, excepting a heap of lime that filled one third of it, and made the place swarm with fleas in such a manner that we were presently covered with them. Some of Admiral Pizarro's soldiers were here in garrison that had been landed from his ships at Buenos Ayres, as he could not get round Cape Horn. A centinel's box was placed at our door, and we had always a soldier with his bayonet fixed to prevent our stirring out. The curiosity of the people was such, that our prison was continually full from morning till night, by which the soldiers made a pretty penny, as they took money from every person for the sight.

In a few days, Captain Cheap and Mr Hamilton were ordered up to St Jago, as they were known to be officers by having saved their commissions; but Mr Campbell and I were to continue in prison. Captain Cheap expressed great concern when he left us; he told me it was what he had all along dreaded, that they would separate us when we got into this country; but he assured me, if he was permitted to speak to the president, that he would never leave soliciting him till he obtained a grant for me to be sent up to him. No sooner were they gone than we fared very badly. A common soldier, who was ordered to provide for us by the governor, brought us each, once a day, a few potatoes mixed with hot water. The other soldiers of the garrison, as well as the people who flocked to see us, took notice of it, and told the soldier it was cruel to treat us in that manner. His answer was, "The governor allows me but half a real a day for each of these men; what can I do? It is he that is to blame; I am shocked every time I bring them this scanty pittance, though even that could not be provided for the money he gives them."

We from this time lived much better, and the soldier brought us even wine and fruit. We took it for granted that our case had been represented to the governor, and that he had increased our pay. As to the first, we were right in our conjectures; it had been mentioned to him, that it was impossible we could subsist on what he allowed; and his answer to it was, that we might starve, for we should have no more from him, and that he believed he should never be repaid even that. This charitable speech of the governor was made known everywhere, and now almost every one who came to see us gave us something; even the mule-drivers would take out their tobacco-pouch, in which they kept their money, and give us half a real. All this we would have given to our soldier, but he never would receive a farthing from us, telling us we might still want it; and the whole time we were there, which was some weeks, he laid aside half his daily pay to supply us, though he had a wife and six children, and never could have the least hope or expectation of any recompence. However, two years after this I had the singular pleasure of making him some return, when my circumstances were much better than his.

One night, when we were locked up, there happened a dreadful shock of an earthquake. We expected every moment the roof and walls of our prison to fall in upon us and crush us to pieces; and what added to the horror of it was, the noise of chains and imprecations in the next prison which joined to ours, where there were near seventy felons heavily loaded with irons, who are kept here to work upon the fortifications, as in other countries they are condemned to the gallies. A few days after this, we were told an order was come from the president to the governor to send us up to St Jago, which is ninety miles from Valparaiso, and is the capital of Chili. There were at this time several ships in the port from Lima delivering their cargoes, so that almost every day there were large droves of mules going up to St Jago with the goods. The governor sent for one of the master carriers, and ordered him to take us up with him. The man asked him how he was to be paid our expences, as he should be five days upon the road. The governor told him he might get that as he could, for he would not advance him a single farthing.

After taking leave of our friendly soldier, who even now brought us some little matters to carry with us, we set out, and travelled about fourteen miles the first day, and lay at night in the open field, which is always the custom of these people, stopping where there is plenty of pasture and good water for the mules. The next morning we passed over a high mountain called Zapata; and then crossing a large plain, we passed another mountain, very difficult for the mules, who each carried two heavy bales: There were above an hundred in this drove. The mules of Chili are the finest in the world; and though they are continually upon the road, and have nothing but what they pick up at night, they are as fat and sleek as high-fed horses in England. The fourth night we lay upon a plain in sight of St Jago, and not above four leagues from it.

The next day, as we moved towards the city, our master-carrier, who was naturally well-disposed, and had been very kind to us all the way upon the road, advised me, very seriously, not to think of remaining in St Jago, where he said there was nothing but extravagance, vice, and folly, but to proceed on with them as mule-driver, which, he said, I should soon be very expert at; and that they led an innocent and happy life, far preferable to any enjoyment such a great city as that before us could afford. I thanked him, and told him I was very much obliged to him, but that I would try the city first, and if I did not like it, I would accept of the offer he was so good as to make me. The thing that gave him this high opinion of me was, that as he had been so civil to us, I was very officious in assisting to drive in those mules that strayed from the rest upon those large plains we passed over; and this I thought was the least I could do towards making some returns for the obligations we were under to him.

When we got into St Jago, the carrier delivered us to the captain of the guard at the palace gate, and he soon after introduced us to the president, Don Joseph Manso, who received us very civilly, and then sent us to the house where Captain Cheap and Mr Hamilton were. We found them extremely well lodged at the house of a Scotch physician, whose name was Don Patricio Gedd. This gentleman had been a long time in this city, and was greatly esteemed by the Spaniards, as well for his abilities in his profession as his humane disposition. He no sooner heard that there were four English prisoners arrived in that country, than he waited upon the president, and begged they might be lodged at his house. This was granted, and had we been his own brothers we could not have met with a more friendly reception; and during two years that we were with him, his constant study was to make every thing as agreeable to us as possible. We were greatly distressed to think of the expence he was at upon our account, but it was in vain for us to argue with him about it. In short, to sum up his character in a few words, there never was a man of more extensive humanity.

Two or three days after our arrival, the president sent Mr Campbell and me an invitation to dine with him, where we were to meet Admiral Pizarro and all his officers. This was a cruel stroke upon us, as we had not any clothes fit to appear in, and dared not refuse the invitation. The next day, a Spanish officer belonging to Admiral Pizarro's squadron, whose name was Don Manuel de Guiror, came and made us an offer of two thousand dollars. This generous Spaniard made this offer without any view of ever being repaid, but purely out of a compassionate motive of relieving us in our present distress. We returned him all the acknowledgments his uncommon generous behaviour merited, and accepted of six hundred dollars only, upon his receiving our draught for that sum upon the English consul at Lisbon. We now got ourselves decently clothed after the Spanish fashion, and as we were upon our parole, we went out where we pleased to divert ourselves.

This city is situated in about 33 degrees and 30 minutes south latitude, at the west foot of the immense chain of mountains called the Cordilleras. It stands on a most beautiful plain of above thirty leagues extent. It was founded by Don Pedro de Baldivia, the conqueror of Chili. The plan of it was marked out by him, in squares, like Lima; and almost every house belonging to people of any fashion has a large court before it, with great gates, and a garden behind. There is a little rivulet, neatly faced with stone, runs through every street, by which they can cool the streets or water their gardens when they please. The whole town is extremely well paved. Their gardens are full of noble orange-trees and floripondies, with all sort of flowers, which perfume the houses and even the whole city. Much about the middle of it is the great square, called the Placa Real, or the Royal Square; there are eight avenues leading into it. The west side contains the cathedral and the bishop's palace; the north side is the president's palace, the royal court, the council house, and the prison; the south side is a row of piazzas, the whole length of which are shops, and over it a gallery to see the bull-fights; the east side has some large houses belonging to people of distinction, and in the middle is a large fountain with a brass bason. The houses have, in general, only a ground floor, upon account of the frequent earthquakes; but they make a handsome appearance. The churches are rich in gilding as well as in plate: That of the Jesuits is reckoned an exceeding good piece of architecture, but it is much too high built for a country so subject to earthquakes, and where it has frequently happened that thousands of people have been swallowed up at once.

There is a hill, or rather high rock, at the east end of the city, called St Lucia, from the top of which you have a view of all the city and the country about for many leagues, affording a very delightful landscape. Their estancias, or country houses, are very pleasant, having generally a fine grove of olive trees, with large vineyards to them. The Chili wine, in my opinion, is full as good as Madeira, and made in such quantities that it is sold extremely cheap. The soil of this country is so fertile, that the husbandmen have very little trouble, for they do but in a manner scratch up the ground, and without any kind of manure it yields an hundred fold. Without doubt the wheat of Chili is the finest in the world, and the fruits are all excellent in their kinds. Beef and mutton are so cheap, that you may have a good cow for three dollars, and a fat sheep for two shillings. Their horses are extraordinary good; and though some of them go at a great price, you may have a very good one for four dollars, or about eighteen shillings of our money.

It must be a very poor Indian who has not his four or five horses; and there are no better horsemen in the world than the Chileans, and that is not surprising, for they never chuse to go a hundred yards on foot. They have always their laco fixed to their saddle: the laco is a long thong of leather, at the end of which they make a sliding noose. It is of more general use to them than any weapon whatever, for with this they are sure of catching either horse or wild bull, upon full gallop, by any foot they please. Their horses are all trained to this, and the moment they find the thong straitened, as the other end is always made fast to the saddle, the horse immediately turns short, and throwing the beast thus caught, the huntsman wounds or secures him in what manner he thinks proper. These people are so dexterous, that they will take from the ground a glove or handkerchief while their horse is upon full stretch; and I have seen them jump upon the back of the wildest bull, and all the efforts of the beast could not throw them. This country produces all sorts of metals; it is famous for gold, silver, iron, tin, lead, and quicksilver; but some of these they do not understand working, especially quicksilver. With copper they supply all Peru, and send likewise a great deal to Europe.

The climate of Chili is, I believe, the finest in the world. What they call their winter does not last three months, and even that is very moderate, as may be imagined by their manner of building, for they have no chimneys in their houses. All the rest of the year is delightful, for though, from ten or eleven in the morning till five in the afternoon, it is very hot, yet the evenings and mornings are very cool and pleasant; and in the hottest time of the year, it is from six in the evening till two or three in the morning that the people of this country meet to divert themselves with music and other entertainments, at which there is plenty of cooling liquors, as they are well supplied with ice from the neighbouring Cordilleras. At these assemblies many intrigues are carried on: for they think of nothing else throughout the year.

Their fandangoes are very agreeable; the women dance inimitably well, and very gracefully. They are all born with an ear for music, and most of them have delightful voices, and all play upon the guitar and harp. The latter, at first, appears a very awkward instrument for a woman, yet that prejudice is soon got over, and they far excel any other nation upon it. They are extremely complaisant and polite; and when asked either to play, dance, or sing, they do it without a moment's hesitation, and that with an exceeding good grace. They have many figure-dances, but what they take most delight in, are more like our hornpipes than any thing else I can compare them to; and upon these occasions they shew surprising activity. The women are remarkably handsome, and very extravagant in their dress. Their hair, which is as thick as is possible to be conceived, they wear of a vast length, without any other ornament upon the head than a few flowers; they plait it behind in four plaits, and twist them round a bodkin, at each end of which is a diamond rose. Their shifts are all over lace, as is a little tight waistcoat they wear over them. Their petticoats are open before, and lap over, and have commonly three rows of very rich lace of gold or silver. In winter, they have an upper waistcoat of cloth of gold or silver, and in summer, of the finest linen, covered all over with the finest Flanders lace. The sleeves of these are immensely wide. Over all this, when the air is cool, they have a mantle, which is only of bays, of the finest colours, round which there is abundance of lace. When they go abroad, they wear a veil, which is so contrived that one eye is only seen. Their feet are very small, and they value themselves as much upon it as the Chinese do. Their shoes are pinked and cut; their stockings silk, with gold and silver cloaks; and they love to have the end of an embroidered garter hang a little below the petticoat. Their breasts and shoulders are very naked; and, indeed, you may easily discern their whole shape by their manner of dress. They have fine sparkling eyes, ready wit, a great deal of good nature, and a strong disposition to gallantry.

By the description of one house you have an idea of all the rest. You first come into a large court, on one side of which is the stable: you then enter a hall; on one side of that is a large room, about twenty feet wide, and near forty feet long: that side next the window is the estrado, which runs the whole length of the room. The estrado is a platform, raised about five or six inches above the fioor, and is covered with carpets and velvet cushions for the women to sit on, which they do, after the Moorish fashion, cross-legged. The chairs for the men are covered with printed leather. At the end of the estrado, there is an alcove, where the bed stands; and there is always a vast deal of the sheets hanging out, with a profusion of lace to them, and the same on the pillows. They have a false door to the alcove, which sometimes is very convenient. Besides, there are generally two other rooms, one within another, and the kitchen and other offices are detached from the house, either at one side, or at the end of the garden.

The ladies are fond of having their Mulatto female slaves dressed almost as well as themselves in every respect, excepting jewels, in which they indulge themselves to the utmost extravagance. Paraguay tea, which they call matte, as I mentioned before, is always drunk twice a day: this is brought upon a large silver salver, with four legs raised upon it, to receive a little cup made out of a small calabash or gourd, and tipped with silver. They put the herb first into this, and add what sugar they please, and a little orange juice; and then pour hot water on them, and drink it immediately through the conveyance of a long silver tube, at the end of which there is a round strainer, to prevent the herb getting through. And here it is reckoned a piece of politeness for the lady to suck the tube two or three times first, and then give it the stranger to drink without wiping it. They eat every thing so highly seasoned with red pepper, that those who are not used to it, upon the first mouthful would imagine their throats on fire for an hour afterwards; and it is a common custom here, though you have the greatest plenty at your own table, to have two or three Mulatto girls come in at the time you dine, bringing, in a little silver plate, some of these high-seasoned ragouts, with a compliment from Donna such-a- one, who desires you will eat a little bit of what she has sent you, which must be done before her Mulatto's face, or it would be deemed a great affront. Had this been the fashion at Chiloe, we should never have offended; but sometimes here we could have wished this ceremony omitted.

The president never asked any of us a second time to his table. He expected us once a fortnight to be at his levee, which we never failed, and he always received us very politely. He was a man of a very amiable character, and much respected by every body in Chili, and some time after we left that country was appointed viceroy of Peru.

[CHAPTER IX.]

Account of the Bull Feasts and other Amusements.--Occurrences during nearly two Years Residence.--In December, 1744, we embark for Europe in the Lys French Frigate.--The Vessel leaky.--Dangerous Voyage.--Narrow Escape from English Cruizers.--Arrival in England.--Conclusion.

We had leave, whenever we asked it, to make an excursion into the country for ten or twelve days at a time, which we did sometimes to a very pleasant spot belonging to Don Joseph Dunose, a French gentleman, and a very sensible well-bred man, who had married a very agreeable lady at St Jago, with a good fortune. We also sometimes had invitations from the Spaniards to their country houses. We had a numerous acquaintance in the city, and in general received many civilities from the inhabitants. There are a great many people of fashion, and very good families from Old Spain settled here. A lady lived next door to us, whose name was Donna Francisca Giron; and as my name sounded something like it, she would have it that we were parientes. She had a daughter, a very fine young woman, who both played and sung remarkably well: she was reckoned the finest voice in St Jago. They saw a great deal of company, and we were welcome to her house whenever we pleased. We were a long time in this country, but we passed it very agreeably. The president alone goes with four horses to his coach; but the common vehicle here is a calash, or kind of vis-a-vis, drawn by one mule only.

Bull-feasts are a common diversion here, and surpass any thing of that kind I ever saw at Lisbon, or any where else. Indeed, it is amazing to see the activity and dexterity of those who attack the bulls. It is always done here by those only who follow it as a trade, for it is too dangerous to be practised as a diversion; as a proof of which, it is found, that though some may hold out longer than others, there are few who constantly practise it that die a natural death. The bulls are always the wildest that can be brought in from the mountains or forests, and have nothing on their horns to prevent their piercing a man at the first stroke, as they have at Lisbon. I have seen a man, when the bull came at him with the utmost fury, spring directly over the beast's head, and perform this feat several times, and at last jump on his back, and there sit a considerable time, the bull the whole time attempting every means to throw him. But though this practitioner was successful, several accidents happened while I was there. The ladies, at these feasts, are always dressed as fine as possible; and, I imagine, go rather to be admired than to receive any amusement from a sight that one should think would give them pain.

Another amusement for the ladies here, are the nights of their great processions, when they go out veiled; and in that dress, they amuse themselves in talking to people much in the manner that is done at our masquerades. One night in Lent, as I was standing close to the houses while the procession went by, and having nothing but a thin waistcoat on under my cloak, and happening to have my arm out, a lady came by, and gave me a pinch with so good a will, that I thought she had taken the piece out; and, indeed, I carried the marks for a long time after. I durst not take the least notice of this at the time, for had I made any disturbance, I should have been knocked on the head. This kind lady immediately after mixed with the crowd, and I never could find out who had done me that favour. I have seen fifty or sixty penitents following these processions; they wear a long white garment with a long train to it, and high caps of the same, which fall down before and cover all their faces, having only two small holes for their eyes, so that they are never known. Their backs are bare, and they lash themselves with a cat-o'-nine-tails till the long train behind is covered all over with blood. Others follow them with great heavy crosses upon their backs, so that they groan under the weight as they walk barefooted, and often faint away. The streets swarm with friars of all the different orders. The president has always a guard at his palace regularly clothed. The rest of their forces consists of militia, who are numerous.

All European goods are very dear. English cloth of fourteen or fifteen shillings a yard, sells there for ten or eleven dollars, and every other article in proportion. We found many Spaniards here that had been taken by Commodore Anson, and had been for some time prisoners on board the Centurion.. They all spoke in the highest terms of the kind treatment they had received; and it is natural to imagine, that it was chiefly owing to that laudable example of humanity our reception here was so good. They had never had any thing but privateers and buccaneers amongst them before, who handled their prisoners very roughly, so that the Spaniards in general, both of Peru and Chili, had the greatest dread of being taken by the English; but some of them told us, that they were so happy on board the Centurion, that they should not have been sorry if the commodore had taken them with him to England.

After we had been here some time, Mr Campbell changed his religion, and of course left us. At the end of two years, the president sent for us, and informed us a French ship from Lima, bound to Spain, had put into Valparaiso, and that we should embark in her. After taking leave of our good friend Mr Gedd, and all our acquaintance at St Jago, we set out for Valparaiso, mules and a guide being provided for us. I had forgot to say before, that Captain Cheap had been allowed by the president six reals a day, and we had four for our maintenance the whole time we were at St Jago, which money we took up as we wanted it. Our journey back was much pleasanter than we found it when we were first brought hither, as we had now no mules to drive. The first person I met, upon our entrance into Valparaiso, was the poor soldier whom I mentioned to have been so kind to us when we were imprisoned in the fort. I now made him a little present, which, as it came quite unexpected, made him very happy. We took lodgings till the ship was ready to sail, and diverted ourselves as we pleased, having the good fortune, at this time, to have nothing to do with the governor or his fort. The town is but a poor little place; there are, indeed, a good many storehouses built by the water-side for the reception of goods from the shipping.

About the 20th of December, 1744, we embarked on board the Lys frigate, belonging to St Malo. She was a ship of four hundred and twenty tons, sixteen guns, and sixty men. She had several passengers on board, and amongst the rest Don George Juan, a man of very superior abilities, (and since that time well known in England) who, with Don Antonio Ulloa, had been several years in Peru, upon a design of measuring some degrees of the meridian near the equator. We were now bound to Conception, in order to join three other French ships that were likewise bound home. As this was a time of the year when the southerly winds prevailed upon this coast, we stood off a long way to the westward, making the island of Juan Fernandez. We did not get into the Bay of Conception till the 6th of January, 1745, where we anchored at Talcaguana, and there found the Louis Erasme, the Marquis d'Antin, and the Delivrance, the three French ships that we were to accompany. It is but sixty leagues from Valparaiso to Conception, though we had been so long making this passage; but there is no beating up, near the shore, against the southerly wind, which is the trade at this season, as you are sure to have a lee-current; so that the quickest way of making a passage is to stand off a hundred and twenty or thirty leagues from the land.

The Bay of Conception is a large fine bay, but there are several shoals in it, and only two good anchoring places, though a ship may anchor within a quarter of a league of the town, but this only in the very fine months, as you lay much exposed. The best anchoring-place is Talcaguana, the southernmost neck of the bay, in five or six fathom water, good holding ground, and where you are sheltered from the northerly winds. The town has no other defence but a low battery, which only commands the anchoring-place before it. The country is extremely pleasant, and affords the greatest plenty of provisions of all kinds. In some excursions we made daily from Talcaguana, we saw great numbers of very large snakes, but we were told they were quite harmless.

I have read some former accounts of Chili, by the Jesuits, wherein they tell you that no venomous creature is to be found in it, and that they even made the experiment of bringing bugs here, which died immediately, but I never was in any place that swarmed with them so much as St Jago; and they have a large spider there, whose bite is so venomous, that I have seen from it some of the most shocking sights I ever saw in my life; and it certainly proves mortal, if proper remedies are not applied in time. I was once bit by one on the cheek whilst asleep, and presently after all that part of my face turned as black as ink. I was cured-by the application of a bluish kind of stone (the same, perhaps, they call the serpent-stone in the East Indies, and which is a composition.) The stone stuck for some time of itself on my face, and dropping off, was put into milk till it had digested the poison it had extracted, and then applied again till the pain abated, and I was soon afterwards well.

Whilst the ships remained at Conception, the people were employed in killing of cattle and salting them for the voyage, and every ship took on board as many bullocks and sheep as their decks could well hold, and having completed their business here, they sailed the 27th of January; but about eight days after our ship sprung a very dangerous leak forward, but so low, that there was no possibility of stopping it without returning into port, and lightening her till they could come at it. Accordingly we separated from the other ships, and made the best of our way for Valparaiso, keeping all hands at the pump night and day, passengers and all. However, as it happened, this proved a lucky circumstance for the Lys, as the three other ships were taken, and which certainly would have been her fate likewise had she kept company with the rest. As soon as we got into port, they lightened the ship forwards, and brought her by the stern till they came at the leak, which was soon, stopped. They made all the dispatch possible in completing the water again. Whilst at Valparaiso, we had one of the most violent shocks of an earthquake that we had ever felt yet.

On the first of March we put to sea again, the season being already far advanced for passing Cape Horn. The next day we went to an allowance of a quart of water a day for each man, which continued the whole passage. We were obliged to stand a long way to the westward, and went to the northward of Juan Fernandez above a degree, before we had a wind that we could make any southing with. On the 25th, in the latitude of 46 degrees, we met with a violent hard gale at west, which obliged us to lie-to under a reefed mainsail for some days, and before we got round the cape, we had many very hard gales, with a prodigious sea and constant thick snow; and after being so long in so delightful a climate as Chili, the cold was almost insupportable. After doubling the cape, we got but slowly to the northward; and indeed, at the best of times, the ship never went above six knots, for she was a heavy-going thing. On the 27th of May we crossed the Line, when finding that our water was grown extremely short, and that it would be almost impossible to reach Europe without a supply, it was resolved to bear away for Martinico. On the 29th of June, in the morning, we made the island of Tobago, and then shaped a course for Martinico, and on the first of July, by our reckonings, expected to see it, but were disappointed. This was imputed to the currents, which, whether they had set the ship to the eastward or westward, nobody could tell; but, upon looking over the charts, it was imagined, if the current had driven her to the westward, it must have been among the Granadillos, which was thought impossible without seeing any of them, as they are so near together, and a most dangerous place for rocks. It was then concluded we were to the eastward, and accordingly we steered S.W. by W.; but having run this course for above thirty leagues, and no land appearing, it was resolved to stand to the northward till we should gain the latitude of Porto Rico, and on the 4th in the evening we made that island, so that it was now certain the ship had been hustled through the Granadillos in the night, which was, without doubt, as extraordinary a passage as ever ship made.

It was now resolved to go between the islands of Porto Rico and St. Domingo for Cape Francois, therefore we lay-to that night. In the morning, we made sail along shore; and about ten o'clock, as I was walking the quarter-deck, Captain Cheap came out of the cabin, and told me he had just seen a beef- barrel go by the ship, that he was sure it had but lately been thrown overboard, and that he would venture any wager we saw an English cruizer before long. In about half an hour after, we saw two sail to leeward from, off the quarter-deck, for they kept no look-out from the mast-head, and we presently observed they were in chace of us. The French and Spaniards on board now began to grow a good deal alarmed, when it fell stark calm, but not before the ships had neared us so much, that we plainly discerned them to be English men of war, the one a two-decker, the other a twenty-gun ship. The French had now thoughts, when a breeze should spring up, of running the ship on shore upon Porto Rico; but when they came to consider what a set of banditti inhabited that island, and that in all probability they would have their throats cut for the sake of plundering the wreck, they were resolved to take their chance, and stand to the northward between the two islands.

In the evening, a fresh breeze sprung up, and we shaped a course accordingly. The two ships had it presently afterwards, and neared us amazingly fast. Now every body on board gave themselves up; the officers were busy in their cabins filling their pockets with what was most valuable; the men put on their best clothes, and many of them came to me with little lumps of gold, desiring I would take them, as they said they had much rather I should benefit by them, whom they were acquainted with, than those that chaced them. I told them there was time enough, though I thought they were as surely taken as if the English had been already on board. A fine moonlight night came on, and we expected every moment to see the ships alongside of us; but we saw nothing of them in the night, and to our great astonishment in the morning no ships were to be seen even from the mast-head. Thus did these two cruizers lose one of the richest prizes by not chasing an hour or two longer. There were near two millions of dollars on board, besides a valuable cargo.

On the eighth, at six in the morning, we were off Cape La Grange; and, what is very remarkable, the French at Cape Francois told us afterwards that was the only day they ever remembered since the war, that the cape had been without one or two English privateers cruising off it; and but the evening before two of them had taken two outward-bound St Domingo-men, and had gone with them for Jamaica, so that this ship might be justly esteemed a most lucky one. In the afternoon we came to an anchor in Cape Francois harbour.

In this long run we had not buried a single man, nor do I remember that there was one sick the whole passage, but at this place many were taken ill, and three or four died, for there is no part of the West Indies more unhealthy than this; yet the country is beautiful, and extremely well cultivated. After being here some time, the governor ordered us to wait upon him, which we did, when he took no more notice of us than if we had been his slaves, never asking us even to sit down.

Towards the end of August, a French squadron of five men of war came in, commanded by Monsieur L'Etanducre, who were to convoy the trade to France. Neither he nor his officers ever took any kind of notice of Captain Cheap, though we met them every day ashore. One evening, as we were going aboard with the captain of our ship, a midshipman belonging to Monsieur L'Etanducre jumped into our boat, and ordered the people to carry him on board the ship he belonged to, leaving us to wait upon the beach for two hours before the boat returned.

On the sixth of September, we put to sea, in company with the five men of war and about fifty sail of merchantmen. On the eighth, we made the Cayco Grande; and the next day a Jamaica privateer, a large fine sloop, hove in sight, keeping a little to windward of the convoy, resolving to pick up one or two of them in the night if possible. This obliged Monsieur L'Etanducre to send a frigate to speak to all the convoy, and order them to keep close to him in the night, which they did, and in such a manner, that sometimes seven or eight of them were on board one another together, by which they received much damage; and to repair which, the whole squadron was obliged to lay-to sometimes for a whole day. The privateer kept her station, jogging on with the fleet. At last, the commodore ordered two of his best going ships to chace her. She appeared to take no notice of them till they were pretty near her, and then would make sail and be out of sight presently. The chacing ships no sooner returned, than the privateer was in company again.

As by this every night some accident happened to some of the convoy by keeping so close together, a fine ship of thirty guns belonging to Marseilles, hauled out a little to windward of the rest of the fleet, which L'Etanducre perceiving in the morning, ordered the frigate to bring the captain of her on board of him; and then making a signal for all the convoy to close to him, he fired a gun, and hoisted a red flag at the ensign staff, and immediately after the captain of the merchantman was run up to the main-yard-arm, and from thence ducked three times. He was then sent on board his ship again, with orders to keep his colours flying the whole day, in order to distinguish him from the rest. We were then told, that the person who was treated in this cruel manner was a young man of an exceeding good family in the south of France, and likewise a man of great spirit, and that he would not fail to call Monsieur L'Etanducre to an account when an opportunity should offer; and the affair made much noise in France afterwards. One day, the ship we were in happened to be out of her station, by sailing so heavily, when the commodore made the signal to speak to our captain, who seemed frightened out of his wits. When we came near him, he began with the grossest abuse, threatening our captain, that if ever he was out of his station again, he would serve him as he had done the other. This rigid discipline, however, preserved the convoy; for though the privateer kept company a long time, she was not so fortunate as to meet with the reward of her perseverance.

On the 27th of October, in the evening, we made Cape Ortegal, and on the 31st came to an anchor in Brest road. The Lys, having so valuable a cargo on board, was towed into the harbour next morning, and lashed alongside one of their men of war. The money was soon landed; and the officers and men, who had been so many years absent from their native country, were glad to get on shore. Nobody remained on board but a man or two to look after the ship, and we three English prisoners, who had no leave to go ashore. The weather was extremely cold, and felt particularly so to us, who had been so long used to hot climates; and what made it still worse, we were very thinly clad. We had neither fire nor candle, for they were allowed on board of no ship in the harbour for fear of accidents, being close to their magazines in the dock-yard. Some of the officers belonging to the ship were so kind as to send us off victuals every day, or we might have starved, for Monsieur L'Intendant never sent us even a message; and though there was a very large squadron of men of war fitting out at that time, not one officer belonging to them ever came near Captain Cheap. From five in the evening we were obliged to sit in the dark; and if we chose to have any supper, it was necessary to place it very near us before that time, or we never could have found it.

We had passed seven or eight days in this melancholy manner, when one morning a kind of row-galley came alongside with a number of English prisoners belonging to two large privateers the French had taken. We were ordered into the same boat with them, and were carried four leagues up the river to Landernaw. At this town we were upon our parole, so took the best lodgings we could get, and lived very well for three months, when an order came from the court of Spain to allow us to return home by the first ship that offered. Upon this, hearing there was a Dutch ship at Morlaix ready to sail, we took horses and travelled to that town, where we were obliged to remain six weeks before we had an opportunity of getting away. At last we agreed with the master of a Dutch dogger to land us at Dover, and paid him beforehand.

