An Account of the Bell Rock Light-House / Including the Details of the Erection and Peculiar Structure of That Edifice; to Which Is Prefixed a Historical View of the Institution and Progress of the Northern Light-Houses

by Robert Stevenson

CHAPTER VII.

ACCOUNT OF THE BELL ROCK LIGHT-HOUSE, FROM ITS COMPLETION IN 1810 TILL THE YEAR 1823, INCLUDING A STATEMENT OF THE EXPENCE OF THE WORK.

1811, January.

When the artificers left the Bell Rock, on the 27th of December 1810, Mr Forrest’s first object was to take down the rope-ladder, distended in a horizontal position between the entrance-door of the Light-house and the mortar-gallery of the Beacon, as it prevented the door from being conveniently shut, and thereby occasioned a draught of air through the several apartments, rendering the house uncomfortable, and proving injurious to the lustre of the reflectors. In lieu of this, another rope-ladder, fitted with wooden steps, was suspended from a Lewis-bat, inserted into the sill of the door. This ladder, when hauled up, was stowed in the passage, and thus admitted of the door being shut.

Fresh Provisions fall short at the Light-house.

During the last fortnight of the month of January 1811, the weather had been very unsteady, with gales of wind chiefly from the eastward; which prevented the Light-house Yacht, now acting as Tender, from sailing for the Rock till Thursday the 17th. Mr Forrest and the light-keepers were found in good health, and busily employed in their respective operations, now nearly brought to a close. No communication having been had with the shore for the last three weeks, their stock of fresh meat and vegetables was expended; and, looking forward to the possibility of a continuation of similar weather, they had begun to economise the fuel and water before this day’s supply came to hand.

A supply is received.

The next trip which the Yacht made to the Rock was on Tuesday the 29th. A letter from Mr Forrest stated, that he had received a very full supply of every thing, both for the light-room and provision-store, and added, “Let the weather be how it will, we shall not be in want even of the most trifling article, for a month to come.”

February.

Friday, 1st.

The Light is exhibited.

The day long wished for, on which the mariner was to see a light exhibited on the Bell Rock, at length arrived. Captain Wilson, as usual, hoisted the Float’s lanterns to the topmast on the evening of the 1st of February; but the moment that the light appeared on the Rock, the crew, giving three cheers, lowered them, and finally extinguished the lights. The Yacht had sailed on the 31st of January, for the purpose of taking this ship in tow for Leith, as being no longer necessary here; but in the course of that night, it came to blow so excessively hard from E.SE., that she was obliged to bear away for the Firth of Forth, leaving the Floating-light at her moorings.

Friday, 8th.

A Storm occurs when the House is lighted.

On the 9th, the Yacht returned, and, although a very heavy sea then ran upon the Rock, a landing was effected with a boat-load of coals, water, and fresh provisions. Mr Forrest states in his letter at this time, that every thing on the 1st of February, had been found to answer to his entire satisfaction. He, however, mentions, that the wind blew excessively hard during the three first days after the house was lighted, and that the sprays had risen to the height of 80 feet upon the building. He adds, that, in the course of this gale, all hands had kept watch without intermission for twenty-four hours, with the storm-window-frames at hand, in case of accident, as the plates of glass on the windward side of the light-room had shaken loose, and, by the continued violence of the wind, the putty had been “wrought quite thin, and was softened like mortar.” These plates of glass, measuring each 32½ inches by 26¼ inches, were so fitted with brass-guards that they could not possibly be blown out, in an entire state, but were in some danger of being broken, by pressing upon the window-sashes while the putty was thus softened. Mr Taylor, who upon this occasion commanded the Yacht, had considerable difficulty in approaching the Light-house, and observes, “There being now no attending-boat to accompany our landings at the Rock, I find we must not run such risks as formerly, as, in the event of an accident happening to us singly, no assistance can be got. To-day, one of those heavy rolling seas struck the boat, and pitched her upon one of the ledges, but she was got afloat again before the next breach of the sea reached her, and was afterwards carried like a shot out of the creek.”

Tuesday, 12th.

Floating-light puts into Anstruther.

The wind having shifted to the west, with moderate weather, the Yacht sailed from Arbroath to-day, to take charge of the Floating-light. Having accordingly received a hawser on board, she cast off the chain-cable moorings, on which a buoy was placed, it being impossible, at this time, to lift the mushroom-anchor. The wind was then at N.NE., and the crew were all extremely happy in the prospect of soon finishing their task, declaring that they had been more tired of the Floating-light during the last twelve days, than all the time they had been on board of her. At 10 P. M., the wind suddenly shifted to W.NW., and when abreast of the Island of May they wore-ship, for the Floating-light was so unmanageable that she could not be stayed or tacked in the usual manner. They then stood to the north shore, and anchored off Crail during the night, in seven fathoms water. On the 14th, the wind being still down the Firth , it occupied the whole period of the flood-tide to get about six miles to windward, and night coming on, Captains Wilson and Taylor concluded that it would be most prudent for them to put into Anstruther harbour, and there wait for a fair wind. While the Floating-light lay here, the Yacht made a trip to the Bell Rock, and relieved the Light-keepers, when all was found well.

Some of her Crew get married.

At Anstruther a great deal of interest was felt, and people even flocked from a considerable distance, to see a vessel which had been moored, for nearly four years, off the Bell Rock. The singularity and simplicity of her rigging attracted the attention particularly of nautical men, while the thick bed of sea-weed and shell-fish on her bottom, was matter of surprise to every one. The crew had also become so well acquainted in this port, and the neighbouring fishing-towns, that some of them had got married, and if the vessel had remained another week or two in port, the probability is that she would not have had an unmarried man on board.

