HOME PURSUITS AND DOMESTIC ARTS.
Needle-work, Fancy-work—Preparations for Writing—Flowers—House Plants—Birds—Gold Fish, &c.
The first and best use of the needle is common or plain sewing. Every woman and girl should understand this art, the beginning of all arts, and the most indispensable to civilization.
It is unnecessary to dilate on the importance of common needlework, and to this female accomplishment, so universally necessary, we shall principally confine our directions.
626. Requisites for Sewing.—A neat work-box well supplied with all the implements required, including knife, scissors (of at least three sizes), needles and pins in sufficient variety, bodkins, thimbles, thread and cotton, bobbins, marking silks, black lead pencils, &c., should be provided, and be furnished with a lock and key, to prevent the contents being thrown into confusion by children or unauthorized intruders.
The lady, being thus provided, and having her materials, implements, &c., placed in order upon her work-table, to the edge of which it is an advantage to have a pincushion affixed by means of a screw—may commence her work, and proceed with it with pleasure to herself, and without annoyance to any visitor who may favor her with a call. We would recommend, wherever practicable, that the work-table should be made of cedar, and that the windows of the working parlor should open into a garden well supplied with odoriferous flowers and plants, the perfume of which will materially cheer the spirits of those especially, whose circumstances compel them to devote the greatest portion of their time to sedentary occupations. If these advantages cannot be obtained, at least the room should be well-ventilated, and furnished with a few cheerful plants, and a well-filled scent-jar. The beneficent Creator intended all his children, in whatever station of life they might be placed, to share in the common bounties of his providence; and when she, who works not for pleasure, but to obtain the means of subsistence, is compelled to seclude herself, for days or weeks together, from the cheering influence of exercise in the open air, it becomes both her duty, and that of those for whom she labors, to secure as much of these advantages, or of the best substitutes for them, as the circumstances of the case will admit.
EXPLANATION OF STITCHES.
627. Hemming.—Turn down the raw edge as evenly as possible. Flatten, and be careful, especially in turning down the corners. Hem from right to left; bring the point of the needle from the chest toward the right hand. Fasten the thread without a knot, and when you finish, sew several stitches close together, and cut off the thread.
628. Mantua-maker's Hem.—You lay the raw edge of one of your pieces a little below that of the other; the upper edge is then turned over the other twice, and felled down as strong as possible.
629. Sewing and Felling.—If you have selvages, join them together, and sew them firmly. If you have raw edges, turn down one of the edges once, and the other double the breadth, and then turn half of it back again. This is for the fell. The two pieces are pinned together, face to face, and seamed together—the stitches being in a slanting direction, and just deep enough to hold the separate pieces firmly together. Then flatten the seam with the thumb, turn the work over, and fell it the same as hemming. The thread is fastened by being worked between the pieces, and sewn over.
630. Running.—Take three threads, leave three, and, in order that the work may be kept as firm as possible, back-stitch occasionally. If you sew selvages, they must be joined evenly together; but if raw edges, one must be turned down once, and the other laid upon it, but a few threads from the top: in this case, it must be felled afterwards.
631. Stitching.—The work must be as even as possible. Turn down a piece to stitch to; draw a thread to stitch upon, twelve or fourteen threads from the edge. Being thus prepared, you take two threads back, and so bring the needle out from under two before. Proceed in this manner to the end of the row; and, in joining a fresh piece of thread, take care to pass the needle between the edges, and so bring it out where the last stitch is finished.
632. Gathering.—You begin by taking the article to be gathered, and dividing it into halves, and then into quarters, putting on pins to make the divisions. The piece to which you are intending to gather it, must be gathered about twelve threads from the top, taking three threads on the needle, and leaving four; and so proceeding alternately until one quarter is gathered. Fasten the thread by twisting it round a pin; stroke the gathers, so that they lie evenly and neatly, with a strong needle or pin. You then proceed as before, until all the gathers are gathered. Then take out the pins, and regulate the gathers of each quarter so as to correspond with those of the piece to which it is to be sewed. The gathers are then to be fastened on, one at a time; and the stitches must be in a slanting direction. The part to be gathered must be cut quite even before commencing, or else it will be impossible to make the gathering look well.
633. Double Gathering, or Puffing.—This is sometimes employed in setting on frills, and, when executed properly, has a pretty effect. You first gather the top in the usual way; then, having stroked down the gathers, you gather again under the first gathering, and of such a depth as you wish the puffing to be. You then sew on the first gathering to the gown, frock, &c., you design to trim, at a distance corresponding with the width of the puffing, and the second gathering sewed to the edge, so as to form a full hem. You may make a double hem, if you please, by gathering three times instead of only twice; and one of the hems may be straight, while the other is drawn to one side a little. This requires much exactness in the execution, but, if properly done, it gives a pleasing variety to the work.
634. German Hemming.—Turn down both the raw edges once, taking care so to do it as that both turns may be toward your person; you then lay one below the other, so as that the smooth edge of the nearest does not touch the other, but lies just beneath it. The lower one is then to be hemmed or felled to the piece against which you have laid it, still holding it before you. You are next to open your sleeve, or whatever else you have been employed upon, and, laying the upper fold over the lower, fell it down, and the work is done.
635. Binding.—Various kinds of work have binding set on to them, in preference to hemming them, or working them in herring-bone stitch. Flannel is generally bound, sometimes with a thin tape, made for the purpose, and called "flannel binding." It is also common to bind flannel with sarcenet riband. The binding is so put on as to show but little over the edge on the right side, where it is hemmed down neatly; on the other side it is run on with small stitches.
636. Braiding.—Silk braid looks pretty, and is used for a variety of purposes. In putting it on, it is best to sew it with silk drawn out of the braid, as it is a better match, and the stitches will be less perceived.
637. Marking.—It is of essential importance that clothes should be marked and numbered. This is often done with ink; but as some, persons like to mark with silk, we shall describe the stitch. Two threads are to be taken each way of the cloth, and the needle must be passed three ways, in order that the stitch may be complete. The first is aslant from the person, toward the right hand; the second is downward toward you; and the third is the reverse of the first—that is, aslant from you, toward the left hand. The needle is to be brought out at the corner of the stitch nearest to that you are about to make. The shapes of the letters or figures can be learned from an inspection of any common sampler.
638. Piping.—This is much used in ornamenting children's and other dresses. It is made by enclosing a card of the proper thickness in a strip of silk cut crosswise, and must be put on as evenly as possible.
639. Plaiting.—The plaits must be as even as it is possible to place them one against another. In double plaiting, they lie both ways, and meet in the middle.
640. To keep Thread, Sewing-silk, &c.—In making up linen, thread is much preferable to cotton. Sewing-silk should be folded up neatly in wash-leather, and colored threads and cotton in paper, as the air and light are likely to injure them. Buttons, hooks and eyes, and all metal implements, when not in use, should be kept folded up, as exposure to the air not only tarnishes them, but is likely to injure them in a variety of ways.
INSTRUCTIONS IN THE PREPARATION OF HOUSE-LINEN.
641. Bedroom Linen.—This includes quilts, blankets, sheets, pillow-covers, towels, table-covers and pincushion-covers.
642. Quilts.—These are of various sizes and qualities, in accordance with the purposes to which they are applied. They are generally made of the outside material and the lining—wadding or flannel being laid between—and stitched in diamonds or other devices. The stitches must pass through the whole, and the edges of the quilt are to be secured by a braiding or binding proper for the purpose. They are best done in a frame.