When we had got down the river into the road, a French privateer that was almost ready to sail upon a cruize, hailed the Dutchman, and told him to come to an anchor, and that if he offered to sail before him he would sink him. This he was forced to comply with, and lay three days in the road, cursing the Frenchman, who at the end of that time put to sea, and then we were at liberty to do the same. We had a long uncomfortable passage. About the ninth day, before sunset, we saw Dover, and reminded the Dutchman of his agreement to land us there. He said he would, but instead of that in the morning we were off the coast of France. We complained loudly of this piece of villainy, and insisted upon his returning to land us, when an English man of war appeared to windward, and presently bore down, to us. She sent her boat on board with an officer, who informed us that the ship he came from was the Squirrel, commanded by Captain Masterton. We went on board of her, and Captain Masterton immediately sent one of the cutters he had with him to land us at Dover, where we arrived that afternoon, and directly set out for Canterbury upon post-horses; but Captain Cheap was so tired by the time he got there, that he could proceed no farther that night.

The next morning he still found himself so much fatigued, that he could ride no longer; therefore it was agreed that he and Mr Hamilton should take a post-chaise, and that I should ride: but here an unlucky difficulty was started, for upon sharing the little money we had, it was found to be not sufficient to pay the charges to London; and my proportion fell so short, that it was, by calculation, barely enough to pay for horses, without a farthing for eating a bit upon the road, or even for the very turnpikes. Those I was obliged to defraud, by riding as hard as I could through them all, not paying the least regard to the men, who called out to stop me. The want of refreshment I bore as well as I could.

When I got to the Borough, I took a coach and drove to Marlborough-street, where my friends had lived when I left England; but when I came there, I found the house shut up. Having been absent so many years, and in all that time never having heard a word from home, I knew not who was dead or who was living, or where to go next, or even how to pay the coachman. I recollected a linen-draper's shop, not far from thence, which our family had used. I therefore drove there next, and making myself known, they paid the coachman. I then enquired after our family, and was told my sister had married Lord Carlisle, and was at that time in Soho-square. I immediately walked to the house, and knocked at the door; but the porter not liking my figure, which was half French half Spanish, with the addition of a large pair of boots covered with dirt, he was going to shut the door in my face, but I prevailed with him to let me come in.

I need not acquaint my readers with what surprise and joy my sister received me. She immediately furnished me with money sufficient to appear like the rest of my countrymen; and till that time I could not be properly said to have finished all the extraordinary scenes which a series of unfortunate adventures had kept me in for the space of five years and upwards.

A VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH-SEAS, IN THE YEARS 1740, AND 1741:

CONTAINING

A faithful NARRATIVE of the Loss of his Majesty's Ship the WAGER, on a desolate Island in the Latitude 47 South, Longitude 81: 40 West: With the Proceedings and Conduct of the Officers and Crew, and the Hardships they endured in the said Island for the Space of five Months; their bold Attempt for Liberty, in coasting the Southern Part of the vast Region of Patagonia; setting out with upwards of eighty Souls in their Boats; the Loss of the Cutter; their Passage through the Streights of Magellan; an Account of their Manner of Living in the Voyage on Seals, Wild Horses, Dogs, &c. and the incredible Hardships they frequently underwent for want of Food of any Kind; a Description of the several Places where they touched in the Streights of Magellan, with an Account of the Inhabitants, &c. and their safe Arrival to the Brazil, after sailing one thousand Leagues in a Long- boat; their Reception from the Portuguese; an Account of the Disturbances at Rio Grand; their Arrival at Rio Janeiro; their Passage and Usage on board a Portuguese Ship to Lisbon; and their Return to England.

Interspersed with many entertaining and curious Observations, not taken Notice of by Sir John Narborough, or any other Journalist:

The Whole compiled by Persons concerned in the Facts related, viz.

JOHN BULKELEY AND JOHN CUMMINS,

Late Gunner and Carpenter of the WAGER.

Bold were the Men who on the Ocean first Spread the new Sails, when Shipwreck was the worst; More Dangers now from Man alone we find, Than from the Rocks, the Billows, and the Wind. WALLER.[119]

[119] In reprinting this very curious and scarce Narrative, we have thought it proper to adhere to the orthography and contractions of the original throughout. The former are little different from the present standard, and the latter cannot give any trouble to the reader. Altogether, this is a composition not without merit sufficient to warrant its being preserved.--E.

BULKELEYS NARRATIVE.

TO THE HONOURABLE EDWARD VERNON, ESQ. VICE-ADMIRAL OF THE BLUE, &c.

Sir,

We have presumed to put the following sheets under your protection, though we have not the honour of being personally known to you, nor have applied to you for the liberty of using your celebrated name on this occasion.

As this book is a faithful extract from the journals of two British seamen, late officers in his majesty's navy, we thought we could not more properly dedicate it than to a British Admiral.

We know your detestation of flattery; and you know, from long experience, that a British seaman hath a spirit too brave to stoop to so degenerate a practice.

The following pages, we hope, will recommend themselves to you, because they are written in a plain maritime style, and void of partiality and prejudice.

The distresses mentioned in this book have perhaps not been equalled in our age; and we question whether any navigators living have, for so long a continuance, suffered such variety of hardships, as the unfortunate people of the Wager.

After surviving the loss of the ship, and combating with famine and innumerable difficulties, a remnant of us are returned to our native country; but even here we are still unfortunate, destitute of employment, almost without support, or any prospect of being restored to our stations, till some important questions are decided, which cannot be cleared up till the arrival of our late captain, or at least the commodore.

We, sir, who present you with this book, have been several years in the navy, and thought ourselves well acquainted with its laws and discipline, and have many certificates to produce, that we have always acted in obedience to command; but the proceedings of the officers and people, since the loss of the ship, are reckoned so dark and intricate, that we know not what to expect, nor what will be the result of our superiors determination.

The only consolation we have in our present anxiety, is placed in a confidence of the unbiassed integrity, justice, and humanity of the right honourable persons who will one day determine for or against us.

When you read our account of the affair, you'll find the facts impartially related, the whole narrative written without the least shadow of prejudice or malice, and no more in favour of ourselves, than of the other officers concerned: We stand or fall by the truth; if truth will not support us, nothing can.

In our voyage from the Brazil to Lisbon, we were obliged to you for the generous treatment we met with from an enemy, a subject of Spain, a person of distinction, and a passenger in the same ship: your virtues have procured you the esteem even of your enemies.

Your zeal for the national service deserves the love of every honest Briton: to leave an abundant fortune, your family, and your country, to hazard your life in the most perilous expeditions, with no other motive than to retrieve the honour of the nation, shows the spirit of a true British hero, and deserves the highest commendations.

That you, sir, may never deviate from your integrity, but continue a terror to the enemies of Britain, an honour to his majesty's service, and an ornament to your country, are the sincere wishes of,

Honourable Sir,
Your most dutiful,
And most obedient
Humble Servants,
John Bulkeley,
John Cummins.

[BULKELEY'S NARRATIVE.]

PREFACE.

As an Introduction, we think proper to acquaint the reader with our reasons for causing the following sheets to be made public to the world. The chief motive which induced us to this task, was to clear our characters, which have been exceedingly blemished by persons who, (next to Heaven) owe the preservation of their lives to our skill and indefatigable care; and who having an opportunity of arriving before us in England, have endeavoured to raise their reputation on the ruin of ours.

It will appear to the reader, on perusal of the following pages, that this journal was attempted to be taken from us by violence at Rio Janeiro; that we have preserved it at the hazard of our lives; that there was no journal kept after the loss of the ship, by any officers but ourselves; and if we had not been careful in making remarks on each day's transactions, persons must have continued in the dark, in relation to all the subsequent proceedings.

It is a very usual thing to publish voyages, especially when the navigators have met with any extraordinary events. We believe our expedition, though it was not a secret, is allowed to be an extraordinary one, consequently attended with extraordinary events: Indeed, while the commodore was with us, every thing went well; but when the squadron separated, things began to have a new face: After the loss of the Wager, there was a general disorder and confusion among the people, who were now no longer implicitly obedient. There were two seamen particularly, who propagated this confusion, they said they had suffered shipwreck in his majesty's ship the Biddeford, and received no wages from the day that the ship was lost; that when they were out of pay, they looked upon themselves as their own masters, and no longer subjected to command. The people, however, were not altogether infected, but still continued to pay a dutiful respect to their commander; but when the captain had rashly shot Mr Cozens, (whose fate the reader will find particularly related) they then grew very turbulent and unruly; the captain daily lost the love of the men, who with their affection lost their duty.

Our confining the captain is thought an audacious and unprecedented action, and our not bringing him home with us is reckoned worse; but the reader will find that necessity absolutely compelled us to act as we did, and that we had sufficient reasons for leaving him behind.

Our attempt for liberty, in sailing to the southward through the straits of Magellan, with such a number of people stowed in a long-boat, has been censured as a mad undertaking: Desperate diseases require desperate remedies; had we gone to the northward, there appeared no probability of escaping the Spaniards, and when we had fallen into their hands, 'tis not unlikely but they might have employed us as drudges in their mines for life; therefore we rather chose to encounter all difficulties than to become slaves to a merciless enemy.

Some persons have objected against our capacity for keeping a journal of this nature; but several judges of maritime affairs allow this work to be exact and regular. We think persons with a common share of understanding, are capable of committing to paper daily remarks of matter worthy their observation, especially of facts in which they themselves had so large a share. We only relate such things as could not possibly escape our knowledge, and what we actually know to be true. We don't set up for naturalists and men of great learning, therefore have avoided meddling with things above our capacity.

We are also condemned by many for being too busy and active for persons in our stations. There was a necessity for action, and a great deal of it too; and had we been as indolent and regardless for the preservation of the people as others who were superior in command, there would not have been a single man who was shipwrecked in the Wager, now in England to give any relation of the matter.

The gentleman who commanded in the long-boat, on his arrival before us at Lisbon, represented us to the English merchants in a very vile light; we were even advised by some of our friends there not to return to our country, lest we would suffer death for mutiny. But when the gentlemen of the factory had perused our journal, they found, if there was any mutiny in the case, the very person who accused us was the ringleader and chief mutineer. We were confident of our own innocence, and determined to see our country at all events, being positive that we have acted to the best of our understandings, in all respects, for the preservation of our lives and liberties; and when our superiors shall think proper to call us to an account, which we expect will be at the commodore's arrival, we do not doubt but we shall clear ourselves in spite of all invidious reflections and malicious imputations.

It has been hinted to us, as if publishing this journal would give offence to some persons of distinction. We can't conceive how any transactions relating to the Wager, although made ever so public, can give offence to any great man at home. Can it be any offence to tell the world that we were shipwrecked in the Wager, when all people know it already? Don't they know that the Wager was one of his majesty's store-ships? That we had on board not only naval stores, but other kind of stores, of an immense value? Don't they also know that we went abroad with hopes of acquiring great riches, but are return'd home as poor as beggars? We are guilty of no indecent reproaches, or unmannerly reflections; though, it is certain, we cannot but lament our being engaged in so fatal an expedition. When persons have surmounted great difficulties, it is a pleasure for them to relate their story; and if we give ourselves this satisfaction, who has any cause to be offended? Are we, who have faced death in so many shapes, to be intimidated, lest we should give offence to the--Lord knows whom? We never saw a satyrical journal in our lives, and we thought that kind of writing was the most obnoxious to give offence.

It has been a thing usual, in publishing of voyages, to introduce abundance of fiction; and some authors have been esteemed merely for being marvellous. We have taken care to deviate from those, by having a strict regard to truth. There are undoubtedly in this book some things which will appear incredible.

The account we give of the Patagonian Indians, and our own distresses, though ever so well attested, will not easily obtain credit; and people will hardly believe that human nature could possibly support the miseries that we have endured.

All the difficulties related we have actually endured, and perhaps must endure more: Till the commodore's arrival we cannot know our fate; at present we are out of all employment, and have nothing to support ourselves and families, but the profits arising from the sale of our journal; which perhaps may be the sum total we shall ever receive for our voyage to the South Seas.

A VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEAS.

On Thursday the 18th of September, 1740, sailed from St Hellens his majesty's ship Centurion, Commodore Anson, with the Gloucester, Pearl, Severn, Wager, and Tryal, and two store-ships; this squadron was designed round Cape-Horn into the South Seas, to distress the Spaniards in those parts. The ships were all in prime order, all lately rebuilt. The men were elevated with hopes of growing immensely rich, and in a few years of returning to Old England loaden with the wealth of their enemies.

Saturday, the 20th, the Ram-head bearing N. by W., distant four leagues, the commodore hoisted his pendant, and was saluted by every ship in the squadron, with thirteen guns each. This day joined company with us his majesty's ships Dragon, Winchester, South-Sea-Castle, and Rye-Galley, with a large convoy of merchant ships.

Thursday, the 25th, we parted company with the Winchester and the South- Sea-Castle, with their convoys, bound for America.

On Monday, we parted company with the Streights and Turkey convoys.

Friday, October the 3d, at eight in the morning, we saw two brigantines to the south-east; the commodore gave a signal to chace, at nine fired two shots to bring 'em to, at ten spoke with the chace, being two brigs from Lisbon, bound for New York.

Sunday, the 26th, about five in the morning, the Severn shewed lights, and fired several guns a-head; soon after we saw the land bearing W. by S, and at noon the east end of Madeira bore north, distant five leagues.

Wednesday, we moored in Fonchiale road, so called from a city of that name, which is the metropolis of the island of Madeira; here we employed most of our time in getting aboard water, and stowing our dry provisions between decks.

Tuesday, November the 4th, Captain Kidd our commander was removed on board the Pearl, and the Honourable Captain Murray succeeded him in the Wager. Captain Norris of the Gloucester having obtained leave to return to England, on account of his ill state of health, occasioned the above removals.

While we lay at Madeira, we were informed of ten sail of ships cruising off and on, to the westward, these ships were judged to be French, and had been seen every day for a week before our arrival: The commodore sent out a privateer sloop, but she returned the day following, without seeing 'em, so that we can give no account of 'em.

On Wednesday, the 5th, we sailed, from Madeira. On the 2Oth the Industry store-ship parted company, and on Friday the 28th, by account, we crossed the equinoctial.

On the 17th of December, we saw the island of St Catharine, at noon, the northmost land in sight bore W.N.W., and the southmost S.W. by W. Variation per amplitude 12; 57 easterly.

On the 18th, the north end of the island of St Catharine bore N.W. by W., distant seven leagues, and the island of Gaul bore N.W., distant six leagues.

On the 19th we anchored in St Catharine's bay, in upward of twelve fathom water, the island Gaul on the coast of Brazil, bearing N. by E., distant four leagues. On the 20th, we anchored in St Catharine's road, and the day following, we moored between the island of St Catharine and the main.

On Monday, the 22d, the commodore ordered fresh beef for the sick people.

On the 27th, came in a Portuguese brig from Rio Janeiro, for the Rio Grand: While we lay here, the people were generally employed in over-hauling the rigging, and getting aboard water.

On the 17th of January, 1741, we sailed from St Catharine's, the commodore saluted the fort with eleven guns, the fort returned the same number.

On Thursday, the 22d, we lost sight of the Pearl.

On Tuesday, the 17th of February, the Pearl joined the squadron, and on the 19th we came to anchor off the river of St Julian's, on the coast of Patagonia; St Julian's hill bearing S.W. by W., and the southmost land in sight S. by E., distant from the shore three leagues. This day our captain, the Honourable George Murray, took command on board the Pearl, Captain Kidd having died on the voyage since we left St Catharine's.

Captain Kidd was heard to say, a few days before his death, that this voyage, which both officers and sailors had engaged in with so much cheerfulness and alacrity, would prove in the end very far from their expectations, notwithstanding the vast treasure they imagined to gain by it; that it would end in poverty, vermin; famine, death, and destruction. How far the captain's words were prophetic will appear in the course of our journal. Captain C--p succeeded Captain Murray on board the Wager.

On the 26th of February, we sent on board the Pearl twelve butts and two puncheons of water, the Pearl having, while she was separated from us, been chased by five large Spanish men of war, the commander in chief being distinguished by a red broad pendant with a swallow's tail at his main-top- mast head, and a red flag at his ensign-staff: During the chace, the Pearl, in order to clear ship, threw overboard and stove fourteen tons of water; she likewise stove the long-boat, and threw her overboard, with oars, sails, and booms, and made all clear for engaging, but night coming on at seven o'clock lost sight of the enemy, at five in the morning saw the Spanish ships from the mast-head, two points on the lee-quarter, still giving chace, and crowding all the sail they could, but at nine the Pearl lost sight of 'em entirely. We judged this to be admiral Pizarro's squadron, sent out in pursuit of Commodore Anson. Had our ships united fallen in with 'em, 'tis probable we might have given a good account of 'em. While we lay at St Julian's we saw the sea full of shrimps, and red as if they were boiled, the water appeared tinctured to that degree, that it looked like blood.

On the 27th, we sent on board the Pearl four puncheons of water more; at six in the morning, the commodore made signal to weigh, at eight weighed, and came to sail; this day we lost sight of the Gloucester.

The 28th, the Gloucester came into the squadron again.

On the 7th of March we passed through the Streights of Le Mair; Cape Diego, on the island of Terra de Fuego, bore N.W., three leagues, and the west end of the island, Staten Land, bore E.N.E., distant four leagues, the squadron under reeft courses.

On the 10th, we lost sight of the Ann pink, on the 12th carried away the rails and timbers of the head on both sides.

On the 16th, the Ann pink joined the squadron again.

On the 3Oth, the Gloucester broke her main-yard in the slings.

April the 1st, the commodore ordered Mr Cummins, the carpenter, on board the Gloucester.

On the 8th, carried away the mizen-mast, two feet above the awning; there was no sail on the mast. Upon the rowl of a sea, all the chain-plates to windward broke, lat. 56, 31, long. 87.4, west. At noon Cape St Bartholomew bore north, 84 deg. E., distant 229 leagues.

The 10th, lost sight of the Severn and Pearl, lat. 56, 29, long. 85 west. At ten last night fell in with two small islands; at eight in the morning the islands bore N.N.W., by the compass distant eight leagues, in the latitude 54, 00 south; we took 'em for the islands which lay off Brewer's Streights, lat. 54, 50 south, long. 84, 56 west.

On the 12th, we had very hard gales at west, with the largest swell I ever saw; I was officer of the watch (though I was gunner of the ship, I had the charge of a watch during the whole voyage); we had our larboard tacks on board: Between six and seven in the morning, holding by the topsail hallyards to wind-ward, there broke a sea in the ship, which carried me over the wheel, bilged the cutter, and canted her over the sheet's bottom up athwart the barge; it likewise half filled the long-boat; the boatswain was for heaving the cutter overboard, I order'd him to do nothing with her till I had acquainted the captain, who was then very ill in his cabin: The captain desired me to use all means to save the cutter; at the same time I ask'd leave to skuttle the long-boat, and get the sprit-sail yard and jib in, for fear of endangering the bowsprit; which he ordered to be done, and told me, it was a very great misfortune that he should be ill at such a time. When I came from the captain, I found the lieutenant on the deck, got the cutter in her place, skuttled the long-boat, and got the sprit-sail yard and jib-boom in. The carpenter is still aboard the Gloucester.

The 13th, under reeft courses, the larboard tacks; the commodore being on the weather quarter, bore down under our lee, and spoke with us. He ask'd the captain, if the carpenter was returned from the Gloucester? The captain answer'd, No; and am surprised Captain M----d should detain him, when he knows I must want him about my mizen-mast. The commodore told him he would speak with the Gloucester, and order him on board. He then ask'd the captain why he did not set the main-top-sail, and make more sail? Captain C----p made answer, My rigging is all gone, and broke fore and aft, and my people almost all taken ill, and down; but I will set him as soon as possible. The commodore desired he would, and make what sail he could after him.

The 14th, the carpenter return'd from the Gloucester, it being the only day this fortnight a boat could live in the sea. As soon as the carpenter came on board, he waited on the captain, who order'd him to look on the chain- plates and chains, and give his opinion of the mast's going away. The carpenter look'd as order'd, and gave Captain C----p for answer, that the chain-plates were all broke. The captain shook his head, and said, Carpenter, that is not the reason of the mast's going away. The carpenter, not willing, as the mast was gone, to lay it to any one's mismanagement, or to occasion any uneasiness about what was now past prevention, fitted a cap on the stump of the mizen-mast, got up a lower studding-sail boom of 40 feet, and hoisted a sail to keep the ship to.

To-day, being the 19th, and the finest day we had in these seas, we were employ'd in repairing the rigging; we bent a new main-sail and reeft him, as did the Anne pink, the Gloucester at the same time fix'd her main-yard, the commodore and Tryal keeping a-head, and at a considerable distance; between four and six at night saw the commodore's light. At six, being relieved by the master, he could not see the commodore's light, though it was visible to every one else on the quarter-deck: The master still persisted he could not see it, on which I went and acquainted the captain, who came upon deck, and seeing the light, ask'd the master where his eyes were? This was the last time I ever saw the commodore. The lieutenant having the first watch lost sight of him at nine o'clock, and at ten was obliged to hand the foresail, in doing of which we lost a seaman over- board. We saw the Gloucester and Anne pink a-stern in the morning, but they were soon gone ahead, and out of sight.

The 21st, as I was in the steward's room, Joseph King, seaman, came for a pound of bread. I heard him ask the steward, if he thought they would be serv'd with the same quantity of water as before? Without waiting for an answer, No G--d d--n 'em, as the commodore was parted, they should find the difference. Not knowing the conseqence of this, or by whom the fellow might be spirited up, I acquainted the captain with the affair, who order'd me to deliver a brace of pistols charg'd with a brace of balls to every officer in the ship who wanted 'em, and to take no farther notice of the matter.

May the 1st. This day the officers were call'd, and their opinions ask'd concerning the best bower-anchor, resolved to cut the anchor away, for fear of endangering the ship, there being no possibility of securing it without putting our fore-mast in extreme danger, the shrouds and chain-plates being all broke.

Fourteen days before the loss of the ship, the wind at S. and S.S.W., steered N.W. by N., and N.N.W. by the compass: Laid the ship to for the first four nights; the meaning of this I could not learn. I ask'd the lieutenant the reason of our bearing for the land on a lee shore, when we had a fair wind for our rendezvous, which I had always thought was for the island of Juan Ferdinandez. The lieutenant told me the rendezvous was alter'd to an island in the latitude of 44 S. Upon this I said to the lieutenant, this was a very great misfortune to us, that we can do nothing with the ship in the condition she is in upon a lee shore, and am surpriz'd that we should be obliged to go there. The lieutenant told me, he had said every thing to dissuade the captain from it, but found him determined to go there. The fifth night, and every night after, made sail; the wind to the westward. I never relieved the lieutenant, but I ask'd him, what he thought of a lee shore with the ship in this condition? he always reply'd, he could not tell. We saw rock-weed in abundance pass by the ship. The Honourable J---n B---n, midshipman, being on the quarter-deck, said, We can't be far off the land by these weeds. The lieutenant and mate being by, I said, Gentlemen, what can we do with the ship in the miserable condition she is in on a lee shore? The lieutenant answer'd, Whenever I have been with the captain since our first lying-to, I always persuaded him to go for Juan Ferdinandez; therefore I would have you go to him, he may be persuaded by you tho' he will not by me. I said, If that was the case, my going to him is needless. In a quarter of an hour afterwards, the captain sent for me, and said, Gunner, what longitude have you made? I told him 82,30. What distance do you reckon yourself off the land? I answer'd, About 60 leagues; but if the two islands we saw are these which are laid down in your chart to lie off Brewer's Streights, and the same current continues with the western swell, we can't be above a third part of the distance off the land. The captain made answer, As for the currents, there is no account to be given for 'em; sometimes they set one way, and sometime another. I said, Sir, very true, but as the ship has been always under reeft courses, and the mizen-mast gone, she must wholly drive to leeward, and nigher the land than expected. The captain then told me, I suppose you are not unacquainted of my rendezvous for the island of Nostra Signora di Socora, in the latitude of 44. I reply'd, Sir, the ship is in a very bad condition to come in with the lee shore, and if it is possible to bring the ship to an anchor, we shall never purchase him again. The captain answered, I don't design to come to an anchor; for there are soundings until you come within seven leagues of the land. I purpose to stand off and on twenty-four hours; and if I don't see the commodore, or any of the squadron in that time, we will go for Juan Ferdinandez. To this I said, Sir, the ship is a perfect wreck; our mizen-mast gone, with our standing rigging afore and abaft, and all our people down; therefore I can't see what we can do in with the land. The captain's answer was, It does not signify, I am obliged and determin'd to go for the first rendezvous.

On the 13th, at eight in the morning, the straps of the fore-jeer blocks broke; reev'd the top ropes, and lower'd the yard; went to strapping the blocks. At nine, the carpenter going forward to inspect the chain-plates, saw the land from the fore-castle, on which he ask'd the boatswain's mate, who was by him, if he saw the land? he answer'd, No; the carpenter shew'd it him and he saw it plain. The carpenter then shew'd it to the lieutenant, but he would not believe it to be land, because it bore N.N.W., and said it was impossible; therefore he never inform'd the captain of the sight of land, as the Honourable Mr B----n hath heard the captain say. At two in the afternoon lower'd the fore-yard, and hawl'd the fore-sail up; notwithstanding I was officer of the watch, I was oblig'd to go upon the fore-yard, where was Mr Campbell, midshipman, one boatswain's mate, four seamen, and the master's servant, which were all the hands we could get out of the ship's company to assist. Whilst on the yard I saw the land very plain, on the lardboard beam, bearing N.W. half N., nearest high land, with hillocks, and one remarkable hommocoe like a sugar loaf, very high. At the sight of land I came off the fore-yard and acquainted the captain. He immediately gave orders to sway the fore-yard up, and set the fore-sail; then we wore ship with her head to the southward. The captain coming forward unhappily received a fall, which dislocated his shoulder, so that he was obliged to be put into the surgeon's cabin. Some time after he sent for the lieutenant and myself, acquainting us of the necessity there was for making sail, as being on a lee shore, therefore desired we would use our utmost endeavours to crowd the ship off. You see, gentlemen, said he, my misfortune will not permit me to continue on the deck; as for the master, he is not worthy of the charge of a watch, therefore I must desire you, Mr Bulkeley, to be in the watch with him, and to make but two watches; keep a good look-out, and if possible, set the main-top sail. Mr B----s, I must desire Mr Cummins to be with you, and beg you will take all the care you can. I having the first watch, set the main fore and mizen stay sail, it blew so hard I found it impossible to set the maintop sail, of which, I acquainted the captain: All the hands we cou'd muster in both watches, officers included, were but twelve, the rest of the ship's company were all sick below; I very often could get no more than three seamen in my watch. The ship for these three weeks hath been no better than a wreck, the mizen- mast gone, the standing rigging and chain-plates, afore and abaft, mostly broke and ruin'd. The top sails now at the yards are so bad, that if we attempt to loose'em for making sail, we are in danger of splitting'em, and we have not a spare sail in the ship that can be brought to the yard without being repair'd. This is the present deplorable situation of the ship. All the first and middle watch it blow'd and rain'd, and withal so very dark, that we could not see the length of the ship: For the greatest part of the night she came up no nearer than S. by W., and S.S.W. At four in the morning she came up with her head west, so that her head was then off the shore.

Thursday, May the 14th, 1741, at half an hour past four this morning, the ship struck abaft on a sunken rock, sounded fourteen fathom; but it being impossible to let go the anchor time enough to bring her up, being surrounded on every side with rocks, (a very dismal prospect to behold!) the ship struck a second time, which broke the head of the tiller, so that we were obliged to steer her with the main and fore-sheets, by easing off one, and hawling aft the other, as she came to, or fell off. In a short time after, she struck, bilged, and grounded, between two small islands, where Providence directed us to such a place as we could save our lives. When the ship struck it was about break of day, and not above a musket-shot from the shore. Launched the barge, cutter, and yawl over the gunnel, cut main and fore-mast by the board, and the sheet-anchor from the gunnel. The captain sent the barge ashore, with Mr S----w, the mate, to see if the place was inhabited, and to return aboard directly; but, without any regard to his duty, or the preservation of the lives of the people, he staid ashore. The barge not returning as expected, the lieutenant was sent in the yawl, with orders to bring off the barge. The lieutenant tarried ashore, but sent off the boat. As soon as the boat came on board, the captain being very ill, was persuaded by the officers to go ashore: With the captain went the land-officers, mate, and midshipmen, the officers remaining on board were the master, boatswain, gunner, and carpenter: The boatswain, who was laid up a month before the loss of the ship, became of a sudden very vigorous and active. At night it blow'd very hard at north, with a great tumbling sea, we expected every moment that the ship would part, fetching such jirks and twistings as shock'd every person aboard, who had the least care for the preservation of life; yet, in the dismal situation we were in, we had several in the ship so thoughtless of their danger, so stupid and insensible of their misery, that upon the principal officers leaving her, they fell into the most violent outrage and disorder: They began with broaching the wine in the lazaretto; then to breaking open cabins and chests, arming themselves with swords and pistols, threatening to murder those who should oppose or question them: Being drunk and mad with liquor, they plunder'd chests and cabins for money and other things of value, cloathed themselves in the richest apparel they could find, and imagined themselves lords paramount.

Friday the 15th, the ship was bilged in the mid-ship, on a great rock; we took care to secure some powder, ball, and a little bread. In the afternoon, the carpenter and myself went ashore with several of those imaginary lords in the rich attire they had plunder'd yesterday; but upon the purser, and Lieutenant Hamilton of marines, presenting pistols to some of their breasts, those grandees suffer'd themselves very quietly to be disrob'd of all their greatness, and in a few minutes look'd like a parcel of transported fellons. On our coming ashore, we found the captain had taken his lodging in a little hut, supposed to be built by Indians; as for our parts, we were forced to take shelter under a great tree, where we made a large fire, but it rain'd so hard, that it had almost cost us our lives; an invalid died that very night on the spot. Before I left the ship I went to my cabin for my journal, but could not find it; I believe it is destroyed with the rest, for there is not one journal to be produced, we have good reason to apprehend there was a person employ'd to destroy them; I afterwards found part of the master's journal along shore, tore to pieces: Whatever is related in this book, preceding the loss of the Wager, is extracted from a journal belonging to a gentleman, lately an officer on board the Pearl. After we lost sight of the Pearl, I was obliged to have recourse to my memory, which I believe has been very faithful to me. From the time we were ship-wreck'd, the carpenter and myself were exceeding careful in writing each day's transactions: Had other persons taken the same care, there would be no necessity of imposing upon the publick a partial and inconsistent narrative, instead of a faithful relation of facts.

