| PAGE. |
|---|
| [CHAPTER I.] |
| The author meets with an advertisement in “The Times”—Finds an unexpected charm in his wig—Undergoes a cross-examination—Receives his credentials—Mistakes his road, and is set right by a friend—Eats a farewell dinner at Blackwall—And finally embarks in a new line of business | [1] |
| [CHAPTER II.] |
| Discomforts of the Channel—An unpleasant discovery—Horrors of the Rotonde—A traveller’s toilette—Chalons sur Soane—Lyons—A transplanted engineer—The Rhone—Arles—The Mediterranean—Marseilles | [8] |
| [CHAPTER III.] |
| The “Minos”—English and French appetites—Leghorn—Towting Jews—Civita Vecchia—Naples—Formalities of landing—Malta—Mr. Portenier—The “Lycurge”—Syra | [16] |
| [CHAPTER IV.] |
| The harbour of Alexandria—Mr. Furner—Scene at the Hard—A donkey stand—Triumphal entry into the Great Square—The “India agency”—The English Okella—Plague seals—Confidential talk—Mr. Raven—Hassan, the dragoman—The Bazaars—Arab shopkeepers—The Harraat—Pompey’s Pillar—The baths of Cleopatra | [24] |
| [CHAPTER V.] |
| The Café—Arab music—Artful expedient—The Ghawazee and Kowal—Change of costume—The lady from Beyrout—Odd procession—Showers of rose water—Arrival of the “Tagus”—The Overland Mail—Departure of the India-bound passengers—The Mahmoudieh—Atféh | [35] |
| [CHAPTER VI.] |
| The Nile steam boat—A deck dinner—Boulac—The Esbekier—The “Grand Eastern Hotel”—Mr. Raven’s office—The transit-business—Loading of the camels—Departure of the caravan—The Desert—The Stations—Water | [45] |
| [CHAPTER VII.] |
| Desert fare—The Bawaub—No. 4 Station—A siesta—The solitary tree—Pestilential breezes—A dry well—Suez—Waghorn’s Hotel—The “Berenice”—Return to Cairo—A thirsty driver—Cool reception at a warm bath—The pendant rag | [58] |
| [CHAPTER VIII.] |
| An Egyptian hammam—Inhuman tortures—The barber—The chiropodist—Delightful respite—Pale ale and Manillas—Raven’s collection—Dr. A.—Antiquities—Mr. Bell—His African adventures—The White Nile expedition | [70] |
| [CHAPTER IX.] |
| The Nile boat—Voyage down the river—Defensive preparations—Sudden squall—Narrow escape—Alexandria—Rival hotels—Lessons in donkeyship—Domestic cookery—The “Great Liverpool”—Physiology of the Seis | [82] |
| [CHAPTER X.] |
| Cairo—The Turkish bazaar—Test of a sword blade—The “Little Nile”—Recollections of the plague—The Eglintoun tents—Proceedings in the “Great Square”—Astonishment of the Pasha—A Mahomedan Dinner-party—Novel dishes—A Jewish wedding—Impertinent curiosity—The bride’s dower—A cunning Hebrew | [93] |
| [CHAPTER XI.] |
| Dwarkanauth Tagore—Storm in the Mahmoudieh—A chapter of accidents—The half-drowned cadet—Arab knavery—Effects of the murrain—Donkey-chairs—A midnight gallop—Alteration in prospect—My van and its occupants—An enraged Portuguese—Disagreeable situation—Christmas-eve—Midnight interruption—Goose and Champagne | [106] |
| [CHAPTER XII.] |
| Influx of travellers—Provision stores—The preserved “round”—New Year’s-day—Melancholy opening of New Year—Visit to the Pyramids—Old Selim—A moonlight walk—The Sphynx and German savans—Ascent of Cheops—The interior of the Pyramids—Unceremonious intruders—Trial of skill—A crack shot | [123] |
| [CHAPTER XIII.] |
| The village of Sakhara—Sheik’s house—The brick pyramids—Mummies—The sacred ibis—Return to Cairo—An agreeable billet—Preparation for a voyage—Disappointment—A parting—The last journey across the Desert—A dilemma—Bedouin Arabs—No. 4 Station—Departure from Cairo—Dinner at Mr. L.’s—Alexandria | [140] |
| [CHAPTER XIV.] |
| The “Minos” again—Café Francais—The Enfield stage—Departure from Egypt—Change of boats at Syra—A gale in the Mediterranean—Malta—The quarantine harbour—Fort Manuel—Inquisitive guardiano—Travellers’ collections—sanitary regulations and low diet—The parlatori—Resources in quarantine—Happy release | [156] |
| [CHAPTER XV.] |
| Choice of a route—The “Ercolano”—Syracuse—The Albergo del Sole—Sicilian cobbler—The ear of Dionysius—Beautiful gardens—Museum—Messina—Ancient fresco—Tropea—Stromboli—Naples—“Hotel de New York”—Herculaneum—Pompeii—Streets—Shops—Private houses—Progress of excavation | [168] |