643. Blankets.—These are generally bought, ready-prepared for use. It is sometimes necessary to work over the edges at the end, which should be done with scarlet worsted, in a very wide kind of button-hole stitch.
644. Sheets.—These are made of fine linen, coarse linen, and cotton-sheeting. Linen sheets are best for summer, and many prefer them at all seasons. If the sheeting is not sufficiently wide for the bed, two lengths must be sewed together. The seam up the middle must be sewed as neatly as possible, and the ends may be either hemmed or seamed: the latter is the preferable method. Sheets and all bedroom linen should be marked and numbered; to add the date of the year is also an advantage.
645. Pillow-cases.—These are made of fine or coarse linen, and sometimes of cotton cloth. The material should be of such a width as to correspond with the length of the pillow. One yard and three nails, doubled and seamed up, is the proper size. One end is seamed up, and the other hemmed with a broad hem, and furnished with strings or buttons as is deemed most convenient. We think the preferable way of making pillow covers is to procure a material of a sufficient width, when doubled, to admit the pillow. The selvages are then sewed together, and the ends seamed and hemmed as before directed. Bolster covers are made in nearly the same manner, only that a round patch is let into one end, and a tape for a slot is run into the other.
646. Towels.—Towels are made of diaper or huckaback, of a quality adapted to the uses to which they are applicable. They should be one yard long and about ten or twelve nails wide. The best are bought single, and are fringed at the ends. Others are neatly hemmed, and sometimes have a tape-loop attached to them, by which they can be suspended against a wall.
647. Dressing Table Covers.—These may be made of any material that is proper for the purpose. Fine diaper generally, but sometimes dimity and muslin are employed, or the table is covered with a kind of Marseilles quilting, which is prepared expressly for the purpose. Sometimes the covers are merely hemmed round, but they look much neater if fringed, or bordered with a moderately full frill. Sometimes a worked border is set on. All depends upon taste and fancy. A neat and genteel appearance, in accordance with the furniture of the apartment, should be especially regarded.
648. Pincushion Covers.—A large pincushion, having two covers belonging to it, should belong to each toilet table. The covers are merely a bag into which the cushion is slipped. They may be either worked or plain; always of white muslin or linen cambric; and should have small tassels at each corner, and a frill or fringe all round.
649. Table Linen.—This department of plain needlework comprises table-cloths, dinner-napkins, and large and small tray napkins.
650. Table-cloths.—These may be purchased either singly, or cut from the piece. In the latter case the ends should be hemmed as neatly as possible, and marked and numbered.
651. Dinner Napkins.—These are of various materials; if cut from the piece, they must be hemmed at the ends the same as table-cloths. Large and small tray napkins and knife-box cloths, are made in the same manner. The hemming of all these should be extremely neat. It is a pretty and light employment for very young ladies; little girls even should do this work, and thus early acquire habits of neatness and usefulness, which will prove useful in after life.
652. Housemaid and Kitchen Linen.—In the housemaid's department, paint cloths, old and soft, and chamber bottle cloths, fine and soft, are to be provided. To these must be added dusters, flannels for scouring, chamber bucket-cloths, which last should be of a kind and color different from everything else. All these must be neatly hemmed and run, or seamed if necessary. Nothing, in a well-directed family, should bear the impress of neglect, or be suffered to assume an untidy appearance.
653. Clothes-bags.—Clothes-bags of different sizes should also be provided, of two yards in length, and either one breadth doubled, in which case only one seam will be required, or of two breadths, which makes the bags more suitable for large articles of clothing. These bags are to be seamed up neatly at the bottom, and to have strings which will draw run in at the top. The best material is canvas, or strong unbleached linen. In the kitchen department, you will require both table and dresser cloths, which should be made as neat as possible.
654. Mending.—In cutting up an old garment, it is a great advantage to have a portion of the same material new. For this reason, when purchasing cloth for a new garment, buy a little additional quantity for repairs, and take care that it is kept for that purpose, and not wasted in any way.
It was formerly the custom with all careful women, when buying a dress, to buy an extra yard for new sleeving. To be sure a gown was then more expensive than now; but it should be remembered, that if six gowns can be bought for the money that used to buy three or four, they cannot be made up in the same time at home, nor for the same money if put out. Any tolerably handy woman, though she may not choose to venture upon cutting out and making a new dress, may repair one, having the old pattern and lining to work by, and the very creases and stitches for a guide. If, by so doing, a gown will wear half as long again, the price of a little over-quantity at first, and a few hours employed on the work, are well bestowed.
The same remark applies to the garments of men. Unless these be bought ready-made, the pieces should be carefully laid by for repairs. In children's clothing, these alterations and repairs are often needed.
655. Patchwork.—Many improvements may be made in patchwork that most of us have been accustomed to see for years. It is a kind of needlework very interesting for little girls; and old ladies frequently resort to this for amusement by their cosy firesides, during the long winter evenings, when tired of reading.
656. Of the Materials.—The materials necessary for patchwork are such portions of wearing apparel, whether cloth, calico, linen, holland, silk, velvet, cotton, &c., such as would otherwise be thrown away, or saved for the rag-man. No matter how small the portion, every scrap has its use. The next necessary article is some stiff paper—old envelopes, backs of letters, brown paper, &c., to form the shapes; lastly, the design—shapes, cut out in tin, and the designs themselves.
The materials should be arranged into shades and qualities. After having been cut to required sizes, and the irregularities of the edges neatly repaired, they are ready for use.
657. Patterns.—The patterns may be varied ad infinitum, if the person possesses the least talent for drawing; but for the sake of those who may not be able to do this, we submit the following simple and effective designs to be executed in any of the materials.
658. To make the Patchwork.—The pattern should be placed before the person, and the shades being selected, the several pieces arranged so as to form the design, and the edges then neatly sewed together; after which they are either pressed, or ironed, the papers removed, and the lining proceeded with.
When silks and velvets are employed, it improves the effect to combine the two, taking the silk for the lighter, and the velvet for the darker shades; or, as in figures 5, 6, 8, and 11, to have silk for the lighter shades, and two velvets for the others, shaded to pattern.
A very pretty effect is produced by combining Holland and calico, silk and satin, silk or satin and velvet, and rough and fine cloth.
The various articles that may be manufactured, are quilts in colored and white calico; anti-macassars in silks; ottomans in silks and velvets, silks and cloth; table-covers in silks and cloth; cushions for chairs or sofas, in silks; and mats, rugs, and carpets, in cloth.
We have seen many useful white quilts for children's cots, made from the cuttings remaining after shirt making. The centre might be of Holland and calico, pattern 10, fig. 5, and then fig. 7, with a fringe border, knitted. Numerous rugs might be made in colored cloths, to look equal to carpets, for poor people, and wear much better.
AN ELEGANT MUSNUD FOR A SOFA.
659. The materials required, consist of braid of various hues, purse-silk of different shades, bed-ticking, feathers, down, horse-hair, or worsted ends; the design-shapes, some cord for pipings, the various colored cloths, silks, &c., and a curtain-ring or a piece of cardboard for the centre.
The size varies from fifteen to eighteen inches in diameter, according to taste.
