Reminiscences of Travel in Australia, America, and Egypt

by Sir Richard Tangye

CHAPTER XI.

Friday being the Mohammedan Sabbath we devoted this day to the Dancing and Howling Dervishes, as they hold their principal zikr or ceremonial on that day. We first visited the convent of the dancing Dervishes and witnessed one of their performances, and certainly a curious spectacle it was. In the centre of the room a space of about 50ft. in diameter is railed off, and about twenty solemn-looking men in hats like the tall “tile” without brims are sitting opposite the door. They looked like a lot of ancient “Friends” at the head of a meeting. In the gallery above were some musicians, one of whom was playing a flute in a melancholy manner, and another reciting a prayer. At a certain point the Dervishes within the circle bow and rise, and taking off their outer garments begin walking round the enclosure with solemn steps and slow, headed by the Chief Priest or Sheik. On passing the carpet upon which the Sheik has been sitting they turn and bow, and this is repeated two or three times; then they go into the middle of the enclosure, spreading out their garments like ladies in the old minuet; the music quickens, and they begin to whirl around on one foot, occasionally touching the ground with the other. The performers’ eyes are closed (or appear to be so), but they keep on in perfect order—never touching one another—while the old Priest walks about among them. Some of the more experienced Dervishes can revolve fifty or sixty times a minute, keeping it up for nearly half an hour. It was a curious proceeding altogether, and, for a wonder, no backsheesh was demanded, the Priests being supported by endowments and occasional gifts from the Khedive. Mounting our donkeys we rode off to the Howling Dervishes, where we found them in full howl. About twenty of them were engaged in making the most hideous noise imaginable. These fellows had their hair very long and shaggy, and threw it about their heads in the wildest manner. Every time they raise their heads they utter the word HU (God alone), which sounds like the yell of a wild beast, at times the excitement rising to such a height that some of them would foam at the mouth and fall to the ground apparently in a fit. They wound up their proceedings with a prolonged howl and a deep grunt. These Dervishes, like their dancing brethren, are supported by Government endowment.

I have no doubt that when first instituted these “pious orgies” were entered upon with a due sense of solemnity, and I believe in places remote from the regular tourist route the religious feeling still predominates, but the Howling and Dancing Dervishes in Cairo have long since become one of the regular sights to which foreign visitors are always taken.

Upon the occasion of our visit there were several clergymen present, more than one artist, and a number of ladies, amongst the latter being a placid looking Quaker, who, with hands folded before her, was calmly surveying the “creaturely activity” of the Howling enthusiasts.

We afterwards paid a visit to Miss Whateley’s Schools, at the British Mission. There are over 300 native children here, and we heard many of them read in English and French, and also do some exercises in translation. The girls were engaged in embroidering, reading, and writing, and they sang two hymns in Arabic while we stayed. Then we saw them muster for the recess, and a bright little fellow stepped out into the middle of the hall and repeated the Lord’s Prayer, first in English and then in Arabic, after which they went out in a most orderly manner. Miss Whateley seems much encouraged at the result of her many years’ labours; but I have no doubt she has had her times of discouragement. My wife visited an Arab school in Syria, the superintendent of which told her that after two years’ continuous labour amongst the people of his district, the result was so unsatisfactory that he was greatly discouraged and was inclined to abandon the mission. Calling the people together he told them of his disappointment, and said that although he had worked diligently amongst them for so long a time, they appeared to be no better than before, and that he felt that he must leave them. The people, who had received many benefits from him in various ways, began to be seriously alarmed, and entreated him to try them yet again. One man got up in the meeting and said, “Teacher, you must not go, you have made us much better. When you came first there was a woman living near who used to steal all the fowls in her neighbourhood, but now,” he said, “she only steals the eggs.” The superintendent’s features somewhat relaxed on hearing this, and the quick-witted Arabs immediately perceiving their advantage, renewed their appeals, a woman rising and saying, “Teacher, when you came first my neighbour’s son used to thrash his mother every day, but since he has been at your school he only thrashes her once a month.” The superintendent remained, and is well satisfied with the progress which has since been made.

In the afternoon we went for a drive in the Shubra Avenue, which is the Rotten Row of Cairo. The custom is to drive quickly up one side, returning slowly on the other, the drive occupying an hour. The Khedive drove past us in his carriage, preceded by two magnificent fellows (sais) whose duty it is to run in front of the carriage. They were dressed in gorgeous gold tissue waistcoats, long white skirts, a silk sash of many colours round the waist, a fez with long tassel, legs and feet bare, and in the hand a handsome staff. These men run quite as fast as the horses, keep up the pace for a couple of hours, and are employed to clear the crowded streets for the carriages. This they do by shouting loudly in a fine resonant voice, which is very effectual. The avenue was crowded with carriages, some of them containing ladies of the harem. Their carriages have windows all round.

