A BIT OF BLOOD.

The term itself naturally implies a something upon a small scale, which is the fact, and although there is nothing of that imposing dignity of style in the above Hat, which characterizes the Regent, the Petersham, &c. there is a lively, animated, and vigorous fire in all its features, that will not allow of any falling off in the general comparison. To give a complete catalogue of the many VIRTUES belonging to a bit of blood, would exceed the allotted limits; but it cannot be amiss to detail a few of the more prominent, that all, whose necessities may bear to the point, should be benefitted by the wearing: First then, it is admirably calculated for those who are about to ask favors, such being more readily granted when they seem the less wanted, and no one could suppose that the saucy animation which would be so strongly visible under this Hat could make the application from NECESSITY. Secondly, it will be of singular advantage to elderly gentlemen in pursuit of young wives, who nine times in ten decide on the choice of a man from the cock-of his Hat. Thirdly, (not that there is much need of it for such a purpose now-a-days) its advantages for those that are tormented with dunns are incalculable, for, by being placed pretty firm on the head, inclining rather to one side, at the same time assuming a sharp erect position of the body, a stern direction of the eye, and arms a-kimbo, the devil himself, in the shape of a creditor, would hardly hazard the REPETITION OF A VISIT.

N. B. No service to gentlemen of the learned profession.

THE
PROCESS
OF
HAT-MAKING
EXPLAINED,
WITH PREFATORY REMARKS, &c. &c.

Turks are said to assign as a reason for not wearing Hats, that they are put together by witchcraft. There is certainly a great deal of ingenuity in the practice, and some effects produced whose causes are as yet unexplained: but, with all due deference to these turban gentlemen, it is presumed that they have objections beyond what is above stated, some of which are as follows:-First, their country is destitute of the most essential material-FUR. Second, the climate being extremely sultry, stoves, irons, and scalding water are not likely to become favourites. Thirdly, being compelled by their religion to keep their heads close shaved, a Hat, above all human inventions, would be the most ridiculous covering they could adopt.

There are many opinions as to the time Hats were first invented, and, very probably, all equally erroneous. Some carry the date as far back as the foundation of Christianity, attributing the merit to St. Luke, of whom it is said, that he, having tender feet, put a layer of hair or fur between them and his sandals, in which situation friction and moisture caused such an interweaving of particles, that the whole became strongly united, or (technically called) FELTED. Whether the story, as applied to Luke, be true or false, is immaterial; but that such did happen with some one, is very likely; nor is it at all unlikely, but that an occurrence of this kind did really give the first idea of Hat-making. Having remarked thus much, I shall next proceed to state, what is not the less true than surprising, which is, that of the various branches of manufacture which this country is so highly distinguished for, none are less understood than Hat-making; nay, there is not one person in fifty who, if he were asked the question, could tell whether a Hat was or was not a woven substance; nor is there one in 500 but what suppose that the skin of a hare or rabbit is worked with the fur attached to it, as in the natural state; and, to form a correct judgment of the external material, when manufactured, whether it be hair, wool, or beaver, although many pretend, none are really competent but those experienced in the trade.

To show the absurd notions some entertain on this matter, I state as a fact, that I do not know a manufacturer or seller in the trade but what has been applied to, by some one or other, to have a Beaver Hat made from a hare's skin. Nay, I remember once offending a very good customer, and a man not wanting for sense either, by an involuntary burst of laughter, on his presenting the skin of a French lap-dog for the very same purpose.

It is no uncommon thing for persons who are on pretty good terms with their capabilities to give opinions as to the merits or demerits of a Hat; which opinions are as opposite to the true state of the case as the sun's rays to a state of darkness. I shall give an instance, although a trifling one, of a very common error among persons who suppose themselves to have a knowledge of the subject, which is this, if the picker has not a very good eye, some of the larger hairs will be left in the Hat, and consequently the most visible; these are directly termed "grey hairs," when the truth is, that they are the blackest in the whole composition; but being thicker than the general mass, they receive a greater portion of light, which is mistaken for a grey colour: an easy method of proving the fact is to pull one of these grey hairs from the Hat, and place it on a piece of white paper, the contrast will decide the question.