The colors cannot be fixed, because it depends much upon taste, but we have made the elegant musnud given [p. 160], by placing cobalt as the right hand centre-piece, then (proceeding from right to left) white, salmon, purple, crimson, amber, pea-green, and madder-brown. The handles are amber, the side brown, and the back purple.
It is better, in combining or arranging all colors for patchwork, to keep as near as possible to the harmony observed by Nature; therefore, to attend to the same order displayed in the case of a refracted ray of light, viz., violet, indigo, blue, green, yellow, orange, and red, adding, in this case, white, to represent the ray in its natural state before refraction or dispersion of its colors took place.
To make the Musnud.—Cut two circles of fifteen or eighteen inches in diameter in bed-ticking, and a strip of the same material three inches deep, and thrice the length of the diameter; make into the usual shape, and stuff with feathers, down, horse-hair, or the refuse ends of worsted. Cut out two handles as in the design, of the same material, and sew them on. Rub the inside of the bed-ticking with a lump of bees'-wax previous to making up the musnud, (as it prevents the feathers and dust working through,) and tack the centre down.
Cut out the back in a piece of purple moreen, or any other material, then cut four strips of brown cashmere, each three inches deep and five long, join these neatly together to form the side, and braid the following design in bright yellow on it, finishing the veining of the leaves in chain-stitch with purse silk.
The wedge-shaped pieces should now be cut out in the various colored cloths, &c., and braided as in the design, four being braided with floral, and four with fancy designs. Each piece should measure nine inches in length and six inches and three-quarters in breadth at the outer part. The centre piece should measure two inches and a quarter in diameter, be of a dark brown, and braided with a bright yellow star.
To cover the musnud, sew the pieces neatly together, and cover the joining with narrow strips of dark brown cloth, braided in bright yellow to resemble a chain; cover the curtain ring, or circular piece of card-board, with the central piece, and sew it on.
Now affix the pipings cut crossways out of brown cloth, and cover the handles with amber-colored material, braid and pipe them; join the back to the side with an intervening piping, slip the musnud into the lower covering, and sew on the top.
In braiding the patterns, the purple ground should have a scarlet braid.
The brown, yellow.
In finishing the braiding, it will require the occasional aid of some chain-stitch work in purse-silk, for the veinings of the leaves, stamens, tendrils, &c.
Note.—This particularity in arranging colors and patterns may seem very trifling to some people; but rules are required in all finished work. Habits of attention are an important part of education, or, rather, are indispensable to a well-trained mind. Therefore, we say, be particular to do all you undertake in a proper manner; and if you are making patchwork, aim at perfection of its kind. But never fall in love with your own creations, and worship them as idols; and never neglect common household duties for fanciful needlework. Remember, also, that reading is more refining to the taste than finger-work; and that to read well is a much higher accomplishment than any mere skill in counting stitches and matching shades.
FOR SILK EMBROIDERY.
660. Useful Patterns for working in Cord, Silk, and Muslin.—These are what are called "endless patterns," to be worked in cord.
These fashions for embroidering the borders of cloaks, pelisses, sacques, &c., on merino, or fine cassimere, or flannel, with silk, are to be wrought with coarse or fine silk, or with a mixture of the two, according to the degree of intricacy or simplicity in the parts of the pattern.
We give two designs; from these, other combinations may be made, to suit the fancy of the embroiderer.
SILK EMBROIDERY, ANOTHER WAY.
See [p. 164.]
661.—In these patterns for embroidering the borders of cloaks, pelisses, sacques, &c., on merino, or fine cassimere, or flannel, with silk, are to be wrought with coarse or fine silk, or with a mixture of the two, according to the degree of intricacy or simplicity in the parts of the pattern.
These patterns are equally serviceable for muslin, or any other material.
No. 1, to be worked on fine flannel or merino, with a mixture of coarse and fine silk.
No. 2, to be worked on flannel or merino, with fine silk.
No. 1. No. 2.
662. Sewing on glazed Calico.—By passing a cake of white soap a few times over a piece of glazed calico, or any other stiffened material, the needle will penetrate as easily as through any other kind of work.
663. To make Glass Jars to look like China.—Paint figures to resemble those in China jars, and cut them out so that none of the white paper remains; then, with thick gum-arabic water, fasten them to the inside of the glass. Let them stand to dry for twenty-four hours. Then wipe off with a wet cloth the gum-arabic on the glass between the prints, and let them stand a few hours longer. Then take white wax and flake white, ground very fine, and melt them together. With a japanning-brush go over all the glass above the prints: done in this manner, they will hold water. For a blue ground, use white wax and Prussian blue, ground fine; for red, wax and vermilion, or carmine; for green, wax and verdigris; for chocolate, wax and burnt umber.
664. To give Plaster Figures the appearance of Marble.—Put into a well-glazed earthen vessel, four pounds of clear water and one ounce of pure curd soap, grated; add one ounce of white bees'-wax, cut into thin slices. Let them dissolve over a slow fire. As soon as the whole is incorporated, it is fit for use. Let the figure be thoroughly dried, then suspend it by a twine, and dip it once into the varnish; upon taking it out, the varnish will appear to have been absorbed; in two minutes' time, stir the compost, and dip it a second time, which is generally sufficient. Cover it carefully from the dust for a week; then, with a soft muslin rag, rub the figure gently, when a most brilliant gloss will be produced.
665. To improve Plaster Casts.—Brush them over with size, and, when dry, varnish them with copal varnish.
666. To dissolve Putty.—To remove old putty from glazed frames, brush over it pearlash and slaked stone-burnt lime, mixed to the thickness of paint.
ANGLO-JAPANESE WORK.
667. This elegant and most useful work is very easy in its execution, while the means and appliances for its performance are within the reach of every one. The materials are simply yellow withered leaves, a little dissolved gum, black paint, and copal varnish: while the objects to be ornamented may be a box, cupboard, table, &c., in fact, any old furniture that has been rendered unsightly by age or long use. A plain deal box, costing about a shilling, may by this process, so far as the outside goes, be converted into a costly-looking dressing-case. An exquisite chess-board may be made, with very little skill, from a square piece of deal. Flower-pots, pole-screens, folding and hand-screens, may all be decorated in this manner, and, from untidy-looking lumber, may be converted into articles of use, elegance, and beauty; and this at a merely nominal expense, taste being the chief requisite in the production. The employment forms one of the most agreeable and pleasing amusements for summer days and winter evenings; in the summer, giving a purpose and an aim to many a joyous ramble, for in these desultory walks a goodly collection may be made of Nature's ambered jewels.
All leaves that are small, of uneven shape, and serrated at the edges, are well adapted for this work. As they are collected, they should be placed between sheets of paper, but not close together, then pressed by placing a board on the top, with a weight upon it, to express any moisture that may be therein, and to render them quite flat. In the autumn, the sweet-scented geranium-leaves, the maple, thorn, chrysanthemum, wild parsley, fern, and a multitude of others, may be found, including the smaller sycamore and small vine-leaves; but they must all have turned of a golden hue, or reddish-tinted yellow. Prepare the article to be ornamented, thus:—First rub the surface smoothly down with sand-paper; then coat it over with black paint, which can be procured, ready-mixed, at any oil-shop; when dry, rub it down smoothly with pumice-stone, and give two more coats. When these are dry, arrange the leaves on the surface in a careless manner, but not in groups, unless preferred. Butterflies drawn, and colored yellow with gamboge, or cut out of prints, and then colored, may be stuck at different spaces with advantage; but there should be no other color than the brown and different tints of yellow in the leaves. Gum the wrong side of the leaf, and press it on in its appointed place with a hard tuft of wadding, fastened tightly up in a piece of silk. Continue this with the whole of the leaves; and when they are all gummed on, dissolve some gelatine or isinglass in warm water, and while rather warm, brush it well over every portion of the work, using the brush entirely one way, not forward and back. When dry, give the work three coats of the best copal varnish, letting the article remain a day or two between each coat. This process, though elaborate in detail, is easily and even quickly done, and will well repay any trouble that may be taken, as, with a renewed coat of varnish every five or six years, it will remain, as long as the wood will hold together, as bright in appearance as when first finished.