Some of the ladies are shrouded as for burial; others leave only the eyes uncovered, while some (the prettiest, presumably) wear only thin gauze veils, through which their faces are plainly to be seen. All wear the same languishing expression, and appear to be very fond of peeping at the Europeans, and as we passed and repassed them they would recognise us with a smile, and then, to save appearances, turn away. When we passed the guard-house the soldiers turned out, thinking it was the Khedive’s carriage, and drew up in saluting order.

They were greatly disgusted on discovering their mistake. At four o’clock a general stampede of carriages, horsemen, runners, and pedestrians takes place, and the road is soon quite deserted.

One of the features of Cairene life is the universal use of donkeys by all classes of the people; ancient women shrouded from head to foot in black gauze, old men with long grey beards, and noses not much shorter—their heads wrapped in turbans, and robes covering the donkeys’ backs—jogging along, rubbing against the British tourist, the latter looking anything but grave and serious on his Jerusalem pony. Our party certainly did not look more bizarre than others; but we should not feel inclined to enter Birmingham in the same state as we often entered and left Cairo.

One morning we got up early for a donkey-ride across the Nile to see, amongst other things, the garden and farm produce arrive from the country round. Crossing the Nile we turned down a fine avenue of sycamores, two or three miles long. The Khedive’s gardens lie on one side and the river at the other. Moored to the river bank was an Englishman’s dahabieh or Nile boat. A party had just returned from the cataracts, and on the upper deck we observed a dead crocodile. Riding by one palace towards another, we passed a crowd of people on their way to market, with bullocks, goats, camels laden with clover, women with the round cakes so common here, and a great variety of other things. Presently we sighted the Pyramids, one side lit up with the morning sun, while another was in deep shadow. The Sphinx was also plainly to be seen.

Leaving the Gizeh Road leading to the Pyramids we turned towards Cairo, our donkeys instantly knowing that we were homeward-bound, and needing no persuasion to gallop back to breakfast. On nearing the bridge we came upon hosts of camels, donkeys, and oxen laden with produce, and being assessed for the octroi or town-tax. The police were armed with long spikes, which they pushed into the load to ascertain if anything else was packed inside. It was an interesting scene—the busy crowd, the magnificent river, and the brilliant morning sunshine making up a picture not easily forgotten.

One of the most interesting drives in the neighbourhood of Cairo is to Heliopolis—part of the way lying through a fine avenue of acacias—and passing the old camping ground used as a rendezvous by the Mecca pilgrims. It is the old caravan road, and stretches far away into the desert, from which came to us a delightfully fresh breeze. We also passed the Abbaseyeh Palace, built by Abbas Pasha, who, fearing assassination, lived here in seclusion, keeping sentinels on the towers to give warning of the approach of a mob, and dromedaries and fleet horses always ready saddled for escape into the desert. He was, however, murdered at last in spite of all his precautions.

Along the road are some beautiful plantations of palms, oranges, and lemons, castor-oil and other plants growing in the greatest luxuriance. Heaps of oranges were lying on the ground. After driving through a fine olive plantation we came out upon an extensive plain, where, in 1517, Sultan Selim defeated the last of the Mameluke Dynasty, and made Egypt a Turkish province. Here too, in 1800, the French defeated the Turks and regained possession of Cairo. Our guide called a halt in order to show us a fine old sycamore, called the virgin’s tree, under which Joseph and Mary are said to have rested during their flight into Egypt. I asked Abaid if he believed the story. Placing his hand upon his heart and bowing his head, he replied, with something of the sententiousness of a Dr. Johnson, “Sir, I am a Christian!” I felt inclined to tell him that I also was a Christian, but that I did not believe it; but then why should I disturb his honest belief? Soon the obelisk of Heliopolis came in view, and we knew we were near it by the crowd of youngsters swarming round the carriage. But I adopted my old plan of being the first to ask for backsheesh, causing them to laugh so heartily that they could hardly take up the cry.

The obelisk is about 6ft. square at the base and about 68ft. high; it is the oldest in Egypt, and was erected by the founder of the twelfth dynasty. The inscriptions on its four sides give its history and the account of its erection about 3,000 B.C.