| [CHAPTER XVI.] |
| The Campo Santo—Churches—The Miserere—Curious sculpture—Agnano—Grotto del Cane—Frogs—Pozzuolo—Cave of the sybil—Hot springs—Boiled eggs—Hot sand—No end of phenomena—Baiæ—Vesuvius—Resina—The hermitage—Fatiguing ascent—The crater—Coming down with a run—The “Mongibello”—Civita Vecchia—Rome | [183] |
| [CHAPTER XVII.] |
| The Roman Douane—The Hotel Cesarj—Meditations—The Caffé Greco—Its occupants—Morning walk—Wine carts—The Ruspoli—Bellamy’s toilet—Preparations for the Cervaro—The robing-room—Choice of a dress—The livery stable—Porta Maggiore—The Torre dei Schiave—A grand review—The quarries—Incantation to the sybil—The dinner—Return to Rome | [199] |
| [CHAPTER XVIII.] |
| The “Ponte Molle” club—Technical alphabet—Moccoletti—The black board—Election of candidates—The illustrated chorus—Harmonies—Change of domicile—The Via Sistina—The Pincian promenade—Trasteverini—The French Academy—High art and its votaries—Roman models—Pifferari—Pietro Pombo—The Via Margutta—L——, and his painting—Extraordinary model—Pictures and studios | [216] |
| [CHAPTER XIX.] |
| The “Greco”—Signor Giovanni—Frequenters of the Barcaccia—Pietro—The Roman cigar—Caffé du’ Bon Gout—“Punch a la Romaine”—Italian eating-houses—The Lepri—Old Aurelio—Terribile—Roman bill of fare—Sweets—English errors—Dessert—The Lepri Garden—The “Gabbione”—Its neighbourhood—Fried fish—Alessio—“Una Bomba Alla Cerito” | [235] |
| [CHAPTER XX.] |
| The tombola—Mausoleum of Augustus—The montgolfier—Curious finale—The bigliardo—Pool—Sir T. B.—An amusing acquaintance—The bewildered barber—The dog “Pincio”—Preparations for Carnival—Bombarding in the Corso—Characters—Charlatans—The Festini | [247] |
| [CHAPTER XXI.] |
| Journey to Florence—My friend Luish—A suspicious landlady—Monterosi—Nepi—The hotel—Luish’s hat—Civita Castellana—Otricoli—My washerwoman’s cousin—The merchandize cart—Narni—Terni—Pie-di’-Luco—The echo—Strittura—Egg diet—Fuligno—Perugia—Boarding-houses—Florence | [264] |
| [CHAPTER XXII.] |
| The “Porta Rossa”—Journey to Bologna—The Belli Arti—Arcades—Certosa—Our fellow-travellers—The parrot—Austrian Douane—Ferrara—Padua—Caffé Pedrocchi—Venice—The Casa Raffaelli—Gondolas—Luish’s professional pursuits—My friend D. again—Titian—Military salute—The Passeggiata | [280] |
| [CHAPTER XXIII.] |
| The Caffés of Venice—The “Florian”—The “Imperatore D’Austria”—Piazza—Venetian hawkers—Musicians—Merchants of Caromel—The Schiavoni—Italian cards—The Birrarie—San Moise—An accordeon player—Quintavalle—Queer fish—Dining-rooms—Serenades—Night on the Grand Canal—The Rialto—San Lazzaro—Malamocco—Chioggia—Captain Rovere in danger | [298] |
| [CHAPTER XXIV.] |
| The Ducal Palace—Bridge of Sighs—The Pozzi—Campanile—View from the summit—Swifts—The pigeons of St. Marks—Departure from Venice—The Ancona steamer—The Adriatic—Vicissitudes of a sea-voyage—The unfortunate friar—Pola—Its antiquities—The hotel—Ancona—The Custom-house—Disappointment—A village in the Appenines—Fuligno—Assisi—The boarding-house—San Francesco—Musical shoemakers—Spoleto—My countrywoman—Terni—Rome | [313] |
| [CHAPTER XXV.] |
| Change of domicile—Francesco—Friends from England—Picture-shops—Old painting—Artists and their patrons—Mr. Titmarsh—Anecdote of N—— —The dinner at Bertini’s—The English Academy—Table talk—Harmony—The Americans—Roman gaieties—Torlonia’s—The Festini—Hospital of San Michele—The Quirinal—Via Gregoriana—Mr. Raven again—The English church—The Friends’ meeting-house—Illumination of St. Peter’s | [333] |
| [CHAPTER XXVI.] |
| Tivoli—Country excursions—Ciciliano—Hospitality of the mountaineers—The Porta San Lorenzo—Visit to the Governor—Another start northward—Florence—The Uffizii—S——, and his head of Velasquez—The flood of the Arno—Mr. M.—Lord D.—Unexpected summons—Pisa—Leghorn—Genoa—The “Diligence”—Alessandria—Turin—The railway deputation—Expedition to the Mont Cenis—Susa—Bardoneche—My friend B.’s mountain ramble—Successful “Jodeln”—The valley of the Dora Susa—Departure from Turin—Conclusion | [351] |