Again, whatever produces a glutinization of the NAP, is said to be the effect of the stiffening; this is not true in every case, for it is frequently owing to improper management in placing the Hat, when wet, before a large fire, which should never be done; the better way is, if very wet, to hang it up without brushing or wiping, and when dry it is easily put to rights, by gently passing over a clothes brush: if only slightly wet, wipe it with a handkerchief, and, when dry, it will brush clean. But the great fault with most persons is to put on their Hats, day after day, in the same dirty state as when taken off at night; from which it is natural to infer, that there must be a vast accumulation of dirt; it is this dirt, when exposed to the rain, that forms a sort of cement, or paste, having all the appearance of what is commonly called "gum."

Another proof of erroneous judgment-Profuse perspiration of the head is what many are subject to; by reason of which, from the frequency of wearing, and the porosity of the Hat, there is a continual absorption of moisture going on until it becomes completely saturated, particularly in front, the consequence is, that the nap lies buried in a greasy matter, which matter is also, but very inappropriately termed gum or stiffening, when in point of fact it is neither, for the very same effect would, under the like circumstances, be produced, and in much less time, if the Hat were not stiffened at all. The best remedy for this is a piece of thin flannel under the leather, and that frequently changed.

There is nothing so detrimental to a Hat as a severe exposure to rain on the first, second, or even third time of wearing; for this reason, the materials wherewith it is composed are in a manner quite green, and require seasoning; to effect which it should be frequently put on in dry weather. I have always found that a Hat, constantly worn for five or six weeks without being wet, underwent every sort of hardship afterwards with little or no injury, retaining at the same time its beauty-form-and wearing three times longer than it otherwise would have done. It may be asked, why not, to prevent accidents, render the Hat water-proof? that is, impervious to the action of either atmosphere or rain. The thing is easy enough, I admit; but where there is a choice of only two evils, it is always best to select the least. We all know (or should know) that if a man were to enclose himself, arms, legs, and body, in what is called an oil-skin dress, and that drawn close round the neck, the whole tightly fitted to every part of his person as a Hat is to the head, the most unpleasant consequences would ensue; the cause why is obviously this, the exhalations of the body, particularly in a state of exertion, would when so enclosed, be either prevented from flying off, as nature requires, or otherwise checked altogether; precisely so with the head if the porosity of the Hat was destroyed, which it must be to resist effectually the action of water. This deduction must be so clear and self-evident that further reasoning is unnecessary. Another great objection against water-proof Hats is, that the ingredients made use of for such purposes, when exposed to the sun's heat, are so acted upon as to cause a decomposition of the colour, and nine times in ten, the Hat, before it is half worn out, becomes any thing but what it was meant to be.

It is astonishing to hear the number of qualifications a Hat is said to have, and each as opposite to the other as it is possible for any two things to be; some, for instance, maintain that it cannot be good unless it is light, others again will decidedly condemn it for being so, insisting that the chief recommendation is its being firm and stout. All that is requisite to be observed on this, is that weight has no more to do with the quality of a Hat, than the situation of prime minister has to do with the cramming of turkies. A very inferior Hat may be made equally light with the most superior, and in both cases the cost of manufacture will be less than if they were made stout.

The length of the beaver too is another point on which the difference of opinion is often experienced; many are for very short naps, declaring all others to be outrageously vulgar; but the majority of wearers seem best pleased with long naps, which always take and retain the best black, while, on the contrary those that are very short never do. A medium between the two is the most preferable.

Having stated thus much, I shall next proceed to explain in what way a fine Hat is made, describing as accurately as possible the various processes it undergoes, as also the materials with which it is composed, the proportions of each as well as the quantity of work a man is capable of doing, whether maker or finisher, in a week, the amount of wages, together with some of the curious regulations, by-laws, &c. &c. &c.

In the first place, as I shall have occasion to mention a few of the implements by name, a short description of them may not be amiss.

There is the BOW, which in form is not unlike what is used for playing on a double bass, but in length and thickness is equal to a constable's staff; there is a bridge at each end, from one to the other of which is tightly strung a stout line of catgut.

The HURDLE is situate in what is called the bow garret, and is a sort of table, on which the fur is bowed, or mixed, having the farther end and sides enclosed to prevent the material from being blown away.