Heliopolis was called Bethshemish by the Jews, and in Exodus is called ON. It was here that Joseph married Asenath, the daughter of Potipherah, and where Moses became learned in the wisdom of the Egyptians. Here Plato and Herodotus studied, and Josephus says—“The city was given to the Children of Israel as their residence when they came down into Egypt.” The obelisk, as we see it, was old when Abraham came into the country; but, notwithstanding its venerable age and intensely interesting associations, it has not been too sacred for tourists who have been caught chipping pieces off the edges.

After lunch we drove to Bûlak, an interesting suburb of Cairo. The houses are very old, and the street-scenes very curious and thoroughly Eastern in character. The large overhanging windows and casements familiar in pictures are everywhere to be seen, and now and then a glimpse of a female face is caught peeping furtively out at the passers-by. The streets are very narrow, and the coachman yells and shouts at the foot-passengers in his way, not scrupling to apply the whip to quicken their movements. All this is taken patiently—far too much so—and betrays the saddest side of Egyptian character, speaking volumes for the way in which the people have been treated.

Hard by was a curious sight. Standing against a wall, and raised above the level of the street like another Simon Stylites, was a strange-looking man, whose only raiment consisted of a sack, through a hole in which one arm was thrust. In his hand he held a small instrument like a garden-rake, with which he tortured his back, while his gaze “seemed upon the future bent.” Some irreverent tourists looking on were presently moved to laughter at the peculiar exhibition, upon which the holy man gave them one glance of wonder and pity, and then resumed his gaze into futurity.

It being fair-day, there were a large number of booths, cheap theatres, peep-shows, merry-go-rounds, etc., just as one sees in England. In another place was a story-teller, surrounded by an appreciative audience, who treated every “point” with loud laughter. It was curious to see how earnest and interested they all were, and the dramatic manner in which the story was told.

The National Museum for Egyptian antiquities, founded by Mariette Bey, is situated in Bûlak. Our time being short, we proposed paying it another visit, which, however, we were unfortunately unable to do. Much of the sculpture is really marvellous in its life-like character. One of the most remarkable statues is of wood, and is said to be 4,000 years old. It is admirably carved. There is also a large collection of jewellery, beads, enamels, etc.; chess and draughtboards, an artist’s paint-box and brushes, bread, eggs, fruit, pieces of well-made rope and thread; an axe of gilt bronze, having a gilt cedar-wood handle; a gold boat with twelve silver oarsmen, and many other curiosities. The museum is one of the most interesting sights in Egypt, and will well repay many visits.

In the evening some of our party took donkeys and a guide and returned to Bûlak to see some of the shows, but the first they visited was of so extraordinary a character they decided to see no more until their taste was educated up or down to the present Egyptian standard.

The railway journey from Cairo to Alexandria occupied about 6½ hours. The line crosses the Delta of the Nile, the country being very flat all the way.

The soil here is extremely fertile, and it was very interesting to watch the various agricultural operations as we rode along. We particularly noticed the many modes in which water is supplied to the land. Alongside the railway runs a stream issuing from the Nile, and the different holdings of land are bordered with little streamlets in place of hedges.

At the junction of these streamlets with the main stream may frequently be seen a couple of men standing on either bank lifting water from the river to the streamlets by means of a huge flat bowl, holding probably eight to ten gallons. This vessel is lifted on either side by means of two long handles diverging from each other, and it is surprising how large a quantity of water can be thrown up by means of it in an hour. The bowl is always in motion with a fine swing, and it is evident the men are working on their own account.

Every station at which we stopped is crowded with people selling oranges, water, etc., and very clever they are at their business too, very persuasive, and as quick as thought to see if you are inclined to buy. The children are the merriest, liveliest things imaginable, with bright eyes and shining white teeth. Here also may be seen numbers of beggars, young and old, calling out eternal backsheesh. We saw some venerable old fellows, bent nearly double with age, and with hair and whiskers quite white, who entreated us piteously to help them, saying “Got no mother, got no father, backsheesh!” Such orphans as these never obtained our sympathy, although they afforded us great amusement.

While in Cairo, news came of the dissolution of Parliament by Lord Beaconsfield, and we hastened to Alexandria to take the steamer for Italy on the following day; but on arriving we found the weather so excessively rough that the steamers were detained: and, as there seemed no prospect of getting off, we determined to proceed to Port Saïd, by way of Ismailïa, in order to take the steamer sailing thence for Naples, hoping on some future occasion to be able to see what is to be seen in Alexandria. A day’s railway-ride brought us to Ismailïa, from which place we took the evening mail-boat to Port Saïd. The night was very cold, and after a seven hours’ trip on the Canal it was very pleasant to find ourselves in the magnificent hotel built by Prince Henry of the Netherlands, attached to the Dutch factory at Port Saïd.