668. Sealing Wax Varnish.—For fancy work, this has, of late years, been much used, and if well applied, and the wax good, will be a very good imitation of India Japan. The method of making the varnish or japan is very easy, being simply reducing the wax to a coarse powder, and pouring the best spirits of wine on it in a bottle, and letting it gradually dissolve without heat, shaking the bottle occasionally till it is all dissolved. A two-ounce stick of the best wax will be enough for a quarter of a pint of spirits. Recollect that much depends on the goodness of the sealing-wax; and that you may vary the color of the varnish by using different colored wax. As this varnish dries very quickly, it should not be made until it is wanted for use.
669. Method of preparing the Composition used for Colored Drawings and Prints, so as to make them resemble Paint in Oil.—Take of Canada Balsam, one ounce; spirit of turpentine, two ounces; mix them together. Before this composition is applied, the drawing or print should be sized with a solution of isinglass in water, and when dry, apply the varnish with a camel-hair brush.
670. Oil and Water Gilding.—In oil gilding, the frame is first covered with a composition of whiting and parchment size, then with a coating of "oil gold size," (a kind of varnish,) upon which when nearly dry, gold leaf is applied.
671. In Water Gilding, a size mixed with water is used. Parts of the frame are burnished, other parts left dead. This is the most beautiful and expensive style of gilding, but it does not bear washing as oil gilding does.
["The Carver and Gilder," published by Knight, furnishes much useful information on this subject.]
672. To mount Prints or Maps.—Upon a table, floor, or board, stretch a piece of calico or smooth canvas, by first fixing it with tacks along one side, then straining it tightly with one hand, and driving the tacks with the other: nail the remaining edges, leaving no wrinkles on the surface. Paste the back of the print or map, fold it together, and let it remain until the paper is soaked, then open it, and place it evenly on the canvas, cover it with a sheet of clean paper, and beginning in the middle, rub it down carefully with the hand, going from the centre all round to the edges, until all the air is excluded, and the paper adheres closely to the canvas. When quite dry, with a large camel-hair brush lay on a coating of parchment size, repeating this when dry: then varnish with mastic varnish. Parchment size is made by boiling parchment cuttings in water, until it forms a jelly when cold. Mastic varnish may be procured at oil and color-shops.
673. New Camera Lucida.—Sir John Robinson devised, a few years since, a cheap and easily-used camera lucida, applicable to the delineation of flowers and other small objects. A piece of plate glass is made to stand in a vertical position by means of a support. It rests on a table covered with white paper, and the object is placed on the paper on one side of the glass. On looking down from that side of the glass diagonally, an image of the object is seen on the paper on the other side, and a drawing of it can be readily taken.
674. Varnish for Oil Pictures.—According to the number of your pictures, take the whites of the same number of eggs, and an equal number of pieces of sugar-candy, the size of a hazel-nut, dissolved, and mix it with a tea-spoonful of brandy; beat the whites of your eggs to a froth, and let it settle; take the clear, put it to your brandy and sugar, mix them well together, and varnish over your pictures with it.
This is much better than any other varnish, as it is easily washed off when your pictures want cleaning again.
675. To take Impressions of Butterflies' Wings.—Lay the wings gently on paper, wet with gum arabic water, and nearly dry; a copy will be left when the wing is removed, but inferior in beauty to the wing itself. It is better to gum the wings themselves on paper, and paint the body of the fly in its natural position.
676. To preserve the Eggs of Birds.—First clean them of their contents. This may be done with the larger eggs by making a hole on one side large enough to admit a quill, and shaking out the contents. Then wash them well with a solution of camphor, not too strong, or it will make them brittle. When dry, fasten them with gum on the side in which the hole was made to a piece of card board, and write the name under each. As the colors of many of them are perishable, to preserve them give them a slight coating of varnish. The best varnish for this purpose is isinglass dissolved in gin. In cleaning the smaller eggs, make a hole at each end, a little to one side, and blow them. The camphor solution need not be used.
677. To make Artificial Coral.—Melt together four parts of yellow resin and one part of vermilion. Dip twigs, cinders or stones in this, and when dry they will resemble coral.
678. An Excellent Pen-Wiper for Steel Pens.—Fill a short, wide-mouthed vial with shot, the smaller the better. Whenever it is necessary to clean the pen, rub it up and down in the shot. This is much more effectual than cloth wipers, and the shot will last a life-time.
679. To preserve Steel Pens.—Metallic pens may be preserved from rusting by throwing into the bottle containing the ink a few nails, or broken pieces of steel pens, if not varnished. The corrosive action of the acid which the ink contains is expended on the iron so introduced, and will not therefore affect the pen.
680. Black Paper for drawing Patterns.—Mix and smooth lamp-black and sweet oil; with a bit of flannel cover a sheet or two of large writing-paper with this mixture; then dab the paper dry with a bit of fine linen, and keep it by for using in the following manner:—Put the black side on another sheet of paper, and fasten the corners together with small pins. Lay on the back of the black paper the pattern to be drawn, and go over it with the point of a steel pencil; the black paper will then leave the impression of the pattern on the under sheet, on which you must draw it with ink.
If you draw patterns on cloth or muslin, do it with a pen dipped in a bit of stone blue, a bit of sugar, and a little water, mixed smooth in a teacup, in which it will be always ready for use, if fresh: wet to a due consistence as wanted.
681. To make Transparent Paper for Drawing.—Tracing paper is readily made by taking a sheet of very thin silk, or other paper, and rubbing it over gently with some soft substance, filled with a mixture of equal parts of drying oil, and oil of turpentine, which, being suspended and dried, will be fit for use in a few days; or it may be had at any of the shops. Lay this transparent material on the print or drawing to be transferred, and, with a sharp black lead pencil, trace the outlines exactly as they appear through the paper. If more permanent or stronger lines are wished, ink mixed with ox-gall will be necessary to make it adhere to the oiled surface.
682. Transparent Paper.—Wet some fine paper with a feather on both sides with a thin layer of rosin, dissolved in spirits of wine. It will then serve to put over anything you wish to take off.
683. Method of using Tracing Paper.—Take a piece of the size required, and rub it equally over, on one side, with black lead, reduced to a powder, till the surface will not readily soil a finger; then lay a piece of white paper with the leaded side of this paper next to it, under the print, and securing them firmly together with pins at the corners, proceed to take the outlines with a blunt point, and some degree of pressure, which will transfer the lead to the clean paper precisely in the direction the point passed over the print; this may be corrected with the black lead pencil, and cleansed of any soil by the crumbs of stale bread.