The BATTERY is somewhat like the hopper of a mill, in this is contained the hot liquor, and is mostly constructed for eight men, round which they stand when making; the lower part is lead, the upper or working part mahogany. All batteries are formed into divisions called PLANKS, one of which is allotted to each man. There are many other little things used by makers, but these three are all that deserve particular notice.

The first thing a maker looks for in the morning is the FUR, or raw material, which is furnished to him by weight; the quantity being more or less, according to the substance of the Hat required, and is in two parcels, one of which contains the BEAVER, or napping; the other the BODY (a proportionate scale of both will be seen hereafter). Thus provided he takes it to the BOW GARRET; the materials for the body are first placed on the hurdle, and the bow being hung at the centre for support, is held in the left hand horizontally, so that the catgut may come in contact with the fur; in the right hand is placed a small piece of stick, with a nut at the end, and in this position the work begins after the following manner. The catgut of the bow (being first placed in the midst of the fur) is pulled or struck with the knotted stick, which produces, from a quick repetition of the stroke, a continued vibration, this vibration it is that causes a separation or flitting of the fur, at the same time mixing and cleansing it. This operation is continued until such ends are fully attained. It is next divided into halves, one of which is laid aside, and the other again bowed over. In this second operation the workman contrives, partly by bowing, and partly by a slight wicker frame, to bring the material into an oblong form, and equal in size to a large sheet of cartridge paper; this is called a BAT, and when done it is gently pressed down by the wicker, after which a damp linen cloth is laid all over, and on this again is placed a thick piece of dry HORSE HIDE; the workman now begins to press hard on the hide for about five minutes; in the doing this the fur adheres close to the damp cloth, into which it is doubled up, and once more undergoes the pressure of the hand. Under this operation (which is called BASONING) the bat becomes consolidated, and may be thrown, when taken out of the cloth, from one end of the garret to the other without injury. The second half is next bowed, formed into a bat, and basoned as the first. This half remains on the hurdle, and a piece of paper, somewhat conical, is placed on it, over which, and agreeable to the shape, the sides of the bat are doubled. Here then is formed one half of the body, this is laid aside, and the first bat is then put flat on the hurdle on which the one previously doubled is placed with its open part downwards; the lower bat being transversely doubled over the top hat, forms a sort of conical, or harlequin's cap; in this state it is once more put into the damp cloth, where it receives another hardening for the purpose of uniting or knitting both bats together; after this it is folded into the compass of two hands, ready for the plank. The next thing is the beaver, or covering, which is bowed in form to correspond with the body, but has nothing to do with it in this stage.

Matters being completed thus far, this is called the first process of Hat-making. The second commences as follows:-The workman having gone from the bow garret to the making shop, takes his stand at the battery, under which is a FIRE, for the purpose of heating the liquor;[[1]] into this hot liquor the body is quickly immersed, where it remains till soaked through; it is afterwards laid on the plank to drain and cool; this done, it is unfolded, gently rolled, turned at short intervals in every direction, to prevent the sides uniting together; and as the liquor becomes cold and rolled out, it is continually supplied with hot and fresh, by the sprinkling of a brush, which is dipped in the kettle for that purpose; under this operation, assisted by the astringency of the vitriol, the body shrinks, and begins to assume a tough substance. When it has shrunk to a certain size (say three-fifths, if to be double covered), it is laid flat on the plank, and the first coat of beaver, as it comes from the bow, is laid quite over it; the brush is now dipped into the hot liquor, the contents of which is sprinkled all over the beaver, directly afterwards it is gently patted down with the hot brush; here the body is put into a hair-cloth, rolled in hot liquor, turned inside out, rolled again until the beaver, is completely worked into the body; when this is effected, it is in a fit state to receive the second covering, which is put on as the first, the working, turning, patting, and rolling still continuing until it is reduced to a fit dimension, the beaver quite clean, and all together assuming a closely felted, fine, solid piece of workmanship; after which it is immediately blocked in this same liquor, to the size wanted, and put into a stove to dry, from whence it is taken, and with a small fine card the beaver is gently raised; without this, one half would lie buried, and the beauty lost.-Here then is the complete PROCESS OF HAT-MAKING.

[1]. The liquor, which is always kept up to scalding heat, is nothing more than clean soft water, with a wine glass of vitriol, and a small quantity of beer dregs thrown in. The first is to shrink the body of the Hat in working; the other to destroy the pernicious effect of the vitriol.

