DESCRIPTION OF PATTA.
The town of Patta stands on a low square point between two salt-water creeks surrounded with woods, chiefly cocoa-nut trees, and is composed of wretched mud buildings. No fruit except the cocoa-nut[cocoa-nut] was met with, and it was found impossible to procure any fresh water. The sheep, which are covered with hair instead of wool, and their goats are excellent ([Note 11]). The inhabitants belong to the Souallie[[106]] tribe, a people sprung from a mixture of the Galla[[107]] negroes with the Arabs, &c. The flat nose and thick lips, so peculiarly distinctive of the African countenance, is generally observed among them, and sufficiently marks their original connection with that race;[[108]] the woolly covering of the head universally prevails; the colour of their skins varies from a reddish brown or tawny hue, like the Arabs, to nearly a deep black; in their dispositions they are cunning and treacherous to the last degree.[[109]]
On the 9th, the same boat we met yesterday, and which returned with us to town, arrived at the ships with presents from the Sooltan, consisting of 60 cocoa-nuts, three white bullocks, and three goats in charge of one of his principal men, who came to receive the articles, the promise of which had been extorted during the interview at Patta. To give no cause for quarrel, the Sooltan’s present was accepted, but the boat was sent back with an answer that until Mallum Ali should be sent on board not a single article would be parted with. The pilots perceiving the boats go away without them, became very outrageous, and attempted to leap overboard, but finding themselves too well guarded, they desisted, and began to say (in direct contradiction to what they formerly asserted, and on the strength of which we had allowed ourselves to be brought to the present anchorage) that there was not water enough for the ships to get through the channel of the S.W., as the wind rendered it impossible for us to return the way we came in, and the above passage the only one by which we could keep clear of the shoals which surrounded us. We determined to detain the pilots till the ships were out of danger.
Next day, the 10th, the boat returned with Mallum Ali, though the promise given to the Sooltan was compulsory, and did not, strictly speaking, deserve the least regard; yet out of respect to the word and honour of an Englishman, as well as for the sake of any of our countrymen who might hereafter fall into their hands, and on whom they might be tempted to retaliate their disappointment, it was resolved to adhere to our extorted engagements as far as consistent with the safety of the ships. Therefore five muskets, two pistols, two barrels of gunpowder, two bundles of musket-ball cartridges, and 160 flints, being all we could spare, were delivered, with which they departed very well satisfied, and thus terminated this troublesome business.
From the 10th to the 12th we were occupied in getting through the S.W. channel, which proved a very tedious job. The pilots were either too ignorant or too unwilling to be of much service, and it became necessary to keep our boats out sounding in order to discover the passage, and direct the ships how to steer: we found it very narrow, and interrupted in two places by bars, on which at high water we found not more than one quarter less three fathoms. From the anchorage the channel ran W.S.W. 1/2 W., about half a mile, and then turned to the southward. In leading out on the 11th the Sylph grounded, but soon got off again; on the evening of the 12th, having got clear of the sands and rocks, dismissed the pilots, and stood out to sea during the night. Since anchoring at Patta the weather (with the exception of the morning of the 8th, when a few drops of rain fell) was fair with pleasant easterly winds, and heavy dews at night. The thermometer generally at 82°. The town, as near as we could ascertain (for we had no opportunity of determining it exactly), is in lat. 2° 8′ S., and long. by chron. 41° 13′ E., variation 14° W.
13th, Wednesday. No land in sight[[110]] during the day, and light easterly winds and calms prevailed with clear weather. Lat. at noon 2° 48′ S.
14th, Thursday. The course N.E. by E. Saw land bearing W.N.W., on which several large fires were burning, and at sunset were abreast of some small rocky islands, which seemed a continuation of the chain to the northward of Patta. Wind favourable. Lat. 2° 48′ S.
15th, Friday. In lat. 2° 41′ S., variation per azimuth 13° 29′ W. Fine weather, with light favourable winds.
