Rambles in Rome / An Archæological and Historical Guide to the Museums, Galleries, Villas, Churches, and Antiquities of Rome and the Campagna

by S. Russell Forbes

CHURCH OF S. CLEMENT,

belonging to the Irish Dominicans, of which the late Father Mullooly was prior, to whose instrumentality we are indebted for the discovery of the ancient church, and the Temple of Mithras beneath it, under the present edifice. On some occasions (November 23rd, February 2nd, and the second Monday in Lent) they are illuminated. Father Mullooly has written a book on his discoveries; it can be purchased of the sacristan, and will be found very interesting.

The excavations have been carried out by voluntary subscriptions, and visitors are expected to make a donation in furtherance of this object. A book for the names and amounts will be found in the sacristy.

UPPER CHURCH.

The usual entrance from the street is by a side door, but the proper entrance is by a gate with a Gothic canopy of the thirteenth century, which originally formed part of the earlier basilica, thence through the atrium and quadriporticus, the only perfect ones of Rome. The aisles are formed by sixteen ancient pillars of different materials and orders. In the middle of the nave is the choir (514–22) from the earlier basilica; on each side are the ambones. The walls are adorned with Christian emblems, and a monogram of Agios—Holy. The nave is separated from the high altar by an ancient marble screen. Behind is the presbytery, which contains an ancient episcopal chair, with the name of Anastasius, who was titular cardinal of the church in 1108, engraved upon it. Upon the vault is a mosaic of 1297, representing Christ on the Cross, from the foot of which issue the four rivers of Paradise, with shepherds and their flocks, and peacocks. On the face of the arch is a mosaic of the time of Paschal II.—our Saviour; on either side two angels, and the emblems of the four evangelists; below are S. Peter, S. Clement, Jeremiah, S. Paul, S. Lawrence, and Isaiah; at the bottom, Bethlehem and Jerusalem, with the mystic lamb and sheep. In the chapel, on the right, the statue of S. John is by Simone; on the left, the picture of the Virgin is by Conca. The monument composed of two half-columns, with basket-work capitals and foliage reliefs, is to Cardinal Venerio, who died in 1479. To the left on entering, in the Chapel of the Passion, are the interesting frescoes by Masaccio (much spoilt by restoration), representing the Crucifixion, &c., and events from the lives of SS. Clement and Catherine. Outside the arch, the Annunciation, and S. Christopher carrying the infant Christ over a stream; within, S. Catherine forced to Idolatry, Instruction of the King's Daughter in Prison, Dispute with the Doctors, Miracle of her Deliverance, Martyrdom. Opposite is the history of S. Clement. Proceeding into the sacristy, which is adorned with paintings of various interesting parts of the more ancient buildings, a wide stair conducts to the

LOWER CHURCH,

founded on the site of S. Clement's house, it is supposed, in the time of Constantine. S. Jerome says: "The church built to S. Clement keeps the memory of his name to this day." So that it must have been erected before A.D. 400.

An inscription found in the excavations, bearing the name of Pope Nicholas II., shows that this basilica was perfect in 1061, when Nicholas died, so that it could not have been destroyed, as some think, by the earthquake of 896; but it was ruined in 1084, when Robert Guiscard burned all the public buildings from the Lateran to the Capitol, when he came to the rescue of Pope Gregory VII.

The ruin seems to have been purposely filled in by the builders of the upper church, and all the fittings possible removed into the latter, which, from the nature of its walls, was evidently constructed in haste, and before 1099, as Paschal II. was elected pope there on August 13th of that year. The lower church was discovered in 1857, when Father Mullooly was making some repairs in the church above. It consists of a nave and two aisles, formed by a line of ancient columns of various marbles: the space between each column has been built up to support the foundations of the church above.

In descending, the walls are covered with ancient fragments, and a small statue of the Good Pastor, found in making the excavations; as also the two sarcophagi and other fragments in the portico of the ancient basilica. At the entrance, on the left hand, is a painting of an ancient female figure, and a male head on the opposite wall; a little further, on the left, Christ surrounded with Saints, giving his benediction in the Greek manner; opposite, the Miracle at the Tomb of S. Clement at Cherson.[15]

THE ANGEL IS PREPARING THAT TOMB SUBMERGED IN THE SEA.
BEHOLD UNHURT HE LIES WHOM HIS RETURNING MOTHER SEEKS AGAIN.
Portrait of S. Clement. SEEKING ME IN PRAYER,BEWARE OF HURTFUL THINGS.	IN THE NAME OF THELORD, I, BENO DE RAPIZA,[16]FOR THE LOVE OF BLESSEDCLEMENT AND THESALVATION OF MY SOUL,HAD IT PAINTED.