It is next sent to the DYER from whom it passes to the FINISHER, who, after stiffening, blocking, and half finishing, sends it to be picked, which is performed by a woman, whose place it is to pull out the kemps or thick hairs, without injuring the beaver,[[2]] although that is not always accomplished. From the picker it returns to the finisher who, by the IRON and velvet cushion, gives it those highly brilliant and admired beauties that an English Hat is so pre-eminently distinguished for. The shaper next takes it in hand, who is guided in his operations by the fancy of the wearer, if bespoke, which is sometimes a little whimsical. After shaping, it goes to the trimmer, from whom it is returned to the TIPPER OFF; he gets it ready for wearing; it is then sent to its destination, when the master, if he is fortunate, puts the amount into his pocket.[[3]]

[2]. It has frequently been asked, why not make a Hat with beaver only, the answer is, there is not sufficient stamina or strength in it to become a sound felted substance. It would be worse than building a brick house without mortar or some sort of cement, to bind the whole together.

[3]. Some have payment before-hand, which brings out the following old, but very foolish saying, "there are but two bad paymasters, he who pays beforehand, and he who never pays." How the latter can be a paymaster requires some little ingenuity to determine.

THE
LAWS AND CUSTOMS
OF
JOURNEYMEN HATTERS.

To enter fully into the various regulations and forms that the "trade" have, from time to time, instituted and acted upon, would of itself fill a volume; all that can be done then in this small work will be to give the best possible outline of such matters as are most likely to interest those who may wish for information on the subject. The most important laws of this trade are these:-

First-No man shall work as a maker or finisher, unless he has served an apprenticeship of seven years to what is called a "fair master."

Second-To be a fair master, and entitled, according to the rules of the trade, to take an apprentice, he must have manufactured his own Hats, seven years prior to the taking, or otherwise have served a fair seven years' apprenticeship himself to the trade.

Third-Whether there be one, two, or more in a manufacturing firm, that firm are not to have more than two apprentices at one time.

Fourth-There are a number of masters who do not manufacture their own "stuff," but are employed by "Great Houses," who, although they have a right, by law, to take apprentices, yet those apprentices, by reason of their masters not working their own materials, are never admitted to stand by the side of fair men, on which account they must ever continue foul, and debarred of the usual privileges, or submit to a second apprenticeship. This is a case that frequently occurs; indeed it is no uncommon thing to see a man with a wife and half a dozen children, himself near thirty years old, serving a second apprenticeship for a fair time; the hardship of this must be admitted, inasmuch as it is punishing a man for a fault he never committed.

Fifth-A foul man is one that has not served his apprenticeship agreeably to the rule of the trade, or has been guilty of some act detrimental to the supposed interests of the journeymen in general. These are called "KNOBSTICKS."

Sixth-A fair man has the privilege of what is called "turns upon tramp," that is, if he cannot obtain work in the town where he resides, or has an inclination to travel, he may journey or tramp to the next; should any of the fraternity be there, and he wishes to get "shopped" he is "asked for" by one in that factory, (no man being allowed to ask for himself), if unsuccessful, there are two night's lodging for him, two pots of strong beer, bread and cheese, and a shilling or two to forward him to the next town. The money turn in London is five shillings, but no man is entitled to a second turn in one place, until after the expiration of six months from his receiving the first.

Seventh-If a journeyman has, by his own act, become foul, nothing can absolve him but submitting to a fine, and this is measured according to the offence, which, in some heinous cases, such as "creeping" into favour with the master, or going to work when all the rest have struck for wages, is as high as ten guineas.

There are three distinct courts for the examination and punishment of offenders. The first, or High Court of Congress, is a sort of general assembly, composed of either Makers or Finishers, just as their separate interests may be concerned; but on all joint questions these parties form a junction. In this court matters of importance only are discussed; as, for instance, the advance of prices, the abrogation of old laws, and the making of new ones, under the operation of which, it sometimes happens that both men and masters, as well as the law of the land, are alike the victims. The fines levied in this court are appropriated to special and "STRIKING" purposes, often tending to produce a "COMBINATION" of interesting effects. The masters too are not wholly exempt from these pretty little combinations, which, however, do not always realize or carry their intended point; this is owing (it is thought) to the vast affection journeymen bear towards their employers; indeed so much so, that they cannot bear the latter should "LOWER" themselves.