State of the Floating-light’s bottom.

1811, March.

The Floating-light at length arrived at Leith, on the 8th of March, after a passage of no less than three weeks from her station. The account given of the marine productions on the ship’s bottom, had excited the curiosity of several of the writer’s friends; and, on her arrival, he was accompanied by the Reverend Dr Fleming of Flisk, Dr Leach of the British Museum, and Mr Patrick Neill, Secretary to the Wernerian Society, who examined, with great attention, the numerous crustaceous, testaceous and molluscous animals, and zoophytes, which still adhered in great numbers to her bottom. Mussels of the species called Mytilus pellucidus, were abundant: they were of a large size, the striæ on the shells measuring 3½ inches in length, by 1¼ inch in breadth. Some of the common acorn-shell, Balanus communis, were so large as 1½ inch in diameter. The sea-weeds were chiefly Fucus digitatus and esculentus, and were in general 4 or 5 feet in length. During the time the Floating-light had rode off the Bell Rock, the crew had made a regular practice of picking off considerable quantities of the mussels for fishing-bait for the several vessels in the Light-house service, and also for the artificers at the Rock. It was therefore chiefly in the runs and lower parts of the bottom, where they had never been disturbed, that the animals were in the greatest numbers; and here also the fuci were longest. Next to the keel, the writer measured a compact bed of these mussels and vermes, of the depth of from six to eight inches; and Captain Wilson, upon first seeing her bottom at Anstruther, described it in his letter to be a “complete mussel-scalp.” The timber of the ship, however, was quite sound.

Sunday, 24th.

The Light-keepers get their turns of liberty ashore.

The Light-house Yacht had no sooner got her troublesome charge safely into port, to be dismantled and sold, than she returned to the Rock, to supply the Light-house and shift the keepers; but such was the boisterous state of the weather, that no landing could be made till the 22d, when Mr John Reid relieved Mr John Bonyman, who went ashore in his turn. The Yacht then steered for Leith, when the command of that vessel was given to Captain Wilson, while Captain Taylor took charge of the Bell Rock Tender,—situations for which their services had respectively qualified them.

Letter from the Superintendant Light-keeper.

The Yacht, when last at the Rock, brought a letter from Mr Forrest, in answer to a number of queries, on points to which his attention had been directed, during his residence in the Light-house. He replied with so much intelligence and correctness of observation, that it may be proper here to give his letter verbatim.

Bell Rock Light-house, 14th March 1811.

“SIR,

“I received your letter of the 7th of January, desiring me to give you an account of every particular occurrence at the Bell Rock during the winter, including the effects of the sea on the building, the comfortableness of the Light-house as a dwelling, and the ability of the light-keepers for their duty. In answer, I will now endeavour to give you the information wanted, which I shall do in the order of the particulars which you sent me, having, in consequence of your instructions, noticed every thing about the place.

Effects of the sea on the building.

“Nothing extraordinary happened from the time I came here, on the 15th day of December, till the 1st day of February, when the house was lighted to the public. On that night, it appeared as if nature, on the first lighting of the house, were making trial of the sufficiency of the building. During all that night and the following day, there was nothing to be seen but the sea covered with foam as far as the eye could reach. The only damage we sustained, was the loosening of a number of the panes of glass, which I noticed to you in a former letter. During the gale, the sprays did not rise higher than the bed-room windows, or about 70 feet above the level of the sea. I paid particular attention to your directions, as to whether I could feel the house shake; but I was not then very sensible of this effect, the tides being neap, though, at the time of high-water, there was a kind of vibration felt when the sea did not break till it reached the building. The most sensible feeling, however, of this kind which we have, is when there is a very heavy ground-swell after a gale at N.E. On these occasions, the sea rises at intervals on the building, till the sprays are stopped in their course upwards by the cornice; but this only happens when the heavy swell occurs with spring-tides. On the 15th of February, we felt the vibration very sensibly, which had not so much the effect of shaking, as that of the tremor produced by the striking of the alarm bells, on the balcony of the Light-house, in foggy weather, when the storm-shutters, windows, and hatches are shut. During some gales from the S.E., especially when the wind continues two or three days from that quarter, the seas rise to a great height. At high-water, on these occasions, I have observed the Beacon-house, for perhaps a second or two, completely covered with waves and sprays. But every thing about that fabric remains quite entire, without the least damage that I can discover.

State of the Wagon-ways.

“I have done all in my power, with the assistance of the light-keepers, to preserve the waggon-ways, and we have frequently forgot ourselves in working at them, till the tide was too far advanced; and, in stormy weather, have been obliged to make a precipitate retreat up the rope-ladder, after a complete wetting. Some of the reaches are notwithstanding much broken up, and it will be a great pity if the remainder do not stand till the summer months, when they can be properly secured; for, at times, in the course of this winter, the Tender’s boat has brought us supplies, when, but for the waggon-ways, it would have been just the same as going to destruction, to have attempted a landing.

Remarkable effects of the sea in lifting a piece of lead.

“I often take pleasure in looking at the seas breaking upon the Light-house, and it is awfully grand, at the time of high-water, to observe the sprays rising to such a height on the building, and even to be on the Rock at low-water, when the waves are about to break. Being in a manner only a few yards distant, they approach as if they were about to overwhelm us altogether. But now that we are accustomed to such scenes, we think little of it. You will perhaps form a better idea of the force of the sea, during these gales, when I relate to you, that, on the 15th of February, the large piece of lead that was used as the back weight of the balance-crane, weighing 4 cwt. 3 qrs. 17 lb., or nearly a quarter of a ton, was fairly lifted by the sea, and carried to the distance of six feet from the hole, in which it had lain since the month of August. It was now found turned with the ring-bolt downwards, and it was with great difficulty that four of us could muster strength enough to return it to its former shelf in the Rock.