684. Method of setting Pencil Drawings.—A solution of alum water, in which the drawing is to be dipped (not washed on with a brush, as it would smear) will answer the purpose extremely well.
685. Wash for preserving Drawings made with Black Lead Pencil, or with hard Black Chalk.—A thin wash of isinglass will fix either black lead or hard black chalk, &c., so as to prevent their rubbing out; or the same effect may be produced by the simple application of skimmed milk. The best way of using the latter, is, to lay the drawing flat upon the surface of the milk, and then, taking it up expeditiously, to hang it by the one corner till it drains and dries. The milk must be perfectly free from cream, or it will grease the paper.
686. To make Red Sealing Wax.—To every ounce of shell-lac take half an ounce each of resin and vermilion, all reduced to a fine powder. Melt them over a moderate fire; and when thoroughly incorporated and sufficiently cool, form the composition into what are called sticks. On account of the dearness of shell-lac, seed-lac is usually substituted. A more ordinary sort, but sufficiently good for most occasions, may be made by mixing equal parts of resin and shell-lac with two parts of red lead and one of vermilion. In a still commoner sort, the vermilion is often entirely omitted.
MARKING INK.
687. Mix in six drachms of distilled water, two drachms of sub-nitrate of silver, and two drachms of gum-arabic. For the mordant, mix with four ounces of water, half an ounce of gum-arabic, and half an ounce of sub-carbonate of soda. The article to be marked should first be wetted with the mordant, and pressed smooth, and should be thoroughly dried before it is written upon. The mark should be exposed to the light for some time, to become black.
688. Permanent Red Ink for marking Linen.—This useful preparation, which was contrived by Dr. Smellie, of Edinburgh, who was originally a printer in that city, may be used either with types, a hair pencil, or even with a pen: Take half an ounce of vermillion, and a drachm of salt of steel; let them be finely levigated with linseed oil, to the thickness or limpidity required for the occasion. This has not only a very good appearance, but will, it is said, be found perfectly to resist the effects of acids, as well as of all alkaline leys. It may be made of other colors, by substituting the proper articles instead of vermillion.
689. An Indelible Ink for marking Linen.—Pour a little aqua-fortis into a cup, and add to it a small piece of pure silver; when the effervescence ceases, filter the solution through a piece of blotting-paper, and put it into a small phial; then add to it a little gum-arabic and a little of the paint, called sap-green. After the whole is perfectly combined it is then fit for use.
690. To take out Writing.—When recently written, ink may be completely removed by the oxymuriatic acid (concentrated and in solution). The paper is to be washed over repeatedly with the acid; but it will be necessary afterwards to wash it also with lime-water, for the purpose of neutralizing any acid that may be left on the paper, and which would considerably weaken it. But if the ink have been long written, it will have undergone such a change as to prevent the preceding process from taking effect. It ought therefore to be washed with liver of sulphur (sulphuret of ammonia), before the oxymuriatic acid is applied. It may be washed with a hair pencil.
691. To make Old Writing legible.—Take six bruised gall-nuts, and put them to a pint of strong white wine; let it stand in the sun for forty-eight hours. Dip a brush in it and wash the writing, and by the color you will discover whether the mixture is strong enough of the galls.
692. Sympathetic Ink.—With a clean pen write on paper with a solution of muriate of cobalt, so diluted with water, that the writing when dry will be invisible. On gently warming the paper, the writing will appear of a blue or greenish color, which will disappear again when cool. A solution of muriate of copper forms a yellow and sympathetic ink, and acetate of cobalt a rose or purple. If a landscape be drawn representing a winter scene, the paper being overlaid where the foliage should be with the green sympathetic ink, then, on gently warming the drawing, it will represent summer. Sky and water may be drawn with the blue, and standing corn with the yellow ink.
693. Blue Ink.—Dissolve a small quantity of indigo in a little oil of vitriol, and add a sufficient quantity of water, in which gum-arabic has been dissolved.
694. Yellow Ink.—Dissolve gamboge in a solution of gum-arabic.
695. Scarlet Ink.—Dissolve vermilion in a solution of gum-arabic.
696. Red Ink.—Boil one ounce of Brazil wood in half-a-pint of water for a quarter of an hour; add to the decoction three drachms of gum-arabic, and an ounce of alum.
697. Green Ink.—Verdigris, two ounces; cream of tartar, one ounce; water, half a pint; boil till reduced to one half, and filter.
698. Excellent Writing Ink.—Boil eight ounces of galls in coarse powder, and four ounces of logwood in thin chips, in twelve pints of rain water, for one hour: strain the liquor, and add four ounces of green copperas, three ounces of powdered gum-arabic, one ounce of blue vitriol, and one ounce of rock candy, powdered; stir the mixture until the whole be dissolved, then let it subside twenty-four hours; decant it very steadily, and put it into stone bottles for use.
A clove kept in it will prevent it from becoming mouldy.
699. Black Ink.—To make one gallon, take of pounded blue nutgalls one pound; copperas, six ounces; gum common, four ounces; soft water, one gallon. Dissolve the gum separately by the fire, and add, after it has boiled a quarter of an hour. Let the ink be boiled over a slow fire three-quarters of an hour.
700. To make Ink.—To four ounces of bruised galls, allow two of copperas and two of gum-arabic; put the galls into a large bottle, with three pints of rain water; and, in three or four days, dissolve the gum in hot water, and add it with the copperas. Shake the bottle frequently for some days. A few cloves may be put into the bottle, to prevent the ink from moulding.
701. Ink Powder.—Take five ounces of the cleanest nutgalls, bruise them, and sift the powder very fine; then add one ounce of white copperas, two ounces of Roman vitriol, gum-arabic, half an ounce; pound and sift them very fine. An ounce of this powder will make a pint of very black ink.
702. To prevent Ink from moulding.—Half-a-dozen cloves, bruised with gum-arabic, are to be put into the bottle. If a very fine ink is wanted, white wine, or vinegar and water, should be used, instead of water alone.
703. To make Indian Ink.—Put six lighted wicks into a dish of oil; hang an iron or tin concave cover over it, so as to receive all the smoke; when there is a sufficient quantity of soot settled to the cover, then take it off gently with a feather upon a sheet of paper, and mix it up with gum-tragacanth to a proper consistence.
N. B. The clearest oil makes the finest soot, consequently the best ink.
704. Indian Ink.—Take horse-beans, burn them till they are perfectly black, grind them to a fine powder, and, with weak gum-arabic water make it into a paste, and form it into long square cakes.
705. To make China Ink.—Take dried black horse-beans, burn them to a powder, mix them up with gum-arabic water, and bring them to a mass; press it well, and let it dry.
MANAGEMENT OF CANARY-BIRDS.
706. Canary-birds, that are kept tame, will breed three or four times in the year. Towards the middle of March, begin to match your birds, putting one cock and hen into the breeding-cage, which should be large, so that the birds may have room to fly and exercise themselves. Place two boxes or little basket-nests in the cage, for the hen to lay her eggs in, because she will sometimes have a second brood before the first are fit to fly, leaving the care of them to the father-bird, who feeds and brings them up with much care, while she is sitting on her second nest of eggs. Whilst your birds are pairing, feed them, besides the usual seeds, with the yolks of hard-boiled eggs, bread that has been moistened, or, if hard, grated fine, and pounded almond-meat. When the young birds are to be fed, give the same soft food, and be sure have it fresh every day; also furnish the old birds with fresh greens, such as cabbage-lettuce, chick weed, groundsel, &c. Give fresh water every day, and a clean bath every morning. The hen lays, commonly, four or five eggs, and sits fourteen days. When the young are hatched, leave them to the care of the old birds, to nurse and bring up till they can fly and feed themselves, which is, usually, in about twenty days.
