Transcriber’s Note

The punctuation and spelling from the original text have been faithfully preserved. Only obvious typographical errors have been corrected.

The photograph "The Rainbow Natural Bridge, Utah", facing page 8, is missing from the source document even though presented in the List of Illustrations.



THE BOOK OF
THE NATIONAL PARKS


From the painting by Chris Jorgenson


THE BOOK OF
THE NATIONAL PARKS

BY

ROBERT STERLING YARD

CHIEF, EDUCATIONAL DIVISION, NATIONAL PARK SERVICE, DEPARTMENT
OF THE INTERIOR
AUTHOR OF "THE NATIONAL PARKS PORTFOLIO"
"THE TOP OF THE CONTINENT," ETC.

WITH MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS

NEW YORK
CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS
1919


PREFACE

In offering the American public a carefully studied outline of its national park system, I have two principal objects. The one is to describe and differentiate the national parks in a manner which will enable the reader to appreciate their importance, scope, meaning, beauty, manifold uses and enormous value to individual and nation. The other is to use these parks, in which Nature is writing in large plain lines the story of America's making, as examples illustrating the several kinds of scenery, and what each kind means in terms of world building; in other words, to translate the practical findings of science into unscientific phrase for the reader's increased profit and pleasure, not only in his national parks but in all other scenic places great and small.

At the outset I have been confronted with a difficulty because of this double objective. The rôle of the interpreter is not always welcome. If I write what is vaguely known as a "popular" book, wise men have warned me that any scientific intrusion, however lightly and dramatically rendered, will displease its natural audience. If I write the simplest of scientific books, I am warned that a large body of warm-blooded, wholesome, enthusiastic Americans, the very ones above all others whose keen enjoyment I want to double by doubling their sources of pleasure, will have none of it. The suggestion that I make my text "popular" and carry my "science" in an appendix I promptly rejected, for if I cannot give the scientific aspects of nature their readable values in the text, I cannot make them worth an appendix.

Now I fail to share with my advisers their poor opinion of the taste, enterprise, and intelligence of the wide-awake American, but, for the sake of my message, I yield in some part to their warnings. Therefore I have so presented my material that the miscalled, and, I verily believe, badly slandered "average reader," may have his "popular" book by omitting the note on the Appreciation of Scenery, and the several notes explanatory of scenery which are interpolated between groups of chapters. If it is true, as I have been told, that the "average reader" would omit these anyway, because it is his habit to omit prefaces and notes of every kind, then nothing has been lost.

The keen inquiring reader, however, the reader who wants to know values and to get, in the eloquent phrase of the day, all that's coming to him, will have the whole story by beginning the book with the note on the Appreciation of Scenery, and reading it consecutively, interpolated notes and all. As this will involve less than a score of additional pages, I hope to get the message of the national parks in terms of their fullest enjoyment before much the greater part of the book's readers.

The pleasure of writing this book has many times repaid its cost in labor, and any helpfulness it may have in advancing the popularity of our national parks, in building up the system's worth as a national economic asset, and in increasing the people's pleasure in all scenery by helping them to appreciate their greatest scenery, will come to me as pure profit. It is my earnest hope that this profit may be large.

A similar spirit has actuated the very many who have helped me acquire the knowledge and experience to produce it; the officials of the National Park Service, the superintendents and several rangers in the national parks, certain zoologists of the United States Biological Survey, the Director and many geologists of the United States Geological Survey, scientific experts of the Smithsonian Institution, and professors in several distinguished universities. Many men have been patient and untiring in assistance and helpful criticism, and to these I render warm thanks for myself and for readers who may benefit by their work.


CONTENTS

PAGE
Preface[vii]
THE BOOK OF THE NATIONAL PARKS
On the Appreciation of Scenery[3]
I.The National Parks of the United States[17]
THE GRANITE NATIONAL PARKS
Granite's Part in Scenery[33]
II.Yosemite, the Incomparable[36]
III.The Proposed Roosevelt National Park[69]
IV.The Heart of the Rockies[93]
V.McKinley, Giant of Giants[118]
VI.Lafayette and the East[132]
THE VOLCANIC NATIONAL PARKS
On the Volcano in Scenery[145]
VII.Lassen Peak and Mount Katmai[148]
VIII.Mount Rainier, Icy Octopus[159]
IX.Crater Lake's Bowl of Indigo[184]
X.Yellowstone, a Volcanic Interlude[202]
XI.Three Monsters of Hawaii[229]
THE SEDIMENTARY NATIONAL PARKS
XII.On Sedimentary Rock in Scenery[247]
XIII.Glaciered Peaks and Painted Shales[251]
XIV.Rock Records of a Vanished Race[284]
XV.The Healing Waters[305]
THE GRAND CANYON AND OUR NATIONAL MONUMENTS
On the Scenery of the Southwest[321]
XVI.A Pageant of Creation[328]
XVII.The Rainbow of the Desert[352]
XVIII.Historic Monuments of the Southwest[367]
XIX.Desert Spectacles[385]
XX.The Muir Woods and Other National Monuments[404]