Direction of the seas which have most effect upon the Light-house.

“All the observations which I have made regarding the effects of the seas and weather on the Light-house, while I have been here, lead me to conclude, that when the wind is from the S., S.W., W., N.W., and even N., the sea has little effect on the building; but, from south to north-easterly, the force of the waves is considerable, especially when it comes to blow hard. During the gale of the 22d February, I remarked, that even the heaviest seas, if they broke before they came to the foot of the building, slipped past without giving the least shock to the house; and it is only a very few of the waves that reach the building, in the course of a tide, which cause the vibration alluded to; but we fear those seas only which come from the NE., as they break close upon the house. I may say, in general, that the higher or stronger the wind is, the less power the sea has on the Light-house; the heaviest seas being accompanied with little wind, or occurring after the gale has abated.

Comfortable state of the building.

“With regard to the comfort of this building as a dwelling, I had no other expectation but that, on account of the sea-air, and newness of the walls, the house would have, in the first instance, been damp. It is, however, the very reverse of this, and I may confidently say, that it is as dry round the inside walls, and on the floors, as any house in Edinburgh. This may be chiefly occasioned by the smoke-tube which passes from the kitchen through the upper floors to the cupola of the Light-room, which contributes greatly to the dry state of the building; but we even find the store-rooms and stair-case, which, as yet, have not the benefit of a fire, also comparatively free of dampness. As a proof of this, it may be noticed, that the lower parts of the house dry pretty readily when the floors are washed, excepting, indeed, when a heavy sea runs, and some water comes in at the checks of the windows, and partially wets the lower apartments. It is, however, impossible entirely to keep out wetness at windows, which, for conveniency, must be made to open, especially when so great a body of water occasionally presses upon them. As to the warmth of the house, ever since we got The Jacob’s ladder taken down, and the Entrance-door shut, we have been very comfortable. I never heard the least complaint on this head from any of the Light-keepers, and it is a general remark that we are warmer here than ashore.

Qualifications of the Light-keepers.

“With regard to your inquiries about the Light-keepers, I may remark, that Mr John Reid, the principal keeper, appears to like his situation very well, though, at first, when the sea struck hard upon the building, he seemed rather sad, and was perhaps not so confident about it. When he was in that mood, I used to cheer him by telling him it was only a fancy; and as he is a very sensible man, and originally bred a seaman and carpenter, his mind readily complies with a belief in our safety. Mr John Bonyman, the principal assistant, appears to take well with his situation; and having been personally employed as a mason from first to last in the erection, and more fully understanding its nature, he always keeps himself very easy upon this point. Mr Henry Leask, though formerly a shipmaster, yet having for several years been a light-keeper, has been much at home with his family, and his attention is naturally drawn more towards them; however, he appears quite satisfied, though he does not speak very confidently about our habitation, but shrugs up his shoulders, and looks strange when he feels the tremor of the house. As to their qualifications as light-keepers, I have not the least hesitation in stating, that Mr Reid and his assistants are now fully competent for their duty. We proceed agreeably to our written instructions, though there are some parts of them which I shall take the liberty of submitting to you for alteration.

1811, April.

Manner in which they spend their time.

“I will now let you know how we come on with what I may call our domestic life. When the duty of the house is over for the day, we generally take a walk on the waggon-ways, and search about the crevices of the rock for small fishes, when the state of the tides and weather permit; but when that is not the case, we content ourselves without it, and find amusement in reading a small library, consisting of about a dozen of volumes of one kind or other, collected among us; and you know we have the progressive numbers of the Scots Magazine and the Weekly Chronicle, which we receive as regularly as the situation of the place will admit. I may further notice, that it gives the Light-keepers much pleasure to learn that Mr Slight has received orders, in fitting up the strangers’ room, to provide it with a book-case, which we understand the Commissioners are to supply with books. On Sunday, we attend to the general rule of the service, doing no more work in the Light-room than is necessary, cleaning only the reflectors, lamp-glasses and windows, operations which are usually over at this season about 12 o’clock, after which we meet for prayers, and read two or three chapters of the Bible.

“I have perhaps tired you with this long letter, but I could not give you the description you wanted in fewer words. I shall only further add, that we all remain in good health, and that every thing connected with the Light-room apparatus is in good order.—I am, &c. &c.

“John Forrest”

“To Mr Robert Stevenson,
“Engineer for Northern Light-houses.”

Friday, 2d.

They are left in full possession of the house.

From this very satisfactory communication, it was evident that the Light-house might now be left under the charge of Mr Reid and his assistants. The Tender accordingly sailed this morning, carrying off Mr Bonyman, who had been at Arbroath on leave; when Mr Forrest, who had been upwards of three months at the Rock, came on shore, leaving Mr Reid to instruct his third assistant, Michael Wishart, the mason who had been so severely hurt on the 30th June 1809, by the fall of the moveable beam-crane.

Progress of the ulterior works.

1811, May.

The houses erecting at Arbroath for the families of the Light-keepers, were roofed over in the month of May; at which period, the signal-tower for communicating with the Light-house, represented in [Plate XII.], had attained to half its height, or about 30 feet. The shipping at this station consisted only of the Smeaton as Bell Rock Tender, the other vessels which had been employed in carrying on the work, having been disposed of by public sale. As soon as the weather permitted, the artificers went off to the Rock to put the Railways in a state of repair after the gales of winter; for this purpose, the Beacon-house was still extremely useful as a smith’s shop, while it also served as a store for the implements and bulky articles connected with the fitting up of the interior of the Light-house.

