THE WIRING

Fig. 50.—Jump Spark Wiring Diagrams.

In laying the wires for the ignition system, only the best wire should be used, and all contacts should be bright and clean. Connections should be tight, and covered with vaseline to prevent corrosion, additional protection being secured by binding all exposed places with so-called electric tape. There should be the fullest protection against chafing and moisture, and no sagging of the wires. Beginning with the battery, the cells should be placed in a box that holds them securely, so that there may be no jolting, for this in working the wires will tend to loosen the connections. In connecting the cells, the wires should be cut to correct length, but not so short that they will be drawn tight when connected. The insulation should be cut off cleanly, and the paraffin that will cling to the metal scraped off. The ground wire may then be run, after which the wires from the two batteries may be connected to the switch. (Fig. 50). On multicylinder engines, one circuit should be completed and tested before another is started, as this obviates the danger of confusing the wires. The primary wire should be run from a coil unit to its timer contact, making sure by the buzzing of the vibrator that the current flows when the switch is closed. A buzz of the vibrator when the timer is not making contact indicates a short circuit. The primary circuit for the coil having been correctly arranged, the secondary connection should be made and tested before laying the primary of the next coil unit. In making the timer contacts of a four-cylinder engine the firing order as established by the opening of the exhaust valves must be kept in mind. With the spark control lever in the retarded position, the timer should be set so that it is just beginning to make a contact when the piston in cylinder No. 1 is at top dead center of the compression stroke. This contact should then be connected to the primary terminal of the first coil, and the secondary of that coil connected to the spark plug. If the firing order is 1, 2, 4, 3, (Fig. 51), cylinder No. 2 will be the next to fire, and the primary of coil 2 should be connected to the next timer contact in the direction of rotation. As the next cylinder to fire will be No. 4, the timer contact that will next be reached should be connected to coil No. 4, the remaining contact point being connected to coil No. 2. In the diagram the timer is supposed to be moving in the same direction as the hands of a watch.

Fig. 51.—Jump Spark Wiring Diagrams.

There is no difference in the wiring of a horizontal double-opposed and a two-cylinder vertical 180° crank-shaft engine, as shown in Fig. 50, except that the timers are so built that in the first the two contacts are a quarter revolution apart, and in the second a half revolution.

In wiring a car with a single coil and secondary distributer the four contacts of the timer all lead to the primary terminal of the coil, the firing order being according to the manner in which the secondary terminals of the distributer are connected to the cylinders (Fig. 51).

Wiring for the make-and-break system is much simpler than that of the jump-spark, and when a magneto alone is used, it consists, as will be seen from Fig. 52, of only a wire from the magneto to the igniters, the other terminal of the magneto being attached to its metal base in such a manner that the ground connection is made when the magneto is secured in position on the engine. The firing order is according to the setting of the cams that operate the igniter tappets.

Fig. 52.—Make-and-Break Wiring Diagram. Magneto and coil. Battery for starting.

Fig. 53.—Make-and-Break Wiring Diagram. Magneto ignition without coil. Starting on magneto.

LUBRICATION TABLE.

	PART.	LUBRICANT.	QUANTITY.
	Engine cylinder	Cylinder oil	6-12 drops per minute.
	Engine bearings	Cylinder oil	8 drops per minute.
Require constant attention.	Fan bearings	Cylinder oil	1 drop every 2 minutes.
	Magneto, plain bearing	Cylinder oil	Keep pockets ⅔ full. Wash out with kerosene once a season.
	Clutch leather	(Vegetable), castor oil, neatsfoot oil	If clutch slips or leather gets hard, keep off machine oil.
	Valve lifters	Cylinder oil	With oil-can.
	Timer-shaft	Cylinder oil	With oil-can.
	Pump shaft drive	Cylinder oil	With oil-can.
	Magneto drive	Cylinder oil	With oil-can.
	Lubricator shaft	Cylinder oil	With oil-can.
Require attention daily.	Clutch release	Cylinder oil	With oil-can.
	Lever bearing	Cylinder oil	With oil-can.
	Steering knuckle	Grease	One turn.
	Water pump	Grease	One turn.
	Clutch-shifting collar	Grease	One turn.
	Transmission bearings	Grease	Two turns.
	Outer bearing live rear axle	Grease or oil	Two turns.
	Starting-crank bracket	Cylinder oil	Few drops.
	Spring shackles	Cylinder oil	Few drops.
	Make and break tappets	Cylinder oil	Few drops.
	Pedal-shaft brackets	Cylinder oil	Few drops.
	Speed-change lever	Cylinder oil	Few drops.
	Emergency lever	Cylinder oil	Few drops.
Require attention weekly.	Brake supports	Cylinder oil	Few drops.
	Brake equalizers	Cylinder oil	Few drops.
	Control levers and joints	Cylinder oil	Few drops.
	Spring hangers	Cylinder oil	Few drops.
	Clutch; multiple disk, steel on steel	Spindle oil and kerosene, or kerosene and little graphite
	Clutch; multiple disk, leather on steel	No oil, little graphite
	Internal expanding clutch	Thin oil
	Engine crank case.	Cylinder oil.
Require attention every two weeks or every 300 miles.	Steering gear case.	Grease.	3 turns or gunful.
	Transmission-case, sliding gear system.	Gear case compound or heavy oils, or either mixed with about ten per cent. of graphite.	Let gears dip.
	Transmission case, individual clutch type.	Light motor oil and little graphite.
	Planetary transmissions.	Non-fluid oil, or oil and graphite.	Fill up no higher than shaft bearing.
	Live rear axle housing.	Non-fluid oil or heavy steam engine cylinder oil; grease and oil.	One quart.
	Magneto, ball bearing.	Cylinder oil.	Small amount.
	Front and rear wheel-hubs; ball or roller bearing.	Grease.
Require attention monthly or every 500 miles.	Front and rear wheel-hubs; plain bearing.	Graphite and oil.
	Leather boots of steer-rod joints and steer drag-rod joints.	Grease.
	Universal joints.	Grease.	Remove covering, inspect and repack.
	Torsion and distance rods.	Oil.
	Timing gears.	Non-fluid oil; graphite if exposed.
Require attention at greater periods.	Friction disk transmission.	Keep oil off friction surfaces, wash off with gasoline, dress with belt dressing or French chalk.	Renew friction compost every 1,000 miles.
	Chains.	Chain graphite.	Twice a year boil in graphite and grease after washing well in kerosene.