On the 16th, the weather very boisterous and a great sea, the boatswain wanted a boat, but finding no appearance of any coming aboard, brought a quarter-deck gun, a four pounder, to bear on the captain's hut, and fir'd two shot, which went just over the captain's tent. This day, being resolv'd to contrive something like a house, to secure us from the inclemency of the rain, and severity of the weather, we hawl'd up the cutter, and propping her up, we made a tolerable habitation. As for food, this island produces none; nor is there any vegetable upon it but cellery, which grows here in abundance, and is of great use to us, the men being in general very much troubled with the scurvy.

On the 17th of May, being Whitsunday, got several wild fowls, and plenty of muscles, limpets, and other shell-fish, which we find very refreshing, having subsisted a long time on nothing but salt provisions.

The 18th, went on board the ship, to see if it was possible to come at any provisions; got out of the Lazaretto two casks of flour and some wine, which were very useful.

On the 19th, went aboard again to scuttle the decks, in order to get some beef and pork out of the hold; we also scuttled the carpenter's store-room for nails and other things of service.

The 20th, cut away the gunnel to get the long-boat out, which was done. To- day we found several men dead, and some drowned, in the ship, suppos'd to have drank till they were not able to get from the water, as it flowed into the ship. While we were aboard working on the wreck, there came along-side a canoe with several Indians, bowing and crossing themselves, giving us to understand they were inclinable to the Romish religion; we gave 'em out of the ship two bales of cloth and sent them ashore to the captain, he gave them hats, and presented each of them with a soldier's coat. They had abundance of the largest and best muscles I ever saw, or tasted. This day was the first time of the boatswain's coming ashore; the captain called him rogue and villain, and felled him to the ground with his cane, so that he was motionless, and to appearance dead; when he had recovered the blow, and saw a cock'd pistol in the captain's hand, he offered his naked breast; the captain told him, he deserved to be shot, and said no more to him. The captain, lieutenant H--n of marines, the surgeon, and purser, always appear'd in arms on the beach, on the coming ashore of every boat, in order to prevent the people bringing any thing from the ship in a clandestine manner; they were so cautious of any thing being imbezzled, that they would not suffer the boats to go off and work by night, notwithstanding the moon, tides, and fairness of weather were more favourable to us by night than day; by this we omitted several opportunities of getting our provisions, and other useful things, which we shall shortly stand in great need of.

The 21st, continue to scuttle between decks, in getting necessaries out of the ship, found several men dead.

The 22d, the Indians brought us three sheep and some muscles. They are a people of a small stature, well shaped, of an olive complection, with black hair, in behaviour very civil, they have little clothes, except about their waists, notwithstanding the climate is very cold. They stay'd all night, it being very rainy weather, and has been ever since we have been here, the wind blowing from N. to N.W.

Saturday the 23d, the wind from the E.N.E. to north, fell abundance of snow, insomuch that the mountains are cover'd with it. It freezes very hard, and we find it extremely cold. The next day, the same weather, we went aboard, and scuttled for flour in the forehold.

The 25th, little wind at N.E. and frosty weather, went aboard again, and got out of the forehold eight barrels of flour, one cask of pease, with some brandy and wine. This day went to allowance, of half a pound of flour per man, and one piece of pork for three men, it being the first time of serving since on shore.

The 26th, we got out more casks of flour, one cask of oatmeal, with some brandy and wine. In the evening the Indians came with their wives, we gave the women hats, and the men breeches; they made signs as if they would bring more sheep.

On the 27th, we scuttled over the captain's store-room, got out several casks of rum and wine, and brought them ashore. This was the first time of the lieutenant's being between decks since the loss of the ship. The following day we went aboard, cut down and tost overboard the ship's awning, to make a deck for the long-boat.

Since the 27th, we have been employ'd in getting up the long-boat, and repairing the barge which had been stove ashore. Rainy weather.

On Wednesday, the 3d of June, hard gales of wind at N.N.W., with abundance of rain; deserted this day James Mitchel, carpenter's mate, John Russel, armourer, William Oram, carpenter's crew, Joseph King, John Redwood, boatswain's yeomen, Dennis O'Lawry, John Davis, James Roach, James Stewart, and William Thompson, seamen. Took up, along shore, one hogshead of brandy, and several things that drove out of the ship, a bale of cloth, hats, shoes, and other necessaries. An information was given, this day, by David Buckley, to the captain, that there was a design to blow him up, with the surgeon, and lieutenant H--n of marines. The train was actually found, laid by the deserters, to blow 'em up the night before they went off.

Thursday the 4th, we finished the boats, and shot several wild geese. Finding murmurings and discontents among the people, we secured the oars, and hawled up the boats, being apprehensive they would go away with them by night.

The 5th, we went on board the ship, found several casks of wine and brandy between decks, most part of the planks between decks gone, and some strakes to wind-ward started out, part of the upper deck blown up, the stumps of the masts and pumps risen five feet; brought ashore one cask of flour, with some stuff for the use of the long-boat; and two quarter casks of wine; the wind at S. by E.

Saturday the 6th, the wind at south and fair weather, we went aboard, got out of the hold eight casks of flour, two casks of wine, and a quarter cask and three hogsheads of brandy. The lieutenant went to the Indians, but could not find 'em, being inform'd by the deserters that they were gone.

On Sunday the 7th, we went aboard the ship, got out a cask of pork, two barrels of flour, started one pipe of wine, and brought it ashore, with a quarter cask of pease, some bales of cloth, and carpenter's stores. This day Mr Henry Cozens, midshipman, was confin'd by the captain; the fault alledg'd against him was drunkenness. We learn from Nicholas Griselham, seaman, who was present and near the captain all the time, that as Mr Cozens was rowling up a steep beach a cask of pease, he found it too heavy for him, and left off rowling; the captain seeing this, told him he was drunk, Mr Cozens reply'd, With what should I get drunk, unless it be with water? The captain then said, You scoundrel, get more hands, and rowl the cask up: Cozens called for more hands, but no people came; with that the captain struck him with his cane. Griselham likewise says, that Cozens talked to the captain about one Captain Sh--lv--k; but the words he does not remember. But the same night I heard Mr Cozens use very unbecoming language to the captain, telling him, That he was come into those seas to pay Sh--lv--k's debts, and also insolently added, Tho' Sh--lv--k was a rogue, he was not a fool, and by G-d, you are both. When he spoke this, he was a prisoner in the store-tent, and asked the captain, If he was to be kept there all night? On these provocations, the captain attempted to strike him again, but the centinel said, he should strike no prisoner of his. But Cozens endeavouring to stave a cask of brandy, was soon after released. This day got out of the ship several chests of wax candles of all sizes, bales of cloth, bales of stockings, shoes, with some clocks and mercantile wares, with which the ship was throng'd.

The 8th, Mr Cummins and myself went to the deserters; we find they were determined to go off to the northward; the reason of their stay is the want of craft to go off in. They now find themselves mistaken, they believed at first they were on the main, but are convinced they are four or five leagues from it, therefore they purpose to build a punt out of the wreck of the ship: They live on sea-weed and shell-fish, got up one cask of beef, which was brought on shore with a cask of brandy, found one cask of beef on the rocks.

On Tuesday the 9th, I went with the doctor's mate to the deserters, and spoke to William Oram, a carpenter, and a very useful man, desiring him to return, with a promise of pardon from the captain: In this affair I was obliged to act very secretly. To-day, Mr Cozens, the midshipman, had a dispute with the surgeon; the latter having some business in our tent, which, when he had done, on his going away, Mr Cozens followed him; they soon fell to blows, but the surgeon had so much the advantage of the midshipman, that he tied his hands behind him and left him. In the evening the captain sent for me and the carpenter to his tent: We found the captain, lieutenant, purser, surgeon, and lieutenant H----n of marines. Here we had a consultation, which was chiefly concerning the disturbances among the people, as well in our tent as in the rest. Mr Cummins and I assured the captain, that the people in our tent were generally very well affected to him, and that we never would engage in any mutiny against him, or any other officer that would act for the publick good, and his majesty's service: The captain said, he had no reason to suspect us, for we were the only two in the ship that he put any trust or confidence in. Strict orders were given the centinel to keep a good look-out, and have a watchful eye on the provisions. Notwithstanding all this precaution and care, there was one-third part of a barrel of flour and half a barrel of gunpowder taken away that night. It is to be observed, that this day's consultation was the first that Captain C----p ever had with his officers; had he sometimes consulted them aboard, we might probably have escaped our present unhappy condition.

Wednesday the 10th, this day, serving the provisions, the boatswain's servant, a Portuguese boy, talking bad English, and bringing in the allowance of wine, the boatswain, Mr Cozens, midshipman, and the cook his mess-mates, with some difficulty, understood by the boy's talk, that one of the men had his allowance stopped; Mr Cozens went to know the reason; the purser and he having some dispute two or three days before, the purser told him, when he asked for his wine, that he was come to mutiny, and without any farther ceremony, discharged a pistol at his head, and would have shot him, had he not been prevented by the cooper's canting the pistol with his elbow, at the instant of its going off; the captain and lieutenant H----n, hearing the discharge of a pistol, the latter ran out with a firelock, then called the captain out of his tent, telling him that Cozens was come to mutiny; the captain on this jumped out, asking where the villain was, clapped a cock'd pistol to Mr Cozen's cheek, and precipitately shot him, without asking any questions; the noise of the two pistols going off reached our tent; it was rainy weather, and not fit for gunning, so that we could not imagine the meaning of it; soon after we heard Mr Cozens was shot by the captain: The lieutenant came to call all hands to the captain: I asked if we must go armed, the lieutenant answered, Yes; but, on consideration, I thought better to go without arms: When we came to the captain, he acquainted us with what he had done, and told us he was still our commander. The captain, purser, surgeon, lieutenants H----n, E----rs, and F----ng of marines, being all armed, I said to the captain. Sir, you see we are disarmed; on this the captain dropped his firelock to the ground, saying, I see you are, and have only sent for you, to let you all know I am still your commander, so let every man go to his tent; accordingly every man obeyed him. In our tent, we had eighteen of the stoutest fellows that belonged to the ship, and I believe the captain, and the gentlemen above- mentioned, have some suspicion of Mr Cummins and myself, believing we can sway most of the seamen on shore: But I think this day we have given a proof of the sincerity of our intentions, and our detestation of mutiny, by not appearing in arms at the report of Mr Cozens being shot; we walked up with the captain, where we saw Mr Cozens with his elbow on the ground resting his right cheek on the palm of his hand, alive, and to appearance sensible, but speechless; the captain ordered him to the sick-tent, the surgeon's mate dressed his left cheek where he was shot, and felt a ball about three inches under his right eye; the surgeon refused dressing him: This we may impute to his having lately a quarrel with Mr Cozens, which has been already mentioned. The shooting of Mr Cozens was a very unhappy affair; The person whose allowance was stopped made no complaint to him, he was too officious in the business, and his preceding behaviour, and notorious disrespectful words to the captain, might probably make the captain suspect his design was mutiny; tho' this we must aver, that Mr Cozens neither on this, or any other occasion, appeared in arms since the loss of the ship. However, his fate laid the foundation of a great deal of mischief which afterwards followed.

Thursday the 11th, moderate gales at W.N.W. The carpenter employed in laying the blocks for the long-boat. Dr O----y, of the land forces, was desired to assist the surgeon's mate, to take the ball out of Mr Cozens's cheek, which he then was inclinable to do, but in the afternoon, finding it not agreeable to the captain, refused to go, as we are informed by the surgeon's mate, who desired some surgeon might be present, to be witness of the operation; the ball was taken out, and for some time supposed to be lost, but was afterwards found.

This day being the 12th, the carpenter finished the blocks for lengthening the long-boat: In the morning he went to the captain's tent for some bolts for the use of the long-boat, where he saw the surgeon at the medicine- chest, who asked him how that unfortunate creature did, meaning Mr Cozens; the carpenter told him, he had not seen him to-day: The surgeon then said he would have visited him, but the captain would not give him leave. This was looked on as an act of inhumanity in the captain, and contributed very much to his losing the affections of the people, whose opinion was, that as Mr Cozens was very strong and healthy, with proper assistance he might recover; the people did not scruple to say, that the captain would act a more honourable part to discharge another pistol at him, and dispatch him at once, than to deny him relief, and suffer him to languish in a cold wet place in pain and misery.

On the 13th, Mr Cozens being, to all outward appearance, likely to recover, desired he might be removed to our tent, which was his place of residence before this unhappy accident. We being unwilling to disoblige the captain, the carpenter and myself waited on him; we told him, we were come to ask a favour, hoping that he would have so much mercy and compassion on the unhappy man who was in the sick tent, as to permit us to remove him to his former lodging, but the captain answer'd, No, I am so far from it, that if he lives, I will carry him a prisoner to the commodore, and hang him.

On the 14th, went aboard the ship, but could do nothing, she working so very much, we brought ashore the fore-top sail yard; the boat went up the river, brought back abundance of geese and shaggs. Wind at west.

Monday the 15th, hard gales of wind at west, with rain and hail; drove ashore three barrels of flour and abundance of small stuff out of the ship; took up a-long shore several pieces of pork and beef: John Anderson, a seaman, walking round the rocks, and reaching after a piece of beef, slipping his footing, was drown'd, but taken up directly, and that night bury'd: Turn'd the boatswain out of our tent for breeding quarrels; his turbulent temper was so well known to the captain, that he express'd himself pleas'd at our turning him out, and said he was surprized we ever admitted him among us.

On the 7th, the carpenter at work on the long-boat: The surgeon's mate, this day took out of Mr Cozens's cheek a ball much flatted, and a piece of bone, supposed to be part of the upper jaw, which was desired by Mr Cozens to be deliver'd to me; I receiv'd it, with the first ball mention'd to have been lost.

Thursday the 18th, the carpenter cut the long-boat in two, and lengthen'd her eleven feet ten inches and half by the keel.

Sunday the 21st, went aboard the ship, but it being dangerous going about any thing, by reason of her working much, and a great sea tumbling in, the boats were employ'd in going about the rocks in search of subsistence.

The 22d, the carpenter went with the boat up the bay to seek the Indians, but saw nothing of them; at night the boat returned, the people having shot abundance of wildfowl.

The 23d, the lieutenant went with the boat, and found the Indians just come from the place where they catch seal; their canoes were loaded with seal, sheep, and oil.

Wednesday the 24th, departed this life, Mr Henry Cozens, midshipman, after languishing fourteen days with the wound he had received in his cheek: We bury'd him in as decent a manner as time, place, and circumstances would allow. There have died sundry ways since the ship first struck, forty-five men; seven have deserted from us, and still continue away; remain and now victual'd one hundred men.

Thursday the 25th, the wind at W.N.W. and rainy weather; saw the Indians coming towards us in their canoes, but the deserters settling where they took their habitation, when first we saw 'em, by their rowing, we thought they were design'd to go there; and knowing the deserters intended to take one of their canoes to go over the main, we therefore launch'd the yawl and went off to them; there were five canoes of 'em, laden with seal, shell- fish, and four sheep; they brought with 'em their wives and children, so that in all they were about fifty in number; they hawl'd their canoes up, and built four wigg whims, which they cover'd with the bark of trees and seal-skins; we imagined by this they had an intention to settle with us; they are a very simple and inoffensive people, of a low stature, flat- nos'd, with their eyes sunk very deep in their heads; they live continually in smoak, and are never without a fire, even in their canoes; they have nothing to cover their nakedness, but a piece of an old blanket, which they throw over their shoulders: We always see 'em in this manner, notwithstanding we cloath 'em whenever they come to us. By the crosses set up in many parts of the land, one would think they had some notion of the Romish religion: We can't make 'em understand us by any speech, nor by our signs: We show'd 'em a looking-glass; when they saw the representation of themselves, they seem'd amaz'd, and shew'd a thousand antick gestures, and when once they beheld themselves in the looking-glass, they could hardly be prevail'd on to look off.

On Sunday the 28th, in the afternoon, about twelve of the Indian women went off in their canoes: We thought they were gone to get muscles, but soon saw 'em diving, which we imagin'd was for pieces of beef or pork that come out of the wreck; but, when they came ashore, we found they had been only diving for sea-eggs. The women among those people seem to take more pains for the provisions of life than the men; the latter having little to do but to provide wood, and indulge themselves by the fire, while the women go every tide a fishing. To-day we kill'd two Indian sheep.

Monday the 29th, launch'd the yawl to go with the Indians to shew us where they get the muscles; but being too late for the tide, we came away without any: The captain sent to our tent two quarters of mutton; the carpenter daily at work on the long-boat. Winds variable.

On the 30th, the Indian women went again for sea-eggs, and brought a great quantity, with abundance of white maggots, about three quarters of an inch in length, and in circumference the bigness of a wheat-straw. These women keep an incredible time under water, with a small basket in their hands, about the size of the women's work-baskets in England, into which they put whatever they get in their diving. Among these people the order of nature seems inverted; the males are exempted from hardships and labour, and the women are meer slaves and drudges. This day one of our seamen died: We observe, the Indians are very watchful of the dead, sitting continually near the above-mention'd corpse, and carefully covering him, every moment looking on the face of the deceas'd with abundance of gravity: At the burial their deportment was grave and solemn, seeing the people with their hats off during the service, they were very attentive and observant, and continued so till the burial was over: They have nothing, as I have said before, but a blanket to cover 'em, and the boys and girls are quite naked, notwithstanding we felt it as cold here, as in the hardest frosts in England, and almost always rainy.

Wednesday, July the 1st, employ'd in cutting timbers in the woods for the long-boat; rainy weather, the wind at S.W. the Indian women diving for food as before.

Thursday the 2d, last night the store-tent was broke open, and robb'd of a great deal of flour.

Monday the 6th, hard gales of wind, with showers of rain and hail, came ashore from the ship one cask of beef, with several of the lower-deck carlings, and plank of the upper and lower-deck beams, and, what was reckon'd very odd, the cabin-bell came ashore, without its being fasten'd to any wood, or any one thing of the ship near it.

Tuesday the 7th, hard gales of wind, with hail, rain, and lightning: The Indian women went out as usual in their canoes to dive for sea-eggs, and brought ashore abundance of 'em; they jump overboard out of their canoe about a mile from shore, they take the handle of their baskets, which I have already described, between their teeth, diving five or six fathom water; their agility in diving, and their continuance under water for so long a time as they generally do, will be thought impossible by persons who have not been eye-witnesses of it; they seem as amphibious to us as seals and alligators, and rarely make use of any provisions but what they get out of the sea.

Wednesday the 8th, launch'd the yawl and went on board, saw several casks, some of meat, and some of liquor, the decks and sides abaft drove out, and entirely gone, the larboard-side abaft drove on shore; about two miles and a half from the tent a cask of liquor was found, and broach'd by the person who found it, which was allow'd to be a great fault; he likewise broach'd a cask of meat, which should have been preserv'd to carry away with us.

On Thursday the 9th, the Indians with their wives and children launch'd their canoes, and went away, 'tis believ'd they wanted provisions, such as seal, they are indeed never settled long in a place; it was said some of our people wanted to have to do with their wives, which was the reason of their going away so soon. To-day we saw several things drive out of the ship up the lagoon, as the stump of the main-mast, one of the pumps, with one of the gun-carriages. Wind at N.W.

Friday the 10th, went aboard the ship, found her broke asunder just at the gang-way, saw the cables out to the windward, but could not see any casks of liquor or provisions, went to shorter allowance of flour, one pound for three men per diem. Last night the tent was robbed of half a barrel of flour. Orders were given by the captain to watch the store-tent by night; all the officers, the marine included, with the mates and midshipmen, were oblig'd to watch, the captain and carpenter alone excus'd, the carpenter being every day at work on the long-boat.

Friday the 17th, for this week past hard gales of wind, with rain and hail as usual. Last Wednesday the ship parted her upper works from the lower deck: Launch'd the boat and went off to the wreck, but could do nothing, went up the bay, took a quarter cask, about three parts full of wine, saw the Indian dogs ashore, but no people.

Saturday the 18th, launched the boat, sent her to the wreck, and brought ashore one cask of beef, it is believed some guns were heard from the sea: The watch reported they have heard them two nights past. Great disturbances among the people. Wind at E.N.E. and frosty weather.

Sunday the 19th, launch'd the boat, sent her to the wreck, hook'd a cask supposed to be beef, but when towed ashore, we found it contained nothing but hatches; we took up along ashore, abundance of checque shirts in dozens, also caps, bales of cloth, and pieces of beef and pork.

Wednesday the 22d. This day began to build a house to dwell in, finding our stay here will be much longer than we at first expected.

The 23d, took up along shore several pieces of beef and pork, shirts, caps, frocks, trowsers, pieces of cloth, with other serviceable things, and wax candles of all sizes.

Saturday the 25th, hard showers of rain and hail, the wind at north. Shot several sea-gulls, geese, hawks, and other birds: The carpenter had this day given him by one of the people, a fine large rock crab, it being the first of the kind we ever saw here.

Sunday the 26th, moderate gales and variable winds, with rain and hail: Most part of our people eat a weed that grows on the rocks; it is a thin weed of a dark green colour, and called by the seamen, Slaugh. It is surprizing how the black currant trees, which are here in great plenty, have budded within these three days. Began thatching our new house with bushes: To-day we caught a fine rock-fish; this is the first fish we have seen alive since our being here. Observing our new town, we find there are no less than 18 houses in it.

Monday the 27th, launched the boat, went to the wreck, but found nothing; close weather, the wind still at north: Rose the sheets for erecting a tent over the long-boat to keep the men from being exposed to the continual rains. This day we finished the thatching of our new house.

Wednesday the 29th, fresh gales at N.W. with rain; sure no men ever met with such weather as we have in this climate: To-day we walked in the woods to take some notice of the trees, which we find to be very much like our beech in England; but the trees and bushes are in general of a soft free nature, and with a spicy bark.

Thursday the 30th, wind still at N.W. and rainy weather. This day departed this life, Nathaniel Robinson, the last private man of the invalids; there are now only two left, viz. the captain and surgeon. Being at the honourable Mr B----n's tent, I found him looking in Sir John Narborough's voyage to these seas: This book I desired the loan of, he told me it was Captain C----p's, and did not doubt but he would lend it me; this favour I requested of the captain, and it was presently granted. Carefully perusing this book, I conceived an opinion that our going through the Streights of Magellan for the coast of Brasil, would be the only way to prevent our throwing ourselves into the hands of a cruel, barbarous, and insulting enemy: Our long-boat, when finished, can be fit for no enterprize, but the preservation of life: As we cannot act offensively, we ought to have regard to our safety and liberty. This evening proposals were offered to the officers concerning our going through the Streights of Magellan; which at this time they seem to approve of.

Friday the 31st, hard gales at N.W. with rain: This day was taken up along shore, an otter just killed, but by what animal we could not tell; it was bleeding fresh when taken up, and proved a dainty repast. Came ashore the ship's beams, with several things of great value.

Saturday, August the 1st, hard gales at N.W. with rain and hail. This day put to an allowance of flour, one quarter of a pound a man per diem, and one pint of wine: Those who like brandy, to have half a pint in lieu of wine. We have now in a manner nothing to live on but what we pick'd up along the shore: The ship's company agree to go through the Streights of Magellan.

Sunday the 2d, this morning found the store-tent robbed of brandy, filled up all the ullage casks, picked up about the rocks abundance of clams, a shell-fish not unlike our cockles: These fish are at present the support of our life. The people are now very quarrelsome and discontented.

Monday the 3d, this day having fine weather (which is a prodigy in this place) launched the boat, and went about the rocks and islands on discovery. This day we also moved into our new house, it being a very commodious habitation, exceedingly well thatched; in this dwelling there are cabins for fourteen people, which are covered inside and out with broad cloth: This is a rich house, and, in some parts of the world, would purchase a pretty estate; there are several hundred yards of cloth about it, besides the curtains and linings, which are shalloon and camblet; in short, considering where we are, we cannot desire a better habitation. The people fall into disputes concerning the boat, where we are to proceed with her, when she is built and ready for going off. It is the opinion of the navigators, that going through the Streights of Magellan is the safest and only way to preserve life and liberty: The artists, who have worked the bearings and distance, are very pressing that it should be moved to the captain, purposing to have their reasons drawn up, and signed by all who are willing to go that way, and to be delivered to the captain for his opinion; upon this there was a paper drawn up, and as soon as the people heard it, they came flocking to sign first, crying all aloud for the Streights, seeming overjoyed, as if they were going to England directly, without any affliction or trouble, but there must be a great deal of hardships to be encountered before we arrive at our native country: This paper was signed by all the officers on the spot, except the captain, lieutenant, purser, and surgeon, and by all the seamen in general, except the captain's steward.

Tuesday the 4th, at the time of serving at the storehouse, about twelve o'clock, I went to the captain, with the master, carpenter, and boatswain, and read to him the paper; he answered he would consider of it, and give his answer: Here follows a copy of the paper signed:--

"We whose names are under-mentioned, do, upon mature consideration, as we have met with so happy a deliverance, think it the best, surest, and most safe way for the preservation of the body of people on the spot, to proceed through the Streights of Magellan for England. Dated at a desolate island on the coast of Patagonia, in the latitude of 47 deg. 00 min. south, and west longitude from the meridian of London 81 deg. 40 min. in the South Seas, this 2d day of August, 1741.

John Bulkeley, gunner.
John Cummins, carpenter.
Thomas Clark, master.
John King, boatswain.
John Jones, master's mate.
John Snow, ditto.
Robt. Elliot, surgeon's mate.
The Hon. John Byron, midshipman.
Alexander Campbell, ditto.
Isaac Morris, ditto.
Thomas Maclean, cook.
John Mooring, boatswain's mate.
Henry Stevens, seaman.
Benjamin Smith, seaman.
John Montgomery, seaman.
John Duck, seaman.
John Hayes, seaman.
James Butler, seaman.
John Hart, seaman.
James Roach, seaman.
Job Barns, seaman.
John Petman, seaman.
William Callicutt, seaman.
Richard Phipps, boatswain's mate.
John Young, cooper.
Richard Noble, quarter-master.
William Rose, ditto.
William Hervey, quarter-gunner.
John Bosman, seaman.
William Moore, ditto.
Samuel Stook, ditto.
Samuel Cooper, ditto.
David Buckley, quarter-gunner.
George Smith, seaman.
Peter Deleroy, seaman.
James M'Cawle, seaman.
John George, seaman.
John Shorclan, seaman.
Richard East, seaman.
William Lane, seaman.
William Oram, seaman.
Moses Lewis, seaman.
Nicholas Griselham, seaman.

"We whose names are under-mentioned, have had sufficient reasons, from the above-mentioned people, to consent to go this way. Signed by

Captain Robert Pemberton, commander of his majesty's land forces.

William Fielding, lieutenant
Robert Ewers, lieutenant

Wednesday the 5th, this day I went with the master, carpenter, master's mates, and midshipmen, to the captain, to acquaint him with what was done, and resolved on, and farther told him, it was a duty incumbent on us to preserve life before any other interest. He answered, Gentlemen, I desire time to consider of it, and will give you my final determination; on which we took our leave, and came away.