The Lord Justice-Clerk Hope, and a party embark for the Bell Rock.

On the 24th of July, Lord Justice-Clerk Hope, Lord Boyle, Dr Hope, Mr Hamilton, and Mr James Spreull, besides Lady Charlotte Hope and Mrs Hamilton, embarked at Leith in the Light-house Yacht, to visit the Bell Rock. The wind being at SW., and blowing hard, the vessel had to put into Arbroath till the 26th, which prevented the Lord Justice-Clerk and his Lady from visiting the Light-house; but the rest of the party having remained, they had a most convenient landing on the Rock; were highly gratified with their visit, and returned in the Yacht to Leith on the 28th.

1811, September.

State of things at the Rock.

In the course of his annual voyage to the Northern Light-houses, the writer, on the 27th September, touched at Arbroath, and had the satisfaction to find that the Light-keepers’ houses were nearly in a habitable state, while the Signal-tower was ready for the plaster-work. Having landed on the following day at the Bell Rock, with Mr James Haldane, who had accompanied him thither on his first visit in the year 1800, they did not fail to express their mutual congratulations on the successful result of those operations which, on the former occasion, had been contemplated at a very distant view. On examining the Light-house, every thing was found to be in good order, and Mr Reid, and his assistants, quite satisfied with their habitation. Mr Dove had completed the copper flag-staff, and also the iron-grating on the outside of the Light-room, for the greater conveniency of cleaning the windows: Mr Slight had made great progress in fitting up the oak partitions, beds, and interior finishing of the house; and had dismantled the upper parts of the Beacon-house, which was now reduced to its state in 1809, as represented in [Plate VIII.] At low-water, all hands were engaged at the Railways to fortify them also for withstanding the storms of winter; and it was chiefly for this purpose that the principal beams of the Beacon-house were preserved on the Rock. It had been originally intended to erect a stone-slip for the conveniency of landing, till, from experience, it was found that the iron Railways were more suitable to the circumstances of the place than solid masonry; the waves acting with much more force on the solid wall, than on the open railways.

Tender goes adrift.

On the 12th of this month, the Smeaton having been, for several days, at the Rock, landing stores and articles for the artificers, unluckily broke adrift by the failure of the mooring-chain. As it came to blow fresh from W. NW., she narrowly escaped shipwreck; and having been driven eastward as far as Dunnottar Castle, it was not till Tuesday the 15th that she returned. This shewed the uncertainty of making the Tender fast to moorings at the Rock, excepting in fine weather, and pointed out the propriety of keeping her under-way, during her future casual attendance for the supply of the Light-house. This arrangement, however, required that the mate and one seaman should be left on board, while the master and other two were at work in the boat.

Boats suitable for the Bell Rock.

“Bruce’s boat.”

It may here be noticed, that a boat, in order to be at once safe and convenient for landing at the Bell Rock, should measure not more than from 14 to 16 feet in length of keel. A boat, therefore, of a proper size for parties visiting the Light-house from the shore, will be found too large for landing at the Rock; because, when she has still a depth of water to float her into the several creeks, the tide has not sufficiently ebbed to afford shelter from the breach of the sea, even when there is but a slight swell on the Rock. In like manner, she requires to lie too long in floating off again, and is consequently more apt to be damaged than a smaller boat. A decked vessel, with a float-boat of the dimensions mentioned above, is the safest; or, if a large open boat is used to go from the shore, it should not be less than 20 feet in length of keel, carrying a small boat, upon the plan of “Bruce’s Two-half boat.” This description of craft may be conveniently stowed into the fore-peak of a large boat, and, when put to use, the two-halves are screwed together with great facility, and used with perfect safety as one boat. For this ingenious contrivance, the public are indebted to the late Mr James Bruce, of the Naval Yard establishment, Leith.

Light-house Stove takes fire.

Owing to inattention on the part of the Light-keepers, the chimney of the temporary stove, which, for the present, was fitted up in the kitchen, had been allowed, on the 20th of this month, to take fire; and though the surrounding apparatus was proof against burning, yet the heat of the tube, which passes through the Light-room, so cracked and damaged six of the squares of plate-glass, that it was judged proper to replace them with others from the stock on hand.

1811, November.

Sprays rise to the height of the Light-room.

The month of November set in with S.E. winds, and the tides and sea upon the shores of the Firth of Forth, rose higher than had been observed for the last thirty years. During this gale, while Mr Leask, one of the keepers, was standing upon the balcony, a considerable quantity of sprays broke over the cornice, so as to wet all his clothes, and to strike against the glass of the Light-room so forcibly, as to alarm those who were within. This was the first instance observed of the sea rising to the height of about 108 feet above the surface of the Rock. The Light-keepers also stated, that when the tide was at the highest, they expected every minute that the Beacon would have been swept away, as it was frequently wholly under water when the sea broke around the Light-house; nor were they altogether at ease as to their own situation. Several large masses of stone were, upon this occasion, thrown upon the Rock; a mass of about two tons, completely blocked up one of the landing-places until it was broken and removed. The Railways also suffered severely, having been dislocated in several places.

Advantage of double windows.