One of the Orient Steamers was due to sail on the following day, and we expected to proceed to Naples in her, but after providing us with tickets the agent sent us word that she had been detained a week and that we must choose another vessel. There was no other way of escape than by taking the P. and O. Steamer “Mongolia” to Malta, trusting to being able to find a ready means of crossing to Naples from that place. Unfortunately a heavy storm in the Mediterranean had the effect of delaying our arrival in Malta some hours, and we had the mortification of seeing the Naples steamer leaving the harbour as we were entering it. We arrived on Monday and found there would not be another steamer until Thursday, and as the Birmingham election was to take place on Wednesday in the following week our chance of getting there seemed very doubtful. Leaving Malta, however, on the Thursday, by dint of almost continual travelling night and day, we arrived safely in Birmingham at half-past ten on the Wednesday morning, and proceeded at once to register our votes for Bright and Chamberlain, two of the three successful Liberal candidates.

CHAPTER XII. [226]

After a stormy passage through the Mediterranean we turned in towards Port Saïd, and soon after sighting the handsome lighthouse took the French pilot on board, anchoring broadside on to the main street of the town and within fifty yards of the shore. A motley throng, in boats quite as motley soon filled up the space between the ship and the shore, and a wild jabber composed of a mixture of English, French, Italian, and Arabic filled the air. Presently the usual tribe of pedlars came on deck, and having spread out their wares invited the passengers to buy, somewhat after the fashion of London tradesmen in Cheapside hundreds of years ago with their cry of “What lack ye?” The inevitable Maltese with his lace, the Greek money-changer walking about with his hands full of silver offering to change, and astonishing the honest Britisher on his first voyage by his liberality in proffering twenty shillings for a sovereign—the rate of exchange, however, leaving him a very good profit. Near him is a Hebrew, whom I remember having seen at Aden, the black curls over his brow reminding one forcibly of Benjamin Disraeli. This man keeps to his trade of dealer in ostrich feathers.

Here also are gentlemen of the long robe—not lawyers, but Arabs, in ample white night-shirts and turbans—offering to young ladies in the most seductive tones, at two shillings each, coral necklaces, which can be purchased in Birmingham at three shillings the dozen, while dealers in photographs, melons, and oranges walk about always ready to take one-fourth of what they ask for their wares. Parallel with us are the quays, on which are crowds of people of all nationalities. The Custom House in front is occupied by a company of English artillerymen, the entrance being guarded by a British sentry, while overhead the Egyptian flag is flying. Away to the left is the old Dutch hotel, recently bought by the British Government, and now occupied by two hundred men of the Royal Marine Light Infantry.

Immediately in front of the ship is the main street of the town. It is perfectly straight and about half a mile long, with a small public garden near the end. In this street are a large number of casinos, where music is dealt out at nights by bands of female performers, who are called “Bohemiennes,” and where, we are assured, everything is properly respectable—until eleven o’clock! Many of our lady passengers, in the innocence of their hearts, looking forward to a pleasant concert during the evening, are much shocked when they learn that the said concerts are held in casinos.

We landed at ten o’clock, and had a leisurely walk through the town and halfway through the Arab quarter, but the smells were so offensive that we turned back. A lot of young Arabs, however, urged us to go on farther, for there was an Arab hanging, but as we did not think a dead Arab would be likely to be a more agreeable sight than a living one we declined. The culprit had been executed that morning for the murder of his grand-daughter, nine months previously. An account of his crime was written in Arabic and attached to his breast, and the large scissors with which he committed the murder were suspended around his neck. Some of the young Arabs were vexed with us because we would not give them backsheesh, and began to be insulting, talking about Arabi, when presently a smart youth of ten years old interfered, and, cuffing the ears of the young monkeys, loudly proclaimed the prowess of the British.

We went to look at the Dutch House where the Marines were quartered, and a young officer, Lieutenant Cotter, kindly asked us to go over the building. The rooms are very fine; but what a change in the scene since we slept here for a night two-and-half years ago! Then the hotel was in operation, and the rooms were furnished as elaborately as in the house of an English gentleman. But everything had been taken away, and the officers were sleeping on the marble floors, and the men on the floors of the adjoining warehouses, where also the horses were stabled. Lieutenant Cotter had made a bedstead for himself, and one of his men had made him a bath, and these, with a chair, completed the furnishing of his room; his wash-basin consisted of a large flower-pot, with a cork in the hole at the bottom. The Marines arrived in Egypt a few days after Tel-el-Kebir, and so saw no fighting; but they had to march over to Fort Gemileh, seven miles away, and fully expected a very severe fight, as the fort is heavily armed with modern guns, and was manned by Nubians, who are reported to be excellent soldiers. Fortunately, however, there was no need to fight, as the commander recognised that the war was over.

