Spanish America, Vol. 2 (of 2)

by Sir Richard Henry Bonnycastle

BOUNDARIES AND EXTENT.

This government is the most extensive and one of the richest kingdoms of the New World. It is bounded on the north by the vast steppe of the Amazons, or, according to some authorities, by that noble river itself; on the east the territories of the Portuguese and the Atlantic ocean are its limits; on the west it is divided by the Andes from Peru and Chili, having also a province bordering on the South Sea; and on the south its bounds are the Pampas and Patagonia.

From Cape Lobos in the Atlantic to the most northerly settlements on the Paraguay its extent may be estimated at 1600 miles; and from Cape St. Antony, the mouth of the Plata, to the Andes of Chili, its breadth is at least 1000 miles.

POLITICAL AND TERRITORIAL DIVISIONS, &c.

This country was erected into a viceroyalty in 1778, and at that time several provinces were added to it from Peru and Chili. At present it is divided into five governments, Los Charcas, Paraguay, Tucuman, Cuyo, and Buenos Ayres, which are again subdivided into departments and districts.

The whole is governed by a viceroy, whose title is at present disputed, by the capital being in possession of the insurgent government; and the ecclesiastical affairs of the country are under the guidance of the archbishop of La Plata, in Charcas, who has six suffragans.

Its population is estimated at 1,100,000 Creoles and Spaniards: but the Indians have not been numbered.

HISTORY, DISCOVERY, &c.

The Spaniards claim the honour of first discovering this country. Juan Dias de Salis, having sailed from Spain with two ships, in 1515, to explore Brazil, arrived at the mouth of the Rio de la Plata, and took formal possession of the land: but, deluded by the friendly appearance of the Indians, and being off his guard, he was slain, with the few attendants who had landed with him. In 1526, Sebastian Cabot, then in the Spanish service, also endeavouring to make the coast of Brazil, entered the same river, and discovered an island, which he called St. Gabriel; advancing about 120 leagues, he found a fine river flowing into the great stream, this he named St. Salvador, and causing his fleet to enter this river, disembarked his men, and built a fort, in which he left a garrison, while he proceeded farther up, and also discovered the Paraguay. Having procured much silver from the Indians, particularly the Guaranies, who brought the metal from the eastern parts of Peru, he imagined that mines existed in the country he was in, and accordingly gave the name of River of Silver, or Rio de la Plata, to the great stream he had sailed up.

The Spaniards soon came to a determination of colonizing this valuable acquisition, and to prevent any interference on the part of the other nations of Europe, Don Pedro de Mendoza was sent from Spain, and founded the city of Buenos Ayres, in 1535. From the early times of the colonization of this country till the establishment of a viceroyalty, the government was dependent on that of Peru; though the chief of Buenos Ayres had the title of captain-general. Buenos Ayres continued for a long time almost unknown, all the inhabited parts of the kingdom lying at a distance from the ocean, and by the restrictions put upon its commerce having no other communication with Europe than by the annual flota from Spain, it languished in indigence and obscurity: but the resources of so extensive and so fertile a territory could not remain for ever concealed; as the population, and, consequently, in an agricultural country, the riches increased, the constant remonstrances of the people at last opened the eyes of the Spanish government to the importance of the colony, a relaxation took place in the system of commercial monopoly which had been hitherto rigorously adhered to, and at last, in order to put a stop to a contraband trade that had been carried to an alarming height, register ships were allowed to sail under a licence from the council of the Indies at any time of the year. The annual flota dwindled away from 15,000 to 2000 tons of shipping, and, in 1748, they sailed for the last time to Cadiz, after having carried on, for two centuries, the trade of Spanish America.

The register ships now supplied the market with European commodities at a cheaper rate, and at all times of the year; and Buenos Ayres became from that time a place of importance.

Other relaxations in the mercantile system followed soon after: in 1774 a free trade was allowed between several of the American ports, and in 1778 seven Spanish sea-ports were declared free, to which in 1788, five others were added, and these were allowed an open trade to Buenos Ayres, and the ports of the Pacific.

The city and the captain-generalship was now advancing with rapid strides into political importance; this was rendered stable by the erection of the government into a viceroyalty in 1778; and since that time its trade has progressively increased.

Previous to this epoch, not more than fifteen registered vessels traded to South America, and these not oftener than once in two or three years; but in 1778, their number at once augmented to 170. They kept gradually increasing till 1797, when the memorable war began between Spain and Great Britain, and a death blow was given to the commerce of Spanish America, for in 1798, it was calculated, that three millions of hides were rotting in the warehouses of Buenos Ayres and Monte Video, for which no vent could be had, so active and vigilant were the British cruizers. Various causes have since contributed to fluctuate the commerce of this government; sometimes it has risen to an amazing height, whilst at others, owing to foreign causes, or to its own internal convulsions, it has been totally at a stand.

Nothing of any material moment occurs in the political history of Buenos Ayres, till the year 1806; when there appeared a British squadron in the Rio de la Plata, from which a body of troops was landed for the purpose of taking the capital; and this object General Beresford accomplished in a very spirited manner. He had not however had possession of the city for more than six weeks, when he was assailed by such a superiority of force, that his garrison were obliged to surrender on the 12th of August. Reinforcements arriving under Sir Home Popham, from the Cape of Good Hope, Fort Maldonado at the mouth of the La Plata was taken, and Monte Video unsuccessfully besieged. Other troops commanded by Sir Samuel Auchmuty, coming to the assistance of their companions, Monte Video was eventually taken by storm, and here the combined forces waited for a further succour, to resume the attempt on the capital. In May, 1807, these succours arrived, under General Whitelocke, who assumed the chief command, and was joined on the 15th of June by General Crawford. The army now amounting to 8000 men sailed up the river, and disembarking below the capital, marched towards it. But no sooner had they entered the place, than they were assailed from all quarters, with a tremendous fire of grape and musquetry. The subsequent results are well known; a convention was entered into, and the British troops evacuated the territories of the viceroyalty.

When Sir Samuel Auchmuty took Monte Video, the people of Buenos Ayres were in a state of ferment. They assembled an extraordinary junta, and deposed their viceroy, Sobremonte, placing in his seat, Don Santiago Liniers, a French emigrant, who had headed the military force, which retook the metropolis, on the 12th August, 1806. This man had sunk himself by a propensity for gambling into a state of great obscurity; but when the British landed in the country, his superior military talents, at once placed him above the inactive and ignorant Spanish officers, who composed the army of the viceroyalty, and by his success in retaking the capital, the populace looked upon him as the only man fit to guide them to repel the second attack, which they were in constant expectation of; thus rose Liniers to the highest station, which could be obtained in a country, where a very short time before, he had been unknown. But his reign lasted not long, attempting to thrust on the people the yoke of Buonaparte, they began to doubt his sincerity; and aided By Xavier Elio, who had been dispatched from the junta of Cadiz, to assume the viceregal title, and who had succeeded in getting possession of Monte Video, they became turbulent.

To quell this spirit, Liniers sent an expedition against Monte Video; but while this was going on, Don Josef de Goyeneche arrived from Spain, to endeavour to mediate between the newly formed parties. He caused the inhabitants of Buenos Ayres to proclaim Ferdinand the Seventh; advising at the same time, that a junta should be immediately formed. So powerful were his measures, that on the 1st of January 1809, the people rose in all parts of the city, and demanded the establishment of a junta. They were however dispersed, and the leaders punished by the troops who remained faithful to Liniers.

But this temporary triumph was not of long continuance, as in August, 1809, Cisneros, the new viceroy, arrived from Spain, and Liniers was deposed by the junta, which now solemnly declared their rights. Liniers was then exiled to Cordova, but the spirit of insurrection had spread itself too widely by this time to admit of the new viceroy continuing long in the exercise of his functions; commotion succeeded to commotion, and on the 26th of May, 1810, a provisional government assembled itself; deposed the new viceroy and sent him to Spain; against this measure the interior provinces and Monte Video protested. Liniers formed an army in the neighbourhood of his retreat, and in Potosi another assembled under General Nieto. To check these, a force marched from Buenos Ayres; Liniers and Nieto were defeated, and themselves and six of their principal officers beheaded.

This violent measure did not extinguish the loyal feelings of the natives of the kingdom; a force was put in motion in Paraguay, under the governor Velasco, who was however taken prisoner and sent to Buenos Ayres, but Monte Video still remained firm in her allegiance to Spain, and repelled every attempt of the new government. Since this period Monte Video has been taken possession of by the Portuguese. Buenos Ayres, though threatened with a counter-revolution, still retains its provisional government; the mines of Potosi are in the hands of the viceroy of Peru; the greater part of Paraguay is quiet, and the spirit of insurrection is chiefly confined to the capital; which furnishes a great number of privateers that much annoy the Spanish merchant vessels trading to Peru and the coasts of the Pacific. It would be endless to recount the different actions which have taken place between the royal troops and the insurgents, or between the city of Monte Video and that of Buenos Ayres; but the latter have been generally victorious, and the privateers of this new government still dare to show their flag in the Pacific, and to keep the coasts of Chili and Peru in constant alarm.

FEATURES, CLIMATE, &c.

Buenos Ayres presents on its eastern territories a tract of land so nearly level that many of its principal rivers, unable to roll themselves forward with sufficient impetus, form large shallow lakes, and it has been calculated that the great Paraguay in its course southward does not fall above one foot in height between the 18th and 22d degrees of south latitude.

These immense levels are covered with a strong and luxuriant herbage, which pastures innumerable herds of half-wild horses and cattle. No hill or swelling rises in this expanse to a greater elevation than 600 feet above the plain, so that if placed on one of these eminences, the eye wanders over a space resembling the ocean, uninterrupted, save by the dark spots formed here and there by the grazeing cattle, or by the travelling waggons and escorts.

But on the west the viceroyalty offers a very different scene, a vast chain of mountains, whose summits are lost in the frozen regions of the air, elevate their eternal barriers between the plains of the La Plata, and the kingdoms of Peru and Chili. From this the main chain of the Andes, a secondary Cordillera, branches out between 15° and 20° of south latitude, and traversing the province of Chiquitos, it appears to, and in fact does connect the Andes of Peru and Chili with the mountain country of Brazil and Paraguay.

From it flow, on the north, the rivers that empty themselves into the Maranon, whilst its southern flank supplies the streams which swell the La Plata. This chain, named the Cordillera of Chiquitos, has not been explored by any scientific traveller, and being inhabited by savage nations, its structure and disposition are almost unknown.

The next remarkable features of this interesting country are its lakes and rivers. In the flat plains of La Plata the Los Xarayes is formed by the collected waters of the torrents which flow, during the rainy season, from the mountains of Chiquitos, and the Paraguay swelling over its banks at that period, inundates an expanse of flat land under the 17° of south latitude to an extent of 330 miles in length, and 120 in breadth; but when the waters of the Paraguay abate, this lake becomes a marsh infested with multitudes of alligators. Its banks swarm with jaguars, pumas, monkeys, stags, &c. and with venomous reptiles and insects. It is never navigable for any other vessels than canoes and small barks, in which the Portuguese cross it from their settlements in Cuyaba. Besides this lake there are many others of great size, formed in a similar manner, such as Aguaracatay, in the 25th degree, Ypoa in the 26th degree, and Neembuco in the 27th degree of south latitude.

There are also several smaller ones which are formed by the inability of the rivers to continue their course without inundating the land in the vicinity of their banks to find an outlet; these are permanent, but generally of no depth, such as Mandiha in 25° 20', Ypacary in 25° 23', and the Iberi between the 20th and 29th degree of south latitude.

This last lake gives rise to three rivers which fall into the Great Parana; viz. the Sta. Lucia, the Batela and the Corrientes from its south-west extremity, and to the Mirinay, which taking a south-east course falls into the Uruguay.

Lake Iberi is shallow and filled with aquatic plants, but is diversified with islands, on which feed deer and other animals; these islands are unlike the plain surrounding the lake, being in general covered with wood, and many settlements have been made on its banks, which are in beautiful situations, supplied with plenty of game, and fish, and it overflows twice a year.

Titicaca or Chucuito is not only among the largest but the most remarkable lakes of La Plata. It is situated between the two Cordilleras of the Andes, in the north-west part of Los Charcas, and being formed by the surrounding mountains, has no outlet, and is in some parts from 420 to 480 feet in depth: its circumference is about 240 miles, containing many islands, of which Titicaca the largest, is three leagues long and one wide, and is famous as having been the supposed residence of Manco Capac.

This lake is navigable for the largest vessels, but is subject to dreadful storms owing to the tremendous gusts of wind which rush from the Andes.

The rivers of Buenos Ayres are innumerable, but the largest and the most noted is the Rio de la Plata, which may be termed the great channel by which the south-eastern part of America is drained. This noble stream is the conjunct flood of the Paraguay, the Pilcomayo, the Parana, the Uruguay, and a multitude of minor rivers which rise either in the Andes or the mountains of Brazil.

It was first discovered by Juan de Salis in 1515, who sailed up as far as an island in 34° 40' south latitude. The distance from the confluence of the Parana and Paraguay to the mouth of the La Plata is 600 miles; but if the length of any of the three great streams is added, the La Plata will not yield in magnitude of course to the Amazons or to the Orinoco.

The Paraguay is generally supposed to be the original river; this stream rises in 13° south latitude in the mountains, forty leagues north of the Portuguese town of Cuyaba, and on the opposite side of the chain in which rises the Arinos, a broad navigable river flowing into the Maranon. The sources of the Paraguay are very numerous, forming, soon after their issue, large rivers, and successively joining into one stream, under the name of the Paraguay. In 16° 24' south latitude, seven leagues from Villa Bella, the Jauru flows into this river, and is noted as being the point where a fine marble pyramid is erected, which was brought from Lisbon, and denotes, by several inscriptions, that this place is the boundary of Brazil and Spanish America. From its sources to this point the Paraguay has a navigation interrupted only by one fall; and the lofty chain of mountains in which this river rises, are terminated seven leagues below the pyramid, in south latitude 16° 43' by a point called Morro Excalvado. East of this cape all is marsh; nine leagues further south, the Rio Nuevo joins the Paraguay; this river was only discovered in 1786. In 17° 33' the west or Spanish banks of the great river again become mountainous, and three leagues to the south of his parallel there is a deep break in the chain which forms the mouth of lake Gaiba, which is connected with another named Uberava; six leagues and a half below the mouth of the Gaiba, and opposite the mountain bank the St. Lourenço or Porrudos enters the Paraguay from Brazil. This river receives several very large ones, such as the Cuyaba, the Paraiba, the Jaquari, and the Itaquiri. The Itaquiri rises near the great Parana in Brazil, and allowing only for a short portage, canoes actually circumnavigate the country included between the Parana and the Paraguay.

The mountains continue on the western banks under different names; on the eastern bank the river receives the Taquari by many estuaries, the largest of which is in 19° 15' south latitude, and 54 degrees west longitude. Five leagues lower, and on the same side, the Embotetieu or Mondego, flows into the Paraguay, one league below the mouth of which two high capes front each other, and here, at the foot of the mountain, on the west, is Fort Nueva Coimbra, the last and southernmost Portuguese settlement on the Paraguay, which, after bounding the possessions of the two nations from the pyramid of Jaura, becomes wholly a Spanish river, after passing Bahia Negra, a large inlet eleven leagues south of Coimbra.

Thence the river continues to south latitude 21°, where, on the west bank, on a hill named Miguel Josef, the Spaniards have a station with four pieces of cannon, named Fort Bourbon, and previous to reaching this fort, the little river Guirino flows into it from the east. In south latitude 21° 22' the river forms two channels by passing an island, and the banks are here high on both sides, the interior being very mountainous. At this point the great inundations of the river which commenced at the mouth of the Jaura, and have received the name of Lake Los Xarayes terminate.

During the rainy season, the channel of the Paraguay is here confounded with those of its tributary streams, in such a manner that it is difficult to find. The banks of the river continue high; and in 22° 5' south latitude, it receives a large river from the west, and twenty leagues south of this, the Corientes joins its streams.

The Xexuy flows into it from the east in 24° 11'; from thence the Paraguay runs southwards for thirty-two leagues to the city of Asuncion, the capital of Paraguay.

Six leagues below Asuncion, the first mouth of the great Pilcomayo joins the main river, its second mouth being fourteen or sixteen leagues lower. In the intermediate space on the eastern side several small rivers join, and on one of them, the Tibiquari, at 20 leagues south-east of Asuncion is Villa Rica, a fine Spanish town. The Rio Vermelho enters the west bank of the Paraguay in 26° 50' on which, in the interior, is the town of Salto. The stream of the Paraguay, being now augmented by the Pilcomayo, proceeds with increased rapidity and volume to 27° 25', where the immense body of waters, (much larger than itself) of the Parana join it, and their united streams take the name of the Rio de la Plata, and continue their course by an immense channel to the south, forming several islands, and receiving many noble streams, till it has passed the thirty-fourth degree of south latitude, when it begins to take an easterly course, and after receiving the great Uruguay or River of the Missions above Buenos Ayres, it flows with a steady and majestic course, and by an immense estuary into the Atlantic ocean. The cape Santa Maria on the north, and St. Antonio on the south side of its mouth are 180 miles distant from each other, in 35° 30' south latitude; but the navigation of this fine river is interrupted by banks, rocks and islands, and is rendered dangerous by violent winds, which, sweeping with great velocity over the plains, cause perfect hurricanes in the La Plata. It is even said that the storms are more frequent than at sea, and it requires very little nautical knowledge to know that they must be infinitely more dangerous than on that element. The water of the ocean is fresh at a great distance from the La Plata, owing to the rapidity with which that river discharges itself.

The other noted streams and features of Buenos Ayres will be noticed in the description of the different provinces.

COMMERCE AND RESOURCES.

Since the attachment of several of the Peruvian provinces to this government, the commerce and resources of the country are greatly enlarged and altered. From being merely an agricultural state, it has now become possessed of some of the richest mines in America. The districts which supply the most considerable quantities of the precious metal are Potosi, Changata, Porco, Oruro, Chucuito, La Paz and Carangas, and the mountains of Anauca, near Carabaya, and Asangara, north-east of lake Titicaca, were celebrated in the first years of the conquest for their gold mines.

The annual produce of the mines of Buenos Ayres is estimated at 882,000l., including those of Caylloma in Arequipa, which are said to be attached to the government of La Plata. This produce is nearly all silver. The quantity that has annually paid the fifth being in fine gold 2200 marcs, and in fine silver 414,000 marcs, or 4,212,400 piastres. Its contraband trade in these metals has also been estimated at 67,000 marcs, most of which passes to Europe by the Rio de la Plata, while in Peru, by the Amazons and the South Sea, the same unlawful trade carries away 100,000 marcs.

The trade of Buenos Ayres consists in these metals, and in exports of salt beef, tallow, fine furs, sea wolf-skins, wool, sheep-skins, flour, oil, copper, hides, &c.; to the interior provinces of Peru it sends Paraguay tea, swan skins, negro slaves, thread, &c., in exchange for sugar, cacao, cinnamon, rice, indigo, cotton, oil, pimento, wax, baize, woollen goods, quicksilver, &c.

From Europe La Plata receives linens, woollens, silks, cottons, hats, iron, &c., and the imports may be estimated, in average years, at 758,400l., whilst its exports amount, in agricultural produce, to 434,000l., and in gold and silver to 1,183,400l., thus forming a total of 1,617,400l. sterling. It formerly remitted 700,000 piastres, at 4s. 4d. each, to the royal coffers: but since the late struggle its expences have been so great in maintaining the insurgent cause, that it can hardly defray them; especially since the viceroy of Peru has taken possession of the richest mines for the king.

Capital.—The capital of this viceroyalty is the city of Buenos Ayres, containing a population of sixty thousand souls, or, according to Estalla, of forty thousand, of whom the greater part are creoles. This city is situated in 34° 35' south latitude and 57° 24' west longitude, on the south side of the Rio de la Plata, adjoining to a small river, from which the plain it is built on, gently ascends. It was founded in 1535 by Don Pedro de Mendoza, who gave it the name of Buenos Ayres, on account of its fine climate, but was abandoned soon after, and not rebuilt until 1582, after which it speedily increased and was erected into a bishopric in 1620, and into the capital in 1776. Buenos Ayres is well fortified, and its streets are straight, handsome, and clean, being paved on each side. The principal square is very large, and contains the residence of the governor, and the houses are built of brick or chalk, consisting generally of two stories, with a tiled roof. The cathedral is a spacious and elegant structure, and there is a church appropriated for the Indians, with several convents, chapels, &c.

The distance from Cape Santa Maria, the entrance of the La Plata, to Buenos Ayres, is 200 miles: but the navigation is very dangerous, owing to rocks and shallows. In consequence of these dangers, large vessels generally come to an anchor every night in sailing up, and on the most moderate days it is necessary to be very vigilant, owing to the sudden effects of the blasts from the plains. After arriving within three leagues of the city, the cargoes are put into light vessels, and the ships go to the bay of Barragan, about twenty-four miles below, to refit and wait for freights.

The principal streets of this town are the Calle de la Santa Trinidada, and the Calle de San Benito. The former runs almost the whole length of the city, and is occupied by the richer classes, who have also splendid villas in the country; almost every house has a garden both before and behind, and many have balconies latticed for odoriferous shrubs and flowers. The interior of the houses display great wealth, but not much cleanliness; and in summer they cover their floors with fine Indian matting, and in winter with carpets.

The gardens are watered by small canals, and there is generally a large basin or reservoir in each, from which water is conducted by pipes into the houses. That part of the city inhabited by the negroes and castes has a very mean appearance, and, being very dirty, presents a great contrast to the external show of the other parts. The churches are covered with cupolas and steeples, which give them a handsome look, and the town-hall is a fine building in the great square; the convents, nunneries, the hospital for men, that for women, and those for foundlings and orphans, being edifices of stone, of a beautiful whiteness, which is quarried in the plains near the city.

Buenos Ayres is well supplied with provisions, particularly with fish and flesh; there is no place in the world where butcher's meat is better, more plentiful, or cheaper; and it is frequently distributed to the poor, as the merchants often buy the animal for the sake of the hide alone. Poultry is dear, a couple of fowls costing as much as an ox. Buenos Ayres was taken by the British in 1806, but retaken after six weeks by the inhabitants; the subsequent events have been already noticed. Its port is the great outlet for all the produce of the interior, and, in times of war, much of the produce of Peru and Chili pass to Europe by it, as well as Vicuna wool from the Andes, copper from Coquimbo, gold from Chili, silver from Potosi, and from Paraguay, the finest tobacco, sugars, cotton, yellow wax and threads. The commerce carried on with Peru is chiefly returned in mules and cattle, with matté, or Paraguay tea. Goods are conveyed in covered waggons over the vast plains to Mendoza in one month; from this place they cross the ridges of the Andes on mules to Santiago, a distance of eighty leagues; and thence in carts to Valparaiso, a distance of thirty leagues, which occupies fifteen days more.

The climate of the city of Buenos Ayres is hot during the summer season, and during the winter so much cold is felt that water generally freezes slightly: but if this happens often the season is reckoned very severe. The north and east winds are the most common; a north-east wind always brings heat, and a south-east cold; and these winds are generally violent, and when the westerly winds begin they blow with extreme force, and are known by the name of Pamperos, from their having their origin in the great Pampas or plains. The atmosphere is very moist, and those rooms which have a southern aspect are always damp, as the walls to the south are covered with moss, and the roofs with long bushy grass, which grows nearly three feet high, and which requires to be cleared away occasionally to prevent its injuring the houses. During summer rains are common, and are often accompanied with dreadful thunder and lightnings. In the year 1793, the electric fluid struck the city of Buenos Ayres in thirty-seven different places by which nineteen persons were killed.

This city is a bishop's see, suffragan of the archbishop of Charcas.

A court of royal audience for the eastern provinces of Buenos Ayres was erected here soon after the establishment of the viceregal form of government, but at present is superseded by other regulations which the independent government have adopted.

GOVERNMENT OF LOS CHARCAS, OR POTOSI.

This government is one of the recent acquisitions of Buenos Ayres, and in point of mineral produce is the most valuable of its territories. It is bounded on the north by the chain or Cordillera of Vilcanota, which separates it from the Peruvian provinces, and by countries inhabited by wandering tribes; on the east it has the mountains of Arequipa, the Pacific ocean and the Chilian Andes; on the west the governments of Paraguay and Buenos Ayres; and on the south that of Buenos Ayres.

Its most noted districts are Lampa, Carabaya, Ansangaro, Chucuito, Paucar-Colla, Pacajes, Omasuyos, Larecaja, La Paz, Sicasica, Oruro, Paria, Carangas, Porco, Chayanta, Charcas Proper, Pilaya, Cochabamba, Pomabamba, Tomina, Atacama, Lipes, Amparaes, Apolabamba, Santa Cruz de la Sierra, Tarija, Chiquitos, Moxos and Chacos, the last three being countries inhabited by independent tribes, among whom there are a few missionaries and settlements.

This immense tract is covered with deserts, forests, vast plains and rivers, and its most populous parts are those which are called Provincias de la Sierra, and which lie on or near the Andes. The Inca Capac Yupanqui subjected these provinces to his sceptre; his son Inca Roca continued the conquests of his father, and greatly extended the dominions of Peru on the east, till he became master of all the nations as far as the place where the city of La Plata was afterwards built.

After the conquest of the western parts of Peru by the Spaniards, they turned their attention towards reducing the remote tribes. In 1538 Gonzalo Pizarro marched at the head of a body of troops from Cuzco, and advancing to Charcas, was opposed with such spirit by the natives, that it was not till after great efforts that they were subdued; this was the commencement of the Spanish colonization of La Plata; and the different conquests, and the descriptions of the numerous districts of this government will be treated of in describing their chief towns.

The capital of Charcas is Chuquisaca, or La Plata, in 19° 40' south latitude, and 66° 46' west longitude, in a small plain surrounded with mountains. In summer the temperature of the air is very mild, nor is there any very great difference throughout the year; but in winter, which commences in September and lasts till March, rains are very frequent, and are accompanied with thunder and lightning.

This town was erected into a bishopric in 1551, and in 1608 was raised to the metropolitan dignity. It was founded by Pedro Anzures, in 1539, by order of Gonzalo Pizarro, on the scite of the Indian town of Chuquisaca; which name it now generally bears, it having received its other appellation of La Plata, in consequence of the number of silver mines in its vicinity.

The houses are generally two stories high, and covered with tiles; they are large, convenient, and have beautiful gardens, in which grow all sorts of European fruits. The cathedral is also large and well ornamented, and there is a parish church appropriated solely for the Indians, who live in the suburbs, and amount to about 3000.

Besides these there are five convents, each of which has a handsome church, two nunneries, an university, and two colleges.

The greatest evil attending the situation of this city is the want of water, which is only scantily supplied by the public fountains, dispersed in different places.

Chuquisaca is famous as being the seat of the Royal Audience of Los Charcas, which is the supreme court of Buenos Ayres, and has the viceroy for its president; it was erected in 1559.

The magistracy of this city are chosen from among the first nobility, and consist of a corregidor, regidores, and alcaldes, who govern the district attached to the town, which includes a very large space around it, and contains, amongst others, the celebrated city and mines of Potosi.

The inhabitants of La Plata are computed at 14,000.

In the district surrounding the capital, and which is called Charcas, are several rivers, which form from their united streams the Pilcomayo. The names of these rivers are the Tarapaya, that runs from Porco; the Potosi, which is employed in washing the ores in the mines of that name; and the Cachimayo, which passes near La Plata; after the junction of this last, the united stream flows through the districts of Pilaya, Paspaya, and Tomina, from whence it enters Chaco, and runs 80 leagues as far as the Llanos de Manso, after which its channel is through thick forests to the south-east, and it enters the Paraguay, south of the city of Asuncion, in between 25° 40' and 26° 20' south latitude, by two mouths, after a course of 600 miles. Its banks are inhabited by independent nations, who are so warlike, that the Jesuits in vain sought for a passage by this stream, from Peru to Paraguay.

The city of Potosi, included in this jurisdiction, is in 19° 47' south latitude, and 67° 22' west longitude, east-south-east of Lima in Peru, in a country inclosed by the mountainous district of Porco; the climate is cold, and the environs very barren, the valleys being destitute of wood, the sides of the hills covered only with moss, and their summits capped with eternal snows. A few vicunas are now and then seen grazing in this elevated and desolate region, which would never have been frequented by man, had it not happened, that Diego Hualca, an Indian peasant, was pursuing some wild goats, and arriving at a very steep place, laid hold of a small shrub to prevent himself from falling, but the shrub being unable to support his weight, was torn up by the roots, and disclosed to the astonished hunter, a rich mass of silver, lumps of which adhered to the earth, that came away with the plant. The Indian who lived at Porco, made use of this inexhaustible fund of riches for a length of time, but his good fortune could not remain long concealed, as his friend Guanca, observing a considerable change in his manner of living, became anxious to investigate the cause, and pressing Hualca constantly to know the reason, he at last disclosed the mystery. They however kept their secret for some time, till Hualca, refusing to show his friend the manner of purifying the metal, the latter related the whole affair to Villaroel, his master, who also resided at Porco. Villaroel accordingly proceeded to the vein, on the 21st of April 1545, and procuring the necessary assistance, the mine was immediately opened.

The city of Potosi was founded in a narrow glen, on the river of the same name, on the south side of the mountain which contains the mines, in the year 1547. A royal mint was established in 1562, and so rapidly did its population increase, that in 1611, the town contained 160,000 inhabitants, but from various causes, the population of this city since that time has continually decreased, and at present it consists only of about 30,000 souls. Potosi has a mint, six convents, two nunneries, a college and an hospital; and its inhabitants are still chiefly concerned in the working of the mines, and consist of whites, mestizoes, and Indians, for the latter of whom there are six curates and chapels in the city and its district. The city of Potosi is 45 miles west-south-west of La Plata.

The celebrated mines of Potosi are in the same mountain on which the city is built. This mountain is three miles in circumference, and is of a sharp conical figure, rising to the height of 4360 feet above the plain, and is known by the name of Hatun Potocsi; its summit is crowned by a bed of porphyry, which gives it the well defined conical form it possesses. This famous mine has caused the destruction of thousands of human beings, for in the latter end of the 16th century, 15,000 Indians were constantly forced to work in it; but at present, there are not more than 2000 miners, who are well paid, and usually work from choice alone; 15,000 llamas and 15,000 asses, are constantly employed in carrying the ore to the amalgamation works in the city. The mint of Potosi coined in 1790, 299,246 piastres of gold, and 3,293,173 of silver, or 886,620l. sterling. From the discovery of these mines, till the year 1803, they have supplied 1,095,500,000 piastres, or 237,358,334l. sterling, which has paid the royal duties; and this also only includes silver, consequently the gold and smuggled metals must have swelled the total furnished by the works to a much greater amount. At present, the minerals are poor, and their abundance only causes the Spaniards to work them; but according to Helms, if they were properly managed, they would still produce from twenty to thirty millions of dollars yearly. The mountain is perforated by about 300 rude shafts; and the numerous furnaces which surround it, form at night a very singular spectacle. Potosi is distant from its metropolis, Buenos Ayres, 1873 miles across a road, which for 400 miles, lies over a rocky mountainous country, very difficult to pass.

The annual produce of this mountain at present, is not more than five or 600,000 marcs of silver (each marc being two-thirds of a pound). The richest shafts or workings are in the north-side of the mountain, and are named, La Descubridora, Del Estaño, La Rica, and La Mendieta, their direction running south.

Other causes occasionally conspire to render the vicinity of these mines more populous than the mere riches they contain; as some hot medicinal baths are found here, called Don Diego, to which many people from the neighbouring towns resort; there is also a great concourse of peasants and merchants to the city, to supply it with provisions, &c., with which articles the district around it is totally unprovided.

The district of Tomina begins about eighteen leagues south-east of La Plata, and borders eastward on the Chiriguanos, a nation of independent Indians; it is twenty-four leagues in length from north to south, and seventy in circumference, containing a mountainous country, in the valleys of which there are some sugar plantations, and in its higher parts, it feeds large and small cattle and horses. The climate is in general hot, and in some of the valleys excessively so.

The rivers which water Tomina are small and unite into one stream, named El Dorado, and it is separated from Santa Cruz de la Sierra, by the Rio Grande, which joins the Mamore. There are some small lakes in this province, two of which are in a district, named Mayocaya.

In this province, the inhabitants who are mostly Indians, amount to 12,000, and the town of the same name, is fifty-five miles east of La Plata, in 19° 10' south latitude, and 65° 46' west longitude, but is inconsiderable; the vicinity of the warlike Indians, rendering the province an insecure place of abode.

The town of Porco or Talavera de la Puna, in 19° 40' south latitude, and 67° 56' west longitude, is the capital of the province of Porco, which commences on the west side of the town of Potosi, and extends twenty leagues.

The coldness of its situation, amid the high ridges of the Andes, occasions a scarcity of fruits and grain; but it abounds with fine cattle, and the mountain of Porco in this province is celebrated, as having been the place from whence the Incas of Peru drew the greater part of their silver, and was the first mine worked by the Spaniards after the conquest; the district still producing great quantities of that metal, particularly at Tomahave, and the mines of the Porco mountain, which are twenty-three leagues from Chuquisaca.

The inhabitants amount to 22,000.

Thirty leagues south of La Plata, lies the province of Chichas y Tarija; it is a very fertile territory, and produces wheat, maize, oil, wine and fruits; it also contains excellent pastures, abounds in cattle, and has several gold and silver mines. The river Tipuanis, which flows on its eastern side, carries much gold in its sand, which the natives employ themselves in collecting.

The greatest extent of this province is thirty-five leagues, and the eastern parts are only separated from the independent tribes, by the above mentioned river. Its chief town is San Bernardo de Tarija, which was founded by Don Francisco de Toledo, to repel the incursions of the warlike Indians, and to defend the high road to Tucuman, in 1591. It has four convents and a college, formerly belonging to the Jesuits; in one of its convents, a cross is adored, which it is pretended, was found by the conquerors of Peru in a cave in this country; and that it was made by one of the Apostles, who had preached the Gospel to the Peruvians.

Joining Tarija, and on the south-west, is the province of Lipes which extends 35 leagues.

Its capital of the same name is 150 miles south-south-west of Potosi, in 21° 40' south latitude, and 68° 16' west longitude.

The climate of this country is excessively cold, and its chief commerce consists in the produce of its mines, of which it possesses two of gold, one of silver, and one of copper.

The silver mine of St. Christoval de Acochala was formerly the most valuable in Peru, but at present is not worked owing to the want of hands. Lipes abounds in cattle, and with vicunas, alpacas and llamas, the high chain of the Andes pervading this province.

Amparaes or Yamparaes is a district to the east of La Plata, and bounds the province of Santa Cruz de la Sierra. Its productions are chiefly grain in its warm plains, and cattle on its high lands and cold districts.

Oruro, or San Felipe de Oruro, is a city thirty leagues north-west of La Plata, and capital of a jurisdiction or province of the same name. The greater part of this country lying on the Andes is exceedingly cold and barren, producing only herbage for the pasture of cattle and sheep, with numerous herds of Peruvian camels. It contains many gold and silver mines which were formerly very famous, but most of them have been abandoned, though the mountains of Popo still yield much silver. The capital has five convents, and four churches, and is a populous place, with a revenue office for collecting the duties on the metals.

Pilaya y Paspaya, or Cinti, is a province lying forty leagues south of La Plata and bounded on the north by Tomina and Pomabamba, on the east by the Chiriguanos Indians, and on the west and south by Porco and Chichas. Its length is about thirty leagues and its width forty, and this province is intersected in all directions, by the Cordillera, among whose breaches and valleys its inhabitants are settled. They are dispersed in different estates, and amount to 12,000. The climate in the valleys is moderately hot, and the soil very productive. The grapes of this district are made into wine and brandies, which are much esteemed in the neighbouring provinces, and the river San Juan which rises in Lipes, pervades this country. The Toropalca and the Cinti also fertilise the valleys through which they run, and the Supas and Agchilla form, by their united streams, the Paspaya which divides the province from Pomabamba, and runs into the Pilcomayo.

The towns of Pilaya and Paspaya were destroyed by the incursions of the Indians from the east, so that the corregidor resides on an estate in the fertile valley of Cinti; but there are some abundant lead mines in the settlement of Pototaca.

The province of Chayantas begins fifty leagues north-west of La Plata, extending for about forty leagues. This district is famous for its silver mines, of which it contains three, with one of copper, one of tin, and two of lead; and the Rio Grande which flows through it deposits auriferous particles in its bed. The cattle in this province are barely sufficient to feed the inhabitants, who are not numerous.

Adjoining to Chayantas is the province of Paria, which is bounded by that of Pacajes on the north, on the north-east, by Oruro, east and south-east by Porco, south-west by Lipes, and west by Caranjas. It contains several silver mines, and, lying among the mountains, is of a cold temperature.

There are also some salt mines in it, and a small lake from which that article is extracted.

A rapid river rising in lake Chucuito, runs through this province, and is called the Desaguadero, or drain, forming a lake four leagues long and two wide. The river ends in this basin, which has given rise to various conjectures concerning the manner in which the water finds a vent, as the lake is always of the same level; but in one part of it is a whirlpool which sucks down any rafts that get within its vortex. In the year 1748 this singular lake rose to a great height.

The inhabitants of Paria amount to 10,000, and employ themselves in farming; and the cheeses of this district are much sought after.

Its capital of the same name is 210 miles north-west of La Plata, in 18° 50' south latitude, and 68° 20' west longitude.

The province of Caranjas commences 70 leagues west of La Plata, and extends above 50 leagues on the west bank of Lake Paria. The Andes pervading this district, the climate is very cold, and it produces no grain, but has abundant pastures for cattle, vicunas, &c. There are also many silver mines, two of which are very productive, and one of copper is worked.

A singular silver ore is found in the mines of Turco, which consists of beautiful fibres, penetrating the mass of stone in which they are contained. In the sandy desert parts of Caranjas that extend towards the Pacific are discovered lumps of native silver, which are called Papas, or potatoes, because they are dug out of the ground like that root.

These lumps have the appearance of melted silver, and many of them have been found weighing as much as 150 marcs, and more than a foot in length. The capital of this province, which is not populous, is a small town of the same name, on a rivulet which flows into the southern extremity of Lake Paria.

The city of Oropesa is the capital of a province named Cochabamba, of about 40 leagues in extent, which is bounded by Sicasica on the north-west, La Paz on the west, Chayantas on the south, and Charcas, or La Plata, and Santa Cruz de la Sierra on the east, and lying 50 leagues south-east of Plata. It possesses one gold mine, and several of silver, but they are not productive. The chief wealth of this province is in its agricultural produce, as it is fertilized by so many rivers and streams, that it yields immense harvests of grain, &c. From this circumstance it has obtained the appellation of the granary of Peru. The climate is in general mild and healthful.

The Rio Grande is its principal river, which rises in the Andes, west of the district of Sicasica.

Oropesa, the capital, is a very considerable place; it is seated on a small river, which is one of the streams of the Rio Grande, in a beautiful and fertile valley; and the chief occupation of its inhabitants, consists in supplying the neighbouring provinces with fruits and grain. It is 150 miles north-west of La Plata, in 18° 15' south latitude, and 67° 6' west longitude.

The province of Sicasica is a very extensive tract, of nearly a hundred leagues in length, and contains some silver mines, two of which are worked. The far greater part of this district lies among the mountains, and it has Cochabamba to its west, Oruro to the south, Paria to the east, and La Paz to the north. Those parts which consist of plains or valleys, are extremely hot, and produce great quantities of coca or betel, with which the neighbouring provinces are supplied. The mountains feed large herds of cattle, and flocks of vicunas, guanucos, &c.; and, the capital is Sicasica, 40 miles north-north-west of Oruro.

Pomabamba is a province bounded on the north by Tomina; east by the lands of the independent tribes; west by Porco and Amparaes, and south by Pilaya y Paspaya. It is about 24 leagues in length, and has no other town than its capital, the inhabitants being dispersed in their plantations.

Its population is only 3000 souls, who gain a scanty subsistence from their farms, which are often plundered by the Chiriguanos Indians. It has the river Parapeti on the north, and the Rio Nuevo on the east, which separates it from the Indian territories.

The capital of the same name is on the shore of the Parapeti, in 19° 55' south latitude, and 64° 8' west longitude, nine miles east of La Plata.

The province of La Paz lies north of Sicasica, and consists only of a small district round the city of the same name, in the vicinity of the western Cordillera of the Andes. The produce of this country is barley, coca or betel, and papas. It is chiefly noted for the city of La Paz, or Chuquiavo, or Pueblo Nuevo, which was first founded by Mayta Capac, the fourth Inca, who subdued this country; but the Spaniards thinking this an advantageous place, as a post between Arequipa and La Plata, built the city under the presidency of Pedro de la Gasca, who ordered Alonzo de Mendoza to place it midway between Cuzco and Charcas, and to call it Neustra Senora de la Paz, in memory of the public tranquillity being settled by the defeat of Gonzalo Pizarro and his adherents. Accordingly a valley in the country, called Las Pacasas, was pitched upon, in which the city was begun, on the 8th of October 1548, the place abounding in cattle, grain, &c.

This city is in 17° 15' south latitude, and 68° 25' west longitude, and 120 miles east-south-east of Arequipa; 288 south-east of Cuzco; 612 south-east of Lima; and 234 west of Santa Cruz de la Sierra, on a fine river, which flows through the valley.

The adjacent Cordillera, which is only 12 leagues distant, is very high, and one of its summits, called Illimani, is covered with perpetual snow, which exposes the district to so cold a climate, that hard frosts, storms of hail, &c., are not uncommon. But the city is not subject to these, enjoying a salubrious air, and considerable heat.

The unequal ground on which La Paz is seated, the snow-clad mountains, the fertile valleys and the fine river give peculiar charms to its scenery. The inhabitants in the district around the city are mostly confined to the valley, as the higher grounds are covered with forests which afford shelter to bears, jaguars, pumas, &c.

They find some gold in the river, when it is increased by the melting of the snow, which forces large masses of rock from the mountain of Illimani. In 1730, an Indian discovered in this stream a lump of gold of such size, that it was bought for 12,000 piastres, and sent to the king.

La Paz has a fine cathedral and four churches, four convents, a college, three nunneries, and an hospital, and contains 20,000 inhabitants, who are chiefly engaged in trading in Paraguay tea. A late traveller represents it to be an elegant and clean place.

It is a bishop's see, whose revenues are very considerable.

This city had formerly the five following provinces or districts under its jurisdiction, and its bishop still holds ecclesiastical sway over them; viz. Omasuyos, Pacages, Laricaxas, Chucuito and Paucarcolla.

The district of Omasuyos begins at the gates of La Paz, and extends 20 leagues, being bounded on the west by lake Chucuito or Titicaca. Its climate is very cold, so that it produces little corn; but its pastures feed a great number of cattle; and it has four gold mines. It is chiefly inhabited by Indians. Near the borders of this province is the town or village of Tiahanuaco, in which are colossal pyramids and gigantic figures cut out of stone; and these, though much injured by the weather, are highly singular, and are conjectured to have existed before the times of the Peruvian Incas. This place is thirty-six miles north-west of La Paz, in south latitude 17° 17' and very near the south-east coast of lake Titicaca.

Unfortunately no traveller has given a detailed account of these images, which are supposed to be the most ancient and singular in America.

Pacajes is bounded on the north by Chucuito and the great lake; north-east, by Omasuyos; east, by La Paz and Sicasica; south, by Oruro, Paria and Carangas, and south-west and west, by the Peruvian province of Arica, which is separated from it by the lofty chain of the Andes.

Its length from the bridge over the river Desaguadaro, which divides it from Chucuito to the province of Paria, is fifty-six leagues, and its greatest width forty. From the neighbourhood of the Andes, its climate is cold, and its soil not very productive. Its inhabitants are dispersed in small settlements, and consist chiefly of Indians, who are employed in tending cattle and sheep, with which it abounds.