In the course of the month of December, the Light-house had been visited with very severe gales, but the keepers were now gaining more confidence in the stability of their habitation. Captain Taylor, who commanded the Tender, on questioning them when he landed on the Rock, how they had stood out the bad weather, they, to his surprise, replied, “There has been nothing remarkable in the weather.” They further stated, “that, when the doors and storm-shutters were made fast, and the double windows shut, all was quiet in the several apartments: it was only when they went to the Balcony that they heard the wind: and that the house had little or no motion by the sea striking it, excepting in storms from the north-east, east, or south-east, but especially from the north-east.”

1812.

The Light-house excites much interest.

The light had now been exhibited for twelve months; and it was highly gratifying to the Board to find, from almost every quarter of the coast, by the testimony of those who had seen it at sea, that this important edifice gave universal satisfaction, appearing in all respects to answer the fullest expectations of the mariner. It appeared also from the Album, or book kept at the Light-house, for inserting names, that nearly 500 strangers had landed to see it, in the course of the summer season.

1812, August.

Sir William Rae and Mr Duff visit the Rock with parties.

On the 21st of August, Sir William Rae, Baronet, the Lord Chief-Baron Dundas, General Francis Dundas, Mr Jardine of the Exchequer, and Mr Russell, accountant to the Board, visited the Light-house, when the Chief-Baron expressed his entire approbation of the work and establishment in general. About the same period, Mr Duff landed, accompanied by Mr Foulerton, one of the Elder Brethren of the Trinity-House, Mr Menzies of Pitfoddels, and the late Mr Taylor of Kirktonhill, who were in like manner much pleased. It was, upon this occasion, gratifying to hear Captain Foulerton’s remarks of approbation, as his official connection with the English Light-house Board, more especially qualified him for judging of the Bell Rock works.

The Beacon is removed from the Rock.

On Friday the 4th September, at 5 A. M., the writer landed at the Rock with Mr James Slight, clerk of works, who, with eight artificers, was to commence taking down the frame or principal beams of the Beacon-house. This useful fabric might have remained for an indefinite period, but for the ravages of the insect already described, which had now affected the beams so much where they rested upon the Rock, as to render its removal advisable. In this operation the artificers were only employed for about three weeks, although it had occupied nearly the whole of two working seasons to erect it. The Tender made occasional trips ashore with the timber, the great iron stanchions, bracing-bars, and numerous bolts, which were to be employed in the erection of the buildings at Arbroath, and in the works of the Carr Rock Beacon.

Mode of securing timber against the insect.

The only remark which the writer has to make, regarding the erection of such a building as the Beacon-house is, that due precaution should be used in protecting the soles or feet of the beams, where they rest upon the Rock, and are inaccessible to the application of pitch or other preventives. Sheathing with copper might, perhaps, be found the best protection; but, in such situations, the copper should be coated with tin, to prevent any action between it and the iron-work.

Light-house assailed by a gale.

On the 1st of October, Mr Slight, accompanied by several artificers, went again off to the Light-house with the remaining apparatus for finishing the interior of the house, having still the bed-room to fit up, the brass-plates for the safety of the sill and lintel of the entrance-door, and a variety of other small works to complete. The railways were also in want of some additional stays, to fit them for withstanding the storms of winter. These operations, however, were conducted much more slowly since the removal of the Beacon; and it now became necessary to erect the smith’s forge upon the balcony of the Light-house, for sharpening tools, and other little operations.

1812, November.

Remarkable shock of the sea.

On Saturday the 14th of November, a very severe storm took place, accompanied with a heavy sea from the S.E. A letter from the Light-house stated, that, “at high-water in the evening, a tremendous sea struck the house, the effect of which was the most alarming that had been experienced perhaps since it was erected. The locks upon the doors were heard to rattle; and what makes this the more singular is, that not another sea of consequence struck the house during the whole tide.” Upon further inquiry into this matter, the writer found that the artificers, and two of the light-keepers were then in the kitchen; upon the shock taking place, the whole sprung up to the balcony, imagining for the moment that some vessel must have got upon the Rock, and that the report heard was the discharge of a gun, so sudden and sharp was the sensation which it occasioned. But they soon found that their alarm was occasioned by the sea alone.

Professor Robison’s opinion on this subject.

The writer has often thought of this surprising effect of the force of the sea; and he finds it difficult to assign a cause for the motion of the doors in so low a position of the building as the kitchen; otherwise than by supposing a disturbance in the equilibrium of the air, by the sudden displacement of the column of water, which, upon these occasions, rises upon the building. The tremor felt in leaning against the walls in the upper apartments, when it blows fresh, or when the house is struck by a sea, or by a boat coming suddenly against it, may be compared to that which is perceptible in a common house, upon the slamming of particular doors, or when a carriage makes a rattling noise in passing along the streets; but it is attended with no real danger. In confirmation of this, it may be mentioned, that when the late Professor Robison of Edinburgh visited the Edystone Light-house, something having forcibly struck the building, he was sensible of a vibratory motion in one of the rooms in which he was then sitting. But, instead of producing any alarm in the mind of the Professor, he assured his friends, that it was to him the strongest proof of the unity and connection of the fabric in all its parts. This anecdote the writer is desirous of preserving, as it was communicated to him by this eminent person.

View of the Sea, from which the Frontispiece is delineated.

1812, December.

The writer being in Forfarshire at this time, was desirous of seeing the effects of the sea upon the Light-house, after the Beacon had been removed. He accordingly embraced the opportunity of sailing from Arbroath with the Tender, in a pretty hard gale from north-east, at 4 o’clock in the morning of the 9th of December, and, at 7, got close to the Rock. The Light-house now appeared in one of its most interesting aspects, standing proudly among the waves, while the sea around it was in the wildest state of agitation. The Light-keepers did not seem to be in motion; but the scene was by no means still, as the noise and dashing of the waves were unceasing. The seas rose in the most surprising manner to the height of the kitchen windows, or about 70 feet above the Rock; and after expending their force in a perpendicular direction, successively fell in great quantities round the base of the Light-house, while considerable portions of the spray were seen adhering as it were to the building, and guttering down its sides in the state of froth as white as snow. Some of the great waves burst, and were expended upon the Rock before they reached the building; while others struck the base, and, embracing the walls, met on the western side of the house, where they dashed together, and produced a most surprising quantity of foam. Upon this view of the breaking of the seas at the Light-house, the frontispiece for this work has been delineated.

