SIR JAMES DOUIE, M.A., K.C.S.I.

SEEMA PUBLICATIONS C-3/19, R. P. Bagh, Delhi-110007.
First Indian Edition 1974
Printed in India at Deluxe Offset Press, Daya Basti, Delhi-110035 and
Published by Seema Publications, Delhi-110007.


EDITOR'S PREFACE

In his opening chapter Sir James Douie refers to the fact that the area treated in this volume—just one quarter of a million square miles—is comparable to that of Austria-Hungary. The comparison might be extended; for on ethnographical, linguistic and physical grounds, the geographical unit now treated is just as homogeneous in composition as the Dual Monarchy. It is only in the political sense and by force of the ruling classes, temporarily united in one monarch, that the term Osterreichisch could be used to include the Poles of Galicia, the Czechs of Bohemia and Moravia, the Szeklers, Saxons and more numerous Rumanians of Transylvania, the Croats, Slovenes and Italians of "Illyria," with the Magyars of the Hungarian plain.

The term Punjábi much more nearly, but still imperfectly, covers the people of the Panjáb, the North-West Frontier Province, Kashmír and the associated smaller Native States. The Sikh, Muhammadan and Hindu Jats, the Kashmírís and the Rájputs all belong to the tall, fair, leptorrhine Indo-Aryan main stock of the area, merging on the west and south-west into the Biluch and Pathán Turko-Iranian, and fringed in the hill districts on the north with what have been described as products of the "contact metamorphism" with the Mongoloid tribes of Central Asia. Thus, in spite of the inevitable blurring of boundary lines, the political divisions treated together in this volume, form a fairly clean-cut geographical unit.

Sir James Douie, in this work, is obviously living over again the happy thirty-five years which he devoted to the service of North-West India: his accounts of the physiography, the flora and fauna, the people and the administration are essentially the personal recollections of one who has first studied the details as a District Officer and has afterwards corrected his perspective, stage by stage, from the successively higher view-point of a Commissioner, the Chief Secretary, Financial Commissioner, and finally as Officiating Lieut.-Governor. No one could more appropriately undertake the task of an accurate and well-proportioned thumb-nail sketch of North-West India and, what is equally important to the earnest reader, no author could more obviously delight in his subject.

T. H. H.

Alderley Edge,
March 9th, 1916.


NOTE BY AUTHOR

My thanks are due to the Government of India for permission to use illustrations contained in official publications. Except where otherwise stated the numerous maps included in the volume are derived from this source. My obligations to provincial and district gazetteers have been endless. Sir Thomas Holdich kindly allowed me to reproduce some of the charts in his excellent book on India. The accuracy of the sections on geology and coins may be relied on, as they were written by masters of these subjects, Sir Thomas Holland and Mr R. B. Whitehead, I.C.S. Chapter XVII could not have been written at all without the help afforded by Mr Vincent Smith's Early History of India. I have acknowledged my debts to other friends in the "List of Illustrations."

J. M. D.

8 May 1916.


CONTENTS

CHAP.PAGE
I.Areas and Boundaries[1]
II.Mountains, Hills, and Plains[8]
III.Rivers[32]
IV.Geology and Mineral Resources[50]
V.Climate[64]
VI.Herbs, Shrubs, and Trees[71]
VII.Forests[86]
VIII.Beasts, Birds, Fishes, and Insects[90]
IX.The People: Numbers, Races, and Languages[96]
X.The People: Religions[114]
XI.The People: Education[122]
XII.Roads and Railways[127]
XIII.Canals[132]
XIV.Agriculture and Crops[142]
XV.Handicrafts and Manufactures[152]
XVI.Exports and Imports[159]
XVII.History: Pre-Muhammadan Period, 500 B.C.-1000 A.D.[160]
XVIII.History: Muhammadan Period, 1000 A.D.- 1764 A.D.[168]
XIX.History: Sikh Period, 1764 A.D.-1849 A.D.[181]
XX.History: British Period, 1849 A.D.-1913 A.D.[188]
XXI.Archaeology and Coins[200]
XXII.Administration: General[212]
XXIII.Administration: Local[217]
XXIV.Revenue and Expenditure[219]
XXV.Panjáb Districts and Delhi[224]
XXVI.The Panjáb Native States[271]
XXVII.The North-west Frontier Province[291]
XXVIII.Kashmír and Jammu[314]
XXIX.Cities[325]
XXX.Other Places of Note[347]
TABLES
I.Tribes of Panjáb including Native States and of N.W.F. Province[359]
II.Rainfall, Cultivation, Population, and Land Revenue[360]
III.Agricultural Diagrams[362]
IV.Crops[364]
V.Revenue and Expenditure of Panjáb[366]
Index[367]


LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

FIG. PAGE
1.Arms of Panjáb[1]
2.Orographical Map (Holdich's India)[9]
3.Nanga Parvat (Watson's Gazetteer of Hazára)[11]
4.Burzil Pass (Sir Aurel Stein)[13]
5.Rotang Pass (J. Coldstream)[15]
6.Mt Haramukh (Sir Aurel Stein)[16]
7.R. Jhelam in Kashmír—View towards Mohand Marg (Sir Aurel Stein)[18]
8.Near Náran in Kágan Glen, Hazára (Watson's Gazetteer of Hazára)[19]
9.Muztagh-Karakoram and Himalayan Ranges in Kashmír (Holdich's India)[21]
10.The Khaibar Road (Holdich's India)[23]
11.Panjáb Rivers (Holdich's India)[33]
12.The Indus at Attock (Sir Aurel Stein)[37]
13.Indus at Kafirkot, D.I. Khán dt. (Sir Aurel Stein)[38]
14.Fording the River at Lahore (E. B. Francis)[42]
15.Biás at Manálí (J. Coldstream)[44]
16.Rainfall of different Seasons (Blanford)[62], [63]
17.Average Barometric and Wind Chart for January (Blanford)[65]
18.Average Barometric and Wind Chart for July (Blanford)[66]
19.Banian or Bor trees (Sir Aurel Stein)[75]
20.Deodárs and Hill Temple (J. Coldstream)[80]
21.Firs in Himálaya (J. Coldstream)[82]
22.Chinárs (Sir Aurel Stein)[83]
23.Rhododendron campanulatum (J. Coldstream)[84]
24.Big Game in Ladákh[92]
25.Yáks (J. Coldstream)[93]
26.Black Buck[95]
27.Map showing density of population (Panjáb Census Report, 1911)[97]
28.Map showing increase and decrease of population (Panjáb Census Report, 1911)[98]
29.Map showing density of population in N.W.F. Province (N.W. Provinces Census Report, 1911)[99]
30.Map showing density of population in Kashmír (Kashmír Census Report, 1911)[100]
31.Jat Sikh Officers (Nand Rám)[103]
32.Blind Beggar (E. B. Francis)[107]
33.Dards (Sir Aurel Stein)[108]
34.Map showing races (from The People of India, by Sir Herbert Risley. With permission of W. Thacker and Co., London)[109]
35.Map showing distribution of languages (Panjáb Census Report, 1911)[111]
36.Map showing distribution of religions (Panjáb Census Report, 1911)[115]
37.Raghunáth Temple, Jammu[116]
38.Golden Temple, Amritsar (Mrs B. Roe)[117]
39.Mosque in Lahore City (E. B. Francis)[118]
40.God and Goddess, Chamba (H.H. the Rája of Chamba)[120]
41.A Kulu godling and his attendants (J. Coldstream)[121]
42.A School in the time preceding annexation[124]
43.Poplar lined road to Srínagar (Miss M. B. Douie)[128]
44.Map showing railways[129]
45.Map—Older Canals[134]
46.Map—Canals[137]
47.Map of Canals of Pesháwar district[141]
48.Persian Wheel Well and Ekka (Sir Aurel Stein)[143]
49.A drove of goats—Lahore (E. B. Francis)[144]
50.A steep bit of hill cultivation, Hazára (Watson's Gazetteer of Hazára)[146]
51.Preparing rice field in the Hills (J. Coldstream)[147]
52.Carved doorway (Sir Aurel Stein)[151]
53.Shoemaker's craft (Baden Powell Panjáb Manufactures)[153]
54.Carved windows (Sir Aurel Stein)[155]
55.Papier maché work of Kashmír (Baden Powell Panjáb Manufactures)[156]
56.The Potter[157]
57.Coin—obverse and reverse of Menander[163]
58.Mártand Temple (Miss Griffiths)[166]
59.Bába Nának and the Musician Mardána[174]
60.Guru Govind Singh[176]
61.Mahárája Ranjít Singh[182]
62.Mahárája Kharak Singh[185]
63.Nao Nihál Singh[185]
64.Mahárája Sher Singh[185]
65.Zamzama Gun (E. B. Francis)[187]