There is a court below this, which is formed by taking one or two men from the seven nearest shops. Their sitting, if not public, is sure to be in a public-house, president, Sir John Barleycorn. The matters chiefly brought here are those that relate to the misconduct of journeymen towards each other in the same factory, and which cannot be settled where they originated. This is called "DOZENING," and their power of FINE extends to two guineas, which is drank in good old stout by the whole seven shops; but as all dry subjects are prohibited in this tribune, the extent of fine greatly depends on the state of the weather; so that if it be a sultry summer's day, the punishment of an offender is in proportion to the sun's heat.

The third and lowest court is an assembly of shop-mates only, this meeting is called a "GARRET MATCH," and may be demanded for the punishment of an aggressor, by any aggrieved man in a factory. Power of fine from two to ten shillings.

I have before stated that there are in this trade foul men; in point of number they constitute about one-sixth part of the whole; but their earnings, or price of labour is the same as the fair trade.

A journeyman finisher in full work will earn, on an average, from three to four pounds a-week; while, on the contrary, a maker cannot get more than fifty shillings. This is a subject of much jealousy and discontent; nor is it likely to be otherwise, unless the latter can raise himself to an equality with the former; against this there are many obstacles, one of which is, the increasing foul trade, who would continue working, even though the fair men had "struck." Another is, that they could never obtain the co-operation of the finishers, who, being amply paid themselves, think it best to leave well alone.

These are the principal regulations which govern journeymen hatters, whether they have a good or a bad tendency is questionable; there are many in the trade who decidedly condemn them, giving as their reasons, that they encourage idleness, tippling, and endless squabbles. Idleness-inasmuch as when men are summoned to discuss the most trifling matters, even though the meeting be at five o'clock in the morning, they seldom feel disposed to return to their work that day. Tippling-for the reason that, as fines are mostly spent in drink, the conviction of a supposed offender is generally thirsted after; but as the quantum levied seldom suffices, all further supplies for the remainder of the day are met by individual subscription. In these cases there is no show of niggardliness, as every succeeding gallon of the "sparkling entire," is but an internal messenger, bearing the glad tidings of another to come. Squabbles, because it is natural, when the desire for a thing is once created, and the gratification of that desire (where nothing of criminality attaches) can be indulged, by having recourse to a little contrivance, that the opportunity of so doing should be more frequently made, than suffered to approach accidentally; which will account for the trifling magnitudes that are allowed to agitate shops and factories in general. The arguments in favour of these laws are, that without them, apprentices would be careless in serving out their time, the trade over-run with bad workmen, hats greatly deteriorated in the manufacture, the excellence of which is their chief recommendation in a foreign market, and the surest guarantee of the master's profits at home.

Having given the contending opinions, in reference to the laws of this trade, I shall say a word or two concerning the shape, and manner of placing a hat on the head.

ON THE
SHAPE AND STYLE
OF
WEARING A HAT.

There is no part of a man's dress that makes or mars his appearance so much as his hat; not that it is its striking beauty when new, or a want of it when old, that is most materially concerned in producing either of the above effects; the grand point is the form, and the position which it is made to assume on the head; yet how few there are who give the least attention to either, except indeed military men, and they in general are uncommonly tasty, affording the best example of the precise style in which a hat should be worn. It is no less singular than true, that the same hat, by being placed on the head in different positions, will give, in appearance, as many distinct characters to the same person as the number of those positions amount to. The most striking are as follows:-sullenness-indolence-gravity, and good humoured impudence. To give the first, draw the brim of the hat so far over the eyes that they shall be quite concealed. The second is produced by the hat being thrown quite back. The third by a prim horizontal set, covering equally all parts of the head; and the fourth will not be easily mistaken wherever an extravagant cock on either side is brought full into view. These are undoubtedly all extreme habits, and seldom pushed to the extent here described; yet a slight inclination to either position may, under circumstances, have a very good effect.