The Sea overruns the Rock at low-water.

Though there was no possibility of effecting a landing to-day, yet the vessel lay off-and-on till low-water, that the writer might also then see the state of the waves upon the Railways. He found that they still continued to make a constant run over them; and that no one could have stood upon any part of the rock, even for the space of one minute, without having been thrown down and carried away by their force. After lying-to till 10 o’clock, the Tender bore away for the Firth of Forth, leaving the inhabitants of the Rock surrounded, and even enveloped by the sea in its utmost fury, yet in a state of comparative comfort, and enjoying feelings of the most perfect security.

Mode in which the Light-house is attended.

The regulations observed in attending the Bell Rock are these. The vessel stationed at Arbroath goes off every fortnight, or in the course of each set of spring-tides, to relieve the Light-keepers, and to supply the house with necessaries; but when the weather does not admit of this, the master’s instructions direct him to embrace the first favourable opportunity thereafter. Of the four keepers belonging to this establishment, three are always at the Light-house, while one is ashore on liberty. The regular term ashore is a fortnight, and the duty at the Rock is six weeks. During the rotations, however, in the course of the winter and spring, some of the keepers were detained upwards of three months upon the Rock, while others were four or five weeks ashore. The Tender had made several unsuccessful attempts to effect a landing during this period, and had been twice forced to Leith Roads, and once to the northward as far as Aberdeen. The light-keepers, however, seemed, upon the whole, pleased with their situation; and talked in a feeling manner of the hardships of mariners, whom they often saw tossed about during the storms of winter.

1813.

Establishment for the Light-keepers at Arbroath completed.

In the course of the year 1813, the Light-keepers’ houses, at Arbroath, signal-tower, and sea-wall connected with them, were completed; and a garden of upwards of an acre was enclosed, and laid out for the use of the families of the light-keepers, and for supplying the Light-house and Tender with vegetables. These buildings formed no part of the original design; but the Commissioners were resolved that this establishment should be complete. Had houses been hired in the town of Arbroath, for the light-keepers, much inconvenience would have arisen to the service, especially when the attending vessel was going off to the Rock under night. Besides the principal building occupied by the light-keepers, there are store-houses, and accommodation for the master and crew of the attending vessels, in an adjoining building, where each family has two or three rooms. The top of the signal-tower is formed into a small observatory, furnished with a 5 feet achromatic telescope, a flag-staff, and copper signal-ball measuring 18 inches in diameter.

Signals observed at the Rock.

By means of this, and a corresponding ball at the Light-house, certain signals are daily kept up between Arbroath and the Rock. The chief of which consists in hoisting the ball at the latter place to the top of the flag-staff, where it is kept, when all is well, every morning, between the hours of 9 and 10. But in case the weather should prove so foggy or cloudy at this hour, that the signals cannot be seen, the watch is again set at 1 P. M., and should it then become clear, the ball is again elevated, and allowed to remain till 2 o’clock. This signal is watched by the light-keeper who, in his turn, happens to be ashore on liberty, and who immediately answers it by hoisting the ball at Arbroath. Should the ball at the Rock, however, be allowed to remain down, as is the case when any thing is particularly wanted, or in the event of sickness, the Tender immediately puts to sea.

1814.

Thunder-rod.

The mechanical operations at the Bell Rock, during the year 1814, consisted principally in fitting up a thunder-rod or electrical conductor, on the exterior and western side of the building, as may be observed on the elevation of the Light-house in [Plate XVI.] This rod is continuous from the top to the foundation of the building, being connected with the sash-frames of the light-room, and the Railways upon the Rock. The best construction and application of rods for conducting the electric fluid, is a problem upon which scientific men are not altogether agreed; some being of opinion, that the conducting-surface should be large; while the slender bell-wires in dwelling-houses are found capable of conveying it in a body sufficient to destroy the premises. The fixing of a plate of any considerable breadth upon the exterior of the Light-house would have been attended with much difficulty; and the writer having consulted Professors Playfair and Leslie, and Dr Brewster, a rod was prepared by Mr Adie, optician, 2¼ inches in breadth, and, where thickest, 1 inch, the external side being slightly rounded, to suit the circle of the wall, and thus presenting the least possible resistance to the sea. The composition of this rod was one ounce and a half of tin to a pound of pure copper; and with its bats, screws, and connecting pieces, it weighed 556 pounds, or about one-quarter of a ton.

Method of fixing it.

In order to fix it to the building, a groove was cut in the exterior wall, as high as the solid part, about half an inch in depth, which was sufficient to receive the edge or thinnest part of the rod. On the higher parts of the building the wall was not cut, the flat side of the rod being simply applied to it; and in its track, brass-bats, previously perforated and screwed, were sunk in the wall to the depth of three inches, and run up with melted lead, at about two feet apart. The rod being cast in lengths of seven feet, the pieces were successively applied to the building, when the precise positions of the holes in the brass-bats were ascertained, marked on the rod, and bored on the spot for screw-nails of ⅝ths of an inch in diameter; the several lengths of the rod being half checked at each end, and the nail-heads counter-sunk, as shewn in [Plate XIX.] Fig. 10. The cutting of this groove and the bat-holes in the masonry, was done in a very masterly manner by the late Thomas Selkirk, of whom notice is here more particularly taken, as this was the last piece of work which he executed, as well as from his having been acknowledged by his companions to have been one of the best stone-cutters in Scotland.