707. Gold and Silver Fish.—Pure rain-water is best to keep these delicate little creatures in; they should never be put into water that has been boiled. It is a good plan to throw them in the morning into a large bowl of fresh water, with a few bread-crumbs in it, and let them remain there an hour. Then put them in pure fresh water in their vases. The water should be changed every day. If the bread remains in the water to become sour, it will kill the fish.
708. Improvement in the management of Bees.—The improvement is that of having double skeps or hives, the one on the top of the other. When the lower skep is filled with honey, it is to be removed after the bees are admitted (through a passage which is made to be opened) into the upper skep; into this skep food must be put, and the bees will remain there, and go on with their work in it. When it is filled with honey, the former skep, with food in it, may be replaced, and the bees again admitted into it. The full skep is then to be taken away. This change of the skeps must always be made about midsummer; and by thus annually removing the full one, more honey will be collected than is usual, and the bees will not be destroyed.
709. To preserve Flowers in Water.—Mix a little carbonate of soda with the water, and it will preserve the flowers for a fortnight. Common saltpetre is also a good preservative.
710. To preserve Flowers in Winter.—Take the latest buds just as they are ready to open; cut them off, leaving the stem about three inches long; cover the end of the stem with melted sealing-wax, and when the buds are a little withered, wrap them separately in paper, and place them in a dry box. When you wish to have the buds blossom, cut off the sealed end, and put them into water in which a little saltpetre has been dissolved. In twelve hours the buds will be open.
711. To take Impressions of Leaves.—Dissolve in a saucerful of water about a tea-spoonful of bichromate of potash. Pass the paper to be used through this solution, and, while wet, press the leaves lightly upon it, and expose it to the sun when it is shining brightly. When perfectly dry, remove the leaves, and a fac-simile will be left in a light lemon shade, while the rest of the paper will be of a dark brown.
712. To preserve the natural color in Petals of dried Flowers.—Immerse the petals for some minutes in alcohol. The colors will fade at first, but in a short time they will resume, permanently, their natural tint.
713. To revive faded Flowers.—Nearly all flowers may be revived, when faded, by placing one-third of the stalks in hot water; when it has become cold, the flowers will be re-set and fresh; the end of the stalks should then be cut off and the flowers put into cold water.
Or, dip flowers in spirits of wine for twenty minutes; at first they will appear to have entirely faded; but in drying, the colors will revive, and the fragrance be prolonged.
A few grains of salt put into the water with flowers, will keep them from fading.
Sand may be substituted for water.
Flowers may be preserved throughout the winter, if plucked when they are half-blown, dipped, stalks downward, in equal quantities of water and verjuice mixed, and sprinkled with bay salt. They should be kept in an earthenware vessel, closely covered, and in a warm place; when, in mid-winter, if the flowers be taken out, washed in cold water, and held before a gentle fire, they will open as if in their first bloom.
714. To paint Cloth, Cambric, Sarcenet, &c., so as to render them Transparent.—Grind to a fine powder three pounds of clear white resin, and put it into two pounds of good nut-oil, to which a strong drying quality has been given: set the mixture over a moderate fire, and keep stirring it till all the resin is dissolved; then put in two pounds of the best Venice turpentine, and keep stirring the whole well together; and if the cloth or cambric be thoroughly varnished on both sides with this mixture, it will be quite transparent. In this operation, the surface upon which the varnish is to be applied, must be stretched tight and made fast during the application. This mode of rendering cloth, &c. transparent, is excellently adapted for window-blinds. The varnish will likewise admit of any design in oil-colors being executed upon it as a transparency.
715. Varnish to prevent the rays of the Sun from passing through the glasses of Windows.—Pulverize gum-tragacanth, and put it to dissolve for twenty-four hours in whites of eggs, well beaten. Lay a coat of this on the panes of your windows, with a soft brush, and let it dry.
716. To stain paper or parchment Yellow.—Paper may be stained of a beautiful yellow, by the tincture of turmeric, formed by infusing an ounce or more of the root, powdered, in a pint of spirit of wine. This, by the addition of water, may be made to give any tint of yellow, from the lightest straw to the full color called French yellow, and will be equal in brightness even to the best dyed silks. If yellow is wanted of a warmer or redder cast, anotta, or dragon's blood, must be added to the tincture.
717. To stain paper or parchment Crimson.—A very fine crimson stain may be given to paper, by a tincture of the Indian lake, which may be made by infusing the lake some days in spirit of wine, and then pouring off the tincture from the dregs.
718. To stain paper or parchment Green.—Paper or parchment may be stained green by the solution of verdigris in vinegar, or by the crystals of verdigris dissolved in water; also by the solution of copper in aquafortis, made by adding filings of copper, gradually, to the aquafortis, till no ebullition ensues; or, the spirit of salt may be substituted for the aquafortis.
HOUSE-PLANTS.
719. Plants require much light and fresh air; a light garret is an excellent place for them; even those which will not bear the outer air, must have the air of the room frequently freshened by ventilation, to preserve them in health. They should not stand in a draught of air. In frosty weather the windows should be kept close, and at night, the shutters. In sharp frost, instead of stirring out the fire, leave a little on retiring to rest, with a guard before it for security.
As a general rule, never water plants while the sun shines. The time should be in the evening, or early in the morning, unless it be confined to watering the roots, in which case transplanted plants, and others in a growing state, may be watered at any time; and, if they are shaded from the sun, they may also be watered over the tops.
The water, if taken from a well or cold spring, should be exposed one day to the sun, otherwise it will chill the plants. A small quantity only should be applied at a time, that it may have the effect of refreshing rain.
Rain water is the best for plants; next river water; hard spring water is the worst.
720. To air Plants, and ventilate Rooms wherein they are contained.—Plants should have air, every day in the year, to make them grow well; but this matter, in sitting-rooms, will not of course be regulated for their sakes, especially in the colder seasons. Wherever placed, however, some attention should be paid to airing and ventilating the rooms regularly, by opening the windows, and occasionally the doors, in order to excite a free circulation of air. This should be done to a certain extent every day, according to the state of the weather, except in the time of severe frost, when it would not be advisable to admit external air. But at such times, if bad weather be of long continuance, the rooms may be ventilated by means of the doors, and by exciting a current of air in the passages, or other parts of the house.
In very severe frost, or in a continuation of damp weather, moderate fires should be made for the sake of the plants, if placed in rooms not occupied. The window shutters should also be closed at night.
721. Hints to Lovers of Flowers.—A most beautiful and easily-attained show of evergreens may be had by a very simple plan, which has been found to answer remarkably well on a small scale. If geranium branches taken from luxuriant and healthy trees, just before the winter sets in, be cut as for slips, and immersed in soap-water, they will, after drooping for a few days, shed their leaves, put forth fresh ones; and continue in the finest vigor all the winter. By placing a number of bottles thus filled in a flower-basket, with moss to conceal the bottles, a show of evergreens is easily insured for the whole season. They require no fresh water.