Further along, translation of the relics of S. Clement from the Vatican to this basilica:—

FOR ALL AGES: MAY THE PEACE
OF THE LORD BE EVER WITH YOU.

—HITHER FROM THE VATICAN IS BORNE (NICHOLAS BEING POPE) WITH DIVINE HYMNS WHAT WITH AROMATICS HE BURIED.

—I, MARIA MACELLARIA, FOR THE LOVE OF GOD AND REDEMPTION OF MY SOUL, HAD IT PAINTED.

Right, north aisle, right hand wall, painting of S. Catherine; further on, in a niche, Virgin and Child, with two females, SS. Catherine and Euphemia; below, Abraham and Isaac; at the top, Head of our Lord; beyond, a Council; the next, above the steps of the tribune, Christ in the act of giving the Benediction; just beyond, an inscription:—

WHOEVER READS THESE LETTERS OF MY NAME, LET HIM SAY, GOD HAVE
MERCY ON UNWORTHY JOHN.

Passing into the nave, in the right-hand corner, is a fresco of our Saviour releasing Adam from Limbo. On the left wall, looking towards the modern altar (erected beneath the one in the church above, under which are placed the remains of S. Ignatius and S. Clement. Behind this a door leads to a space, recently excavated, where a portion of the first church, once covered with marble slabs, may be seen), Installation of S. Clement by S. Peter; Clement performing Mass; the Miracle of Sisinius; and Men drawing a Column—all on one pier.

THE LORD BE WITH YOU		THE PEACE OF THE LORD BE EVERWITH YOU.
—I, BENO DE RAPIZA, WITH MARY, MY WIFE, FOR THE LOVE OF GOD ANDBLESSED CLEMENT, HAD IT PAINTED FOR A FAVOUR RECEIVED.
CARVONCELLE.	ALBERTEL.	COSMARIS.	SISINIUS.
GET BEHIND THECOLUMN CARVONCELLEWITH ALEVER.	ALBERTEL, COSMARIS,DRAW ITUP.	FOR THE HARDNESSOF YOUR HEARTSYOU DESERVE TODRAW STONES.	SONS OFPute DRAWIT UP.

On the inside of this pier are S. Antoninus, and Daniel in the Lions' Den. On the same wall, higher up, Life, Death, and Recognition of S. Alexius; above which is our Lord seated, attended by Gabriel, Michael, Clement, and Nicholas, holding a book.

STRONG AS THE BONDS OF DEATH.
THAT IS MY RESIDENCE IN IT;YOU SHALL FIND AN ASYLUM.	COME UNTO ME, ALL YE THAT LABOURAND ARE HEAVY LADEN, AND I WILLGIVE YOU REST.
THE FATHER DOES NOT RECOGNIZE WHO ASKS HIS PITY.

The arabesque ornament at the bottom is very beautiful. Beyond this, at the side of the pier, are S. Giles and S. Blasius; at the end of the wall, S. Prosperius, the Maries at the Sepulchre, Christ releasing Adam and Eve from Hades, the Supper at Cana, the Crucifixion; and just beyond, the Assumption (eighth century).

MOST HOLY LORD LEO, POPE OF ROME.	SANCTUS VITUS
THAT THIS PICTURE MAY OUTSHINE THE REST IN BEAUTY, BEHOLD THEPRIEST LEO STUDIED TO COMPOSE IT.

Passing into the south or left aisle, on the wall, at this end, is a painting representing the Miracle of S. Libertinus, and one representing

WHERE THE ABBOT BEGS PARDON OF LIBERTINUS.

At the west end of this aisle, over the stairs, are the remains of a painting of the Crucifixion of S. Peter; and in the right-hand corner, S. Cyril's parting audience with Michael III. In the opposite corner is a baptism of some barbarian by S. Cyril, beyond which the projecting brickwork marks the site of the tomb of S. Cyril.

The nave is formed by a line of seven columns in their original places, in a wall of débris built to support the church above. These columns are of beautiful marbles, and stand upon a wall of the imperial period, which has been traced for 98 feet.

At the west end of the north aisle a flight of narrow steps leads down to a passage, 25 inches wide, formed between massive walls: that on the right is brick of the imperial period, forming the wall of S. Clement's house; that on the left, tufa, of the kingly period, being part of the walls of Servius Tullius. This has been heightened by a travertine wall of the republican period. The tufa wall has been traced for 500 feet, and the travertine wall upon it for 410 feet. About 20 feet is still buried, showing how low ancient Rome was in this valley. At the end of this passage another flight of steps leads up into the south aisle. In the centre of the passage is an entrance through the imperial wall (now blocked up on account of the water) into