There were formerly several mines of silver and emeralds, but they are not worked at present. A mine of talc supplies the whole of Peru with plates of that substance to serve instead of window glass for the churches and houses.

Including Tiahanuaco, there are fifteen settlements in Pacajes, which has a capital of the same name, eighty miles south-west of La Paz, in a variable climate, and whose chief commerce consists in the sale of cattle to the neighbouring towns.

Laricaxas, north of La Paz, is a district which extends 240 miles from east to west, and 75 from north to south; it bounds that of Carabaya on the north, and most of its products are the same as those in that province. It contains many gold mines, the metal found in which is of a superior fineness, and four of these mines are in work. The mountain of Sunchuli in this province is celebrated as having been the situation of a gold mine which was discovered in 1709, and was worked with immense profit till 1756, when it was inundated by a spring which suddenly burst in it, and all attempts to get the water under have since proved in vain.

Chucuito commences twenty leagues west of La Paz, and borders the western shore of lake Titicaca. The extent of this province from north to south is about twenty-eight leagues, its climate, from the high mountains of which it is composed, is cold, and its chief trade consists in the cattle which are pastured in its elevated plains.

The Andes in this province contain many veins of silver, but none of them are worked at present, and the great lake Chucuito takes its name from this district; it is supplied with water from ten or twelve large rivers, and has no other outlet than by the Desaguadero, which flows from it into lake Paria, and is there lost. It abounds with fish, though its waters are bitter and brackish, and numbers of geese and other wild fowl frequent its shores, which are covered with strong flags or rushes of which the bridges in the country are constructed.

It contains many islands, one of which, Titicaca, was formerly a mountain, but was levelled by the Incas. This island gave the lake one of its names, Titicaca signifying Leaden Mountain; and Manco Capac having first appeared here, the succeeding Incas raised a temple of the sun in memory of the event.

This temple was one of the most splendid in the empire, and contained the greatest riches, owing to the obligation which all the Peruvians were under of visiting it, and depositing an offering on the shrine. On the conquest of the country by the Spaniards it is said all these riches, and even the walls of the temple itself, were thrown into the lake.

Towards the south part of the lake the banks approach each other, and form a bay, which terminates in the Rio Desaguadero, or the Drain, and over this river is a bridge of rushes, invented by Capac Yupanqui, the fifth Inca, in order to transport his army across the stream, which is between eighty and one hundred yards in breadth, flowing with an impetuous under current, though its surface is smooth. The Inca caused four large cables to be made of the long grass which grows on the high Paramos or deserts of the Andes, two of these were stretched across the stream, bundles of dry rushes or flags from the borders of the lake were laid across them, and fastened together; on these the other two cables were laid, and they were again covered with other bundles of flags, smaller than the first and firmly fastened together in such a manner as to form a level surface, and over this marched the Peruvian army to the conquest of Charcas.

This bridge, which is five yards broad, and one and a half above the river, is repaired or rebuilt, as circumstances require, every six months, in pursuance of a law made by the Incas, and followed up by the Spanish government, on account of its great utility.

The island Titicaca contains several settlements, and, among others, that of Copacavana, celebrated for its sanctuary of Nuestra Senora de Copacavana. The island produces fruits, flowers and vegetables, pastures much cattle, and in its woods are found wild rabbits and pigeons.

The Indians navigate this lake on balsas or rafts, supported by inflated skins, and carry on by this means a considerable commerce with the towns on the banks.

Chucuito, a small town on the banks of the lake, is the capital of this province, which contains, as do the shores in general, many settlements, villages and towns.

Paucarcolla, the last of the old provinces of La Paz, is bounded on the north-east by the lake; east by the same and Chucuito; north by Lampa; west by Moquehua in Peru; and south by Pacajes and Arica, also in Peru. It is eighty-six leagues long, and twenty-eight broad, and is watered by several streams flowing into the lake, of which the Rio Suches and the Taraco are the largest.

The climate is generally cold, and in the parts bordering on Lake Titicaca are cultivated Peruvian bark, papas, barley, &c. The chief occupation of the inhabitants consists in breeding cattle, sheep, pigs and llamas, and there are many vicunas, deer, partridges and lake fowl, which are caught or killed by the natives; the lake also supplies fish, and by means of it the Indians carry dressed hides, thread, &c., and take in exchange wines, brandies and other commodities from the adjacent districts. They fabricate their clothing and other articles from the wool of the Peruvian camel, and carry on a considerable traffic in that article.

The capital was formerly the present settlement of the same name, but it was transferred to that of Huancane, till the discovery of the mines of Laicacota, when that large village became the chief town; since that time it has again changed, and is now seated at Puna, from whence the whole province is sometimes called.

Cancharani and San Josef, two mountains in this district, contain rich veins of silver, which have been worked with great effect; on the north of these is the mountain Del Azogue, or of quicksilver, which was formerly worked to such advantage that it exceeded the produce of the celebrated mines at Guancavelica: but the government suspended the operations at this place from some political motives.

The furnaces in the mines of this province are supplied by the natives, who breed cattle, with cow-dung, to serve as fuel, which is used instead of wood, on account of the scarcity of that article, and proves a good substitute.

The inhabitants of this province amount to more than 26,000 souls, dispersed in fifteen settlements and towns.

Paucarcolla, the old capital, is situated on the banks of Lake Titicaca, and inhabited by a few Spanish families. The Inca Yupanqui, third emperor of Peru, added this place to his territories, the natives submitting voluntarily.

Puna, the present capital, stands on the shores of the lake in 16° 20' south latitude, 70° 26' west longitude, and is a rich and populous place, containing many illustrious families, with a beautiful church for the whites, and another for the Indians. The mines in the neighbourhood of this town were among the richest in Peru, but were abandoned on the death of their owner, who built the Spanish church. It is, however, said, that the rich mines of Salcedo or Laycacota are again in work. Puna is fourteen miles north-west of Chucuito.

The remaining districts towards the Peruvian frontier, and which were under the jurisdiction of the audience of Cuzco, until the formation of the new kingdom of Buenos Ayres, are Asangaro, Carabaya and Lampa.

Asangaro or Asangaro y Asila, is bounded on the north-east and east, by Carabaya, south-east and south by Laricaxa, south-west by Paucarcolla and lake Chucuito, and west and north-west by Lampa. It is sixty miles in length and as many in breadth, containing about 3000 inhabitants.

As it lies almost entirely on the Andes, which are here very high, its climate is cold, and the soil produces little else than grass to pasture the cattle, in which its trade consists. Papas, quinoas, and canaguas, grow plentifully in its plains; of the two last, the natives make an intoxicating liquor common in Peru, called chica, which is nearly the same as the spirit procured in Mexico from maize; and chica is also the principal beverage of the Indians inhabiting the Andes.

The chief towns of the same name are mere villages, but near Asila is a lead mine, which has been very productively worked; and in the parts of this province bordering on Carabaya, there are several silver mines, three of which are worked.

Carabaya is bounded on the north by the Peruvian frontier, east by the country of the independent Indians, and west and south by Asangara. The extreme parts of this province are sixty leagues from Cuzco, and its greatest extent is more than fifty leagues; but lying in a mountainous region, its climate is generally cold, though some of its valleys enjoy heat enough to mature the coca or betel; and it abounds in grain, vegetables, and rich pastures, which feed numerous herds of cattle. Carabaya contains silver and gold mines in great numbers, one of the former and two of the latter being in work.

The river which separates it from the Indian countries, contains much gold in its sand; and the Indians of Peru are said to come down in companies to this river, in order to collect sufficient metal to pay the capitation tax.

In the village of Poto is an office for collecting the royal duties on the mines, and the most famous lavaderos or washing places, are San Juan del Oro, Pablo Coya, and Monte de Anauca, two leagues from Poto.

The greatest gold mine is that of Aporama; the metal being twenty-three carats fine.

Carabaya, or San Juan del Oro, is the capital of this province, 150 miles south-east of Cuzco, in 14° 40' south latitude, and 69° 36' west longitude.

Lampa is bounded on the north and west by the Peruvian frontier, and on the south and east by Chucuito and Asangaro. It lies on the ridge named the Chain of Vilcanota, which separates Buenos Ayres from Peru; and its climate, though generally cold, is healthy. It carries on a considerable trade in cattle; and its silver mines are very numerous, but only two are worked to advantage.

The capital is a town of the same name, ninety miles south of Cuzco; in the vicinity of which are the richest mines of the province.

This town is in 14° 55' south latitude, and 81° 44' west longitude.

Pucara, a village in this province, is remarkable as containing the ruins of a fort built by the Peruvians, having two large stone reservoirs within it; some of the stones of which are three yards long and two broad, and not far from this fort is a fountain of warm water.

Having now described the northern and Andean districts or provinces of Charcas or La Plata, we must turn to those which lie on the coast of the Pacific, on the east, and those towards Paraguay on the west.

The viceroyalty of Buenos Ayres enjoys the advantage of possessing a province on the shores of the Great Southern Ocean, which, though at present nearly desert, may one day become of great importance. This province named Atacama, is bounded on the north by Arica in Peru, on the west by the Pacific or South Sea, on the north-east by Lipes, south-east by the government of Tucuman, and south by Copiapo, in the kingdom of Chili. It is divided into High and Low Atacama, and is of great extent, some parts of it being very fruitful, but intermixed with deserts, particularly towards the south, where there is an immense tract of untenanted land, which divides La Plata from Chili. The sea-coast of this province, is noted for the numerous fisheries established on it, and which supply a large fish, called Tolo, that forms the chief food of the inland districts of La Plata during Lent.

The inhabitants of Atacama are chiefly Indians, those who live in the settlements, amounting only to 2500.

Its chief town is Atacama, in a barren plain, surrounded by the lofty summits of the Cordillera, which are uninhabited, owing to the intense cold. This town is a small place, 100 miles from the South Sea, and 120 leagues from La Plata, in 23° 30' south latitude, and 69° 30' west longitude.

Crossing towards the east from this western boundary of Buenos Ayres, we find the provinces of Apolabamba, Santa Cruz de la Sierra, Chiquitos, Moxos and Chacos.

Apolabamba is bounded on the east by the province of Moxos, and on the west by Carabaya, commencing about sixty leagues from Cuzco in Peru, and extending eighty leagues from south-west to north-east. The country is mountainous, and intersected with rocks and precipices, consequently the roads are very rugged and difficult.

The principal cultivation consists in rice, maize, plantains, &c., which are the common food of the inhabitants. In the plains or valleys, some cacao and cotton are raised, but more grows wild than in plantations, and the forests are numerous and filled with wild beasts and monkeys of every kind. The people carry their produce to La Paz, where they procure what is necessary for their comforts.

Apolabamba is a newly planted colony, and consists mostly of settlements of Indians, who have been converted by the Franciscan missionaries. Seven villages are in a flourishing condition, and in order to defend these from the incursions of the surrounding tribes, the inhabitants are formed into a militia, governed by a Spanish officer.

Santa Cruz de la Sierra is a very large province including several districts; it is, as its name indicates, a mountainous country, and little inhabited by Spaniards, the chief places being the missions, which were first planted by the Jesuits. It borders on, or rather contains in its government, the countries of the Chiquitos, Guaranis, and other tribes, among whom a few missions are settled.

Its climate is warm, and the chief trade of its settlers consists in honey and wax.

The capital is Santa Cruz de la Sierra, eighty or ninety leagues east from La Plata. It was originally built farther to the south near the Cordillera of the Chiriguanos and was founded in 1548 by De Chaves; but the city having been destroyed, it was rebuilt on its present scite: it is however a place of little importance, though erected into a bishopric in 1605, the chapter consisting only of the bishop, dean, and archdeacon. The usual residence of the bishop is at Mizque Pocona, which is the chief town of a large district of the same name. This latter city, which is 100 miles south-south-west from Santa Cruz, is a small place in a valley about eight leagues in circumference, producing all kinds of grain and fruits, and in a warm climate; the woods and mountains affording large quantities of honey and wax, which constitutes a principal branch of the trade of the place.

There is also a lake two leagues in extent near this town, and the district of Mizque is the most populous part of the province.

The Rio Grande de La Plata is the finest river of Santa Cruz; it rises in some small lakes on the south, and running through the province into that of Moxos, enters the Piray by a broad mouth, and forms a good port at Pailas, north of the capital.

The province of Chiquitos lies to the north and east of Santa Cruz de la Sierra, and embraces an immense extent of territory, which reaches to the Brazilian frontier on the Paraguay.

It was first colonized by the Jesuits who began their missionary establishments in this country towards the close of the seventeenth century, and their success was so great that in 1732 they had seven settlements, each containing more than 600 families. The Indians who inhabit Chiquitos are small-sized, active and brave, and have always resisted the endeavours of the Portuguese to carry off members of their community to slavery; many of them live peaceably in the missions, but others lead a wandering life amid the mountains and plains of their native land.

The forests in this country produce the cinchona, or Jesuit's bark, and many other useful substances; and the great inundation of the Paraguay, called Lake Xarayes, extends through the western parts of this province, which is also celebrated for containing the third great branch of the Andes, that leaves the main body between 15° and 20° of south latitude, and crossing the provinces of the Sierra sweeps round Chiquitos, between 15° and 23°, stretching from La Paz, Potosi and Tucuman, through Moxos, Chiquitos and Chaco, towards the government of the mines, and of St. Pablo in Brazil. The highest summits of this chain appear to be between 15° and 20° of south latitude, giving rise to many rivers which flow either into the La Plata or the Maranon.

San Josef de Chiquitos, the chief settlement of this province, is thirty-six miles north-west of Santa Cruz; and south of the Chiquitos Indians, are another tribe, named the Chiriguanos, whom the missionaries have in vain attempted to convert; they are the terror of the western provinces of Buenos Ayres, and are continually at war with the Chiquitos. In their country flows the river Parapiti, which rising near Cochabamba in 18° south latitude, is first called Conderillo, and receiving smaller rivers, assumes the name of Parapiti, and passing through a large lake it turns to the north; having pursued hitherto a south-east course into this lake, which is in 19° 50' south latitude. It is now called St. Miguel, and still running north assumes the name of Sara, and being joined by the united streams of the Piray and Plata, as well as several others from the province of Santa Cruz, it becomes a broad river, and in 14° south latitude, is called the Mamore, till 10° south latitude, when it leaves Peru or La Plata, and entering the Portuguese territories becomes the Madera, continuing under that name to south latitude, 3° 15', and 60° 40' west longitude, when it discharges its immense stream into the Maranon, after a course of 1400 miles.

Moxos or Mojos is an extensive territory bounded by the Portuguese government of Matto Grosso on the east, Cuzco and the Peruvian provinces on the west, and Chiquitos and Santa Cruz on the south. It extends on each side of the Mamore, and is chiefly inhabited by warlike and wandering tribes of Indians, who forbid access to its interior. This country contains the lake Rogagualo, a large body of water of an oval figure, formed by an arm of the Rio Beni, which rises near La Paz on the west side of the Andes, in 18° south latitude, and flowing north, enters the Ucayale, their united streams joining the Apurimac. The banks of the Beni have many settlements of the missionaries. This lake empties itself into the Mamore by a channel called De la Exaltacion, thus forming an immense island of the country lying between the Maranon on the north, the Madera and Mamore on the east, and the Beni and Ucayale on the west. From lake Rogagualo three other rivers take their rise and flow into the Amazons on the north; viz. the Jutay, the Juruay and the Puros.

There are several missionary villages in the province of Moxos: but the country is still under the power of the aborigines.

Chacos is another large territory, bounded by Chiquitos on the north; Paraguay on the east; the great plains of Manos on the south; and Tucuman and Tarija on the west. It is of immense extent, and chiefly inhabited by tribes of wandering Indians, having on its east the great chain of mountains on the banks of the Paraguay, and contains the great Rio Pilcomayo, which flows into the Paraguay near Asuncion.

The Jesuits made several attempts to colonise Chaco, but did not succeed, and little is known concerning its products or features.

The adjoining government to Los Charcas, which has now been described as fully as the nature of the work would admit, is,—

THE GOVERNMENT OF PARAGUAY.

Paraguay is a very extensive government of Buenos Ayres, which is bounded by Chiquitos, Chacos, and Tucuman on the north-west and west; on the north it extends to Lake Xarayes; north-east and east it bounds the Portuguese territories; and south-east and south it is limited by the Parana, which separates it from the missions of Guayra in Buenos Ayres, its jurisdiction ending in the south of the city of Asuncion, in 26° 48' south latitude, and it is divided from Tucuman, or the Llanos de Manso, by the river Paraguay.

HISTORY, DISCOVERY, &c.

The history of this province commences with its discovery by Sebastian Cabot, in 1526, who sailed up the Parana. This navigator was the son of a Venetian pilot, who was much employed in England, and by some accounts is said to have been born at Bristol, in 1477, and having been brought up to the same profession, went with his father, John Cabot, to the discovery of Newfoundland, and from thence to Florida. They had the honour of being the first navigators who saw the continent of America, Columbus not having discovered it till a year afterwards. Sebastian, after this voyage, made another to Hispaniola and Puerto Rico, in the service of Henry VII. of England, and reached the coast of Brazil, but was hindered from exploring it by the timidity of his coadjutor Sir Thomas Pert.

Owing to some opposition on his return to England, he went to Spain, and offered his service to the king; his request was graciously attended to, and on account of his great skill, he was appointed pilot-major of the kingdom, an office of great honour in those days. In 1524, the Spanish merchants entered into a treaty with Cabot, to command an expedition to the Moluccas, which was to pass through the newly-discovered streights of Magalhaens. He undertook this voyage, and proceeded to the coast of Brazil, coasting it southward from the bay of Todos los Santos, till he arrived at the river La Plata, where he landed three of his chief officers, who had mutinied, on a desert island, and being unable, from want of provisions and the bad behaviour of his crew, to proceed farther to the south, he sailed thirty leagues up the river, and discovered an island, which he called San Gabriel; three leagues higher up he saw a large river, and named it San Salvador; here he landed his people, and built a fort, from which advancing in his boats he discovered another river, thirty leagues distant, called Zarcacana by the natives, on the banks of which he constructed another fort, and named it Santi Spiritûs.

He afterwards explored the river Parana, and sailing up it entered the Paraguay, where he found the natives tilling the ground. These people opposed his landing and in a skirmish with them he lost twenty-five men who were killed and three who were taken prisoners. Cabot wintered, however, in this country, and was joined by another adventurer, Jayme Garcia, who had been sent from Europe to explore the river, and returning together to the fort Santi Spiritûs, they dispatched a vessel with an account of their discoveries to Spain.

So long were the ministry in sending the necessary supplies to Cabot, that, tired of waiting, he returned to Spain, after an absence of five years, in the year 1531: but not being well received at court, he continued a few years in the Spanish service, and returned to England in the latter end of the reign of Henry VIII. In the following reign he was made grand pilot of England, with a pension of 166l. 13s. 4d. per annum; a sum in those times equal to 1000l. at present.

During the reign of Edward, and that of Philip and Mary, many privileges were granted to Cabot; he was made governor of the Russian company, and had the management of the expedition which sailed under Sir Hugh Willoughby to the North Seas.

The variation of the compass was first observed by this celebrated man, though Ferdinand Columbus in the life of his father, printed at Venice, in Italian, in 1571, asserts, that the admiral first noticed it on the 14th of September 1492. Cabot published a large map of his discoveries in North America, which was hung up in the gallery at Whitehall. He also wrote an account of his voyage in the North American seas, in Italian, which was printed at Venice in 1583 in one volume folio; and is very scarce.

Juan de Ayolas followed up the discoveries of Cabot in Paraguay, having had a commission, troops, and stores given him, in 1536, for that purpose, by Don Pedro de Mendoza, the first governor of Buenos Ayres.

By the orders of Ayolas, Juan de Salinas founded the city of Asuncion, but the conquest of the natives being attended with much difficulty, and Ayolas and his party having been murdered by them, Alvar Nuñez Cabeza de Vaca, the second governor of Buenos Ayres, undertook their subjugation in person. He had arrived with 400 men to take the chief command, in case of the death of Ayolas, and finding that this event had happened, he collected all the settlers in Buenos Ayres, and detaching Irala, who had acted as governor before his arrival, into the interior, with ninety men, to report on the state of the country, was so satisfied with what he had seen, that he set out with 200 Spaniards, and 1200 Guarani Indians, and entered Paraguay; but meeting with reverses, owing to the mutinous conduct of his troops, who were corrupted by Irala, he was forced to return, when he was deposed and sent to Spain; Irala then assumed the chief command, and by his conduct soon reduced the natives, and rendered the Spanish settlements secure.

The Indians were parcelled out to the conquerors, and in 1547, the city of Asuncion was erected into a bishopric.

Much cruelty was practised towards the unfortunate natives, till the arrival of the first bishop of Paraguay, in 1554, who brought with him laws and regulations for their protection; but however wise and humane these ordinances were, they did not totally restrain the colonists from ill using their vassals; and it being found that Paraguay and the territories then discovered, were not sufficient to supply Indians enough to work in the plantations, Parana or Guayra was conquered, and the city of Ciudad Real being founded, 40,000 of the natives were reduced to slavery; and in a few years after, the Spanish power was extended over Chiquitos, on the left of Paraguay, where 60,000 of the natives were compelled to labour for the profit of their employers.

The year 1556 was a new era for the aborigines, as in that epoch the Jesuits made their appearance in Paraguay, and taking a method directly contrary to that of the conquerors, they reduced the natives by the arts of persuasion alone. They showed them how industry would conduce to their comfort; and having, by an uniform course of mildness and conciliation, reclaimed them from their native woods and wandering way of life, they settled them in towns and villages, which soon increased and flourished under their guidance.

The number of these settlements was astonishing, and so completely had these priests gained the affections of the natives, that their government and power was absolute and unlimited. The principal missions of the Jesuits, or rather the Jesuit government, was not however in Paraguay, but in Uruguay, an immense district of Buenos Ayres, on the south of the Parana; and in describing that country, some further account of their possessions will be given.

Their order being expelled from the Spanish dominions, in 1767, the countries they possessed in South America were divided into governments, and priests of other orders were appointed to take charge of the ecclesiastical affairs.

Climate, productions, features, &c.—The climate of Paraguay is in general moist and temperate, though in some parts it is cold, and white frosts are common in those places in July and August.

The temperate parts abound with all kinds of grain, beans, pease, melons, cucumbers, and European vegetables; asparagus is found wild, and there is a remarkably fine sort of vine, of which good and healthy wine is made, magueys, sugar-cane, maize, from which the Indians make their favourite drink; potatoes, a fruit resembling the almond, which produces an excellent oil; the European fruits; tobacco, and cinchona, or Jesuit's bark, sarsaparilla, rhubarb, jalap, sassafras, guiacum, dragon's blood, cupay, whose oil is used in medicine, nux vomica, vanilla, cacao, the timbabi, supplying a fine yellow gum, which is run into moulds, and formed into beads, necklaces, crosses, &c. Cedar, the curi or pine, from whose red knots, which contain a varnish, the Indians make images; the algarrobo, or carob tree, which is converted into bread, and the Paraguay tea or matté, a plant which rises about a foot and a half high, with slender branches, and leaves something like those of senna; of this there are two kinds, one called Paraguay, the other Caamina, or Yervacamini, which last sells for one-third more than the other.

So useful is this western tea, that the mines would stand still, if the owners were to neglect to supply the workmen with it; and every person in Peru, Chili, and Buenos Ayres, consider themselves wretched, if not able to procure it; two millions of piastres worth of this herb, being sold from the province of Paraguay every year. It is infused and made nearly in the same way as Chinese tea, excepting that the branches are put in with the leaves, and that it is drank out of the vessel it is made in, through a silver or glass pipe, as soon as possible; as if it stays too long, it is supposed not to be good. The smell, and colour of this drink, is nearly as fine as that of the best Indian teas.

The pomegranate, peach, fig, lemon and orange, flourish in Paraguay, as do the cocoa-nut and other palms. The native fruits have among them the jujuba, the chanar, the yacani, the quabira, from which candles are made for the churches; the quembe yielding a delicious pulp; the mammon growing on the trunk of a tree, and resembling a melon; the tatay, having a fruit like the mulberry; the alaba, with a delicious fruit; the anguay, whose pips are of a rich violet colour and triangular shape, are used by the Indian women for necklaces; the tarumay resembling the olive; the molle, yielding a fragrant gum; the bacoba, banana, anana, manioc, the cotton tree, which grows to a great size and is very common; the zevil, whose bark is used in tanning; the ceibo, with flowers of a purple colour; the izapa, whose leaves distil a copious supply of water; the ant-tree, which is the chosen resort of these insects; the umbu, with an immense and spreading head; the willow; the ambay, used in striking fire; the arucuy, a shrub yielding a strong scarlet dye; indigo, cochineal, nacalic, whose beautiful yellow is used by dyers and painters, and reeds of great size, besides an infinite number of other trees and plants, all useful in their kind, and an immense assemblage of beautiful flowers.

The wild animals of Paraguay are chiefly found in the mountain regions bordering on the Great River, and on Brazil, where the forests are of impenetrable thickness. The jaguar, the puma or the cougar, and the black bear, are large and very fierce, destroying the cattle whenever they are exposed to their ravages. The ant-bear is a common animal, feeding principally on ants, which it catches, by placing its long tongue on their nests; and the tapir, the water-pig, or capibara, the river-cavies, and various other amphibious animals, frequent its numerous rivers. Mosquitos and other venomous insects are the great plagues of this fine country, and about twenty kinds of serpents, of which, the rattle-snake is the most common, and the boa constrictor the largest, frequent its woods and plains.

In Paraguay, the bird tribes are also very numerous, and possess the charms of song and beauty of plumage, in a degree equal, if not superior to those of any part of South America. Of these, nine different kinds of the humming-bird alone have been enumerated.

But the largest bird seen in the plains of Paraguay, is the great cassowary or American ostrich, remarkable for its immense size, fine plumage, and swift motion.

The fertility of Paraguay is proverbial, and though no mines are worked in it, it is one of the most opulent governments of Buenos Ayres, on account of its various vegetable productions, and the immense herds of horses, mules, cattle and sheep, which pasture on its extensive plains.

Of this government, the southern parts are those which are best known and most inhabited; the northern bordering on the Brazilian frontiers, and reaching to the great inundation of the Paraguay, have been little explored, and are tenanted only by the aborigines and wild animals.

The great features of this country are the numerous rivers, swamps, lakes, plains and woods, with which it abounds. Its largest and most noted rivers being the Paraguay, the Parana, the Porrudos, Mbotely, Tobati, Ipane Piray in the north parts, and in the south the Cañabe and Tibiquari, the latter of which, divides the government from that of Buenos Ayres.

Commerce.—The trade of Paraguay consists in the export of its tea, tobacco, sugar, cotton, hides, tallow, wax, honey, cattle, horses, mules, wool, leather, &c. It is chiefly carried on by the river Paraguay; the journey to Buenos Ayres by land, being seldom performed excepting by couriers, who are then obliged to wade and swim over many rivers, and are exposed to the attacks of the wandering Indians, even the navigation of the Great River not being free from them; the Payaguas tribe often collecting sixty or seventy canoes, with five or six men in each, armed with long lances and clubs, who attack any vessel unprovided with the means of making resistance.

Peace has been made with these people, but they sometimes commit depredations, and the whole government is surrounded by nations equally inveterate and ferocious; on the west are the Tobas and Moscobies, on the south the Abipones, on the north the Guaycurus or Mbayas, and the Panaguas; but the east is free from any immediate neighbours of this description, though on the distant mountains in this quarter called Yerva, are the Monteses, who give great trouble to the people employed to collect the tea, which grows spontaneously in their vicinity. The Monteses also greatly annoy the Portuguese, who are constantly at variance with them. This tribe pushed its way lately across Cuyaba, and part of Matto Grosso, in Brazil, to make an incursion into the head settlements of Moxos, in order to open a path to plunder the country of Santa Cruz de la Sierra and La Paz.

These unsubdued Indians frequently attack the settlements of Paraguay, which has obliged the inhabitants to form a militia in order to repel their aggressions, which are always sudden, and at times when they are least expected. The forts of Paraguay are nineteen in number, and are generally near the river, which is also furnished with guard boats.

The number of Indian villages of the missions is very considerable; they are governed by magistrates, chosen from among themselves, and generally consist of stone or mud houses covered with tiles, having a large square in which is the priest's house, and a good church, the number of inhabitants in each being seldom less than 600, and often exceeding 2000, and the total population of Paraguay is estimated at 97,480 Indians and Spaniards or whites, of which the latter do not form much more than a twentieth part.

The only towns of importance are the capital, Asuncion, Villarica, Curuguaty, Concepcion and Neembucu.

Asuncion, or Nuestra Senora de la Asuncion, the capital, is situated on an angle made by the eastern bank of the river Paraguay, eighteen miles above the first mouth of the Pilcomayo, and forty-eight above that of the second, in 59° 35' west longitude, and 24° 47' south latitude; it was originally a small fort, built in 1538, which soon became a town, and was erected into a bishopric in 1547. Its population consists of 500 Spanish families, and several thousand Indians and mestizoes.

The adjacent country is rich and fertile, and the climate temperate; the trees around it are always in bloom, foliage, or fruit, and the rich pastures in its neighbourhood nourish abundance of cattle. It exports hides, sugar, tobacco and Paraguay tea; but the boats which trade to this place from the city of Buenos Ayres, take two or three months to ascend the river La Plata, though the only difficulty in navigating it is from the force of the descending current, as the winds generally blowing from the south are favourable for the passage.

Villarica is 100 miles north-east of Asuncion, in 25° 48' south latitude, and 56° 31' west longitude, and was founded in 1576, and contains 3000 inhabitants.

Concepcion, in 23° 23' south latitude, and 57° 16' west longitude, contains 1550 inhabitants, and was built in 1773.

Curuguaty, in 24° 28' south latitude, and 56° 54' west longitude, contains 2250 inhabitants, and was founded in 1715.

Neembucu was built in 1779, in 26° 52' south latitude, and 58° 11' west longitude, and is peopled by 1730 souls.

GOVERNMENT OF TUCUMAN.

The third government of Buenos Ayres is that of Tucuman, which is bounded on the north-east by Chichas and Lipes in Charcas, north-west and west by Atacama, west and south-west by Cuyo, or Cujo, south-east by the Pampas or territories inhabited by the Aucaes, Huarcas, or Pampas, Pihuenches, Puelches, Uncos and other unconquered tribes which wander over the plains and mountains adjacent to Chili. On the south-east, it has the jurisdiction of Santa Fé in Buenos Ayres, and on the east it has the uncultivated Llanos de Manso and the country of Chacos or Chaco Gualamba.

Its extent is from 22° to 33° 10' south latitude, its length 370 leagues, and its breadth 190 leagues from east to west.

Tucuman was united to the empire of Peru, in the reign of Vira Cocha, the eighth Inca, by the desire of the inhabitants, who probably intimidated by the conquest of the adjacent country of Charcas, sent messengers to beg to be admitted under the Peruvian government.

The Spaniards conquered this country after finishing the subjugation of Peru, and Diego de Roxas was the first discoverer in 1543, but it was not subdued till the president Pedro de la Gasca, sent Juan Nuñez de Prado in 1549, to establish settlements in Tucma or Tucuman. The inhabitants proving of a mild and peaceable nature, the expedition was unattended with any bloodshed, and four cities were immediately founded, namely, Santiago del Estero, San Miguel del Tucuman, Nuestra Senora de Talavera, and Cordova de la Nueva Andalucia; but these being found insufficient in so large a territory, Rioja, Santa, and Jujui or Xuxui were soon afterwards added; the Spaniards then divided it into three provinces, which they named after the nations they found in it, viz. Juries on the east, Diaguiras on the west, and Comichingones to the south; of which the Comichingones Indians dwelt in caves.

Climate, Features, &c.—The climate of Tucuman is hot in those parts farthest from the main chain and branches of the Andes, but in general the seasons are regular and the soil prolific and good; and as an instance of the healthiness of some parts of the country, it is stated that Louisa Truxo, a negress, lived to the amazing age of 175, and was living on the 5th of October, 1780.

It produces all sorts of grain, esculent plants and fruits in abundance, with plenty of excellent pasture for the innumerable herds of cattle, mules, and horses it contains.

The forests, which overspread a great part of it, contain good timber for building, and which forms one great article of its trade, supplying Santa Fé, Buenos Ayres and its own towns with boards which are conveyed in carts drawn by oxen. It also supplies the timber so necessary in the mining operations at Potosi, and so dear is a peculiar hard wood of which axles for the wheels and engines are made, that 2000 dollars are given for a large axle, owing to the great labour and expence of transport. Box trees, laurels, pines, dragon trees, walnuts, palms and cedars, are a few of the useful plants of Tucuman; and cotton, vines, tobacco, cacao, cochineal, indigo and flax are also cultivated, but none of these articles enter into its export trade, which chiefly consists of cattle and timber; honey and wax are also plentifully produced in the forests.

In Tucuman, the desert places and woods abound with all kinds of game and wild animals, as pumas, jaguars, ant bears, bears, wild hogs, elks, deer, hares, rabbits, armadillos, guanucos, vicunas, and many other kinds. The American ostrich or cassowary frequents the plains, and innumerable birds are seen in its woods, &c. The immense boa, called in this country ampolaba, destroys the smaller animals which come within its reach, and appears, when lying among the grass, like the huge trunk of an old tree; besides the boa, there are also rattle-snakes, vipers and other reptiles common to warm climates.

In the rivers and lakes are found abundance of fish, tapirs, cavies, water-pigs, and other amphibious animals.

The great chain of the Andes, which borders and sends forth branches into Tucuman, is so high in some parts as to reach the regions of eternal snow; in it there are several mines, which were formerly worked by the Spaniards, and there remain striking vestiges of the mining operations carried on by the Peruvians.

The rivers of Tucuman are numerous, the principal ones being the Vermejo, the Salado, the Xuxuy, the Dulce and the Quarto. The Vermejo, or Rio Grande, rises near Casabinda, and flows with a stately stream into the La Plata, near Corrientes. The Salado takes its waters from many streams which flow down from the mountains of Tucuman, in south latitude 24°, and chiefly from those of the valley of Calchaqui, where it receives a large stream which comes from the south-west; it then runs into the valley of Huachipas, which name it takes, but soon changes it for that of Charomores, from a place so called; it then flows westward, and is called Pasage; as being in the road from Buenos Ayres to La Plata, it must be here crossed by travellers with some risk, owing to the rapidity of its current; it then is called De Balbuena, from passing through the settlement of that name, and is joined near this place by the Rio Piedras, and passes down through the district of Santiago del Estoro, from whence it runs eighty leagues, under the name of Salado, and loses itself eighty-six miles north-north-west of the city of Santa Fé, in a lake named El Mar Chiquito. The Chacos, or Dulce, runs by the side of this river, after it passes through Salta, and at last falls into it. Its whole course is 200 leagues, and it formerly reached Santa Fé, where it formed a peninsula with an arm of the La Plata, but having opened itself new channels by its great swellings, it now loses itself in the lake, which is the case with almost all the rivers of this province, as they generally form large sheets of water, from which they rarely issue.

The numerous lakes in this province are generally shallow, and produced by the overflowing of the rivers: but they have the singular quality of being mostly saline, particularly those in the neighbourhood of the Rio Vermejo.

There is in these vast plains through which the rivers pass an immense tract of land, the soil of which is saturated with fossil salt. It extends to the south of Buenos Ayres, and is about 700 miles in length by 150 in breadth. It is said that in this extent, which reaches to the Rio Vermejo, there is not a river, well or lake whose waters are not brackish. All the rivers which flow through it to the La Plata are fresh until they cross this waste, after which they become salt till they enter the great stream. Even the Pilcomayo and Vermejo, although they have a free course, have always a salt taste when the waters are low. This substance appears in the greatest abundance between Santa Fé and Cordova, and the salt quality of the soil reaches to St. Jago del Estero, where the whole ground is covered with a white incrustation even to the foot of the Cordillera.

Natural saltpetre is also collected in this part of the country, after a shower the ground being whitened with it. Chaco contains many salt lakes, and to the south-west of Buenos Ayres, they are found at from 400 to 450 miles distance. To these, journeys are frequently made with carts, in order to collect the fine crystallized grains which cover their banks.

The cattle of this country cannot subsist without this substance; they devour with avidity the salted clay they find in the ditches; and when this happens to fail, as is sometimes the case in Paraguay, they perish in the course of a short time.

From Buenos Ayres, the great road to Potosi and Lima passes through Tucuman. In 1748, regular stages were built all the way, post-houses were erected, and relays of horses and carriages provided.

The method of travelling is in covered waggons drawn by oxen or horses, in which the traveller can recline, and must necessarily exercise much patience: but the silver and gold from the mines, as well as all kinds of merchandize, are conveyed along this road on the backs of mules. Its extent from Buenos Ayres to Potosi, is 1617, or according to some accounts, 1873 miles, 400 of which are over the elevated chains of the Andes, and are impassable for the waggons; from Potosi to Lima the route continues 1215 miles more, and passes over the highest ridges of the mountains, where the traveller undergoes all sorts of danger and privations, and is exposed to the utmost extremes of heat and cold.

About the distance of 500 miles from Buenos Ayres, the country is one plain, covered only with cattle, horses and mules, and stretching to the horizon; the land then begins insensibly to rise, and in 500 miles more, the road lies over the branches of the chain of Chiquitos, to the town of Salta, where the grand and snow-covered tops of the central Andes present themselves. The thick woods of Tucuman are then lost; but the swarms of locusts, crickets, ants, mosquitoes, toads, frogs, serpents, and alligators, also disappear, the traveller having now entered the temperate region; the road then winds amid abrupt and frightful precipices and chasms, and sometimes with so narrow a footway that the mules can scarcely move.

The path is here indented with deep holes, in which the animals place their legs, and thus prevent the danger of slipping over the precipices; at other places where the road inclines at a great slope, these sagacious creatures place themselves with their fore and hind feet close together, and inclining forward, as if about to lie down, they slide with inconceivable velocity to the bottom.

These mountains in some parts are traversed at the bottom of narrow and perpendicular clefts, where, if the animal falls, his rider must infallibly be crushed.

The passage of the many torrents and rivers is also another difficulty; across those which are shallow, very large and high horses are used, which are trained for the purpose; over the deeper ones, rope bridges are thrown; and it is only in summer that this journey can be attempted, as the swelling of the rivers and the winter torrents render them impracticable. Even in summer, when the snow in the higher regions suddenly melts, the torrents are swoln to such a degree, and dash with such force from the mountains, that many an unhappy traveller perishes.

Mules constitute the great commerce of Tucuman; these animals are bought in Cordova, Santa Fé and Buenos Ayres, and being fattened during the winter in the valleys and plains, are driven to Peru, where they sell for twelve or seventeen dollars each, 50,000 being thus sold every year, and with them are driven from 14 to 16,000 cows. It also sends soap wrapped in hides to Peru; but the importation of all articles is subject to a toll, on passing the Peruvian frontier, the produce of which is applied to the pay of the troops, the repair of the forts, and the defence of the frontier against the unsubdued Indians; for there is not a government in all America so liable to the incursions of these tribes as Tucuman, as they surround it on the east and south; for which reason its population has not much increased, the settlers being continually liable to lose their property from these irruptions. Of the forts built for the protection of the government, there are at present thirteen; and the amount of the population, including the converted Indians, is 100,000.

That singular order, the Jesuits, had some missions in Tucuman, and formed about 24,000 of the natives into a militia, to repel the invasions of the Chaco Indians, of whom the Mataguayos are the most warlike; but the Indians of Tucuman at present are under the care of the monks of St. Francis, and are employed in cultivating maize, cotton, tobacco, &c., for their use, and those of the towns.

The capital and chief towns of this government are Tucuman, Cordoba, Rioxa, Jujuy, Santiago, Londres, and Salta, with thirty-eight other towns and villages, and ten missions.

Its capital, Tucuman, or San Miguel del Tucuman, is in 26° 49' south latitude, and 64° 36' west longitude, 1170 geographical miles in a direct line from Lima, 462 south of La Plata, and 200 miles east of Copiapo, in Chili; it was founded by Diego de Villaroel, in 1685, but placed in another situation, its present site, by the then governor, in 1680, on account of an inundation which swept away the church and houses. It is in a pleasant plain, though much in want of water, having a mild climate, producing abundance of fruits and grain, and containing a cathedral, a convent of Franciscans, one of La Merced, and a college, which was built by the Jesuits.

It has a trade in mules, but its principal traffic consists in oxen for the travelling waggons, and in the waggons themselves; there are also some unworked silver mines in its neighbourhood.

San Miguel is the see of a bishop who resides at Cordova. The bishopric is that of Tucuman, and was erected in 1570. In the jurisdiction which surrounds it, is found a tree, named Quebracho, on account of its great hardness, which often breaks the axe, and becoming, when steeped in water, as solid as stone. The salt river, Sali is about a league south of this city.

Cordoba, or Cordova de la Nueva Andalucia, is in 31° 30' south latitude, 63° 15' west longitude, 156 leagues from Buenos Ayres, at the foot of the Andes, and was founded, in 1550, by Juan Nuñez de Prado. The river Primero, so called because it is the first of five, is in its vicinity, and a hill of some height adjoins it, so that, although in the plain, the water easily passes off.

This city approaches a square form, with many good houses, a large but irregular cathedral, three convents, and two colleges. Few places of the same extent display equal wealth, the Spaniards and Creoles being noted for their industry. The chief trade is to the fair at Salta, in mules, where they are sold for Peru, and the town of Cordova contains many slaves, who weave and make their own cloths.

The bishop and chapter also reside here.

Wine and grain are brought from Mendoza in Cuyo, brandy in leathern bags from St. Juan de la Frontera, and meat and fruits are abundantly supplied in the neighbourhood. Cordova is the capital of a province or district of the same name, extending about 100 leagues in length, and seventy in breadth, intersected by a chain of mountains, and celebrated for its woollen manufactures.

The mountains which traverse this province are covered with perpetual snow, and at Ramauso, sixty miles from Cordova, they branch out, and are so far from each other that a saline plain, seventy miles in length, extends to Tucuman, in which nothing grows but the salsola kali, nearly four yards in height, amid the white incrustations of fossil salt.

The decayed city of St. Jago del Estero is in this plain, 650 miles north-north-west of Buenos Ayres, in 27° 46' south latitude, and 65° 12' west longitude, on the banks of the Dolce, which is large and navigable, and affords great variety of fish. It contains about 300 houses, or 500 families, of mulattoes and mestizoes, of a dark yellow complexion and sickly appearance, from the great heat of the climate; as surrounded on one side with the plain, and on the other with deep forests; the place suffers from a stagnation of the air. The women are subject to goitrous swellings, which much disfigure them, though they are generally handsome when not afflicted with this disease; and the country near the woods produces wheat, rice, barley, and all sorts of fruits, particularly figs and raisins; the forests supplying game, but are infested with jaguars and beasts of prey.

Rioxa, or Todos Santos de Rioja, is a small city, founded, in 1591, by Juan Ramirez de Velasco, on a plain of great extent, bounded on the west by the mountains, in which the inhabitants breed some cattle.

Its territory produces cotton, grain and vines, but the soil is poor.

This city contains a parish church, three convents and an ancient college of the Jesuits, being in 29° 12' south latitude, and 70° west longitude, 240 miles west-south-west of St. Jago del Estero.

Xuxuy, or Jujuy, or San Salvador, is twenty leagues north of Salta, 174 miles north of Santiago del Estero, in 23° 5' south latitude, and 66° 2' west longitude, and is the chief place of a district of the same name on the frontier of Peru. This town is seated at the foot of a high mountain of the eastern Andes, contains about 300 houses, and is the most northerly city of Tucuman. Near it the river Xuxui, being joined by several others, flows towards the La Plata, after forming the Vermejo in Chaco.