66.Sir John Lawrence (from picture in National Portrait Gallery)[189]
67.John Nicholson's Monument at Delhi (Lady Douie)[190]
68.Sir Robert Montgomery[191]
69.Panjáb Camels at Lahore (E. B. Francis)[193]
70.Sir Charles Aitchison (Bourne and Shepherd)[194]
71.Sir Denzil Ibbetson (Albert Jenkins)[198]
72.Sir Michael O'Dwyer (R. Rámlál Bhairulál and Son)[199]
73.Group of Chamba Temples (H.H. the Rája of Chamba)[201]
74.Payer Temple—Kashmír (Sir Aurel Stein)[202]
75.Reliquary (Government of India)[203]
76.Colonnade in Kuwwat ul Islám Mosque[204]
77.Kutb Minár (Miss M. B. Douie)[205]
78.Tomb of Emperor Tughlak Sháh (Miss M. B. Douie)[206]
79.Jama Masjid, Delhi[207]
80.Tomb of Humáyun (Miss M. B. Douie)[207]
81.Bádsháhí Mosque, Lahore (E. B. Francis)[208]
82.Coins[210]
83.Skeleton District Map of Panjáb[223]
84.Delhi Enclave[225]
85.Hissár district with portions of the Phulkian States etc.[226]
86.Rohtak district[228]
87.Gurgáon district[230]
88.Karnál district[231]
89.Ambála district with Kalsia[233]
90.Kángra district[235]
91.Biás at Manálí (J. Coldstream)[237]
92.Religious Fair in Kulu (J. Coldstream)[238]
93.Kulu Women (J. Coldstream)[239]
94.Hoshyárpur district[240]
95.Jalandhar district and Kapurthala[242]
96.Ludhiána district and adjoining Native States[243]
97.Ferozepore district and Farídkot[244]
98.Gurdáspur district[246]
99.Siálkot district[247]
100.Gujránwála district[248]
101.Amritsar district[250]
102.Lahore district[251]
103.Gujrát district[252]
104.Jhelam district[254]
105.Ráwalpindí district[255]
106.Shop in Murree Bazár (Lady Douie)[256]
107.Attock district[257]
108.Mianwálí district[259]
109.Sháhpur district[261]
110.Montgomery district[263]
111.Lyallpur district[264]
112.Jhang district[265]
113.Multán district[266]
114.Muzaffargarh district[268]
115.Dera Ghází Khán district[269]
116.Mahárája of Patiála (C. Vandyk)[272]
117.Mahárája of Jínd[277]
118.Mahárája Sir Hira Singh of Nábha (Bourne and Shepherd)[278]
119.Mahárája of Kapúrthala[279]
120.Rája of Farídkot (Julian Rust)[280]
121.Nawáb of Baháwalpur[281]
122.Native States of Chamba, Mandí, Suket, Biláspur[284]
123.Rája Surindar Bikram Parkásh of Sirmúr[285]
124.Rája of Chamba (F. Bremner)[287]
125.Bashahr (Sketch Map by H. W. Emerson)[289]
126.Sir Harold Deane (F. Bremner)[292]
127.North-west Frontier Province[293]
128.Dera Ismail Khán district[294]
129.Bannu district[295]
130.Kohát district[297]
131.Pesháwar district[298]
132.Hazára district[300]
133.Sir George Roos Keppel (Maull and Fox)[303]
134.Tribal Territory north of Pesháwar[304]
135.Tribal Territory to west of N.W.F. Province[308]
136.Khaibar Rifles[310]
137.North Wazíristán Militia and Border Post[313]
138.Mahárája of Kashmír[315]
139.Jammu and Kashmír[316]
140.Takht i Sulimán in Winter (Sir Aurel Stein)[318]
141.Ladákh Hills (Mrs Wynyard Brown)[320]
142.Zojilá Pass (Mrs Wynyard Brown)[322]
143.Delhi Mutiny Monument[327]
144.Kashmír Gate, Delhi[328]
145.Map of Delhi City[329]
146.Darbár Medal[334]
147.Street in Lahore (E. B. Francis)[336]
148.Sháhdara[338]
149.Trans-border traders in Pesháwar[343]
150.Mosque of Sháh Hamadán (F. Bremner)[345]
Map of territories of Mahárája of Jammu and Kashmír [at end of volume]
Map of Panjáb [at end of volume]


CHAPTER I