CONTENTS

CHAPTER I

Scenery and Seasons

Bernier's impression of Kashmir in 1665—Comparison of Kashmir and Switzerland—The road in—First signs of spring—Srinagar in March—A start for Shikar—Shikaris—Forest-clad hill-sides—Signs of stag—View over the valley—Rosy mountains—Unrealised beauties—A duck-shoot—The view from Hokrar—Harwan in spring—Varying beauties of Kashmir—Harwan in May—Clouds on the mountains—A Kashmir village—Irises and roses—Trout-culture—A trout stream—Srinagar in April—The view from Gupkar—A spring scene—Unusual rain—The Nishat Bagh—Pandrathan—Srinagar in summer—The valley in September—The end of the monsoon—The gorgeous autumn—A Hokrar duck-shoot—The valley in winter—Shikaris—Shooting in winter [1]

CHAPTER II

Travel in Kashmir

Travel in old times—My first entrance—My old retainer—Present modes of travel—Stages from the railway—Srinagar house-boats—Srinagar shops—Expeditions from Srinagar—The descent from the Tragbal [47]

CHAPTER III

Srinagar and Neighbourhood

An old capital—The Maharaja's arrival—Procession through the city—The European quarter—The Jama Masjid—Shah Hamadan—Dr. Neve's Hospital—The Takht-i-Suliman—Pandrathan—The Dal Lake—The Nasim Bagh—The Shalimar Bagh—The Nishat Bagh—Parihasapura [63]

CHAPTER IV

The Residency Garden

The first week in March—Fruit trees in bloom—Kashmir tulips—Golden orioles—Roses in May—Strawberries—Burbank's Delphiniums—The height of summer—The garden in autumn—Autumnal colours [87]

CHAPTER V

Gulmarg

The "Meadow of Flowers"—Its numerous attractions—Views over the valley—Flowers—Nanga Parbat [98]

CHAPTER VI

The Valleys and Places of Interest

The Sind Valley—Gangabal Lake—The Lolab—The Lidar Valley—Martand—Achibal [108]

CHAPTER VII

Sport

Game Preservation—The year's bag—Duck-shooting—Fishing [118]

CHAPTER VIII

The People

Kashmir beauties—The Pundits—Mohamedans—The Quadiani sect—Kashmiri villagers—Boatmen [125]

CHAPTER IX

The History of Kashmir

Possible effect of natural beauty—Ancient ruins—Martand—Greek influence—Buddhist influence—Kanishka—Lalitaditya—Avantivarman—Short reigns—Internal struggles—Perpetual intrigue—Advent of Mohamedans—Zain-ul-ab-ul-din—Akbar—The Moghals—Afghan oppressors—Sikhs—Rise of Gulab Singh—Break-up of Sikhs—Gulab Singh and the British—Treaty of 1846—Gulab Singh acquires Kashmir—Its deplorable state—Ranbir Singh—Country still depressed—Famine of 1877—Improvements during present reign[133]

CHAPTER X

Administration

System of rule—Personal—Sources of revenue—Land revenue assessment[183]

CHAPTER XI

Products and Manufactures

Wool—Silk—Fruit—Rice—Other grains—Experimental farm—Soil—Implements—Forests—Mineral products—Shawls—Carpets—Silk—Papier-mâché—Puttoo—Boat-building—Trade[194]

CHAPTER XII

The Electrical Scheme

Water-power turned to electric power—The Jhelum River harnessed—The flume—The power-house—Difficulties encountered—The dredging scheme[222]

CHAPTER XIII

The Peaks and Mountain Ranges

The Peak K2—Errors in observation—Nanga Parbat—Rocks of great peaks—The Himalayan range[234]

CHAPTER XIV

The Story of the Mountains

Interest of study—Kashmir under the sea—100,000,000 years ago—Kashmir an archipelago—Finally upheaved—Cause of upheaval—History of life—At first no land life—Ferns—The Coal Measures—Great reptiles—Mammals—Kashmir valley a lake—Appearance of man—Reflections on the story—Need to look forward—Creating higher man[251]