Londres, or London is a village which was formerly founded by Juan de Zuriata, in honour of Mary Queen of England, in 1555, on the event of her marriage with Philip II.

It is in 19° 12' south latitude, but is at present of little importance.

Salta, or San Miguel de Salta, is a city and district of this government, from which the cattle trade with Peru is carried on.

This city stands in 24° 17' south latitude, and 64° 1' 30" west longitude, and was founded, in 1582, by Don Gonzalo de Obreu y Figueroa, under the name of San Clemente de la Nueva Sevilla, but was afterwards changed to its present scite in the beautiful valley of Lerma, which is five leagues in circumference, and through which passes a river, on whose shore the city stands, having a fine bridge over it.

It contains 400 houses, and 500 men capable of bearing arms, who have hitherto defended the city against the Indians, though it has no walls. In it are one church, two chapels, four convents, and a college which belonged to the Jesuits, the inhabitants being chiefly Spaniards and their slaves. Its environs are very fertile, abounding in wheat, rye and vines, with pastures for the cattle exported from this place to Peru; and its commerce consists in corn, meal, wine, cattle, salt meat, fat hides and other commodities, which are sent to all parts of Peru. The cattle and mules of Tucuman also go from this place, which is situated on the high road from Buenos Ayres to Potosi.

It is computed that the number of mules fattened in the valley of Lerma amount, during the months of February and March, when the annual fair is held, to 60,000, and besides these, there are generally 4000 horses and cows.

The natives are subject to a species of leprosy, and nearly all the women, after they have attained the age of 20, have the coto, or goitrous swelling in the throat, which disfigures them very much, and which they take great pains to conceal.

Salta is fifty miles south of Xuxui, and the river which washes the town runs east, and enters the Vermejo.

THE GOVERNMENT OF CUYO OR CUJO.

Cuyo was formerly a Chilian province; it is bounded on the north by Tucuman, on the east by the Pampas or deserts of Buenos Ayres, on the south by Patagonia or Terra Magellanica, and on the west by the Andes, which separate it from Chili; it is comprehended between the twenty-ninth and thirty-fifth degrees of south latitude, and extends about 111 leagues from north to south, its breadth being nearly 110.

Climate, Features, &c.—In this extensive tract, the climate is variable, during the summer months those parts which do not lie on the high Andes are excessively hot, and the winter is very cold. Storms of thunder and hail are also common, and in the parts nearest Chili, these storms are of short continuance, but very violent.

The soil consists of arid plains, fertile valleys, and desert highlands; but those parts, which are the most barren, become extremely fertile, if irrigated by drawing over them the waters of the numerous rivers in which it abounds.

Fruits and grains of Europe arrive at perfection much sooner in Cujo than in Chili, and the vines produce a rich and delicious wine.

The history of this province is uninteresting; the aborigines, of whom there are few remaining and who are called Guarpes, were conquered by the Peruvian Incas; and on the road over the Andes to Chili, are still to be seen some tambos or military stations of the Inca Yupanqui.

The Spaniards who explored Cuyo were under the command of Francisco de Aguirre, who was sent by Valdivia from Chili, but returned without effecting any thing of importance.

In 1560, Don Garcia de Mendoza sent Pedro Castillo to conquer this country; he subdued the Guarpes and founded two cities.

The principal rivers in this extensive province are the San Juan, the Mendoza, and the Tunujan. The San Juan rises in the Chilian Andes, and washes the walls of St. Juan de la Frontera. The Mendoza also rises in the same chain, and the two, after receiving several smaller streams, and running twenty-five and thirty leagues, lose themselves in the chain of lakes called Guanasache, which extends more than fifty leagues from north to south, and also receives the Tunujan.

In these lakes, according to some maps, the great Rio Colorado rises, which flows into the Atlantic, in about 40° south latitude.

The eastern part of Cujo is watered by several rivers, but of them very little is known, as these parts are mostly immense plains, in which the herbage is of such a height as to conceal the cattle and animals that feed in them. Unlike the savannahs of the Orinoco and the La Plata, they possess lofty and beautiful trees; of these a species of cocoa palm is the most singular, its leaves and branches commence from the ground, and though they bear some resemblance to those of the cocoa-nut, they are hard and sharp like the aloe, and the tree, which never exceeds eighteen feet in height, bears a fruit also resembling that of the cocoa, but containing no kernel or edible substance.

Its trunk is very large, and consists of several concentric layers, each of which to the heart, are finer as they approach the centre, and from a yellow decrease by shades to a perfect white. Of these fibrous coats, the natives make cloth which is strong and flexible, but not so soft as that of flax. The other trees of Cujo are those which are peculiar to the warm regions of Chili and La Plata; of them, the cactus family bear a large proportion, and the nopal or opuntia feeds the cochineal insect, of which, however, none are exported.

The animals of Cujo are similar to those of Buenos Ayres, or Tucuman, as jaguars, cougars or pumas, wild swine, deer, &c. The jaguars grow to a great size, even as large as an ass, and their skin, like that of the African tiger, is beautifully variegated with white, yellow and black. The natives hunt them for their skin, arming themselves in these encounters with long lances of hard wood; but they seldom attack the animal singly, three Indians usually composing the hunting party, and exerting all their address and courage to kill it. The cold parts of this province abound with vicunas, llamas, &c.

Alligators, iguanas, and other amphibious animals, frequent the lakes and rivers, which are abundantly supplied with fish.

Birds are as numerous in Cuyo as in Paraguay, from the great condor to the beautiful little picaflor, or humming-bird. Ostriches, or rather cassowaries, frequent the plains, and are so fleet in their half-running half-flying motion, that the swiftest horse is soon tired of the pursuit.

The insect and reptile tribes are as numerous as in the other warm tracts of America, and only disappear as the land elevates itself towards the cold regions of the air. Large grass-hoppers, or locusts, are so abundant in the plains, that they frequently cover several miles of country, destroying every green thing they settle on.

The northern parts of Cuyo furnish gold and silver, but the mines of these metals have been till lately unworked, owing to the poverty, or rather want of numbers of the inhabitants. Its mountains also yield lead, sulphur, coal and gypsum, while the lakes and plains furnish salt.

In the neighbourhood of St. Juan de la Frontera, the hills are wholly composed of strata of white marble of a beautiful grain. It is used by the inhabitants in making fine lime, and in building bridges over the small canals, with which they irrigate their fields.

In this country, through which the road from Buenos Ayres to Chili passes, besides the tambos or military posts of the ancient Peruvians, there are several singular monuments of a far more ancient date. These are however very imperfectly known; but one of them, on a low range of hills, between Mendoza and La Punta, has been repeatedly visited. It consists of a large stone pillar or obelisk, 150 feet in height, and twelve in diameter, on which are curious marks, supposed to resemble eastern characters; and near a river is another stone, containing the same characters, the figures of several animals, and the print of a foot, of which, the Spanish priests have availed themselves, to impress their converts with the idea, that it was the work of one of the Apostles, who left this mark as a token of his mission.

The commerce of Cuyo is of little importance, consisting chiefly in wines, brandy, and dried fruits, which it sends to Buenos Ayres, Cordova, &c. Its European fruits, grapes, figs, pears and apples, are much sought after, and the wool of the vicuna is sent for exportation to Buenos Ayres; its beautiful fawn colour, gloss and softness, rendering it of great value in Spain.

Whatever commercial relation is established between the viceroyalty of Buenos Ayres and the kingdom of Chili, the goods must pass through Cuyo; the passage over the Andes being in this government, which, although exceedingly difficult, will one day render it an important district, especially should the trade of China or the east embrace the southern and western shores of America.

The capital of Cujo is the city of Mendoza, in 33° 25' south latitude, and 69° 47' west longitude, in a plain at the foot of the Andes, the environs being adorned with plantations, which are watered by means of canals.

It contains four convents, a college, formerly established by the Jesuits, and a church.

A silver mine having been opened in its vicinity, named Uspallata, the number of inhabitants of Mendoza is constantly increasing; at present, they amount to about six thousand, who are employed in these works, or in carrying on a productive trade with Buenos Ayres, in fruits, wool, and wine. The river Mendoza flows by this town, which is fifty leagues from Santiago in Chili, and the district around it contains two silver, one copper, and one lead mines.

The next town of note in Cujo, is San Juan de la Frontera, forty-five leagues north of Mendoza, in 33° 25' south latitude, and 68° 55' west longitude near the Andes, from which circumstance it is also called San Juan de la Cordillera. The neighbourhood of this city, which is washed by the river San Juan, has some gold mines; but its principal trade consists in sending wine, brandy, fruits, and vicuña-wool to Buenos Ayres; the pomegranates of San Juan being greatly esteemed for their size and flavour.

Its population is nearly the same as that of the capital, which it resembles in regard to the number of its public edifices.

Besides these two cities, Cuyo contains the towns of San Luis de Loyola, or De la Punta, Jachal, Vallofertil, Mogua, Concorto, Leonsito, Calingarta, and Pismanta.

San Luis de Loyola is the great thoroughfare for the commerce between Chili, Cujo, and Buenos Ayres; it is situated sixty-two leagues east of Mendoza, and has a church, convent, and college, of the late order of Jesuits. The inhabitants amounting to about 200.

The other towns are of little note or importance, and are at present mere villages.

The fifth and last division of the viceroyalty of La Plata, is—

THE GOVERNMENT OF BUENOS AYRES,

Which is bounded on the north by the government of St. Paul, in Brazil; on the north-west by the river Parana, which divides it from Paraguay; on the west by the plains of Tucuman; on the east by the Portuguese frontier, which passes south through lake Mini; on the south-west, by the Atlantic Ocean, and the line of demarcation between it and the independent tribes; on the south-east by Cuyo, and on the south, by an imaginary line, passing through the Pampas or Patagonia.

History, &c.—The history of this government is that of the viceroyalty; the most extraordinary part of it being that which relates to the subjugation of the Indians by the Jesuits, who established their principal stations in the country, embraced by the Parana on the north, the Uruguay on the east; and the La Plata on the west and south.

The road for these missionaries was prepared by Alvar Nuñez de Vaca, in 1541, who conquered the country, and named it Vera. Two monks of the order of St. Francis accompanied the governor in his expedition, and laboured very hard to convert the natives, which they succeeded so well in, that others of the same order were soon established in the country, in which they erected chapels and villages. Of these monks, Father Luis de Bolaños was the most zealous; he stayed fifty years among the Guaranies, and made himself master of their language; at last, bent down with age and fatigue, he went to welcome the arrival of some Jesuit brothers, who came to assist him in his labours; these were with difficulty admitted into the country, owing to the aversion of the natives to have any other pastor than the venerable Bolaños. From this time the Jesuits laboured so effectually to convert the Indians, that in a very short period, the greater part of the country was in their power; they extended their dominion over Paraguay, and organized the Indians into a well disciplined body of militia, by which means they kept all persons, whether Spaniards or Portuguese, out of their territories.

From Paraguay and Parana, they drew such great revenues, by making their converts work at stated periods in the plantations, &c., that they were enabled not only to supply every thing necessary for the comfort of the people from Europe, but were also enabled to send immense sums to the superiors of their order. The Indians were studiously kept in ignorance of the Spanish language; they were instructed in all sorts of useful arts, and sedulously trained to the fatigues of a military life, being formed into large bodies of cavalry and infantry, and well supplied with arms and ammunition.

Some hundred thousand of Americans were already under the power, and infatuated in their subjection to these fathers, when in 1750, the courts of Madrid and Lisbon, entered into a treaty for the purpose of definitively fixing the boundaries of their respective possessions in the western world.

Commissions were appointed in 1752, to carry this treaty into execution, when on account of the representation of the Jesuits, who were unwilling to allow the new Portuguese limits, a war ensued between the two countries, and the Indians taking an active part against the Portuguese, the court of Lisbon began to entertain suspicions of the real motive of the Jesuits, in forming such extensive governments in America.

From this time, their influence in Europe began to decrease; a trial was instituted against one of the order in France, by some of the merchants concerned in speculations at Martinique which had involved the society in debt; on this trial, their constitution and books were examined, and found to contain matter so dangerous to the interests of the kingdom, that it was declared necessary to suppress their order in France, and in the year following, the king of Portugal being assassinated, it was resolved to expel the Jesuits from that kingdom.

This was followed by their expulsion from Spain and Naples, in 1767, and in 1773 Pope Clement XIV. totally abolished the society.

They were exiled from America soon after, and the care of the nations they had converted was given to priests of other orders, but chiefly to the Franciscans, and their government placed in the hands of civil officers, in the same manner as in other parts of America.

On their expulsion from the territories on the banks of the Parana there were discovered in thirty settlements alone, no less than 769,590 horses, 13,900 mules, and 271,540 sheep.

Climate, Features, &c.—The climate of Buenos Ayres is variable according to the situation of the districts on the great Pampas or plains, the heat in summer being scorching, whilst at Buenos Ayres, and in the mountains of Parana or Guayra, the winter is cold.

Nearly the whole of the southern, western, and some of the northern parts of this government consist of wide spread plains, on which immense herds of cattle are fed; the road from the capital to Cuyo lying over one of these levels, called the Pampas, which are of an extent that would equal the size of a great European kingdom. On this plain the cattle range unowned and unvalued, being only hunted down occasionally for the sake of their hides and tallow; wild horses also abound in these deserts, and wander about in such troops that travellers are surrounded by them for three weeks together; sometimes they are observed in innumerable quantities passing over the road at full speed for hours at a time, and on these occasions it requires great exertion to prevent being trampled down by them; but the same road is often travelled without one of these creatures being seen.

The plains also abound in cassowaries, partridges, geese, ducks, deer and other game, and are uninhabited by man.

No stages are fixed upon the route to Chili, as it is impossible in parts of it which are covered with sands to preserve a regular tract, and it is also infested with the predatory incursions of the surrounding Indians, the method of travelling is therefore in covered carts, made as commodious as possible, drawn by oxen, and accompanied with horses and mules to carry the baggage and goods; merchants and others performing this journey, set out in companies, and generally in the evening two hours before sun-set, travelling all night till an hour after sun-rise in the morning, after which they rest during the heat of the day, to partake of the provisions they bring with them, or the game they procure on the journey.

In this course their whole dependence is on the compass, which guides them across the vast steppe, and the travelers are exposed to the dangers of being murdered by the Indians, of sinking under the scorching noon-day heat, or of dying for want of water, of which none is to be had, but by mere chance, besides what they carry with them in skins.

The rains which fall in this plain are of short continuance but in great quantity, and when these happen, the conductors never fail to replenish their water bags; but from these rains the caravan becomes drenched through, and not unfrequently the goods and property of the passengers are spoilt.

The westerly winds or pamperos are another source of inquietude to the persons undertaking this fatiguing journey; they sometimes blow with such violence that it becomes utterly impossible to proceed, as the carriages would inevitably be overturned.

In this government the mountainous parts are chiefly those situated to the north-west of the river Uruguay, and which border on the Portuguese frontiers; they are little known, and are inhabited only by tribes of savage and warlike Indians, who set the missionaries at defiance.

The rivers of Buenos Ayres are the great La Plata already described, the Parana, the Uruguay, and many others of less note, but generally very large.

The Parana rises in the province of Minas Geraes to the south of the city of Joas del Rey, in Brazil, in some lofty mountains, and runs from north-east to west for 300 leagues, when it joins the Paraguay, receiving in its course innumerable streams; at the distance of 125 leagues from its mouth it has two falls of a tremendous nature, which render it necessary for the boats that navigate it to be carried a short distance over-land. The Parana is a considerable river before it enters the Spanish territories, and after passing the frontiers of Brazil in about 24° 40' it flows in a south-west course through the colonies of the Jesuits, in a country of incomparable fertility and of a delightful aspect. It seldom overflows its banks, owing to the breadth and depth of its channel, and it is much more rapid than the Paraguay as it flows from higher ground: at its junction with the Paraguay it is nearly two miles broad, and incloses innumerable islands, which are overflowed in the annual inundations; but it is not navigable in its whole extent, on account of the two falls and several rapids.

This river was always supposed (and is still conjectured by some geographers) to be the main stream of the great La Plata.

The third great river of Buenos Ayres is the Uruguay, which rises about the 28° of south latitude, in the Portuguese province of Rio Grande, among the chain of mountains that run along the coast of the Atlantic. Its course is at first to the west, along a high valley, which is separated from the Parana by an elevated ridge, and it receives so many smaller streams that at eighty miles from its sources it is a large river. The great declivity of the ground over which it has passed gives it so much strength, that after emerging from the mountains it overflows the plain to such an extent, that it requires half an hour's time to cross it in a ten-oared boat, though the current is not very strong. After leaving the mountains at the distance of 690 miles from its mouth it flows through a desert country for a considerable length, and then turning to the south it receives an increase from numberless streams, and enters the La Plata, in the 34° of south latitude.

The banks of the Uruguay are romantic and fertile, after it quits the desert and turns southerly: but it is generally a rapid stream, though navigable for vessels two hundred miles from the La Plata; beyond this it can only be ascended by canoes or rafts, as it is interrupted by frequent falls and rapids.

On the southern confines of Buenos Ayres, the plains are drained by the Saladillo, the Hueyque Leuva or Colorado, and the Desaguadero which descend from the Andes of Cuyo: but of these rivers very little is known.

The chief town of this government is Buenos Ayres, which, being the metropolis of the viceroyalty, has been already described.

Monte Video is the next city of note in this province; it is situated on the north side of the La Plata, in a small bay twenty leagues west of Cape Santa Maria, in 34° 54' 48" south latitude, and 56° 14' 30" west longitude, and has its name from a mountain that overlooks the place, and on which is a light-house that has a good view to leeward. Monte Video is a very recent town, and was erected on account of its harbour being one of the best on the coast.

It stands on a gentle elevation at the end of a small peninsula, and is completely enclosed with fortifications. The harbour, which is the best in the La Plata, is shoal, and exposed to the north-east winds.

This city is tolerably well built, the houses being generally of one story. The great square contains the cathedral, which is a handsome edifice, the town-house, and the public prison: but the streets are unpaved, and consequently either always dusty or muddy, and the inhabitants experience great inconvenience from the want of water, the spring which furnishes the place being two miles distant.

Its climate is moist; in summer the heat is very great, and the sky is frequently overcast by dreadful storms of thunder, lightning and heavy rain: but the winter is cold, and the air, during the months of June, July and August, keen and piercing.

The vicinity of this city presents an agreeable landscape of hill and valley, interspersed with small rivers; but it wants trees, and so scarce, indeed, is wood, that almost all the houses of Monte-Video are floored with brick. The inhabitants do not attend to the cultivation of the fertile country that surrounds them, their principal property consisting in the numerous herds which feed in the plains towards the Portuguese frontier.

The population of this city is between 15,000 and 20,000 souls, consisting of Spaniards, creoles and slaves.

Its commerce consists in exporting hides, tallow and salted beef; the hides and tallow being sent to Europe, and the salt beef to the Havannah and the West Indies.

Monte-Video was taken by the British in their expedition against Buenos Ayres, and was delivered up by treaty to its ancient masters; since which time it has declared its adherence to the cause of the mother country, and its citizens have had several conflicts with the insurgent government of Buenos Ayres. At present it is garrisoned and held by the Portuguese.

Santa Fé is the third city of Buenos Ayres; it is seated at the confluence of the Salado with the La Plata, about ninety leagues north-west of the metropolis. It is of a square form, surrounded with a wall, and tolerably fortified, to preserve it from the attacks of the Indians, who have pillaged it several times, always massacreing the inhabitants. It contains a church and convent. The environs abound in game, and the soil being fertile produces corn, wine and fruits. It is the channel through which the Paraguay tea is sent to Peru, and is, on that account, of considerable importance.

Maldonado ranks as the fourth town of this government. It is situated on the same shore of the La Plata as Monte-Video, in 34° 50' south latitude, and 55° 36' west longitude, 100 miles west of Buenos Ayres, and nine leagues west of Cape Santa Maria, at the entrance of the river, and is a small place, chiefly noted as having a harbour, in which vessels trading to Buenos Ayres sometimes refit.

Las Corrientes, near the confluence of the Parana and Paraguay, on the east bank of the La Plata, 100 leagues north of Santa Fé and 250 of Buenos Ayres, is a small town well situated for the trade between Paraguay, Peru and Buenos Ayres. It contains a church, three convents, and a small population, who are formed into a militia, to defend the place against the Indians. This city is in 27° 32' south latitude, and 57° 50' west longitude. The trade carried on from this place with the capital is by means of the river, in fine tobacco, sugar, yellow wax, Paraguay tea, cotton, cloth and thread.

Colonia del Sacramento, in 34° 22' south latitude, and 57° 52' west longitude, was formerly a place of some importance, as, the small tract of country surrounding it, which is thirty-three miles north-east of Buenos Ayres on the opposite bank of the La Plata, having been colonized by the Portuguese, in 1678, they built a city on it. It was taken from them in 1684, they however recovered it, but were again driven out in 1704, and it was not restored till the peace. In 1706, it was besieged a third time by the Spaniards, with 800 troops and 1500 Indians by land, and with four vessels by sea, but they could make no impression, so strongly was it fortified. It was however taken in 1762, but restored at the subsequent peace; the Spaniards still viewing it with a jealous eye, took it for the last time in 1777, when they destroyed the city and fortifications. Its only importance, at present, consists in its having a tolerable harbour or bay, formed by the river, and it is said, that the Portuguese have again recently occupied it.

The above are the principal towns of this extended government, which contains many others, most of them are however either missionary or military stations; the former abounding on the banks of the Parana and Uraguay, while the latter are chiefly on the north-west, towards the Llanos de Manso and Tucuman, and on the east towards the Portuguese frontier.

The provinces of this government have not been enumerated, they are little known, and many of them are only divisions of the missions, such as Guarania, which extends along the south shores of the Parana, and contains about thirty villages of the Guaranis Indians. On the south-east of Buenos Ayres, the country is named Tuyu; it however contains no Spanish settlements of any importance, and seems to be a tract crossed by a chain of mountains, which divide it from the coast of the Atlantic; much has been written concerning the Abipons, who occupy the north-west corner of this government; they appear to be a tribe consisting of about 5000 souls, who are of a very warlike disposition, frequently disturbing the settlements. Their language is distinct from that of the neighbouring nations, and they exist by the chase, preferring the flesh of the jaguar or American tiger to any other animal, and retire to the islands and high trees, when the annual inundations commence in their country. The Patagonians on the southern frontier have also excited much curiosity; but it seems to be proved beyond a doubt, that they are merely a race of Indians of a stature rather above the middling size, and that they do not differ in their general habits from their neighbours.

The limits of this work will not permit any farther description of the Indian nations who inhabit and surround Buenos Ayres. Of many of them, the Spanish settlers know nothing more than the names, and of the rest, it is observed, that the more the settlements spread, the less the Aborigines are seen, and the thinner their numbers become; most probably owing to the new diseases they acquire, and the more wandering and uncertain life they are obliged to lead; not so the Indians who settle in the missions, their life becoming one of peace and tranquillity, their wants being supplied by their own labour, and not being constantly exposed to the burning sun or chilling rains of the southern regions, their numbers continually increase; and though the Spaniards formerly used very harsh methods, to convert them either to their faith or their profit, it cannot be denied, that they have within the last century, wiped that blot from the historic page, and with a few exceptions, have conduced very materially to the welfare of a race, remarkable for their general inaptitude and unwillingness to assist in bettering their own condition.

Having therefore detailed every subject concerning the extensive governments of the viceroyalty of La Plata, which has been deemed interesting or novel, with the exception only of particular descriptions of the animals which are peculiar to it, and to the other southern regions of America, it now remains for us, only to treat of the last great political division of the Spanish colonies in that country, and in so doing, we shall give a more extended account of some of the most singular zoological objects; as they are equally common to the territory about to be treated of, as to Buenos Ayres.

The kingdom of Chili will therefore now engage our attention.

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[CAPTAIN GENERALSHIP OF CHILI.]

The kingdom of Chili or Chilé is the last and most southerly of the governments which compose the empire of Spanish America.

EXTENT AND BOUNDARIES.

It extends between the 24° and 45° of south latitude, and comprises the continent bounded by the ocean on the west, and the Andes on the east; and the islands on its coasts. Its greatest length being about 1260 miles, and its greatest breadth 300. The extent has been estimated to be equal to 22,574 square leagues.

It is bounded on the north by La Plata, and from Peru it is separated by the desert and province of Atacama; on the east it is bounded by the Buenos Ayrean provinces of Tucuman and Cuyo, and by Terra Magellanica, or Patagonia; on the west, the Southern Pacific washes its shores; and on the south, the unconquered and desert countries of Terra Magellanica complete its limits.

POLITICAL AND TERRITORIAL DIVISIONS AND GOVERNMENT.

Chili is governed by a Spanish officer, appointed by the court of Madrid, and holding the title of Captain General of the kingdom of Chili, having under his orders all the inferior governors of departments and military posts; he is likewise commander in chief of the Chilian forces, and president of the court of royal audience of Santiago.

The country he governs is divided into continental and insular partidos, or departments, over which intendants or lieutenants preside.

The continental part, or Chili Proper, is divided into thirteen partidos, which extend from the twenty-fourth degree to the thirty-seventh degree of south latitude, and are named Copiapo, Coquimbo, Quillota, Aconcagua, Melipilla, Santiago, Rancagua, Colchagua, Maule, Itata, Chillan, Puchucay, and Huilquilemu; from the thirty-seventh degree to the islands of Chiloe, the country is chiefly under the power of three native tribes, the Araucanians, the Cunches, and the Huilliches.

Insular Chili, comprehends the archipelagoes of Chiloe, and Chonos or Guaytecas, and the Andean part of Chili is inhabited also by independent tribes.

DISCOVERY AND HISTORY.

The origin of the native inhabitants of Chili is involved in impenetrable obscurity. They had traditions respecting their ancestors, which were so vague and uncertain as not to merit notice; so that nothing can be advanced concerning the history of Chili, prior to about the middle of the fifteenth century.

In the year 1450, the country was occupied by fifteen independent tribes, governed by caciques or ulmens; they were named Copiapins, Coquimbans, Quillotans, Mapochians, Promaucians, Cures, Cauques, Pencones, Araucanians, Cunches, Chilotes, Chiquilanians, Pehuenches, Puelches, and Huilliches. The Peruvians were at this period governed by the Inca Yupanqui, who having extended his empire to the borders of their country, was ambitious to possess a territory, of which his subjects gave a highly favourable report. He accordingly moved southward to Atacama, and dispatched Sinchiruca, a Peruvian prince, from thence with a large army, to the northern territories of Chili; this general reduced the Copiapins, Coquimbans, Quillotans, and Mapochians, but was interrupted in his career by the Promaucians, who defeated his forces in a sanguinary battle.

From henceforward the Peruvians were foiled in all their attempts to proceed southward, and a fort being erected on the Rapel river, the four first tribes became tributaries to the Incas. Though the Peruvian form of government was never introduced into their territories, which were still presided over by the Ulmens or caciques.

On the arrival of the Spaniards at Cuzco, the Chilese were mostly an agricultural nation, subsisting on the plants their labour had brought to perfection; they had aqueducts to irrigate their fields, and they turned up the soil with a rude sort of plough, which they pushed forwards by a handle opposed to the breast. The Peruvian camels were used as beasts of burden, and these people made bread, fermented liquors, and boiled or cooked their victuals in earthen pots of their own manufacture.

The Chilese lived in large or small villages, and they knew and practised the laws and rights of hereditary property; they had also advanced so far in the knowledge of some of the useful arts, that they were able to form hatchets and implements of copper, vases of marble, and they worked mines of gold, silver, copper, tin and lead.

Their religion consisted in the acknowledgement of a Supreme Being, whom they named Pillan, from pilli, the soul; and for whom they had also names equivalent to the Great Being, the Thunderer, the Eternal, the Creator, the Omnipotent, &c.

Pillan was said to be the king of Heaven, the lord of all the inferior spirits, who were both males and females, and whose offices consisted in guiding the destinies of man in battle, in peace, &c.; and in producing harvests; each person had his attendant spirit or genius, who protected them from Guecebu the evil one.

Being extremely independent in their notions, their ulmens or caciques had no power to impose contributions on the people they governed, and were merely sages or warriors who guided the tribes in council or in the field.

No temples were erected in Chili, the Great Being and his subordinate agents were invoked in times of need, and on occasions of great distress sacrifices of animals and offerings of fruits were made. As well as their neighbours, the Peruvians, they had a tradition of a great deluge, in which only a few persons were saved.

They had words to express units, tens, hundreds, and a thousand, with all the intermediate numbers, and preserved the memory of transactions by the Pron, a bunch of threads of several colours, resembling the Peruvian quippus.

In treating of the Araucanians, we shall give some further account of a people, who, though they had not attained the degree of civilization acquired by their northern neighbours, were, nevertheless, very far from being in a state of barbarism, and who are probably the only American nation, surrounded by European colonies, who have hitherto retained the same customs, manners, language and independence which they possessed before the conquest of the New World, as the Spaniards have scarcely made more progress in subduing them than their predecessor, the Inca Yupanqui, did.

From the determination of Almagro to conquer the country possessed by the Peruvians south of Cuzco, in consequence of the reports constantly received by himself and Pizarro, of the riches it contained, may be dated the discovery of Chili by Europeans.

Don Diego de Almagro de Malagon having collected a force of 570 Spaniards, and 15,000 Peruvians, set out from Cuzco, in the year 1535, attended by Paullu Inca, and choosing the road of the mountains, reached the province of Copiapo in Chili, after a march in which they had to contend with the Indians at every step; this, together with the inclemencies of the weather, the rugged nature of the road, and the winter overtaking them on the summit of the Andes, caused the death of 150 of the Spaniards and 10,000 of the Peruvians.

On the arrival of the army in Copiapo, Paullu Inca obliged the natives to deliver up all the gold in their possession, which amounting to the value of 500,000 ducats, he presented to Almagro.

The natives every where received the Spaniards with respect, amounting almost to adoration, as they imagined the new comers were a divine race sent by their gods to govern them, till after the arrival of Rodrigo Orgonez, with a reinforcement from Peru, when two of the soldiers committing acts of violence near the river Huasco, were slain by the people.

This, the first blood shed on either side, so irritated the Spaniards, that Almagro ordered the ulmen, his brother, and twenty of the chief people to be brought before him, when warning the natives to beware of similar transgressions, he committed his unfortunate victims to the flames; but the army disapproving of this cruel step, the affairs of Almagro soon became unprosperous.

At this juncture, Juan de Rada arrived with fresh troops from Peru, and with the letters of the king appointing Almagro governor of the territory south of that claimed by Pizarro. The Inca Paullu having reinforced his army with the Peruvian garrisons in Chili, Almagro penetrated as far south as the Rapel or Cachapoal, the boundary between the Independent Chilians and the Peruvian colonies: at this place the Inca endeavoured to persuade the general not to hazard an attack, as he was convinced, from what the Peruvians had experienced for a hundred years, that it would be unavailing; but Almagro persisted, a battle was fought, the Promaucians were victorious, and the Spaniards, disgusted with the event and with their general, returned to Peru, to which Almagro marched by the coast road through the desert of Atacama, and arrived near Cuzco, in 1538, with little loss; his subsequent history has been already related.

After the defeat and death of Almagro, Pizarro, wishing to extend his conquests, ordered Pedro de Valdivia to undertake an expedition to Chili with 200 Spaniards, a numerous body of Peruvians, women, monks and European quadrupeds, in order to settle such districts as he might deem proper.

Valdivia departed from Cuzco in 1540, and pursued the mountain road, taking the precaution of passing it in summer, on his arrival in Copiapo, so far from receiving the hospitable reception which Almagro met with, his army was attacked by the natives with great resolution, but as they had been too long in subjection to the Peruvians to be able to afford an effectual resistance, Valdivia soon reduced Copiapo, Coquimbo, Quillota and Melipilla, and with little loss arrived in the country of Mapocho, now called Santiago, where he laid the foundation of the city of Santiago, on the 24th of February, 1541.

The Promaucians assembling some forces to attack the Spaniards, Valdivia set out from Santiago to repel them, and left the new city in the care of Alonzo de Monroy; he was no sooner gone than the Mapochians attacked the place, and burning the settlement, forced the inhabitants to retire into the fort, but the commandant was relieved after a desperate siege by the return of Valdivia, who, hastening to the town, attacked the Mapochians and utterly defeated them.

During this attack a woman named Iñez Suarez killed several chieftains who were prisoners in the fort, with an axe; as she perceived they were about to take advantage of the distressed state of the Spaniards.

The Mapochians continued at intervals to annoy the colony for six years, after which being utterly defeated they destroyed their crops and habitations and retired to the mountains.

Valdivia being harassed by the natives as well as by the mutinous conduct of his men, sent messengers to Peru for succour, and to show the riches of the country he caused the bits, spurs and stirrups of his two messengers to be made of gold; but they were intercepted in their route by the Copiapins, from whom they did not escape till after a length of time, and arriving in Peru where Vaca de Castro was governor, who immediately dispatched succours by sea and land to Valdivia; with this assistance he reduced some of the surrounding tribes and founded Serena or Coquimbo, in 1544.

In 1545 he entered into a treaty with the Promaucians, who thenceforward became allies of the Spaniards, and in 1546 he passed the river Maule and reduced the natives from that river to the Itata; here he was however attacked by the Indians, and forced to retreat to Santiago, from whence, hearing of the civil wars in Peru, he went to that country, leaving Francisco Villagran governor in his absence.

Valdivia acted so meritoriously under De Gasca in Peru, that after Gonzalo Pizarro was subdued the president sent him back to Chili, with the title of Governor, abundance of stores, and two ships filled with soldiers.

The Coquimbans and Copiapins having revolted, the governor sent Francisco Aguirre against them, who succeeding in his expedition, rebuilt the city of Coquimbo, in a more convenient place in 1549.

Nine years from this period were passed in constant exertion by the governor, before he could consider his power as fully settled in the northern provinces of Chili; when having distributed the lands and Indians among his followers, he turned his arms against the southern portion of his government, and after a march of 250 miles, arrived at the bay of Penco or Concepcion, where he founded the city of Concepcion, on the 5th of October, 1550. No sooner had he colonized this settlement, than the toqui or chief of the Araucanians, attacked him with an army of 4000 men; but after a battle of several hours, Aillavalu, the toqui, was slain, and the Araucanians forced to retreat. In the following year, 1551, Valdivia was attacked in Concepcion, by Lincoyan, the new toqui, or general of the Araucanians, but they retreated, after displaying much valour.

Valdivia now occupied himself in strengthening his post, and having received succours from Peru, he marched into Arauco, where, arriving at the river Cauten, he founded the city of Imperial, after which he traversed the country to the territory of the Cunches, in which he founded the town of Valdivia; and satisfied with his success, returned to St. Jago, having fought several battles with the natives, in which his troops were always victorious.

He now dispatched Aguirre, with 200 men to conquer Cuyo and Tucuman, and returning with fresh troops into Araucania, he built the city of La Frontera; and having effected this object, retired to Concepcion, and dispatched a messenger to Spain, with an account of his conquests, a solicitation of the government, and of the title of Marquess del Arauco, and he sent Francisco de Ulloa by sea, to explore the Straits of Magellan, by which he hoped to carry on a communication with the mother-country, independent of Peru.

Occupied with these affairs, he did not perceive the increasing power of the Araucanians, who having deposed Lincoyan, elected Caupolican, a warlike chief, to the supreme command of their army.

Caupolican then attacked the fort of Arauco, which the Spaniards abandoned in the night; he also compelled them to evacuate Tucapel, both of which he destroyed. Valdivia immediately collected what force he could, marched against him, but sending an advanced guard of ten horsemen to reconnoitre, they were cut off, and their heads fixed in the road through which the Spanish army was to pass. This army arrived in sight of the Araucanians, on the 3d of December, 1553, when a fierce contest immediately commenced. The Araucanians were put to flight, but in their confusion, a young chief who had been baptized and employed as page to Valdivia, suddenly deserted the Spanish army, and brandishing a lance, called out to his countrymen to turn and follow his example; this so encouraged the enemy, that they immediately commenced a fresh attack, with such success, that the Spaniards and their Promaucian allies were cut to pieces, only two of the latter escaping.

Valdivia retired with his chaplain to a convenient spot, and having received absolution, prepared himself for death. He was soon taken prisoner, and his late page, begging that he might be spared, was on the point of obtaining his release, when an old Ulmen, indignant at the fate of his countrymen who had fallen in the battle, put an end to the conference, and the existence of Valdivia by a blow with his war-club.

On the news of the defeat and death of the governor arriving at Concepcion, Villagran was appointed to the chief command, and marching with a force against the Araucanians, he was defeated by Lautaro, the page before mentioned, and losing 700 men, was forced to retreat to Concepcion, which place he abandoned and proceeded to St. Jago. By his wise measures and resolute conduct, as well as by the dreadful ravages of the small-pox which had been communicated to the Araucanians, the Spanish possessions were once more established, but battles were constantly fought between the natives and the settlers, which though they generally terminated in favour of the Europeans, were the means of their losing many settlements, and Lautaro the toqui, was slain in 1556, in an action with Villagran.

In 1557, the viceroy of Peru sent Don Garcia Hurtado de Mendoza his son to Chili, with a great force of cavalry, infantry and shipping. The new governor landed on an island in the bay of Concepcion in April; here he remained during the winter, making overtures of an amicable nature to the Araucanians, but not receiving a determinate answer, he landed 150 men at Monte Pinto, and erected a strong fort to command the harbour; this place was immediately attacked by the Araucanians, under Caupolican, when a tremendous battle ensued, in which the army of the toqui were defeated.

Don Garcia then proceeded into Arauco, where he fought another desperate action, and defeating the Araucanians, marched to the southward, through the province of the Cunches, a tribe hitherto unsubdued. In this expedition, they discovered the Chiloe Islands, and returning from thence, he marched through the country of the Huilliches, and founded the town of Osorno.

About this time, Caupolican the great toqui or general, was taken prisoner, impaled, and shot to death with arrows, but his son was elected to the chief command, and exasperated by the cruel death of his father, attacked the Spanish forces under the officer who had slain Caupolican; in this attack, the young chief was victorious, and immediately besieged Imperial, in which he was however foiled.

Many battles occurred in 1559, the last of which was peculiarly favourable for the Spanish cause, all the best leaders of the Araucanians being slain in it.

Don Garcia now rebuilt the cities which had been destroyed; sent Castillo to conquer Cuyo, and at last, embarked for Peru, in which country he had been advanced to the viceregal rank.

Villagran who had been to Spain returned to Chili, with the title of governor, but meeting with reverses, his spirits sunk, and dying soon after, he left his son Pedro as governor; at which period, the Araucanians were once more getting the better of the Spaniards, who founded the town of Castro, in Chiloe, in the year 1566.

In 1567, the court of royal audience was established in the city of Concepcion, their first act was to depose Quiroga, who had dispossessed the younger Villagran in his government, and to appoint Ruiz Gamboa, to the command of the army.

The natives had now become exceedingly powerful under the conduct of a Mestizo, named Alonzo Diaz, who had been raised to the rank of toqui by the name of Paynenauca, and who had been joined by the Chiquillanians and the Pehuenches. This chief fought many actions with the Spanish troops, but was at last taken prisoner and beheaded.

On his death, Cayancura was elevated to the dignity of toqui. In his time, the Araucanians besieged the fort of Arauco, and being defeated, the toqui resigned his command to Nangoniel his son, who was killed in attacking another fortress.

Cadaguela was then unanimously proclaimed general, and in his time, the English under Sir Thomas Candish landed on the coast of Chili, and endeavoured to enter into negociations with the natives; but being attacked by Molina, the corregidor of Santiago, they were forced to reimbark, after losing several men.

Several chiefs succeeded Cadaguela, each of whom were engaged in desperate actions with the Spaniards. In 1593, Don Martin Loyola, nephew of the celebrated founder of the order of Jesuits, having married the daughter of Sayri Tupac, the last Inca of Peru, was appointed governor of Chili; he was slain five years after his arrival, on the 22d of November 1598, by Paillamachu the toqui, in whose country he had imprudently ventured with too small an escort. On this event which had been previously planned, the whole Araucanian country, with the Cunches and Huilliches, their allies, suddenly rose, and put to death every Spaniard who had the misfortune to be without the forts; the towns of Osorno, Valdivia, Villarica, Imperial, Canete, Angol, and Arauco, were all attacked, and Conception and Chillan were burnt.

Amid all these misfortunes, the Dutch landed in the Chiloe Islands, plundered Chiloe, and put the Spanish garrison to the sword; but landing in an island where the Araucanians were posted, these people attacked them and killed twenty-three of their men, mistaking them for Spaniards.

All the Spanish cities above-named, were also taken by Paillamachu the toqui, and the Spaniards were completely expelled from the territories of the Araucanian confederacy.

Luis Valdivia, a Jesuit, who had been employed in converting the Chilese, finding it impracticable to prevail on the Araucanians to listen to him, went to Spain, where he instigated the emperor to take measures to procure a peace; and returning to Chili, in 1612, this zealous missionary nearly effected the object he had taken so much trouble about, and in a short time peace was about to be proclaimed between the Spaniards and the Indians, when an unforeseen circumstance occurred, which rendered the war more active than before.

Battle succeeded battle, with no extraordinary result on either side, till the Dutch made a second attempt on the islands, in which they were repulsed as before, the natives again mistaking them for Spaniards.

Some wars took place after this, till the arrival of Don Francisco de Zuniga, Marquess of Baydes, who assumed the government in 1640. By his exertions, the preliminaries of a peace were arranged and finally settled on the 6th of January 1641, between Lincopichion, the Chilese general, and the Marquess, by which the two nations mutually agreed to suspend all hostilities, and the Araucanians, on their part, engaged to prevent any foreign power whatever from landing in their territories. In 1643, the Dutch made a third and last attempt to colonize this country, by building two forts, and taking possession of Valdivia; but being deprived of provisions by the Cunches, and hearing that a powerful army of Spaniards and Araucanians were marching against them, they evacuated Chili.

The peace thus happily settled, lasted until 1655, when war again broke out with all its former fury, being carried on by both parties for ten years with equal spirit. At the end of this period, Meneses a Portuguese noble, who held the reins of government, again persuaded the turbulent natives to consent to a peace. This was more lasting than the former, and the history of Chili presents nothing worthy of notice till the commencement of the eighteenth century, when the inhabitants of the islands of Chiloe revolted, but were soon quelled. The famous war of the succession happening in Europe at this epoch created much internal discussion in the Spanish colonies; several governors were removed for favouring the Bourbon party, but when a prince of that house was at last placed on the Spanish throne, the ports of Chili were filled with French ships, and from 1707, to 1717, many persons of that nation settled in the country.

About this time, the Araucanians began to show some symptoms of an inclination to break the treaty, and in 1722, they elected Vilumilla their toqui or war-chief. So actively did this chief employ himself, that he gained to his party, nearly the whole of the Indians from Peru to the river Biobio, causing them to agree to rise against the whites, at a certain moment, which was to take place when they should see the watch-fires on the mountains: accordingly on the 9th of March 1723, these fires blazed from Copiapo to Itata, but from some reason, which has not been related, the natives of the northern provinces did not join, and his scheme was put into execution by the Araucanians only, who took some places, and then made overtures of peace.

The year 1742 was famous for the arrival of Don Josef Manso, the new governor, who collected all the scattered colonists, and placed them in several cities which he founded, and which are now the capitals, and chief towns of the different provinces.

His successors continued this line of conduct, and in 1753, several new towns were built, and Don Domingo Rosa sent a colony to occupy the island of Juan Fernandez, which had remained uninhabited till that time.

In 1770, the governor, Don Antonio Gil Gonzago, created a new war, by endeavouring to force the Araucanians to live in towns, giving them materials to build with, appointing workmen to assist them, and sending a force to compel them to do so, and entering into a treaty with the Pehuenches, he attacked them on all sides. The Pehuenches were defeated, and instead of becoming the eternal enemies of their conquerors, they have since that time been their most faithful allies. The Spanish governor being thwarted by these warlike people in all his schemes, a peace was resorted to after a dreadful battle in 1773, and on this occasion the Araucanians insisted on being allowed to retain a resident agent at Santiago, which was granted.