722. Bulbous Roots.—The time to put bulbous roots, as the hyacinth, narcissus, and jonquil, into glasses filled with water, is from September to November, and the earliest will begin blooming about Christmas. The glasses should be blue, as that color best suits the roots; put in water enough to cover the bulb one third; let the water be soft, change it once a week, and put in a pinch of salt at each change. Keep the glasses in a moderately warm place, and near to the light.
They should have fresh water about once in ten days. The leaves should not be plucked off before they decay, or the root will be deprived of much of its natural nourishment. When they have decayed, the bulbs should be taken up, laid in the shade to dry, cleaned, and kept in sand in a dry place till wanted to replant. The offsets should be taken off, and planted according to size.
723. Geraniums.—The shrubby kinds are commonly increased by cuttings, which, if planted in June or July, and placed in the shade, will take root in five weeks. They are the most tender, and when placed out of doors, should be defended from strong winds, and be so placed as to enjoy the sun till eleven o'clock in the morning. As the shrubby kinds grow fast, so as to fill the pots with their roots, and push them through the opening at the bottom, they should be moved every two or three weeks in summer, and the fresh roots cut off. They should also be newly potted twice in the summer: once about a month after they are placed abroad, and again towards the end of August. When this is done, all the roots outside the earth should be pared off, and as much of the old earth removed as can be done without injuring the plants. They should then be planted in a larger pot; some fresh earth should first be laid at the bottom, and on that the plant should be placed, so that the old earth adhering to it may be about an inch below the rim of the pot; it should next be filled up, and the pot slightly shaken: the earth must then be gently pressed down at the top, leaving a little space for water to be given without running over the rim; finally, the plant should be liberally watered, and the stem fastened to a stake, to prevent the wind displacing the roots before they are newly fixed.
As the branches grow, and new leaves are formed at the top of them, the lower ones may die, and should be plucked off every week.
Geranium slips should be planted in May, June, or July, taking only the last year's shoots, from which the leaves must be stripped. When planted, give them water, and place them in the shade: when they have taken root, let them have the sun in the morning. The slips chosen for cutting should not be such as bear flowers; and they should be inserted about half their length in the earth.
Geraniums, except the shrubby kinds, require shelter from frost only, and should have free air admitted to them, when the weather is not very severe. In sultry weather, they should all be watered liberally every morning, except some few of a succulent nature, which must be watered sparingly; the latter may be known by plucking a leaf from them. Geraniums may be watered three times a week, when not frosty, in winter.
724. Artificial Mould for Plants.—Russian potash, one drachm; water, four ounces; one tea-spoonful of oil. Mix the whole well together. Seeds put in this mixture will grow for a time at least, as well as if planted in common soil.
725. To take Impressions of Plants.—Take half a sheet of fine paper, and cover the surface with sweet oil; let it stand a minute or two, then rub off the superficial oil, and hang the paper in the air; when almost dry, move the paper slowly over the flame of a candle or lamp, till it is perfectly black; lay on it the plant or leaf, place a piece of clean paper over, and rub it equally with the fingers for half a minute. Then place the plant on the paper or scrap-book where it is desired to have the impression, cover it with blotting paper, and, on repeating the rubbing, a representation of the plant will appear equal to the finest engraving. The same piece of black paper will serve for a number of impressions.
726. Another Process.—Burn a common cork till reduced to powder; mix with it a tea-spoonful of olive oil, making a thick paste. Paint the veiny side of the leaf with a camel-hair brush, and lay it, with the painted side down, on a piece of clean paper. Submit it to a strong and even pressure (it is best placed in a book and put under a weight,) for about fifteen minutes; remove the leaf carefully, and there will be an exact representation left. Very veiny leaves are best. These impressions are almost equal to engravings. Collections of them might be made interesting, by having narratives of rambles written under them, stating the features of the spot from which the leaves were gathered.
DIRECTIONS FOR WINDOW-PLANTS.
727. Through January and February.—The summer flowering-plants—such as geraniums, fuchsias, &c.—should be kept as nearly dormant as possible, allowing just enough water to prevent flagging, and all the light that can be spared from the more interesting division of winter-bloomers; of the latter class, such things as china-roses, cinerarias, hyacinths and other bulbs, will now be in an active state, some of them flowering, and others about to do so; these must be liberally treated with water. Mignonnette, however, must be excepted. Above everything, keep the leaves clean; they are few in number, and feeble in action, but they have yet an important function to perform; and, without they are kept as healthy as possible, the plant cannot begin a new growth with the vigor it is desirable it should possess. The pots should be occasionally scrubbed with clean water, but do not paint or otherwise fill up their pores, for air is as essential to the roots as to the foliage, and no inconsiderable quantity finds its way to them through the sides of a clean pot. With the same view, the surface of the soil should be frequently stirred; the process keeps it open, prevents the growth of moss and weeds, and imparts a better appearance. The water given should always be rather warmer than the atmosphere of the room; and rain-water, slightly heated, is the best.
728. March.—The whole of these plants will be benefited by re-potting. Geraniums and fuchsias delight in light rich earth; calceolarias (lady's slipper), roses, the chimney campanula, and others which grow as freely, should have a larger proportion of loam; whatever manure is added for either, must be thoroughly decayed. The pots should be perfectly clean, inside and out; take care to have each properly drained with pieces of slate or potsherds, in size and number proportionate to the pot; the larger ones require from one to three inches of this drainage. In removing the plants, take off the matted fibres with a knife; loosen the soil moderately, and, when in its place, press the new earth tightly round it; give a gentle watering, and keep them rather warm for a few days; afterwards they should have plenty of air on fine days, and water as they become dry. Station each where it may receive the direct light, and pay particular attention to keeping the leaves clean.
729. April.—On the attention given through this month, most of the success for the season will depend. The plants are now, or ought to be, in a very active growth, which must be encouraged by moderate and regular supplies of water and air. Pinch out the points of the growing shoots of such plants as are required to become bushy; this is commonly called "stopping," and, with such things as geraniums, fuchsias, myrtles, and others of similar habit, is very necessary. Cactuses must have a sunny position, and plenty of water. Mignonette in pots and boxes, will require thinning, so as to leave the plants about three inches apart. The several kinds of China roses form beautiful window ornaments, and occasion but little trouble: at this time they are coming rapidly into bloom. Look for and destroy insects of all sorts, every few days; they multiply so fast, that without constant attention, the plants are soon overrun. The leaves must be kept clear of dust, and the branches properly tied out to sticks, that the centre may receive its due share of light.
730. May.—As the influence of the advancing season and power of the sun begins to be felt, the management of window-plants becomes easier, and must be gradually changed from the careful nursing hitherto necessary, to a course of almost constant exposure that will render the plants robust and hardy.
731. June.—From this time till the middle of September, plants in pots may be placed out of doors; they are, in fact, better in the open air, than in the heated atmosphere of a room. Except in stormy seasons, they may stand out night and day, in some slightly-sheltered spot. As a precaution against the effects of strong sun-light, it is advisable to place the pots in which the plants grow, into others a size or two larger, and fill the space between them with moss; for many plants, having slender fibrous roots, are easily injured by the heat of the sun scorching them through the pot. Such as stand upon the ground, should have a thick layer of ashes spread for them, to prevent worms from creeping in. Wash their leaves frequently with clean water, and remove insects. When any portion of the collection is kept in-doors, a window facing the north or west is to be preferred, and plenty of air must be admitted. As soon as geraniums have done flowering, they should be cut down, re-potted, and the tops struck, to form plants for next year. This is a good time to propagate nearly all kinds of pot-plants; most of them strike with freedom on a warm border in sandy soil, covered with a glass, and kept moderately watered. Myrtles, and some other hard-wooded plants, may be struck by placing the cuttings, for about half their length, into a phial filled with water. Seeds must be sown in light earth, as soon as they are thoroughly ripe.
