DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING BIRD HOUSES
The figures given below are based on ½″ lumber, except the backs of wren and bluebird houses and the base and roof of martin house, which should be ⅞″ thick.
| Back | Sides | Front | Floor | Roof | Entrance | Air Hole | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bluebird house | 4″×10″ | 5″×7″ | 4″×5″ and 7″ | 4″×5½″ | 5″×8″ 4½″×8″ gable | 1½″ dia. in middle front | ½″ dia. in peak of gable |
| Wren house | 4″×14″ | 5″×7″ and 12″ | 4″×7″ | 3½″×4″ | 7″×8″ sloping | 1⅛″ dia. 5″ above floor | ½″ dia. in each peak |
For picture of bluebird house, see [inside back cover]; for picture of wren house, see [page 39]. The sides of both houses are nailed to the edges of the back in such a way as to let the back project below, about one inch.
In the bluebird house, the upper edges of the sides should be beveled to fit the slope of the roof. The front of this house is hinged upon a one-inch brad driven in, on each side, a half-inch above the lower corner. To enable the front to swing downward, as shown on [page 116], the floor must be fastened in place three-fourths of an inch above the lower edge of the sides. Before nailing on the roof, see that the front swings easily. Bore half-inch holes in the projecting back below and above, for wire to run through to strap the house in place. Add a perch of doweling a half inch below the entrance. See [figure on inside back cover].
The wren house is also provided with a swinging front, hinged like that of the bluebird house, but with the brads placed one inch from the upper corners so that it opens up instead of down. This is shown on [page 116]. The upper part of the back of wren house is planed flush with the sloping sides, and the roof is planed flush with the back. The air holes on each side will also serve for wire to run through. Other holes for this purpose should be bored in the projecting back at the bottom. Again see figure on [page 116]. Add a perch of doweling a half inch below the entrance.
THE FINISHED MARTIN HOUSE
RAISING THE MARTIN HOUSE
The holes in the backs should be about an inch apart on the surface and should be bored at an angle, so as to lead the wire snugly around the trunk. When the houses are put up for use, the front of each is securely closed by means of a screw eye on the side, which can be easily removed for the purpose of cleaning. Bluebird and wren houses should be in shade or part shade, about ten feet above ground, and mounted so that the upper part tilts slightly forward.
| Base | Box for lower story | Rooms | Entrances | Pole | 2 Posts | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Martin house | 30″×30″ | 7″×20″×20″ | 6″×6″×7″ | 2½″ dia. 1″ above floor | 4″×6″×16′ | 4″×6″×11′ |
In the center of the base a hole 4″×6″ is cut to fit the pole upon which the house is to be mounted. Two cleats are nailed underneath the base, crosswise of the boards and plumb with either side of the 4″×6″ hole. The box for the lower story is partitioned into nine compartments, each 6″ square and 7″ high. This gives eight outside rooms and a central space through which the pole may go. In order to provide ventilation near the ceiling, make the partitions only 6½″ high. They need not be nailed, but may be dovetailed, like partitions in an egg box.
To make the house so it can be easily opened, for cleaning or to rout the English sparrows, fasten the box for lower story in the center of the base by means of screw eyes and hooks, two on a side. The projecting part of the base will form a 5″-wide porch all around, a convenience which martins greatly enjoy. The ceiling is allowed to project 2½″ at the front and back to form porches for the upper rooms. Add a gable ample enough to afford at each end a room 6″ wide and 7″ high. In the upper end of the partition between these two rooms, cut a hole 2½″ in diameter. The reason for this is stated on [page 88], paragraph 2. The slanting roof should project 2½″ all around. Finish it with a flat top as shown in the first cut on [page 128]. Add posts 1″×1″×4″ on which to staple wire or doweling as perches for the martins. Fasten these little posts to the flat roof by screws from beneath, before nailing it to the house.
Now fit the pole to the central space and screw it securely to the cleats under the base, and the pole with the house on it is ready to be set up. The martin house should be at least fifty feet away from a tree or building, and fifteen feet above ground.
To mount the martin house so it can be easily let down to be cleaned or to rout the English sparrows, place the two posts four inches apart and have them at least six feet high. Set the pole holding the martin house between them and secure it with two bolts about four feet apart, the lower bolt being 1½ feet from the ground. To lower the house, remove the lower bolt and tilt the pole, as shown in the second cut on [page 128]. The posts should be creosoted and sunk five feet in cement.
This cut shows a block and tackle being used to tilt the pole. A further precaution against having the house crash to the ground would be a shears made of rough two by four scantling, which can be obtained in twelve-foot lengths. In making the shears, bolt the scantlings two feet from the top with an ordinary half-inch carriage bolt, and tie the bottoms so the legs will not spread too much.