A native of Ireland, Don Ambrosio Higgins, was appointed captain-general of Chili, in 1787, and being still at peace with the natives, this governor built several new towns, opened the mines, and encouraged commerce and agriculture.

In his government, the regular militia of Chili, amounted to 15,856 men. The veteran troops, or royal guard, was 1976 men; and beside these, each city has an armed force, with a local militia, the former being kept in constant pay.

Since the year 1792, several governors have presided over Chili, and nothing material occurs in its history, until 1810, when a partial revolution took place. Spain being overrun by the French armies, the creoles of this country judged it a favourable moment to throw off their allegiance, and accordingly, being the most numerous, they effected their object with little trouble. Since that period, the royal armies have subjected the kingdom, which has been thrown into fresh convulsions by the appearance of San Martin, with a detachment from the insurgent force of Buenos Ayres; at present the government is decidedly Spanish, though the capital and several strong places are occupied by the revolutionists, but very little is known concerning what particular cities, towns and forts they hold.

CLIMATE, FEATURES, &c.

The climate of Chili is probably superior to that of any other country in Spanish America, as the air is remarkably salubrious, the inhabitants being troubled with few contagious diseases, and the extremes of heat and cold are not felt in continental Chili. The spring commences in September, summer in December, autumn in March, and winter in June. From September till March, south-east or south winds prevail, during which time the sky is clear and serene, but the north and north-west winds regularly occasion rain, and chiefly occur during the remaining months.

A singular circumstance attends the difference of climate between the countries lying on the eastern and western sides of the Chilian Andes; for though the winter is the rainy season of Chili, at that time Tucuman and Cuyo enjoy their finest weather. In the northern districts of Chili rain seldom falls; whilst in the southern parts and in the isles it is frequent. The Chilian Andes being very high, and many of them entering the regions of eternal snow, the lands lying in their neighbourhood are subject to occasional frosts, and the mountains themselves are impassable from April to November, on account of the frequent and overwhelming snow storms.

The want of rain in the northern provinces is supplied by abundant dews, and fogs are common on the coasts, but they are never of long continuance. On the whole it may be stated, that the climate of this country is temperate, and favourable for bringing forward the productions of its fertile soil.

This soil yields by cultivation all the grains common to Europe, and in the most uncultivated parts, is covered with a profuse and luxuriant vegetation. The crops are usually from sixty to eighty for one; but in the rich valleys, this proportion is greatly exceeded; but the sea-coast being the least productive, the harvests there do not give more than forty or fifty to one.

The grains most commonly sown are maize, wheat, barley and rye. Hemp and flax give abundant returns, but are not so much attended to.

European fruit trees find a genial clime in Chili, and in the southern provinces are woods of apple and quince trees, of several miles in extent, from which fruit of excellent quality is gathered. Pears, cherries, peaches, of which there are fourteen sorts, some weighing sixteen ounces; oranges, lemons and citrons, melons, &c., are every where to be seen in the fields growing without culture, and each in their kind yielding delicious fruit. Vines grow wild in the forests, and those which are planted give a red wine not inferior to the produce of any European vintage.

The olive trees thrive exceedingly, some of them reaching to a great height, and being three feet in diameter.

In the northern provinces the tropical fruits and plants grow in the greatest abundance; of these the sugar cane, the cotton plant, the banana, the pine apple, the manioc, jalap, pimento, indigo, contrayerva, tobacco, sarsaparilla, guiacum, cassia, tamarinds, pepper, canello, or white cinnamon, cocoa nut and date are the most common.

Besides the plants common to the other kingdoms of America, and the luxuriancy with which all kinds of European herbs, trees, grains and fruits, grow in Chili, this country has a long catalogue of vegetables peculiar to itself.

The plains, the valleys, and the lower mountains, are covered with beautiful trees, and with an herbage so high that it conceals the sheep which graze in it, and 3000 species of non-descript plants were collected by an able naturalist, who has enumerated the properties of some of them; of these the most singular are, a large strawberry, which is cultivated for the table, and also grows wild; the madi yielding a fine oil; relbun, a species of madder; panke, which gives a good black dye; the cachan-lahuen, a balsam equal to that of Peru; and the viravira, useful in intermittent fevers. Various kinds of creeping plants, whose flowers afford the most beautiful decorations to the gardens and forests; and the puya, whose bark is used for the same purposes as cork.

Ninety-seven kinds of trees are found in the Chilian forests, of which thirteen only shed their leaves; so that an everlasting verdure presents itself; of those resembling the European, the cypress, pine, oak, laurel and cedar, are varieties of the same kinds. The other most curious ones are the theige or Chili willow, which yields a great quantity of manna; the floripondio, whose flowers diffuse so great a fragrance that one is sufficient to perfume a garden; the Chilian orange, whose wood is esteemed by turners, on account of its fine yellow colour; the boighe, or white cinnamon, resembling the cinnamon of Ceylon, and esteemed a sacred tree by the Araucanians, who always present a branch of it to the embassadors, on concluding a peace. The luma, a myrtle which grows to the height of forty feet, and whose trunk affords the best wood for the coachmakers of Peru; the quillia, from whose bark a soap is manufactured; the palma Chilensis, or Chilian cocoa nut, whose fruit, though resembling that of the tropic nut, is not larger than an apple; the gevuin, which is a sort of walnut tree, and the pihuen, a sort of fir or pine, which is the most beautiful tree in Chili. Its trunk is generally eighty feet in height, and eight in girth; the limbs which branch from it begin at half its height, and leave it alternately by fours, decreasing in length as they approach the top. The fruit, like that of the pine, is very large, and has two kernels, which in taste nearly resembles the chestnut; a gum, used as frankincense, exudes from the bark; and its timber is highly useful.

Chili is as singular in its landscape as any, and perhaps more so than most other parts of America, as on the east it is shut out from La Plata by the Andes, which, rising to an enormous height, has its surface covered with pinnacles, which are in general volcanic. This Cordillera scarcely ever depresses itself in its course through the country, till it approaches Peru; and it seems probable that it attains a greater elevation in this kingdom than in Quito; no actual measurement has however been made of its highest summits, though they are well known by name. The Chilian Andes are about 120 miles in breadth, taking a direction from the Archipelago of Chonos to the frontiers of Tucuman, and consisting of an uninterrupted chain of ridges, constantly losing themselves in the snowy regions of the air; their sides are interspersed with fruitful valleys and dreadful precipices, and give birth to rivers, exhibiting the most beautiful and the most terrific features of nature.

The roads leading from Chili to Tucuman and Cuyo are not more than eight or nine in number, of which that leading from Aconcagua to Cuyo is the best. It is bordered on one side by the deep beds of the Chilé and the Mendoza rivers; on the other by lofty and impracticable precipices; and is so narrow that in many places the rider is obliged to descend from his mule and proceed on foot; nor does a year ever pass without some of those animals being precipitated into the thundering streams below.

The precipices which accompany this route occasionally open and display beautiful and fertile plains. In these places are seen the tambos of the Incas, only one of which has been destroyed. This road requires eight days to pass in good weather, but in winter it is totally impracticable. That portion of the Andes between the 24° and 33° south latitude is wholly desert, and the remainder, as far as the 45°, is inhabited by the Chiquillanes, Pehuenches, Puelches, and Huilliches, tribes who are in amity with the Araucanians.

The Chilian Andes form three parallel ridges, the centre being the most elevated, and flanked by the others at 20 or 30 miles distance, and they are connected by transversal branches.

The highest mountains of this chain are the Manflos, in 28° 45' south latitude, the Tupungato, in 33° 24', the Descabezado, in 35°, the Blanquillo, in 35° 4', the Longavi, in 35° 30', the Chillan, in 36°, and the immense Corcobado, in 43°; and it is said that all of these are more than 20,000 feet above the level of the sea, the lowest part of the chain being in the province of Copiapo.

This Cordillera has no fewer than fourteen volcanoes, in a constant state of eruption, and a much greater number discharging only smoke. Fortunately for the inhabitants, these are, with the exception of two, all situated on the very ridge of the Andes, and thus cover only a small space in their immediate vicinity with the devastating effects of the heated substances which are thrown from them. The greatest eruption ever known in this country was on the 3d of December 1760, when the volcano Peteroa burst forth by a new crater, and rent asunder a mountain in its vicinity.

It formed a lake by stopping up the passage of a considerable river, and was heard throughout the whole country.

The two volcanoes which are not on the ridge of the Andes, are that at the mouth of the river Rapel, which is inconsiderable, and ejects only vapour; and that of Villarica, near a lake of the same name in Arauco.

Villarica is so high, that its summit is covered with snow, and may be seen at 150 miles distance. Its base, which is fourteen miles in circuit, is covered with thick forests, and many rivers flow from it; and though in a constant state of activity, its eruptions are never very violent. Although the Chilese seldom suffer from the obvious effects of these volcanoes, their country is subjected to earthquakes, caused, in all probability, by the struggle in the bosom of the earth amid the combustible materials which are striving to vent themselves.

These earthquakes generally occur three or four times a year, but they are seldom of material consequence, and are not dreaded as in Peru and Caraccas. Since the arrival of the Spaniards only five violent shocks have occurred, in 1520, 1647; 1657, in 1730, when the sea rose over the walls of Concepcion, and in 1751, when that city was destroyed by the ocean; but only seven persons perished who were invalids and unable to move. These shocks are usually preceded by a noise under ground, which gives sufficient warning to the people to leave their houses, and as the earth rarely opens, few buildings are overthrown; and the towns are erected with such broad streets, and with such spacious courts and gardens behind the houses, that even should these fall, the people are safe.

Rivers.—Chili possesses more than 120 rivers, but as the distance from the Andes to the sea, is in no instance more than 300 miles, none of them are very large: they are however of great importance to the country, by affording the means of irrigating the fields, and of internal navigation.

The finest rivers are the Maule, the Cauten, the Tolten, Valdivia, Chaivin, Rio Bueno, and the Sinfondo.

The only lake of importance is that of Villarica, or Laquen, which is 72 miles in circumference. Sheets of fresh and salt water are common throughout Chili. In the marshes of the maritime ports are the Lakes Bucalemu, Caguil, and Bogerecu, which are salt, and from twelve to twenty miles in length. Salt springs are common in Coquimbo and Copiapo, and in the latter province is the Rio Salado, which, rising in the Andes, runs into the Pacific, and leaves a fine crystallized salt on its banks, which is so pure as not to need any preparation for use.

Mineral springs and thermal waters also are common.

Mines.—The mineral kingdom is not less rich in Chili than the vegetable one is. It produces all the known semi-metals; they are, however, neglected by the Spaniards, with the exception of mercury, so necessary for the refining of gold and silver: but the government having forbidden the two richest mines of quicksilver to be worked, that substance is only procured in a small quantity.

Lead is found in all the silver mines, and in various parts it is worked for its own value, in others on account of the silver it always contains. In the provinces of Copiapo, Coquimbo, Aconcagua and Huilquilemu are rich iron mines, and the sands of the rivers and sea yield this metal abundantly.

Tin is also plentiful in the sandy mountains; and mines of copper are scattered over the whole country, the richest being between the 24° and 36° south latitude; the ore usually containing gold. The copper mines of Coquimbo and Copiapo have been long known; they are said to amount to more than 1000, all of which are in constant work; and the richest mine of this metal was that of Payen, which the Spaniards were forced to abandon by the natives; lumps of pure copper were found in it, weighing from fifty to one hundred pounds; and it is said that the mine at Curico, recently discovered, is equally rich, its ore consisting of gold and copper in equal proportions, and having an uncommonly brilliant and beautiful appearance.

The silver mines are usually discovered in the highest and coldest parts of the mountain-country, on which account it has been found necessary to abandon several very rich veins. The most celebrated are those of Coquimbo, Copiapo, Aconcagua and Santiago. In these the metal is found pure, as well as in ores mineralized with arsenic and sulphur.

Uspallata, in the 33° south latitude, is the most productive. It is situated eight leagues north-west of Mendoza in Cuyo, and yields from forty to sixty marks per quintal. Gold is found, not only in the silver, copper and lead ores, but there is hardly a mountain in the kingdom which does not contain some of this precious metal; and it is found in the plains, and in the beds of the rivers. The most important mines and washings of gold in Chili being at Copiapo, Huasco, Coquimbo, Petorca, ten leagues south of Chuapa, Ligua, near Quillota, Tiltil, Llaoin, Putaendo, Yapel, or Villa de Cuscus, Caen, Alhue, Chibato and Huillipatagua, and all but the three last have been wrought ever since the conquest.

The quantity of gold and silver produced annually in Chili amounts, excluding that which is sent clandestinely out of the country, to the value of 357,000l. sterling annually; and there were 721,000 piastres of gold, and 146,000 of silver, coined at the mint of Santiago in 1790: but since that period the plain of Uspallata has yielded a greater proportion of silver. The contraband silver exported from Chili is as three to two on that which pays the fifth; the annual average of the fine gold and silver which receives the royal stamp in Chili being 1,737,380 piastres, or 376,432l. sterling, of which 10,000 marcs are gold, and 29,700 silver: but the administration consumes the revenue of Chili, which, therefore, never remitted any sum to the royal coffers.

Population.—The population of this extensive country is composed of Europeans, creoles, Indians, mestizoes and negroes; of these the creoles are by far the most numerous in the Spanish provinces. The country is in general thinly inhabited; the whites living in towns, and the independent Indians roaming in their native woods and mountains, it is not probable that the Spanish part contains more than 800,000 inhabitants including all the classes. The creoles are a well-made, brave and industrious race, and have a frankness and vivacity peculiar to themselves; being in general possessed of good talents, but which are not cultivated, owing to the want of proper places of education.

The other classes are much the same as in other parts of Spanish America; and the peasantry, though of European origin, dress in the Araucanian manner; and, dispersed over an extensive country, are perfectly free from restraint; they therefore lead contented and happy lives.

The general language is Spanish, excepting on the borders of Arauco, where the ancient dialect, the Chili-dugu, or Chilese tongue, is cultivated by all classes. The females of Chili are as luxurious in their dress and equipages as those of Lima: but are noted for their kindness and hospitality towards strangers; and this virtue is practised in its greatest extent by all the inhabitants of the Spanish portion. In short the Chilians appear to be the most frank, courteous and generous people of Spanish America.

Animals.—The animal kingdom is not so various as the vegetable in this country; the indigenous species amounting only to about thirty-six; of these the vicuna, resembling the animal of the same name in Peru, is a sort of camel, which lives in the highest regions of the Andes; its body is the size of a large goat with a long neck, round head, small straight ears and high legs. Its coat is of a fine dirty rose-coloured wool, which will take any dye, and is used for manufacturing a variety of cloths; they live in flocks on the highest heaths of the Andes, and are so timid, that they are taken by stretching a line across their path, to which pieces of cloth are tied, these fluttering in the wind terrify the vicunas, who stand still and suffer themselves to be caught. This animal has never been domesticated in Chili, but is chiefly sought after for its wool and flesh, the latter being esteemed equal to veal.

The Chilihueques, or Araucanian sheep, which resemble the European sheep, were employed as beasts of burden by the natives, who now use them for the sake of their fine wool, and they are a variety of the former.

The guanuco is another species of the American camel, exceeding the last in size; its length from the nose to the tail being about seven feet, and its height in front four feet three inches; many of them are however much taller; the body is covered with long reddish hair on the back and whitish under the belly; its head is round, the nose pointed and black, the tail short and turned up, and the ears straight. They live during the summer in the mountains, but quit them on the approach of winter for the plains in which they appear in herds of two or three hundred. They are hunted by the Chilians, whose horses are unable to keep pace with them, but the young being more feeble are generally taken.

The Indians, who are excellent horsemen, sometimes get near enough to throw the laqui between their legs, and thus take them alive. This laqui is a strip of leather five or six feet long, to each end of which is fastened a stone of two pounds weight, the huntsman holding one of these in his hand, and whirling the other, slings the string at the animal in so dexterous a manner that the stones form a tight knot round his legs. They have also longer strips of leather with a running noose at the end, which they carry coiled on their saddles, one end being made fast to them, and thrown with so sure an aim that the noose falls over the animal's head and neck, the rider then turning round, puts his horse into a full gallop, and such is the irresistible force with which he moves, that the game is compelled to follow. In this manner the Peons of Buenos Ayres, who are the natives of Paraguay that take charge of the immense herds of cattle roaming on the plains, catch them when they have occasion for their hide or carcass. The guanuco is naturally gentle, and is soon domesticated; it is used for the same purposes as the llamas and alpacos of Peru, which are only varieties of this animal. They resemble the camel in several particulars, having reservoirs in their stomachs for water, they can go for a long while without food, are very docile, kneel in order to discharge or receive their burdens, and have hoofs so firm as not to require shoeing, with such thick skins that they are rarely galled. Their step is slow but sure, even in the steepest parts of the mountains, and they pass the greater part of the night in ruminating, when they sleep folding their legs under them.

The females produce one young one at a time, and are five or six months in gestation. Their cry is like that of a horse, and to defend themselves they eject their saliva. The period of existence of these singular animals is about thirty years.

Chilihueques were much used as beasts of burden before the introduction of mules, but these animals have now nearly superseded them, from their greater strength. The llama and alpaco, are not known in the Chilian Andes, and the three species we have described, though evidently of the same genus, never copulate with each other, and are seldom observed in the same place.

The puda is a kind of wild goat of the size of a half grown kid, with brown hair, the male having small horns; these creatures come down in very numerous flocks from the mountains as soon as winter approaches, in order to feed in the plains; they are then killed in great numbers by the inhabitants for food, and caught for domestication, to which state they are very easily brought, and are said to be very fond of playing with children.

The guemul inhabits the most inaccessible parts of the Andes. It resembles the horse in some particulars and the ass in others, but is not the produce of either, and is most probably another variety of the Peruvian camel.

The vizcacha is an animal resembling the rabbit and the fox. It is larger than the latter, and its fur being very fine and soft, is used for the manufacture of hats. The cuy, is another species of rabbit, but much smaller, not exceeding the size of the field mouse, and it is occasionally domesticated.

The armadillo, of which there are three kinds, in Chili, the four banded, the eight banded, and the eleven banded; the eight banded being common in the valleys of the Andes, and are of various sizes, from six to thirteen inches in length, covered with a thick bony defensive armour which is so minutely jointed that they can roll themselves up as the English hedge-hog does. The armadilloes are elegant and inoffensive little animals.

The degu, is a kind of dormouse; and the maulin wood-mouse is exactly like a mouse, but so large that it resists the attacks of the dogs; and there are several other kinds of mice peculiar to the country, all of which differ in their habits, and in other points from the European animals of the same name.

The pagi, or Chilian puma, is nearly the same as the puma, or cougouar of La Plata, and the mitzli of Mexico; it is named the American lion by the Spaniards, but it resembles that creature only in its shape and roar, having no mane.

The hair on the upper part of the body is ash-coloured with yellow spots, and very long, and the belly is dusky white. Its length, from the nose to the root of the tail, is about five feet; and its height, from the sole of the foot to the shoulder, near two feet three inches. The ears are short and pointed, the eyes large, the mouth wide and deep, and well furnished with sharp teeth; the paws have each five toes, armed with very strong claws, and the tail is upwards of two feet long.

The female is less than the male, of a paler colour, carries her young three months, and brings forth two cubs at a time. It inhabits the thickest forests and the most inaccessible mountains, from whence it issues to attack the domestic animals roaming in the plains, preferring the flesh of the horse to any other. Its mode of seizing its prey is similar to that of the tiger; and it is not uncommon for this formidable creature to carry off two horses at a time, as they are often linked together in the pasture. It kills one, and dragging it along obliges the other to follow by lashing it with its tail.

The pagi is said never to attack man unless provoked, but it has been proved, by several intelligent travellers, that the lions and tigers of America are sometimes as ferocious and destructive as those of Africa.

The guigna, and the colocola, are two species of wild cats which inhabit the woods.

The culpeu is a large fox resembling the European wolf. It is said always to approach man, and stopping at a short distance, looks at him very attentively for some time, and then retires. Owing to this singular propensity the animal is frequently shot; and the race is much thinned.

The American, or Brazilian porcupine is an inhabitant of the Chilian forests, in which there are several animals resembling the weasel, ferret, martin, &c.

Many species of amphibious creatures are contained in the rivers of Chili, of which the coypu, is a water rat, as large as and resembling the otter in its habits and form; and the guillino is a species of the castor, or beaver.

The shores of Chili throng with marine animals. The sea lion, the sea wolf, the chinchimen, or sea cat, a very formidable kind of otter, the lame, or elephant seal, which is frequently twenty-two feet in length and a proportionate bulk; and many other kinds are killed by the natives for the sake of the oil they afford.

In Arauco the lakes are said to contain a species of hippopotamus, as large as a horse; and the European quadrupeds which have been imported by the Spaniards, thrive exceedingly. Chili has also animals similar to the hare and the fox, but peculiar to itself.

Horses, asses, mules, cattle, sheep, goats, swine, dogs, cats and even mice have been introduced into Chili by the Europeans, and the first cat was given to Almagro by Montenegro, who received six hundred pieces of silver for it.

The horses of Chili are fine, strong, and very active. Those bred in the plains are the fleetest, whilst those in the mountains are the best for draught. These noble animals are necessary to the very existence of the Chilians, as they never perform any journey on foot, and would be unable to catch their cattle without them.

Chilian asses are stronger and taller than the European asses, from which they are derived; they exist chiefly in a wild state, and are hunted for their skins.

The cattle are also large, excepting near the coasts, where the herbage is not so luxuriant; and so numerous are these useful beasts, that many persons have 12,000 head on their estates. They require no care, and enough are usually killed at Christmas to serve for salt provision for the rest of the year, and for exportation.

Sheep, in this country, are equal to those of Spain, and are chiefly kept for the sake of their wool only.

Goats have multiplied astonishingly, and are hunted, in the mountains, for their skins.

The birds of Chili are as numerous as in Mexico, the known species inhabiting the land amounting to 135, and the aquatic to far more.

Parrots, swans, flamingoes, whose beautiful feathers are prized by the Indians for head dresses; wild geese, ducks, pigeons, turtle-doves, plovers, curlews, divers, herons, kites, falcons, blackbirds, crows, woodpeckers, partridges and European domestic fowls are common.

An eagle named calquin, measures ten feet and a half from the extremity of one wing, when extended, to that of the other.

The penguin inhabits the southern shores and islands; the alcatraz or brown pelican is as large as a turkey-cock, and may be constantly seen on the rocks and islets in the sea.

Humming-birds are very common in the fields and gardens; of which, three species, the little, the blue-headed, and the crested, are peculiar to Chili. Thrushes and other birds of song are very plentiful, and enliven the dreary woods with their varied notes.

The jacana is a kind of water-hen, about the size of a magpie, with a spur on each wing.

The piuquen or bustard, is larger than that of Europe, and nearly white, inhabiting the great plains; this bird lays two eggs larger than those of a goose, and is easily tamed.

The cheuque, or American ostrich, is sometimes seen in the plains of Chili, but chiefly inhabits that part of Araucania on the east of the Andes and the valleys of those mountains, and exactly resembles the cassowary of La Plata.

Its stature is equal to that of a man, its neck being two feet eight inches long, with legs of the same height; the plumage of the back and wing is generally dark grey, the other parts of the body being white, though some are seen all white, and others all black; and it has not the callous substance on its wings or breast as the African ostrich has, but it is equally voracious.

The note of this bird is a shrill whistle, and the female lays from forty to sixty eggs, in a careless manner, on the ground at a time; they are good eating, and as large as those of the eastern ostrich.

The feathers are very beautiful, and by their great quantity on the wings, hinder the bird from rising; its motion is a quick run, in which it is so much assisted by the wings, which are eight feet in length, that it outstrips the fleetest horse. The Indians make plumes, parasols, and many beautiful ornaments of the feathers, which are highly valued.

There are also several kinds of owls, falcons, and vultures peculiar to this country, but the largest, as well as the most extraordinary of the winged tribe, is the condor or manque; its wings when extended, measuring from fourteen to sixteen feet; its body is covered with black feathers, excepting the back, which is white, the neck is encircled with a white ruff, projecting an inch beyond the other feathers, and the head is covered with short thin hairs; the irides of the eyes are of a reddish brown, and the pupils black. The beak is four inches long, very broad and crooked, white towards the point, and black at the base. The legs are short, and the feet are furnished with four strong toes, the hindmost being two inches long, with one joint and a black nail an inch in length; the middle toe has three joints, is six inches long, and has a crooked whitish nail of two inches; the other toes are shorter, and each armed with very strong talons. The general figure of the bird is that of an eagle, but the female is smaller than the male, has no ruff, but only a small tuft at the back of the neck, and builds her nest on the highest cliffs, laying two white eggs larger than a turkey's.

These immense eagles frequently carry off sheep and goats, and even calves, when they are separated from the cows. When they attack a calf, it generally happens, that several condors pounce upon it at once, tear out its eyes, and rend it in pieces. The peasants have several methods of taking and killing this bird, which possesses such strength, that it is rarely shot, owing to the great velocity with which it ascends into the higher regions of the air.

The coasts of Chili and its rivers abound with many kinds of shell-fish common to the American seas, and others which are found on these shores alone. Oysters, craw-fish, crabs, lobsters, &c., are in great abundance, and the bays, harbours, and creeks swarm with fish, no less than seventy-six different species having been enumerated; and all the rivers beyond the thirty-fourth degree of south latitude are remarkable for containing fine trout, &c.

Insects are as numerous as the former; the lanthorn fly, glow-worms, &c., illuminating the forest and plains during the dark nights, and the fields and gardens glittering in the day-time with thousands of the most beautiful butterflies. The wild bees produce so much wax, that the churches are supplied with tapers from the collections of that useful substance made in the woods.

Mosquitoes, gnats, and venomous flies are not known in Chili; but a great spider is found near Santiago, whose body is as large as a hen's egg, and covered with soft brown hair, the legs are long and large, and armed with great fangs; though it is innoxious and lives under ground. Scorpions of a small size are also found in the Lower Andes and on the shores of the rivers, but they are said not to be dangerous. The reptiles of Chili consist only of sea and fresh water turtles, two kinds of frogs, the land and water toad, aquatic and terrestrial lizards, and one kind of serpent, but none of them are venomous.

Commerce.—The external trading relations of this country are carried on by the straights of Magellan with Europe, and by the Pacific with Peru, particularly with the port of Callao; with Peru it trades in fruits, preserves, grain, vegetable productions and copper, to the annual amount of 700,000 piastres, from which traffic it derives a net profit of 200,000 piastres.

From Europe it receives linens, woollens, hats, steel, mercury, and most articles of European manufactures, in return for which Chili sends gold, silver, copper, vicuna wool and hides; and this trade is said to amount annually to 1,000,000 of piastres.

Between La Plata and Chili there is an internal traffic in favour of the former for Paraguay tea, &c. But the internal commerce of the Chilian provinces is trifling. The inhabitants make ponchos, a sort of loose cloak universally worn, and principally manufactured by the Indians, stockings, carpets, blankets, saddles, hats, cloths, &c., which are chiefly used by the peasantry, the richer class employing European goods. These with grain, wine, brandy and leather, form the chief articles of home consumption and trade. On the whole the present state of commerce in Chili is not very flourishing, owing to the few inhabitants in proportion to the extent of the country.

A late traveller has given for the united exportation and importation of Peru and Chili, the following average, viz. for the importation 11,500,000 piastres: for the exportation in agricultural produce 4,000,000 of piastres, and for the exportation of gold and silver 8,000,000; or 2,491,670l. sterling for the importations, and 2,600,000l. sterling for the exports, leaving a clear profit of 108,330l.

Capital.—The metropolis of Chili is the city of Santiago, founded by Pedro de Valdivia, in 1541, in an extensive valley inclosed on the east by the Andes; on the west by the hills of Prado and Poanque; on the north by the river Colina, and on the south by the Mapocho or Tepocalma, which flows on the northern side of the city. It was first called Nueva Estremadura, but soon changed its name to that which it now bears, and its situation is the most delightful that can be imagined, in the midst of a fertile and abundant country, and in a serene and temperate climate.

Santiago stands fifty-five miles from its port of Valparaiso, in 33° 26' south latitude, and 70° 44' west longitude. Its population is supposed to exceed 36,000 souls, many of whom are people of noble descent, and whose families enjoy exalted stations in the colonies. They are in general robust, well made, and active; the women are handsome, elegant in their manner, and graceful in their conversation. More than one half are creoles, and in the other moiety, the Indians bear the largest proportion.

The streets are very wide, paved, and built in straight lines forming small squares at intervals, each house having its garden, and though they are built low, yet they are in general convenient and well finished. The river is conveyed by small canals into the gardens, and the chief square, which is in the centre of the town, has a magnificent fountain. This square contains the palace of the captain-general, the court of the Royal Audience, the town-hall, the prison, the bishop's palace and the cathedral.

The suburbs are separated from the city by the river, over which a fine stone bridge is thrown, and are bounded by a hill, from the top of which the whole plain is descried. Besides the cathedral there are four parish churches, nine monasteries, four colleges, an university, several chapels, seven nunneries, a house for orphans, an hospital, and many other public buildings; the cathedral was planned and commenced by two English architects, but finished by Indians whom they had taught. It is a fine building, and is 384 feet in length. The mint is also a fine stone structure, and was built by an artist from Rome.

The governor of Chili and the bishop reside in Santiago, which being also the seat of the royal mint, and of all the public offices, renders it a place of great wealth and gaiety.

It is frequently subject to earthquakes, which are however seldom very destructive. The Araucanians destroyed Santiago in 1602, but they have not disturbed its tranquillity of late, having been driven by the increasing white population of Chili to the more mountainous regions.

Santiago is the see of the bishop of Chili, primate of the kingdom, whose revenues are very considerable; this bishopric was erected by Paul IV. in 1561, its immediate jurisdiction extends over all the provinces of Peru, from the river Maule.

The capital being the centre of all the internal traffic, and having rich mines in its neighbourhood, contains more shops than any other Chilian town; but these shops are confined to a particular quarter of the city, and are stored with every kind of goods. It is asserted, that the population and commerce of Santiago and its port are increasing very rapidly, owing to the number of vessels trafficking in the Pacific, and by late writers this population is made to amount to between 40 and 50,000.

CONTINENTAL PROVINCES OF CHILI.

Spanish Chili, or that part of the country which is colonized by Europeans, lies between the 24° and 36° 10' south latitude, and is divided into thirteen, or according to some accounts into fifteen partidos, or departments.

These having been already named, we shall give a slight sketch of each, with its capital and chief towns.

The first in proceeding from the north, southwards, is the partido, or—

PROVINCE OF COPIAPO,

Which is bounded on the north by the deserts of Atacama, on the east by the Andes, on the west by the Pacific, and on the south by Coquimbo; its extent being about 100 leagues from north to south.

This province is celebrated for its mines of gold and copper; it also furnishes fossil salt, sulphur and lapis lazuli.

The great Volcano del Copiapo is on its south-east boundary, and it contains the rivers Salado, Copiapo, Castagno, Totoral, Quebradaponda, Guasco and Chollai. Copiapo is seldom subject to earthquakes, and little or no rain falls in it, the want of which is supplied by heavy dews, and the many streams with which it abounds; no part of Chili is richer in minerals than this, and turquoises and other gems are also found in it.

The capital is Copiapo, on the river of the same name, and which has a port at the mouth of the Copiapo, which is the best on the coast. The city itself is twelve leagues from the sea, the houses being irregularly built, and containing about 400 families, in 26° 50' south latitude, and 70° 18' west longitude.

At the mouth of the Guasco river is also a port of the same name, in 27° 20' south latitude, but it is a mere village, as is the case with most of the other towns of Copiapo.

PROVINCE OF COQUIMBO.

The second partido is that named Coquimbo; it is bounded on the north by Copiapo, east by the Andes, on the west by the Pacific, south-east by Aconcagua, and south-west by Quillota. It is forty-five leagues in length, and forty in breadth.

This country is similar to Copiapo; it also is extremely rich in gold, copper and iron, and produces wine, olives, and every kind of European fruit, as well as several tropical plants. The rivers are the Coquimbo, Tongoi, Chuapa and Limari; and the volcanoes Coquimbo and Limari are on its western frontier.

The climate is mild, and the air pure and healthy. The great copper mine of Coquimbo, is situated on the Cerro-verde, a hill which rises from the plain in a conical form, and serves for a land-mark to the port.

The capital is La Serena, or Coquimbo, which is pleasantly situated on the river of the same name, in 29° 52' south latitude, and 71° 19' west longitude. It was the second town built by Valdivia, in 1544, and stands about a mile from the sea, commanding a fine prospect of the ocean, the river and the country, which presents a landscape of the most lively appearance. This city is large but not very populous, the families who inhabit it amounting to only 4 or 500, consisting of Spaniards, creoles, mestizoes, and a few Indians.

The streets are wide, straight, and intersect each other at right angles, so as to form squares and spaces for gardens; every house having its garden, which are well filled with fruit trees and esculent vegetables. Besides the parochial church, there are three convents, a town-house, and a college which formerly belonged to the Jesuits. Its port is also called Coquimbo, and is at the mouth of the river, two leagues from the city; here, and at Tongoi, which is twenty-two miles to the south, in 30° 17' south latitude, and is a small harbour formed by the estuary of the Rio Tongoi, vessels load for Peru with copper, hides, tallow, fruit, &c. The bay of Coquimbo is the only good one on its coast; ships lie very safely in it, and are defended from all winds by several islands which are near it. Coquimbo has been taken several times by English cruizers.

PROVINCE OF QUILLOTA.

This partido is bounded on the north by Coquimbo, south by Aconcagua and Melipilla, south-east by Santiago, west by the ocean, and north-east by the Andes. Its length from north to south is twenty-five leagues, and its width from east to west twenty-one.

The climate is mild, and the inhabitants cultivate grain of all kinds, vines and fruits, and feed immense herds of cattle. Gold and copper-mines are extremely numerous, and the natives manufacture rope, cords and thread; and these with soap and copper, constitute their principal articles for trade; the number of inhabitants is said to be about 14,000.

The rivers of Quillota are the Limache, the Aconcagua, the Longotoma, the Chuapa, and the Ligua. Its harbours are El Papudo, Quintero, La Herradura, Concon, La Ligua and Valparaiso.

This district contains the city of Quillota, and the towns of Valparaiso, Plaza, Plazilla, Ingenio, Casa-Blanca, and Petorca.

The capital, Quillota, or St. Martin de la Concha, is situated in 32° 50' south latitude, and 71° 18' west longitude, in a fine valley on the banks of the river Aconcagua. It has a parish church, three conventual churches and a college formerly belonging to the Jesuits, but is not a place of much note; the towns of Valparaiso and Petorca drawing away most of the settlers.

Valparaiso is situated in 33° south latitude, and 71° 38' west longitude, 225 miles north of Concepcion, and sixty north-west of Santiago; and was formerly a very small village, with a few warehouses, which the merchants of the metropolis erected for their goods, in order to ship them for Callao. Its only residents were the servants who had charge of the merchandize, but in process of time, the excellence of the harbour drew many foreign vessels to it, and the merchants built themselves houses, since which it has gradually increased, and is now large and populous. Its situation is inconvenient for the purposes of building, as it stands at the foot of a mountain, so near to its cliffs, that many houses are erected in the breaches and on the acclivities.

Valparaiso has a parish church, a convent of Franciscans, and one of Augustins, but very few monks, and the churches of the convents are small and badly built. It is inhabited chiefly by whites, mestizoes and mulattoes who are engaged in the trade carried on with Peru and Europe; and the governor of this city is nominated by the king, being dependent only on the captain-general of Chili.

The ships from Peru all touch here, and take in wheat, tallow, Cordovan leather, cordage and dried fruits: many of these vessels making three trips to Lima during the summer, which lasts from November until June. Valparaiso is well supplied with provisions from Santiago and Quillota, and there is such abundance of game in its vicinity, that the markets are always well stocked with it; the partridges are so numerous in March, and three or four months after, that the muleteers knock them down with sticks without going out of the road. This circumstance is by no means singular, as it is observed, throughout America, that the birds of this species are remarkably stupid, and suffer themselves to be easily taken. The rivers of the country around Valparaiso, as well as the coasts, are very indifferently stocked with fish, which is not so plentiful in the northern as in the southern districts of Chili.

The harbour is every where free from rocks and shoals, except to the north-east, where there is a rock within a cable's length of the shore, and this is dangerous, as it never appears above water.

When the north winds set in, which usually happens towards the end of summer, they blow directly into the bay, and causing a very high sea, render it necessary for vessels to have good hold with their anchors towards the north-north-east, as they are, otherwise, liable to be driven on shore. Three miles from this port is a pleasantly situated and flourishing little town named Almendral.

The last town of importance in Quillota is Petorca, between the rivers Longotoma and Qualimari, in 31° 45' south latitude and 76° 50' west longitude, which is very populous, on account of the number of miners who resort to work in the mines of its neighbourhood; but it is said, that of late the gold has been found to be so much alloyed with silver and other metals, that the works are not in so flourishing a condition as they were, though it has been one of the most productive undertakings in the kingdom. In the country around this town, which is near the Andes, the sides of the mountains produce palm trees of very large size, and the small cocoa not is found amongst them. The merino sheep bred here, yield a wool from which excellent saddles, much esteemed in Peru, are made; and which form an extensive branch of Chilian commerce.

THE PROVINCE OF ACONCAGUA

Is bounded on the north by Quillota, east by the Andes, west by Quillota, and south by Santiago. It is about the same extent as Quillota, and is a level and well watered district, producing a great quantity of grain and fruits. In the mountains which bound, and may be said to belong to it, are the famous silver mines of Uspallata, with several of copper.

Its chief rivers are the Longotoma, the Ligua, the Chilé, and the Aconcagua; the latter of which is a very fine stream which waters, in its progress to the sea, from the Andes, the great valleys of the province and those of Curimon, Quillota, and Concon, forming numerous branches as it passes them. It enters the ocean in 33° south latitude. In this district is the high road leading to St. Juan de la Frontera, in Cuyo, by which the treasure and commodities are carried to Buenos Ayres. It is traversed, by the people employed in this traffic, only from November to April and May, the tambos and the other houses which have been erected by the government, are stored with meal, biscuit, hung beef, and fuel, during the winter, for the couriers who are obliged to go once a month for the mails from Europe, and who are frequently detained by heavy falls of snow.

The inhabitants of the partido of Aconcagua amount to about 8000.

Its capital is San Felipe, on the river Aconcagua in 32° 48' south latitude, which contains several convents, a college built by the Jesuits, and a parochial church. South-west of this city, and on the central ridge of the Andes, is the volcano of Aconcagua.

The village of Curimon, near the Andes, is noted for having a convent of Franciscans who are extremely strict in their rules.

THE PROVINCE OF MELIPILLA

Is bounded on the north by Quillota, east by Santiago, south by the river Maypo, which divides it from Rancagua, and on the west by the Pacific.

Its sea coast is of little extent, and its breadth, from east to west, is about twenty-five leagues; its principal produce being wine and grain.

The chief rivers are the Maypo, the Maypocha, and the Poanque.

The chief town is Melipilla, or St. Josef de Logrono, in 33° 28' south latitude, and 70° 7' west longitude, not far from the Rio Maypo, in a beautiful situation and fertile territory, but thinly inhabited, owing to its vicinity to the metropolis. It contains a parish church, two convents, and a college founded by the Jesuits.

St. Francisco de Monte, in which is a convent of Franciscans, and the port of St. Antonio, at the mouth of the Maypo, both of which are inconsiderable places, are the only other towns of any note in this province.

THE PROVINCE OF SANTIAGO

Is bounded by Aconcagua on the north, the Andes on the east, Melipilla on the west, and the Rio Maypo on the south.

It is twenty-one leagues long and twenty-six wide. The gold mines of this district are chiefly in the mountains, and can be only worked during the summer; but they are said to amount to 234, besides five lavaderos, or washing places, in the mountain of Guindo, and some other veins near Tiltil. Santiago also possesses many silver, several copper and tin, and one lead mine. The most celebrated of the first are those of Lampa. Jasper has been lately found in the settlement of Montenegro, of which the people make vases, jars, pitchers and other articles.

Santiago is watered by the Mapocho, Colina, and Lampa rivers, besides many beautiful rivulets. It also contains Lake Pudaguel, which is about three leagues in length.

No part of Chili surpasses this district in fertility. It produces immense quantities of corn, wine, and fruits; the peaches are particularly fine, and of a very large size.

The whole mass of the Andes, on its eastern borders, seems filled with metallic substances, which are washed down by the rivers, the sands of many containing gold.

The capital has been already noticed by its being the metropolis of Chili.

THE PROVINCE OF RANCAGUA

Is bounded on the north by the Maypo, which separates it from Santiago and Melipilla; east by the Andes; west by the Pacific, and south by the Cachapoal, which river divides it from Colchagua. Its length, from east to west is about forty leagues, and its breadth, from north to south, thirteen.

The country is fertile and is inhabited by about 12,000 persons of all the different castes, who live in a very dispersed manner in small farms and settlements, and are not numerous.

It has several gold mines, and the mountainous parts contain fine rock crystal; near its northern border are some good medicinal springs and baths, which are resorted to by the inhabitants of the metropolis.

Rancagua is watered by the Maypo, Codagua, Cochalan and Cachapoal, or Rapel, near the mouth of which is a small volcano, and several smaller rivers which are of great benefit to the plantations, rendering them very productive.

There are also some large lakes, which as well as the rivers contain fish in abundance. The two most celebrated of these are Acaleu and Bucalemu, the first is six miles in circuit, near the centre of the province; and the latter, near the sea, is from six to seven leagues in length; near this is a smaller one, from which much salt is obtained.

Its capital is Rancagua, or Santa Cruz de Triana, a small town situated in 34° 18' south latitude, and 70° 42' west longitude, on the north shore of the river Cachapoal, and fifty-three miles south of Santiago. It has a parish church, a convent of Franciscans and another of Mercedarii. A town named Algue, has been recently built, eight leagues, from the capital towards the sea-coast, on account of a very rich gold mine discovered in its neighbourhood.

THE PROVINCE OF COLCHAGUA

Is situated between the Cachapoal on the north, the Andes on the east, the Pacific on the west, and the Teno river on the south. Near the Andes its breadth is twenty-five leagues, but on the coast it does not exceed fourteen, while its length, from east to west, is forty-three.

Its climate is temperate, the soil fertile, and, being well watered by numerous rivers, produces grain, wine and fruits. Here are several gold mines, and it is not wanting in other metallic substances. This province was formed out of part of the country of the Promaucians, who vigorously repelled the attempts of the first conquerors: but having been compelled to make peace they have ever since been the faithful allies of the Spaniards, and the enemies of the people of Arauco.

Their name signifies the Nation of the Country of Delight, in the Chilese language, as they were so called by the other tribes, on account of the beauty of the territory they inhabited.

The principal rivers are the Rio Claro, Tinguiririca, Chimbarongo, Teno and Nilahue, and it contains several lakes, of which Taguatagua and Caguil are the largest; the former is noted for the abundance of water-fowl which frequent numerous beautiful islands in it, and for its trout. This lake is fourteen leagues from Santiago, on the shore of the Tinguiririca. Caguil is small, and full of fish.

The capital and chief towns are St. Fernando, Rio Clarillo, Roma, Malloa, Topocalma and Navidad.

St. Fernando, the capital, is in 34° 18' south latitude, near Rio Tinguiririca; it was built in 1742, and contains about 1500 families, with a parish church, a Franciscan convent, and a college, with a handsome church built by the Jesuits.

Topocalma is a port at the mouth of the river of the same name, which passes near the city of Santiago, and discharges itself into the ocean in 33° 31' south latitude.