1814.

A party of the Commissioners and Sir Walter Scott visit the Light-house.

On the 30th of July this year, Mr Hamilton, Mr Erskine, and Mr Duff, Commissioners, along with Mr (now Sir) Walter Scott, and the writer, visited the Light-house; the Commissioners being then on one of their voyages of Inspection, noticed in the Introduction. They breakfasted in the library, when Sir Walter, at the entreaty of the party, upon inscribing his name in the album, added the interesting lines, of which the reader will find a fac-simile on the second title-page.

1815.

Permanent Railways began to be fitted.

Lord President Hope lands at the Rock.

Though the temporary railways originally fitted up for the building operations had been thoroughly repaired, they were often found much in disorder, and required a still stronger mode of construction. In the course of this summer, therefore, part of the western-reach of the new or permanent Railway was fitted up, which was named Hope’s Wharf; Lord President Hope having landed upon it in the month of August, from the Latona Frigate.

1816.

Pharos Tender built.

The sloop Smeaton having been originally constructed as a stone-lighter, was not well adapted for sailing, or doing the duty of a Tender. A vessel, of 51 tons register, properly fitted for this service, was therefore built at Leith by Mr Morton, and launched in the summer of 1816, under the appropriate name of The Pharos. Besides her stern-boat, this vessel carries another upon deck, measuring 15 feet in length of keel; she is also sheathed with copper, and laid out with a fore and after cabin.

The Light-house is Painted.

Owing to the sprays of the sea, the colour of the upper part of the Light-house had become much changed, and had acquired a dark olive hue, while, on the western side, the granite courses below were of a whitish-grey; so that the building had now a party-coloured appearance. To remedy this, and especially to prevent the sandstone from imbibing moisture, it was, in the summer of 1816, painted in oil colour, of a greyish tint. The whole of the interior of the house being of polished masonry, was at the same time painted white; while the walls and roof of the library were decorated with pannelled work, in a very tasteful manner. Mr Macdonald of Arbroath the painter, having remained a considerable period in the Light-house, had several opportunities of observing the effects of the sea upon the Rock, and made some striking sketches of its appearance upon the building in storms, which have afforded useful hints to the artist who furnished the draught from which the frontispiece to this work is taken.

1818.

Fuci disappear from the Rock.

On visiting the Light-house in the summer of 1818, the writer was struck with the naked appearance of the Rock, the fuci having in a great measure disappeared. On examination he found that they had been cut off by vast numbers of a species of limpet, curiously striated with blue lines, (the Patella pellucida of naturalists). Among various other changes incidental to the plants and animals on the Rock, the barnacle was found to be fully more prevalent than formerly, and covered all the higher parts, like a greyish coloured scurf. One good effect connected with the disappearance of the sea-weed, was a more complete exposure of several large holes or inequalities in the Rock. Some of those, on the north-eastern side of the Light-house, being of a large size, varying from two to four feet in depth, the writer considered necessary to have filled with ruble-building, which, in an imbedded state, when executed with pozzolano-mortar, had been found to withstand the utmost force of the sea.

1819.

Permanent Railways completed.

In the course of the summer of 1819, Mr James Slight, and his brother Alexander (who had assisted throughout the works in making moulds for the stone-cutters, and in other operations requiring neat and ingenious workmanship), together with Messrs George Dove, Robert Selkirk, James Glen, James Scott, Alexander Brebner, and John Mitchell, completed the remaining parts of the western and southern-reaches of the railways, by the addition of a number of large cast-iron stays or braces, as represented in Figs. 13, 14, and 15, of [Plate X.] The bats of these new railways were wedged with timber and iron in the usual manner, and the feet of the supports, with their bats and spear-bolts, were plastered over with Roman-cement, with a view to secure them against the effects of oxidation.

Improvement on the entrance to the Light-house by a ladder of brass.

By taking the stores from the railways to the entrance of the Light-house up the sloping exterior wall, the joints of the courses at that part had been somewhat injured. The access also to the door had hitherto been only by a rope-ladder, or, to strangers, by a suspended chair, which was hoisted up by the crane fixed to the building. Both of these were liable to accidents and decay, from the wearing of the ropes by frequent use. In order, therefore, to prevent injury to the building, and to remove these defects, two strong bars of brass, of the same composition as the thunder-rod, were fixed on the building, from the door down to the rock, to answer the purpose of skids; and steps of the same metal, being attached to these bars by screw-bolts, a substantial and convenient ladder, or rather flight of steps, was thus constructed; and, as this apparatus became a fixture, ready entrance to the Light-house was provided for, and could on all occasions of emergency be safely obtained. A connection being also formed between this metallic-stair and the kitchen-chimney, a thunder-rod was thus obtained for the interior as well as the exterior of the house; the whole including the stair, weighing about 3133 pounds, or about 1 ton 8 cwt. of brass.

Sprays rise 105 feet.