732. July.—Fuchsias, in a growing state, should receive a final potting: place them in large, perfectly clean pots, using a mixture of turfy loam and peat, or leaf mould; train the shoots, and water liberally. Geraniums that have done flowering, should also be re-potted; they require a lighter soil, such as one part turfy loam, two parts leaf mould, and the remainder sand: cut down the tops to within two or three joints of their base, and set the plants in a warm sheltered place, to induce them to grow again: the cuttings may be struck in a frame or hand-glass, and will form nice plants by next season. Cactuses should be kept in a sunny situation, and have plenty of water. Camellias which have made their season's growth, may be set out of doors, to ripen. China roses may be re-potted, if requisite, and are easily propagated now, in the same manner as geraniums. Separate and pot violets, for early spring-flowering; keep them and similar plants, as the cyclamen, &c., in the most shaded place out of doors. The whole tribe of lilies are handsome window-plants, and some of the dwarf Japan kinds peculiarly adapted for the purpose; they are just beginning to bloom, and should have plenty of air and water. The Chinese primrose may be sown in pots of light rich earth, and, if covered with a piece of glass, will vegetate quickly, and form nice plants by the autumn. Propagation of such plants as myrtles, sweet-scented verbena, or lemon plant, chimney campanulas, &c., is now easy, and should be attended to without loss of time. Water all the plants with regularity, and in quantities proportionate to their size and the state of the weather; but particularly keep the leaves clean, by frequent sprinklings of clean water and sponging. The essential points in the culture of every plant, is to allow the functions of both roots and leaves to be carried on in a proper manner—the first, by placing them in suitable soil, and the latter, by clearing them of all impurities.
733. August.—Needs only a continuance of the attention recommended last month. Let them have plenty of air, light, and water, with a slight protection from the mid-day sun; propagation may still be carried on successfully. Pot the bella-donna and Guernsey lilies, to flower in autumn; and the young plants of the Chinese primrose should be placed three or four together, in pots of light rich earth, and nursed, to forward their growth as far as possible.
734. September.—The geraniums cut down in July, will now be pushing forth a number of young shoots; these must be encouraged as much as possible, by keeping the plants in a sheltered place, and duly supplying them with moisture. When the shoots have grown two or three joints, they should be stopped by picking out the points, in order to render them bushy. The cuttings made at the same period will now be fit for potting; put each one separately into a small pot, and treat them as the older plants. Young plants of myrtles, and indeed all others that are properly rooted, should receive similar treatment. Cinerarias are among the most useful of spring-flowering plants, and if a few seedlings can be obtained now, they will make nice plants, with the treatment recommended for geraniums. Cyclamen, Guernsey, or Bella-donna lilies, and Lachenalias should be re-potted; the first and last are very handsome spring-flowering plants, and the lilies are exceedingly beautiful through October and November; all of them are of reasonable price, and well worth adding to the usual stock of window plants. Fill a few pots with fibrous loam, and sprinkle them over with mignonette, nemophila insignis, and intermediate stocks; leave the pots in the open air, and thin the plants to about three or four of the strongest, as soon as they can be handled. Pot off china primroses, putting one plant into each three-inch pot. Encourage the chrysanthemums in pots with alternate applications of manure water, repot the strongest, and allow them all plenty of room, or the leaves are liable to injury. Set all plants as they grow out of flower in the sun, to ripen their wood, but do not let them suffer from drought.
735. October.—The principal endeavor among this class of plants must now be directed towards getting them into a state of rest; water very cautiously, giving air whenever the weather will permit, and at all times let them enjoy whatever sunshine occurs, and uninterrupted light. Now that the respiring power of the leaves becomes lessened, it is most essential that every particle of dust be carefully removed; the surface of the soil in which they grow should be occasionally stirred, to keep it clean and porous, and even the outside of the pots should be washed, for the same end. If it be necessary to stand the pots in saucers, when the plants are watered, the waste which runs through should be regularly emptied away, as much mischief ensues from allowing the roots to remain in the water.
736. November.—The directions given last month must be closely observed throughout the remainder of the year. The great object being to keep the majority of the plants in a resting condition, that they may start the more vigorously on the return of genial weather. Winter, or early spring-flowering plants, such as violets, China primroses, cyclamen, and roses, are, however, to be excepted from this rule; they are now in an active state, and must be encouraged accordingly. As soon as hyacinths and other bulbs, placed in pots last month, have become pretty well rooted, they may be brought into the window, and being placed near the light, will grow rapidly; those in glasses should have the water changed once or twice a week. Chrysanthemums in pots require plenty of water while in bloom, and when their beauty declines, the plants should be taken to a warm part of the garden, or placed in a light shed, to complete their maturity.
737. December.—If the geraniums or other plants taken from the borders in autumn, exhibit signs of rottenness, remove the decaying parts, and dust the wounds with quick-lime or sulphur, keep them comparatively dry and as much exposed to the sun as possible; air is essential whenever it can be admitted. Remember previous directions regarding the employment of pans; they are a most fatal source of disease and death when left with water in them. Water sparingly, keep the leaves clean, and wait patiently. Flowering plants must still form the exception, as mentioned last month.
738. To manage a Watch.—First: Wind your watch as nearly as possible at the same hour every day. Secondly: Be careful that your key is in good condition, as there is much danger of injuring the machine when the key is worn or cracked; there are more mainsprings and chains broken through a jerk in winding, than from any other cause, which injury will, sooner or later, be the result, if the key be in bad order. Thirdly: As all metals contract by cold, and expand by heat, it must be manifest, that to keep the watch as nearly as possible at one temperature, is a necessary piece of attention. Fourthly: Keep the watch as constantly as possible in one position—that is, if it hangs by day, let it hang by night against something soft. Fifthly: the hands of a pocket-chronometer or duplex watch, should never be set backwards; in other watches this is a matter of no consequence. Sixthly: The glass should never be opened in watches that set and regulate at the back. One or two other directions more, it is of vital importance that you bear in mind. On regulating a watch, should it be fast, move the regulator a trifle towards the slow, and if going slow, do the reverse; you cannot move the regulator too slightly or too gently at a time, and the only inconvenience that can arise is, that you may have to perform the duty more than once. On the contrary, if you move the regulator too much at a time you will be as far, if not farther than ever, from attaining your object; so that you may repeat the movement until quite tired and disappointed—stoutly blaming both watch and watch-maker, while the fault is entirely your own. Again, you cannot be too careful in respect of the nature and condition of your watch-pocket; see that it be made of some material that is soft and pliant—such as wash-leather, which is the best; and, also, that there be no flue or nap that may be torn off when taking the watch out of the pocket. Cleanliness, too, is as needful here as in the key before winding; for if there be dust or dirt in either instance, it will, you may rely upon it, work its way into the watch, as well as wear away the engine turning of the case.