Rapel is a settlement near Lake Rapel, a sheet of water formed by the sea. This village is noted for having a hill in its vicinity in which is a singular cavern, consisting of a single vault, fifteen yards long, and from three to four wide, to which there is a natural door-way two yards high. The other towns are of no note.

PROVINCE OF MAULE.

This partido is bounded on the north by Colchagua, on the east by the Andes, on the south-east by Chillan, south-west by Itata, and on the west by the Pacific. It is forty-four leagues in length, and forty in breadth, and, like the preceding, having formed part of Promaucia, is a delightful country, abounding in grain, fruits, cattle, sea and river fish, salt and gold; and the cheese made in Maule is esteemed the best in Chili.

It is watered by many rivers, of which the Lantue, Rioclara, Panque, Lircay, Huenchullami, Putugan, Achiguema, Longavi, Loncamilla, Purapel, Mataquito, Liguay and Maule are the largest.

The inhabitants of this fine province are mostly Promaucian Indians, who are tributary to the Spaniards, and live in villages governed by their ulmens or caciques.

The great volcano of Peteroa is on its eastern border, amid the Andes, and is the most dreadful of all Chilian volcanoes. Its greatest eruption happened on the 3rd of December, 1760, when it formed itself a new crater. Peteroa is 105 miles south-south-east of Santiago, 192 north-east of Concepcion, in 34° 53' south latitude; and 60° 49' west longitude.

The capital of this district is Talca, or St. Augustin, founded, in 1742, in 35° 13' south latitude, and 71° 1' west longitude, 193 miles north-north-east of Concepcion, and 105 south of Santiago, on the shore of the river Maule. In its vicinity to the east is a fort to restrain the incursions of the Indians, and to the north-east is a small hill, which furnishes abundance of amethysts, and another which consists of a singular cement sand, known by the name of talca.

Its population is considerable, owing to the rich mines of gold in the mountains, and to the low price of provisions, which has induced many families to leave the other towns, and settle in Talca. It contains a parish church, two monasteries, and a college built by the Jesuits, and in its immediate neighbourhood are two chapels of ease.

Maule contains several other towns, and large villages of Indians. Curico, Cauquenes, St. Saverio de Bella Isla, St. Antonio de la Florida, and Lora, are the principal ones.

Curico, or San Josef de Buena Vista, was built in 1742, on a fine plain at the foot of a hill, from which there is a good view, in 34° 14' south latitude, and has a parish church and two convents.

Cauquenes was built also in 1742, in 35° 40' south latitude, between the rivers Cauquenes and Tutuben. It has a church and convent.

St. Saverio and Florida were founded in 1735, the first in 35° 4', and the second in 35° 20' south latitude.

Lora, near the mouth of the Mataquito river, is a large village of the Promaucians, a courageous, robust and warlike race; and it is governed by an ulmen or chief.

The port of the province is Asterillo, a small bay between the Maule and the Metaquito rivers: but the province of Maule is now said to be divided into three parts; the part southward of the river Maule being named the partido of Cauquenes, that on the north Maule, and on the north-east, some lands in Colchagua having been annexed, it is called the partido of Curico, with the town of that name for its capital.

THE PROVINCE OF ITATA.

Is bounded by Maule on the north, Chillan on the east, the Pacific on the west, and Puchacay on the south. From east to west its length is twenty leagues, and its breadth from north to south eleven.

The river Itata intersecting this department, it had its name from it, and the only other stream of note is the Lonquen.

The fertility of Itata is such that it produces the best wine in Chili; which wine is called Concepcion, from its being made on the estates of persons belonging to that city. The sands of the rivers above-named, contain gold, and some is also found in its mountains.

The capital of Itata is Coulemu, in 36° 2' south latitude, but it is merely a small place founded in 1743.

THE PROVINCE OF CHILLAN

Is bounded on the north by Maule, east by the Andes, west by Itata, and south by Huilquilemu. Its length is twelve leagues, and breadth twenty-five, and the whole district till it reaches the Andes is a plain, in which immense flocks of sheep are fed, that are highly esteemed on account of their fine wool. The soil being very fertile produces corn and fruits in abundance.

Its chief rivers are the Cato, Nuble, and Chillan, and on its eastern border is the great volcano, which bears the name of the district.

The capital, St. Bartolomeo de Chillan, was founded in 1580 on the river of the same name, in 36° south latitude, and has been frequently disturbed and destroyed by the inroads of the Araucanians; in the year 1751 it was destroyed by an overflow of the Chillan, and in consequence, it was removed to its present scite, which is a short distance from where it first stood, and less exposed to the inundations of the river in winter. This city has a numerous population, one parish church, three convents, and a college founded by the Jesuits, 75 miles north-east of Concepcion.

THE PROVINCE OF PUCHACAY

Is bounded on the north by Itata, on the east by Huilquilemu, on the west by the ocean, and on the south by the river Biobio, being twelve leagues in extent from north to south, and twenty-three from east to west.

Puchacay is noted for the abundance of gold found in it, and for the fertility of its soil; its large wild and garden strawberries are much sought after for making preserves.

The Lirquen the Andalien, and the Biobio are its finest rivers.

The capital is Gualqui, founded in 1754, upon the north shore of the Biobio, in 36° 44' south latitude, and in which the Intendant or prefect usually resides; but the city of Concepcion is the most important town in the province.

Conception, or Penco was founded by Valdivia in a valley on the sea-coast in 36° 47' south latitude, and 73° 9' west longitude; at the commencement it flourished very much, owing to the predilection which the founder had for it, and to the quantities of gold discovered in its vicinity, but after the battle of Mariqueno in 1554, Villagran the governor abandoned the place and it was burnt by Lautaro the Araucanian toqui; it was however rebuilt in November 1555, but Lautro returning with a great force took it, slew the inhabitants, and once more destroyed the town; Don Garcia de Mendoza restored it and fortified it so strongly that it was enabled to resist a siege by the Indians for fifty days; but Concepcion was doomed to be again taken and burnt by them in 1603.

The consequence of the harbour to the Spaniards, and the necessity of having a strong town on the frontier, caused it to be once more rebuilt, and as every means to increase its natural strength was taken, it soon became formidable enough to defy the Indians. This city continued to increase till 1730, when it was almost totally destroyed by an earthquake and inundation.

It was again rebuilt, but in 1751 another earthquake, attended with a still more dreadful inundation, destroyed it totally. The inhabitants fled to the hills, and continued in an unsettled state for thirteen years, when they resolved to build their favourite city a league from its former scite, in a beautiful valley named Mocha. Concepcion was erected into a bishopric after the total destruction of the city of Imperial in 1603.

The corregidor of Penco is commander of the army on the Araucanian frontier, and assembles the militia when ordered out at this place. There are also several public offices in Concepcion, viz. the royal treasury for the payment of the troops; the camp master general's office, &c. The royal audience was first established there in 1567, but was afterwards removed to Santiago.

Besides the palace of the captain-general who is obliged to reside at Concepcion occasionally, it contains a cathedral, convents of all the religious orders established in Chili, a nunnery, a college founded by the Jesuits, public schools, and a seminary for the nobility.

The inhabitants amount to about 13,000; and the climate of this city is delightful, the temperature being always mild.

The bishop of Concepcion has a jurisdiction extending over all the islands and continental settlements of the Spaniards south of the province of Santiago; but what renders this city of the greatest importance, is its bay, which is one of the best in Spanish America. Its length from north to south is about three leagues and a-half, and the breadth from east to west three. In the mouth of it lies the island of Quiriquina, forming two entrances, of which that on the east is the best, being two miles broad.

In the bay are three anchoring grounds, that named Talcaguana is the most frequented by all vessels, as they lie secure from the north winds. It has a small town at its termination two leagues from the capital, and to which it gives its name; the two other roads are not so well sheltered from the north winds, and have not such good bottom as Talcaguana. The tides rise six feet three inches, but the water is smooth, and the current is scarcely felt. Though this celebrated harbour is so good, yet it is necessary to have an experienced pilot to conduct a ship into it, as there are several reefs and shoals off the entrance.

PROVINCE OF HUILQUILEMU.

Huilquilemu is the thirteenth and last department of Continental Chili, and is bounded by Chillan on the north; by the Cordillera of the Andes on the west, Puchacay on the east, and the Biobio on the south.

The rivers Biobio, Puchacay, Itata, Claro, Laxo, and Duqueco are its chief streams, and the first named may be said to be the boundary between the Spanish possessions and the country of the Araucanian confederacy. It rises in the Andes near the volcano of Tucapel, and runs into the Pacific, a short distance south of the city of Concepcion, where at a league above its mouth it is four leagues in breadth. The Biobio may be forded on horseback in summer, but in winter it is deep, and generally navigated with balsas or rafts. On the northern and southern shores of this river, the Spaniards have constructed a chain of frontier forts to restrain the Indians; these works are generally strongly built, and well furnished with arms, ammunition, provisions, and a competent garrison of cavalry, infantry, and artillery.

The principal forts are Arauco, where the commanding general resides, Santajuana, Puren, Los Angelos, Tucapel, Yumbel, Santabarbara, St. Pedro, Nascimiento and Colcura.

Huilquilemu is rich in gold, which is procured by washings in the numerous streams flowing from the Andes; its plains are very fertile, and yield grains and fruits in great plenty, and an excellent muscadel wine is made from the vines grown in its settlements.

The Indians are of the same tribe with those of Itata, and having been long accustomed to defend their country against the Araucanians; they are warlike and courageous.

The capital is Estancia del Rey, or St. Luis de Gonzaga, lately built near the Biobio in 36° 45', south latitude. It has a parish church, and a college erected by the Jesuits. The other places of Huilquilemu, are mostly small villages, and it contains the four frontier forts, Yumbel, Tucapel, Santa Barbara and Puren.

The Spaniards possess no other part of Chili on the continent, in proceeding to the south of the Biobio river, till the 39° 58' of south latitude, where they hold the city of Valdivia and the country in its vicinity, but as their tenure is by no means certain without the walls of the town, it cannot be called a province.

Valdivia is situated on the banks of the river of the same name, in south latitude 40° 5', west longitude 80° 5', at three leagues distance from the sea.

This city was founded in 1551, by Pedro de Valdivia, who gave it his name, and amassed much gold in its vicinity, which tempted many Europeans to settle in it, so that it soon became a place of importance.

In 1599, it was surprised by the toqui Paillamachu, who entered it at night with 4000 men, slew the greater part of the garrison consisting of 800 soldiers, burnt the town, and carried the inhabitants into captivity. It was, however, soon rebuilt more strongly, and resisted all the attacks of the Araucanians, but was taken by the Dutch in 1640, who abandoned it soon after.

On the arrival of the Spanish fleet which had been fitted out to attack the Dutch garrison, they found Valdivia deserted, and therefore set immediately about adding to its fortifications, erecting four new forts on both sides of the river, towards the sea, and one on the north on the land front.

These precautions have prevented it from falling into the hands of the natives or foreigners, but it has been twice nearly destroyed by fire.

This town contains a college built by the Jesuits, several convents, a parochial church, and a royal hospital; and is governed by a military officer, nominated from Spain, who has a strong body of troops under his orders. The fortress is provisioned, by sea, from the ports of Chili, and the troops are paid by the treasury of Peru.

All the rivers in the vicinity of Valdivia contain much gold dust in their sands, and the plains furnish fine timber.

Its harbour is formed by a beautiful bay made by the river, which is navigable for large vessels a considerable distance from its mouth. The island of Manzera, lying in the entrance of the stream, divides it into two channels, which are bordered by steep mountains and strongly fortified.

The Spaniards not possessing any other settlements important enough to excite notice on the main land, towards the south, we shall pass to the description of their island territories in this quarter.

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[INSULAR CHILI.]

No part of America has more islands on its coasts than Chili has, and many of these being inhabited, they form a political as well as a natural division of the kingdom.

The following are the chief Chilian Isles:—

The three Coquimbanes, Mugillon, Totoral and Pajaro, which lie off the coast of Coquimbo, and are each six or eight miles in circumference, but are uninhabited.

Quiriquina, at the entrance of the harbour of Concepcion, and Talca, or Santa Maria to the south of the harbour, which are two islands of about four miles in length, noted for the abundance of shell fish and sea wolves found on their coasts. In Santa Maria there are also fine springs, and many wild horses and hogs, the latter of which feed on the wild turnips which cover its valleys.

Mocha, in 38° 40', is more than sixty miles in circumference, and lies off the coast of Araucania; is not inhabited, but is very fertile, and was formerly settled by some Spaniards; at present it is frequented by the whalers from the United States and England, who begin fishing here, as it is well supplied with wild hogs; but the most important of the Chilian group are the isles comprised in the—

ARCHIPELAGO OF CHILOE,

Which is an assemblage of islands, forty-seven in number, situated in a great bay or gulf, near the southern extremity of Chili, and extending from Cape Capitanes to Quillan, or from 41° 50' to 44° south latitude, and from 73° to 74° 20' west longitude.

Of this group thirty-two have been colonized by the Spaniards or Indians, and the rest are untenanted. The largest of those which are inhabited is Chiloe, or Isla Grande, which in former times was called Ancud, but has since given its present name to the whole group.

Chiloe is situated at the entrance of the gulf of Chiloe, or Ancud, having its western shore opposed to the continent, and forming a channel, which is about three miles broad at the north entrance, and twelve leagues at the south.

It lies between 41° 30' and 44° south latitude, being about sixty leagues in length and twenty in its greatest breadth.

The climate of this, and of all the others, is mild and salubrious, and the extremes of heat and cold are unknown. Unlike the northern provinces of Chili, the rains in Chiloe are so frequent that it is only in the autumn they discontinue, and that but for a short time. The air is, therefore, humid, and grain and fruits are not so abundantly produced as on the continent. The corn raised in Chiloe is however fully sufficient for the consumption of the inhabitants; and barley, beans and pease thrive very well. The vegetables principally cultivated, are cabbages and garlic; but the gardens do not produce much fruit; apples and some other hardy plants being the only ones which arrive to perfection.

Horses and cattle are bred in considerable numbers, as are sheep and swine; and in the two latter the commerce of the islanders principally consists.

Deer, otters and foxes are natural to the soil, and there is no want of game.

The seas around, and the streams which flow into them, swarm with fish of every kind; and the forests furnish abundance of timber fit for every purpose.

This group of islands was first discovered by Don Garcia de Mendoza, in his march to the south of Chili. In 1563, Don Martin Ruiz Gamboa was sent to conquer them with 60 men, and with this trifling force he subjected the Indians, amounting, it is said, to as many thousands. He founded the town of Castro and the port of Chacao in Chiloe. The Chilotes, or native Indians, remained quiet for a long time, but at last threw off the yoke of Spain; and Don Pedro Molina was then sent with a strong force from Concepcion, and soon reduced them to their former obedience. They are descendants of the Chilese of the continent, but far from resembling them in their warlike bent, are extremely timid and docile. The Chilotes are remarkable for their ingenuity, and are particularly capable of carrying on the trades of carpenters, joiners, cabinet-makers and turners. Their manufactures of cloths, linen and woollen, display much taste, and are dyed with beautiful colours.

The Chilotes are the best sailors in South America; their little barks, or Piraguas, are very numerous in the seas surrounding their island, and being navigated with sails as well as oars, give a lively appearance to the shores. In these barks, which only consist of a few planks sewed together and cauked with moss, they make voyages to Concepcion.

Besides the Chilotes, there are several other natives of different tribes in the islands, who have accompanied the missionaries from the neighbouring continent, and the Indian inhabitants of the Archipelago are said to amount to 11,000, divided into seventy-six settlements or districts, each governed by a native chief. The number of persons of Spanish descent is about the same, dispersed in farms, in small settlements, and in four towns.

The commerce of the Archipelago is carried on by a few vessels from Peru and Chili, which bring wine, brandy, tobacco, sugar, Paraguay tea, salt and European goods, and take in return red cedar and other boards, timber of different kinds, ponchos or cloaks manufactured by the Indians, hams, dried and salted fish, toys and ambergris; but their trade will probably never be very thriving, as the navigation of the numerous straits formed by the islands, is extremely difficult and dangerous for large vessels.

All the islands are mountainous and full of craggy and precipitous rocks, covered with impenetrable thickets, which render cultivation difficult, except in the valleys and on the shores; the interior is therefore seldom inhabited; on Chiloe there are forty settlements or townships, which are mostly on the coast. These townships have each their church or chapel, but the houses are very much dispersed.

Earthquakes are as frequent in these islands as on the mainland, and it does not appear by any means improbable, from the conic formation of most of the mountains, and their scorified appearance, that they are the produce of some dreadful internal convulsion, which has disrupted them from the adjacent continent, on which is the lofty snow-capped summit of the great Corcobado, and several active volcanoes; the range of the Cordillera approaching close to the coast in these latitudes.

In 1737, the Archipelago suffered very much from the effects of an earthquake, and the islands of the Guaytecas group to the south, were covered with ashes which destroyed the vegetation for thirteen years.

The continent opposite to the northern extremity of Chiloe, has some Spanish settlements in the country of the Canches and Huilliches, small but independent tribes; these settlements are said to be three in number, of which Fort Maullin, opposite to Chaco Bay in Chiloe is the chief, and the Spaniards are engaged in forming communications from this settlement to Valdivia; as the sea is rendered almost innavigable during the winter by the frequent and dreadful storms. Pedro de Agueros, gives the names of twenty-four islands on the east of the Great Chiloe, which are inhabited, but as so little is known concerning this group, and as several contradictory statements have been made about them, the mere names are uninteresting.

The capital is Castro, in 42° 40' south latitude, on the eastern shore of the island of Chiloe, upon an arm of the sea, and was founded in 1566, by Don Martin Ruiz de Gamboa.

The houses, as is the case with all the rest in the province, are of wood, and are inhabited by about 150 persons; it has a parish church, a convent of Franciscans, and another of Mercedarii, in which only two or three monks reside. This city was overthrown by an earthquake soon after its foundation, since which it has never been in a flourishing state; it is 180 miles south of Valdivia.

The other towns are the port of Chacao or Chaco, in the middle of the north coast of Chiloe, and opposite to Port Maullin, which has a tolerable anchorage, but is difficult of access.

San Carlos is on the Bahia del Rey, and was built In 1767, on account of the difficulties attending the entrance to Chaco. It is in 41° 57' south latitude, and 73° 58' west longitude, and is the most populous and flourishing town in the province, containing 1100 inhabitants. The harbour is good, but subject to tremendous squalls and hurricanes; and the town is fortified, and has a regular garrison; and from the advantages of its harbour, the governor and council always reside at San Carlos.

The other islands have each one settlement and a missionary church on them, excepting Quinchuan, which has six; Lemui and Llachi, each four, and Calbuco three, but none of any material consequence.

South of the Islands of Chiloe is the Archipelago of Guaytecas and Chonos, lying in a large gulf or inlet of the continent, from 44° 20' to 45° 46' south latitude; they are comprehended by the Spaniards within the province of Chiloe, but are uninhabited, being a mere mass of granite rocks, covered with thick forests.

Some of these, namely, Tequehuen, Ayaupa, Menchuan and Yquilao, the Indians of Chiloe visit periodically, and put cows in them, for the sake of the pasture, which is luxuriant.

Having now concluded the description of that part of Chili inhabited by Spaniards, and their descendants, we shall give a slight sketch of the country, reaching from the Biobio river to Fort Maullin; and which, on account of its being the territory of the Araucanians and of nations in confederacy and identified with those people, in manners and language, it may be proper to give the general name of Araucania.

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[ARAUCANIA, or INDIAN CHILI,]

Extends from the river Biobio in 36° to the south of Chiloe, in the 45° of south latitude, exceeding 420 miles in breadth, and also occupying from the 33° to the 45° south latitude, both the central and eastern ridges of the Andes. The nations who inhabit this extensive tract are the Araucanians, possessing the country between the Biobio and the Valdivia rivers, the Pacific and the Andes; the Puelches, who inhabit the western flanks of the Cordillera and its central valleys; and still farther north, on the Andes, adjoining Cuyo, the Pehuenches and the Chiquillanes, their territory lying as far north as the thirty-third degree of south latitude, or opposite to Santiago, the capital of Chili, and extending indefinitely to the east.

South of the Valdivia river, and as far as the forty-fifth degree, are the Cunches on the sea coast, and the Huilliches in the plains, near the western declivity of the Andes, which mountains are also occupied in this quarter by the Puelches.

All this country, to the north of the archipelago of Chiloe, is fertile and pleasant, consisting mostly of wide plains, agreeably diversified with mountains. That part which lies on the Andes possesses some beautiful valleys, but as the chain attains a great elevation the climate is cold. In these valleys, towards the east, salt and sulphur is plentiful; and the precious metals are by no means rare. Near Valdivia, immense quantities of gold were formerly found in the sands of the rivers and in alluvious grounds, but they are not worked at present, as the Spaniards are kept from those places by the natives.

In Araucania the vegetables and animals are the same as those of Spanish Chili; but the rivers and sea abound with fish in greater quantities than in the latter country.

The Araucanian nation is the most considerable and the most noted of all those which have been named as inhabiting Indian Chili; the others resemble them in their customs and persons, but are in a more savage state; we shall therefore only describe these extraordinary people, whose history forms so prominent a feature in the affairs of Chili. They are of a middling stature, well made, and of a strong muscular form and martial appearance. Their colour is the same as that of the other native American tribes, only rather clearer, and they have round faces, small eyes, and small feet; and many of their women are said to be beautiful. Accustomed to a hardy life; and breathing a pure air, these people live to an advanced age, and are not subject to many disorders. In character they are haughty, free, patient under fatigue, and very intrepid in danger; but are fond of strong liquors, which causes them to commit crimes.

Their dress consists of clothes fitted close to the body, and ponchos, or cloaks, which are made of cotton, and are so beautifully worked that they are sometimes worth a hundred and fifty dollars.

Their heads are girt with embroidered wool, in which is placed plumes of ostrich, flamingo and other beautiful feathers. The women wear a robe of woollen stuff, descending to the feet, and tied round the waist with a girdle, over which they put a small cloak. The hair is allowed to grow long, and is formed in tresses ornamented with a kind of false emerald and other gems; necklaces, bracelets, and rings on every finger, complete the female toilet. The national colour, which is worn by both sexes, particularly among the lower classes, is greenish blue.

These people never inhabit towns, but dwell in huts, occasionally placed near each other, though oftener dispersed on the banks of the rivers and in the plains; these habitations descend from father to son, and are not removed, except in case of absolute necessity. The cottages are remarkably neat, and are proportioned to the size of the family; they are surrounded with trees, under whose shades their repasts are made in summer; and the rich people display much plate on these occasions. At their marriages, funerals, and feasts, the utmost profusion of provision appears; and at these times fermented liquors are given in such quantities that they often occasion feuds.

Polygamy is practised by these people, every man having as many wives as he can maintain, it being deemed reproachful to remain unmarried. Instead of the husband receiving a portion with his wife, he pays a considerable sum to the parents for their permission to wed her; after he has obtained which, he carries off his bride without any further ceremony, excepting giving a feast to her relations. The first wife is regarded as the head of the family, the others being under her orders in respect to the management of the house; each wife has a separate apartment where she prepares food for her husband every day, and all present him once a year with a poncho or embroidered cloak, but the women are in general condemned to the laborious occupations.

Both sexes practise daily ablutions in the rivers, and are excellent swimmers.

Oratory is held in the highest esteem by these people; and their language, which is the ancient dialect of Chili, is very soft, harmonious, and rich. Molina in his description of Chili has given a full account of it, and says that it differs essentially from all the languages of the American tribes.

The government of that part of Chili inhabited by this nation is singular; they divide the territory into four parallel provinces, the maritime, the plains, the foot of the Andes, and that which lies on the sides of these mountains; each province is separated into five districts, and these are again subdivided into nine other portions.

The four provinces are governed each by a toqui or general, subordinate to whom are the Apo Ulmens; and on these, as far as military affairs are concerned, the Ulmens are dependent, each subdivision having its Ulmen or Cacique. All these magistrates have distinctive badges; the toqui a hatchet; the Apo Ulmen a silver-headed rod encircled by a ring; and the Ulmen a rod with a silver head; and these dignities are hereditary. The whole are occasionally combined in a general council, which meets on a plain; the chief occasion to assemble this council being to elect a supreme toqui for the command of the army when it is about to take the field; and any native is eligible to this appointment.

Their wars are terrible, and as they are excellent horsemen, the Araucanian cavalry is very formidable, their arms being swords and lances; those of the infantry, clubs and pikes; their onset is furious, but always conducted with order, and though swept down in rants by the cannon, they close with their Spanish enemies, and fighting hand to hand, are frequently victors in spite of the superiority of European discipline and arms.

After a great victory they sacrifice a prisoner to the manes of their warriors who have fallen in battle; and this ceremony is said to be attended with some disgusting circumstances, such as the toqui and chiefs sucking the blood from the panting heart of the victim, which is cut for that purpose from his breast.

These people have always resisted the attempts of the English and Dutch to land on the shores of Chili; they were seen by Sir Francis Drake in his celebrated voyage round the world, in some of the islands near the coast, and subsequently they drove the Dutch from several points on which they had landed.

They have hitherto frustrated all the attempts of the Spaniards to conquer their country, and being in strict alliance with the surrounding nations, keep the Europeans at defiance.

The Araucanians are said to wander over the Andes with the Puelches, in order to attack the convoys of merchandize and the travellers going from Buenos Ayres to Chili through the Pampas; and have even penetrated in the disguise of friendly Indians, as far as Buenos Ayres itself.

We shall conclude this account of Spanish America with a short description of a Spanish settlement formerly made in the Straits of Magalhaens, and of the islands on the coasts of South America belonging to or claimed by that power.

The Straits of Magalhaens and others in their vicinity being at present, though it is to be hoped that the voyage now performing by order of the British Government will not long allow them to remain so, the only passage from the Atlantic into the Pacific Ocean, it may not be uninteresting to state that they were discovered by Ferdinand Magalhaens a Portuguese navigator, who having turned his mind to the circumstance of the extreme probability of there being a communication between the two oceans which had in vain been sought for by Columbus and his followers, offered to conduct an expedition to explore the southern part of America for this purpose.

Meeting with a denial from his own court, he went to Madrid, where, from his known talents and previous voyages, he received the utmost favour; a fleet was fitted out, and, being placed under his orders, Magalhaens sailed from the Guadalquivir on the 10th of August 1519, and discovering the coast of Patagonia, proceeded along its shores to the south, where the land bearing away to the west, the admiral followed it, till he found his squadron in the straights that now bear his name, through which he passed, and entered the great South Sea on the 28th of November, 1520; proceeding through it till he discovered the Ladrones, and in one of those isles was killed in a skirmish with the natives; after which, one of his ships only arrived in Spain by way of the Cape of Good Hope, on the 7th of September, 1522, having been absent three years and twenty-seven days; and having had the honour of being the first to circumnavigate the globe.

Sir Francis Drake, following Magalhaens by the same route into the South Sea, and taking much treasure and many ships from the people of Chili, Peru and Mexico, it was determined by the Spanish court that the newly discovered passage should be explored and fortified. With this view Sarmiento, the best naval officer in the service, was selected in Peru to pass the Straits from the South Sea into the Atlantic; he accordingly performed this voyage; and so plausible were the representations he made to the cabinet of Madrid, that Philip II. ordered twenty-three ships to be fitted out, with 3500 men, under Don Diego de Valdez, and Sarmiento with 500 veterans was directed to settle and fortify such positions as he deemed the best.

It was more than two years before this fleet arrived at its destination: but as soon as it entered the straits, Sarmiento built a town and fort at the eastern entrance, which he named Nombre de Jesus and in which he left 150 men; fifteen leagues farther to the west he erected another fortress, in the narrowest part of the straits, and In 53° 18' south latitude, where he built his principal town, which he called Ciudad del Rey Felipe. This was a regular square, with four bastions, and is said to have been excellently contrived. In it was placed a garrison of 400 men and thirty women, with provisions for eight months: but on the return of Sarmiento into the Atlantic he was taken by an English ship.

The garrison, for want of succour, fell a prey to disease and famine, and on January the 7th, Sir Thomas Candish found only one Spaniard, out of twenty-three who had remained alive, which were all that had escaped of the whole colony; the twenty-two others had set out to find their way to the Rio de la Plata over land: but as they were never heard of, it is conjectured they must have perished miserably in the deserts of Patagonia.

Thus ended this seemingly well-ordered expedition; since which time the Spaniards have not attempted to resume the colony; finding that the straits were too wide to fortify, and that other passages existed to the south, which were equally good for the purposes of the navigator.

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ISLANDS ON THE COASTS
OF SPANISH SOUTH AMERICA.

Commencing the description of the Spanish South American islands from the coasts of Chili, our attention is first led to the islands of Juan Fernandez, three in number; the largest, which alone properly bears that appellation, is in 33° 40' south latitude, and 80° 30' west longitude, distant from Chili 110 leagues, and was discovered by a Spaniard, who gave it his name, in 1563. This island was so much spoken of by navigators in early times that it was supposed to be a terrestrial paradise. It is, however, in fact, merely a small spot, rising out of the ocean to a considerable height, not more than four leagues in length from east to west, and generally mountainous, but there are some fine valleys and plains, which are full of trees and herbage. The hills towards the north are also covered with large woods, but those on the south are destitute of timber; every place is, however, overspread with coarse grass, which grows to the height of six feet. Among all the species of trees there are few of the tropical kinds, owing to the coldness of the climate; for being surrounded by the sea, it is even cooler here than on the coast of Chili, under the same parallel: but the European and American fruits peculiar to these latitudes flourish and grow abundantly.

Juan Fernandez has been the abode of several English navigators in the voyages round the world, and into the Pacific, from the circumstance of its being excellently adapted as a place of shelter and refreshment to squadrons or vessels cruizing against the trade of Peru and Chili; but the government of the former country made a settlement here in 1750, which completely prevented all vessels from touching here excepting those belonging to powers in amity with Spain. Its western side is composed of cliffs rising perpendicularly out of the sea, but the north-west point is the first anchoring place, and here the Spaniards have a guard-house and battery. About half a mile east north-east of this is the great bay, where the anchorage is close to the shore; and in this bay is seated the village or principal settlement; in a fine valley between two high hills. A battery of five guns on the right commands the road, and there is another on the left, with seven embrazures to the anchorage, and seven towards the town.

In this village the houses amount to about forty; but there are several dispersed over different parts of the island. Each house has a garden, with grape vines, fig, cherry, plum and almond trees, and plenty of vegetables.

The officer who commands at this island is sent from Chili, in which government it is included, and the island is called La de Tierra by the Spaniards, on account of its lying nearer the shore of Chili than the next largest, which is distinguished by the name of Mas-afuera, or the farthest, and is 80 miles west from Juan Fernandez, in 80° 46' west longitude, and 33° 45' south latitude. This last is very high and mountainous, and at a distance appears one hill; its form is triangular, and seven or eight leagues in circuit; the southern part is much the highest, and on the north end are some clear spots, but the rest is covered with wood. Several parts of the coasts of this isle afford good anchorage, but the bottom is generally deep; and it abounds in goats, which are easily caught and afford a good supply of fresh provision. On the south-west point of the island is a pierced rock, which proves a good mark for the anchorage on the western shore.

Mas-afuera contains plenty of wood and fresh water, falling in cascades from the high ground of the interior; but these articles cannot be procured without difficulty, on account of the rocky nature of the shore causing the surf to beat violently. Several birds, and amongst these large hawks, are seen on the land, and hovering over the fish which abound on the shores, and may be easily caught. Sea wolves, seals, and other aquatic animals, are also very common.

Off the south-western extremity of Juan Fernandez is a small uninhabited isle, or rather rock, named Isla de Cabras, or Isle of Goats.

These islands are noted for having been the residence of two persons whose adventure gave rise to the novel of Robinson Crusoe. The one was a Mosquito Indian left there by the Buccaneers, and the other Alexander Selkirk, a Scotchman, also left there by his ship, and who lived four or five years on Juan Fernandez, subsisting upon the goats he caught, which were introduced into the islands by Fernandez, the discoverer, who settled and died in La de Tierra.

In proceeding to the north from these, the next isles of any consequence off the coasts of Peru, are those named St. Felix and St. Ambrose; but these are mere rocks of some extent and very high, on which innumerable seals and marine animals are found. They are not more than five miles in circumference, and are four leagues and a half distant from each other, between 26° 19' and 26° 13' south latitude, and between 79° 41' and 79° 26' west longitude.

On the coast of Peru, opposite the town of Pisco are the Isles of Lobos, or the Sea Wolves, where numbers of seals and other aquatic animals may be caught; they are also, however, mere rocks; north-north-west of these rocks is the small isle of Sangallan in 13° 45' south latitude, famous for seals and sea wolves, and north of this are the isles Chinca, Pachacamac, and St. Lorenzo, all small, but the latter of which is famous as forming the road of Callao, being the place where the Dutch fortified themselves in 1624, when they made an attempt against Lima.

North of these are the Farellones de Huara, which are dangerous rocks, and the isles de Saint Martin, de Santa, and de Chao, also very small, and close to the coast of Peru.

The next are the Lobos de Mar, formerly the resort of the Buccaneers, and the Lobos de Tierra, the first sixteen leagues from the shore, and the latter close to it; they are twelve miles from each other, in 6° 25' and 6° 45' south latitude, but are unimportant.

North of these, in the gulf of Guayaquil, is the large island of Puna already mentioned.

The next on the coast of New Granada is Salengo, a small isle near Cape Santa Elena, and still further is La Plata, the place where Sir Francis Drake divided his plunder, and is a very small isle close to the coast, in 1° 10' north latitude, which is followed at a considerable distance on the shore of Atacames, by the Isla del Gallo, a small uninhabited spot, furnishing good wood and water, in 2° 28' south latitude, and 76° 47' west longitude.

The next is Gorgona, in 3° 36' south latitude, and 77° 52' west longitude, 10 miles in circumference, and eighteen from the coast; opposite to these, but at a great distance from the land, are the Gallapagos or Tortoise Islands, but as they are uninhabited, and more than 110 leagues from the land, a description will take us beyond the limits we have prescribed to the work.

From Plata there are no isles of any consequence on the coast, till those which lie in the bay of Panama, occur, but they have already been mentioned in the description of the isthmus.

Crossing to the western side, and beginning at the northern boundary of Panama, we find several groups of rocky islets on the shores of that province, but none of them are of sufficient size or importance to merit a detail of their figure or qualities; passing therefore along the northern shore, the island of Baru, or Varu, presents itself near the southern part of that which Carthagena is built. It is large, fertile, and inhabited; its length is about sixteen miles, and breadth three, in 10° 12' north latitude, and 75° 25' west longitude.

Off the coast of Caraccas are several large islands, of which Aves, Rocca, Orchilla, Blanca, Tortuga-Salada, Margarita, Cubagua, Cocke, Los Testigos, and some others belong to the Spaniards, and are included within the limits of the captain-generalship of Caraccas. Aves and Rocca, are barren and uninhabited rocks; Orchilla or Horchilla, is a small cluster, in 12° north latitude, and 65° 20' west longitude, the largest isle being in the form of a crescent, and is low, excepting on the east and west capes, which are very hilly; on this part the trees and verdure abound, whilst the other sides are barren and salt. The only animals on it are goats and lizards, and it contains but little fresh water; Blanca, or Blanquilla, in 11° 56' north latitude, and 64° 40' west longitude, is also desert, but higher and more rocky than the former.

Tortuga-Salada is in 10° 53' north latitude, and 65° 18' west longitude, ninety-five miles east-north-east of La Guayra on the main land, and forty-eight west of Margarita, being about thirty miles in circumference, and abounding in salt ponds. The southern part contains some fresh-water springs, and is well covered with trees, but the rest is barren, naked and full of salt-pools, for which reason it was much frequented by vessels of all nations, in order to take in cargoes of that substance, but the Spaniards have lately laid these pools under water; this island is, however, still used by foreign vessels in time of peace, and on it are some goats which have multiplied very much. Margarita has been already noticed; its western side is a noted sea-mark, on account of a cape in 64° 26' west longitude, named Cape Macanao, the mountains of which are 3500 or 4000 feet in height above the sea.

Cubagua, Coche, Los Testigos and Los Frayles, are small uninhabited islands in the neighbourhood of Margarita, but were formerly noted for their pearl fishery, and they were first discovered by Columbus. On Cubagua a town was founded soon after by Ojeda, who named it New Cadiz; but no vestiges of it now remain. At that time the coast from Paria to Cape Vela, was named Costa de las Perlas, the Coast of Pearls, the first Spaniards who landed on this shore, finding the natives every where decorated with those valuable jewels. So actively was the trade carried on in these islands, that at the conquest, Coche alone furnished to the value of 1500 marks a month; and the King's annual fifth amounted to 15,000 ducats; til 1530, the pearl fishery averaged yearly 173,000l., while the American mines furnished only during the same period, 434,000l. sterling. But this fishery diminished rapidly afterwards, and was entirely at an end before 1683.

The destruction of the oysters contributed to this decay, as well as the cutting and setting diamonds which had become common in the 16th century. At present the Indians are the only persons concerned in this traffic, and they sometimes procure a few pearls, but they are generally of the seed kind, and they sell them at Cumana for five shillings a dozen.

The island of Cubagua is full of small deer, which are of a brownish red on the back, white under the belly, and beautifully spotted, some of them are quite white; the Guayqueria Indians frequently land on the island to kill them for the sake of the venison and skins.

Nearer the coasts of Caraccas, and between La Guayra and Cumana, in the bays of Mochima and Santa Fé, are some extraordinary islets named Caraccas and Chimanas the former being three, and the latter eight in number, but they are nearly barren rocks, some of which, as Picua, Picuita, Caraccas, and Boracha which is the largest, rise to the height of 930 feet above the surrounding ocean. On one of them are large wild goats, which were originally left there by a family who settled on it from the continent; but the father outliving his children, and becoming rich enough to purchase slaves, he brought two blacks from Cumana, who murdered him, and living on the produce of the farm, were undiscovered in so lonely a spot, for a length of time; but by some accident the affair becoming known, they were taken to Cumana, where one was beheaded, and the other turned public executioner in order to save his life.

Between Cape Unare and Barcelona are the two Piritoo islands, which are low and covered with herbage, but are uninhabited and of small size.

In the channel between the British island of Trinidad and Cape Paria are several small and desert isles which are of little importance; and descending further to the south, the islands of the mouths of the Orinoco present themselves, inhabited by a fierce and warlike tribe of Indians, named the Guarounoes.

No island of any importance occurs on the Spanish coast of South America, till we reach the mouth of the La Plata, where the island of Lobos, Wolves, in south latitude 35° and fifteen miles south-west of Cape Santa Maria, is found; it is small and chiefly noted for the quantity of sea-wolves, seals and other marine animals which are taken on it.

The Falkland or Malouin Islands, on the east of the Straits of Magellan, are at present possessed by the Spaniards, as they have a fort and barracks on the eastern one, which they have named Soledad; here all the male criminals from Peru and Buenos Ayres are sent for life; vessels sail with these convicts, and with provisions at stated seasons, but as no woman ever accompanies them, Soledad cannot be named a Spanish colony; and it is even doubtful, whether in the present state of the government of Buenos Ayres, they continue to send their delinquents to this banishment.

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DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATE
OF
COMPARATIVE ALTITUDES OF THE MOUNTAINS
IN
SPANISH NORTH AND SOUTH AMERICA.

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The accompanying plate represents the elevations which some of the most noted summits attain in Mexico or New Spain, contrasted with the altitudes of the higher peaks of the Southern Andes in Quito, Merida, Santa Marta and Caraccas; by which it will be readily seen, that the northern range of the Cordillera of the Andes, is not very inferior in height to that part of the chain which has been considered, till very lately, to reach an elevation unequalled by any other mountains in the world.

Recent enquiries, and the researches of zealous travellers and geographers, have not only disclosed the fact, that the Asiatic summits rival and surpass those of Peru, but have also made it questionable whether the continuation of the Andean chain, south of Chimborazo, Cotopaxi, &c. is not far superior in altitude to those celebrated peaks.

It is true, that the Cordillera sinks very much after it has passed the confines of Peru, and that it continues to lower its lofty crest in running through the vast deserts of Atacama, in the kingdom of La Plata, and the upper districts of Chili; but no sooner has it passed these provinces, than it again assumes the same majestic form, and continues it in three parallel ridges, as far as the forty-fifth degree of south latitude, beyond which scarcely any thing is known of this enormous chain, excepting that its height is very great till it loses itself in the ocean of the south, opposite to Cape Pilares, the western entrance of the Straits of Magalhaens.

From its quitting Copiapo, the most northerly province of Chili, till it arrives opposite to the great island of Chiloe and the archipelago of Guaytecas, is the space in which the Cordillera is conjectured to attain an elevation superior to that of the equatorial ridges of Popayan and Quito; as in this space are the lofty peaks of the Descabezado, the Tupungato, Blanquillo, Manflos, Longavi, Chillan, and the Corcobado or Gibbous mountain; all of which rise so far superior to the lower limits of perpetual congelation, that not only Molina, but other travellers have imagined they must be higher than the equinoctial range, though unfortunately all those who have had the opportunity of seeing them, have either been ignorant of the methods of determining their altitudes, or have been engaged in such active employments as to have precluded them from making any other than slight and general observations.

One of the most curious circumstances attendant on the scenery of the Cordillera of the Andes, and which is, from local causes, in a great measure peculiar to those mountains, is the extreme regularity with which the inferior term of congelation or lower limit of perpetual snow, is described on their heads; this feature has therefore been introduced into the drawing, and that in such a manner as to show by the scales placed on its sides, the various heights at which the phenomenon takes place, in the different latitudes the mountains are situated in.

Some of the principal cities, towns and volcanoes, and a few of the most extraordinary scenes in the Andes, have also been introduced, and a scale of miles has been adapted to the right hand, as well as a scale of feet to the left, in order to afford every facility to the reader of the work, in forming just notions of the singular situations of those objects, which may be better done in a graphic manner, than by any description; but as the immediate object of this plate is to exhibit comparative magnitude, on a determinate scale, it is with this view only that it has been constructed, no regard having been paid to the effect as a drawing.

In the centre is introduced the Mountain island of Socorro, one of the Revillagegido group, off the western coast of New Spain, which attains a great elevation for so small a spot, and is remarkable as being nearly on the same parallel as the volcanic summits of Popocatepetl or the Smoky Mountain, Citaltepetl, or Pico de Orizaba, or the Starry Mountain; Iztaccihuatl, or the White Woman; Nauhcampatepetl, or Cofre de Perote, or the Square Mountain; the Volcan de Xorullo and the Volcan de Colima, on the continent, and as being itself evidently the produce of an ancient eruption.

Comparative Altitudes of Mountains and Towns

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---

The ensuing list will be found to contain an enumeration of most of the works which may be referred to as the best authorities for the early and modern history, &c. of the Spanish colonies in the western world.

---

LIST OF WORKS
ON, OR RELATING TO SPANISH AMERICA,
QUOTED IN THIS PUBLICATION,
OR WHICH CONTAIN THE MOST VALUABLE INFORMATION
CONCERNING THOSE COLONIES.

---

Account of the Expedition to the Mississippi, and to the interior of New Spain, by Zebulon Montgomery Pike, 1810.

Acosta, Historia Natural y moral de las Indias, 1591 and 1603.

A Journey through Peru, from Buenos Ayres on the great Rio de la Plata, by Potosi, to Lima, 8vo. in German, by Helms, Dresden, 1798.

Alcedo's Dictionary (Geographical and Historical) of America and the West Indies, edited by Thompson, 5 vols. 4to. 1810. London.

Alzate, Don J. A. Descripcion de las Antiguedadas de Xochicalco. Mexico. 1791.

Anquetil, Precis de l'Histoire Universelle, 12 vols, Paris, 1801.

Anson's Voyage round the world.

