ENGLAND AND CANADA.

A SUMMER TOUR

BETWEEN

OLD AND NEW WESTMINSTER

WITH HISTORICAL NOTES.

BY
SANDFORD FLEMING, C.E., C.M.G., Etc.

MONTREAL:
DAWSON BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS.
1884.


Entered according to Act of Parliament of Canada, in the year 1884, by
Sandford Fleming,
in the Office of the Minister of Agriculture.

GAZETTE PRINTING COMPANY, MONTREAL.


TO
The Right Honourable the Marquis of Lorne, K.T.
G.C.M.G., P.C., &C., &C.,
ONE OF CANADA’S TRUEST AND WARMEST FRIENDS,
WITH SINCERE RESPECT
THIS RECORD OF A JOURNEY FROM THE IMPERIAL CAPITAL TO THE
PACIFIC OCEAN, THROUGH CANADIAN TERRITORY,
IS DEDICATED.


CONTENTS.

[CHAPTER I].
INTRODUCTORY.
[CHAPTER II.]
HALIFAX TO LIVERPOOL.
Halifax—Cunard Line—Intercolonial Railway—Truro—Travelling by Pullman—New Brunswick—Miramichi—Great Fires in New Brunswick—Salmon Fishing—Micmac Indians—Rimouski—S.S. Parisian—The first Ocean Steamer the Royal William—Incidents of Ocean Voyage—Arrival.Page 11
[CHAPTER III].
ENGLAND.
Willie Gordon—Custom House Annoyances—Cable Telegram—Post Office Annoyances—London—Spurgeon’s Tabernacle—An Ancestral Home—English and United States Hotels—English Reserve—A Railway Accident—The Land’s End—A Deaf Guest.Page 33
[CHAPTER IV].
ENGLAND (Continued).
Marquis of Salisbury—Classical Studies—Henley Regatta—Red Lion—London Dinner to Lord Dufferin—His Speech—Greenwich—Fisheries Exhibition—Bray—The Vicar—The Thames—Minehead—The Polynesian.Page 58
[CHAPTER V].
ENGLAND TO CANADA.
The Ocean Voyage—Its Comfort—Moville—Mail Coach Road of Old Days—Impressive Service on Deck—Comfort on the Vessel—Rimouski—Halifax.Page 84
[CHAPTER VI].
NOVA SCOTIA.
Early Colonization—De Monts—Champlain—Sir William Alexander—Capture of Quebec—The Treaties—The Acadian Evangeline—Louisbourg—First Capture—Peace of Aix la Chapelle—Boundary Disputes—The Final Struggle—Deportation of the Acadians—Nova Scotia constituted a Province.Page 102
[CHAPTER VII].
HALIFAX TO QUEBEC.
Home in Halifax—Start for the Pacific—The Intercolonial Railway—Major Robinson—Old Companions—The Ashburton Blunder—Quebec—The Provincial Legislature—Champlain—The Iroquois.Page 119
[CHAPTER VIII].
QUEBEC, MONTREAL, OTTAWA.
Montreal—Ship Channel—Hon. John Young—St. Lawrence Canals—Indifference of Quebec—Quebec Interests Sacrificed—Need of a Bridge at Quebec—Montreal Trade in Early Times—Beauty of the City—Canadian Pacific Railway—Ottawa—The Social Influence of Government House—Kingston.Page 131
[CHAPTER IX].
TORONTO TO LAKE SUPERIOR.
Toronto—Collingwood—Georgian Bay—The Sault St. Mary—Navigation of the Great Lakes—Manitoulin Islands—Lake Huron—Arrival at the Sault.Page 147
[CHAPTER X].
LAKE SUPERIOR TO WINNIPEG.
Lake Superior—Early Discoverers—Joliet and La Salle—Hennepin—Du Luth—Port Arthur—The Far West—The North-West Company—Rat Portage—Gold Mining—Winnipeg.Page 161
[CHAPTER XI].
WINNIPEG, HUDSON’S BAY COMPANY, LORD SELKIRK.
Early Explorers of the North-West—Du Luth—De la Verendrye—Mackenzie—Hudson’s Bay Company—Treaty of Utrecht—North-West Company—Lord Selkirk—War in the North-West—Union of the Rival Companies—The North-West Annexed to Canada.Page 179
[CHAPTER XII].
WINNIPEG TO CALGARY.