Thursday the 6th, hard gales at W.S.W. and rainy weather. At noon we went with Mr Cummins to Captain P--mb--rt--n's tent, to have some farther conference for our future deliverance: While we were there, the captain sent his service to Captain C----p for a pair of pocket-pistols, his own property, which had been refused him on his request some time before. The servant was answered, by the captain's favourite and prime minister the steward, The captain is ill, and I can't let you have 'em. This answer not being satisfactory to Captain P--mb--rt--n, he sent a second time, and insisted on the delivery of his pistols, but was answered, they could not be come at before the captain was up; but a little time after it was judged proper to send Captain P--mb--rt--n his pistols. From Captain P--mb--rt-- n's we went to the L----t's tent; while there, the L----t was sent to Captain C----p, about an hour after the carpenter and myself were sent for; when we came to him, he said, Gentlemen, I have maturely considered the contents of your paper, so far as it regards the preservation of the people on the spot: This paper has given me a great deal of uneasiness, insomuch that I have not closed my eyes till eight o'clock this morning, for thinking of it, but, I think, you have not weighed the thing rightly; do you know we are above one hundred and sixty leagues distant S.W. from the Streights of Magellan, with the wind against us? Then think on the distance to be run afterwards on the other side the Streights, with the wind always against us, and where no water is to be had. I answered, Sir, you say it is above one hundred and sixty leagues to the Streights, but let the navigators work it, and they will find it not above ninety leagues; yourself and lieutenant are undoubtedly navigators and judges, therefore will certainly find it as I say. Mr Cummins acquainted him, accordingly to his calculation, the vessel would carry a month's water, at a quart a man per diem; and, sir, do you consider, after running along shore to the northward this side the land, that we have one hundred leagues to run right out to sea to the island of Juan Ferdinandez, and five hundred chances to one if we meet the commodore there, or any of the squadron, nor do we know but the commodore may have shared the same fate with ourselves, or perhaps worse? The captain answered, It's a thousand to one if we see the commodore at Juan Ferdinandez; for, gentlemen, to let you into a secret, which I never discovered before, we shall meet him at Baldavia, his orders were from ---- to go there with the squadron, it being a place of little or no force. Mr Cummins answered, Sir, 'tis agreed, the commodore is at Baldavia, but we make it in our bargain, when we go from hence, that we will put ashore at every place when we want water, whenever the weather will permit, without any obstruction. The captain replied, There is no occasion for that, we will water at the islands, and take a vessel going along. Mr Cummins said, Sir, what shall we do with a vessel, without provisions, for ninety souls? The captain answered, We will take a vessel loaded with flour from Chili, there being a great many trading vessels that way, and then we will proceed through the Streights of Magellan. Mr Cummins said, How shall we take a vessel without guns, not having any but muskets, and our enemies know, as well as ourselves, that we have a squadron in these seas, therefore, undoubtedly are well armed, and keep a good look-out? The captain's answer to this was, What are our small arms for, but to board 'em? The carpenter said, Sir, if a shot should take the boat under water, it would not be in my power to stop a leak of that kind, where the plank is so thin, that in some places it is not above three quarters of an inch thick. The captain then said, Gentlemen; I am agreeable to any thing, and willing to go any way, for the preservation of the people; but at the same time would have you consider of it, the wind being always against us on the other side the land, and we have above seven hundred leagues to the river Plate. I answered the captain, 'Tis not above five hundred and ninety leagues from hence to Cape St Antonio's; and, as I have before said, let the navigators work it, and reason take place, which is what we chiefly desire to be governed by: Another inducement we have to go the way proposed is, that we may be assured of water and provision. I allow that, says the captain, and we may save our own; but how do you know whether we may not meet enemies in the Streights? I replied to the captain, We can have no enemies to encounter there, but Indians in their canoes, and those we can master at our pleasure. The captain then seemed to countenance our opinion again, and said, When we come to St Julian's we shall be sure of salt in plenty for our provisions, without which our fowls will not keep above two or three days: Besides, when we come to the river Plate, we may meet with a prize, they not being acquainted with any English vessel like ours, with schooner's sails, by which means we may run up the river and take a larger vessel: If we fail here, we may go ashore, and get what cattle we please, but what business have we at the Rio Grand? We must go to the Rio Janeiro. I told him, we should be obliged to stop at every place along shore for supplies; at St Catharine's the governor will give us a certificate, so that we shall be known to be the people that were there in the squadron. The captain said, That's true, and I can get bills of credit in any part of Brazil; besides, the people may be separated, some in the Flota, and some in other ships, with less hands we may go to Barbadoes. Mr Cummins told him, we might venture to England with, twelve hands. Yes, you may, says the captain, with thirty. It is to be observed, during all this debate, the lieutenant spoke not a word. The carpenter asking him the reason of his silence in all the consultation, he answered, I'll give my opinion hereafter. The captain said, I knew nothing of his being acquainted with it, till Mr Bulkeley told me yesterday; but at the same time, Mr B----s, I expect, you will be the first that will sign the paper. I imagined the captain meant our paper, and immediately answered, with some warmth, As he had refused signing at first, and at the same time agreed to the proposal, that I had signed so close, that there was no room left for his name, and now it was too late for him to sign. The captain surprized me, by saying, I don't mean your paper; I told him, Any other, which should be contrary to ours, would never be signed by us. Mr Cummins said to the captain, Sir, 'tis all owing to you that we are here; if you had consulted your officers, we might have avoided this misfortune, considering the condition the ship was in, she was not fit to come in with the land, all our men being sick, and not above three seamen in a watch; suppose the mast had gone by the board, as was every moment expected. The captain made answer, Gentlemen, you do not know my orders; there never were any so strict given to a commander before, and had I but two men living besides myself, I must, and was obliged to go to the first rendezvous, which was the island of Nostra Senhora di Socora: I was obliged to go there at all events. I made answer to this, Sir, if that is the case, it seems plain the thing was designed we should be here: But, sir, I am of opinion, notwithstanding the commodore had his orders from ---- to go with the squadron to Baldavia, that at the same time those orders were so far discretional, that if the squadron was disabled, care was to be taken not to endanger his majesty's ships. Yes, that (says the captain) was settled at St Julian's: Notwithstanding what has been said, gentlemen, I am agreeable to take any chance with you, and to go any way; but would have you consider of it, and defer your determination till all is ready to go off the spot. I then told the captain, You have known, sir, from the time you saw the proposal, that the people are uneasy, and the work is at a stand, and in this situation things will be until this affair is settled; therefore the sooner you resolve the better. The captain replied, I design to have a consultation among my officers: Have you any more objections to make? I answered, Yes, sir, one more; which is, when you go from hence, you are not to weigh, come to an anchor, or alter course, without consulting your officers. The captain said, Gentlemen, I was your commander till the ship parted, or as long as any stores or provisions were getting out of her. We told him, we had always taken care to obey his orders in the strictest manner, which he allowed us to have done; and he added, You were the officers that I placed my whole dependence in. We answered, Sir, we will support you with our lives, as long as you suffer reason to rule: And then we parted. After this consultation, the captain seldom came out of his tent, which occasioned. great disturbances among the people.

Friday the 7th, the wind at W.N.W. with rain. This day the navigators worked the bearings and distance along shore, from one place to another, to know the true distance: Hereupon it was agreed to proceed through the Streights of Magellan, according to Sir John Narborough's directions, which give us great encouragement to go that way. Captain P----n drawed his men up, and dismissed 'em again. Great uneasiness among the people.

Saturday the 8th, this morning went to the lieutenant, for him to acquaint the captain all his officers were ready to give sufficient reasons for going through the Streights of Magellan, desiring a consultation might be held in the afternoon. At three o'clock the captain sent for me and Mr Cummins; when we came, the master and boatswain were sent for, but they were gone in search of subsistence, as limpetts, muscles, &c. The captain said, Gentlemen, I don't doubt but you have considered upon the business you are come about; therefore I am determined to take my fate with you, or where the spirit of the people leads, and shall use my best endeavours for their preservation; but I am afraid of meeting contrary winds, for after the sun has crossed the Line we must expect to meet 'em. I made answer, By all accounts the wind hangs from N.W. to the S.W. above three parts of the year, which is in our favour. Mr Cummins told him, There was fresh water to be got as well on one coast as the other, and if Sir John Narborough's treatment was so ill in a profound peace, what must we expect in a time of open war? The captain said, I am afraid, very bad. Then Mr Cummins spoke in this manner to the captain: Sir, I always took you for an honourable gentleman, and I believe you to be such; on your honour, sir, I beg you will give the true sentiments of your mind, whether through the Streights is not the surest and safest way to preserve our lives, notwithstanding we have a thousand difficulties to encounter with any way? The captain answered, I really think going to the northward is the safest way; for suppose we should be drove off to sea, when on the other side the land, what is to be done then? I said, Sir, it is our business to keep the shore, to prevent all accidents that may happen that way. Then Lieutenant B----s made an objection, Suppose you have the wind blowing right in, and a tumbling sea, as to endanger the boat, what are we to do? I made answer, Sir, if you remember when we were riding at St Julian's, it blowed a very hard gale of wind right in from the sea; yet, even then, the sea did not run so high as to endanger a boat riding at anchor: Another instance I bring you from St Catherine's, when we had such hard gales that the Trial lost her masts, and the Pearl separated from the squadron; yet, at that time, there was no sea comparable to what we have met with this side the land. The lieutenant allowed this to be fact. Then the captain said, I will allow you to have water at Port Desire; but do you consider the lengthening your distance, by keeping along shore, and rounding every bay, and some of those bays are very deep? I told him, that undoubtedly there was water all along the coast, and that we had no business to round the bays, but to steer from one head-land to the other. Then Lieutenant B----s made a second objection, Suppose we are forced into a bay, and shoal water? I answered, We should always have a boat a-head, and our draught of water will not be above four or five feet at most; and if we should be so unfortunate as to lose our boat, we must keep the lead a-going. The l----t replied, That was true, and there could not be a great deal of difficulty in it. This was the only time the l----t ever spoke in public on the affair; he always allowed, when absent from the captain, that going through the Streights was the best way; but in the captain's presence he sided with him, and was for going to the northward.

Sunday the 9th, at three this afternoon, I went with Mr Cummins, the master, and boatswain, as desired, to the captain, to give him our opinions, believing going through the Streights the surest way to preserve life; it was therefore agreed, That if the wind did not set in against us, at the sun's crossing the Line, that the captain would go that way. The captain asked every man's opinion, and found the people unanimous for the Streights of Magellan. To-day being fair weather, launched the yawl to go a fowling, shot several geese, ducks, shaggs, and sea-pies. Heeled the long- boat for planking.

Monday the 10th, wind at N. and N.N.W. rainy weather. Eat slaugh and sea- weed fryed with tallow-candles, which we picked up along shore; this we reckon at present exceeding good eating, having nothing to live on but a quarter of a pound of flour a man per day, and what we can get off the rocks: For many days the weather has been so bad that we have not been able to stir abroad, though almost starved for want of food.

Tuesday the 11th, hard gales at S.W. with heavy rains. This afternoon the people came in arms to acquaint us of the stores being robbed; they therefore wanted our consent for moving the stores to our tent; on which we desired they would desist from offering any violence: We told 'em of the ill consequence of mutiny, which, as we always abhorred, we took all imaginable care to prevent: The people, on our persuasions, instantly quitted their arms. The captain presently sent for me and Mr Cummins, to acquaint us with what had happened: He told us the purser, accidentally coming by, saw the prisoner Rowland Crussett, marine, crawling from the bushes, and from under the store tent, and found on him upwards of a day's flour for ninety souls, with one piece of beef under his coat, and three pieces more, which were concealed in the bushes, to carry off when an opportunity offered; and the sentry, Thomas Smith, his mess-mate, a marine, undoubtedly was privy to the robbery. The captain farther said, We have nothing to do with them; but I shall send to Captain P----n, to insist on a court-martial: I really think that for robbing the store-tent (which, in our present circumstances, is starving the whole body of people) the prisoners deserve death. This was not only the captain's opinion, but indeed the sentiments of every person present. After we parted from the captain, we were sent for by Captain P----n: He acquainted us, he would go as far as the martial law would allow him, and in conjunction with the sea- officers: I look (said he) on the l----t as nothing, and the c----n in the same light: As for you two, (meaning the gunner and carpenter) I confide in, and shall have regard to your opinions. When the articles of war were read, we found their crime did not touch life, but they were to suffer corporal punishment. Whilst Mr Cummins was laying open the nature of their guilt, and the ill consequence of lenity in the circumstances we were in, I proposed a way next to death, which was, if judged proper by Captain P----n and Captain C----p, to carry 'em off to an island where the ship parted, there being muscles, limpetts, and clams in abundance, and no want of water, and there to be left till we should be ready for sailing; and, to strike a terror in all for the future, that if any man should be guilty of the like offence, without any respect of person, he should share the same fate. This proposal was approved of by both the captains. At night Lieutenant B----n surprised us with a new kind of proposal we little dreamt of, which was, to have a proper place of devotion to perform divine service in every sabbath-day: For this sacred office, our tent was judged the most commodious place. The duty of public prayer had been entirely neglected on board, though every seaman pays fourpence per month towards the support of a minister; yet devotion, in so solemn a manner, is so rarely performed, that I know but one instance of it during the many years I have belonged to the navy. We believe religion to have the least share in this proposal of the lieutenant. If our tent should be turned into a house of prayer, and this project takes, we may, perhaps, in the midst of our devotion, be surprised, and our arms taken, from us, in order to frustrate our designs, and prevent our return to England through the Streights of Magellan, or any other way.

Wednesday the 12th, hard gales from S.W. to W. with heavy showers of hail and rain. Served out provisions today, a piece of beef for four men; some time past we have had but a quarter of a pound of flour per man per diem, and three pieces of beef: We live chiefly on muscles, limpitts, and clams, with saragraza and thromba; one is a green broad weed, common on the rocks in England; the other is a round sea-weed, so large, that a man can scarce grasp it; it grows in the sea, with broad leaves; this last we boil, the saragraza we fry in tallow; in this manner we support life: Even these shell-fish and weeds we get with great difficulty; for the wind, the rain, and coldness of the climate in this season, are so extremely severe, that a man will pause some time whether he shall stay in his tent and starve, or go out in quest of food.

Friday the 14th, very hard gales at W. and N.W., with showers of rain and hail, which beat with such violence against a man's face, that he can hardly withstand it; however, one of our mess-mates to-day shot three gulls and a hawk, which gave us a very elegant repast. This day was held a court- martial on the sentry who is believed confederate with the marine that robbed the store-tent: sentence was passed on them to receive six hundred lashes each: Captain C----p not thinking the punishment adequate to the crime, cut 'em short of their allowance, so that they have now but half the provisions they had before: The day following the offenders received two hundred lashes each, as part of their punishment. We hauled the long-boat higher up, for fear the sea should wash the blocks from under her. We have found a new way of managing the slaugh; we fry it in thin batter with tallow, and use it as bread.

Sunday the 16th, fresh gales of wind at S.W. with heavy showers of hail: The people generally complain of a malady in their eyes; they are in great pain, and can scarce see to walk about. The last tide flowed nine feet perpendicular; to-day we picked up shell-fish in abundance, with, pieces of beef and pork. The prisoners received two hundred lashes more.

Tuesday the 18th, this day the carpenter, who has all along been indefatigable in working about the long-boat, saw one of the seamen cutting up an anchor-stock for firewood, which had been designed for a particular use for the long-boat; at sight of the fellow's folly he could not contain himself: This affair, added to the little concern and intolerable indifference that appeared in the generality of the people, for some time impaired his understanding, and made him delirious; all possible methods are used to restore him, as he is the only man, who, through the assistance of Providence, can compleat the means of our deliverance.

Wednesday the 19th, the carpenter was so much recovered, that he went to work as usual; at night the lieutenant acquainted us, that the captain desired to speak with the carpenter and me to-morrow at noon, to consult what should be done with the two prisoners, having received but four hundred lashes out of the six, to which they were sentenced by a court- martial, the other two hundred being remitted by their own officers.

Thursday the 20th, we waited on the captain, who acquainted us with what the lieutenant had mentioned last night relating to the prisoners: We told him the people were very uneasy about this mitigation of the punishment indicted on them by a court-martial; therefore it was agreed they should provide for themselves as well as they could, but to have no sort of provisions out of the store-tent for the future.

Saturday, the 22d, we begun upon several contrivances to get provisions, such as building punts, cask-boats, leather-boats, and the like.

On Sunday the 23d, the store-tent was again robbed, and, on examination, was found a deficiency of twelve days brandy for ninety men: The lieutenant, myself, and carpenter, went to the captain to consult some way which might effectually prevent those villainous practices for the future: The captain desired us to make a nice inquiry into this robbery, being determined to inflict the severest punishment on the offenders; though it would give him the greatest concern if any innocent person should suffer. This day we confined one of the sentinels for being drunk on his post; the day following the boatswain gave us information of the persons who had robbed the tent; they were two sentinels, Smith and Butler; those very persons were the first who insisted that the seamen, as well as themselves, should watch the store-tent; their own officers, as yet, have brought them to no examination: We have also information that the purser holds frequent conversation with the rebels, contrary to all the laws of the navy, supplying them with liquors in abundance, to the great distress of his majesty's faithful subjects, who have but half a pint per day to subsist on. There are now great disturbances among the people concerning going to the northward; they believe Captain C----p never intended to return to England by his proposing this way, in opposition to the opinion of all the navigators, who have given reasons for going through the Streights of Magellan. There is a sort of a party rage among the people, fomented by a kind of bribery that has more influence on the seamen than money; there are some daily bought off by rum, and other strong liquors. Unless a stop is put to these proceedings, we shall never go off the spot.

Tuesday the 25th, this day felt four great earthquakes, three of which were very terrible; notwithstanding the violent shocks and tremblings of the earth, we find no ground shifted. Hard gales of wind at north, with heavy showers of rain.

Thursday the 27th, the disturbances increase among the people; we plainly see there is a party raised to go to the northward; we went to the lieutenant, and consulted with him what was to be done in the present exigence; myself being reckoned the projector of the scheme for going through the Streights, was threatened to be shot by Noble the quarter- master: After having some discourse with the lieutenant, he told me, If I would draw up a paper for the captain to sign, in order to satisfy the people, that he would go to the southward, and every officer to have a copy of it, to justify himself in England, it would be as proper a method as we could take. The paper was immediately drawn up in these words, viz.

"Whereas upon a general consultation, it has been agreed to go from this place through the Streights of Magellan, for the coast of Brazil, in our way for England: We do, notwithstanding, find the people separating into parties, which must consequently end in the destruction of the whole body; and as also there have been great robberies committed on the stores, and every thing is now at a stand, therefore, to prevent all future frauds and animosities, we are unanimously agreed to proceed as above-mentioned."

This paper was delivered to the lieutenant, who said that he was sure the captain would sign it, but in case of refusal he should be confined for shooting Mr Cozens, and he would take the command on himself: And, to prevent further disturbances, the purser, as he much conversed with the rebels, it is agreed by the body of officers to send him off the island, for acting so contrary to his duty, in contempt of the articles of war, the laws of his country, and the known rules of the navy. It was likewise agreed, that any person who engaged himself in raising parties, should be disarmed. By this day's proceedings, we thought the lieutenant a gentleman of resolution, but the words and actions of people do not always concur.

Friday the 28th, to-day the officers and people all appeared in arms. The master, boatswain, gunner, and carpenter, with Mr J----s, mate, and Mr C----ll, midshipman, went into the captain's tent, the lieutenant being with him. As soon as the officers were seated, a consultation was held concerning Smith and Butler robbing the store-tent, they were sentenced to be transported to the main, or some island. As soon as this affair was over, we talk'd to the captain of the uneasiness among the people, that there had been a long time a visible inquietude among 'em, and that we could not help seeing there were schemes form'd to obstruct our design of going to the southward. The captain answer'd, Gentlemen, it is time enough to think of this when we are ready to go off; have not I told you before that I do not care which way I go, southward or northward? I will take my fate with you. Everybody now expected the lieutenant to reply, especially after the zeal he express'd himself with the day before; but he sat speechless, without any regard to the welfare of the people, or to his own proposals. Finding he did not move in the affair, I took out the paper which was agreed to by the lieutenant and the rest of the officers, and read it to the captain, and ask'd him to sign it, which he strenuously oppos'd, and seem'd very much enrag'd that it should be propos'd to him. Upon this we dropt the matter, and began to discourse concerning the provisions: We thought it necessary that ten weeks subsistence should be secur'd to carry with us, and that the liquor should be buried under ground, but he gave us no answer. Finding no relief here, we went to Captain P----n's tent to consult with him what we should do in the present exigence. On our coming out from the captain we saw a flag hoisted on Captain P----n's tent, the captain himself seated in a chair, surrounded by the people. On seeing this, all the officers present at the consultation, except the lieutenant, went over to Captain P----n. Here it was agreed, in case the captain persisted to refuse signing the paper, to take the command from him, and to give it the lieutenant, according to the lieutenant's own proposal. At the same time Caplain P----n told the people he would stand by 'em with his life, in going through the Streights of Magellan, the way propos'd in the paper. The people gave three cheers, crying aloud for England. The captain hearing the noise, got out of bed to his tent door, and call'd the people, enquiring what they wanted, then sent for all the officers: He was then told since he refused signing the paper, and had no regard to the safety of our provisions, the people unanimously agreed to take the command from him, and transfer it to the lieutenant. Hearing this, with an exalted voice, Captain C----p says, Who is he that will take the command from me? addressing himself to the lieutenant, Is it you, sir? The lieutenant reply'd, No, sir. The terror of the captain's aspect intimidated the lieutenant to that degree, that he look'd like a ghost. We left him with the captain, and return'd to Captain P----n's tent, to acquaint him of the lieutenant's refusing the command. We had not been long here before Captain C----p sent for us. I was the first person call'd for; at my entering his tent, I saw him seated on a chest, with a cock'd pistol on his right thigh; observing this, I desir'd Mr J----s, who was the mate he always rely'd on for navigation, to tell the captain I did not think proper to come before a cock'd pistol: Notwithstanding I was arm'd I drew back, altho' I had my pistol-cock'd, and there were several men near me arm'd with muskets. The captain's personal bravery no man doubted of, his courage was excessive, and made him rash and desperate; his shooting Mr Cozens was a fatal proof of it, he was grown more desperate by this unhappy action, and was observ'd since seldom to behave himself with any composure of mind. It is a piece of human prudence to retreat from a man in a phrenzy, because he who does not value his own life, has another man's in his power. I had no desire of falling by the hand of Captain C----p, and should be greatly disturb'd to be compelled, for my own preservation, to discharge a pistol at a gentleman against whom I never had any spleen, and who was my commander. When Mr J----s acquainted him with what I desired him, the captain threw his pistol aside, and came out of his tent; he told the people he would go with them to the southward; he desired to know their grievances, and he would redress them: They all call'd out for their sea- store of provisions to be secur'd, and the rest equally divided. Here the captain shew'd all the conduct and courage imaginable; he was a single man against a multitude, all of 'em dissatisfy'd with him, and all of 'em in arms: He told 'em the ill consequence of sharing the provisions, that it was living to-day and starving to-morrow; but the people were not to be satisfy'd, the officers had now no authority over 'em, and they were some time deaf to their persuasions; nay, it was with difficulty that they could dissuade 'em from pulling down the store-tent, and taking away the provisions by force; they remov'd the provisions out of the store-tent, then fell to digging a hole to bury the brandy; the sea-store to be secur'd, the remainder to be immediately shar'd. Had this been comply'd with, the consequences might have been very terrible; however, to pacify 'em in some shape, it was agreed, that every man should have a pint of brandy per day, which, by calculation, would last 'em three weeks. On this they seem'd very easy, and went to their respective tents. The captain told his officers that he would act nothing contrary to what was agreed on for the welfare and safety of the community. Finding the captain in a temper of mind to hearken to reason, I said to him, sir, I think it my duty to inform you that I am not the person whom you imagine to be the principal in this affair. The captain answer'd, how can I think otherwise? I reply'd, Sir, the paper I read to you was your lieutenant's projection: There sits the gentleman, let him disown it if he can. The captain turning himself to the lieutenant, says, Mr Bulkeley has honestly clear'd himself. We then drank a glass of wine, and took our leaves. At night the captain sent for Mr Cummins and me to sup with him; we were the only officers present with him: When I was seated, I said, Sir, I have my character at stake, from drawing back from your cock'd pistol; had I advanc'd, one of us must have dropt. The captain answer'd, Bulkeley, I do assure you the pistol was not design'd for you, but for another; for I knew the whole before. We then talk'd of indifferent things, and spent the evening in a very affable manner.

Saturday the 29th, came here five Indian canoes, loaden with muscles; the men, women, and children, were about fifty: These Indians had never been with us before, they are not so generous and good-natur'd as our friends I have already mentioned; they were so mercenary, that they would not part with a single muscle without something in exchange; their stay was but short with us, for the next morning they launch'd their canoes, and went off.

Tuesday, September the 1st, the carpenter was shot in the thigh with several large pewter slugs by the captain's cook, but he being at a great distance, the slugs did not enter his skin: Whether this was design'd, or accidental, we don't know; however, we thought it proper to disarm him.

Wednesday the 2d, wind at N. and N. by W. with rain. This day we were inform'd that three of the deserters, viz. James Mitchel, carpenter's mate, Joseph King and Owen Thomson, seamen, were gone over to the main in a punt of their own building; the others were here yesterday, and I believe would be gladly received again, but am of opinion there are few voices in their favour.

Friday the 4th, some disorders among the people about watching the provisions, some taking all opportunities to rob the stores. Our living now is very hard, shell-fish are very scarce, and difficult to be had; the sea- weeds are our greatest support; we have found a sort of sea-weed which we call dulse, it is a narrow weed, growing on rocks in the sea, which, when boil'd about two hours, thickens the water like flour; this we esteem a good and wholsome food.

Sunday the 6th, last night the store-tent was robbed of brandy and flour: The people on hearing this were greatly enrag'd, and insisted on searching the marines tents; on search they found four bottles of brandy, and four small parcels of flour. The captain sent for the lieutenant, master gunner, carpenter, and surgeon, with lieutenants H----n, E----s, and F----g, of the army, Captain Pemberton was also sent for, but was so ill that he could not be present, but desir'd all might pass according to the judgment of the above-mention'd officers. A consultation was held, five of the accused marines did not appear, dreading the punishment due to their crime, they march'd off to the deserters: Four more, who staid to be try'd, receiv'd sentence, on the first opportunity, to carry them off to the main, and there to shift for themselves with the former deserters. The seamen insisted on a pint of brandy each man per diem, which was agreed on. The provisions being found were put into the store.

Monday the 7th, I was invited to a dog-feast at Mr J----s's tent: There were present at this entertainment, the lieutenant, the Honourable John Byron, Mr Cummins, Mr Campbell, Mr Young, Lieutenants Ewers and Fielding, and Dr Oakley of the army. It was exceeding good eating, we thought no English mutton preferable to it.

Tuesday the 8th, in the afternoon, William Harvey, quarter gunner, came to our tent with a paper sign'd by seven people; the contents as follows, viz.

"These are to acquaint you, the gentlemen, officers, and seamen of the ship Wager, that, for the easement of the boat now building, we do agree to go in the yawl, after she is fitted up, with allowing us our share of provisions, and other conveniences, to go in her to the southward, through the Streights of Magellan, for the coast of Brazil.

David Buckley, quarter gunner.
William Harvey, ditto.
Rich. Noble, quarter-master.
William Moor, captain's cook.
William Rose, quarter-master.
John Hayes, seaman.
John Bosman, ditto."

The next day, the above-mention'd added one more to their number, viz. Peter Plastow, captain's steward: he came to acquaint us he was willing to go with them, and hoped we would give our consent; we told him we had nothing to do with it, therefore he must apply to the captain.

Thursday the 10th, hard gales at W.N.W., with rain and hail. The captain sent for the lieutenant, master, myself, the carpenter, and boatswain; when we were all met, the captain ask'd us if Plastow had mention'd any thing to us about going off in the yawl. We told him he had. Plastow being sent for, the captain said, Peter, I hear you are for going in the boat? He answer'd, Yes, sir, I will take my chance, for I want to get to England. The captain bade him be gone for a villain, and said no more. This Plastow was a mighty favourite with the captain, and had often been admitted to his conversation: He above all men ought to have stood steadfast to him, because the captain regarded him above the whole body of people, and hath been heard to say as much. It was this day agreed that the sentence put off on the 6th should be executed the first opportunity, without any delay, and that no boat should go off from hence before all was ready, believing some have a design to go to the northward.

Friday the 11th, wind at N.N.W. The people very uneasy, scarce any work done for this week past; every thing at a stand, we have now among us no command, order, or discipline, add to our uneasiness the uncomfortableness of the climate; we have been inhabitants of this island sixteen weeks, and have not seen ten fair days; the murmurings of the people, the scarcity of provision, and the severity of the weather, would really make a man weary of life.

Monday the 14th, last night very hard gales at N.W. and W.N.W., with large showers of hail, with thunder. The wind to-day is much abated. As to the article of provisions, nothing comes amiss, we eat dogs, rats, and, in short, every thing we can come at.

Friday the 18th, Dennis O'Lary, and John Redwood, seamen, with six marines, were put off to the main, according to their sentence, it being a fine summer's day. This day the lieutenant bringing a pair of pistols to the carpenter, and complaining they were in bad order, did not imagine they were loaded, snapping the first it miss'd fire, the second went off, but providentially did no harm, tho' the lieutenant had then a crowd of people about him.

Sunday the 20th, little wind, and clear weather. Launch'd the barge, and went off to the wreck; we took up four casks of beef, with a cask of pease, which was stay'd, we serv'd out to each man five pieces of beef, and pease to suck as would have 'em, but there were none to take 'em, having now plenty of meat, our stomachs are become nice and dainty.

Wednesday, the 23d, the people went to the captain with a two gallon cagg, and ask'd it full of wine. The captain refus'd 'em, but apprehending that they would make no ceremony of filling it without leave, and carrying it off by force, he thought proper to order it to be fill'd. They brought it to the long-boat, and drank it in her hold. Stept the long-boat's mast forward. The people very much disorder'd in liquor, and very quarrelsome.

Thursday the 24th, I was sent on a week's cruize in the barge, the officers with me were Mr Jones, the mate, and the Honourable Mr B----n, midshipman, and Mr Harvey the purser, who was a good draughtsman; we went in order to discover the coast to the southward, for the safety of the long-boat; we were informed on our return, that the people in our absence went to the captain and got two gallons of wine which they mixed with their half pints of brandy, they got all drunk and mad, but no great mischief ensued. Six Indian canoes likewise came in our absence loaden with men, women, and children, and brought with them clams out of the shells strung on lines. The Indian women dived for muscles, and brought them ashore in abundance, the men went to the fresh water river, and caught several fish like our English mullets. The people bought dogs of the Indians, which they kill'd and eat, esteeming the flesh very good food. The next day the Indians went out and caught a vast quantity of fish out of a pond, where they sent their dogs to hunt; the dogs dived, and drove the fish ashore in great numbers to one part of the pond, as if they had been drawn in a seyne; the Indians sold the fish to the people. This method of catching fish, is, I believe, unknown any where else, and was very surprising; and, what is also very strange, after the Indians went away, we hauled the seyne over the pond, and could never get a fish.

Monday the 28th, returned with the barge; the first evening we were out we had a good harbour for the barge, which we put into; the first animal we saw was a fine large bitch big with puppies, we kill'd her, we then roasted one side and boiled the other, were exceedingly well pleased with our fare, supped heartily, and slept well. The next morning we got up at day-break, and proceeded on our cruize, finding all along the coast to be very dangerous; at evening put into a place of very good shelter for the barge: Here we found the Indians had been very lately, the shore being covered with the offals of seal; in an hour's time we killed ten wild fawn, we roasted three geese and two ducks, the rest we put into a sea pye, so that we fared most elegantly; got up at day-light next morning, but seeing the weather hazy and dirty, thought it not proper to put out with the barge, fearing we should not get a harbour before night; we took a walk five miles in the country cross the land to the southward, but could not see any shelter for the boat, being then twelve leagues from the place we came from, so we returned back in the evening, and got into a fine sandy bay; I think it as good a harbour for shipping as any I ever saw: Coming into this bay, saw the southmost land, which we had seen before, bearing about S.S.W. right over an inlet of land, above two miles. After landing, lived as we did last night; in the morning we walked over, where we found a deep bay, it being eighteen leagues deep, and twelve leagues broad; here we had a very good prospect of the coast; we found here the green pease that Sir John Narborough mentions in his book.