Astronomical, Barometrical and Trigonometrical Observations in the Equinoctial Regions of America, from 12° of south latitude to the 41° of north latitude, by M. de Humboldt, in French, 2 vols. Paris.

Aublet, Histoire des Plantes de la Guyane Francoise.

Aurora ó Correo Politico-economico de la Havanah.

Azara, Voyage dans l'Amerique Meridionale de Juin, 1781 jusqu'a 1801. 4 vols Translation, 1809, 8vo.

Azara, Don Felix de, Essais sur l'Histoire Naturelle des Quadrupedes du Paraguay, 2 vols. Paris, 1801.

Bancroft's Natural History of Guiana.

Beauchamp, Histoire de la Conquete et des Revolutions du Perou, 2 vols. Paris, 1801.

Bernal Diaz, Historia de la Conquista del Mexico.

Berenger, Collection Abregée des Voyages autour du Monde, 9 vols. Paris, 1789-90.

Biggs' History of Miranda's attempt to Revolutionize South America, 8vo. 1 vol.

Borda, Voyage de la Flore.

Boturini's Bernaducci, Historical Essay on New Spain.

Bougainville, Voyage autour du monde.

Bouguer, Figure de la Terre, 1 vol. 4to. Paris, 1749.

Buffon, Histoire Naturelle, 54 vols. Aux Deux Ponts, 1785-90.

Carli, J. R. Comte de, Lettres Americaines, 2 vols. Boston, 1788.

Cateri, 1697.

Cardenas, Historia de la Florida.

Chappe d'Auteroche, Voyage en Californie.

Cronica del Peru, por Piedro de Cieca de Leon, 1554.

Charlevoix, Histoire du Paraguay.

Churruca, Apendice a la Relacion del Viage al Magellanes, 1790.

Clavigero, Storia Antica di Messico.

Colnett's Voyage to the South Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, 4to. 1 vol.

Condamine, Voyage a l'Equateur. Paris, 1745.

Comentarias Reales de los Incas, por Garcilasso de la Vega.

Cook's Voyages round the World. 7 vols.

Correspondence du Ferd. Cortez avec Charles V. sur la Conquete du Mexique. Francfort, 1775.

Cosme Bueno, Descripcion del Peru.

Cronica Serafica de Queretaro, 1792. Mexico.

Dampier's Voyages, 4 vols. 8vo. London, 1729.

Depons, F., Voyage a la Terre Firme dans l'Amerique Meridionale, 1801-4, 3 vols. Paris, 1806.

Des Marchais, les Voyages de, par Labat, 4 vols.

Dobrizhoffer, de Abiponibus. Vienna, 1784.

Due Antichi Monumenti di Architettura Messicana Illustrati, da Pietro Marques. Rome, 1804.

Du Pratz, Voyages dans la Louisiane, 3 vols. Paris, 1758.

El Viajero Universal, por Estalla. Madrid, 1796.

Equiara, Bibliotheca Mexicana.

Equinoctial Plants of America, 2 vols. folio, (French) by Humboldt.

Essai sur la Geographie des Plantes, &c. par Humboldt.

Falkner's Patagonia.

Fernandez or Hernandez, Nova Hispania.

Feyjoo, Relacion de la Ciudad de Truxillo, 1763.

Fleurieu, Voyage de l'Isis, dans 1768 et 1769.

Forbes' Oriental Memoirs, containing Observations on parts of South America, 4 vols.

Frezier, Voyages de, 2 vols. 12mo. 1717.

Gap's Voyage of Lewis and Clarke to the Pacific, 8vo.

Gage, on Spanish North America, 1655, folio.

Galleano Viage al Estrecho de Magellanes.

Gazetta de Literatura de Mexico, a periodical publication. Mexico.

Gemelli Carreri, Giro del Mondo. Naples, 1699. 6 vols.

Gilij, Saggio di Storia Americana, or Storia di Terra Firma, 4 vols. 1780. Rome.

Gomara, Conquista de Mexico, 1553, folio. Medina del Campo.

----, Cronica General de las Indias, 1553, folio.

Grynæi, Novus Orbus, 1555.

Gumilla, Orinoco Illustrada.

Henderson's account of the British Settlements of Honduras.

Herrera Descripcion de las Indias Occidentales. Madrid, 1730.

History of Chili, by Molina, English translation, 2 vols.

Historia de la Nueva Espana escrita por Don Hernando Cortez y aumentado por Lorenzana.

History of the Settlements of the Europeans in the East and West Indies, by Raynal, 8 vols.

Historia del Nuevo Mundo, Girolamo Benzoni.

Horn de Originibus Americanus, 1699.

Humboldt's Political Essay on New Spain, 4 vols. 8vo. London.

Humboldt's Personal Narrative of Travels in America, 3 vols. 8vo. London.

---- Tableau de la Nature, 2 vols. Paris.

---- Monographie de la Melastomas, rhexia, &c. 2 vols. folio, Paris.

---- Observations sur la Zoologie, &c., 2 vols. 4to. Paris.

---- Vues des Cordilleres, &c., 1 vol. folio, Paris.

---- Researches, 2 vols. 8vo. London.

Jeffreys on the Spanish West India Islands, 1762, 4to. London.

Journal of Andrew Ellicott, Commissioner for determining the Boundaries of Ohio and Mississippi, &c.; 1803.

Kerr's Collection of Voyages and Discoveries.

Knox's Collection of Voyages.

Koster's Travels in Brazil.

La Florida del Inca, Madrid, 1723.

La Guia de Forasteros (Annual Almanac of Mexico); Mexico.

Labat's Voyages to the West Indies, 6 vols. 8vo.

Laet, Orbis Novus, 1633.

Lavaysse (Dauxion), Voyage aux Isles de Trinidad, de Tabago, de la Marguerite, et dans diverses Parties de Venezuela, 2 vols. Paris, 1813.

Leblond (J. P.), Voyage aux Antilles et à l'Amerique Meridionale, 1797 et 1802, 2 vols. 8vo. Paris. 1813.

Ledru, Voyage aux Isles de Teneriffe, Porto Rico, &c.; 1796-1798; 2 vols. Paris, 1810.

Lettre de Monsieur Godin.

Lockman's Travels of the Jesuits.

Malte Brun, Precis de la Geographie Universelle; 3 vols. and 2 vols. of maps, Paris, 1810.

Mawe's Travels in the Interior of Brazil, and Account of the Revolution in Buenos Ayres; 4to.

Marchand, Voyage autour du Monde, 1790-2; 5 vols. 4to. Paris, 1798-1800.

Marieta, Historia eccleslastica, 1596.

Memoirs of the Jesuits concerning California, 3 vols, 4to. Madrid, 1757.

Mercurio Peruiano (a literary periodical work), Lima.

Michaux, Voyage a l'ouest des Monts Alleghany, 1804.

Munorz, Historia del Nuevo Mundo.

Notes on the Viceroyalty of La Plata; London.

Noticia de la California del Padre Fray Miguel Venegas, 1757.

Oexemelia's (Oliver) History of the Bucaniers, 1686.

Origen de los Indios del Nuevo Mundo por P. Garcia, Valencia, 1610.

Observaciones sobre el Clima de Lima, por el Doctor Don Hipolito Unanue, Lima, 1806.

Oviedo, Historia natural de Indias.

Pauw, Recherches Philosophiques sur les Americains, 1769.

Perouse (La), Voyage autour du Monde, 1785-1788, redige par M. L. A. Millet-Mureau, 4 vols. Paris, 1798.

Perez de Roxas, Historia de Cinaloa.

Pinckard's Notes on the West Indies, 2 vols.

Pinkerton's Modern Geography, 2 vols. 8vo.

Piedrahita (Lucas Fernandez, el Obispo), Historia General de las Conquistas del Nuevo Reyno de Granada.

Poterat (Marquis de), Journal d'un Voyage au Cap de Horn, au Chili, au Perou, &c., 1795-1800, Paris, 1815.

Purchas' Pilgrim; a collection of curious voyages, in 5 vols.

Raynal, Histoire Politique et Philosophique des Etablissemens et du Commerce des Européens dans les deux Indes, 10 vols. et Atlas, Geneva, 1780.

Relations des diverses Voyages curieux, par M. M. Thevenot.

Robertson's History of America.

Robin, Voyage dans l'interieure de la Floride occidentale, &c., 1802-1806, 3 vols.

Ruiz (Hyp.) y Jose Pavon, Flora Peruviana, 3 vols. Madrid, 1798—1802.

Semple's Sketch of the present State of the Caraccas.

Sir Francis Drake's Voyages, London, 1653, 4to.

Skinner on Peru.

Solis, Historia de la Conquista de Mexico y de Nueva Espana, por Josse, 3 vols.

Solorzano Pereira, de Indiarum jure.

Southey's History of Brazil, 4to.

Stedman's History of Surinam.

Thou (I. A. de), Universal History, 1543-1610; 16 vols. London, 1734.

Torquemada, Monarquia Indiana, 3 vols. folio. 1615.

Touron, Histoire Generale de l'Ameriquedepuis sa decouverte, 14 vols. Paris, 1768-1770.

Tuckey's Maritime Geography.

Ulloa and Juan's Voyage to South America, 2 vols. 8vo. (English translation.)

Unanue, Guia Politica del Peru (periodical).

Vater, Inquiries into the Population of the New Continent (German).

Vancouver's Voyage round the World.

Vida del Padre Fray J. Serro, Mexico, 1787.

Vida del Almirante Colon por Fernando Colon.

Vidaurre, Compendio del Chili, 8vo. Bologna, 1776.

Volney, Tableau du Climat et du Sol des Etats Unis.

Voyage a la Recherche de La Perouse, par M. D'Entrecasteaux.

Voyage au Perou, 1791-1794, par les P. P. Manuel Sobreviella, et Narcisso y Barcel, 2 vols. with an Atlas, in 4to. Paris, 1809.

Vue de la Colonie Espagnole de Mississippi, en 1802, Paris, 1803.

Wafer's Description of the Isthmus of Darien, 1699.

Walton's Present State of the Spanish Colonies, 2 vols. London.

Wilcocke's History of the Viceroyalty of Buenos Ayres, 1806.

Ydea de una Nueva Historia General de la America Septentrional, por Boturini.

Zarate, Histoire de la Conquete du Perou; Paris, 1742.

Zoega, de Origine et usu Obeliscorum.

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TABLE
OF THE
LATITUDES AND LONGITUDES
OF
SOME OF THE PRINCIPAL PLACES
IN
SPANISH AMERICA,
CORRECTED FROM THE LATEST INFORMATION,
WITH THE NUMBER OF INHABITANTS IN THE CHIEF TOWNS.

Places.	Government or Situation.	Latitude north or south.	Longitude west of Greenwich.	Number of Inhabitants.
		D. M. S.	D. M. S.
Abancay	Peru	13 30 0 S.	72 26 0
Acapulco	New Spain	16 15 29 N.	99 48 18	4000.
Aconcagua, or San Felipe	Chili	32 48 0 S.
Actopan	New Spain	20 19 30 N.	98 49 0	2750 families of Indians, and 50 families of whites and castes.
Adais, or Adayes Fort	New Spain	32 9 0 N.	93 35 0
Aguas Calientes	New Spain	22 2 0 N.	101 51 30	500 families of whites, and many castes; famous for its hot springs impregnated with copper.
Aguatulco	New Spain	15 44 0 N.
Alangi, or El Angel	New Granada	8 12 0 N.	80 40 0
Alausi	New Granada	2 12 0 N.	78 39 0
Albuquerque	New Spain	29 35 0 N.	79 40 0	6000.
Almaguer	New Granada	1 56 0 N.	76 54 0
Alvarado	New Spain	18 40 0 N.	96 36 0
Amapalla	Guatimala	13 12 0 N.	87 55 0
Amatiques	Guatimala	15 23 0 N.	89 0 0
Amparaes	La Plata	19 12 0 S.	67 3 0
Anco	Peru	13 14 0 S.	73 10 0
Andahuailas	Peru	13 25 0 S.	73 4 0
Antonio de Bejar	New Spain	29 50 0 N.	101 0 0	2000.
Antonio de los Cues	New Spain	18 3 0 N.		Populous, and an ancient Aztec fortress.
Antonio de la Florida	Chili	33 39 0 S.	71 41 0
Apalachia	Florida	29 43 0 N.	84 28 0
Apurimac, source of	Peru	16 10 or 20 S.		Near the city of Arequipa.
Archidona	New Granada	0 45 0 S.	76 48 0	700.
Arequipa	Peru	16 16 0 S.	71 58 0	24,000.
Arica	Peru	18 26 0 S.	70 18 0
Arispe	New Spain	30 36 0 N.	108 58 15	7600.
Asuncion	La Plata	24 47 0 S.	59 35 0	500 white families, and several thousands of Indians and mestizoes.
Atacama	La Plata	23 30 0 S.	69 30 0
Atrato, mouths of	the Gulf of Darien	8 2 0 N.	77 6 0	Rises in the mountains of Choco, and runs 95 leagues.
Atunxauxa	Peru	11 45 0 S.	75 48 0
Avila	New Granada	0 44 0 S.	76 25 0	300.
Austria, San Felipe de	Caraccas	10 31 0 N.	63 41 0	250 families.
Babahoyo	New Granada	1 47 0 S.		Populous.
Baracoa	Cuba	21 4 0 N.	76 10 0
Baranca del Malambo	New Granada	11 40 0 N.	74 30 0
Barbacoas	New Granada	1 42 0 S.	78 8 0
Barcelona	Caraccas	10 10 0 N.	64 47 0	14,000.
Barquisimeto	Caraccas	8 55 0 N.	66 55 0	11,300.
Batabano	Cuba	22 43 19 N.	82 25 41
Bayamo	Cuba	20 46 0 N.	76 55 0
Borja	New Granada	4 28 0 N.	76 24 0
Buenos Ayres	La Plata	34 35 26 S.	57 24 0	60,000.
Buga	New Granada	2 58 0 N.
Cadiz	Cuba	23 2 0 N.	79 55 0
Calabozo	Caraccas	8 40 0 N.		4800.
Cali	New Granada	3 15 0 N.	73 16 0
Callao	Peru	12 3 42 S.	77 14 0
Campeche	New Spain	19 50 45 N.	90 30 30	6000.
Carabaya	La Plata	14 40 0 S.	69 36 0
Caraccas	Caraccas	10 30 15 N.	67 4 45	20,000.
Cariaco	Caraccas	10 30 0 N.	63 39 0	6500.
Carora	Caraccas	10 0 0 N.		6200.
Carthagena	New Granada	10 26 36 N.	75 26 45	25,000.
Carthago	New Spain	9 5 0 N.	83 0 0
Carthago	New Granada	4 46 0 N.		5 or 6000.
Casas Grandes	New Spain	33 30 0 N.		Near the Rio Gila.
Castro	Chiloe	42 40 0 S.		150.
Castrovireyna	Peru	12 50 0 S.	74 45 0
Caxamarca	Peru	8 0 0 S.	76 10 0	Celebrated for the palace of the Incas it contains, which is at present inhabited by some of their descendants. Population 2000.
Cayman Grande Isle, east point	Caribbean Sea	19 19 0 N.	80 38 49
Caymanbrack, east point	Caribbean Sea	19 40 0 N.	79 47 22
Cerro de Axusco, mountain	New Spain	19 15 27 N.	99 12 30
Chachapoyas or Juan de la Frontera	Peru	6 12 0 S.	72 28 0
Chancay	Peru	11 33 47 S		Populous.
Chiapa Real	Guatimala	17 0 0 N.	93 23 0	500 families.
Chiapa de los Indios	Guatimala	17 5 0 N.	93 53 0	20,000.
Chihuahua	New Spain	28 50 0 N.	104 29 45	11,600.
Chillan	Chili	35 56 0 S.		Populous
Cholula	New Spain	19 2 6 N.	98 7 45	16,000.
Cholula, Pyramid of	New Spain	19 2 6 N.	98 12 15
Chuquisaca or La Plata	La Plata	19 40 0 S.	66 46 0	14,000.
Cinaloa	New Spain	26 0 0 N.	106 0 0	9500.
Coche, Isle of east cape	Caribbean Sea	10 45 0 N.	63 51 38
Cofre de Perote, mountain	New Spain	19 28 57 N.	97 8 34
Colchagua or San Fernando	Chili	34 18 0 S.		1500 families
Colonia del Sacramento	La Plata	34 22 0 S.	57 52 0
Comayaguaso or Valladolid	Guatimala	14 30 0 N.	88 19 0
Concepcion del Pao	Caraccas	8 42 0 N.	65 10 0	2300.
Concepcion	Chili	36 47 0 S.	73 9 0	13,000.
Concepcion	La Plata	23 23 0 S.	57 16 0	1550.
Copiapo	Chili	26 50 0 S.	70 18 0	400 families.
Coquimbo or La Serena	Chili	29 52 0 S.	71 19 0	500 families of whites, &c., and some Indians.
Cordova	New Spain	18 50 0 N.	96 56 0	800 families.
Cordova	La Plata	31 30 0 S.	63 16 0	5500.
Coro	Caraccas	11 24 0 N.	69 40 0	10,000.
Corientes, Cape	Pacific	20 25 30 N.	105 38 45
Coulemu	Chili	36 2 0 S.
Cuença	New Granada	2 53 49 S.	79 14 40	20,000.
Cumana	Caraccas	10 27 52 N.	64 9 47	16,800.
Cumana, port of	Caraccas	10 28 0 N.	64 9 45
Cumanacoa	Caraccas	10 16 11 N.		2300.
Curuguaty	La Plata	24 28 0 S.	56 54 0	2250.
Cuzcatlan	Guatimala	13 40 0 N.	89 20 0	5000.
Cuzco	Peru	13 25 0 S.	71 15 0	32,000.
Durango	New Spain	24 25 0 N.	103 34 45	12,000.
Fort Buenavista	New Spain	27 45 0 N.	110 7 15
Fort del Altar	New Spain	31 2 0 N.	111 45 45
Fort del Passage	New Spain	25 28 0 N.	103 12 15
Fort Passo del Norte	} New Spain	32 9 0 N.	104 42 45
Gibraltar	Caraccas	10 4 0 N.	67 36 0
Gracias a Dios	Guatimala	14 30 0 N.	90 6 0
Granada	Guatimala	11 15 0 N.	86 15 0
Guadalaxara	New Spain	21 9 0 N.	103 2 15	19,500.
Gualqui	Chili	36 44 0 S.
Guamanga	Peru	12 50 0 S.	77 56 0	26,000.
Guanara	Caraccas	8 14 0 N.	69 54 0	12,000.
Guanaxuato	New Spain	21 0 15 N.	100 54 45	70,600.
Guancavelica	Peru	12 45 0 S.	74 46 0	5200.
Guanta	Peru	12 30 0 S.	74 16 0
Guanuco	Peru	9 59 0 S.	75 56 0	Near the sources of the False Maranon.
Guarochiri	Peru	11 55 0 S.	76 18 0
Guatimala	Guatimala	14 28 0 N.	92 40 0	19,000.
Guaxaca	New Spain	17 30 0 N.		24,000.
Guayaquil	New Granada	2 12 0 S.	79 6 0	10,000.
Guayra	Caraccas	10 36 19 N.	67 6 45	8000.
Hacha	New Granada	11 28 0 N.	72 46 0
Hambato	New Granada	1 14 0 S.	78 25 0	9000.
Havannah	Cuba	23 9 27 N.	82 22 53	25,000.
Honda	New Granada	5 16 0 N.	72 36 15
Jaen	New Granada	5 25 0 S.		4000.
Janos or Yanos, fort	New Spain		106 45 15
Ica or Valverde	Peru	13 50 0 S.	75 28 0	6000.
Jorullo Volcano	New Spain		101 1 30
Juan de los Llanos	New Granada	3 0 0 N.	73 26 0
Juan Fernandez, Isle	Pacific	33 40 0 S.	80 30 0	110 Leagues from the coast of Chili.
Iztaccihuatl, volcano	New Spain	19 10 0 N.	98 34 45
Lambayeque	Peru	6 40 0 S.	79 56 0	8000.
Lampa	La Plata	14 55 0 S.	81 44 0
La Paz	La Plata	17 15 0 S.	68 25 0	20,000.
Las Corrientes	La Plata	27 32 0 S.	57 50 0
Latacunga	New Granada	0 55 14 S.	78 16 0	12,000.
Lima	Peru	12 2 25 S.	77 7 15	54,000.
Lipes	La Plata	21 40 0 S.	68 16 0
Londres	La Plata	19 12 0 S.		Founded in honour of Mary Queen of England.
Loxa	New Granada	4 0 0 S.	79 14 0	10,000.
Macas	New Granada	2 30 0 S.	78 5 0	1200.
Magdalena, mouths of	Caribbean Sea	11 0 0 N.	74 40 0	Main Channel.
Maldonado	La Plata	34 50 0 S.	55 36 0
Maracaybo	Caraccas	10 30 0 N.	71 46 0	24,000.
Maranon, Mouths of	Atlantic Ocean	0 30 0 S.	47 40 0 49 25 0
Mariquita	New Granada	5 16 0 N.	74 6 0	300.
Mas-afuera, Isle,	Pacific Ocean	33 47 0 S.	80 41 0
Mayobamba	Peru	7 0 0 S.	76 56 0
Melipilla	Chili	33 28 0 S.	70 7 0
Mendoza	La Plata	33 25 0 S.	69 47 0	6000.
Mercaderes	New Granada	1 45 0 N.		Limit of the Conquests of the Peruvian Incas to the north.
Merida	New Granada	8 10 0 N.	73 45 0	11,000.
Mexico	New Spain	19 25 45 N.	99 5 15	137,000.
Mompox	New Granada	9 19 0 N.	74 11 0
Moquehua	Peru	17 20 0 S.	70 56 0	Populous.
Monte Video	La Plata	34 54 48 S.	56 14 30	20,000.
Monterey	New Spain	36 36 0 N.	121 51 6	700.
Moran-mine	New Spain	20 10 4 N.	98 25 45
Nasca	Peru	14 48 0 S.	75 6 0
Nata	New Granada	8 35 0 N.	81 6 0
Neembucu	La Plata	26 52 0 S.	58 11 0	1730.
Nevado de Toluca, mountain	New Spain	19 11 33 N.	99 25 23
Neyva	New Granada	3 10 0 N.	74 16 0
Nicoya	Guatimala	10 42 0 N.	85 53 0
Nirgua	Caraccas	10 0 0 N.		3200.
Ocana	New Granada	7 50 0 N.	73 26 0
Omoa	Guatimala	15 50 0 N.	89 53 0
Orinoco, mouths of	Atlantic	8 30 0 N.	59 50 0	Boca de los Navios or Great Estuary.
Oropesa	La Plata	18 15 0 S.	67 6 0
Otabalo	New Granada	0 15 0 N.	77 56 0	15,000.
Pamplona	New Granada	6 30 0 N.	71 36 0
Panama	New Granada	9 0 30 N.	79 19 0
Paria	La Plata	18 50 0 S.	68 20 0
Pasquaro	New Spain		101 19 45	6000.
Payta	Peru	5 5 0 S.	80 50 0
Pensacola	Florida	30 28 0 N.	87 12 0
Perdido, mouth of	Mexican Gulf	30 26 0 N.	87 26 0	Boundary between the United States and Florida.
Petatlan hill	New Spain	17 32 0 N.	101 28 30
Petorca	Chili	31 45 0 S.	76 50 0	Populous.
Pico de Orizaba, mountain of	New Spain	19 2 17 N.	97 15 0
Piedra Blanca	New Spain	21 33 0 N.	105 27 30
Pisco	Peru	13 46 0 S.	76 9 0	300 Families.
Piura, or San Miguel	Peru	5 11 0 S.	80 36 0	7000. The oldest city of South America.
Pomabamba	La Plata	19 55 0 S.	64 8 0
Popayan	New Granada	2 28 38 N.	76 31 30	25,000.
Popocatepetl, mountain	New Spain	18 59 47 N.	98 33 0
Porco	La Plata	19 40 0 S.	67 56 0
Pore	New Granada	5 40 0 N.	72 13 0	500.
Porto Bello	Do.	10 27 0 N.	79 26 0
Potosi	La Plata	19 47 0 S.	67 22 0	30,000.
Puebla de los Angelos	New Spain	19 0 15 N.	98 2 30	67,800.
Puerto Cabello	Caraccas	10 20 0 N.	69 11 0	8000.
Puerto Rico	Puerto Rico	18 29 0 N.	66 0 >0	Populous.
Puna	La Plata	16 20 0 S.	70 26 0	Populous.
Punta del Ana Nueva, or Mission of Santa Cruz	New Spain	37 9 15 N.	122 23 38	440.
Queretaro	New Spain	20 36 39 N.	100 10 15	35,000.
Quillota	Chili	32 50 0 S.	71 18 0
Quito	New Granada	0 13 27 S.	78 10 15	70,000.
Rancagua, or Santa Cruz de Triana	Chili	34 18 0 S.	70 42 0
Real de Rosario mine	New Spain	23 30 0	N. 106 6 15	5600.
Real de los Alamos mine	Do.	27 8 0 N.	109 3 15	7900.
Realexo	Guatimala	12 45 0 N.	87 30 0
Riobamba	New Granada	1 20 0 S.	78 30 0	20,000.
Rio Bravo del Norte, mouth of	Gulf of Mexico	25 55 0 N.	97 30 55
Rio de la Plata, mouth of	Atlantic	35 30 0 S.	55 6 0	Cape Santa Maria, 180 miles north of the South Cape, St. Antonio.
Rioja	La Plata	29 12 0 S.	70 0 0
Salamanca	New Spain	20 40 0 N.	100 54 45
Salta	La Plata	24 17 0 S.	64 1 30
Saint Mary's River, mouth of	Atlantic	30 35 0 N.	81 41 0	Boundary between the United States and Florida.
Santander	New Spain	23 45 18 N.	98 12 8
San Antonio Cape	Cuba	21 55 0 N.	84 56 7
San Augustin	Florida	29 58 0 N.	81 40 0	4000.
San Bernardo de Tarija	La Plata	22 14 0 S.	65 20 0
San Blas	New Spain	21 32 48 N.	105 15 33
San Carlos	Chiloe	41 57 0 S.	73 58 0	1100.
San Carlos	Caraccas	9 20 0 N.		9500.
San Diego mission	New Spain	32 39 30 N.	117 18 0	1560.
San Felipe, or Cocorata	Caraccas	10 15 0 N.		6800.
San Francisco mission	New Spain	37 48 30 N.	122 36 45	820.
San Josef mission	New Spain	23 3 25 N.	109 40 53
San Juan del Rio	New Spain		99 52 15
San Juan mission	New Spain	33 29 0 N.	117 5 1	1000.
San Juan de la Frontera	La Plata	33 25 0 S.	68 55 5	6000.
San Joan del Pao	Caraccas	9 20 0 N.		5400.
San Juan de Pasto	New Granada	1 15 0 N.	76 46 0	7000.
San Lazaro, mountain	New Spain	24 47 0	N. 112 21 0
San Lucas, cape	New Spain	22 55 23 N.	109 50 23
San Luis de Cura	Caraccas	9 45 0 N.		4000.
San Luis de Gonzaga	Chili	36 45 0 S.
San Luis de Zacatecas	New Spain	23 0 0 N.	101 34 45	33,000.
San Miguel de Ibarra	New Granada	0 5 0 N.	77 40 0	10,000.
San Salvador	Guatimala	13 40 0 N.	89 20 0	5000.
San Sebastian de los Reyes	Caraccas	9 54 0 N.		3500.
San Sebastian del Oro, or La Plata	New Granada	2 50 0 N.	75 0 0
Santa Barbara, mission	New Spain	34 26 0 N.	119 45 15	1090.
Santa Buenaventura	New Spain	34 17 0 N.	119 25 15	940.
Santa Fé	New Spain	36 12 0 N.	104 52 45	3600.
Santa Fé, or Bogota	New Granada	4 6 0 N.	78 30 0	30,000.
Santa Fé de Antioquia	New Granada	6 48 0 N.	74 36 0
Santa Marta	New Granada	11 19 2 N.	74 4 30
Santiago	Chili	33 26 0 S.	70 44 0	36,000.
Santiago del Estero	La Plata	27 46 0 S.	65 12 0	500 Families.
Santo Tomé	Caraccas	8 8 11 N.	63 54 2	6 or 8000.
Sechura	Peru	5 32 33 S.		400 Families.
Silla de Caraccas mountain, highest-peak	Caraccas	10 31 15 N.	64 40 55
Sisal	New Spain	21 10 0 N.	89 59 30	Port of Merida de Yucatan.
Soconusco	Guatimala	15 28 0 N.	94 36 0
Socorro, Isle	Pacific	18 48 0 N.	110 9 0
Suchitepeque	Guatimala	14 44 0 N.	93 36 0	1480.
Tabasco	New Spain	18 34 0 N.	93 36 0
Tacames	New Granada	0 52 0 N.	62 0 0
Talca, or San Augustin	Chili	35 13 0 S.	71 1 0	Populous.
Tarma	Peru	11 35 0 S.	75 17 0	5600.
Tasco	New Spain	18 35 0 N.	99 28 45
Tehuantepeque	New Spain	16 20 0 N.	95 1 0	2600 Families ofIndians and 50 of Whites.
Teneriffe	New Granada	10 2 0 N.	74 30 0
Tezcuco	New Spain	19 30 40 N.	98 51 0
Tiahuanaco	La Plata	17 17 0 S.		Famous for some singular monuments.
Timana	New Granada	2 12 0 N.	74 46 0
Tocayma	New Granada	4 16 0 N.	74 59 0	700.
Tocuyo	Caraccas	9 35 0 N.	70 20 0	10,200.
Todos los Santos	New Spain	23 26 0 N.	110 18 0
Tolu	New Granada	9 32 0 N.	75 30 0
Tomina	La Plata	19 10 0 S.	65 46 0
Tres Marias Isle south cape of the east isle	Pacific	26 16 0 N.	106 17 30
Trinidad	Cuba	21 48 20 N.	80 0 52
Truxillo	Guatimala	15 51 0 N.	86 8 0
Truxillo	Peru	8 5 40 S.	79 19 13	5800.
Truxillo	Caraccas	8 40 0 N.		7600.
Tucuman	La Plata	26 49 0 S.	64 36 0
Tumbez	Peru	3 26 0 S.	80 6 0
Tunja	New Granada	5 5 0 N.	72 56 0	400.
Ucayale, junction of, with the False Maranon	New Granada	4 55 0 S.		Forms the Maranon.
Valdivia	Chili	40 5 0 S.	80 5 0	Populous.
Valencia	Caraccas	10 9 0 N.	68 25 0	8000.
Valladolid	New Spain	19 42 0 N.	100 52 0	18,000.
Valparaiso	Chili	33 0 30 S.	71 38 15	Populous.
Varinas	Caraccas	7 40 0 N.		6000.
Velez	New Granada	5 50 0 N.	73 16 0
Vera Cruz	New Spain	19 11 52 N.	96 8 45	16,000.
Vera paz, or Coban	Guatimala	15 50 0 N.	91 14 0
Villa del Fuerte	New Spain	26 50 0 N.	108 13 15
Villa del Principe	Cuba	21 17 0 N.	77 45 0
Villa Rica	La Plata	25 48 0 S.	56 31 0	3000.
Xalapa	New Spain	19 30 8 N.	96 54 45	13,000.
Xagua, Boca de	Cuba		80 34 7
Xuxui	La Plata	23 5 0 S	66 2 0

To this table it will not be uninteresting to add a summary of the population, &c., of the governments of Spanish America.

	Inhabitants.			Inhabitants.
New Spain	6,500,000,	of which its capital,	Mexico, has	137,000
Guatimala	1,200,000,	" "	Guatimala	19,000
Cuba	550,000,	" "	Havannah	25,000
Puerto Rico	136,000,	" "	Puerto Rico, very populous.
Floridas	uncertain,	" "	San Augustin, Pensacola.	4000
New Granada	1,800,000,	" "	Santa Fé de Bogota	30,000
Caraccas	900,000,	" "	Caraccas	20,000
Peru	1,300,000,	" "	Lima	54,000
Chili	800,000,	" "	Santiago	36,000
Buenos Ayres or La Plata	1,100,000,	" "	Buenos Ayres	60,000
Making	14,286,000.

To which may be added 50,000 more for Cuba, as according to the latest enquiries that island possesses a population of 600,000 souls; thus there will be a total known population of 14,336,000, and allowing for the inhabitants of the Floridas, and the unnumbered Indians of the kingdom of La Plata, the actual number of persons existing under the government of Spain in the Americas, will not fall short of fifteen millions, while the Portuguese subjects in Brazil amount only to 3,300,000, of whom one million and a half are negroes, one million are Indians and the rest whites.

Of the above total of 14,336,000 souls, there are 3,000,000 whites born in the country, 200,000 Europeans, and the remaining 11,136,000 are Indians, negroes and mixed races, or castes, of which the Indians bear by far the greater proportion, the negroes in Caraccas amounting to 54,000, in Cuba to 212,000; the other states having comparatively very few slaves.

The spaces which this mass of people occupy, in the different governments, have been thus calculated:

	Square leagues.
New Spain extends over a surface equal to	118,748
Guatimala	26,152
Cuba and Puerto Rico	6,921
Floridas	8,555
New Granada	64,520
Caraccas	47,856
Peru	30,390
Chili	22,574
Buenos Ayres or La Plata	143,014
	468,730

Making an extent of country equal to 468,730 square leagues; whilst Great Britain, which has a population of 12,596,800 souls, occupies a space equal only to 87,502 square miles.

The Mines of the empire of Spanish America furnish annually in gold and silver in—

	£ Sterling.
New Spain to the value of	5,030,800
New Granada	507,000
Peru and Chili	1,730,000
Buenos Ayres or La Plata	882,000
	8,149,800

Making a total of 8,149,800l. sterling; to which may be added more than another million for the contraband trade.

The Commerce of these countries annually averages in—

	£ Sterling.
Importations	12,826,500
Exportations of agricultural produce	6,500,000
Exportations of gold and silver	8,149,800

And the annual Revenue is equal to nearly eight millions of pounds sterling.

---

INDEX
TO
THE PRINCIPAL PLACES AND SUBJECTS
TREATED OF IN THE FOREGOING VOLUMES.