In the course of the three last winters, the weather had been so uncommonly mild, that the sea, as appears from the Light-house Returns, had rarely risen upon the building higher than from 30 to 50 feet. But, in October 1819, there were some very severe gales, accompanied with heavy seas, the sprays of which, on the 24th, rose to the height of 105 feet above the Rock. The water had struck the light-room with such force at this time, that one of the assistants, then on watch, started from his seat, imagining that some serious accident had occurred. The writer having landed on the 20th November following, examined into the precise state of matters upon that occasion, when it was stated, that it appeared as if a bucket or two of water had been thrown with violence against the Light-room windows. Mr Reid, principal Light-keeper, and Mr Taylor, commander of the Tender, also confidently observed, that this was the most severe gale which they had experienced since they were connected with the service. It may, perhaps, therefore, be concluded, that the maximum force of the sea at the Bell Rock is to raise the sprays to the height of about 105 feet above the surface of the Rock.

A piece of the highest part of the Rock carried away.

These storms had proved so severe, that the Rock actually lost about 18 inches of its height, a fragment of that thickness having been carried away from the highest part. This spot the workmen had significantly termed “The Last-hope,” as marked on [Plate VI.], in allusion to the imminent hazard which the party on the Rock had incurred in the year 1807. The removal of this highest stratum is the more particularly noticed, as forming a link in the chain of probabilities, leading to the conclusion of the Bell Rock having once been of much greater extent.

1820.

Improvements on the Light-house, Brass-door, &c.

Though the Light-house might be considered as long since finished, various improvements have still at different times been made on it. In the course of the year 1820, an inner entrance-door was hung in the passage, chiefly to prevent the necessity of shutting the outer-door so frequently during the continuance of westerly winds. To save room, and cutting the walls, this door was constructed of brass-pannelled work, and the upper part glazed with plate-glass, to preserve the light. In the original fitting up of the interior of the house, the machinery-weight had been carried through the centre of the several apartments; but this having been found incommodious, the rope was now conducted close to the wall, in a small case; and, by introducing a double-pulley, the weight does not require to be brought higher than the floor of the Light-room-store, from which it descends into the drop-hole formed in the solid part of the building, as shewn in [Plate XVI.] The store-room for water, fuel, and provisions, was also fitted up this year in a more commodious manner, with cast-iron cisterns, an enlarged magazine for fuel, and a complete set of lockers. The water, which hitherto had been carried from the store to the kitchen in buckets, was now raised by a pump, fitted up after the manner of the beer-pumps in general use in London.

1821.

A new machine for taking up the stores.

The weather during 1821 was comparatively mild, and no storm of any consequence occurred at the Rock. The only work deserving notice that year, was the removal of the small crane from the entrance-door, to the provision-store; where a machine, upon a new principle, was constructed, the barrel or drum of which moves vertically upon its axis, instead of horizontally, while it winds up the chain. By means of this machine, the stores are now taken up to the entrance-door more conveniently; while both the door and passage are entirely relieved of the encumbrance of the crane-apparatus; as will be understood by examining [Plate XIV.] Fig. 7. and [Plate XVI.]

Mr Reid retires from the Light-house service.

In the course of this year, Mr John Reid, the principal light-keeper, on account of the state of his health, resigned his situation, and was succeeded by Mr Thomson Milne, reflector-maker. In consideration of Mr Reid’s faithful services, the Board put him on the half-pay list, at the rate of 30 guineas per annum.

1822.

Light-house works and model completed. Design for Wolf Rock.

In the year 1822, the several large holes in the Rock, formerly alluded to, were filled up, and that important work completed. The writer may here mention, that he is possessed of a complete model of the Bell Rock Light-house as executed, and of the chief implements mentioned in this work, which he will take measures for preserving to the Public; from a recollection of the interest he should have felt in examining any model of the Edystone Light-house, before he had an opportunity of seeing that work itself. He also, for similar reasons, gives a design, in [Plate XXIII.], founded on experience, as applicable to the erection of Light-houses on sunken rocks, which more particularly occurred to him after his first visit to the Wolf Rock situate between the Land’s End and the Scilly Islands, in the year 1813, under the auspices of the Admiralty, in the Orestes sloop of war, commanded by Captain Smith.

1823.

Severe storm. Carrier-pigeon sent from the Rock.

The year 1823 set in with perhaps as severe a storm as has occurred on this coast since the Light-house was erected. The Pharos, in the course of her attendance on the Rock, was driven first into the Firth of Tay, and thereafter into the Forth, where she was forced to anchor above Queensferry, about 70 miles from her station; and in the course of the winter, it was fully two months before she could effect a landing at the Light-house. The only accident, however, which happened during that period, was the breaking of the ratchet-wheel spring, which keeps the reflector-frame in motion, while the machinery is winding up. Though only of a trivial nature, and unconnected with the stormy effects of the sea, it nevertheless created considerable alarm among the families of the Light-keepers ashore, as the signal-ball was very properly kept down upon this occasion. Their anxiety, however, was relieved in the course of the day, by the arrival of a carrier-pigeon, with a billet from the principal light-keeper, intimating what had happened. A pair of these curious birds had originally been presented to the establishment by Captain Samuel Brown of the Royal Navy. They have now multiplied considerably; and two or more are generally conveyed to the Rock at every trip of the Tender, and let off occasionally for amusement. Their flight between the Light-house and the Signal-tower at Arbroath, upwards of 11 miles, has been ascertained to have been at the rate of about one mile per minute.

Expence and cubic contents of the Work.

In concluding these details, it may be proper to state, from the Abstract Accounts of the expence, quantity of materials, and description of workmanship, given in Appendix, No. [VI.], that the expence of this important national work amounted to L. 61,331:9:2; and that the cubical contents of the materials used in its erection were about 28,530 feet, and would weigh about 2078 tons.

General View of the Bell Rock Works.

Drawn by G. C. Scott from a Painting by A. Carse.

Engraved by Will^m. Miller.

PLATE XVIII.