16th, Saturday. In course of the afternoon yesterday we passed a reef of rocks, part of which rose considerably above the surface of the water, and had a very remarkable appearance. The reef runs from the N.E. point of Formosa Bay ([Note 12]), stretching several miles off shore in a south-easterly direction; the situation[[111]] I supposed to be in South lat. 2° 45′, for having to-day at noon observed in 2° 58′, it was then 15 or 16 miles astern of us. At noon the S.W. point of Formosa Bay bearing S.W. by W., observed two boats under the land; stood in with a view to speak them, and fired two guns which they took no notice of, but crowding all sail, made round the point into the Bay. Crossing the mouth of Formosa Bay at 5 P.M., saw another reef with breakers on it. We were at this time about 4 miles from shore, in 24 fathoms sand, and the breakers could not, I think, be more than 1½, or at the farthest, two miles from the ship. At 5 h. 20′ hove to in 13 fathoms, when the water suddenly shoaled to 6, 5, and one quarter less 4 fathoms, rocks. On shoaling a mosque, or round tower, was observed on a point or projecting part of the shore, bearing W. 3/4 N., distant 8 or 9 miles. Hauled our wind, and stood out for the night, intending to return next morning to determine as accurately as possible the exact situation of this dangerous shore. To-day there were light favourable winds with fine clear weather, the thermometer at 80°. Lat. at noon 2° 58′ S., long. 40° 8′ E.
17th, Sunday. At noon observed in lat. 3° 8′ S., the mosque seen on shore within the breakers yesterday, bearing due W. ([Note 13]). Spoke a country boat, which informed us the tower or mosque was called Gumanne;[[112]] also that a river opened at a short distance ahead, called Quiliffa.[[113]] At 4 P.M. were abreast of what we imagine to be this river, which has a small island at its mouth. Though the distance on the shore did not exceed two miles, no ground could be found with a line of 70 fathoms, and the water did not appear to be in any way discoloured. Thermometer 79°; lat. 3° 18′ S.; long. by chron. 40° 28′ E., by lunar 40° 30′ E.
18th, Monday. The coast rose into gently elevated hills, which were clothed with wood, and presented a fine fertile appearance. At noon the opening of the Quiliffa ([Note 14]), bearing N. 1/4 E. 8 or 9 miles; the lat. observed was 3° 32′ S. About 2 P.M. saw another river, said to be called the Channay,[[114]] distant from the ship 1½ miles right abreast. No soundings with 38 fathoms here. It had a large shoal with breakers close to the mouth, and its probable position may be in lat. 3° 32′ S., and long. 39° 51′ E.; variation by azimuth 13° 26′ W. To-day we had light easterly winds, with clear warm weather, the thermometer at 80½°. Here a pretty strong southerly current was experienced. Long. 39° 45′.
19th, Tuesday. The town of Mombaze, or as the natives pronounce it Mampass, was abreast of us, distant two miles. The fort stands at a short distance from the shore on a steep woody ridge, said to be an island, and has three flagstaffs on it. A little to the N.E. three remarkable hills or hummocks[[115]] serve as good marks for finding the place. Its situation my be in S. lat. 4° 2′, and in long. 39° 41′ 30″ E. At noon spoke a boat with a cargo of slaves, two days from Zanzibar, and towards evening saw the Island of Pemba a-head; worked to windward during night to weather it. Pleasant easterly breezes, with fine clear weather. The thermometer at 80°. Lat. at noon 4° 7′ S., long. by chron. 39° 51′ E.
20th, Wednesday. No land in sight during the early part of the day, which was sultry and calm, but in course of the afternoon, a breeze springing up about sunset, saw the Island of Pemba bearing S. 1/2 W. four or five leagues. In the evening stood out to the eastward, intending to return next day and observe the position of this island. The thermometer at 81°. Lat. observed at noon 4° 34′ S.
21st, Thursday. At noon observed in 5° 7′ S. the east point of Pemba, bearing west about two miles. Pemba is a low even island of considerable extent, being perhaps 16 or 17 leagues[[116]] in length. It is entirely covered with wood, and appears well-peopled. The shore, generally low and steep to the water’s edge, shelves in some small spots to a sandy beach remarkably white, that at a distance shows like walls or pieces of buildings. Throughout its whole extent are numerous creeks or inlets, and towards the S. W. end is a deep bay with several small islands at its mouth, hitherto as far as I know undescribed. Fresh north-easterly winds and cloudy weather; the thermometer at 82½°. Stood to windward during the night.
22nd, Friday. At noon saw the Island of Zanzibar a-head; about sunset anchored in 25 fathoms, green mud, abreast of Timbat, the largest of the small woody islands at the north-west end of Zanzibar. A little after the Sylph came close to us: the thermometer at 82°; lat. observed at noon 5° 37′ S.