Saturday, the 3d of October, after our return from the cruize, the lieutenant, the master, myself, the boatswain, and Mr J----s the mate, went to the captain, to acquaint him how forward the boat was, and to consult some measures to be observ'd on board the boat, to prevent mutiny; he desir'd a day or two to consider of it.

On Monday, the 5th, the carpenter sent his case bottle, as usual, to the captain, to be filled with wine, but it was sent back empty, with this answer, I will give him none. This sudden change of the captain's behaviour to the carpenter, proceeded from some words which the latter dropt, and were carried to the captain; the words the carpenter spoke were to this purport, that he was not to be led by favour or affection, nor to be biassed by a bottle of brandy. To-day we heeled the long-boat, and caulked the star-board side, paid her bottom with wax, tallow, and soap that came out of the ship.

Tuesday the 6th, hard gales at N.W. and N., with rain: This morning the lieutenant acquainted us of the captain's resolution, which was to be captain as before, and to be governed by the rules of the navy, and to stand or fall by them; it was objected in the present situation, the rules of the navy are not sufficient to direct us, several rules being requisite in our circumstances which are not mention'd there, that the whole body of officers and people are determin'd not to be govern'd by those rules at present. This objection was started, not from a disrespect to those rules, but we imagin'd, if Captain C----p was restor'd to the absolute command he had before the loss of the Wager, that he would proceed again on the same principles, never on any exigency consult his officers, but act arbitrarily, according to his humour and confidence of superior knowledge; while he acts with reason, we will support his command with our lives, but some restriction is necessary for our own preservation. We think him a gentleman worthy to have a limited command, but too dangerous a person to be trusted with an absolute one. This afternoon the people insisted to be serv'd brandy out of the casks that were buried under ground, accordingly they were serv'd half a pint each man. Got the long-boat upright.

Thursday the 18th, this day the master went to the captain concerning ten half barrels of powder more than can be carried off, which will make good water casks for the boats; the captain told him not to start the powder, or destroy any thing, without his orders, and said, he must have time, to consider of it. In the afternoon Captain P--m-b--rt--n, of the land forces, came on the beach and desired the assistance of the seamen to take Captain C----p a prisoner, for the death of Mr Cozens, the midshipman, telling us, he should be call'd to an account, if he did not. This evening the carpenter went up to the hill-tent, so called from its situation; the people were shooting balls at marks, some of 'em were firing in vollies, without shot or sluggs; one of the men on the beach fir'd at the tent while the carpenter was in it, who was standing with a book in his hand; there was a piece of beef hung close at his cheek, the ball went through the tent and the beef, but the carpenter receiv'd no damage. To-day I overhaul'd the powder, and told the lieutenant that I had twenty-three half barrels in store, and that we could not carry off in the vessel above six half barrels, therefore proposed to start the overplus into the sea, and make water casks of the half barrels, they being very proper for that purpose. I desired him to acquaint the captain with my intention; that since he had no regard for the publick good, or any thing that tended to promoting it, the carpenter and I had determin'd never to go near him again. The lieutenant declin'd going, fearing the captain would murther him, but he sent the master to him, to let him know the necessity of starting the powder; the captain's answer to the master was, I desire you will not destroy any one thing without my orders. We now are convinc'd the captain hath no intention of going to the southward, notwithstanding he had lately given his word and honour that he would; therefore Captain P--mb--r-t--n, in order to put an end to all future obstructions, demanded our assistance to make him a prisoner for the shooting Mr Cozens, intending to carry him as such to England; at the same time to confine Lieutenant H----n with him, which was readily agreed to by the whole body. It was reckon'd dangerous to suffer the captain any longer to enjoy liberty, therefore the lieutenant, gunner, carpenter, and Mr J----s the mate, resolv'd next morning to surprize him in his bed.

Friday the 9th, this morning went in a body and surpriz'd the captain in bed, disarm'd him, and took every thing out of his tent. The captain said to the seamen, What are you about? where are my officers? at which the master, gunner, carpenter, and boatswain, went in. The captain said, Gentlemen, do you know what you have done, or are about? He was answer'd, Yes, sir; our assistance was demanded by Captain P----n, to secure you as a prisoner for the death of Mr Cozens; and as we are subjects of Great Britain, we are oblig'd to take you as such to England. The captain said, Gentlemen, Captain P----n has nothing to do with me, I am your commander still, I will shew you my instructions, which he did to the people, on this we came out. He then call'd his officers a second time, and said, What is this for? He was answer'd as before, that assistance was demanded by Captain P----n to take him prisoner for the death of Mr Cozens. He still insisted, Captain P----n has no business with me, I could not think you would serve me so. It was told him, Sir, it is your own fault, you have given yourself no manner of concern for the publick good, on our going from hence, but have acted quite the reverse, or else been so careless and indifferent about it, as if we had no commander, and if other persons had given themselves no more trouble and concern than you have, we should not be ready to go from hence as long as provisions lasted. The captain said, Very well, gentlemen, you have caught me napping; I do not see any of you in liquor, you are a parcel of brave fellows, but my officers are scoundrels: Then turning himself to me, he said, Gunner, where's my lieutenant? did not he head you? I told him, No, sir, but was here to see it executed, and is here now. One of you, says the captain, call Mr B----s. When Mr B----s came, he said, What is all this for, sir? Sir, it is Captain P----n's order. Captain P----n hath no business with me, and you will answer for it hereafter, if I do not live to see England, I hope some of my friends will. On this the lieutenant left him. The captain then address'd himself to the seamen, saying, My lads, I do not blame you, but it is the villainy of my officers, which they will answer for hereafter. He then call'd Mr B----s again, and said, Well, sir, what do you design to do by me? The lieutenant answer'd, Sir, your officers have design'd the purser's tent for you. Hum! I should be obliged to the gentlemen, if they would let me stay in my own tent. The lieutenant came to acquaint the officers of the captain's request, but they judg'd it inconvenient, as Mr H----n's tent join'd the purser's, one guard might serve 'em both; accordingly all his things were mov'd to the purser's tent: As he was coming along, he said, Gentlemen, you must excuse my not pulling my hat off, my hands are confin'd. Well, Captain B----s you will be call'd to an account for this hereafter. The boatswain, after the captain's confinement, most barbarously insulted him, reproaching him with striking him, saying, Then it was your time, but now, G--d d--n you, it is mine; The captain made no reply but this, You are a scoundrel for using a gentleman ill when he is a prisoner. When the captain was a prisoner, he declar'd, he never intended to go to the southward, having more honour than to turn his back on his enemies; and farther, he said, Gentlemen, I do not want to go off in any of your craft, for I never design'd to go for England, and would rather cause to be shot by you; there is not a single man on the beach dare engage me, but this is what I fear'd.

It is very odd, that Captain C----p should now declare be never intended to go to the southward, when he publickly gave his word and honour he would go that way, or any way where the spirit of the people led: But he afterwards told his officers, he knew he had a severe trial to go through, if ever he came to England; and as for those who liv'd to return to their country, the only favour he requested from them, was to declare the truth, without favour or prejudice, and this we promis'd faithfully to do: His words, in this respect, were as much regarded by us as the words of a dying man, and have been most punctually observ'd.

Saturday the 10th, little wind at N. and N.W. Getting all ready for going off this afternoon, the captain sent for the lieutenant and me, desiring us both to go to Captain P----n, to know what he intended to do with him. We accordingly came, and both promised to go directly, and bring him his answer. When we came out, went to the lieutenant's tent; from thence I expected, and made no doubt but he would go to Captain P----n's: But when I ask'd him he refused, which very much surprised me. I thought it very ungenerous to trifle with Captain C----p, or any gentleman in his unhappy situation; therefore went alone to Captain Pemberton. When I delivered him Captain C----p's message the answer was, I design, and must carry him prisoner to England. I return'd, and acquainted Captain C----p with Captain P----n's answer: He ask'd me then if the lieutenant was with me. I told him, no; and I believe did not design it. He said, Mr Bulkeley, I am very much obliged to you, and could not think the lieutenant would use me thus. In the evening the lieutenant and I were sent for again: The captain said to the lieutenant, Sir, have you been with Captain P----n? He answer'd, No, sir. I thought, sir, you promised me you would: However, I have his answer from Mr Bulkeley; I am to be carried a prisoner to England. Gentlemen, I shall never live to see England, but die by inches in the voyage; and it is surprising to me to think what you can expect by going to the southward, where there are ten thousand difficulties to be encounter'd with: I am sorry so many brave fellows should be led to go where they are not acquainted, when, by going to the northward, there is the island of Chili, not above ninety leagues, where we need not fear taking prizes, and may have a chance to see the commodore. I made answer, Sir, you have said that we shall be call'd to an account for this in England: I must tell you, for my part, had I been guilty of any crime, and was sure of being hang'd for it in England, I would make it my choice to go there, sooner than to the northward: Have not you given your word and honour to go to the southward? It is true there is a chance in going to the northward, by delivering us from this unhappy situation of life to a worse, viz. a Spanish prison. The captain said no more but this, Gentlemen, I wish you well and safe to England.

Sunday the 11th, this morning the captain sent for me, and told me he had rather be shot than carried off a prisoner, and that he would not go off with us; therefore desired me to ask the people to suffer him to remain on the island: The people readily agreed to his request, and also consented to leave him all things needful for his support, as much as could be spared. Lieutenant H----n and the surgeon chose to stay with him. We offer'd him also the barge and yawl, if he could procure men to go with him. The question was proposed before the whole body, but they all cry'd aloud for England, and let him stay and be d----'d; does he want to carry us to a prison? There is not a man will go. The captain being deprived of his command in the manner above mentioned, and for the reasons already given, it was resolved to draw some articles to be sign'd for the good of the community, and to give the lieutenant a limited command. The paper was drawn up in this manner:--

"Whereas Captain David C----p, our commander in his majesty's ship the Wager, never consulted any of his officers for the safety and preservation of the said ship, and his majesty's subjects thereto belonging, but several times, since the unhappy loss of the said ship, he has been solicited in the most dutiful manner, promising him at the same time to support his command with our lives, desiring no more than to go off heart in hand from this place to the southward, which he gave his word and honour to do; and being almost ready for sailing, did apply to him some few days past, to draw up some proper articles, in order to suppress mutiny, and other material things, which were thought necessary to be agreed to before we went off; but he, in the most scornful manner, hath rejected every thing proposed for the public good, and as he is now a prisoner, and the command given to the lieutenant, upon his approbation of the following articles:

"First, As we have no conveniency for dressing provisions, on board the vessel, for a third part of the number to be carried off the spot, therefore this day served out to every man and boy twelve days' provision, for them to dress before we go off; and also it is agreed, that whoever is guilty of defrauding another of any part of his allowance, on sufficient proof thereof, the person found guilty (without any respect of person) shall be put on shore at the first convenient place, and left there.

"Secondly, In regard to the boats going off with us, we think proper to allow one week's provision for each man appointed to go in them, in order to prevent separation from each other, which would be of the worst consequence of any thing that can happen to us: To prevent which, we do agree, that when under way they shall not separate, but always keep within musket-shot, and on no pretence or excuse whatsoever go beyond that reach. The officer, or any other person, that shall attempt a separation, or exceed the above-mention'd bounds, shall, on proof, be put on shore, and left behind.

"Thirdly, It is agreed, in order to suppress mutiny, and prevent broils and quarrels on board the vessel, that no man shall threaten the life of another, or offer violence in any shape, the offender, without any respect of station or quality, being found guilty, shall be put on shore, and left behind.

"Fourthly, We do agree, whatever fowl, fish, or necessaries of life, we shall happen to meet with on our passage, the same shall be divided among the whole, and if Captain David C----p shall, be put on board a prisoner, it shall not be in the lieutenant's power to release him.

"The aforesaid articles were agreed to, and sign'd by the undermention'd,

Robert Beans, lieutenant
Thomas Clark, master
John King, boatswain
John Bulkeley, gunner
John Cummins, carpenter
Thomas Harvey, purser
Robert Elliot, surgeon's mate
John Jones, master's mate
John Snow, ditto
The Hon. John Byron, midshipman
Alexander Campbell, ditto
Isaac Morris, ditto
Thomas Maclean, cook
Richard Phipps, boatswain's mate
John Mooring, ditto
Matthew Langley, gunner's mate
Guy Broadwater, coxswain
Samuel Stook, seaman
Joseph Clinch, ditto
John Duck, ditto
Peter Plastow, captain's steward
John Pitman, butcher
David Buckley, quarter-gunner
Richard Noble, quarter-master
William Moore, captain's cook
George Smith, seaman
Benjamin Smith, ditto
William Oram, carpenter's mate
John Hart, joiner
John Bosman, seaman
William Harvey, quarter-gunner
Richard East, seaman
Samuel Cooper, ditto
Job Barns, ditto
Joseph Butler, ditto
William Rose, quarter-master
John Shoreham, seaman
John Hayes, ditto
Henry Stephens, ditto
William Callicutt, ditto
John Russel, armourer
James MacCawle, seaman
William Lane, ditto
James Roach, ditto
John George, ditto
John Young, cooper
Moses Lewis, gunner's mate
Nicholas Griselham, seaman."

Monday the 12th, at day-light, launch'd the long-boat, and gave her the name of the Speedwell, (which God preserved to deliver us) we got all the provision on board, and other necessaries. The captain sent for the lieutenant, myself, and the carpenter, desiring us to leave him what could be spared, and to send to the deserters to know if they will go in the yawl to the northward, we promised to grant him his request. To-day every body got on board. The captain, surgeon, and Mr H----n, had their share of provisions equal with us.

Tuesday the 13th, we sent the barge to the deserters, with Mr S----w, the mate, to know if they were willing to tarry, and go with the captain to the northward, to acquaint them what provision and necessaries should be allow'd 'em: They readily agreed to tarry. On the return of the boat, deliver'd to the captain the share of provision for the deserters, and sundry necessaries, as under-mentioned, viz.

Six hand-grenadoes, five half barrels of powder, two caggs of musket-balls, Lieutenant H----n's pistols and gun, one pair of pistols for the captain, twelve musket-flints, six pistol-flints, sundry carpenter's tools, half a pint of sweet oil, two swords of the captain's own, five muskets, twelve pistol balls, one bible, one azimuth compass, one quadrant, and one Gunter's scale.

Provision deliver'd to the captain, surgeon, and Lieutenant K----n, with eight deserters, which last are to be at half allowance of the quantity made out to the people, which make the whole number seven at whole allowance.

To the captain, surgeon, and Lieutenant H----n, six pieces of beef, six pieces of pork, and ninety pound of flour; for the deserters, eight pieces of beef, eight pieces of pork, one hundred weight of flour.

As soon as the above things were delivered, we got ready for sailing. I went and took my leave of the captain; he repeated his injunction, that at my return to England I would impartially relate all proceedings: He spoke to me in the most tender and affectionate manner, and, as a token of his friendship and regard for me, desired me to accept of a suit of his best wearing apparel: At parting he gave me his hand with a great deal of chearfulness, wishing me well and safe to England. This was the last time I ever saw the unfortunate Captain C----p. However, we hope to see him again in England, that Mr Cummins and myself may be freed from some heavy imputations to our prejudice, laid on us by the gentleman who succeeded him in command, and who, having an opportunity of arriving before us in England, not only in the places he touched at abroad, but at home, has blackened us with the greatest calumnies, and by an imperfect narrative, has not only traduced us, but made the whole affair so dark and mystical, that till the captain's arrival the l----s of the a----y will not decide for or against us. But if that unfortunate captain never returns to his country, let us do so much justice to his character, to declare that he was a gentleman possessed of many virtues: He was an excellent seaman himself, and loved a seaman; as for personal bravery, no man, had a larger share of it; even when a prisoner he preserved the dignity of a commander, no misfortune could dispirit or deject him, and fear was a weakness he was entirely a stranger to; the loss of the ship was the loss of him; he knew how to govern while he was a commander on board, but when things were brought to confusion and disorder, he thought to establish his command ashore by his courage, and to suppress the least insult on his authority on the first occasion; an instance of this was seen on the boatswain's first appearing ashore--shooting Mr Cozens, and treating him in the manner he did after his confinement, was highly resented by the people, who soon got the power in their own hands; the officers only had the name, and they were often compelled, for the preservation of their lives, to comply sometimes with their most unreasonable demands; and it is a miracle, amidst the wildness and distraction of the people, that there was no more bloodshed.

At eleven in the forenoon, the whole body of people embarked, to the number of eighty-one souls, fifty-nine on board the vessel, on board the cutter twelve, and in the barge ten. At noon got under sail, the wind at N.W. by W. The captain, surgeon, and Mr H----n, being on the shore side, we gave them three cheers, which they returned. Coming out of Wager's Bay, split the foresail, and very narrowly escaped the rocks; with the assistance of the barge and our own oars, tow'd her clear, and bore away into a large sandy bay, on the south side of the lagoon, which we called by the name of the Speedwell Bay. At four in the afternoon, anchored in ten fathom fine sand, the barge and cutter went ashore, there not being room on board the boat to lodge the people.

Wednesday the 14th, fresh gales at S.W. and W., with rain. At three this afternoon, being fair weather, weigh'd, and came to sail to take a cruize up the lagoon, to try the vessel, it being smooth water she work'd very well; after three or four trips returned, and anchor'd where we came from.

"These are to certify the right honourable the lords commissioners for executing the office of lord high admiral of Great Britain, That we, whose names are under-mentioned, do beg leave to acquaint your lordships that Captain David Cheap, our late commander in his majesty's ship Wager, having publicly declared, that he will never go off this spot, at his own request desires to be left behind; but Captain Pemberton, of his majesty's land forces, having confined him a prisoner for the death of Mr Henry Cozens, midshipman, with Lieutenant Hamilton, for breaking his confinement, did insist on delivering them up on the beach to the charge of Lieutenant Beans, but he, with his officers and people, consulting the ill consequences that might attend carrying two prisoners off in so small a vessel, and for so long and tedious a passage as we are likely to have, and that they might have opportunities of acting such things in secret as may prove destructive to the whole body; and also in regard to the chief article of life, as the greatest part of the people must be obliged at every place we stop, to go on shore in search of provisions, and there being now no less than eighty-one souls in this small vessel, which we hope to be delivered in, we therefore, to prevent any difficulties to be added to the unforeseen we have to encounter with, think proper to agree, and in order to prevent murder, to comply with Captain David Cheap's request: The surgeon also begs leave to be left with him. Dated on board the Speedwell schooner, in Cheap's Bay, this 14th day of October, 1741.

Robert Beans, lieutenant
Thomas Clark, master
John King, boatswain
John Bulkeley, gunner
John Cummins, master
Robert Elliot, surgeon's mate
John Jones, master's mate
John Snow, ditto
Captain Pemberton, of his majesty's land forces
Vincent Oakley, surgeon of ditto."

Thursday the 15th, this morning it being calm, made a signal for the boats to come off, by firing five muskets. At day-light came to sail, with the wind at W. by N. It blowing hard, and a great swell, the vessel would not work, therefore we were obliged to put into a small bay, lying S.W. of Harvey's Bay, where we had very good shelter, there being a large ledge of rocks without us, which broke the sea off. At eleven we sent the barge to Cheap's Bay, for what canvass could be found serviceable, having left a sufficient quantity behind to supply us with sails, in case we wanted 'em. Went in the barge the Hon. John Byron, at his own request, Alexander Campbell, midshipman; William Harvey, quarter-gunner; David Buckley, ditto; William Rose, quarter-master; Richard Noble, ditto; Peter Plastow, captain's steward; Joseph Clinch, seaman, and Rowland Crusset, marine. This afternoon the carpenter went ashore in the cutter, with several of the people, to look for provender. Shot several geese, and other sea-fowl. Rainy weather. Wind W.N.W.

Friday the 16th, continual rain, and hard gales all night at S.W. This morning the carpenter came on board, and acquainted us that he saw an anchor of seven feet in the shank, the palm of each arm filed off just above the crown: This anchor we suppose to have belonged to some small vessel wreck'd on the coast. The cutter brought off abundance of shell-fish ready dress'd for the people.

Sunday, the 18th, at noon, the cutter came off, and brought aboard plenty of shell-fish and greens. The Hon. Mr B----n, Mr C----l, and three of the barge's crew, came from where the barge lay. Mr B----n came aboard, and inform'd us of the barge being safe in the bay where we left her, and only waited the opportunity of weather to come round with her: At the same time he desired to know if we would give him, and those who would stay with Captain C----p, their share of provisions. This question of Mr B----n's very much surprized us; and what surprized us more was, that he should be influenced by Mr C----l, a person whom he always held in contempt. As for my part, I believe Mr B----n left us because he could not get an accommodation aboard the vessel that he liked, being obliged to lie forward with the men; as were also the carpenter and myself when below: It is very certain, that we are so closely pent up for want of room, that the worst jail in England is a palace to our present situation.

Tuesday the 20th, served out to the people eight days' flour, to be dress'd ashore. I went in the cutter to command in my turn for a week.

Wednesday the 21st, close weather; the wind from W. to N.W., with rain and hail. Brought aboard shell-fish in abundance. At noon the Honourable Mr B----n came with some of the crew over-land; he ask'd me whether the boat's crew were gone off, and if we had served the provision, for he wanted to return to the barge. I told him all the people were out a-fishing, and that the first who came in should carry him off. On which he said, I think we will go and get some fish too, having nothing else to live on. This was the last time I ever saw his honour. When the people return'd from fishing, they told me Mr B----n had lost his hat, the wind blowing it off his head. I said, rather than he should want a hat I would give him my own. One of the seamen forced a hat on his head; his name was John Duck: But Mr B----n would by no means wear it, saying, John, I thank you, if I accept of your kindness you must go bareheaded, and I think I can bear hardships as well as the best of you, and must use myself to them. I took eight people and went overland to the place where the barge lay, to get the canvass that we stood so much in need of, but found that she was gone from thence. The people in the barge told our men that they would return to us again, but it is plain they never intended it.

Thursday the 22d, this day we saw sea-fowl in vast flocks, flying to the southward, where was a dead whale. Look'd out all this day for the barge, but to no purpose. The barge not returning was a very great misfortune, having no boat but the cutter; and if by an unlucky accident we lose her, we must be reduced to the greatest extremities to get provision. The persons in the barge, except the captain's steward, always approved of going to the southward, but it seems Mr C----l, the poltron, prevail'd on 'em to return to Captain C----p.

Friday the 23d, saw thousands of sea-fowl; in the morning they fly to the northward, and in the evening come back to the south; they are birds of a very large size, but of what kind we do not know. Since we have been here we saw several Indian graves; they are dug just within the surface of the earth, with a board on each side, and a cross stuck, up at the head. The day following, a gun, a four-pounder, was seen near the anchor in Clam Bay; we call it by this name, because of the vast quantities of this sort of shell-fish which are found there.

Monday the 26th, it being very calm and fair weather, I went ashore to bring off the people; weigh'd the longboat, and took her in tow over a bar where there was ten feet water, but a great swell; as soon as we got over the bar there sprung up a breeze of wind at N.W., steer'd away S. 1/2 E. for the southmost part of land, which bore S. by E., distant fourteen leagues. The two points of land make a large and deep sandy bay, we sounded but found no ground; it is a bold shore close to. I kept a-head in the cutter, in order to provide a harbour for the long-boat; Providence directed us to a very good one: It blew so hard, with thick hazy weather, that we could not keep the sea. At eight at night we anchor'd in eight fathom water, a-breast of a fine sandy bay, and land-locked not above three boats length from the shore: At the entrance of the harbour, which lies about a league up the lagoon, I set the land, the northmost point bore by the compass N. by E., distant twelve leagues, and the southmost S. by W., distant five leagues; the entrance lies E.

Tuesday the 27th, fresh gales at west, and cloudy weather, with a great swell without, insomuch that we could not put out to sea; we therefore sent the people ashore to dress their provisions; each man is allow'd but a quarter of a pound of flour per day, without any other subsistence but what Providence brings in our way.

Thursday, the 29th, early this morning it being calm and thick weather, with small rain, we rowed out of the lagoon; at five it cleared up, with a fresh breeze at S.S.E., steer'd S.W. and S.W. by W., saw a small island bearing S. by W., the southmost end S. by E. This island we called the rock of Dundee, it being much like that island in the West-Indies, but not so large; it lieth about four leagues distant from the southmost point of land out at sea. This day it blow'd so hard that we were obliged to take the cutter in tow.

Friday the 30th, hard gales, and a great sea; saw some islands and some sunken rocks; at six saw the main in two points of land, with a large opening; on each side the sunken rocks are innumerable; the entrance is so dangerous, that no mortal would attempt it unless his case was desperate as ours, we have nothing but death before our eyes in keeping the sea, and the same prospect in running in with the land: We ran in before the wind to the opening that appear'd between the two points, the northmost of which bore N. by E., and the southmost S. by E. We steered in east, and found the opening to be a large lagoon on the southmost side, running into a very good harbour; here our small vessel lay secure in a cove, which nature had form'd like a dock; we had no occasion to let go our anchor, but ran alongside the land, and made fast our head and stern. The people went ashore in search of provision; here we found plenty of wood and water, and fine large muscles in great quantities. Served to each man half a piece of beef.

Saturday the 31st, this morning cast loose and row'd towards the mouth of the lagoons, designing to put out to sea, but the wind blew so hard that we were obliged to come to an anchor. This afternoon, in weighing the grapnel in order to go to the cove, we found it foul among some rocks, all hands haul'd, took a turn round the main-mast and went aft, which weighed the grapnel, but straightened one of the flukes: Here the land is very high and steep on each side, the carpenter and cooper were on the highest of these hills, and found deep ponds of water on the top of them; these hills are very rocky, and there are great falls of water all along the coast: The whole navy of England may lie with safety in many of those lagoons, but the coast is too dangerous for any ship to fall in with the land. The people today were very much afflicted with the gripes and pains in their side. Here are abundance of trees, not unlike our yew-trees, they are not above seven or eight inches in diameter, and the bark is like cedar. The land is to appearance very good, but on digging beneath the surface we find it almost an entire stone. We saw no people here, though it is plain there have been some lately, by their wigwams or huts. We are so closely pent up for want of room, that our lodging is very uncomfortable; the stench of the men's wet cloaths makes the air we breathe nauseous to that degree, that one would think it impossible for a man to live below. We came to sail, and steered out of the lagoon west; went into a sandy bay one league to the southward of the lagoon. Indian huts to be seen, but no natives.

Monday November 2d, at five in the morning, came to sail with the wind at S. and S. by E. At noon the wind came to the W. and W.N.W. in small breezes. This day I had a very good observation, it being the first since we left Cheap's Island. We found ourselves in the latitude of 50° 0' S. After observing, bore away and ran into a fine smooth passage between the island and the main. These islands I believe to be the same that are taken notice of in Cook's voyage. From the entrance to the northward, to the going out of the Cape of Good Hope (as we call it) the distance is about six leagues, and the depth of the water is from two fathom to twelve; the northmost land before we came into the passage bore N. by W., and the southmost, or Cape of Good Hope, bore S. by E. In the evening anchored in a fine sandy bay; here we also saw Indian huts, but no people. To-day we shot wild geese in abundance, and got of shell-fish, as limpets and muscles.

Tuesday the 3d, at four this morning weighed, and came to sail with the wind at W., till we got about the Cape of Good Hope, then at W.N.W., steering S., and a tumbling sea from the W. The cutter steer'd S. by E. into a deep bay; supposing them not to see the southmost land, we made the signal for her, by hoisting an ensign at the topping-lift; as the cutter was coming up to us her square sail splitted, we offer'd to take them in tow, but they would not accept it; we lay with our sails down some time before they would show any signal of making sail; coming before the wind, and a large sea, we ordered them to steer away for the southmost point of land after us, and to keep as near us as possible; but, instead of observing our directions, they steered away into the cod of a deep bay, supposed to be King's Bay: The cutter being much to leeward, and the weather being very thick, we were obliged to steer after her, but soon lost sight of her. The place being exceeding dangerous, we could not venture any farther after the cutter, therefore we hauled by the wind to the southward, it continued blowing hard, with thick weather, with sunken rocks and breakers, so that we were obliged to bear away before the wind into a large bay, the tide running rampant, and in a great swell, every where surrounded with sunken rocks, that we thought nothing but a miracle could save us: at last we got safe into the bay, and came to in two fathom water, we steered in east. At four this morning rowed out between the islands, after we got out had a fresh breeze at N.W., steered out S.S.W. then S. and S. by E., the cutter a-head. At seven in the morning a-breast of Cape Good Hope, saw a large high rock bearing S., steered S. by E., going within it, and the main a-breast of the rocks, saw a long point making into islands bearing S. by E., steer'd S. until a-breast of them: The same day saw a very high land, with a low point running off in small hommacoes, bearing from the northmost point S. by E. about eighteen leagues; between those two points is a large deep bay, all within surrounded with rocks and small islands, steered S. and S. by W. for the outermost point, the cutter keeping within, and we considering the ill consequence of being embayed, to prevent which we hauled the mainsail and foresail down, and kept the vessel before the wind; at eleven the cutter came alongside, with her mainsail split; we called to them to take hold of a tow-rope, but they refused, telling us that the boat would not bear towing, by reason of the swell of the sea, therefore they would have us nearer the shore, where we should have smooth water; we answered them that the water was smoother without, and nothing nigh the sea that runs within; besides, we shall be embay'd, therefore we desire you to come on board the vessel, and we'll take the boat in tow: They had no regard to what we said; we at the same time, for above a quarter of an hour, lay in the trough of the sea, with a fair wind: The people in the cutter would neither make sail nor row, at last, finding them obstinate, we hoisted a skirt of the mainsail, and edged farther off, S. by W.; when they found we would not go into that bay, they hoisted their mainsail, and went a-head; being some distance a-head, we made sail, the cutter still keeping a-head till one o'clock, then she bore away S. by E. and S.S.E., the reason of which we could not tell, it blowing very hard, with a great sea, nothing before us but rocks and breakers, therefore of consequence the farther in the sea must be the greater. At half an hour past two, the cutter being on the beam, and four miles within us, we bore away after them, and in a very heavy squall of wind and rain we lost sight of her: After the squall was over it cleared up, but we saw nothing of the cutter, nor could we clear the shore to the northward, being not above two miles off the breakers; therefore we were under a necessity of hauling to the southward for self-preservation, and very narrowly escaped clearing the rocks: After running about three leagues, saw an opening, where we hoped to find a good harbour; Bore away for the opening, we were here again surrounded with rocks and breakers, with a hard gale of wind and a great sea, the oldest seaman on board never saw a more dismal prospect; we ran in before the wind for about two leagues; expecting every rise and fall of the sea to be a wreck, but Providence at length conducted us to an indifferent place of shelter: We were now in a most wretched condition, having no boat to go ashore in, to seek for provender, and the greatest part of the people on board are so regardless of life, that they really appear quite indifferent whether they shall live or die, and it is with much intreaty that any of them can be prevailed on to come upon deck, to assist for their preservation.