ILLUSTRATIONS

[Zoroaster from the depths of the Grand Canyon]Frontispiece
Facing Page
The Rainbow Natural Bridge, Utah8
[Middle fork of the Belly River, Glacier National Park]12
[General Grant Tree]18
[The Giant Geyser—greatest in the world]22
[The Yosemite Falls—highest in the world]26
[El Capitan, survivor of the glaciers]44
[Half Dome, Yosemite's hooded monk]46
[The climax of Yosemite National Park]56
[The greatest waterwheel of the Tuolumne]56
[Tehipite Dome, guardian rock of the Tehipite Valley]82
[East Vidette from a forest of foxtail pines]84
[Bull Frog Lake, proposed Roosevelt National Park]90
[Under a giant sequoia]90
[Estes Park Plateau, looking east]96
[Front range of the Rockies from Bierstadt Lake]96
[Summit of Longs Peak, Rocky Mountain National Park]110
[The Andrews Glacier hangs from the Continental Divide]114
[A Rocky Mountain cirque carved from solid granite]114
[Mount McKinley, looming above the great Alaskan Range]128
[Archdeacon Stuck's party half-way up the mountain]128
[The summit of Mount McKinley]128
[In Lafayette National Park]134
[Sea caves in the granite]134
[Frenchman's Bay from the east cliff of Champlain Mountain]140
[Lassen Peak seen from the southwest]152
[Lassen Peak close up]152
[Southeast slope of Mount Rainier]162
[Mount St. Helens seen from Mount Rainier Park]166
[Mount Adams seen from Mount Rainier Park]166
[Sluiskin Ridge and Columbia Crest]172
[Mount Rainier seen from Tacoma]172
[Mount Rainier and Paradise Inn in summer]174
[Winter pleasures at Paradise Inn, Mount Rainier]174
[Dutton Cliff and the Phantom Ship, Crater Lake]190
[Sunset from Garfield Peak, Crater Lake National Park]190
[Applegate Cliff, Crater Lake]194
[Phantom Ship from Garfield Peak]194
[The Excelsior Geyser which blew out in 1888; Yellowstone]216
[One of the terraces at Mammoth Hot Springs, Yellowstone]216
[Yellowstone Valley from the upper fall to the lower fall]220
[The lower fall and the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone]220
[The Teton Mountain from Jackson Hole, south of Yellowstone]228
[The lava landscape of the Yellowstone and Gibbon Falls]228
[The Kilauea Pit of Fire, Hawaii National Park]238
[Within the crater of Kilauea]238
[The Great Gable of Gould Mountain]272
[The Cirque at the head of Cut Bank Creek]272
[Ptarmigan Lake and Mount Wilbur, Glacier National Park]276
[Scooped both sides by giant glaciers]276
[Showing the Agassiz Glacier]282
[Beautiful Bowman Lake, Glacier National Park]282
[Prehistoric pottery from Mesa Verde]298
[Sun Temple, Mesa Verde National Park]302
[Spruce Tree House from across the canyon]302
[On Hot Springs Mountain, Hot Springs of Arkansas]308
[Bath House Row, Hot Springs of Arkansas]308
[Sunset from Grand View, Grand Canyon National Park]340
[Camping party on the South Rim]344
[Down Hermit Trail from rim to river]344
[Through the Granite Gorge surges the muddy Colorado]346
[When morning mists lift from the depths of the Grand Canyon]346
[El Gobernador, Zion National Monument]362
[Zion Canyon from the rim]364
[The Three Patriarchs, Zion Canyon]364
[Casa Grande National Monument]374
[Prehistoric cave homes in the Bandelier National Monument]374
[Tumacacori Mission]376
[Montezuma Castle]376
[Roosevelt party in Monument Valley]386
[Rainbow Bridge in full perspective]386
[The Petrified Forest of Arizona]396
[Petrified trunk forming a bridge over a canyon]396
[Cathedral Isle of the Muir Woods]406
[Pinnacles National Monument]412
[The Devil's Tower]412

MAPS AND DIAGRAMS

PAGE
Cross-section of Crater Lake showing probable outline of Mount Mazama[189]
Cross-section of Crater Lake[191]
Map of Hawaii National Park[230]
FACING PAGE
Outline of the Mesa Verde Formation[290]
Outlines of the Western and Eastern Temples, Zion National Monument[356]
AT END OF VOLUME
[Map of Yosemite National Park, California.]
[Proposed Roosevelt National Park and the Sequoia and General Grant National Parks, California.]
[The Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado.]
[Mount Rainier National Park, Washington.]
[Crater Lake National Park, Oregon.]
[Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming.]
[Glacier National Park, Montana.]
[Mesa Verde National Park, Colorado.]
[Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona.]
[Zion National Monument, Utah.]