23rd, Saturday, 7 A.M. Weighed and stood along the western side of the island (the Sylph leading), in from 5 to 15 fathoms, and at 11 anchored in the harbour in 7 fathoms, mud. The town of Zanzibar, then S.W. by S., distant three-quarters of a mile. Each vessel saluted the fort with three guns, which was not returned. In course of the afternoon sent the boat ashore with the Interpreter to acquaint the Hakim of our arrival. Moderate northerly winds and fair weather.
24th, Sunday. Accompanied the commanders on a visit to the Governor, or Hakim, as he is titled. He received us with great civility, and made many professions of friendship and assistance, which, however, in the sequel we did not find him disposed to act up to. We were saluted on landing and coming off by the fort and a ketch in the harbour. Thermometer 82½. Fair weather. ([Note 15].)
Proceedings at Zanzibar, from the 25th February to the 9th April, 1811, with some account of the island.
Zanzibar, situated between the 6th and 7th of S. lat. and 39th and 40th of E. long., is an island of considerable extent, being nearly 50 miles in length, and 20 in breadth; its distance from the east coast of the African Continent, along which it stretches in a N.-easterly and S.-westerly direction, may be about 15 or 16 leagues;[[117]] between the Continent and it, however, there is no passage for large vessels, except through the harbour, as a reef runs obliquely across from the African shore to the small islands which lie close to the western side of Zanzibar.[[118]] These islets, which stand considerably nearer to the south than the north ([Note 16]) extreme of the island,[[119]] are all, except one, covered with wood, and help to form the harbour. They run in a semi-circle, the concave side of which is towards Zanzibar, and are connected together by reefs of rocks, which, in blowy weather, break the swell, and render the port remarkably smooth and safe. The entrances into it are from the north and south; both lead between the small islet at the extremity of the semi-circle and the western shore of Zanzibar. The northern entrance, which leads within the small woody isle, called Frenchman’s Island,[[120]] is very narrow and crooked, in consequence of sand-banks, which run out from opposite shores, crossing each other. On the shallowest part (which will be known by bringing three northern woody isles in one) the depth is not more than three or four fathoms. The southern passes between a sandy isle ([Note 17]), and the point on which the town of Zanzibar stands is broader than the other, and has 7 or 8 fathoms water in it. The depth within the harbour is from 7 to 9 fathoms, with a tolerably good bottom: the rise of water during spring is nearly three fathoms.[[121]] Immediately adjoining the north end of the town is an extensive creek or inlet, which runs a little way in, and turns up behind the town. Here vessels of all descriptions are hauled up in security during the virulence of the S.W. Monsoon. With a very little care it might be converted into an excellent dock, and deepened, so as to admit with ease ships of at least five or six hundred tons.
The appearance of the island is extremely delightful. It is in general low, especially at the extremities, where it is thickly covered with a jungle and brushwood; but towards the middle the land rises into hills and gentle eminences, which are cultivated, and clothed with cocoa-nut trees. Besides the periodical rains which fall here from the month of March to September, the island itself is well-watered with a variety of springs, which unite and form a number of delightful streams, that flow during the dry season, and keep up that appearance of fertility and beauty, which it exhibits throughout the whole year. None of these streams are large: that at which the ships water[[122]] is situated about 1½ mile north of the town, where it flows into the sea, at the north entrance of the harbour. The water when first taken up is good, but from the quantity of putrid vegetable matter in suspension, upon keeping a short time it becomes very offensive both in taste and smell; in a few weeks, however, it regains its original sweetness. Ships ought always to fill at low water, else they will have it brackish. The climate of Zanzibar is similar to that of India, only the Monsoon, or rainy season, sets in sooner. From September to March the season is dry and warm; the rest of the months are rainy and tempestuous. During our stay the thermometer ranged from 80½ to 87½° at noon; and from the date of our arrival to the 5th of March, the weather was dry, cloudy, and warm, with northerly winds. From that, till our departure, it was in general cloudy, with frequent violent squalls of wind, and rain from the S.W., attended with much thunder and lightning.