The people's names in the cutter are as follow, viz.

Names. Quality. Age. Where born.
Thomas Harvey, purser, 23 Westminster.
John Mooring, boatswain's mate, 34 Gosport.
William Oram, carpenter's crew, 28 Philadelphia.
Richard Phipps, boatswain's mate, 30 Bristol.
Matthew Lively, gunner's mate, 34 Exeter.
John George, seaman, 22 Wandsworth.
Nicholas Griselham, ditto, 31 Ipswich.
James Stewart, ditto, 35 Aberdeen.
James Roach, ditto, 21 Cork.
James Butler, ditto, 32 Dublin.
John Allen, ditto, 18 Gosport.

Wednesday the 4th, hard gales at W.N.W., and a great sea without; served out flour and a piece of beef to two men for a week's subsistence; the weather is so bad that there is no other food to be got.

Thursday the 5th, little wind at S.W., with heavy rains; at six this morning went under sail, but could make no hand of it, therefore were obliged to put back again: As soon as we came to an anchor, the boatswain employed himself in making a raft to get ashore with; this raft was made with oars and water barrels; when it was made, and over the side, it would carry three men, but it was no sooner put off from the vessel's side but it canted, and obliged the people to swim for their lives; the boatswain got hold of the raft, and with some difficulty reach'd the shore; when he came off in the evening, he informed us he had seen a beef puncheon, which gave us some reason to apprehend some other ship of the squadron had suffered our fate.

Friday the 6th, this morning went under sail, the wind at W.N.W., with fresh gales and heavy rain, the wind came to the westward, and a great sea, so that we could not turn out over the bar: In our putting back we saw the cutter, a very agreeable sight, which gave us new life; in the evening anchored at the place sailed from, the carpenter and others went ashore to get shell-fish, which we stood in great need of; at night the proper boat's crew would not go ashore with the boat as usual, but made her fast a-stern of the vessel, with only two men in her, she never being left without four before; at eleven at night one of the men came out of her into the vessel, it blowing very hard at N.N.E., in half an hour shifted to N.W., and rainy weather, that we could not see a boat's length: At two the next morning the cutter broke loose from the stern of the vessel; we called from on board to James Stewart, the man that was in her, but he could not hear us: In a short time we lost sight of her, believing she must be stove among the rocks. The loss of the cutter gives the few thinking people aboard a great deal of uneasiness; we have seventy-two men in the vessel, and not above six of that number that gives themselves the least concern for the preservation of their lives, but are rather the reverse, being ripe for mutiny and destruction; this is a great affliction to the lieutenant, myself, and the carpenter, we know not what to do to bring them under any command, they have troubled us to that degree, that we are weary of our lives; therefore, this day we have told the people, that unless they alter their conduct, and subject themselves to command, that we will leave them to themselves, and take our chance in this desolate part of the globe, rather than give ourselves any farther concern about so many thoughtless wretches. Divided the people into four watches, to make more room below. The people have promised to be under government, and seem much easier.

Sunday the 8th, this morning the people requested provisions to be served; it being four days before the usual time, we think the request very unreasonable. We laid the inconveniences before them of breaking in upon our stores, considering the badness of the weather, and the length of our passage, that if we are not exceedingly provident in regard to serving out provisions, we must all inevitably starve. They will not hearken to reason, therefore we are obliged to comply with their demands, and serve out provisions accordingly. Several of the people have desired to be put on shore, desiring us to allow them some few necessaries: We wanted to know what could induce them to request our putting them ashore in this remote and desolate part of the world: They answered, they did not fear doing well, and doubted not but to find the cutter, which, if they did, they would go back to the northward, otherwise they would make a canoe; therefore insisted on going ashore. On their earnest intreaties the body of people agreed to their request: We haul'd the boat close in shore; the people who chose to stay behind were eleven in number, we supply'd them with proper necessaries, and they signed a certificate, to inform the L---- s of the A----y, that they were not compelled to stay, but made it their own choice, and that they did it for the preservation of themselves and us.

A Copy of their Certificate.

"These are to certify, the right honourable the lords commissioners for executing the office of lord high admiral of Great Britain, &c. That we, whose names are undermentioned, since the misfortune of losing the cutter, have consider'd the ill conveniences and difficulties to be attended, where so great a number of people are to be carried off, therefore we have requested and desired the officers and company remaining of the same vessel to put us on shore, with such necessaries of life as can be conveniently spared out of the vessel. We, of our own free will and choice, do indemnify all persons from ever being call'd to an account for putting us on shore, or leaving us behind, contrary to our inclinations. Witness our hands, on board the Speedwell schooner, in the latitude 50° 40' S. this 8th day of November, 1741. Which was signed by the following people, viz.

Mat. Langley, gunner's mate
John Russel, armourer
George Smith, cook's mate
William Callicutt, washerman
John Williamson, marine
John McLeod, boatswain's servant
John Hart, joiner
Joseph Turner, captain's servant
Luke Lyon, gunner's servant
Rich. Phipps, boatswain's mate
Henry Mortimer, marine.
Witness, John Cummins, carpenter,
John Snow, master's mate,
Vincent Oakley, surgeon of the army."

Monday the 9th, at ten at night, we weigh'd and rowed out of the bay, at day-light got about four leagues right out, every way surrounded with rocks and breakers, with a great western swell: We found it a very difficult matter to get clear of these rocks and breakers; they reach along shore eighteen leagues, and without us at sea eight leagues; I take it, that from the land they are fourteen leagues in the offing, those sunken rocks appear like a low level land. This coast is too dangerous for shipping, the wind being three parts of the year to the westward, which blows right on the shore, with a large western swell, that seldom or never ceases; it always blows and rains, it is worse here than in the rainy season on the coast of Guinea, nor can we as yet distinguish summer from winter, only by the length of the days. Steered out of the bay W. by N., then S. by W., then S. At noon I had a good observation in the latitude of 50° 50' S., the northmost point of the bay bore N.E. by E. seven leagues, the southmost point of land S.S.E. twelve leagues. This coast, as far as we have come, lies N. by E. and S. by W. by the compass.

Tuesday the 10th, at four this morning made all the sail we could; steering S.E. in order to make the land, at six steer'd in E.S.E. at seven made the land; at eight saw a point of land bearing S.E. distant six leagues, which, when a-breast, seeing no land to the S. I take the point for Cape Victory, and the four islands we see I believe to be the islands of Direction, which Sir John Narborough gives an account of, excepting the distance, they exactly answer his description; therefore, by the latitude, in yesterday's observation, and by the distance we have run since, we are now at the opening of the Streights of Magellan. At ten in the morning, hard gales at N.W. steer'd S.E. the cape bearing E. distant four leagues; at noon bore E. by N. distant six leagues; haul'd the main-sail down, and went under a fore-sail. I never in my life, in any part of the world, have seen such a sea as runs here, we expected every wave to swallow us, and the boat to founder. This shore is full of small islands, rocks, and breakers, so that we can't haul further to the southward, for fear of endangering the boat, we are obliged to keep her right before the sea. At five broach'd to, at which we all believ'd she would never rise again. We were surrounded with rocks, and so near that a man might toss a biscuit on 'em: We had nothing but death before our eyes, and every moment expected our fate. It blew a hurricane of wind, with thick rainy weather, that we could not see twice the boat's length; we pray'd earnestly for its clearing up, for nothing else could save us from perishing; we no sooner ask'd for light, but it was granted us from above. At the weather's clearing up, we saw the land on the north shore, with islands, rocks and breakers all around us; we were oblig'd to put in among 'em for shelter, finding it impossible to keep the sea, we were in with the land amongst them, and compell'd to push thro', looking death in the face, and expecting every sea to bury us; the boldest men amongst us were dismay'd, nor can we possibly give an account in what manner we have been this day deliver'd. After sailing amidst islands, rocks, and breakers, for above a league, we got safe into a good harbour, surrounded with small islands, which kept the sea off; here the water was as smooth as in a mill-pond. We call this harbour the Port of God's Mercy, esteeming our preservation this day to be a miracle. The most abandon'd among us no longer doubt of an Almighty Being, and have promis'd to reform their lives.

Wednesday the 11th, the wind much abated, with rain. This morning weigh'd, and ran farther in. In the evening we saw two Indians lying on their bellies on the top of a steep rock, just over the vessel, peeping with their heads over the hill. As soon as we discover'd them, we made motions to them to come down; they then rose up, and put on their heads white feather'd caps; we then hoisted a white sheet for an ensign: At this they made a noise, pronouncing Orza, Orza, which we took for a signal to come ashore. We would not suffer above two men to go ashore, and those disarm'd, lest we should put them in fear. The Indians had nothing in their hands but a club, like our cricket-batts, with which they kill their seal. As soon as they saw the two men come ashore they walk'd away, and when they perceiv'd our men follow'd them, and gain'd ground of them, they took to their heels, frequently looking back, crying Orza, Orza, beckoning the people to follow, which they did for a mile or two along-shore, out of sight of the vessel: Then the Indians fled to the woods, still wanting our people to follow them; but being disarm'd, they were apprehensive the Indians would bush- fight them, so they thought proper to give over the pursuit, and to return to the boat.

Thursday the 12th, hard gales at W.N.W., with rain. At six this morning we again saw the two Indians, they made the same noise and motions to come ashore: At which I went with four of the people; the Indians walk'd and ran as before, looking back, and making signs to follow, which we did till we got to the place where the canoe lay with the four Indians in her. The two Indians got into the canoe, and put her off the shore before we could get nigh them: As soon as we got abreast of the canoe, they made signs as if they wanted clothing; we endeavour'd to make them understand we wanted fish, and would truck with them; they had none, but signified to us they would go and get some: They had a mangey dog, which they parted with to one of the people for a pair of cloth trowsers; this dog was soon kill'd, dress'd, and devour'd. Here we found plenty of muscles, which gave us great relief, having scarce any thing to subsist on for this week past.

Friday the 13th, very uncertain weather, and squally, the wind variable from W.N.W. to S.S.W. This morning all hands ashore a-fishing. Lieutenant E----rs of the marines kill'd a large seal or sea-dog, it is exceeding good food, and we judg'd it to have weigh'd seventeen score.

Saturday the 14th, little wind at W.N.W. and close weather, with rain. At five this morning cast loose, and steer'd south out between the islands, the weather clearing up, we saw the south shore: It first appear'd like a large island, stretching away to the westward, and at the west end two hammacoes like sugar-loaves, and to the southward of them a large point of rocks, steer'd S.E. until the point bore W. then steer'd S.E. by E. I took the point for Cape Pillar, and was fully assur'd of our being in the Streights.

Sunday the 15th, at three this morning cast loose, and row'd, but could not get out, so were oblig'd to put back, and make fast, it blowing hard, with thick weather all day, in the evening it clear'd up. This day several people drove a trade with their allowance, giving silver buckles for flour, valued at twelve shillings per pound, and before night it reach'd to a guinea, the people crying aloud for provisions, which are now so scarce, that several on board are actually starving thro' want.

Monday the 16th, at three this morning cast loose, being little wind, and steer'd up the Streights S.E. by E. the wind at N.W. At eight o'clock got a-breast of Cape Munday, at nine the cape bore W. distant four leagues, at noon running along shore, made two openings, which put the rest of the officers to a stand, not knowing which to take for their right passage. Asking my opinion, I gave it for keeping on the E.S.E. passage, the other lying S.E. by S. On which they said, Sir John Narborough bids us keep the south shore on board. I answer'd, that Sir John tells us E.S.E. is the direct course from Cape Pillar: I'll venture my life that we are now in the right passage; so we kept on E. by S. half S. After running a league or two up, and not seeing Cape Quod, nor any outlet, the wind blowing hard, we were for running no farther, whereas one league more would have convinc'd every body, but they all gave against me, that we were not in the right passage: The wind being at W.N.W. we could not turn back again; so that we were oblig'd to put into a cove lying on the north shore, where we found good anchoring in four fathom water: No provisions to be got here, being a barren rocky place, producing not any thing for the preservation of life. This afternoon died George Bateman, a boy, aged sixteen years: This poor creature starv'd, perish'd, and died a skeleton, for want of food. There are several more in the same miserable condition, and who, without a speedy relief, must undergo the same fate.

Tuesday the 17th, at five this morning, weigh'd, and row'd out, it being calm; at seven a fresh breeze right up the sound, we could not turn to windward not above a mile from where we last lay, we made fast along-side the rocks; all hands ashore a-fishing for muscles, limpets, and clams; here we found those shell-fish in abundance, which prov'd a very seasonable relief. Just before we got in, one of the men gave a guinea for a pound of flour, being all the money he had.

Wednesday the 18th, the wind at W.N.W. in hard squalls, with hail and snow. This morning cast loose, and stood over to the southward, believing the tide to run stronger and more true than on the north-shore, hoping shortly to get out of the sound, which is not above a league in the wind's eye. At two o'clock got into a cove on the south side, made fast along side of the rocks; all hands on shore getting muscles and other fish.

Thursday the 19th, fresh gales W.N.W. with hail and snow. This morning cast loose, and sail'd out, but could make no hand of it, our boat will not work to windward; put back from whence we came, and sent the people ashore to get muscles. This night departed this life Mr Thomas Caple, son of the late Lieutenant Caple, aged twelve years, who perish'd for want of food. There was a person on board who had some of the youth's money, upwards of twenty guineas, with a watch and silver cup. Those last the boy was willing to sell for flour; but his guardian told him, he would buy cloaths for him in the Brazil. The miserable youth cry'd, Sir, I shall never live to see the Brazil, I am starving now, almost starv'd to death, therefore, for God's sake, give me my silver cup to get me some victuals or buy some for me yourself. All his prayers and intreaties to him were vain, but heaven sent death to his relief, and put a period to his miseries in an instant. Persons who have not experienc'd the hardships we have met with, will wonder how people can be so inhuman to see their fellow-creatures starving before their faces, and afford 'em no relief: But hunger is void of all compassion; every person was so intent on the preservation of his own life, that he was regardless of another's, and the bowels of commiseration were shut up. We slip no opportunity, day or night, to enter into the suppos'd right Streights, but can get no ground. This day we serv'd flour and a piece of beef between two men for a week. Captain P----n, of his majesty's land forces, gave two guineas for two pounds of flour; this flour was sold him by the seamen, who live on muscles. Many of the people eat their flour raw as soon as they are serv'd it. The wind and weather not permitting us to go out, the men were employ'd in getting wood and water.

Tuesday the 24th, this morning it being calm, row'd out, at eight o'clock had the supposed right Streights open, having a breeze at W.N.W. S.E. by E. through the first reach, and S.S.E. through the second, then saw three islands, the largest of which lies on the north-shore, and there is a passage about two miles broad between that and the islands to the southward; there is also another passage between that island and the north- shore, of a mile and a half broad. Before you come to those islands there is a sound lying on the south-shore: You can see no passage until you come close up with the island, and then the imaginary Streights are not above two miles broad. Steer'd away for the island S.E. about two leagues, then came into a narrow passage, not above a cable's length over, which put us all to a stand, doubting of any farther passage. The wind took us a-head, and the tide being spent we put into a small cove, and made fast. At seven in the evening, being calm, cast loose, being willing to see if there was any opening, but to our great misfortune, found none, which very much surpriz'd us. The lieutenant is of opinion, that we are in a lagoon to the northward of the Streights. This I cannot believe, and am positive, if ever there was such a place in the world as the Streights of Magellan, we are now in them, and above thirty leagues up. If he or any of the officers had given themselves the trouble of coming upon deck, to have made proper remarks, we had been free from all this perplexity, and by this time out of the Streights to the northward. There is not an officer aboard, except the carpenter and myself, will keep the deck a moment longer than his watch, or has any regard to a reckoning, or any thing else. It is agreed to go back again.

Wednesday the 25th, little wind with rain. At eight this morning row'd out, and got about a league down; here we could get no ground, and were obliged to put back again.

Thursday the 26th, little wind; row'd out, got about five leagues down. This day we were in such want of provisions, that we were forced to cut up the seal skin and broil it, notwithstanding it has lain about the deck for this fortnight.

Friday the 27th, little wind and close weather. This morning cast loose and row'd down, had a fresh breeze at north, steer'd W.S.W. into another opening on the south-shore, hoping to find a passage out of the lagoon, as the lieutenant calls it, into the right Streights. After going two leagues up saw there was no opening, put back and made fast where we came from, being determined to go back and make Cape Pillar a second time, which is the south entrance of the Streights. Got abundance of large muscles, five or six inches long, a very great relief to us at present.

Sunday the 29th, hard gales from N.W. to S.W. with heavy rains. Great uneasiness among the people, many of them despairing of a deliverance, and crying aloud to serve provisions four days before the time. Finding no way to pacify them, we were obliged to serve them. We endeavoured to encourage and comfort them as much as lay in our power, and at length they seemed tolerably easy.

Monday the 30th, fresh gales at W. with continual rain. This day died three of our people, viz. Peter Delroy, barber, Thomas Thorpe and Thomas Woodhead, marines, they all perish'd for want of food: Several more are in the same way, being not able to go ashore for provisions, and those who are well cannot get sufficient for themselves, therefore the sick are left destitute of all relief. There is one thing to be taken notice of in the death of those people, that some hours before they die they are taken lightheaded, and fall a joking and laughing, and in this humour they expire.

Tuesday, December the 1st, 1741, little wind, and fair weather, which is a kind of prodigy in those parts. In the morning put out of the cove, and got four leagues down; then the wind took us a-head, and we put into another cove where we got muscles and limpets. At four this afternoon saw an Indian canoe coming over from the north-shore; they landed two of their men to the leeward of the cove, they came opposite to us, and viewed us, then went back, and came with the canoe within a cable's length of our boat, but no nearer, so that we had no opportunity to truck with them.

Wednesday the 2d, little wind, with rain. At nine this morning row'd out and got about a league farther down; the wind beginning to blow fresh, we put into another cove, and found plenty of shell-fish, which kept up our spirits greatly, for it is enough to deject any thinking man, to see that the boat will not turn to windward, being of such length, and swimming so buoyant upon the water, that the wind, when close haul'd, throws her to leeward: We have been seventeen days going seven or eight leagues to windward, which must make our passage very long and uncomfortable.

Friday the 4th, little wind at S. and fair. This morning rowed out, at ten got down, where we saw a smoke, but no people; we saw a dog running along shore, and keeping company with the boat for above a mile; we then put in, with a design, to shoot him, but he soon disappointed us, by taking into the woods. We put off again with a fine breeze, steering N.W. by W. down the Streights. The carpenter gave a guinea this day for a pound of flour, which he made into cakes, and eat instantly. At six in the evening abreast of Cape Munday; at eight abreast of Cape Upright, being fair weather. Intend to keep under sail all night.

Saturday the 5th, little wind and fair: At four this morning I saw Cape Pillar, bearing W. by N. distant eight leagues; saw a smoke on the south shore, and at noon we saw a smoke on the north shore, but we did not care to lose time: At three o'clock saw Cape Desseada, bearing from Cape Pillar S.W. distant four leagues, at four o'clock wore the boat, and steered E.S.E. The lieutenant was now fully convinced we have been all along in the right Streights, and had we run but one league further, on Monday, Nov. 17, we had escaped all this trouble and anxiety: As for my own part, I was very well assured, from the first entrance, that we were right, but the lieutenant would not believe that it was Cape Pillar on the S. shore coming into the Streights, but thought we were in a lagoon to the northward; so that we have been above a fortnight coming back to rectify mistakes, and to look at Cape Pillar a second time: At eight o'clock came abreast of the smoke seen in the morning. The people being well assured that we are actually in the Streights of Magellan, are all alive. Wind at W.S.W.

Sunday, little wind at W. with rain; at three this morning abreast of Cape Munday; at six abreast of Cape de Quod, opposite to which, on the south shore, saw a smoke, on which we went ashore to the Indians, who came out on a point of land, at the entrance of a cove, hollowing and crying, Bona! Bona! endeavouring to make us understand they were our friends; when ashore, we traded with them for two dogs, three brant geese, and some seal, which supply was very acceptable to us; we supped on the dogs, and thought them equal in goodness to the best mutton in England. We took from the Indians a canoe, made of the bark of trees, but soon towed her under water, and were obliged to cut her loose; steered N.E. by E. At eight o'clock abreast of St Jerom's Sound; at twelve abreast of Royal Island.

The Indians we saw in the Streights of Magellan are people of a middle stature, and well shaped, their complexion of a tawny olive colour, their hair exceeding black, but not very long, they have round faces and small noses, their eyes little and black, their teeth are smooth and even, and close set, of an incomparable whiteness, they are very active in body, and run with a surprising agility, they wear on their heads white feathered caps, their bodies are covered with the skins of seals and guinacoes. The women, as soon as they saw us, fled into the woods, so that we can give no description of them.

Monday the 7th, fresh gales at W.N.W. and fine weather; at six this morning abreast of Cape Forward, steered N. by E. At nine abreast of Port Famine, at twelve at noon put in at Freshwater bay, and filled one cask of water, having none aboard; at one o'clock put out again, steered N. by E. expecting plenty of wood and water at Elizabeth's Island; at nine at night passed by Sandy Point, it bore S.S.E. and the island St George E.N.E. distant three leagues.

Tuesday the 8th, at four this morning, being calm, weighed, and rowed towards Elizabeth's Island, it bearing W.N.W. At four in the afternoon anchored off the northmost in eight fathom water, fine sand, about half a cable's length from the shore put the vessel in, and landed some people to see for wood and water. In the evening the people came aboard, having been all over the island in search of wood and water, but found none; here indeed we found shaggs and sea-gulls in great numbers, it being breeding time, we got a vast quantity of their eggs, most of them having young ones in the shell: However, we beat them up all together, with a little flour, and made a very rich pudding. Elizabeth's Island is a beautiful spot of ground to appearance, with very good pasture, but it is entirely barren of any thing for the support of man. This day John Turner, marine, perished for want of food.

Wednesday the 9th, at four this morning weighed, and steered E.N.E. for the Narrows, with the wind at S.S.W., when abreast ef the Sweepstakes Foreland, steered S.S.E. on purpose to look for water; after going along shore about six leagues into a deep bay, we saw a fine delightful country: Here we saw the guianacoes in great numbers, ten or twelve in a drove; they are to be seen in such droves all along the shore for several leagues.

The guianacoe is as large as any English deer, with a long neck, his head, mouth, and ears resembling a sheep; he has very long slender legs, and is cloven-footed like a deer, with a short bushy tail of a reddish colour; his back is covered with red wool, pretty long; but down his sides, and all the belly part, is white wool: Those guianacoes, though at a distance very much resembling the female deer, are probably the sheep of this country; they are exceeding nimble, of an exquisite quick sight, very shy, and difficult to be shot: At noon, finding neither wood nor water, wore to the northward, at three got abreast of the Foreland, hauled in for Fish Cove, which lieth just round the eastern point; here we expected to land and shoot some of the guianacoes, but when abreast of the Cove, the wind blew so hard right out, that we were obliged to bear away for the first Narrow, it being impossible to get in. At eight this evening entered the first Narrow, meeting the flood, which runs here very strong; at twelve came to an anchor in five fathom, about a mile off shore. The tide floweth on the western shore seven hours, and ebbs five. This day Robert Vicars, marine, perished with want.

Thursday the 10th, at four this morning weighed, and came to sail; at six got out of the first Narrow, hauled in for a deep bay on the north shore to seek for water: The boatswain swam ashore, and in half an hour afterwards came down on the beach, and brought us the news of finding fresh water. It being rocky ground and ebbing water, the vessel struck; we were obliged in this exigence to slip the cable, time not permitting us to haul up the anchor, we stood off, and on the shore till half flood, then went in and took the cable on board: After landing some people with casks to fill, hauled the anchor up, and went about two miles farther out.

Friday the 11th, at three this morning the boat struck upon the tide of ebb, it ebbing so fast we could not get her off, in a quarter of an hour's time the boat was dry; we were favoured with little wind and smooth water, otherwise she must have stove to pieces, the ground being very foul; it ebbs dry above a league off, and there is shoal water a great deal further out, so that it is dangerous for a ship to haul into this bay. While the boat was dry got all the water casks out of the hold, and put them ashore to be filled. At six hauled the boat off, having received no damage; at eight, it being four feet flood, run the boat close in shore and took off our water, the whole quantity being four tons, out of which we were obliged to leave two puncheons, one quarter-cask, with three muskets, a funnel, and some other necessaries, and were very much concerned lest we should also leave some of the people ashore. The wind blowing hard, and the sea tumbling in, we were under a necessity of hauling off and putting to sea, for fear of losing the boat. Since we left the island where the Wager was lost, we have several times very narrowly escaped being made a wreck, and sometimes have been preserved when we have seen our fate before our eyes, and every moment expected it, and when all the conduct and ability of men could have availed nothing. Any one who has been a witness of those providential deliverances, and doubts the being of a Supreme Power, disqualifies himself from any title to all future mercy, and justly deserves the wrath of an incensed Deity. This day, at noon, being well out of the bay, and nigh mid-channel over, steered E.N.E. for Cape Virgin Mary, with a fine gale at S.W. At one we saw the cape bearing N.E, by E. distant nine leagues; at seven in the evening saw a low point of flat land, stretching away from the cape S.S.E. two leagues; at eight little or no wind, steered E. by S. at twelve at night doubled the point, the wind at W. right in the middle of the bay, where we filled the water; in land lie two peaks, exactly like ass's ears. We would advise all vessels from hauling into this bay, it being shoal water and foul ground. As for every other part of the Straights of Magellan, from Cape Victory to Cape Virgin Mary, we recommend Sir John Narborough, who in his account is so just and exact, that we think it is impossible for any man living to mend his works. We have been a month in those Streights, from our first sight of Cape Pillar to Cape Virgin Mary. The whole length of the Streights, the reaches and turnings included, is reckoned one hundred and sixteen leagues.

Saturday the 12th, little wind, and fair weather. At one this morning steered N. by W. At four the wind came to N.W. Tacked and stood to the westward; the two points stretching off from the cape bore N.W. by W. distant two leagues. At noon, the wind being at N.E. steering along shore from the cape, saw on the shore three men, on mules or horses, riding towards us; when they came abreast of us, they stopped and made signals, waving their hats, as though they wanted to speak with us; at which we edged close to the shore, where we saw to the number of twenty; five of them rode abreast, the others were on foot, having a large store of cattle with them. On sight of this, we anchored within a mile of the shore. The cape bore W.S.W. distant seven leagues, the swell tumbling in from the sea, would not permit us to speak with'em, by their motions, actions, cloathing, and by their whole behaviour, we took them for Christians: It being a plain level land, they rode backwards and forwards like racers, waving white handkerchiefs, and making signs for us going into a bay, which lay about a league to the northward, which we designed to do on the tide of ebb. The flood being very strong against us, they waited on the shore till the tide was spent; we weighed and stood to northward, the wind blowing right in from sea, and a great swell, we could not clear the land, so that we wore and stood to the southward, and very narrowly escaped clearing the breakers off the pitch of the cape, which lay about two leagues out at sea to the southward. At nine at night the cape bore W. distant six leagues; stood out to sea till eleven o'clock, then wore and stood in, the wind shifting to N.N.E. The next morning we steered in for the bay, and saw those people again; but the wind soon afterwards veering to the westward, and blowing strong, we were obliged to bear away: We could not by any means come to the knowledge of these people; whether they are unfortunate creatures that have been cast away, or whether they are inhabitants about the river Gallegoes, we can't tell.

Tuesday the 15th, fresh gales and fair weather. This morning saw the land; the southmost point bore W.S.W., the northmost point N.N.E. At eight saw two ledges of rocks, running two leagues out from a point of land which makes like an old castle. At noon the extremes of the land bore W. by N. distant three leagues, had a good observation, latitude 49: 10 S. Course made this twenty-four hours is N. by E. half E. distant 104 miles, longitude in 74: 05 W.

Wednesday, the 16th, at noon abreast of Penguin island, not above half a mile from shore. We saw on this island seals and penguins without number, the shore being entirely covered with them. We find the penguin exactly to answer Sir John Narborough's description; therefore we beg leave to give it the reader in that excellent navigator's own words: "The penguin is a fowl that lives by catching and eating fish, which he dives for, and is very nimble in the water; he is as big as a brant goose, and weighs near about eight pounds; they have no wings, but flat stumps like fins; their coat is a downy stumped feather; they are blackish grey on the backs and heads, and white about their necks and down their bellies; they are short-legged like a goose, and stand upright like little children in white aprons, in companies together; they are full-necked, and headed and beaked like a crow, only the point of their bill turns down a little; they will bite hard, but they are very tame, and will drive in herds to your boat-side like sheep, and there you may knock'em on the head, all one after another; they will not make any great haste away." We steered N.W. by N. for the harbour of Port Desire: The going into this harbour is very remarkable; on the south side lies, one mile in the land, an high peaked-tip rock, much like a tower, looking as though it was a work of art set up for a land-mark to steer into this harbour; this rock is forty feet high. At five o'clock got into the harbour, run up to Seal Island, which lieth about a league up; here we killed more seal in half an hour than we could carry off, being obliged to leave the greatest part of what we killed behind. The people eating greedily of the seal, were seized with violent fevers and pains in their heads. While we were at Port Desire we had seal and fowl in abundance. The carpenter found here a parcel of bricks, some of'em with letters cut in them, on one of those bricks these words were very plain and legible, viz. Capt. Straiton, 16 Cannons, 1687. Those we imagine have been laid here from a wreck. The carpenter with six men went in search of water, a mile up the water's side; they found Peckett's well, mention'd in Sir John Narborough's book; the spring is so small, that it doth not give above thirty gallons per day, but the well being full, supplied us. The people grow very turbulent and uneasy, requiring flour to be served out; which, in our present circumstance, is a most unreasonable request; we have but one cask of flour on board, and a great distance to run into the Brazil, and no other provision in the boat but the seal we have killed here: Nay, they carry their demands much higher, insisting that the marine officers, and such people as cannot be assisting in working the boat, shall have but half the allowance of the rest; accordingly they have pitched upon twenty to be served half a pound of flour each man, and themselves a pound. This distinction the half-pounders complain of, and that twenty are selected to be starved. While we were at Port Desire, one day dressing our victuals, we set fire to the grass; instantly the flames spread, and immediately we saw the whole country in a conflagration, and the next day, from the watering-place, we saw the smoke at a distance, so that then the fire was not extinguished.

