Lined Draperies
Lining in proportion to drapery length.
2″ TOP 4″ HEM 7″ LINING 3″ 2″
Draperies are lined for the protection of the fabric. Linings also give weight to the draperies, causing them to hang in deeper folds. A sun-fast white, soft gray or cream colored sateen is generally used as the lining fabric.
Linings, just as drapery fabrics, must be cut straight with the crosswise and lengthwise grains.
Always start with a straight crosswise edge. This is obtained by drawing a crosswise thread and cutting on drawn thread. If fabric slopes up on one edge, then it should be straightened before pieces are cut.
Very often, when fabrics are rolled on the boards at the mills, the fabric is rolled more tightly on one end than at the other, drawing the crosswise threads (weft) in a diagonal line. This is apt to be true in loosely woven fabrics and particularly lining fabric.
To straighten fabric, first remove selvages, pull fabric gently but effectively, stretching it diagonally from corner to corner; then alternate. Grasp the fabric so that you will neither injure nor wrinkle it. Press before seaming.
Lining should be cut to allow for a 2″ hem at the bottom and a ½″ seam across the top and sides.
Illustration is for a drapery 2½ yards long, finished with 4″ top hem, 1″ side hems and 3″ bottom hem. Drapery length would measure 98½″ and lining length, 88½″. The average hem widths, 3″ and 4″, were used in figuring measurements. The width of hems vary. There is no fixed rule. They may be 3″—4″—5″ or even 7″ at the top and 2″—2½″—3″ or 4″ at the bottom. In many cases the bottom hem is doubled, particularly in sheer or lightweight fabrics. Also the center side hem may be as much as 2″ wide and the outer hem 1″. In this case, the lining is cut 6″ narrower than the drapery. Before taking measurements for draperies, review section on [Window Measurements].
To join lining, turn top edge of lining to underside ½″ and press. Pin lining and drapery together, starting 7½″ from the top. Stitch from top of lining down to 4½″ of lower edge of lining, taking a ½″ seam. Back-stitch at the beginning and end of seam. Press seam as stitched; then clip seam every 3″ or 4″. Press the seam open. Pin, from hem to hem, a 4″ wide strip of stiffening to underside across the top. Stitch and press.
Straightening material—Pull diagonally from low corner.
Joining lining to drapery.
RIGHT SIDE OF MATERIAL 7½″ LINING
Stiffening stitched to heading.
STIFFENING 1½″ FOR HEM BOTH SIDES UNDERSIDE OF MATERIAL
Turn drapery right side out and adjust hems on either side. Be sure seams are spread open. Press and pin. Turn top hem to underside. Pin and press. Turn and miter side hem. Cut out top hem even with stiffening and within 1″ of the top. Pin lining to hem, overlapping lower edge ½″. Side hem and mitered corner above the lining should be slip-stitched by hand; then slip-stitch lining to top hem. Press. Allow draperies to hang for 2 or 3 days before putting in lower hems. Then adjust length of drapery so that it clears the rug or floor. Turn edge under ½″; then turn hem width. If an allowance is made for a double hem, first turn to underside one-half the width allowed, then turn again the same width, enclosing first turn. Slip-stitch hem by hand or stitch by machine. The lining hem overlaps the drapery hem approximately 1″. Allowance is made for a 2″ hem with ½″ for seam. The lining hem hangs free of the curtain and is held in position with french tacks spaced about 12″ apart. To french tack, take 3 or 4 stitches first at top of drapery hem, then lining hem, then drapery hem, etc., leaving a ½″ or ¾″ length between. Blanket stitch over the full length of these strands of thread. Fasten thread at end of tack. Draperies should be anchored at top of return and lower side hems.
Use a sew-on or pin-on weight at bottom of center hems.
(See illustration at top of [page 22].)
Cut out end of top hem to eliminate bulk.
LINING TURNED BACK
Lining slip-stitched to top hem.
LINING
Making a French tack.
LINING
‘Sew-on’ or ‘pin-on’ weights.
Lined drapery with pleater tape heading.
Side hems tacked to insure evenness.
When using a tape with woven-in pockets for pleater pins, allow 2″ above the rod for heading and seam. See instructions under the section [Unlined Draperies] for joining tape to heading. Join lining; then clip and press seams. Turn drapery to right side and pin lining to bottom of tape, overlapping ¼″. Stitch and press; then finish side hems above lining by hand.
It is a good idea to tack the side hems along stitching line. This prevents them from slipping and hems always appear sharper. Using matching thread and working from the underside, insert needle through the seam down through to the right side, picking up a thread or two of the fabric. Then bring needle back up through the seam. Insert needle at the same point and direct needle along the seam between the hem a distance of 1″. Bring needle up through seam; then direct needle down through seam at same point, picking up two or three threads, and then up through seam again. Continue this tacking the length of the hem.