---

• A
• Abancay, district and town of, Peru, ii. [143].
• Abancay, battle of the bridge of, ii. [98].
• Abipons Indians, ii. [228].
• Abolishment of the slave trade, ii. [22].
• Acamapitzin, King of Mexico, i. 109.
• Acapulco, city of Mexico, unhealthiness of, i. 34.
• Great mart for New Spain and India, 41.
• Description of, population, &c., 133.
• Aconcagua, city and province of, Chili, ii. [269].
• Agave, or aloe, supplies the liquor most drank in Mexico, and method of making it, i. 39.
• Aguas Calientes, city of New Spain, i. 101.
• Aguaracatay, lake of La Plata, ii. [163].
• Aguatulco, town of New Spain, i. 153.
• Aguilar Jeromimo, found on the Isle of Cozumel, by Cortez, i. 196.
• Ahuitzotl, Mexican King, i. 113.
• Aillavalu toqui or war chief of Chili, ii. [237].
• Alamos, mine of, New Spain, i. 92.
• Alangi, or St. Jago El Angel, town of Guatimala, i. 179.
• Alausi, city of New Granada, i. 320.
• Albuquerque, town of New Spain, i. 69.
• Alcolhuacan, kingdom, i. 103.
• Alfinger and Sailler, German merchants, cruelties practised by, in Caraccas, ii. [59].
• Alligator of New Spain, i. 40.
• Of New Granada, 257. 317.
• Almagro, revolt of, against Pizarro, ii. [97].
• Conquest of Chili by, [234].
• Almendral, town of Chili, ii. [269].
• Alpaco or Peruvian sheep, ii. [255].
• Alto de Tiopullo, chain of the, i. 300.
• Alvarado, expedition to Peru by, ii. [96].
• Amalgamation works of New Spain; mercury consumed by the, i. 44.
• Amatiques, gulf, New Spain, i. 166.
• Amazonia, discovery of, by Orellana, i. 292.
• Ambergris Key or Ubero Island, i. 197.
• Amelia island, Florida, i. 19.
• America, Spanish, extent of, i. 208.
• America, Spanish, North, era of discovery of, i. 1.
• Extent of, 4.
• Political and territorial divisions, i. 6.
• America, Spanish, South, general idea of, i. 207.
• Boundaries, 208.
• Political divisions, ib.
• Era of discovery, 209.
• America, Portuguese, population of, ii. [319].
• Amerigo Vespucci, publishes the first regular account of America, i. 3.
• Voyages of, 211.
• Amotape, village of Peru, ii. [121].
• Amparaes, district of La Plata, ii. [178].
• Ampolaba, or Boa Constrictor of Tucuman, ii. [206].
• Ampues, first governor of Caraccas, ii. [20].
• Anahuac, ancient name of Mexico, i. 104.
• Anahuac, Cordillera of, i. 35.
• Plain of ib.
• Anco, town of Peru, ii. [139].
• Ancud, gulf of, ii. [283].
• Andagualas, district and town of Peru, ii. [140].
• Andalusia, New. See New Andalusia.
• Andero, or St. Andres Isle, gulf of Mexico, i. 199.
• Andes, Cordillera of, in New Spain, i. 35. 68.
• Description of the, 219.
• Andes de Cuzco, ii. [144].
• Andes of Chili, ii. [248].
• Angaraes, district of Peru, ii. [134].
• Angelos Puebla de los, city of New Spain, i. 140.
• Angostura, or Santo Tomé, capital of Guiana, ii. [4].
• Animal food, the secondary article of human nourishment in New Spain, i. 39.
• Animals of New Spain, i. 40.
• Antioquia, or Santa Fé, province of New Granada, i. 271.
• City of ditto, 272.
• Antiquities of New Spain, i. 52.
• Antonio, St., Castle or Citadel of Cumana, ii. [27].
• Apacheria, country of New Spain, i. 72.
• Apaches, Indians, i. 72. 75.
• Apalachia, town of, Florida, i. 12.
• River of, Florida, 15.
• Apallachicola, river, Florida, i. 14.
• Apo-Ulmens, chiefs of the Araucanians, ii. [290].
• Apolabamba, district of La Plata, ii. [191].
• Apura, or Apure, river of Caraccas, i. 262. ii. [66].
• Apurimac, river, i. 325.
• Sources of, in Peru, ii. [149].
• Araguato, singular monkey in Caraccas, ii. [39].
• Aranta, town of, Peru, ii. [147].
• Araucania, or Indian Chili boundaries, extent, ii. [287].
• Araucanian Indians, ii. [288].
• Arauco, river of Caraccas, ii. [67].
• Araura, town of Caraccas, ii. [57].
• Araya, salt works of, in Caraccas, ii. [30].
• Archbishopric of Mexico, i. 48.
• Of Lima, ii. [130].
• Archidona, town of Quito, i. 335.
• Archipelago of Chiloe, ii. [283].
• Arequipa, intendancy of, in Peru, ii. [147].
• Arequipa, city of, Peru, scite, population, foundation, rivers, climate, vicinity, trade, port, ii. [147].
• Bishopric, public edifices, earthquakes at, [148].
• Ari, singular deity of the Muzos Indians, i. 270.
• Arica, district and city of, Peru, ii. [150].
• Arispe, city of, New Spain, i. 89.
• Armadillo, ii. [256].
• Army, of New Spain, i. 56. 61.
• Aroa, river of, Caraccas, ii. [45].
• Arrival of the Spaniards in Peru, i. 288.
• Asangaro y Asila, district of, La Plata, ii. [188].
• Asterillo, port of Chili, ii. [276].
• Astorpilcos, descendants of the Peruvian Incas, ii. [125].
• Ascension, river, New Spain, i. 87.
• Asuncion, capital of Paraguay, ii. [203].
• Atabalipa, or Atahualpa, History of, in Quito, i. 286.
• Fifteenth Inca of Peru, ii. [86]. 90.
• Death of, [94].
• Atacama, district and town of, La Plata, ii. [190].
• Atacames, government of. See Tacames.
• Atavillos, marquess of, title granted to Pizarro, ii. [96].
• Atlixco, town of, New Spain, i. 143.
• Atrato, river of, Darien, i. 240.
• Atures, cataract, i. 221.
• Audienza, Real, of New Spain, i. 33. 59.
• Audienza, Real, of Santa Fé de Bogota, i 214.
• Of Quito, ib.
• Of Lima, ii. [77].
• Of Buenos Ayres, [171].
• Of Los Charcas, [173].
• Augustin, San, capital of, East Florida, i. 11.
• Avila, town of Quito, i. 336.
• Axayacatl, King of Mexico, i. 112.
• Ayaupa, Isle of the Archipelago of Chonos, ii. [287].
• Aymaraez, district of, Peru, ii. [146].
• Aztecas, ancient Mexican people, i. 106.
• B
• Baba, district of Quito, i. 313.
• Babahoyo, district of Quito, i. 312.
• Town of ditto, 313.
• Bacuachi fort, New Spain, i. 92.
• Baeza, town of Quito, i. 335.
• Bahia Negra, Spanish boundaries on the Paraguay, ii. [165].
• Balize, British settlement in Honduras, i. 173.
• Balsas, or Rafts of Guayaquil, i. 315.
• Banana, uses of the, in New Spain, i. 37. 244.
• Baracoa, town of Cuba, i. 191.
• Baragan, mountain of New Granada, i. 221. 276.
• Baranca del Malambo, town of New Granada, i. 250.
• Barcelona, province of. See New Barcelona.
• Barcelona, city of, in Caraccas, scite, foundation, buildings, ii. [31].
• Population, trade, [32].
• Barquisimeto, city of Caraccas, population, scite, foundation, climate, trade, ii. [53].
• Public buildings, &c., [54].
• Bastidas, discoveries of, i. 213.
• Batabano, town of Cuba, i. 191.
• Batopilas, native silver sometimes found in the mines of, i. 43.
• ----, mining town of New Spain, i. 94.
• Bavispe fort, in New Spain, i. 92.
• Bayamo, or St. Salvador, town of Cuba, i. 191.
• Benalcazar, conquest of Quito by, i. 214. 288.
• Beni river, i. 326. ii. [144]. 194.
• Biriquite, district of New Granada, i. 274.
• Biru, town of Peru, ii. [125].
• Biscay, New. See New Biscay.
• Bishops of New Spain, i. 48.
• Blanca isle, Caribbean sea, ii. [298].
• Blanco, river of New Spain, i. 149.
• Blanquillo, mountain of Chili, ii. [249].
• Bluefields river, Guatimala, i. 172.
• Boca de los Navios, great mouth of the Orinoco, ii. [41].
• Boca del Sierpe and Del Drago, names given by Columbus to the channels between Trinidad and Caraccas, ii. [19].
• Bochica, great lawgiver of the Bogotians, i. 217. 228.
• Bogota. See Santa Fé.
• Bolaños mines, in New Spain, i. 43
• Bolivar, leader of the insurgents in Caraccas, ii. [3].
• Bolson de Mapimi, desert in New Spain, i. 94.
• Bonacao island, in the gulf of Mexico, i. 197.
• Boracha, high rock of the Caribbean sea, ii. [299].
• Bore or Pororoca of the Maranon, i. 331.
• Of other rivers, 332.
• Borja, town of Quito, i. 324.
• Borriquen, ancient name of Puerto Rico, i. 182.
• Boundary line between the United States and Florida, i. 16.
• Bravo, Rio del Norte, description of, i. 45. 70.
• Estuary of, 98.
• Bridges, pendulous, i. 224.
• Rope, on the Magdalena river, 256.
• Natural, 265.
• Peruvian, over the Rio Desaguadero, ii. [186].
• Brigantin, chain of mountains in Caraccas, ii. [30].
• Bucaniers, plunder of Maracaybo by, ii. [62].
• Buenara, lake of New Spain, i. 87.
• Buenavista, mountain of Caraccas, ii. [39].
• Buenos Ayres, viceroyalty of.
• Boundaries and extent, ii. [155].
• Political and territorial divisions, [156].
• History and discovery, ib.
• Late events in, [159].
• Present condition of, [161].
• Features, climate, &c., ib.
• Lakes, [162].
• Rivers, [164].
• Commerce and resources, [167].
• Capital, [168].
• Provinces of, [171]-230.
• ----, government of.
• Boundaries, history, &c., ii. [220].
• Climate, features, &c., [222].
• Method of travelling over the plains, [223].
• Rivers, [224].
• Chief town and cities, [225]-228.
• Indian nations, [228].
• ----, city of.
• Population, scite, foundation, streets, squares, houses, cathedral and churches, ii. [168].
• Navigation of the La Plata, buildings, gardens, [169].
• Markets, trade, climate, pamperos, royal audience, [170].
• Buga, department of New Granada, i. 278.
• Burburata, village of Caraccas, ii. [50].
• Burying-places of the ancient Peruvians, i. 304.
• Butter of the Guacharo, ii. [38].
• C
• Cabot, Sebastian, discovery of the Rio de la Plata by, ii. [156].
• Cacao or chocolate tree, i. 257.
• ---- used as money by the Mexicans, i. 120.
• Cachemecan, kingdom, i. 105.
• Cachipampa, battle of, ii. [99].
• Caciques, of New Spain, i. 32.
• Cadaguela, toqui of the Chilese, ii. [241].
• Cadiz, town of Cuba, i. 192.
• Calabozo, city of Caraccas, ii. [57].
• Calbuco, island of the Archipelago of Chiloe, ii. [287].
• Calcaylares, district of, Peru, ii. [145].
• Calender of the Muyscas, i. 217.
• Callao, port of, Lima, ii. [119].
• Cali, department of, New Granada, i. 278.
• ----, town of, New Granada, i. 280.
• California, New and Old, extent, boundaries, and discovery, i. 76.
• Population, missions, 78.
• Natives, 79.
• Animals, commerce, 81.
• Description of the missions, 82.
• Capital, 83.
• Callo, palace of the Incas, i. 301.
• Caloto, department of, New Granada, i. 278
• Calquin, or large eagle of Chili, ii. [259].
• Camana, district and town of Peru, ii. [148].
• Campeche, city of New Spain, i. 156.
• Scite, fortifications, manufactures, logwood cutters, population, 157.
• Cana, town or fortress of Darien, i. 240.
• Canal de la Raspadura in Choco, unites the Pacific and Atlantic oceans, i. 273.
• ---- of Mexico, i. 131.
• ---- de Pedernales, a mouth of the Orinoco, ii. [41].
• Canatagua, Sierra de, chain of mountains dividing North and South America, i. 177.
• Canas y Canches or Tinta, district of, Peru, ii. [145].
• Canavami, mountain, i. 221.
• Canete, town and district of, Peru, ii. [133].
• Cannibalism, nations probably accused falsely of, i. 232.
• Cansada, immense stone of the wall of Cuzco, ii. [142].
• Canta, town and district of Peru, ii. [132].
• Capac Yupanqui, fifth Inca of Peru, ii. [85].
• Capaguas Indians, ii. [153].
• Capanaparo, river of, Caraccas, ii. [67].
• Cape Casinas, name given to Cape Honduras by Columbus, i. 210.
• ---- Catoche, New Spain, i. 173.
• ---- Cross, Florida, i. 19.
• ---- Florida, i. 19.
• ---- Gracias a Dios, Guatimala, i. 172.
• ---- Honduras, i. 173.
• ---- Roman, Florida, i. 19.
• ---- Sable, Florida, i. 19.
• ---- St. Blaz, Florida, i. 19.
• Captain General of Caraccas, ii. [2].
• Capure, a mouth of the Orinoco, ii. [41].
• Caqueta, River, New Granada, sources of, i. 281.
• Caraccas, Captain generalship of, boundaries and extent, ii. [1].
• Political divisions and government, discovery and history, [2].
• Capital, [4].
• Features of the country, &c., [8].
• Rivers, [9].
• Indians, [12].
• Lakes, [15].
• Provinces, [18].
• Commerce, [47].
• ----, city of, situation and foundation, ii. [4].
• Streets, buildings, population, theatre, surrounding country, [5].
• Climate, earthquake, [6].
• Port, [7].
• ----, Islands, Caribbean sea, ii. [299].
• Carabaya, district and town of, La Plata, ii. [189].
• Carahuasi, district of, Peru, ii. [141].
• Caranjas, district of, La Plata, ii. [180].
• Carapochas Indians, ii. [153].
• Caratapona, isle in Lake Valencia, ii. [17].
• Carguirazo, mountain of Quito, i. 302.
• Cariaco, Gulf of Caraccas, ii. [28].
• ----, town of Caraccas, ii. [39].
• Carib Indians, i. 222. ii. [14].
• Caramari, Indian name of Carthagena, i. 212.
• Caripe, river of Caraccas, ii. [39].
• ----, convent of Caraccas, ii. [37].
• Carora, city of Caraccas, ii. [52].
• Carthagena, province of New Granada, boundaries, extent, features, produce, forests, animals, i. 241.
• Birds, insects, reptiles, 243.
• Fruits, inhabitants, 244.
• Discovery, 245.
• Capital, 246.
• Towns, 250.
• ----, city of, in New Granada, situation, suburbs, i. 246.
• Fortifications, bay, climate, 247.
• Public buildings, inhabitants, 248.
• Offices, trade, history, 249.
• Exports and imports, 250.
• Carthago, town of Popayan, i. 280.
• ----, town of Guatimala, i. 176.
• Casanare, province of New Granada, i. 264.
• Casas Grandes de Rio Gila, i. 75.
• ---- Grandes in New Biscay, i. 106.
• Casibos Indians, ii. [152].
• Cassava bread, i. 37.
• ---- or manioc forms the bread of the Indians, i. 216.
• Cassiquiari river, i. 332.
• Cassiquiari, river, ii. [10].
• Cassiquin river, ii. [154].
• Castro, town of Chiloe, ii. [286].
• ---- vireyna, district and town of Peru, ii. [137].
• Catacatche village, of New Granada, i. 304.
• Cataract of Tequendama, i. 224.
• Cataracts of the Rio Pusambio in Popayan, 281.
• Cataract of Maypures and Atures, 221. ii. [11].
• Catorce, mine of New Spain, i. 98.
• Cauca, river of New Granada, i. 246. 279.
• Caupolican, toqui of the Chilese, ii. [238].
• Cauquenes, town of Chili, ii. [275].
• Causeway of ancient Mexico, i. 120. 132.
• Of the Incas in Quito, 285. 308.
• Cavern of the Guacharo in Caraccas, ii. [37].
• Of Rapel in Chili, [274].
• Caxamarca, defeat and imprisonment of Huascar Inca at, i. 287.
• Battle of, ii. [92].
• District and town of Peru, [125].
• Caxatambo, town and district of, Peru, ii. [129]
• Cayambe Urcu, mountain of Quito, i. 300.
• ----, village of New Granada, i. 304.
• Cayancura, toqui of the Chilese, ii. [241].
• Caylloma, town and district of Peru, ii. [149].
• Cayman Lake, New Spain, i. 46.
• Cedros, Isle, Pacific Ocean, i. 200.
• Celaya, city of, New Spain, i. 102.
• Cerro de la Giganta, chain of mountains in California, i. 80.
• Cerro del Brigantin, chain of mountains in Caraccas, ii. [30].
• Cerro de la Sal, chain of mountains in Peru, ii. [153].
• Cerro de Cuchivano, chain of mountains in Caraccas, ii. [34].
• Chacao, town of the island of Chiloe, ii. [286].
• Chacao, plain, near Caraccas, ii. [5].
• Chachapoyas, district of, Peru, ii. [125].
• Chachapoyas, or Juan de la Frontera, town of, Peru, ii. [126].
• Chacos, territory of, La Plata, ii. [195].
• ----, river of, La Plata, ii. [207].
• Chagre, river of, New Granada, i. 231.
• Chalco, lake, New Spain, i. 130.
• Chancay, district and town of, Peru, ii. [132].
• Chapala, lake of, New Spain, i. 46. 100.
• Chapultepec, aqueduct of, Mexico, i. 66.
• Charcas, mines of, New Spain, i. 98.
• ----, or Potosi, government of, boundaries, and districts of, ii. [171].
• History, capital of, [172].
• Provincial descriptions, [173].
• ----, district of, La Plata, ii. [173].
• Chayantas, district of, La Plata, ii. [179].
• Chaymas, Indians, ii. [12].
• Cheuque, or ostrich of Chili, ii. [259].
• Chia, consort of Bochica, singular tradition concerning, i. 228.
• Chiapa, province of Guatimala, boundaries, extent, features, and rivers, i. 163.
• Productions, animals, inhabitants, capital, 164.
• ----, Real, city of Guatimala, situation, government, inhabitants, cathedral, i. 164.
• ---- de los Indios, city of Guatimala, scite, description, inhabitants, climate, churches, amusements of the natives, vicinity, trade, i. 165.
• ----, river of, Guatimala, i. 164.
• Chibcha, or language of the Muyscas, i. 218.
• Chica, an intoxicating liquor made by the Indians of Peru and La Plata, ii. [189].
• Chichas y Tarijas, district, La Plata, ii. [177].
• Chicometepec, river, New Spain, i. 155.
• Chihuahua, city of, New Spain, i. 94.
• Chilca, famous for saltpetre, town of, Peru, ii. [133].
• Chilese, ancient, ii. [232].
• Chillan, mountain of, Chili, ii. [249].
• Chillan, town, and district of, Chili, ii. [276].
• Chili, Captain-generalship of, extent and boundaries, ii. [230].
• Political and territorial divisions and government, [231].
• Discovery, and history of, ib.
• Climate, features, [243].
• Recent events in, [244].
• Rivers, and lakes, [250].
• Mines, [251].
• Population, [253].
• Animals, ib.
• Commerce, [262].
• Capital, [263].
• Continental provinces, [264].
• Insular provinces, [282].
• Araucania, [287].
• Chili-dugu, or language of the Chilese, ii. [253].
• Chilihueques, or Araucanian sheep, ii. [254].
• Chiloe, islands of, ii. [283].
• Chilotes, Indians, ii. [284].
• Chilques y Masques, district of, Peru, ii. [145].
• Chimalapa, river of, New Spain, i. 155.
• Chimbo, district and town of, New Granada, i. 310.
• Chimborazo, mountain, i. 219. 298.
• Chingasa, mountain of, New Granada, i. 265.
• Chiquillanes, Indians, ii. [288].
• Chiquitos, Indians, ii. [193].
• Chiquitos, district and town of, La Plata, ii. [192].
• Chiriguanos, Indians, ii. [193].
• Chiriqui, bay of, Guatimala, i. 199.
• Choco, province of, New Granada, i. 273.
• Chocolate, name originally Mexican, i. 39.
• ----, manufacture of, i. 258.
• Chocope, town of, Peru, ii. [125].
• Chollolan, republic, i. 104.
• Cholula, pyramids of, i. 141.
• ----, city of, New Spain, ancient capital of the republic of Chollolan, population and history, i. 142.
• Cholutecas, or Xeses, district and town of, Guatimala, i. 163.
• Choropampa, or the plain of shells, Peru, ii. [80].
• Chota, mines of, Peru, ii. [79]. [125].
• Chuchanga, town of, New Granada, i. 322.
• Chucuito, district and town of, La Plata, ii. [185].
• Chucuito, lake, La Plata, ii. [163]. 185.
• Chumbivilcas, district of, Peru, ii. [146].
• Chunchos, country of, Peru, ii. [145]. 154.
• Chuquisaca, or La Plata, city of La Plata, scite, climate, ii. [172].
• Foundation, buildings, Indians, royal audience, magistracy, and population, [173].
• Cinaloa, district, New Spain, i. 90.
• ----, city of, New Spain, i. 92.
• Cinchona, or Peruvian bark, i. 320.
• Citlaltepetl, or Pico de Orizaba, i. 150.
• Claim of the Spanish government to the west coast of America, i. 5.
• ---- of the United States government to part of New Spain, i. 56.
• Clayborne, fort of, the United States, i. 96.
• Clergy of New Spain, i. 48. 61.
• Climate of Florida, i. 9.
• ---- of New Spain, i. 34.
• ---- of Cuba, i. 186.
• ---- of New Granada, i. 218.
• ---- of Caraccas, ii. [6].
• ---- of Peru, ii. [81].
• ---- of La Plata, ii. [161].
• ---- of Chili, ii. [245].
• Coaguila, city and province of, New Spain, i. 96.
• Coal of New Spain, i. 45.
• Coban, city of, Guatimala, i. 166.
• Coca, or betel of America, i. 275.
• Cochabamba, province of, La Plata, ii. [181].
• Coche, Island, Caribbean Sea, ii. [299].
• Cochineal, of New Spain, i. 39.
• Cocinas, Indians, i. 261.
• Cocollar, chain of the, in Caraccas, ii. [35].
• Cocomaricopas, Indians, i. 87.
• Cofre de Perote, mountain, i. 35. 150.
• Coinage of the mint of Mexico, i. 53.
• ---- of Santa Fé de Bogota, i. 228.
• ---- of Popayan, ib.
• ---- of Lima, ii. [81].
• ---- of Potosi, ii. [175].
• Colchagua, province and city of, Chili, ii. [273].
• Colhuacan, kingdom, i. 107.
• Colima, volcano of, New Spain, i. 100.
• College of mines at, Mexico, i. 45.
• Colon, Don Pedro Nuno, Duke of Veragua, viceroy of New Spain, a descendant of Columbus, i. 31.
• Colonia del Sacramento, territory of La Plata, ii. [228].
• Colorado, river of, New Spain, i. 45. 87.
• Colorado de Texas, river of, New Spain, i. 98.
• Colorado, river of, Caraccas, ii. [36].
• Columbus, first voyage of, and discovery of America by, i. 2.
• Second voyage, i. 3.
• Third voyage, ib.
• Sent to Spain in irons, ib.
• Fourth voyage, 4. 210.
• Wrecked on Jamaica, 211.
• Death of, at Valladolid, ib.
• Discovery of Caraccas by, ii. [18].
• Comandantes Generales, of New Spain, i. 33.
• Comayaguas, or Valladolid, city in Guatimala, i. 175.
• Commerce of New Spain, i. 53.
• ---- of Cuba, i. 190.
• ---- of New Granada, i. 215.
• ---- of La Guayra, the port of Caraccas, ii. [8].
• ---- of Caraccas, ii. [47].
• ---- of Peru, ii. [77].
• ---- of La Plata, ii. [167].
• ---- of Paraguay, ii. [202].
• ---- of Chili, ii. [262].
• ---- of the island of Chiloe, ii. [285].
• Concepcion del Pao, city of, Caraccas, ii. [40].
• ----, city of, La Plata, ii. [204].
• ---- or Penco, city of, Chili, ii. [277].
• Conchocando, title of the kings of Quito, i. 284.
• Conchapatu, silver mine of, Peru, ii. [132].
• Conchucos, city and district of, Peru, ii. [129].
• Condor, ii. [260].
• Condesuyos de Arequipa, district of Peru, ii. [148].
• Condonoma, mine of, Peru, ii. [145].
• Conibos Indians, ii. [152].
• Conquest of Mexico, i. 22.
• Continental provinces of Chili, ii. [264].
• Continent of America, first discovered by Cabot, ii. [196].
• Conuco, or public garden of a mission village, ii. [34].
• Copacavana town, on an island in lake Chucuito, ii. [186].
• Copala, mine of New Spain, i. 100.
• Copiapo, province and town of Chili, ii. [265].
• Copper, ancient Mexicans made their tools of, i. 44.
• Coquimbo, province and town of Chili, ii. [265].
• Coquimbanes, Islands of Chili, ii. [282].
• Corcobado, mountain of Chili, ii. [249]. 285. 302.
• Cordilleras, of New Spain, i. 35.
• Cordilleras de los Andes, description of, i. 219.
• Cordillera, of New Granada and Caraccas, i. 220.
• Cordillera of the cataracts of the Orinoco, i. 221.
• Of Chiquitos, 222.
• Of Santa Marta, 253.
• Of Merida, 261.
• Of Santa Fé, 265.
• Of Santa Fé de Antioquia, 272.
• Of Popayan, 276.
• Of Quito, 298.
• Of Caraccas, ii. [8].
• Of Chiquitos [162]. 193.
• Of the Chiriguanos [192].
• Of Chili [248]. 301.
• Cordova, city of New Spain, i. 147.
• Cordova, city of La Plata, scite, edifices, trade, district surrounding, ii. [212].
• Corientes, river of La Plata, ii. [166]. City of La Plata, [227].
• Cortez, Fernando, history of, i. 21.
• Conquest of Mexico by, 22.
• Sets sail from Cuba, and arrives at Tabasco, meets the embassadors of Montezuma, who are astonished at the Europeans, arms, horses, &c., 23.
• Present from Montezuma, mutiny of the army, burns his fleet, 24.
• Marches for Mexico, conquers the Tlascalans, 25.
• Arrives at Mexico, seizes the Emperor, marches to fight Narvaez, 26.
• Returns to and evacuates Mexico, Montezuma slain, 28.
• Recruits his army, and again lays siege to the city, which capitulates on Guatimozin being taken and put to death, 29.
• Discovery of California by, 77.
• Cosumel Isle, discovery of, by Grijalva, history of, &c. i. 194.
• Costa Rica, province of Guatimala, i. 176.
• Cotabamba, district of, Peru, ii. [145].
• Cotopaxi volcano, i. 299.
• Coulemu, town of Chili, ii. [276].
• Council of the mines in New Spain, i. 45.
• Of the Indies, ii. [107].
• Crater of Pichinca, i. 299.
• Creoles, of New Spain, i. 47.
• Crevice of Icononzo, i. 266.
• Of Chota, 303.
• Crevices of the Andes, i. 224.
• Cruces, town of Panama, i. 231.
• Cuba, island of, situation, i. 183.
• Supposed to have been part of the continent, gulf-stream, extent, position, discovery, 184.
• History, climate, 185.
• Productions, forests, 186.
• Mines, cultivated part, population, mountains, 187.
• Government, revenue, army, capital, 188.
• Towns, 190.
• City of, 191.
• Pinos isle, 192.
• Cubagua, island, Caribbean sea, ii. [299].
• Cuchillo de Guanaguana, mountain of Caraccas, ii. [36].
• Cucurucho de Tumiriquiri, mountain of Caraccas, ii. [35].
• Cundinamarca, kingdom of, i. 217.
• Cuença, district and city of New Granada, i. 318.
• Cuernavaca, city of New Spain, i. 133.
• Cues, St. Antonio de los, ancient Aztec fort, i. 153.
• Cujo or Cuyo, government of La Plata, ii. [215].
• Boundaries, climate, features, history, rivers, lakes, productions, [216].
• Commerce, capital, [218].
• Cuitlahualtzin, or Quetlavaca, King of Mexico, i. 117.
• Culpeu, or Chili fox, singular habits of, ii. [257].
• Cumana, province of. See New Andalusia.
• Cumana, city of Caraccas, scite, ii. [25].
• Port, citadel, rivers, suburbs, buildings, climate, population, [26].
• Indians, [27].
• Customs of the inhabitants, harbour, earthquakes, [28].
• Environs, [30].
• Cumanacoa, town of Caraccas, ii. [32].
• Cumanagoto Indians, ii. [14].
• Cumanches Indians, i. 71.
• Cunches Indians, ii. [288].
• Curaçoa Island, trade of with Caraccas, ii. [50].
• Curico, mine of Chili, ii. [251].
• ---- town of Chili, ii. [275].
• Curimayo, ancient gold mines of Peru, ii. [80].
• Curuguaty, town of La Plata, ii. [204].
• Cuzcatlan, or San Salvador, city of Guatimala, i. 162.
• Cuzco, intendency of Peru, ii. [140].
• ----, city of, scite, foundation, ii. [141].
• Ancient splendour, history, antiquities, buildings, cathedral, [142].
• Temple of the sun, public edifices, bishopric, population, trade, [143].
• D
• Darien, isthmus of, i. 232.
• ----, province of New Granada, extent, climate, inhabitants, i. 239.
• Rivers, produce, population, capital, 240.
• Scotch colonization of, 241.
• ----, gulf of, i. 240.
• Daule, district of New Granada, i. 313.
• Danta, large animal of Quito, i. 323.
• Degu, or Chilese dormouse, ii. [256].
• Desaguadero, singular river of La Plata, ii. [180].
• Descabezado, mountain of Chili, ii. [249].
• Doctrinas, or villages of Spanish America, ii. [34].
• Dominic de Gourges, attack of Florida by, i. 7.
• Don Josef Sarmiento Valladares Conde de Montezuma, a descendant of Montezuma, viceroy of Mexico, i. 31.
• Doraces, Indians, i. 178.
• Duida mountain of Guiana, i. 222.
• Durango, intendancy of. See New Biscay.
• Durango, city of New Spain, i. 93.
• E
• Earthquakes at Guatimala, i. 160.
• At Quito, 294.
• At Riobamba, 307.
• At Caraccas, ii. [6].
• At Cumana, [28].
• At Valencia in Caraccas, [56].
• At Lima, [118].
• At Arequipa, [148].
• In Chili, [250].
• El Altar, mountain, i. 301.
• El Corazon, mountain, i. 300.
• El Dorado, or Golden mountain, i. 222.
• El Dorado, celebrated fictitious city, ii. [17], [18]. 71.
• Elevation on the Cordillera of New Spain, at which sugar, cotton, cacao, and indigo, and European grains flourish, i. 36.
• Also pines and the banana, 37.
• Ekanfanoga, a swamp in Florida, i. 16.
• Encomiendas, history of, ii. [106].
• Equator crosses the great mountain Cayambe Urcu, i. 300.
• Eruptions of Cotopaxi volcano, i. 310.
• Escambia Coenecah, river of Florida, i. 14.
• Escuintla, district of Guatimala, i. 163.
• Espiritu Santo, or Nassau Bay in Florida, i. 19.
• Europeans, number of in New Spain, i. 47.
• In Spanish America, ii. [319].
• European fruits and vegetables successfully cultivated in New Spain, i. 38.
• Excessive cold experienced by the French mathematicians in measuring the degree on the Andes, i. 302.
• F
• Farallones, rocks, Pacific Ocean, i. 200.
• Falkland, or Malouin Isles, ii. [300].
• False Maranon, i. 326.
• Features of the country of New Spain, i. 35.
• Of New Granada, 219.
• Of Caraccas, ii 8.
• Of Peru, 81.
• Of La Plata, 161.
• Of Chili, 245.
• Fernandina, town of Florida, i. 19.
• Fernando, St., mission of Caraccas, ii. [34].
• First European colony planted in the West Indies, i. 3.
• On the continent of America, 179.
• Flames, innoxious, of the Plains of Caraccas, ii. [29].
• Floating gardens of Mexico, i. 130.
• Floridas, boundaries, i. 6.
• Discovery of, history, 7.
• Cession of to Spain, 8.
• Productions, 10.
• Animals, 11.
• Capital of East Florida, ib.
• Capital of West Florida, 14.
• Rivers and lakes, ib.
• Islands, 18.
• Government, 19.
• Recent events, 20.
• Florida, town of Chili, ii. [275].
• Force which originally undertook the conquest of Mexico, i. 22.
• Fort Bourbon, Spanish fort on the Paraguay, ii. [165].
• Fort Nueva Coimbra, Portuguese settlement on the Paraguay, ii. [165].
• Fort Maullin, Chili, ii. [286].
• Fortress of the Incas at Cuzco, ii. [142].
• Fresnillo, town of New Spain, i. 99.
• Frontier forts of Chili, ii. [280].
• Funza, or Bogota river, i. 266.
• G
• Gallo, Isle, Pacific Ocean, ii. [297].
• Ganges in India subject to the Bore, i. 332.
• Gardens, floating, of Mexico, i, 130.
• Garito de Paramo, highest point of the pass of Quindiu, i. 277.
• General History of the Indies by Las Casas, ii. [25].
• Genoese merchants, the first traffickers in negro slaves, ii. [23].
• Gibraltar, city of Caraccas, ii. [63].
• Gila river, ancient Mexican city on its banks, i. 75.
• Girval, voyage of, up the Maranon, ii. [151].
• Goahiros Indians, i. 259.
• Godin's, Madam, journey down the Maranon, i. 331.
• Gold, generally procured by washings in New Spain, i. 43.
• Quantity of procured annually in New Spain, ib.
• Of Antioquia, 271.
• Of Peru, ii. [80].
• Gold washings of Choco, i. 274.
• Golden Castile, ancient denomination of Darien, &c. i. 212.
• Gonzalo Pizarro, exploratory journey of, i. 290.
• Gorgona, isle in the Pacific, ii. [297].
• Gracias a Dios, town of Guatimala, i. 175.
• ---- —— —— Cape, named by Columbus, i. 210.
• Granada, New. See New Granada.
• ----, Town of Guatimala, i. 168.
• Grand Manamo, a mouth of the Orinoco, ii. [41].
• Grand Para, a name of the Maranon, i. 326.
• Grant made to Cortez of part of Oaxaca, i. 154.
• Guacas, or tumuli of the ancient Peruvians, ii. [105].
• Guacharo cavern and birds, ii. [37].
• Guadalaxara, audience of, i. 99.
• Intendancy of, ib.
• Boundaries, extent, ib.
• Population, productions, rivers, volcanoes, lakes, capital, and towns, 101.
• ----, city of New Spain, scite, fertility of the country, extent, inhabitants, climate, buildings, &c., i. 100.
• Guadelupe, Isle, Pacific, i. 200.
• Guadiano, or Durango river. See Durango.
• Guahibos Indians, ii. [68].
• Guallaga, river of Peru, ii. [127].
• Gualgayoc, mines of Peru, ii. [79].
• Guamanga, city of Peru, scite, climate, buildings, mines, foundation, population, ii. [138].
• ----, intendancy of Peru, ii. [138].
• Guamoco, town of New Granada, i. 251.
• Guana, or Edible Lizard, i. 234.
• Guanabana, i. 245.
• Guanacas mountain, i. 221.
• Pass of the, 276.
• Guanara, town of Caraccas, ii. [52].
• Guanahani, or Cat Island, first land discovered by Columbus, i. 2.
• Guanaxuato, intendancy of, i. 102.
• City of New Spain, ib.
• Mines produce twice us much as Potosi, 43.
• Guancavelica, intendancy of Peru, ii. [134].
• Mines of Peru, [135].
• City of Peru, scite, buildings, height, population, [136].
• Guanchaco, port of Truxillo, in Peru, ii. [124].
• Guanta, town of Peru, ii. [139].
• Guanuco, city and district of Peru, ii. [129].
• Guanucos, or Peruvian sheep, ii. [264].
• Guara, town of Peru, ii. [131].
• Guarania, territory of La Plata, ii. [228].
• Guarapiche, river of Caraccas, ii. [36]. 42.
• Guarico river, ii. [46].
• Guarisamey mines of New Spain, i. 95.
• Guarochiri, district and town of Peru, ii. [132].
• Guarounoes Indians, ii. [12].
• Guarpes Indians, ii. [215].
• Guasco, port of Chili, ii. [265].
• Guascualco isles, gulf of Mexico, i. 194.
• Guastays, ancient princes of Quito, i. 284.
• Guatavita lake, of New Granada, i. 266.
• Guatimala, captain-generalship of, captain-general, i. 158.
• Sub-divisions of, productions, climate, features, royal audience, 159.
• Capital, 160.
• ----, proper, provinces of, i. 161.
• ----, city of, scite, archbishopric, university, trade, foundation, earthquake, inhabitants, i. 160.
• Guatimozin, Emperor of Mexico, defends the capital against Cortez, is taken prisoner, and tortured, i. 29. 118.
• Guaxaca. See Oaxaca.
• Guayaquil, jurisdiction of New Granada, i. 310.
• ---- city, scite, foundation, buildings, streets, i. 314.
• Fortifications, population, 315.
• Trade, 318.
• ---- river, i. 313.
• Guayecas Indians, ii. [71].
• Guayna Patina, volcano of Peru, ii. [148].
• Guayqueria Indians, ii. [12]. 26.
• Guayra, river of Caraccas, ii. [46].
• ----, port of Caraccas, ii. [7].
• Guemul, singular Chilian animal, ii. [256].
• Guerra, voyage of, to explore the coast of Caraccas, ii. [19].
• Guiana, or Spanish Guiana, extent and boundaries, ii. [69].
• Population, divisions, [70].
• History, El Dorado, Guayecas, and sources of the Orinoco, [71].
• Rivers, capital, [72].
• Guiges, river of Caraccas, ii. [45].
• Guipuscoa company, ii. [48].
• Gulf stream, i. 184.
• H
• Hambato, town of New Granada, i. 307.
• Hatun Potocsi, mountain in which the mines of Potosi are worked, ii. [175].
• Havannah, captain-generalship of, i. 187.
• ---- city, scite, harbour, i. 188.
• Fortifications, dockyard, commerce, manners and customs of the inhabitants, 189.
• Attacks on, by different powers, and population, 190.
• ---- harbour, i. 188.
• Hayti, or Hispaniola, discovery of, i. 3.
• Hiaqui, district of New Spain, i. 89.
• River of New Spain, ib.
• Hispaniola, or St. Domingo, first settlement of Europeans in America, i. 3.
• History of Florida, i. 7.
• Of New Spain, 21.
• Of Mexico, 103.
• Of Caraccas, ii. [2].
• Of Peru and of Spanish America, [83]-114.
• Of the present disturbances in Spanish America, [108].
• Of Buenos Ayres, [156].
• Of Paraguay, [195].
• Of the Jesuit settlements in Paraguay, [220].
• Of Chili, [231].
• Honda, town of New Granada, i. 269.
• Honduras, province of, boundaries, extent, history, climate, i. 169.
• Productions, mahogany felling, and mahogany tree, 170.
• Logwood, mosquito, shore, Indians, 171.
• Chief town, &c., 175.
• ----, bay of, i. 173.
• ----, English factories of, Balize, i. 173.
• Honey and wax, immense quantities produced in New Spain, i. 40.
• Horses, wild, in New Spain, i. 40.
• Hostimuri, town of, New Spain, i. 92.
• Huailas, town and district of Peru, ii. [129].
• Huamalies, town and district of Peru, ii. [128].
• Huana Capac, 13th Inca of Peru, ii. [86].
• ---- Inca, conquest of Quito by, i. 284.
• Huantajaya, mines of Peru, ii. [80].
• Huascar, or Inti Cusi Hualpa, 14th Inca of Peru, ii. [86].
• ----, History of, i. 286.
• Huasacualco, river of New Spain, i. 149.
• Huexotzinco republic, i. 104.
• ----, town of New Spain, i. 143.
• Huilies, Peruvian gold works, ii. [80].
• Huilquilemu, province of Chili, ii. [279].
• Humboldt's journey to explore the Orinoco, ii. [71].
• Huncahua, king of the Muyscas, i. 218.
• I and J
• Jaen de Bracamoros, government of New Granada, i. 321.
• ----, city of New Granada, i. 321.
• Jalap takes its name from Xalapa, i 39.
• Jauru, river, and pyramid of La Plata, ii. [164].
• Jaguar, or American tiger, i. 242. ii. [35]. 217.
• Ibague, town of New Granada, i 280.
• Iberi, lake of La Plata, ii. [163].
• Ica, or Putumayo river, i. 327. 332.
• ----, town and district of Peru, ii. [133].
• Icononzo, natural bridges of, i. 265.
• Jesuits, discoveries of the, in California, i. 78.
• ----, history of their settlements in Paraguay, ii. [220].
• Illimani, mountain of La Plata, ii. [183].
• Illinissa mountain, i. 300.
• Imposible mountain, road over, ii. [30].
• Incas of Peru, ii. [84].
• Inca Roca, 6th Peruvian monarch, ii 85.
• ---- Ripac, 8th ditto, ii. [85].
• ---- Urca, 9th ditto, ii. [85].
• ---- Yupanqui, partially subdues the Chilese, ii. [232].
• Indians, independent, in New Spain, i. 49.
• ---- tribute levied in Mexico, i. 52.
• Method of catching wild geese, 243.
• Method of snaring the alligator, 318.
• ---- Chili, or Araucania, ii. [287].
• Indians, numbers of, in New Spain, i. 49.
• Description of, 50.
• ---- of Peru, ii. [105].
• Of Caraccas, ii. [12].
• Inscription on the tomb of Columbus, i. 211.
• ----, commemorative of the Geodesic operations in Quito, i. 297.
• Insular Chili, ii. [282].
• Intendancies, number of, in New Spain, i. 32.
• Joanes island, at the mouth of the Maranon, i. 329.
• Jorullo, volcano of, New Spain, i. 135.
• Ipava lake, source of the Orinoco, ii. [10].
• Ipire, river of Caraccas, ii. [41].
• Isabella, first town founded in the New World, i. 3.
• Isabella isle, Pacific, i. 201.
• Islands, on the coasts of Florida, i. 18.
• On the coasts of New Spain and Guatimala, 192.
• In the Gulf of California, 200.
• Revillagegido, 202.
• On the coasts of South America, ii. [294].
• Isthmus of Darien, or Panama, i. 232.
• Itaquiri, river of La Plata, ii. [165].
• Itata, province of Chili, ii 276.
• Itzcoatl, king of Mexico, i. 110.
• Itzli stone, i. 125.
• Juan Fernandez isle, ii. [294].
• ---- de Grijalva, discovery of Mexico by, i. 117.
• ---- de Ulua isle, gulf of Mexico, i. 193.
• ---- Rodriguez Cabrillo isle, Pacific, i. 200.
• Juanico isle, Pacific Ocean, i. 201.
• Juruay river, ii. [194].
• Jutay river, ii. [195].
• Iztaccihuatl, mountain of New Spain, i. 141.
• L
• La Guayra, port of, Caraccas, scite, distance from Caraccas, fortifications, ii. [7].
• Harbour, population, commerce, 8.
• La Paz, province of La Plata, ii. [182].
• ----, or Chuquiavo, city of La Plata, foundation, scite, ii. [182].
• Climate, buildings, trade, population, 183.
• La Plata, viceroyalty of. See Buenos Ayres.
• ----, town of New Granada, i. 281.
• ---- isle, in the Pacific, ii. [297].
• La Purissima Concepcion de Catorce mine, profits of, i. 44.
• ---- Serena, or Coquimbo, city of Chili, ii. [266].
• ---- de Tierra isle, in the Pacific, ii. [295].
• Lake Ipava, source of the Orinoco, ii. [10].
• ---- Putucuao, ii. [40].
• ---- Chucuito, or Titicaca, ii. [168]. 185.
• ---- Maracaybo, ii. [15].
• ---- Parima ii. [17].
• ---- Parina Cocha, ii. [140].
• ---- Valencia, ii. [16].
• ---- Xarayes, ii. [162].
• ---- Guatavita, i. 266.
• ---- George, i. 17.
• ---- Tezcuco, i. 129.
• ---- Chalco, i. 130.
• ---- St. Cristoval, i. 130.
• ---- Zumpango, i. 130.
• ---- Cayman, i. 46. 94.
• ---- Parras, i. 94.
• ---- Chapala, i. 46. 100.
• Lakes of New Spain, i. 46.
• ---- of Caraccas, ii. [15].
• Lambayeque, town of Peru, ii. [123].
• Lampa, district of Peru, ii. [146].
• ----, city of La Plata or Peru, ii. [190].
• Land of the missions, or Colonna, ii. [154].
• Land-crabs, natural history of, i. 181.
• Language of the Indians of Caraccas, ii. [13]. Of Peru, [154].
• Of Chili, [253].
• Lanthorns of Maracaybo lake, ii. [16].
• Laqui, singular method of catching animals with, ii. [254].
• Laricaxas, district and town of La Plata, ii. [184].
• Las Casas, Bishop of Chiapa, styled Protector of the Indians, history of, ii. [21].
• Las Corientes, city of La Plata, ii. [227].
• Latacunga, district and city of New Granada, i. 305.
• Lauricocha, or False Maranon, i. 326. ii. [128].
• ---- mines of Peru, ii. [79].
• Lautaro, toqui of the Chilese, ii. [239].
• Lemui, isle of the Archipelago of Chiloe, ii. [287].
• Leon, city of Guatimala, i. 167.
• ----, New, province of New Spain, i. 97.
• Lerma, river of New Spain, i. 134.
• Lianas, beautiful parasitical plants, ii. [33].
• Lican, ancient name of Quito, i. 284.
• Lima, intendancy of Peru, districts of, boundaries, history, chief town, and towns, ii. [130], [131].
• ----, scite, foundation, ii. [114].
• Public edifices, universities, viceroys, [115].
• Courts of justice, palace, mint, suburbs, pomp of the church ceremonies, manners and customs of the inhabitants, population, climate, [116].
• Earthquake, commerce, port, river, [118].
• Linares, town of New Spain, i. 98.
• Lincopichion, toqui of the Chilese, ii. [242].
• Lincoyan, ditto ditto, ii. [237].
• Lipes, district and town of La Plata, ii. [178].
• Llachi, isle of the Archipelago of Chiloe, ii. [287].
• Llamas, or Peruvian sheep, ii. [255].
• Llano del Corazon, plain of Popayan, i. 281.
• Lloque Yupanqui, 3d Inca of Peru, ii. [85].
• Llulia and Chiloas, district of Peru, i. 126.
• Lobos isles, Pacific, ii. [297].
• ----, isle of the Rio de la Plata, ii. [300].
• Logwood trees, i. 171.
• Longavi, mountain of Chili, ii. [249].
• Londres, town of La Plata, ii. [213].
• Lora, town of Chili, ii. [275].
• Loretto, mission of, California, i. 78.
• Los Charcas. See Charcas.
• Los Llanos, or the Plains of Caraccas, ii. [9].
• Los Llanitos, mountains of New Spain, i. 102.
• Los Paredones, ruins of an ancient Peruvian palace, i. 309.
• Los Santos, town of New Granada, i. 239.
• Lucanas, district of Peru, ii. [140].
• M
• Macanao, Cape, Margarita isle, ii. [298].
• Macareo, a mouth of the Orinoco, ii. [41].
• Macas, town and province of New Granada, i. 335.
• Maccabaw snuff, origin of the name, ii. [64].
• Madera river, i. 328. ii. [194].
• Magalhaens, discovery of the passage into the South Pacific by, ii. [292].
• Magdalena, Rio Grande de, i. 246. 254.
• Magnificent gift sent to Cortez by Montezuma, i. 23.
• Maguey, or Agave, i. 39. 84.
• Mahogany trees, i. 171.
• Maita Capac, 4th Inca of Peru, ii. [85].
• Maize, plantations of, support the Indians in New Spain, i. 37.
• Sugar made from its stalks by the Mexicans, 38.
• Maldonado, city of La Plata, ii. [227].
• Malpays, i. 136.
• Mama Oello, ii. [84].
• Mameis, i. 245.
• Mamore river, ii. [194].
• Manati, or sea cow, i. 333.