Friday the 25th, little wind, and fair weather; went up to our slaughter- house in Seal island, and took on board our sea-store, which we completed in half an hour's time; turned down the harbour with the tide of ebb, in the evening, the wind at N.E. could make no hand of it, so bore away for the harbour again, and came to an anchor.

Saturday the 26th, at three in the morning, sailed out of Port Desire harbour; steered out E.N.E. At six Penguin island bore S. by E. distant six leagues, and Cape Blanco N.W. by N. four leagues. This day I took my departure from Cape Blanco; I judge the cape to lie in the longitude of 71: 00 W. from the meridian of London.

Monday the 28th, moderate gales, and fair. This day served out all the flour in the boat, at three pound and a half to each man. We have now nothing to live on but seal, and what Providence throws in our way.

Friday, January the 1st, 1741-2, fresh gales and fair weather, with a great sea. At ten last night shifting the man at the helm, brought her by the lee, broke the boom; and lost a seaman overboard. The greatest part of our seal taken in at Port Desire, for want of salt to cure it there, now stinks very much; but having nothing else we are obliged to eat it. We are now miserable beyond description, having nothing to feed on ourselves, and at the same time almost eaten up with vermin.

Wednesday the 6th, departed this life Mr Thomas Harvey, the purser; he died a skeleton for want of food: This gentleman probably was the first purser belonging to his majesty's service that ever perished with hunger. We see daily a great number of whales.

Sunday the 10th, this day at noon, in working the bearings, and distant to Cape St Andrew, do find myself not above thirteen leagues distant from the land, therefore hauled in N.W. to make it before night. We saw to-day abundance of insects, particularly butterflies and horse-stingers. We have nothing to eat but some stinking seal, and not above twenty out of the forty-three which are now alive have even that, and such hath been our condition for this week past; nor are we better off in regard to water, there not being above eighty gallons on board: Never were beheld a parcel of more miserable objects, there are not above fifteen of us healthy, (if people may be called healthy that are scarce able to crawl). I am reckoned at present one of the strongest men in the boat, yet can hardly stand on my legs ten minutes together, nor even that short space of time without holding: Every man of us hath had a new coat of skin from head to foot: We that are in the best state of health do all we can to encourage the rest. At four this afternoon, we were almost transported with joy at the sight of land, (having seen no land for fourteen days before) the extremes of which bore N.W. about seven leagues; we ran in with it, and at eight anchored in eight fathom; fine sand about a league from the shore; the northmost point bore about N.E., the southmost point about S.W. by S. This day perished for want of food, serjeant Ringall.

Monday the 11th, at four this morning weighed, and came to sail, steering along shore N.E. by E. This is a pleasant and delightful country to sail by: We kept within a mile of the shore; we saw horses and large dogs in great numbers, the shore being perfectly covered with them. At noon I had a good observation in the latitude of 38: 40 S. At the same time a-head land, which I took for Cape St Andrew's; it is a long sandy point, very low, where a shoal runs off S.E. about three leagues. Sounded, and had but two fathom and half at high-water. When we got clear of this, we steered N.E. into a sandy bay, and anchored there in three fathom and half, fine sand; the north point bore N.N.W., the south point S.E. by E. Here is a great swell, and shoal water. This bay we call Shoalwater Bay.

Tuesday the 12th, lying in Shoalwater Bay, the wind at S.E. and fair weather. Having nothing on board the vessel to eat, and but one cask of water to drink, we put her in as nigh as we could venture; so that any person who had the least skill in swimming, might get ashore: Here runs a pretty large surf, which may endanger our vessel; this puts us to a stand: To go from hence without meat or drink is certain death. A few of the healthiest were resolved to swim on shore, to get water and provisions; the officers, viz. the boatswain, carpenter, and Lieutenant E----rs, to animate the rest, first leaped into the water; eleven of the people followed them; in this attempt one of the marines was unfortunately drowned: We tossed overboard four quarter-casks to fill with water; lashing to the cask two fire-locks on each side, with ammunition for shooting. When the officers and people got on shore, they saw thousands of horses and dogs; the dogs are of a mongril breed, and very large. They also saw abundance of parrots and seals on the rocks, but not a bush growing on the place; they made a fire with horse dung, and shot a great many seal, which they cut up in quarters to bring aboard. One of the water-casks being leaky, they cut it up, and converted it into fuel to dress the seal. They caught four armadilloes, they are much larger than our hedge-hogs, and very like them; their bodies are cased all over with shells, shutting under one another like shells of armour. In this country thirteen of his majesty's British subjects put to flight a thousand Spanish horse. Horses are more numerous here, than sheep are on the plains in Dorset and Wiltshire. We on board see abundance of seal lying on the shore cut in pieces, but the wind blows so hard we can by no means get at it. We think ourselves now worse off than ever, for we are actually starving in the sight of plenty. We have but two people on board that can swim; to give them all the assistance we can, the lieutenant and myself, with the rest of the people, proposed to haul the vessel nearer in, and make a raft for one of the two to swim ashore on, and to carry a line to haul some of the seal aboard: With much entreaty these two swimmers were prevailed on to cast lots; the lot falling on the weakest of 'em, who was a young lad about fifteen years of age, and scarce able to stand, we would not suffer him to go. While our brethren were regaling in the fulness of plenty ashore, we aboard were obliged to strip the hatches of a seal-skin, which has been for some time nailed on, and made use of for a tarpawlin; we burnt the hair off the skin, and for want of any thing else fell to chewing the seal-skin.

Wednesday the 13th, fine weather and calm. At six this morning the boatswain shot a horse, and the people a wild dog. The horse was branded on the left buttock with these letters A.R. By this we conjecture there are inhabitants not far off. At nine veered the boat in, lashed the oars to the hatches, and made a stage to haul up the seal. The people swam off three casks of water, sent on shore one quarter-cask more, and two breakers. Came aboard the boatswain, carpenter, and Lieutenant E----rs, and four men more are getting the seal and the horse on board, which was no sooner in the vessel than a sea-breeze came in, and blowed so hard, that we were obliged to weigh, leaving ashore one quarter-cask, two breakers, and eight of the people. The wind at E.S.E. and a tumbling sea, came to an anchor about a league off the shore; we shared all the provisions among the company; we still see the people ashore, but can't get them off.

Thursday the 14th, hard gales at E.S.E. and fair weather. Last night the sea was so great, that it broke the rudder-head off; we were doubtful every moment of the vessel's parting, which if she had, we must have been all of us inevitably lost. We were obliged to put to sea, not being able to get the people off. We sent ashore in a scuttled puncheon some wearing apparel, four muskets, with balls, powder, flints, candles, and several necessaries, and also a letter to acquaint them of the danger we were in, and of the impossibility of our riding it out till they could get off.

In Freshwater Bay, dated on board the Speedwell schooner, on the coast of South America, in the latitude of 37: 25 S. longitude from the meridian of London, 65: 00 W. this 14th day of January, 1741-2.

"These are to certify the right honourable the lords commissioners for executing the office of lord high admiral of Great Britain, etc. That we, whose names are undermentioned, having nothing left on board the vessel but one quarter-cask of water, were obliged to put into the first place we could for subsistence, which, was in Freshwater-Bay; where we came to an anchor, as near the shore as we could, without endangering the vessel, having no boat aboard, and a large surf on the shore, therefore Mr King the boatswain, Mr Cummins the carpenter, and Lieutenant Ewers, with eleven of the people, jumped overboard, in order to swim ashore, with three casks of water, in which attempt James Greenham was drowned in the surf off the shore: The sea-breeze coming on, prevented the people getting on board the same night; therefore, on Wednesday morning, it being then calm, they brought to the beach the casks filled with water, with seal and other provisions in great quantities, which we hauled on board. The boatswain, carpenter, Lieutenant Ewers, and three of the people, swam off, but the sea-breeze coming in, and the surf rising, the rest were discouraged from coming off; we hauled a good birth off the shore, where we lay the remainder of the day, and all the night. The greatness of the sea broke off our rudder-head, and we expected every minute the vessel would founder at her anchor. Thursday morning we saw no probability of the people coming aboard, and the wind coming out of the sea, and not one stick of fire-wood in the vessel to dress our victuals, and it being every man's opinion that we must put to sea or perish, we got up a scuttled cask, and put into it all manner of necessaries, with four small arms lashed to the cask, and a letter to acquaint them of our danger, which cask we saw them receive, as also the letter that was in it; they then fell on their knees, and made signals wishing us well, at which we got under sail, and left our brethren, whose names are under-mentioned,

Sign'd by
Robert Beans, lieutenant
John King, boatswain
John Bulkeley, gunner
Thomas Clark, master
John Cummins, carpenter
Robert Elliot, surgeon's mate
John Jones, master's mate
John Snow, ditto.

The names of the people left on shore in the latitude of 35' 25 S. longitude 65: 00 W.

Names. Where born.
Guy Broadwater, Blackwall.
John Duck, London.
Samuel Cooper, Ipswich.
Benjamin Smith, Southwark.
Joseph Clinch, Ditto.
John Allen, Gosport.
John Andrews, Manchester.
Isaac Morris, Topsham."

Those people had a good prospect of getting provisions, and we believe inhabitants are not far off; they have all necessaries for shooting; we hope to see them again, but at present we leave them to the care of Providence and the wide world. At noon sailed hence, at four in the afternoon could not clear the land, and were obliged to anchor in five fathom, two leagues from the shore, the northmost point of land bore N.E. by N. and the southmost point S. by W. Hard gales at E.N.E. and a great sea. At noon in latitude 38: 00.

Friday the 15th, fresh gales at N.N.W. and a great sea tumbling into the bay. We are not able to ride it out, therefore, at four in the afternoon, got under sail, and stood off to sea; the southmost land bore S.W. by S. distant five leagues.

Monday the 18th, in the latitude of 36: 29 S. the north point of Freshwater-Bay bearing S.W. distant forty-four leagues, we went to an allowance of water, at a pint a man per day, having on board not above twenty gallons for thirty-three souls.

Tuesday the 19th, little wind at S. and clear weather. At four this morning saw breakers right a-head; sounded, and found five fathom; saw the land making like an island, bearing N.E. by E. distant twelve leagues; steered N. for about a mile or two, shoaled the water from two fathom to nine feet, then steer'd N.N.E. and deepen'd the water to five fathom. By the appearance of the land, we are well up the river of Plate, and do take the breakers for the English bank. Steer'd and sail'd all day E.N.E. along shore, in the evening anchor'd in a fine sandy bay; saw two men coming down on horseback, the boatswain swam ashore, and got up behind one of them, and rode away to their caravans. When we made the land, we had not one drop of water on board: Several people swam ashore to fill water, one of 'em, when ashore, drank very plentifully of water; in attempting to come off, was so weak, that he could not reach the vessel, but was unfortunately drown'd. Got one cask of water aboard, which reviv'd us exceedingly.

Wednesday the 20th, Mr Cummins and myself went ashore, four of the inhabitants came down to us on horseback. As I could talk Portugueze, I fell into discourse with them. They told me the English were still at war with the Spaniards, that they had two fifty-gun ships up the river of Plate, and one sixty gun ship cruizing off Cape St Mary's; and not above six weeks ago a seventy gun ship lying at anchor, parted from her anchors and drove on shore; that the ship was lost, and every man perish'd. They also told me they were Spaniards, Castilians, and fishermen, that they came here a fishing, the fish they took they salted and dried, then sold them at Buenos Aires. The town they belong'd to they called Mount de Vidia, two days journey from hence. I ask'd 'em how they came to live in the king of Portugal's land. They said there were a great many Spanish settlements on this side, and gave us an invitation to their caravan; we got up behind them, and rode about a mile to it, where they entertained us with good junk beef, roasted and boyl'd, with good white bread. We sought to buy some provisions of 'em, but they had none but twenty-six loaves, about as big as two-penny loaves in England, which they would not part with under four guineas. We being in a weak condition, scarce able to stand on our legs, and without bread for a long time, gave them their price. Their patron told us at the same time, if it should be known that they had supplied us, they should be all hang'd. He promis'd, if we would give him a fire-lock, he would get us some wild fowl, and as many ducks in an hour or two as would serve all the people on board. Mr Cummins sent for his fire-lock, and gave it him, with some powder and sluggs. On our coming away, finding one of their company missing with a horse, we were apprehensive of his being gone to betray us; therefore immediately went on board, got our water in, and made all ready for sailing to Rio Grand.

Thursday the 21st, little wind at N.W. and fair weather. At four this morning got under sail, steered E.N.E. At twelve saw low land stretch off to the eastward, which bore E. by S. At four the tide of flood flowing strong in obliged us to come to an anchor in a large bay, in eight fathom water; the south point bore S.S.W. the east point E.S.E.; at eight at night got under sail, steering E.S.E.

Friday the 22d, little wind at N. and fair weather. At eight this morning saw Cape St Mary's, bearing N.W. distant ten leagues; at noon it bore W.S.W. and the north land S.E. by E.

Sunday 23d, little wind, and calm. In the morning, not seeing the land, steer'd in N.; at noon saw Cape St Mary's, bearing N.W. distant ten leagues; latitude per observation 34: 53 S. At seven in the evening, being in shore and calm, anchored in fourteen fathom water, sandy ground, the cape bearing W. by N. and the northmost land N. by E. This day departed this life Mr Thomas Clark the master, as did also his son the day following.

Sunday the 24th, the wind at S. and hazy weather. At two in the morning weighed and came to sail, steering N.E. within a league of the shore. At three in the afternoon saw three islands, the northmost of which is the most remarkable one I ever beheld, appearing like a church with a lofty tower; at four we saw three islands more, steer'd N. quarter W. between those islands, until we saw the main land. The most remarkable of these islands is about four miles from the main; they are all steep. At eight anchored in fourteen fathom, fine sand.

Monday the 25th, a fresh gale at E.N.E. and cloudy weather. At nine this morning got under sail, in order to go back to those islands to get some seal, there being great numbers on the rocks, and we in great want of provision, with the wind against us. We took the opportunity of the wind back to the islands, but were disappointed; being not able to get ashore for provisions, came to an anchor in fourteen fathom, sandy ground. Hard gales at N.N.E. with thunder, lightning and rain, all night.

Tuesday the 26th, this morning moderate gales at N.W. and fair weather, got under sail; after clear of the islands, steer'd N.E. by N. keeping along shore: It is a fine level land, and regular soundings fifteen fathom, five leagues off the land. We have no seal, nor any other kind of food on board. We have a fair wind, and not far from our desired port; so that we are in pretty good spirits. This day died the oldest man belonging to us, Thomas Maclean, cook, aged 82 years.

Wednesday the 27th, moderate gales at W. steered N. and sail'd all day within a cable's length of the shore in three fathom water. We have now nothing but a little water to support nature. At noon had an observation, latitude in 32: 40 south: I reckon myself 18 leagues from the Rio Grand, and hope to see it in the morning.

Thursday the 28th, kept the shore close aboard, and sounded every half hour, not caring to go within three fathom, nor keep without five, sailing along by the lead all night. At six in the morning saw the opening of the river Grand; kept within the breakers of the bar, having at some times not above seven feet water at half flood; steer'd N.E. by E. until the river's mouth was fairly open; then steer'd N. and N.N.W. until abreast of the town; anchored on the east shore in two fathom water. There presently came a boat from the shore, with a serjeant of the army, and one soldier. The lieutenant, myself, and Mr Cummins, with Captain P----n of the land forces, went on shore with them. The commandant, the officers, and people of the place, receiv'd us in a most tender and friendly manner. They instantly sent on board to the people four quarters of beef, and two bags of Farine bread. We were conducted to the surgeon's house, the handsomest habitation in the place, where we were most hospitably entertain'd. At four in the afternoon the governor came to town; After a strict enquiry into our misfortunes, and the reasons of our coming into this port, being somewhat doubtful that we might be inspectors of their coast, he began to examine me, the lieutenant having reported me to him as pilot. He ask'd me if there was a chart of the coast on board; and, if not, how it was possible we could hit the bar, and venture into so hazardous a place as this is? I told him, as for a chart, we had none of any kind, but I had a good observation the day before, that our vessel drew but a small draught of water, that we kept a lead always going, and in the necessity we were in, we were oblig'd, at all events, to venture, and if we had not seen the opening of the river before night, we must have been compell'd to run the vessel ashore. He examin'd me also concerning the places we stopt at, from Cape Virgin Mary to this port, and more particularly relating to the river Plate. He was very nice in his enquiry of our putting in at Cape St Mary's, and of the bearings and distance along shore from thence to this port. When he thoroughly satisfy'd himself, he embraced us and blest himself to think of our deliverance, which he term'd a miracle. He offer'd every thing the country could afford to our relief; the sick were order'd to be taken care of in the hospital: He took the lieutenant and the land officers home with him, and desired the commandant to see that the rest of the officers and people wanted for nothing. Before he went he inform'd us, that his majesty's ships the Severn and Pearl were at Rio Janeiro, in great distress; that they had sent to England for men, and could not sail from thence until the arrival of the Flota, which would be in May or June. He also told us, that we should be dispatch'd in the first vessel which arriv'd in this port, for he did not think we could with safety go any farther in our own, and that there could not be found twelve seamen in the Brazils that would venture over the bar in her to sail to Rio Janeiro; therefore he order'd our little Speedwell ashore: This wonder the people are continually flocking to see; and it is now about nine months since we were cast away in the Wager; in which time, I believe, no mortals have experienc'd more difficulties and miseries than we have. This day may be justly stiled the day of our deliverance, and ought to be remember'd accordingly.

Sunday the 31st, little or nothing remarkable since the day we came in, only a wonderful change in our diet, live on the best the country can produce, and have plenty of every thing. This afternoon the governor, commandant, and commissary, came on board, to see our little Speedwell; they were surpriz'd that thirty souls, the number of people now living, could be stowed in so small a vessel; but that she could contain the number which first embark'd with us was to them amazing, and beyond all belief: They could not conceive how the man at the helm could steer without falling overboard, there not being above four inches rise from the deck. I told them he sat down, and clapp'd his feet against the rise, and show'd them in what manner we secured ourselves. The governor, after viewing the vessel over, told us, we were more welcome to him in the miserable condition we arriv'd than if we had brought all the wealth in the world with us. At the same time he fully assur'd us, we should be supply'd with every thing that the country could afford; that he would dispatch us the first opportunity to Rio Janeiro, and whenever we stood in need of any thing, he order'd us to acquaint the commandant, and our wants should be instantly supply'd. He then took leave of us, and wished us well. All the deference and dutiful respect we could shew him, to express a grateful sense of his favour, was by manning the vessel, and giving him three cheers. The next day arriv'd at this place the brigadier-governor of the island St Catharine; he came close by our vessel, we mann'd her, and gave him three cheers. The soldiers of the garrison, having twenty months arrears due to them, expected the brigadier was coming to pay them, but when they found themselves disappointed, they made a great disturbance among themselves. I apply'd to the commandant for a house, the vessel, in rainy weather, not being fit to live in; he order'd me one joining to his own, and gave me the key. I took with me Mr Cummins, Mr Jones, Mr Snow, Mr Oakley, and the cooper; we brought our trifling necessaries on shore, and remov'd to our new habitation: Here we were dry and warm, and though we had no bedding, we lodg'd very comfortably. Since the loss of the Wager, we have been used to lie hard; at present we think ourselves very happily fix'd, and heartily wish that all the persons who surviv'd the loss of the ship were in so good a situation as ourselves.

Tuesday, February the 2d, 1741-2, great murmurings among the soldiers; they detain'd the brigadier from going back, as he intended, this morning, till he promis'd to dispatch the money, cloaths, and provisions, and to see their grievances adjusted. On those terms they have agreed he shall go; and this evening he return'd for St Catharine's. We apprehended, till now, that the right officers were in place; but we find ourselves mistaken. Some time before we arrived here, there was an insurrection among the soldiers: Their design was against the governor; but by his address, and fair promises of seeing them righted, he diverted the storm from himself, and got himself continued in his station, as were also the major and commissary. The soldiers dismiss'd the rest of the officers, and supply'd their places with their own people; though they were lately private men, they appear'd very grand, and were not distinguish'd in dress from proper officers. The disturbance at Rio Grand is of no service to us, for we feel the effects of it, our allowance is now so small that it will hardly support nature, the people have been without Farina, which is their bread, for some days past. We apply'd to the governor, who promis'd to supply us the next day; accordingly we went for a supply, which created fresh murmurings among the soldiers; however we got a small quantity of bread to supply us for ten days. The store-keeper shew'd me all the provisions, which, considering there were a thousand to draw their subsistence from it, was a small stock indeed, and not above six weeks at the present allowance. He told me we were serv'd equally with the soldiers, and when more stores came, which they shortly expected, our allowance should be encreas'd. I think, in reason, this is as much as we can expect. The lieutenant not coming nigh us since our first landing, I went with the people up to him at the governor's, about two miles from this port, to endeavour to prevail with him to get us dispatch'd, acquainting him of the call and necessity there was for our assistance on board the two distress'd ships at Rio Janeiro. He said he had spoke to the governor, and could not get us dispatch'd till another vessel came in. I told him, as the garrison were in want of provisions, what we were living on here would carry us off, and if any misfortune should attend the vessel expected in with the provisions, we should be put very hard to it for a subsistence. He promis'd to acquaint the governor; on which I took my leave.

February the 17th, this evening came into this garrison three seamen, giving an account of their belonging to a vessel with provisions and stores for this place, from Rio Janeiro, that they had been from thence three months, and had been off the bar waiting an opportunity to come in; that not having any fresh water aboard, they were oblig'd to come to an anchor ten leagues to the southward of this port, that a canoe was sent with those three men to fill the water, but the wind coming in from the sea, and blowing hard, oblig'd the vessel to put to sea, and leave them ashore, from whence they travelled here, and believ'd the vessel was gone to St Catharine's. The governor, not satisfy'd with this report, took them for spies, and kept them as such. However, in a day or two afterwards, he dispatch'd a pilot and two seamen for the island St Catharine, to bring the vessel round, in case she should be there.

I took this opportunity of sending a letter by them to the Honourable Captain Murray, commander of his majesty's ship the Pearl, at Rio Janeiro; desiring them to order it to be dispatch'd by the first ship from St Catharine's to the Rio Janeiro.

"Honourable Sir,

"I take it as a duty incumbent on me to acquaint you that his majesty's ship the Wager was wrecked on a desolate island on the coast of Patagonia, in the latitude of 47 00 S. and W. longitude from the meridian of London 81 30, on the 14th of May, 1741. After lengthening the longboat, and fitting her in the best manner we could, launched her on the 13th of October, and embarked and sailed, on the 14th, with the barge and cutter, to the number of eighty-one souls in all. Captain Cheap,--at his own request, tarried behind, with Lieutenant Hamilton, and Mr Elliot, the surgeon. After a long and fatiguing passage, coming through the Streights of Magellan, we arrived here the 28th of January, 1741-2, bringing into this port alive to the number of thirty, viz.

Robert Beans, lieutenant
John Bulkeley, gunner
John Cummins, carpenter
Robert Elliot, surgeon's mate
John Jones, master's mate
John Snow, ditto
John Mooring, boatswain's mate
John Young, cooper
William Oram, carpenter's crew
John King, boatswains
Nicholas Griselham, seaman
Samuel Stook, ditto
James Mac Cawlo, ditto
William Lane, ditto
John Montgomery, ditto
John George, ditto
Richard East, ditto
James Butler, ditto
John Pitman, ditto
Job Barns, seaman
John Shoreham, ditto
Thomas Edmunds, ditto
Richard Powell, ditto
Diego Findall, (the Portugueze boy).
Captain Robert Pemberton, of his majesty's
land forces
Lieutenants Ewers and Fielding, ditto
Vincent Oakley, surgeon of ditto
And two marines.

All which are living at present, and waiting an opportunity of a passage in a Portugueze vessel, our own not being in a condition to proceed any farther, having no sails, and being so bad in all other respects, that the governor will not suffer us to hazard our lives in her, but hath promised to dispatch us in the very first vessel that arrives in this port, where we, with impatience, are obliged to tarry. We humbly pay our duty to Captain Leg, praying the representation of this to him. From, Most honourable Sir, Yours, &c."

Saturday the 20th, last night the three seamen which came here, as mention'd before, with five more of this place, attempted to run away with one of the large boats; but they were pursu'd and taken: Their design was for the river Plate, the wind then favouring them. This was evident, that the governor was right in his conjecture, and did not suspect them wrongfully; they are now prisoners in the guard-house. The next morning I went to the lieutenant, desiring him to apply to the governor for a pass and horses for myself, Mr Cummins, and John Young, to go by land to St Catharine's and St Francisco, where we need not doubt of a passage to his majesty's distress'd ships at Rio Janeiro: That it was our duty to hasten to their assistance: That he, the lieutenant, ought, the very day after our arrival into this port, without any regard to expence and charges, to have dispatch'd a special messenger by land, and then we might have been assur'd of a vessel before now. The lieutenant answer'd, he had a thought of enquiring at first coming about what I had mention'd, and of going himself, tho' it cost him fifty pounds; but he was inform'd it was impossible to go by land. I ask'd him, If so how came the brigadier from St Catharine's here? As for fatigue or trouble, whoever undertook to go, he must expect that; but there was no hardship to be encounter'd comparable to what we had already undergone. We lay here on expence to the king, without doing any service, and run the hazard of not only losing the opportunity of getting on board our own ships, but perhaps of missing the Flota, and of wintering here, therefore I begg'd he would entreat the governor to let us have horses and guides; which he promis'd to mention to the governor at dinner, and send me his answer in the afternoon without fail. I waited with impatience for this answer; but the lieutenant failing in his promise, was the occasion of my sending him this letter.

"Sir,

"I am sorry you should give me the liberty of telling you, you have not discharg'd your promise, by letting us know the governor's answer to what we requested: Which was, at our expence and charge, to go to the assistance of his majesty's ships at Rio Janeiro; since which time I am to inform you that we are in want of provision, having none of any kind allow'd us yesterday, and but one small fish per man for two days before. The meaning of which, I believe, is owing to you, by the endeavouring, through the persuasions of the persons you confide in, to blacken us, and in so vile a manner, that you seem unacquainted with the ill consequence, which may attend the touching a man's character. We know, and are fully convinced, from what has been done already, that nothing will be allow'd or granted us but by your means: Mr Cummins and myself ask no favour from you, but to use your endeavours to get us dispatches to the ships at Rio Janeiro, where every man must give account of his actions, and justice take place. If I am not mistaken, you told me that what we were supply'd with here was a bounty flowing from the generous spirit of the governor, and the gentlemen of the place. If this be the case, we ought to be very thankful indeed. I am surprized, sir, you don't see the grievances of the inhabitants here, and hear the soldiers murmurings for want of their arrears. If they should revolt at this juncture, we shall stand a very bad chance. I must acquaint you, sir, the vessel we came in is not so much out of repair, but that, if you can get canvas out of the store for sails, we can make 'em, and get ready for sailing in ten days time. And if the vessel expected here with supplies comes in a shorter time, our vessel will be ready fix'd for the use of the governor; and if one vessel should not be large enough to carry us all off, we can go in company. I imagine you know of the stores being robbed, and the disturbance among the soldiers, which must occasion uneasiness enough, without repeating grievances, where relief is not to be had. I beg, sir, you'll get us dispatch'd with all expedition to his majesty's service, that we may not lose the opportunity of joining the two ships and the Flota.

Sir, yours."

The next morning the lieutenant came down on horseback, being the first time of his appearing among us since we have been here, which is above three weeks; we went with him to the commandant, who promised we should not want fresh beef and fish, but as for bread there is none to be got. William Oram, one of the carpenter's crew, died this day in the hospital.

March the 6th, for several days the people very uneasy at the vessel's not arriving, the wind having been fair for above three weeks past, and little or no provisions in store, which makes them doubtful of any to be dispatch'd to their relief. This day we are resolv'd to go by land, if the governor will only allow us a guide; we acquainted the lieutenant with our resolution; he went with me and Mr Jones to the governor, we obtain'd leave to go, with the promise of a guide. Captain Pemberton, being at the governor's, desired to go with us; the governor told him the journey was so difficult and tedious, it would be impossible for him to encounter with it. The captain answer'd, that he had a company on board his majesty's ship the Severn, where his duty call'd him, and was determin'd, with the governor's leave, to share his fate with us by land, which was granted. The governor told us, notwithstanding the present scarcity of provisions in the place, that he had so great a regard for an Englishman, that whilst he had any thing for himself, we should not want, for which we thank'd him heartily. This governor is certainly a gentleman of a noble generous spirit, of exceeding humanity and goodness, and I believe him to have a sincere regard for an Englishman.