The town of Zanzibar is situated on the west side of the island on a tongue of land formed by the above-mentioned creek, and faces the small sandy isle which constitutes the southern boundary of the harbour. It is large and populous, and is composed chiefly of cajan huts, all neatly constructed with sloping roofs. There are, however, a good number of stone buildings in it belonging to the Arabs and merchants; and in the centre, close to the beach, stands a fort, seemingly partly of Arab, partly of Portuguese, construction. It is square with a tower at each corner, and a battery or outwork towards the sea, in which I observed four or five guns of French manufacture remarkable for their length. In the middle of the town we observed a tree[[123]] of uncommon size: its height was about 8 or 10 feet, and from a rude measurement which we took, its circumference could not, I think, be less than 36 or 40 ([Note 18]). Zanzibar according to our observations stands in lat. 6° 6′ S., and long. 39° 15′ E.[[124]] ([Note 19].) It is the only assemblage of habitations on the island that deserves the name of town or even village; for the principal part of the inhabitants without the town being slaves of landholders, are scattered over their respective owners’ estates. The sovereignty of the island belongs to the Imaum of Muscat,[[125]] who appoints the Hakim or governor, and to whom the revenue derived from its commerce and land-tenures devolves. This revenue is said to amount to 60,000 crowns annually, though I have reason to believe it to be much more. His whole establishment consists of the Hakim, an assistant or councillor, and three Arab officers, to command the garrison. The present Hakim is a slave of his own whose history is somewhat curious: he is named Yacoud,[[126]] and was originally from Abyssinia: he belonged to the Imaum’s uncle and predecessor, who, detecting him in some familiarities with one of his young female slaves, caused him to be emasculated. Since his former master’s death he has become a great favourite of the present one, who promoted him to this distant and lucrative government,—perhaps considering that, as he had lost all relish for the only pleasure that can induce an Arab to dissipate his own or his master’s money, he would likely turn out a faithful and valuable servant; nor has he been disappointed. Yacoud’s ruling passion is the love of power, to attain which he himself lives like a beggar, and tyrannically extorts from the inhabitants large sums, which, with his own savings, he faithfully transmits as the price of his continuance in the government. The people, however, who live under his sway, detest and despise him. The revenue, as already stated, arises from land-tenures and customs; and though there is no regular land-tax levied, yet it is sometimes resorted to to raise a supply, an instance of which happened while we were there. One of the Imaum’s ships arrived from Muscat with a demand for 25,000 crowns to assist him in opposing the Wahabees, though I sincerely believe it was to defray the repairs of the very ship which brought the demand, and which was going to Bengal for that purpose. As this sum was not in the Hakim’s possession, he immediately imposed a kind of land-tax, so much to be raised in each district, the chief man of which was ordered to collect it and be answerable for its payment at a stated time, in default of which he was to be imprisoned. The other source from whence the revenue proceeds is a custom of 5 per cent. allowed by the Imaum to be gathered on all imports. This, however, is often very unjustly collected, and few, I believe, except Arabs, ever pay so little on their goods as the lawful sum. The Imaum maintains no kind of military force. The Hakim’s slaves, amounting to 400 or 500 men, are armed to serve as soldiers under the above three Arab officers. There are no imports or exports, though we were told the French pay voluntarily a premium of 10 dollars each for the slaves they take, to secure the good-will of the governor; they are in consequence great favourites, and from this circumstance we may easily account for his subsequent coolness to us, which was not lessened by his hearing of the surrender of the Isle of France while we were there, and on which occasion both vessels fired a royal salute. The principal articles of export are slaves and ivory, also a small quantity of drugs ([Note 20]). The number of slaves annually sent to Muscat, India, and the Isle of France, &c., are estimated at not less than from 6000 to 10,000. The quantity of ivory is also very great, and is sent principally to Surat. Of imports the following are the chief: Surat and Dungaree cloth from Cutch; iron, sugar, and rice from Bombay, rice from Pemba, dates from the Gulf of Persia; slaves, ivory, and drugs from Magadosho, Brava, Ganu, Mombas, and other towns along the African coast ([Note 21]). The number of trading vessels, including those from Semap and Cutch, amounted at the time we left the island to upwards of 50. I could not procure accurate information as to the quantity of the above articles annually imported; but from the amount of the custom, the value cannot be under £300,000. We were told that the demand for European goods on the continent was very great; and if the natives had any returns to make besides ivory and slaves,[[127]] I have little doubt but we might here find an extensive and lucrative vent for numerous articles of our manufacture.