• Mançanillo, or poison apple, i. 242.
• Manco Capac, 1st Sovereign of Peru, ii. [84].
• ---- ——, 16th Inca of Peru, ii. [86]. 97.
• Mandiha, lake of La Plata, ii. [163].
• Manflos, mountain of Chili, ii. [249].
• Manioc, cultivation of, in New Spain, i. 37.
• Manoa, or El Dorado, pretended city of Guiana, ii. [71].
• Manta, flat fish, destructive to pearl divers, i. 235.
• ---- blancas, offensive little insects, i. 244.
• Manzanares, river of Caraccas, ii. [42].
• Mapimis, Fort de, in New Spain, i. 94.
• Maracay, town of Caraccas, ii. [54].
• Maracaybo, province of Caraccas, boundaries, soil, population, Indian towns on the lake, ii. [58].
• History, rivers, [59].
• Climate, capital, [60].
• Towns, [63].
• ----, city of Caraccas, scite, climate, buildings, ii. [60].
• Foundation, population, slaves, ship-building, manners and customs of the inhabitants, [61].
• History of the plunder of by the bucaniers, [62].
• ---- lake, ii. [15].
• Maranon river, description of, i. 325.
• Margarita island, Caribbean sea, situation, discovery, ii. [73].
• Ports, population, commerce, climate, soil, capital, recent events, [74].
• ---- island, Pacific Ocean, i. 200.
• Maria de Escobar, sows the first wheat in Peru, ii. [131].
• Marias, Las Tres, isles, Pacific Ocean, i. 201.
• Mariguitar, village of Caraccas, ii. [40].
• Mariquita, town of New Granada, i. 269.
• Maruisas, a mouth of the Orinoco, ii. [41].
• Marquess del Valle de Oaxaca, title granted to Cortez, i. 30.
• Mas-afuera isle, Pacific Ocean, ii. [295].
• Mataguayos Indians, ii. [211].
• Matte, or Paraguay tea, ii. [200].
• Maule, district of Chili, ii. [274].
• Mausolea of Chachapoyas in Peru, ii. [104].
• Maynas, province of New Granada, i. 324.
• Mayo, district and river of New Spain, i. 89.
• Maypure cataract, i. 221.
• Mayros Indians, ii. [154].
• Measurement of a degree of the meridian in Quito, i. 297.
• Mechoacan. See Valladolid.
• Medellin, birth-place of Cortez, i. 21.
• Melipilla, city and province of Chili, ii. [270].
• Menchuan isle, Pacific, ii. [287].
• Mendoza, city of La Plata, ii. [218].
• Mentuosa, isle, Pacific, i. 203.
• Mercaderes, town of Popayan, limit of Peruvian conquests, i. 281.
• Mercury of Antioquia, i. 272.
• ----, quantity used in the Mexican mines, i. 44.
• Merida, province of New Spain. See Yucatan.
• ----, city of New Spain, i. 158.
• ----, province of New Granada, i. 261.
• ----, city of New Granada, i. 262.
• Mestizoes of New Spain, i. 47.
• Meta river, ii. [67].
• Method of travelling over the passes of Popayan, i. 277.
• The plains of La Plata, ii. [209]. 222.
• ---- of carrying the post letters in Quito, i. 323.
• Mexicana river, i. 5.
• Mexico, viceroyalty of. See New Spain.
• ----, intendancy of, boundaries, ancient and modern history of, i. 103.
• Climate, produce, animals, 122.
• Minerals, 125.
• Ancient inhabitants, 126.
• Features, 129.
• Antiquities, 132.
• Towns, 133.
• ----, New, province of, extent, boundaries, features, i. 68.
• Climate, capital, towns, 69.
• Mines, population, rivers, 70.
• Indians, 71.
• Antiquities, 75.
• ----, city of, attack and capture of by Cortez, i. 29.
• Description of, scite, architecture of the public edifices, &c., i. 57.
• Population, 58.
• Market-place, aqueducts, police, municipal body, courts of justice, 59.
• Viceroy's court and splendour, 60.
• Troops, archbishopric, clergy, ecclesiastical courts, university, 61.
• Colleges, patron saint, character of the people, 62.
• Manners and customs, 63. Scenery in the vicinity, 64.
• Public walks, climate, 65.
• Antiquities, lakes, 66.
• Lazaroni, 67.
• Mexicans, ancient, i. 119. Modern, 125.
• Mexitli, the Mexican god of war, i. 57.
• Michuacan kingdom, i. 104.
• Micuipampa, mines of, Peru, ii. [79].
• Town of, Peru, [125].
• Mimbrenos Apaches Indians, i. 73.
• Minas, basin of, in Nova Scotia, subject to the bore, i 332.
• Mineral pitch of Maracaybo, ii. [16].
• Mines of New Spain, many abandoned for want of proper machinery, number of, i. 42.
• The most valuable of, 43.
• ---- of New Granada, i. 214.
• ---- of Peru, produce of, ii. [78].
• Description of, ii. [79].
• ---- of talc in La Plata, ii. [184].
• ---- of La Plata, produce of, ii. [167].
• ---- of Potosi, ii. [174].
• ---- del Azogue, in La Plata, ii. [187].
• ---- of Salcedo, in La Plata, ii. [188].
• ---- of Chili, ii. [251].
• Mint of Mexico, quantity of coinage issued from since the conquest, i. 53.
• ---- of Santa Fé de Bogota, coinage of, i. 228.
• ---- of Popayan, coinage of, i. 228.
• Miraculous fountain in Florida, i. 9.
• Mission villages of Paraguay, ii. [203].
• Missionary town, description of one, ii. [34].
• ---- war with the Indians, i. 48.
• Missions of California, i. 78-82.
• Misteriosa island, i. 198.
• Mita, a law obliging the Indians to work in the mines, ii. [107].
• Mitla, temple of the ancient Mexicans, i. 154.
• Mixteca, country of New Spain, i. 154.
• Mizque Pocona, town and district of La Plata, ii. [192].
• Mocha isle, Pacific Ocean, ii. [282].
• Mompox, town of New Granada, i. 250.
• Monclova, town of New Spain, i. 97.
• Mondego, river of La Plata, ii. [165].
• Monkeys of Panama, eaten by the natives, i. 232.
• Montana Reale, country of Peru, ii. [153].
• Monte Capiro, mountain of Porto Bello, i. 236.
• Monteleone, Duke of, a descendant of Cortez, i. 48.
• Monterey, town of California, i. 82.
• Bay of ditto, 85.
• ----, town of New Spain, i. 97.
• Monteses Indians, ii. [203].
• Montes Claros, town of New Spain, i. 92.
• Monte Video, city of La Plata, scite, name, ii. [225].
• Harbour, buildings, climate, vicinity, population, commerce, [226].
• Taking of, by the British, [227].
• Montezuma Ilhuicamina, Emperor of Mexico, i. 111.
• Montezuma Xocotzin, Emperor of Mexico, magnificent reception of Cortez by, i. 25.
• Made prisoner, 27.
• Slain, 28.
• History of, 114.
• Moquehua, district and town of Peru, ii. [149].
• Moqui Indians, i. 71.
• Moquihuix, King of Tlatelolco, i. 111.
• Morgan the freebooter, sack of Panama by, i. 233.
• Taking of Porto Bello by, 238.
• Plunder of Maracaybo by, ii. [62].
• Moro Castle, i. 189.
• Morrope, town of Peru, ii. [123].
• Mosquito shore, i. 171.
• ---- Indians, i. 172.
• Mountains near the river Magdalena, curious structure of, i. 225.
• Mouths of the Orinoco, ii. [11]. 41.
• Moyobamba, town of Peru, ii. [126].
• Moxos, territory of La Plata, ii. [194].
• Mugillon Isle, in the Pacific, ii. [282].
• Mulattoes of New Spain, i. 47.
• Musky smell and white colour of the rivers frequented by alligators, i. 318.
• Muyscas or Moscas Indians, ancient tribe of New Granada, i. 217. 227.
• Muzo, town of New Granada, i. 270.
• Muzos, singular Indian nation, i. 270.
• N
• Nacogdoch, Fort of Texas, in New Spain, i. 98.
• Narvaez, defeat of, by Cortez, i. 28.
• Napo river, i. 332.
• Naptha, spring of, in Caraccas, ii. [31].
• Nasca, town of Peru, ii. [134].
• Nata, city of New Granada, i. 238.
• Nauhcampatepetl, mountain of New Spain, i. 150.
• Neembucu, lake of La Plata, ii. [163].
• ----, town of La Plata, ii. [204].
• Negroes in New Spain, i. 48.
• ---- in New Granada, i. 272.
• Nevada de Toluca mountains, i. 129.
• ---- de Santa Marta, i. 220.
• ---- de Merida mountains, i. 220.
• Neveri, or Enipiricuar, river of Caraccas, ii. [42].
• New Albion, explored and named by Sir Francis Drake, i. 77.
• New Andalusia, province of, boundaries, history, ii. [18].
• Features, climate, capital, [25].
• New Barcelona, province of, ii. [18].
• New Biscay, or Durango, intendancy of, boundaries, extent, i. 92.
• Population, capital, 93.
• Inhabitants, towns, &c., 94.
• New Caledonia, i. 241.
• New California. See California.
• New Granada, viceroyalty of, boundaries and extent, i. 209.
• Territorial and political and divisions, discovery and history, 210.
• Audiences, viceroy, population, 214.
• Archbishopric, commerce, revenues, 215.
• Mines, produce, Indians, 216.
• Ancient inhabitants, 217.
• Climate, 218.
• Features of, 219.
• Capital, 225.
• Provinces of, 229.
• New Leon, province of New Spain, boundaries, extent, and capital, i. 97.
• New Mexico, province of. See Mexico.
• New Santander, province of New Spain, boundaries, extent and description of, i. 97.
• Mines, capital, towns and rivers, i. 98.
• New Santander, city of New Spain, i. 98.
• New Spain, viceroyalty of, government history, and discovery, i. 20.
• Political and territorial divisions, 32.
• Boundaries, 33.
• Extent and climate, 34.
• Features, productions and mines, 35.
• Rivers, 45.
• Lakes, 46.
• Temperature, 47.
• Population, 21. 47.
• Antiquities and manufactures, 52.
• Commerce, 53.
• Revenues, 55.
• Army, 56.
• Recent events, 56.
• Metropolis, 57.
• Provinces of, 68.
• Neyva, town of New Granada, i. 281.
• Nicaragua, province of Guatimala, boundaries, climate, features, i. 166.
• Productions, trade, mines, population, animals, capital, i. 167.
• ----, town of Guatimala, i. 168.
• Nicoya, town of Guatimala, i. 176.
• Nicuessa, voyage of, i. 212.
• Nirgua, town of Caraccas, ii. [58].
• Noanamas, village of New Granada, i. 274.
• Nobles of New Spain, i. 32.
• Norte, Rio Grande del, i. 45. 98.
• Nuestra Senora de la Vittoria. See Tabasco.
• O
• Oaxaca or Guaxaca, intendancy of, boundaries, i. 151.
• Mines, inhabitants, manufactures, capital and towns, 152.
• Mountains, antiquities, rivers, grant to Cortez, 154.
• Oaxaca, city of New Spain, scite, vicinity, climate, i. 152.
• Public buildings and population, 152.
• Obelisks in Cuyo, ii. [218].
• Ocana, town of New Granada, i. 259.
• Ocona, town of Peru, ii. [148].
• Ocumara, town of Caraccas, ii. [56].
• Olives, cultivation of, forbidden in New Spain, i. 38.
• Ojeda, voyages and discoveries of, i. 211.
• Omaguas Indians, i. 324.
• Omasuyos, district of La Plata, ii. [183].
• Omoa, town of Guatimala, i. 175.
• Orchilla island, Caribbean Sea, ii. [298].
• Orellana, discovery of the Maranon by, i. 291.
• Origin of the slave trade, ii. [22].
• Orinoco river, ii. [10]. 41.
• Oro, platina mine in New Granada, i. 274.
• Oropesa, city of La Plata, ii. [181].
• Orizaba, volcano of New Spain, i. 150.
• ----, town of New Spain, i. 147.
• Oruro, district of La Plata, ii. [178].
• ----, city of La Plata, ii. [179].
• Ostimuri, district of New Spain, i. 89.
• Ostrich of America, ii. [259].
• Otabalo, jurisdiction of New Granada, i. 303.
• ----, city of New Granada, i. 304.
• Otomacs Indians, ii. [15].
• Ovando refuses Columbus leave to refit his ship at Hispaniola, i. 210.
• P
• Pacajes, district and town of La Plata, ii. [184].
• Pachachaca, river of Peru, ii. [146].
• Pachacamac, a deity of the Peruvians, ii. [105].
• Temple of, in Peru, [103].
• ----, isle in the Pacific, ii. [296].
• Pachacutec, 10th Inca of Peru, ii. [85].
• Pachitea, river, ii. [127].
• Pachuca, town of New Spain, i. 134.
• Pachuquilla, the most ancient village of the vale of Anahuac, i. 134.
• Pacific Ocean, discovered by Vasco Nuñez de Balboa, i. 213.
• Pagi, or Puma, of Chili, ii. [256].
• Pajaro, Chilian island, ii. [282].
• Paillamachu, toqui of the Chilese, ii. [241].
• Paintings, Mexican, i. 52. 123.
• Pampas of Buenos Ayres, ii. [222].
• Pampas del Sacramento, ii. [151].
• Pampatar, in Margarita, recent events at, ii. [74].
• Pamplona, city of New Granada, i. 263.
• Panama, province of, i. 229.
• Boundaries, discovery, climate, soil, forests, mountains, trade, produce, 230.
• Mines, rivers, animals, capital, 232.
• Bay, pearl fishery, and cities, 235.
• ----, city of New Granada, scite, i. 232.
• History, government, public offices and buildings, inhabitants, bay, tides, 234.
• Panos Indians, ii. [152].
• Panuco, river of New Spain, i. 134. 149.
• Papantla, pyramids of, i. 151.
• Papaws, i. 244.
• Paragoana, peninsula of, in Caraccas, ii. [50].
• Paraguay, government of, boundaries, extent, history, discovery, &c., ii. [195].
• Climate, and productions, features, &c., [199].
• Animals, [201].
• Rivers, commerce, [202].
• Missions, capital, and towns, [203].
• Paraguay river, small declension of, ii. [161].
• Description of, [164].
• Paramo de Guanacas, pass of, i. 265. 276.
• ---- de la Summa Paz mountain, i. 265.
• ---- del Assuay, road over the, i. 308.
• Parana river, ii. [166]. 224.
• Paria, district and city of La Plata, ii. [179].
• Paria, province of Caraccas, ii. [18].
• Pariagoto Indians, ii. [13].
• Parima lake, ii. [17].
• Parina Cocha lake, ii. [140].
• Parina Cocha, district of Peru, ii. [140].
• Parral, town of New Spain, i. 95.
• Pasco, town of Peru, ii. [130].
• Pasco mines, in Peru, ii. [79].
• Pascuaro, town of New Spain, i. 137.
• Pasquaro, town of New Spain, i. 94.
• Pass of Guanacas, i. 276.
• Passo del Norte, fort of New Spain, i. 69.
• Pasto, town of New Granada, i. 281.
• Patagonians, ii. [229].
• Pataz, gold works of Peru, ii. [80].
• Pataz, district of Peru, ii. [126].
• Paucarcolla, district and town of La Plata, ii. [187].
• Paucartambo, district of Peru, ii. [144].
• ---- river, i. 326. ii. [144].
• Paullu, Inca, gives Pizarro battle, ii. [95].
• Pausa, town of Peru, ii. [140].
• Paynenauca, toqui of the Chilese, ii. [240].
• Payta, town of Peru, ii. [122].
• Pearl fishery of Panama, i. 230.
• Pedro Arias de Avila, governor of Terra Firma, i. 213.
• Pedro de la Gasca, third governor of Peru, ii. [100].
• Pehuenches Indians, ii. [288].
• Pendulous bridges in South America, i. 224.
• Pensacola, city of Florida, i. 13.
• Perdido bay and river, boundary of the United States and
• Florida, i. 7. 16.
• Perote, plain of, i. 144.
• Peru, viceroyalty of, boundaries and extent, ii. [75].
• Political and territorial divisions, population and government, [76].
• Commerce, [77].
• Produce of the mines, [78].
• Mines, [79].
• Climate, features, &c., [81].
• History, discovery, &c., [83].
• Ancient Peruvians, [103].
• Antiquities, [104].
• Modern Peruvians, [105].
• Recent events in, [108].
• Capital, [114].
• Provinces of, [120].
• Peruvians, ancient, ii. [103].
• Peruvians, modern, ii. [105].
• Peruvian sheep, ii. [255].
• Peteroa, volcano of Chili, ii. [249]. 274.
• Petorca, city of Chili, ii. [269].
• Pichinca volcano, i. 298.
• Pico de Orizaba volcano, i. 35. 150.
• Pico de Tancitaro mountain, i. 135.
• Piedra Blanca, Pacific, i. 201.
• Pihuen, or Chilese pine tree, ii. [247].
• Pilaya y Paspaya, province of La Plata, ii. [179].
• Pilcomayo river, ii. [166]. 173.
• Pillan, name of the Deity in ancient Chili, ii. [233].
• Pimeria, province of New Spain, boundaries, climate, inhabitants, i. 86.
• Rivers, 87.
• Forts, 88.
• Pinos isle, Cuba, i. 192.
• Pique, insect, i. 244.
• Piritoo isles, ii. [300].
• Piros Indians, ii. [152].
• Pisco, town of Peru, ii. [133].
• Piura, district of, and oldest town in Peru, ii. [120].
• Pizarro, history of the conquest of Peru by, ii. [86].
• Pizarro Gonzalo assumes the government of Peru, ii. [99].
• ---- —— exploratory journey of, to the false Maranon, i. 290.
• Plain of the Maranon, i. 223.
• Plains of Barcelona, ii. [32].
• Platina of Choco, i. 274.
• Poitos, slaves of the mission Indians, ii. [15].
• Pomabamba, province and town of La Plata, ii. [182].
• Pongo de Manseriche, or crevice of the false Maranon, i. 322. 333.
• Ponce de Leon explores Florida, i. 9.
• Popayan, government of New Granada, i. 275.
• ----, city of New Granada, scite, environs, rivers, i. 279.
• Volcanoes, buildings, population, 280.
• Popo, silver mines of La Plata, ii. [178].
• Popocatepetl volcano, i. 35. 141.
• Population of New Spain, i. 47.
• Of Mexico, 58.
• Of Puerto Rico, 182.
• Of Cuba, 187.
• Of New Granada, 214.
• Of Caraccas, ii. [2].
• Of Peru, [76].
• Of Spanish America, [108]. 318.
• Of La Plata, [156].
• Of Chili, [253].
• Porco, city of La Plata, ii. [177].
• ----, mountains of La Plata, ii. [177].
• Porcupine, American, ii. [257].
• Pore, city of New Granada, i. 264.
• Porrudos, river of La Plata, ii. [165].
• Port Sir Francis Drake, i. 4. 76. 77.
• Port San Francisco, i. 4. 77.
• Porto Bello, city of New Granada, scite, foundation, i. 235.
• Fortifications, harbour, climate, [236].
• Inhabitants, commerce, [237].
• Edifices, &c., [238].
• Porto Cavello, city of Caraccas, scite, history, ii. [50].
• Buildings, population, trade, [51].
• Climate, &c., [52].
• Portuguesa, river of Caraccas, ii. [6]. 66.
• Potatoe, not indigenous to Mexico, only found in South America at the conquest, i. 38.
• Poto mines of La Plata, ii. [189].
• Pototaca lead mines of La Plata, ii. [179].
• Potosi, mines of, ii. [174].
• Potosi, city of La Plata, scite, climate, environs, mines, ii. [174].
• Foundation, mint, population, buildings, ii. [175].
• Precipice of the Silla de Caraccas, ii. [8].
• Price of provisions in Choco, i. 273.
• ---- given for European animals in the early times of the Spanish colonies of Peru, ii. [131].
• Produce of the mines in the New World, not so great as has been imagined, i. 42.
• Actual amount of, ii. [320].
• Pron, bundle of threads used to record events in Chili, ii. [233].
• Protector of the Indians, title of Las Casas, ii. [22].
• Pucara, remarkable ruins in La Plata, ii. [190].
• Puchacay, province of Chili, ii. [277].
• Puda, or wild goat of Chili, ii. [256].
• Puebla, La, province of New Spain, boundaries, extent, i. 138.
• Produce, history, climate, and ancient capital, i. 139.
• Present capital, 140.
• Mountains and antiquities, 141.
• Towns, 142.
• Rivers, 143.
• ---- de los Angelos, city of New Spain, situation, cathedral, buildings, bishopric, trade, environs, population, height, i. 140.
• ---- Nueva, city of New Granada, i. 179.
• Puelches Indians, ii. [288].
• Puerto Rico island, situation, extent, history, i. 180.
• Land-crabs, produce, 181.
• Population, capital, 182.
• ---- ——, city of, i. 182.
• ---- Viejo, district of New Granada, i. 311.
• Pulque, strong liquor made from the agave, i. 39.
• Puma, or American Lion, ii. [256].
• Puna, city of La Plata, ii. [188].
• ---- island, i. 312.
• Punta de la Galera, so called on account of Columbus' ship touching at it, ii. [27].
• ---- de Santa Elena, district of New Granada, i. 312.
• Purace, volcano, i. 280.
• ----, village of Popayan, i. 281.
• Purissima Concepcion de Catorce, mines of New Spain, profit of, i. 44.
• Puros river, ii. [194].
• Puruays, ancient inhabitants of Quito, i. 284.
• Pusambio, or Vinegar River, i. 281.
• Putacuao, lake of Caraccas, i. 40.
• Pyramid erected on the banks of the Paraguay, as a boundary mark between Spanish and Portuguese America, ii. [164].
• Q
• Quaquas Indians, ii. [14].
• Quebrada, or crevice of Tipe, i. 254.
• Quelendama mountain, i. 299.
• Quelenes, Indian country of Guatimala, i. 164.
• Quesaltenango, district of Guatimala, i. 163.
• Queretaro, city of New Spain, i. 133.
• Quesada, Gonzalo Ximenes de, conquest of New Granada by, i. 214. 267.
• Quetlavaca, or Cuitlahuatzin King of Mexico, i. 117.
• Quiabaslan, i. 24.
• Quibo, or Caybo isle, i. 204.
• Quicaras isles, Pacific, i. 203.
• Quichuan, language of Peru, ii. [154].
• Quillota, province and city of Chili, ii. [267].
• Quinchuan, isle of Chiloe, ii. [287].
• Quindiu mountain, i. 221. 276. Pass of, 277.
• Quiriquina, Isle of Chili, ii. [282].
• Quispicanchi, district of Peru, ii. [143].
• Quito, presidency of New Granada, boundaries, i. 283.
• Extent, districts, history, 284.
• Capital, 293.
• Features and mountains, 297.
• Provinces, 303.
• ----, city of, foundation, scite, vicinity, i. 293.
• Climate, earthquakes, population, 294.
• Manners and customs of the inhabitants, public buildings, i. 295.
• Trade, height, 296.
• Rivers, 297.
• ----, jurisdiction of New Granada, i. 305.
• Quixos y Macas, government of New Granada, i. 334.
• R
• Raleigh, Sir Walter, voyage of, to Guiana, ii. [71].
• Ramirez, isle in Lake Tamiagua, i. 193.
• Rancagua, province and city of Chili, ii. [272].
• Ransom, immense, given by Atabalipa, ii. [93].
• Rapel, village and cavern in Chili, ii. [274].
• Raspadura canal, unites the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans, i. 273.
• Region of perpetual snow in Mexico, i. 47.
• Real de los Alamos, town of New Spain, i. 92.
• Realejo, town and port of Guatimala, i. 167.
• Religion of New Spain, i. 48.
• Of ancient Mexicans, i. 126.
• Of the Muyscas, 218. 227.
• Of the ancient Peruvians, ii. [104].
• Of the wandering tribes on the banks of the Maranon, [153].
• Of the ancient Chilese, [233].
• Repartimientos, history of, ii. [106].
• Revenue of New Spain, i. 55.
• Of New Granada, 215.
• Of Peru, ii. [76].
• Of Spanish America, [320].
• Revillagigedo isle, i. 202.
• Riobamba, district of New Granada, i. 306.
• ---- city of New Granada, i. 307.
• Rio Bravo del Norte, i. 45. 70.
• ---- Colorado, New Spain, i. 45.
• ---- Conchos, or de Salinas, New Spain, i. 94.
• ---- de la Hacha, district and town of New Granada, i. 259.
• ---- de la Plata, discovery of, ii. [156].
• Description, [164].
• ---- Grande de la Magdalena. See Magdalena.
• ---- Negro, i. 327. 332. ii. [72].
• ---- Santiago, or Rio Lerma, New Spain, i. 100.
• ---- Vermelho, or Vermejo, ii. [166].
• ---- Verde, New Spain, i. 155.
• Riochico, town of New Spain, i. 90.
• Rioxa, city of La Plata, ii. [213].
• Rivers of Florida, i. 14.
• Of New Spain, 45.
• Of Caraccas, ii. [10].
• Of La Plata, ii. [164].
• Of Chili, [250].
• Road of the Mexican plain, great length of, i. 35.
• From Cumanacoa, highly picturesque, ii. [33].
• From Buenos Ayres to Potosi, [209].
• Roads of New Spain, i. 41.
• Over the Andes, in Chili, ii. [248].
• Roca Partida isle, i. 202.
• Roderic de Triana first sees the American land, i. 2.
• Roebuck isle, Florida, i. 19.
• Roguagualo lake of La Plata, ii. [194].
• Roncador isle, i. 199.
• Rosario, mine of, New Spain, i. 92.
• Ruatan isle, i. 198.
• Ruminagui usurps the sceptre of Quito, i. 288.
• Ruminavi mountain, i. 299. 300.
• S
• Sacrifices of the Muyscas, i. 218. 227.
• ----, island of, i. 193.
• Salado, river of La Plata, ii. [207].
• Salamanca, town of New Spain, i. 102.
• Salis, discovery of the Rio de la Plata by, ii. [156]. 164.
• Salt plains and lakes of La Plata, ii. [208].
• ---- works of Araya, in Caraccas, ii. [30].
• Salta, city of La Plata, ii. [214].
• Saltillo, town of New Spain, i. 94.
• Sana, town and district of Peru, ii. [123].
• San Antonio, town of Caraccas, ii. [69].
• ---- —— de Bejar, fort of Texas, i. 98.
• ---- —— de los Cues, ancient fort, i. 153.
• San Bartolomeo de Chillan, town of Chili, ii. [277].
• ---- Benedito isle, Pacific, i. 202.
• ---- Benito isle, Pacific, i. 200.
• ---- Bernardo de Tarija, town of La Plata, ii. [177].
• ---- ——, bay in the gulf of Mexico, i. 199.
• ---- Blas, port of New Spain, i. 101.
• ---- Buenaventura mission, California, i. 83.
• ---- Carlos, town of Caraccas, ii. [56].
• ---- ——, fort of Guiana, ii. [70].
• ---- ——, town of Chiloe, ii. [286].
• San Christoval de Acochala, silver mine, ii. [178].
• ---- ——, lake of Mexico, i. 130.
• San Felipe, city of Chili, i. 270.
• ---- ——, town of Caraccas, ii. [57].
• ---- —— y San Jago, town of New Spain, i. 92.
• San Fernando de Apure, town of Caraccas, ii. [68].
• ---- ——, town of Chili, ii. [273].
• San Francisco, mission of California, i. 82.
• ---- Jayme, town of Caraccas, ii. [68].
• ---- Joachin de Omaguas, Spanish fort on the Maranon, ii. [151].
• ---- Josef, town of Florida, i. 14.
• ---- Jose, mission of California, i. 82.
• ---- Juan de la Frontera, city of La Plata, ii. [219].
• ---- —— de los Llanos, province and town of New Granada, i. 263.
• ---- —— del Pao, town of Caraccas, ii. [57].
• ---- —— del Rio, town of New Biscay, i. 94.
• City of Mexico, 133.
• ---- ——, river of Florida, i. 15.
• Town of Nicaragua, 168.
• River of Nicaragua, importance of, 169.
• San Lazaro, fort of Carthagena, i. 247.
• ---- Luis de Cura, town of Caraccas, ii. [57].
• ---- —— de Gonzaga, city of Chili, ii. [280].
• ---- ——, island in the bay of San Bernardo, i. 193.
• ---- —— de Loyola, city of La Plata ii. [219].
• ---- —— Potosi, intendancy of New Spain, boundaries, extent, population, climate, i. 95.
• Mines, capital, 96.
• ---- —— ——, city of New Spain, i. 96.
• San Martin isle, Pacific, i. 200.
• ---- Miguel, town and district of Guatimala, i. 162.
• ---- —— de Ibarra, city and province of New Granada, i. 303.
• ---- Nicolas, isle in the Pacific, i. 200.
• ---- Pablo de Omaguas, Portuguese fort on the Maranon, ii. [151].
• ---- Pedro, town of Caraccas, ii. [64].
• Town of Peru, 123.
• ---- Salvador isle, Pacific, i. 200.
• ---- ——, town and district of Guatimala, i. 162.
• ---- Sebastian, colony founded by Ojeda, i. 212.
• ---- Sebastian de Buenavista, town of New Granada, i. 250.
• ---- —— de los Reyes, town of Caraccas, ii. [57].
• Santa Ana, mission of California, i. 84.
• ---- Barbara, mission of California, i. 82.
• Santa Catalina, or Providence Isle, i. 199.
• ---- Cruz, mission of California, i. 82.
• ---- —— isle, Pacific, discovered by Cortez, i. 201.
• ---- ——, town of Cuba, i. 192.
• ---- ——, village of New Mexico, i. 69.
• ---- —— de la Sierra, province and town of La Plata, ii. [192].
• Santa Fé, province of New Granada, i. 264.
• ---- —— de Bogota, capital of New Granada, scite, foundation, buildings, height, population, i. 225.
• Climate, viceroy, archbishopric, environs, 226.
• Mint, 228.
• ---- ——, city of New Spain, i. 69.
• ---- ——, city of Paraguay, ii. [227].
• ---- ——, aqueduct of Mexico, i. 66.
• ---- —— de Antioquia. See Antioquia.
• Santa Maria, name of the ship in which Columbus sailed, i. 2.
• ---- —— el Antigua del Darien, colony founded by Balboa, i. 212.
• First settlement in Spanish North America, 240.
• Santa Maria, or Talca, isle of Chili, ii. [282].
• Santa Marta, province of New Granada, boundaries, discovery, history, i. 252.
• Climate, productions, features of, 253.
• Rivers, 254.
• Cacao plant, 257.
• Population, capital, 258.
• Towns, 259.
• ---- ——, city of New Granada, i. 258.
• Santa Rosa de Cosiquiriachi, town of New Spain, i. 94.
• Santa Rosa isle, Pacific, i. 202.
• Santanilla isle, i. 199.
• Santiago, capital of Chili, scite, population, streets, buildings, squares, suburbs, ii. [263].
• Cathedral, mint, governor, bishopric, trade, ii. [264].
• Santiago, province of Chili, ii. [271].
• Santiago del Estero, city of La Plata, ii. [212].
• Santo Tomé, capital of Guiana, ii. [72].
• St. Anastasia, isle of, Florida, i. 19.
• St. Augustine, city of Florida, i. 11.
• St. Felix and St. Ambrose isles, Pacific, ii. [296].
• St. John's, river of Florida, i. 14.
• St. Lorenzo isle, Pacific, ii. [296].
• St. Mark's, town of Florida, i. 12.
• St. Martin, plains of, ii. [221].
• St. Mary's river, boundary between Florida and the United States, i. 14.
• St. Saverio, town of Chili, ii. [275].
• Sangai, or Mecas, volcano, i. 301.
• Sangallan isle, Pacific, ii. [296].
• Sansonate, town and district of Guatimala, i. 162.
• Sapotes, i. 245.
• Sariacu, village on the Maranon, ii. [152].
• Savannah of the Orinoco, i. 223.
• Sayri Tupac, 17th and last Inca of Peru, ii. [86].
• Scotch Darien Company, i. 241.
• Sechura, town of Peru, ii. [122].
• Sensitive plant, i. 242.
• Serrana isles, i. 199.
• Serranilla isles, i. 199.
• Settlements formerly made in the Straits of Magellan, ii. [291].
• Sicasica, province and town of La Plata, ii. [181].
• Sierra de Canatagua divides North from South America, i. 5. 230.
• ---- Madre, range of mountains, i. 35. 68. 73.
• ---- de las Grullas, i. 36. 75.
• ---- Gorda, i. 98.
• ---- Verde, i. 36.
• ---- de San Martin, i. 151.
• ---- —— Pacaraimo, i. 222.
• ---- —— Quineropaca, i. 222.
• ---- —— Paria, ii. [39].
• ---- —— San Carlos, ii. [154].
• Silla de Caraccas, i. 220. ii. [8].
• Silla Casa, mercury veins in Peru, ii. [136].
• Silva, exploratory journey of, in Guiana, ii. [71].
• Silver exported from New Spain, i. 42.
• ---- produced annually in New Spain, i. 43.
• ---- native, found in Batopilas, i. 43.
• Sinaruco river, ii. [67].
• Sinchi Roca, 2d Peruvian Inca, ii. [85].
• Singular monuments in Cuyo, ii. [218].
• Sir Francis Drake takes Porto Bello, i. 238.
• ---- —— —— takes Carthagena, i. 249.
• Sisal, port of Yucatan, i. 158.
• Slave trade, origin of, ii. [22].
• Slaves of New Spain, i. 48.
• Snow, limits of perpetual snow in Mexico, i. 47.
• Socorro, town of New Granada, i. 270.
• Socorro isle, Pacific, i. 202.
• Soconusco, district and town of Guatimala, i. 161.
• Solola, district of Guatimala, i. 162.
• Sombrerete, town and mines of New Spain, i. 99.
• Sonora, intendancy of New Spain, boundaries, districts of, capital, i. 86.
• ----, district of New Spain, i. 88.
• ----, city of New Spain, i. 89.
• Sotara, volcano, i. 280.
• Sources of the Apurimac or Maranon, ii. [149].
• ---- of the Magdalena and Cauca, i. 277.
• Steam engine much wanted in the American mines, i. 42.
• Suchitepeque, town and province of Guatimala, i. 162.
• Sucumbios missions of New Granada, i. 336.
• Sumasinta, river of New Spain, i. 149.
• Sunchuli mountain, celebrated for its gold mines, ii. [185].
• Sutiles, or limes, use of in cookery, i. 245.
• T
• Tabasco, province of New Spain, former extent of, i. 147.
• Climate, productions, chief town, 148.
• Lakes, towns, rivers, 149.
• Volcanoes, 150.
• ---- island, i. 148. 194.
• ----, city of New Spain, i. 148.
• ---- river, i. 149.
• Tacames, province of New Granada, i. 282.
• ----, city of New Granada, i. 283.
• Tacarigua, Indian name of Lake Valencia, ii. [17].
• Tacna, town of Peru, ii. [150].
• Tacubaya, town of New Spain, i. 133.
• Talca, or San Augustin, city of Chili, ii. [275].
• Talcaguana, road of, in the bay of Concepcion, ii. [279].
• Tambo, or palace of the Incas, i. 301.
• Tamiagua lake, i. 149.
• Tampico river, i. 149.
• Taquari, river of La Plata, ii. [165].
• Tarabitas, or flying bridges, i. 257.
• Tarma, intendancy of Peru, ii. [126].
• ----, city of Peru, ii. [128].
• Tavantin-suyu, ancient name of Peru, ii. [155].
• Tasco, city of New Spain, i. 133.
• Tea of Paraguay, ii. [200]
• Tehuantepeque, city of New Spain, i. 153.
• Temperature of the air in Mexico, i. 46.
• Temple of the Sun at Cuzco, ii. [143].
• Teneriffe, town of New Granada, i. 259.
• Tenochtitlan, original name of Mexico, i. 107.
• Teocallies, or Mexican temples, i. 52.
• Teotihuacan, San Juan de, temple, i. 132.
• Teotl, name of the Deity in Mexico, i. 126.
• Tequehuen, isle of Chonos Archipelago, ii. [287].
• Tequendoma, cataract of, i. 224. 226.
• Tradition concerning, 228.
• Texas, province of New Spain, i. 97.
• Tezcuco, lake of Mexico, i. 129.
• Tiahuanaco, singular monuments at, ii. [184].
• Tibiquari, river of La Plata, ii. [166].
• Tiburon isle, Gulf of California, i. 201.
• Tides, great difference of, at Panama and Porto Bello, i. 234.
• Tierra Firme, general name for Panama, Veragua, and Darien, i. 229.
• ---- —— Proper, or Panama. See Panama.
• ---- ——, conjecture concerning the application of this name to Panama, i. 229.
• Tiguesgalpa, district and town of Guatimala, i. 162.
• Timana, town of New Granada, i, 281.
• Tinta, town of Peru, ii. [145].
• Tipuanis, river of La Plata, ii. [177].
• Tisingal, mine of Guatimala, i. 176.
• Titicaca, or Chucuito Lake, ii. [163]. 185.
• Tlacopan kingdom, i. 104.
• Tlacotalpan, town of New Spain, i. 149.
• Tlascala, city of New Spain, i. 139.
• Tlascalan republic, i. 139.
• Tlatelolco town, i. 108.
• Tlaxcallan republic, i. 103.
• Tocaima, town of New Granada, i. 271.
• Tocunos, river port of Varinas, ii. [65].
• Tocuyo, city of Caraccas, ii. [52].
• ----, river of Caraccas, ii. [45].
• Todo Hierro, castle of Porto Bello, i. 236.
• Tolosa, first Captain General of Caraccas, ii. [21].
• Tolu balsam, i. 242. 250.
• ----, town of New Granada, i. 250.
• Toluca, city of New Spain, i. 133.
• ---- mountain, i. 129.
• Tomahave, mines of La Plata, ii. [177].
• Tomina, district of La Plata, ii. [176].
• Topia, cordillera of, i. 73.
• Topocalma, port of Chili, ii. [274].
• Toqui, great chief of the Araucanians, ii. [290].
• Tortuga Salada isle, ii. [298].
• Totonicapan, district of Guatimala, i. 163.
• Totoral, isle of Chili, ii. [282].
• Toultecs or Toltecs, nation, i. 104.
• Traditions of the Muyscas, i. 228.
• Trexo or Truxo, a negress, great age of, ii. [206].
• Trinidad, discovery of, by Columbus, ii. [19].
• ----, town of Cuba, i. 191.
• Triste isle, Gulf of Mexico, i. 194.
• Truxillo, intendancy of Peru, boundaries, climate, districts, ii. [120].
• Capital, [124].
• Truxillo, jurisdiction of Peru, ii. [124].
• ----, city of Peru, scite, foundation, buildings, population, fortifications, ii. [124].
• ----, city of Caraccas, ii. [64].
• ----, city of Guatimala, i. 175.
• Tucuman, government of La Plata, boundaries, ii. [204].
• Climate, features, history, [205].
• Capital, [211].
• ----, city of La Plata, ii. [211].
• Tula, river of New Spain, i. 134. 149.
• Tulmero, town of Caraccas, ii. [54].
• Tumbez, town of Peru, ii. [121].
• Tumbibamba, battle of, i. 287.
• Tumiriquiri mountain, ii. [34].
• Tumulus, singular one in Quito, i. 301.
• Tumuli of Quito, i. 304.
• Tunguragua mountain, i. 302.
• ----, or false Maranon river, i. 326.
• Tunja, disappearance of Bochica at, i. 217. 271.
• ----, town of New Granada, i. 271.
• Tupac Amaru, the 1st, revolt of, and death, ii. [100].
• ---- ——, the 2d, or, Jose Gabriel Condorcanqui, revolt of, crowned by the Peruvians, wages dreadful war against the whites, ii. [101].
• Tupac Yupanqui, 12th Inca of Peru, ii. [86].
• Tupungato, mountain of Chili, ii. [249].
• Tuquillo, plains of, i. 221.
• Turbaco, village and volcanitos of, New Granada, i. 251.
• Turco, mines of La Plata, ii. [180].
• Turneff isle, i. 197.
• Tuy, river of Caraccas, ii. [46].
• Tuyu, territory of Buenos Ayres, ii. [228].
• Tuxtla, volcano of New Spain, i. 151.
• Tzapoteca, district of New Spain, i. 154.
• U
• Ucayale, or true Maranon, i. 326.
• Ucucuamo mountain, a supposed El Dorado, i. 222.
• Ulmens, chiefs of the Araucanians, ii. [290].
• Ulua, St. Juan de, island of, fort of, light-house, i. 193.
• Umama, peak of, i. 221.
• Unare, river of Caraccas, ii. [41].
• University of Mexico, i. 61.
• Urcos, town of Peru, ii. [143].
• Urubamba river, ii. [144].
• Uruguay, Jesuits' territories, ii. [199].
• ----, or river of the Missions, ii. [166]. 224.
• Uspallata, silver mines of Chili, ii. [217]. 252.
• V
• Vaca de Castro, government of Peru by, i. 292. ii. [99].
• Valdivia, conquest of Chili by, ii. [235].
• ----, fortress and city of Chili, history, buildings, fortifications, environs, harbour, ii. [281].
• Valencia, city of Caraccas, ii. [55].
• ----, lake of Caraccas, ii. [16].
• Valenciana, mines of, the richest in New Spain, description of, expences of, profit, i. 43.
• Height of, 102.
• Valladolid or Mechoacan, intendancy of New Spain, boundaries and extent, i. 134.
• Features, 135.
• Volcano of Xorullo, 135.
• Population, 137.
• Capital and towns, productions, 137.
• Valladolid, city of New Spain, scite, description of, aqueduct, population, &c., i. 137.
• Valley of Caraccas, i. 254.
• Of Aragua, ib.
• Of Monai, or the Llanos, ib.
• Of the Orinoco, ii. [9].
• Valparaiso, city and port of Chili, scite, history, ii. [267].
• Buildings, trade, [268].
• Harbour,[269].
• Vampyre bat, i. 243.
• Varinas, province of Caraccas, ii. [65].
• ----, city of Caraccas, ii. [68].
• Varu isle, Caribbean Sea, ii. [297].
• Venezuela, origin of the name, ii. [16]. 43.
• ----, province of, boundaries, population, soil, climate, ii. [43].
• Features, [44].
• Commerce, [47].
• Capital, [49].
• Vasco Nuñez de Balboa, discovery of the Pacific by, i. 213.
• Vega de Supia, silver mines of New Granada, i. 272.
• Vela Blasco, first viceroy of Peru, ii. [99].
• Velez, town of New Granada, i. 270.
• Vera Cruz, intendancy of New Spain, boundaries, extent, climate, i. 143.
• Singular features of, productions, population, 144.
• Capital, 145.
• Towns, 146.
• Volcanoes, 150.
• Antiquities, 151.
• ----, city of New Spain, situation, defence, port, history, buildings, i. 145.
• Population, vicinity, yellow fever, 146.
• Vera Cruz el Antigua, town of New Spain, i. 147.
• Veragua, first European colony established on the continent of America, i. 179.
• ----, province of New Granada, i. 229.
• Boundaries, discovery of, by Columbus, i. 177. 211.
• Description of, climate, mines, capital, 178.
• Towns, 179.
• ----, Duke of, title of Columbus, i. 177.
• ----, city of New Granada, i. 178.
• Vera-Paz, province of Guatimala, boundaries, i. 165.
• Extent, climate, features, trade, capital, 166.
• ----, or Coban, city of Guatimala, i. 166.
• Vermelho, or Vermejo river, ii. [166]. 207.
• Vernon, Admiral, attack on Porto Bello by, i. 238.
• Attack on Carthagena by, 249.
• Vicente Yanez Pinzon, discovery of the Maranon by, i. 329.
• Explores Paria, ii. [10].
• Viceroys of New Spain, i. 31.
• Of New Granada, 214.
• Of Peru, ii. [100].
• Viceroyalty of New Spain. See New Spain.
• ---- of New Granada, erection of, i. 293.
• ---- of Peru, ii. [75].
• ---- of Buenos Ayres, or La Plata, ii. [155].
• Victoria, town of Caraccas, ii. [54].
• ----, or Tabasco, town of New Spain, i. 148.
• Vicuna, or Peruvian camel, ii. [137]. 253.
• Vilcamayo river, i. 326. ii. [144].
• Vilcanota, chain of, boundary between Peru and La Plata, ii. [146].
• Vilcas Guaman, district and town of Peru, ii. [139].
• Villa Rica de la Vera Cruz, founded by Cortez, i. 23.
• Villa Rica, town of Paraguay, ii. [204].
• ---- ——, volcano of Chili, ii. [249].
• ---- ——, lake of Chili, ii. [250].
• Villa Hermosa, town of New Spain, i. 149.
• Villa de Leon, town of New Spain, i. 103.
• Villa del Principe, town of Cuba, i. 191.
• Vilumilla, toqui of the Chilese, ii. [243].
• Vinegar river, singular stream of Popayan, i. 281.
• Violence of the winds on the Andes, i. 302.
• Vizcacha, or Chilese fox, ii. [256].
• Volcanitos de Turbaco, i. 251.
• Volcano of Guayna Patina, in Peru, ii. [148].
• ---- of Peteroa, in Chili, ii. [249]. 274.
• ---- of Villa Rica, in Chili, ii. [249].
• Volcanoes of New Spain, i. 36.
• ---- of the Andes, i. 224.
• ---- of Chili, ii. [249].
• Voyages of Columbus. See Columbus.
• ---- of different travellers on the Maranon, i. 330.
• ---- of Father Girval up the Maranon, ii. [151].
• ---- of Magalhaens, ii. [292].
• W
• Welsers, a German company, to whom Caraccas was intrusted, ii. [20].
• West India Isles of Spain, number of, political divisions, i. 179.
• Wheat, introduction of, into Quito, i. 305.
• ----, quantity cultivated in New Spain, i. 38.
• Whites, number of, in New Spain, i. 47.
• ----, number of, in Spanish America, ii. [319].
• Workmen and labourers in the Mexican mines often steal the metals, i. 44.
• X
• Xalapa, city of New Spain, gives its name to jalap, i. 39.
• Population, scite, climate, height, i. 147.
• Xaquijaguana valley, place where Gonzalo Pizarro was taken prisoner, ii. [144].
• Xarayes, lake of La Plata, ii. [162].
• Xauxa, district and town of Peru, ii. [137].
• ----, or Jauja, river of Peru, ii. [127].
• Xexemani, suburb of Carthagena, i. 246.
• Xexuy, river of La Plata, ii. [166].
• Xochicalco lake, i. 130.
• ----, monument of, i. 132.
• Xorullo volcano, singular formation of, i. 135.
• Xuxuy, or San Salvador, city of La Plata, ii. [213].
• Y
• Yaguache, district of New Granada, i. 312.
• Yanos, fort of New Spain. See Janos.
• Yahuar Huacac, 8th Inca of Peru, ii. [85].
• Yapura river, i. 327. 332.
• Yaracuy, river of Caraccas, ii. [46].
• Year of the Moscas, i. 218.
• Yecorato, mines of New Spain, i. 91.
• Yellow fever at Caraccas, ii. [6].
• At La Guayra, [7].
• Yopez, river of New Spain, i. 143.
• Ypacary, lake of La Plata, ii. [163].
• Ypoa, lake of La Plata, ii. [163].
• Yquilao, isle of the Archipelago of Chonos, ii. [287].
• Yvari river, ii. [154].
• Yucatan or Merida, intendancy of, boundaries, extent, productions, climate, i. 155.
• Mountains, rivers, inhabitants, British settlers, 156.
• Logwood cutting, Indians, 157.
• Population, capital, towns, 158.
• Yupanqui, 11th Inca of Peru, ii. [85].
• Yuranqui, plain of, place where a degree of the meridian was measured by the Spanish and French mathematicians, i. 297.
• Yurba river, ii. [154].
• Yutay river, ii. [154].
• Z
• Zacatecas, intendancy of, boundaries, extent, population, mines, capital, and towns, i. 99.
• ---- ——, city of New Spain, i. 99.
• Zacatula, town of New Spain, i. 134.
• ----, river of New Spain, i. 134.
• Zamba, town of New Granada, i. 251.
• Zaque or Xaque, title of the Prince of the Moscas, i. 321.
• Zeruma, town of New Granada, i. 321.
• Zinu, town of New Granada, i. 251.
• Zippas, chiefs of the Moscas, i. 217.
• Zitara, canal of, unites the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans, i. 273.
• Zumpango, lake of Mexico, i. 130.

FINIS.

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