March the 9th, this morning Mr Jones went over with me to the north side, to make an agreement for six people to go to St Catharine's; while we were here, the governor received letters from St Catharine's, which gave an account of four vessels on their passage for this port; on the news of this we put by our journey: It was very lucky we had not set out on this journey before we heard the news; for on the nineteenth, the vessels for Rio Janeiro arrived, and brought an account that the Severn and Pearl were sail'd from thence for the island of Barbadoes. Those vessels not only brought the soldiers provisions, but also a pardon.

On the 20th, the brigadier arriv'd, and had all the soldiers drawn up, where their pardon was read to them: He acquainted them with what money was come, which was not above a third part of their arrears, but the remainder was on the passage. The money he had for them should be paid directly, as far as it would go, if they would take it; but they cry'd out with one voice, The whole or none, and a great disturbance there was, some was for revolting to the king of Spain, some began to change their notes, and were for taking part of the money, and the rest insisted upon the whole. To quell this disturbance, the commandant, whom they look'd upon more than the brigadier, or the governor, used his utmost endeavours. They told the commandant they were no longer soldiers than while they were in the king's pay, and let those who are for the king, draw off one way by themselves; you are our commander, we trust in you to answer for us, what you do we will stand by with our lives: On which the commandant deliver'd his command up, shouldering his firelock, and took the place of a common soldier, telling them, since the king was so good as to pardon them, he thought it his duty to accept it. The brigadier was so well pleased with the behaviour of the commandant, that he ran to him, took him in his arms, and embraced him: The rest of the soldiers follow'd the example of their late commandant, delivering their respective commands up to their proper officers. This day put an end to the disturbance and confusion which had been some time among them, and restor'd them to tranquillity, good discipline, and order.

March the 22d, this morning went to the lieutenant for leave to go in the first vessel, which was expected to sail in four days time: He told me he expected to go in her himself, and that we could not go off all in one vessel, there might be room for the officers, but the people must wait another opportunity. I told him that it was a duty incumbent on the officers that were in pay particularly to take care of the people; You, sir, have been sure of half-pay ever since the ship was lost; we are not, but I will tarry myself behind with the people, and be answerable for them, if you'll give me a note under your hand to secure me the value of my pay, from the loss of the ship, otherwise I don't know any business I have but to endeavour to get to England as soon as I can, and will put it out of your power to prevent my going off in the first vessel. I left the lieutenant, and went with Mr Cummins, Mr Jones, Mr Snow, M. King, and Dr Oakley to the governor, to obtain leave for our going, the lieutenant follow'd us, and said, but one half could go at a time. The governor told us it was order'd that the land-officers, myself and the rest that apply'd to go by land, should be the first dispatch'd, and might go on board when we would, but as the vessel did not belong to the king, we must buy provisions, and pay for our passage. I said, Sir, we have not money to answer the expence: He then ask'd me whether I had not several times apply'd to him for leave to go by land at my own charges? I answer'd, We were obliged to dispose of our watches to raise that money, which will barely be sufficient to carry us six off that intended to go by land, therefore what must become of the rest who have not a single penny? And I hope, sir, that you are not unacquainted that the king of Great-Britain allows to all his subjects, distress'd in this manner, five vintins per day to each man for subsistence. On my saying this, the governor call'd the commissary and major: He walk'd and talk'd with them aside; then came back again, and told us the account was so small, that it was not worth charging the king of England with it; therefore we must buy our own provisions, and pay our passage, and as to what we had received from them, we were welcome; upon which we thank'd them and came away. We then consulted with the lieutenant, to know what could be done with the people, and that as the vessel we came in was not fit to proceed any farther, it was to no purpose to leave her there; therefore we desired his consent to sell her, believing the money she would bring would be sufficient to carry us all off. To this proposal the lieutenant consented. We then apply'd to the master of the vessel, to know what he would have for our passage; his demand was forty shillings per man, of which we acquainted the lieutenant, who told us he could not see what we could do, and, on second consideration, would not give his consent to sell the boat, for when sold, he did not think she would fetch the money. Those words of the lieutenant put us all to a stand, especially after he had but now given his consent to sell her, and in so short time to declare the reverse was very odd; tho' indeed it did not much surprise us, because this gentleman was never known to be over stedfast to his word. Seeing no possibility of carrying the people off without selling the boat, I told the lieutenant, if he left them behind, I could not think but so many of his majesty's subjects were sold, and believ'd he had made a present of the vessel to the governor. At this the lieutenant paus'd for a while, and then said, he had not money to carry himself off without selling his coat. I reply'd, There was no occasion for that, when he had a gold watch. The next morning went to the lieutenant again about our going off; he acquainted us, that the brigadier had order'd things in another manner; that myself, and nine more, being the persons desirous of going, should be dispatch'd in the first vessel, and every thing found us; that he, the lieutenant, was to tarry behind with the rest of the people, and to come in the next vessel, an estimate of the charges being made out; and he also told us, he had a severe check for requesting to go first himself, and offering to leave the people behind.

Sunday, March 28th, I embark'd on board the St Catharine's brigantine, with the carpenter, boatswain, the two mates, the surgeon of marines, the cooper, and six of the people, the provisions laid in for us were two casks of salt beef and ten alcadoes of farina.

Wednesday the 31st, we sail'd for Rio Janeiro, with the wind at W., steer'd S.E. and S.E. by E., until over the bar; then E. by N., and E.N.E., with a fine gale, and clear weather; there is not above two fathom and half water on the bar at high-water; when you are in, it is a fine commodious harbour for small vessels; it is a low land, of a sandy soil: Here is abundance of fine cattle, with fresh-water fish, melons exceeding good, plenty of water, and the best milk I ever tasted.

Thursday, April the 8th, little wind at S.W., and fair weather. At ten this morning anchor'd before the town of St Sebastians. The Portugueze pilots, who have been in England, call the land here the Isle of Wight; and indeed it is very like it, tho' not so large, being only eight miles in length. This is a very secure harbour for shipping; a stranger may go in or out without any difficulty. At this place I was ashore, and think it as delightful and pleasant a place as ever I saw in America, abounding with fruit, as oranges, lemons, bonanoes; also with yams, potatoes, fish, and fowl.

Saturday the 10th, sail'd from St Sebastians, little wind at S.W., steer'd out S.E. between the island and the main; at eight in the morning, on the Monday following, we anchor'd before the city of Rio Janeiro.

Tuesday the 13th, this morning we were all order'd before the governor. A Dutch surgeon was sent for, who spoke very good English. After enquiring into our misfortunes, the governor order'd him to be our consul, telling us, that we should have a convenient house, with firing, and eight vintins a man per day subsistence-money: He also desir'd we might make no disturbance among ourselves, which we promis'd to avoid. A nobleman went with the consul to look out for our habitation; they fix'd on a large magnificent house, fit for a person of quality. This being the first day of our coming ashore, they were pleas'd to order a dinner and supper out of doors, and sent us where we were to eat all together. This was the first time of the boatswain's eating with the rest of the officers since we left Cheap island. The consul was so kind as to send us a table, benches, and water-pots, and several useful things, from his own house; we thought ourselves very happily seated.

Wednesday the 14th, this morning the consul went with the officers and people to the treasury for our money. Mr Oakely, surgeon of his majesty's land-forces, was desired by the consul to sign for it. The boatswain, who now look'd upon himself as our captain, was not a little displeas'd at this. When the money was receiv'd, the consul would have given it to the surgeon to pay us, but he excus'd himself, telling the consul the boatswain was a troublesome man, and it might occasion a disturbance, on which the consul was so good as to come and pay it himself. Being all together, he told us the governor had order'd us eight vintins a man per day; but at the same time had made a distinction between the officers and seamen, that the money received was to be paid in the manner following, viz. to the seamen six vintins per man, and the officers ten. The reason of this distinction was, that the seamen could go to work, when the officers could not, but must be oblig'd to live entirely on their allowance. This distinction caused great uneasiness, the boatswain insisting that the people had a right to an equal share with us. The officers, willing to make all things easy, desir'd the consul it might be so. The consul reply'd, The money should be dispos'd of according to the governor's direction, or not at all. The boatswain then objected against the cooper, because he was no officer. The consul said, Master! I believe the cooper to be a very good quiet man, and I dare say will take it as the men do, but sooner than this be an objection, I will pay the money out of my own pocket. The boatswain then began at me, abusing me in a very scandalous and abominable manner, saying, among other things, that the cooper was got among the rest of the pirates, for so he term'd me and the rest of the officers. When the money was paid, we acquainted the consul, that we had, till now, been separated from the boatswain, that he was of so perverse and turbulent a temper, and so abusive in speech, that we could not bear with him. The boatswain then chose to be with the people, and gave us the preference of the fore-room, where we desir'd to be by ourselves. There were two doors to our room, we lock'd both of them, and went to take a walk in the country: At our return, in the evening, we found the doors broke open, and a small sword belonging to me was broke an inch off the point, and the scabbard all in pieces. The boatswain had in his room an Irishman, whom he sent in on purpose to quarrel with us. This Irishman and Richard East, one of our own people, fell upon the cooper and me: East chose to engage with me, he struck me several times, he compelled me to stand in my own defence, and I soon master'd him. During this quarrel the carpenter call'd the guards, at the sight of whom the Irishman made his escape. I desir'd the guards to secure East a prisoner, but the officer told me he could not, unless I would go to prison with him. I told him it was my desire, and accordingly I went. The prison was in the governor's house. I had not been there but a few minutes before the governor sent for me; he enquir'd of the officer concerning the disturbance, and order'd me to my habitation, but detain'd East a prisoner. When I came home I found the boatswain and two renegadoes with him, all about the cooper. On seeing me, he repeated his former abusive words. He made us so uneasy in our lodging, that, to prevent murder, we were obliged to lie out of the house. Next morning Mr Oakley and Mr Cummins went to the consul; he came with them to the house, where we were all sent for; he told us it was very strange that people who had undergone so many hardships and difficulties could not agree lovingly together. We answer'd, we never used to mess together, and sooner than we would be with the boatswain, we would make it our choice to take a house in the country at our own expence. The boatswain, on hearing this, fell again into his usual strain of slander and abusive language, calling us rogues, villains, and pirates. It was the governor's first request that we might have no disturbance among us, yet the boatswain hath not suffer'd us to have a quiet minute since we have been here. The consul went with us two miles out of the city, at a fishing village, where we took a house at our own expence, to pay at the rate of ten shillings per month, there being seven of us in all, viz. myself, the carpenter, surgeon, the two mates, the cooper, and a seaman. Here we thought ourselves safe and secure. The next day, in the afternoon, two of the boatswain's friends, which had lately deserted from his majesty's service, and an Irish clerk with them, came to pay us a visit. They were so impertinent, as not only to enquire into the reasons of the disturbance among ourselves, but they also instructed us in our duty, telling us, they came from our commander the boatswain, with orders to see my journal. I told them the journal shou'd not be a secret to any person who cou'd read; but, at the same time, I wou'd never part with it to be copied out: They then drank a glass of punch with us, and left us. This is a place that a man is oblig'd sometimes to suffer himself to be used ill; if he resents all affronts, he runs a great hazard of losing his life, for here ruffians are to be hir'd at a small expence, and there is no place in the world where people will commit murder at so cheap a rate. Between nine and ten at night three people came to our door, one of which knock'd, telling us, that he was the person that was with me and the cooper in the afternoon. Being apprehensive that they came with no good intent, we refus'd opening the door, telling them, that it was an improper season of the night, and that we did not know they had any business with us, if they had, we told them to come in the morning: But they still insisted upon the door being open'd, saying, it would be better to do so than to be taken away in three hours' time. When they had said this, they went away. We did not know the meaning of their words, but imagin'd they were gone to bring some associates to beset the house; having nothing to defend ourselves with, we got over the back wall of the house, and took to the country for safety: In the morning apply'd to the consul, who remov'd us to a house in the midst of the village; he gave an account to the inhabitants of the design the boatswain had formed against us, either to compel us to deliver up the journal, or to take our lives; and therefore desir'd that the journal and papers might be deposited in the hands of a neighbour there, till the time of our going off. The people of the place offer'd to stand by us with their lives, in opposition to any persons who should attempt to do us an injury.

Sunday the 18th, early this morning we were sent for to the consul. He said to us, Gentlemen, as the lives of three of you are in danger, and I do not know what villainy your boatswain may be capable of acting, in regard to your peace and safety, I'll endeavour to get you three on board a ship bound for Bahia and Lisbon; accordingly he went to the captain of the ship, who consented that we should go with him, on these conditions, that the governor should give us a pass, and that we would work for our passage; this we agreed to. After this we requested the governor for a pass, which he was so good as to grant, and is as follows:

Nas Fortalesas sedeixem passar.

A 30 Abril, 1742.

Podem passar par Portugal em qualquer Nao que selle ofreser semque che ponha Impedimento algum Bahia, 19 Mayo, 1742.

"Dizem Joan Bocli, e Joan Cummins, e Joan Menino, Inglezes de Nasao, e Cazados em Inglaterra, em quetem suas Mulleres e Fillios, que suedo Officais de Calafate, e Condestavel, & Joneiro, de imadas Fragatas Inglezas, dado a Costa de Patagonia, die fesivel a portarem, a Oporto de Rio Grande, donde selhedeo faculdade para passarem aesta Cidade. E como Naferma do Regimendo de son soberano Nao vensem soldo, algum desde otempo, que Nao Pagau detta Fragata, selhes las presis a passarem a Inglaterra, para poderem tratar de sua vida em Compania de suas familias; para oghe pretendem na Naude Lisensia passar a Citade da Bahia, para da hi Opoderem farer para Lisboa, na primera ocasio, que che for posivell, e sim desda Nao podem intentar dito transporte.

Quaime sedigne dar che Lisensia que nas Fortalesas selhe nas ponha Impedimento a sua Passagein, Come e Costume aos Nacionaes decte Reyne.

A. Rove."

The foregoing in English thus.

Rio Janeiro Grand.

From all the Forts let them pass.

April 30, 1742.

That they may pass to Portugal in any vessel that offers itself, without any hindrance whatever, to Bahia, May 19, 1742.

"John Bocli, [Bulkeley] John Cummins, and John Young, of the English nation, and married in England, where they have wives and children, the one being an officer, the other a carpenter, and the third cooper of the ship, being an English frigate, arrived on the coast of Patagonia; and at their arrival in the great river, i.e. Rio Grand, leave was granted them to come to this city; and as in the service of his majesty, they do not advance any money, from the time that they paid off the said ship, they are obliged to pass to England, that they may be enabled there to seek their livelihood for their respective families: Therefore they desire that they may pass in the license ship to the city of Bahia, that they may from thence go to Lisbon, by the first opportunity that shall offer; and that without the said ship they will not be able to perform their intended design.

Leave is hereby granted them to pass by the said ship for Bahia; and we command all the forts to let them pass, and not hinder their passage, as is the custom of the nation of this kingdom.

A. ROVE."

The following is a copy of the solicitor's certificate.

"ISTO he para que todos sabem que os Senhores Abaixo Nomeados y bem mal afortunados, nesta Cidade de Rio Janeiro se comporlarao com toda Dereysao nao dando escandalo Apesoa Alguma e Sao Dignos deque Joda pessoa posa os favoreser emoque for de Ajudo para Sigimento de sua Viagem omais breve possivel para Huropa.

JOHN BULKELEY.
JOHN CUMMINS.
JOHN YOUNG.

Hoje 1 de Mayo de 1742.

A sim que Assiney este Papel Como Procu
rador Sosil da Nasao Britanica.
PEDRO HENRIQUES DELAED."

In English thus.

"These Presents.

"Be it known to all persons, that the under-signed are in a deplorable condition in this city of Rio Janeiro; who have behaved themselves with decency and good decorum, not giving any scandal to any person whatsoever, and are worthy that all people may have compassion, and succour them in forwarding their voyage with all expedition to Europe.

JOHN BULKELEY.
JOHN CUMMINS.
JOHN YOUNG.

The 1st of May, 1742.

I have sign'd this paper as a sollicitor of the British nation.

PEDRO HENRIQ; DELAED."

Tuesday, May the 20th, this evening myself, the carpenter, and cooper, went on board the St Tubes, one of the Brazil ships, carrying twenty-eight guns, Theophilus Orego Ferrara, commander, bound for Bahia and Lisbon. The people left on shore were,

John Jones, Master's mate.
John Snow, ditto.
Vincent Oakley, surgeon.
John King, boatswain.
Samuel Stook, seaman.
John Shoreham, ditto.
John Pitman, ditto.
Job Barns, ditto.
Richard East, ditto.
Richard Powell, ditto.

Wednesday the 21st, early this morning the captain came on board, on seeing us, he ask'd us, how we came on board without his leave? Notwithstanding he gave leave to the consul for our passage, we ought to have waited on him ashore. There was on board the ship a Spanish don, a passenger, who told the captain, no Englishman should go in the same ship with him, therefore desir'd we might be turn'd ashore; but the captain insisted upon doing what he pleas'd on board his own ship, and would not comply with his request. The Spanish don, when we came to converse with him, was very much mov'd with the relation of our misfortunes, and said to us, though our royal masters, the king's of England and Spain, are at war, it was not our fault; that we were now on board a neutral ship; belonging to a king who was a friend to both nations; that he would not look upon us as enemies, but do us all the service he could. He extoll'd the conduct and bravery of Admiral Vernon at Porto Bello; but, above all, applauded him for his humanity and generous treatment of his enemies. He made great encomiums on the magnificence of the British fleet, and the boldness and intrepidity of the sailors, styling the English the soldiers of the sea. He supplied us in our passage not only with provisions from his table, but also with wine and brandy; and during the whole voyage appear'd so different from an enemy, that he took all opportunities of giving us proofs of his generosity and goodness.

Friday, the 7th of May, 1742, this morning anchored before the city of Bahia, went on shore to the vice-roy, shew'd him the pass we had from the governor of Rio Janeiro: He told us the pass was to dispatch us to Lisbon, and that the first ship which sail'd from hence would be the ship we came in; we petition'd him for provisions, acquainting him of our reception at Rio Grand and Rio Janeiro, that we had hitherto been supply'd at the rate of eight vintins each man per day. He refused supplying us with any thing, upon which I told him, we had better been prisoners to the king of Spain, who would allow us bread and water, than in a friend's country to be starv'd. The captain of the ship we came in, hearing the vice-roy would not supply us, was so kind as to go with us to him, acquainting him how we were provided for at Rio Janeiro, and that he would supply us himself, if he would sign an account to satisfy the consul general at Lisbon, so that he might be reimburs'd. The vice-roy answer'd, he had no orders concerning the English; that he had letters from the king of Portugal his master to supply the French, but had no orders about any other nation, and if he gave us any thing it must be out of his own pocket, therefore he would not supply us. The captain then told him, that we were officers and subjects to the king of England, and in distress; that we did not want great matters, and only barely enough to support life, and begg'd that he would allow but four vintins per day, being but half the sum hitherto allow'd us. The captain's entreaties avail'd nothing, the vice-roy continuing as fix'd in his resolution of giving us no relief. I do not believe there ever was a worse representative of royalty upon the face of the earth than this vice-roy; his royal master, the king of Portugal, is very well known to have a grateful affection for the British nation (nor can we believe he is so Frenchify'd as this vice-roy makes him) his deputy differs greatly from him, he has given a proof of his aversion to the English. We think persons in the distress we were represented in to him, could in no part of the world, nay, in an enemy's country, be treated with more barbarity than we were here: We work'd here for our victuals, and then could get but one meal per day, which was farina and caravances. At this place we must have starv'd, if I had not by me some money and a silver watch of my own, which I was obliged to turn into money to support us. I had in money fourteen guineas, which I exchanged with the captain who brought us here for Portugueze money; he at the same time told me, it would be hard upon me to be so much out of pocket, and said, if I would draw a bill on the consul general at Lisbon for the sum, as if supplied from him, upon the payment of that bill, he would return me my fourteen guineas; accordingly a bill was drawn up by an English merchant at Bahia and sign'd by us, being as follows:

"Nos abaixo asignados Joam Bulkeley, Joam Cummins, & Joam Young, Vassalos de sua Magg de Brittanica El Rey Jorge Segundo, declaramos que temos recebido da mam do Snor' Cappam de Mar e Guerra Theodorio Rodrigues de Faria a coanthia de Corenta eloatra Mil e Oito Centos reis em dinheiro decontado comque por varias vezes nos Secorreo para o Nosso Sustento des o dia 17 de Mayo proximo passado athe odia Prezente, por cuja caridade rogamos a Deos conceda mera saud Born succesto e por este pedimos humildeme te ao Snor' Consul Geral da Mesma Nacao que Aprezentado que este Seja nao' duvide em Mandar Sattis fazer as sobredito Snor' Cappam de Mar e Guerra a refferida coanthia visto ser expendida em Obra pia e que o Estado da nossa Mizeria epobreza tre nao' pode pagar e por passar na Verdade o Refferido e nao' sabermos Escrever pedimos a Gabriel Prynn homem de Negocio nesta Cidade e Interprete de Ambas as Lingoas ou Idosmas que este por Nos fizese e Como Testemunha Asignase.

Sao 44 800 re. Bahia, 14 Setembro, 1742.

JOHN BULKELEY.
JOHN CUMMINS.
JOHN YOUNG.

Como Testsmunha que fix a rogo dos Sobreditos,
GABRIEL PRYNN."

The foregoing in English thus.

"We, the undersign'd John Bulkeley, John Cummins, and John Young, subjects of his majesty King George the Second, King of Great Britain, do declare to have received from the honourable captain of sea and land, Theodore Rodriques of Faria, the sum of fourty-four thousand and eight hundred rees, in ready and lawful money, by different times, for our support and succour from the 17th of May instant, to this present date: And, for the said charily, we implore the Almighty to grant him health and prosperity. And on this account, we humbly desire the consul of the same nation, that, by these presents, he may not omit giving full satisfaction to the above- mention'd captain of sea and land, for the said sum, it being employed on a very charitable account, being in a deplorable condition, and not able to repay the same; and we not knowing in what manner to write, to acknowledge the above favours, have desired Mr Gabriel Prynn, a merchant in this city, and interpreter of both languages, that he may act for us; and we leave it to him to do in this affair as it shall seem meet unto him; and as a witness to this matter he hath sign'd his name.

Say 44 100. Bahia, the 14th September, 1742.

JOHN BULKELEY.
JOHN CUMMINS.
JOHN YOUNG.

To the veracity of the above assertion I have sign'd my name,

GABRIEL PRYNN."

Since our being here, we have been inform'd of one of his majesty's ships with three store-ships being arriv'd at Rio Janeiro, supply'd with stores and men for the relief and assistance of the Severn and Pearl, (which were sail'd before in January last for Barbadoes) and that our people were gone on board of them, and bound for the West Indies.

Here is a very good bay for ships to ride in, with the wind from E.S.E., to the northward and westward back to the S.W., and wind to the southward, which blows in and makes a very great sea. At the east side coming in, standeth Point de Gloria, where is a very large fortification with a tower in the midst: From this point the land rises gradually; about a league from hence is the city of Bahia; it is surrounded with fortifications, and equally capable of defending it against any attempts from the sea or land.

Provisions here of all kinds are excessive dear, especially fish; this we impute to the great number of whales that come into this bay, even where the ships lye at anchor; the whale-boats go off and kill sometimes seven or eight whales in a day, the flesh of which is cut up in small pieces, then brought to the market-place, and sold at the rate of a vintin per pound; it looks very much like coarse beef, but inferior to it in taste. The whales here are not at all equal in size to the whales in Greenland, being not larger than the grampus. After living here above four months without any relief from the governor or the inhabitants, who behaved to us as if they were under a combination to starve us, we embark'd on board the St Tubes with our good friend the captain who brought us from Rio Janeiro: We sail'd from Bahia the 11th of September for Lisbon, in company with one of the king of Portugal's ships of war, and two East India ships, but the St Tubes not being able to sail so well as the other ships, lost sight of them the first night. About 70 leagues from the westward of Madeira we bent a new foresail; within two or three days afterwards, we had a very hard gale of wind, scudding under the foresail, and no danger happening to the ship during this gale. When the wind had ceas'd, and we had fair weather, the captain, after the evening mass, made an oration to the people, telling them that their deliverance from danger in the last gale of wind, and the ship though leaky, making no more water than before, was owing to their prayers to Nuestra Senhora Boa Mortua and her intercession: That in gratitude they ought to make an acknowledgement to that saint for standing their friend in time of need: That he himself would shew an example by giving the new fore-sail, which was bent to the yard, to the saint their deliverer: Accordingly one of the seamen went forward and mark'd out these words on the sail, Deal esta Trinchado pour nostra Senhora Boa Mortua, which is as much as to say, I give this foresail to our saint, the deliverer from death. The sail and money collected on this occasion amounted to upwards of twenty moydores.

On Monday, the 23d of November, in the latitude 39: 17 north, and longitude 6:00 W., that day at noon the rock of Lisbon bearing S. by W., distant sixteen leagues; we steer'd E.S.E., to make the rock before night. At four o'clock it blew a very hard gale, and right on the shore: The ship lay-to under a foresail, with her head to the southward; at six it blew a storm; the foresail splitting, oblig'd us to keep her before the wind, which was running her right ashore. The ship was now given over for lost, the people all fell to prayers, and cry'd out to their saints for deliverance, offering all they had in the world for their lives, and yet at the same time neglecting all means to save themselves; they left off pumping the ship, though she was exceeding leaky. This sort of proceeding in time of extremity is a thing unknown to our English seamen; in those emergencies all hands are employ'd for the preservation of the ship and people, and if any of them fall upon their knees, 'tis after the danger is over. The carpenter and myself could by no means relish this behaviour; we begg'd the people for God's sake to go to the pumps, telling them we had a chance to save our lives, while we kept the ship above water, that we ought not to suffer the ship to sink, while we could keep her free. The captain and officers hearing us pressing them so earnestly, left off prayers, and entreated the men to keep the pumps going, accordingly we went to pumping, and preserv'd ourselves and the ship: In half an hour afterwards the wind shifted to the W.N.W., then the ship lay south, which would clear the course along shore; had the wind not shifted, we must in an hour's time have run the ship ashore. This deliverance, as well as the former, was owing to the intercession of Nuestra Senhora Boa Mortua: On this occasion they collected fifty moydores more, and made this pious resolution, that when the ship arrived safe at Lisbon, the foresail, which was split in the last gale of wind, should be carried in procession to the church of this grand saint, and the captain should there make an offering equal in value to the foresail, which was reckon'd worth eighteen moydores.

On Saturday, the 28th of November, we arrived at Lisbon, and on the next morning every person who came in the ship, (excepting the carpenter, myself, and the cooper) officers, passengers, the Spanish don himself, and all the people, men and boys, walk'd bare-footed, with the foresail, in procession, to the church of Nuestra Senhora Boa Mortua; the weather at that time being very cold, and the church a good mile distant from the landing-place. We Englishmen, when we came ashore, went immediately on the Change. I was pretty well known to some gentlemen of the English factory. When I inform'd them that we were three of the unfortunate people that were cast away in the Wager, and that we came here in one of the Brazil ships, and wanted to embrace the first opportunity of going for England, they told me, that the lieutenant had been before us, that he was gone home in the packet-boat, and left us a very indifferent character. I answer'd, I believ'd the lieutenant you'd give but a very bad account of himself, having kept no journal, nor made any remarks since the loss of the ship, nor perhaps before; that we doubted not but to acquit ourselves of any false accusations, having with us a journal, which gave an impartial relation of all our proceedings. The journal was read by several gentlemen of the factory, who treated us, during our stay at Lisbon, with exceeding kindness and benevolence.

On the 20th of December, we embark'd on board his majesty's ship the Stirling Castle for England: Here we had again the happiness of experiencing the difference between a British and a foreign ship, particularly in regard to cleanliness, accommodation, diet, and discipline. We met with nothing material in our passage, and arrived at Spithead on the 1st of January, 1742-3. Here we thought of nothing but going ashore immediately to our families, but were told by the captain, we must not stir out of the ship till he knew the pleasure of the l----ds of the A----y, having already wrote to them concerning us. This was a very great affliction to us, and the more so, because we thought our troubles at an end. The carpenter and myself were in view of our habitations; our families had long given us over for lost, and on the news of our safety, our relatives look'd upon us as sons, husbands, and fathers, restor'd to them in a miraculous manner. Our being detain'd on board gave them great anxiety; we endeavour'd to console 'em as well as we could, being assured, that we had done nothing to offend their l----s; that if things were not carried on with that order and regularity which is strictly observ'd in the navy, necessity drove us out of the common road. Our case was singular; since the loss of the ship, our chiefest concern was for the preservation of our lives and liberties, to accomplish which, we acted according to the dictates of nature, and the best of our understanding. In a fortnight's time, their l----ps order'd us at liberty, and we instantly went ashore to our respective habitations, having been absent from thence about two years and six months.

After we had staid a few days with our families, we came to London, to pay our duties to the l----ds of the A----y. We sent in our journal for, their l----ps' inspection: They had before received a narrative from the l----t, which narrative he confesses to be a relation of such things as occur'd to his memory; therefore of consequence could not be so satisfactory as a journal regularly kept. This journal lay for some time in the a----y o----e, when we were order'd to make an abstract, by way of narrative, that it might not be too tedious for their l----ps' perusal. After the narrative was examined into, their l----ps, upon our petition, were pleased to fix a day for examining all the officers lately belonging to the Wager. The gentlemen appointed to make enquiry into the whole affair were three commanders of ships, persons of distinguish'd merit and honour. However, it was afterwards thought proper not to admit us to any examination, till the arrival of the commodore, or else Captain Cheap. And it was also resolv'd, that not a person of us should receive any wages, or be employed in his majesty's service, till every thing relating to the Wager was more plain and conspicuous. There was no favour shewn in this case to one more than another, so that every body seem'd easy with their l----ps' resolution. All that we have to wish for now is the safe arrival of the commodore and Captain Cheap: We are in expectation of soon seeing the former, but of the captain we have as yet no account. However, we hope, when the commodore shall arrive, that the character he will give of us will be of service to us: He was very well acquainted with the behaviour of every officer in his squadron, and will certainly give an account of them accordingly.