There is another bad custom that ought to be noticed, which I shall do by first observing, that a hat was intended solely to keep the head dry-ON which it should be worn; but many seem to differ from this opinion, using it as a sort of NIGHT-CAP wherein is thrust head, ears, and all. This is a most slovenly practice, as well as a dangerous one, inasmuch as it tends to keep the head in a continual and forced state of perspiration, rendering a liability to "take cold," every time the hat is removed. Yet even this habit is not so bad as sticking the hat on the back of the head, which, of all others, is the most general, and carries with it the greatest impropriety, because such a position not only destroys the shape, but by lodging on the coat collar, the hind part, from friction, becomes greasy, and the binding is always in a state of raggedness; added to these disadvantages, a most ridiculous effect is produced by the practice, that is, the head in appearance is converted into a sort of peg, AGAINST which the hat seems to hang, instead of being placed upon. A man who indulges in so bad a custom, should at least preserve a consistency in his dress by walking "slip shoed," breeches knees open, and without braces, stockings down, waistcoat unbuttoned, cravat half tied, one arm only in his coat sleeve, and at least a six months' uncombed crop of hair about his pericranium; here he would be of a piece; and grotesque as such a figure must appear, by a general adoption of these "captivating negligencies," there is no greater inconsistency in the whole catalogue than that of wearing a hat on the back part of the head.

As to the form of a hat, and what is best for this face or that person, there is more in it than what is generally supposed, and a great deal might be said on the subject; but to talk of a standard fashion is absurd in the extreme, in proof of which it need only be observed, that if very large hats were adopted, a thin man of five feet high, would, by the wearing, become as complete a caricature, as a twenty stone man of six feet would by wearing a very small one. The best fashion a man can follow in a hat is that which best becomes him, and various as heads, faces, and persons may be, all things are now accomplished (so far as a hat is concerned) that can either fit the one or ornament the other,

By the Head's sincere friend,

and well-wisher,

R. L.

Furs used in a Hat of fine quality, according to the present improved system of making, their proportions, value, cost of manufacture, &c. &c.

FOR THE BODY.

s. d. per oz. s. d.
4 oz. of seasoned coney wool, 1 0 .. 4 0
½ oz. red wool 2 4 .. 1 2
¼ oz. of silk 0 9 .. 0 4½

FOR THE COVERING.

s. d. per oz. s. d.
1 oz. of prime seasoned beaver 8 6[[4]] .. 8 6
Journeyman's wages for making[[5]] 3 6
Dyeing 0 8
Stiffening, finishing, and picking 1 8
Cost of lining, finding, band, and box 2 6
Sewing in of ditto 0 6
-----
£1 2 10½

[4]. No hat can be good, or well covered, with less than one ounce of prime beaver; and, small as the quantity is, there was a time when journeymen makers (catching the custom of their betters, and by way of tythe) thought it no sin to appropriate a part of this material to their own use; but, for the credit of the trade be it said, the practice is long since abolished, and a man attempting it at the present day would be scouted from the factory where he worked, by every honest journeyman therein.

[5]. The average week's work of a maker is about ten hats; that of a finisher, from five to six dozen.

Such is the cost of materials and labour at the present period; it is true that the above scale is drawn from "credit prices;" but let every part of a manufacturing concern be carried on for money only, which is rarely the case, still the deduction from the whole cannot be more than 7½ per cent. All substitutes for the above materials are decidedly condemned; nor can their quantities, as here stated, be lessened, without injury to the remainder. Here then is sufficient evidence that a fine hat must, under the most favourable circumstances, stand the manufacturer in upwards of twenty-one shillings, yet many assume a capability of retailing such an article at less even than the charge of manufacture.

A General List of Lloyd's Fashionable Hats, invented, manufactured, and sold by him, at his Warehouse, 92, Newgate-Street, London.

The John Bull The Bang-up
The Wellington The Jolliffe
The Tandem Clericus
The Tally-Ho The Bon-Ton
The Shallow The Baronet
The Coburg The Four-in-Hand
The Marquis A Bit of Blood
The Eccentric The Baron
The Regent A Noble Lord
The Kent The New Dash
The Cumberland A Paris Beau
The Esquire The Brutus
The Vis-a-Vis The Exquisite
The Petersham The Irresistible
The Tilbury The Pic Nic
The Count The Viscount
The Medium And the Dandy.

CONCLUSION.

If the foregoing treatise to be judged by the letter and not the spirit-have mercy reader.

Rules for measuring a hat.-Take the circumference on the outside, where the band is fixed, in inches. The breadth of brim and depth of crown as wanted.

Entered at Stationer's Hall.