ERMINE
Gentlewomen's Apparel.
What we call Ermine is an erroneous conception, for we give the name to White Fur tufted with Black, whereas it is the Black only that is properly Ermine, of which numberless instances may be produced, and this is one.
Powderings on her Bonnet.—This may require an explanation to those who are unacquainted with the language of that age. What we call Ermine, is a compound, which will bear a little analysis, for it is formed of the Fur of one animal, and the tip of the Tail of another. The White Ground is, properly speaking, Minever, so called from a Russian animal of that name. [v. Philips's Dictionary, in voce.] The Ermine is the Armenian Mouse, the tip of whose Tail is Black, which being placed as a falling tuft upon the Minever, forms what we collectively call Ermine, the value of which is enhanced the more, as one animal can afford but one tuft. [v. Bailey's Dict, in voce.] Every one of these tufts is termed a Powdering.
The Heralds make a distinction between the singular Ermine, and the Plural, Ermines; the latter, in their language, importing Black powdered with White: and they go into still more minute modifications, Erminois, &c.
Apparel for the Heads of Gentlewomen.
First, none shall wear an Ermine, or Lettice-Bonnet, unless she be a Gentlewoman born, having Arms.
Item, a Gentleman's Wife, she being a Gentlewoman born, shall wear an Ermine or Lettice Bonnet, having one Powdering in the Top. And if she be of honourable stock, to have two Powderings, one before another, in the Top.
Item, an Esquire's Wife to have two Powderings.
Item, an Esquire's Wife for the Body to wear five Powderings; and if she be of great Blood, two before, which maketh seven.
Item, a Knight's Wife to wear on her Bonnet, seven Powderings, or eight at the most, because of higher Blood, as before.
Item, a Banneret's Wife to wear ten Powderings.
Item, a Baron's Wife thirteen.
Item, a Viscount's [Wife] to wear eighteen.
Item, a Countess to wear twenty-four. And above that Estate the number convenient, at their pleasures.
Ex Bibl. Harl. No. 1776. fol. 31. b.