Winnipeg—Great Storm—Portage-la-Prairie—Brandon—Moose Jaw—Old Wives’ Lakes—The Indians—Maple Creek—Medicine Hat—Rocky Mountains.Page 201
[CHAPTER XIII].
CALGARY TO THE SUMMIT.
Start for the Mountains—The Cochrane Ranche—Gradual Ascent—Mount Cascade—Anthracite Coal—Sunday in the Rockies—Mountain Scenery—The Divide.Page 221
[CHAPTER XIV].
DOWN KICKING-HORSE VALLEY.
The Descent—Summit Lake—The Kicking-Horse River—Singular Mountain Storms—An Engineering Party—A Beaver Meadow—A Dizzy Walk.Page 237
[CHAPTER XV].
TO THE SUMMIT OF THE SELKIRKS.
The Eagle Pass—Kicking-horse River—Valley of the Columbia—The Selkirk Range—The Columbia River—Summit of the Selkirks—Major Rogers’ Discovery.Page 252
[CHAPTER XVI].
DOWN THE ILLE-CELLE-WAET.
The Descent of the Selkirk Range—Glaciers—The Last of our Horses—Devil’s Clubs—The Ille-celle-waet—A Rough Journey—A Mountain Storm—Slow Progress—A Roaring Torrent—Skunk Cabbage—Marsh—A Long Ten Miles’ Journey.Page 271
[CHAPTER XVII].
DOWN THE ILLE-CELLE-WAET.—Continued.
A Difficult March—Cariboo Path—Organization of Advance—Passing Through the Canyon—Timber Jam—A Gun-shot heard—The Columbia again—Indians—Disappointment—The Question of Supplies becomes Urgent—No Relief Party Found—Suspense.Page 284
[CHAPTER XVIII].
THROUGH THE EAGLE PASS.
The Kamloops Men at Last—No Supplies—On Short Allowance—An Indian Guide—Bog-wading—The Summit of the Pass—Bluff Lake—Victoria Bluff—Three Valley Lake—Eagle River—Shooting Salmon—The Cached Provisions—Pack-horses again—Road Making—The South Thompson—Indian Ranches.Page 295
[CHAPTER XIX].
KAMLOOPS TO THE COAST.
Lake Kamloops—Savona’s Ferry—Irrigation—Chinese Navvies—Chinese Servants—Lytton—The Fraser River Canyon—Old Engineering Friends—Sunday at Yale—Paddling Down the Fraser—An English Fog at New Westminster.Page 311
[CHAPTER XX].
ON PACIFIC WATERS.
New Westminster—Enormous Forest Trees—English Broom—Port Moody—Down Burrard Inlet—Sea Fog—Navigation by Echo—Straits of Georgia—The St. Juan Archipelago—Seamanship—Victoria.Page 329
[CHAPTER XXI].
BRITISH COLUMBIA.
Sir Francis Drake—Mears—Vancouver—Astor—Hudson’s Bay Company—Gold Discoveries—Climate—Timber—Fisheries—Minerals—Mountain Scenery.Page 340
[CHAPTER XXII].
HOME BY THE NORTHERN PACIFIC.
Puget Sound—The Columbia—Portland—Oregon and San Juan Disputes—Arid Country—Mountain Summits—The Yellowstone—The Missouri—The Red River—Chicago—Standard Time Meeting—The British Association—Home.Page 355
[CHAPTER XXIII].
THE INDIANS.
Indian Population—The Government Policy—Indian Instincts—The Hudson’s Bay Company—Fidelity and Truthfulness of Indians—Aptitude for Certain Pursuits—The Future of the Red Man.Page 380
[CHAPTER XXIV].
THE CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY.
Rapid Construction—Travelling Old and New—Beginning of Pacific Railway—Difficulties—Party Warfare—The Line North of Lake Superior—The United States Government—Mountain Passes—Soil and Climate—National Parks—Pacific Terminus.Page 394
[CHAPTER XXV].
CONCLUSION.
England and Canada—Old and New Colonial Systems—Political Exigencies—The High Commissioners—Lord Lorne’s Views—The Future—The French Element in Canada—Colonial Federation—The Larger Union.Page 420