At night a number of our passengers, of all classes, went ashore to attend the concert, and one of them known as Cetewayo, alias the Carrib or the Pirate King, announced his intention of kicking up a great row at the casino (of course after eleven o’clock), and he was as good as his word, and others besides, several having to be locked up for the night. We visited the soldiers in the barracks, and they were very glad to have a chat. We sent them the newspapers we had brought from England; with which they were greatly pleased. They told us the numbers, variety, and voracity of the insects was something maddening; some being busy at night, and others during the day, and that it was almost impossible to keep oneself decent. Altogether Port Saïd must be a dreadful place for Englishmen to live in; there was very little society, and I was told that at the time there was only one unmarried lady left.

The commanding officer of the Marines told us that the principal duty they had to perform as “police” was to keep the English sailors and visitors in order, almost all the drunkenness and trouble coming from them—to our disgrace be it said.

The land all along the coast lies very low, and is not seen until the yellowish-green water near it is reached. The water is discoloured by the mud of the Nile, one of the mouths of which (the Tanitic) is situated a little to the west of Port Saïd. This ceaseless flow of mud was one of the greatest difficulties experienced in making the Canal, and necessitated important and expensive works to prevent its access to the harbour. Lake Menzaleh is formed by this Nile mouth, and covers an area of about 1,000 square miles. Good wildfowl shooting is to be had there, and there are numbers of flamingos and other birds. Port Saïd, as is well known, owes its origin to the Canal, and is situated on an island separating Lake Menzaleh from the Mediterranean. The town was expected by M. de Lesseps to progress very rapidly—indeed to rival Alexandria, but it has not gone ahead so fast as he expected. At present there are about 12,000 people there, and I should say more than half are Europeans. The town is built very regularly, and consists of rather temporary brick and wooden houses. The making of the harbour was a very difficult work. It occupies 570 acres, and is excavated to a depth of 26ft. Two massive piers protect it, running out to the sea in a north-easterly direction for about a mile and a half. At starting they are 1,440 yards apart, narrowing to 770 yards, the navigable entrance being about 150 yards wide. The piers are constructed of artificial stone, composed of seven parts of sand from the desert, and of one part of hydraulic lime from France. The concrete was mixed by machinery, and then poured into great wooden moulds, where it remained for weeks, after which the wood was taken away to allow of the blocks hardening. Each block weighed twenty tons, and contained 13½ cubic yards; no fewer than 25,000 of these blocks were used in constructing the breakwater. The lighthouse is a very handsome structure, and is also formed of blocks of concrete; it is 164ft. high, and can be seen twenty-four miles away, being fitted with the electric light. (Baedeker).

At 4.30 p.m. our vessel started for the Canal, and having safely entered it made fast for the night, as no travelling is allowed after sunset. During the evening myriads of gnats and mosquitoes came on to the ship, the electric light being absolutely dimmed by them in many places, and we had good reason to expect a trying night from their presence.

While our ship’s doctor and a party of friends were ashore at Port Saïd they were greatly amused by the attention of a number of Arab lads who followed them everywhere. During their walk in the native quarter the party came upon a great crowd, and one of the young Arabs referring to the man who had been hanged during the morning stated that the man was not an Arab, but a Greek, and proceeded to explain the distinguishing characteristics of the various nationalities represented at this cosmopolitan port; he said—

“The Greek, he bery bat man, he stab—so (with a vigorous motion as though stabbing an opponent in the chest).

“’gyptian, he bery goot man, he only slap, so.

“English man, he bery goot man (striking an attitude); he say ‘Come on and box.’

“English man—he bery goot man.

“English man—he bery goot man.

“Melikan man—he bery goot man.

“Melikan man—he bery goot man.

“’talian man—he bery bat man.”

Ending with a very uncomplimentary allusion to our Irish fellow-subjects.

What is wanted to make Port Saïd really prosperous is a railway from the interior to bring the produce from the cotton and wheat fields, and then the steamers which bring the coals could at once load up for home, saving the necessity of going empty to Alexandria for their homeward freights. Last year 540,000 tons of coal were sold at Port Saïd, and all the ships which brought it had to go away empty. But so long as the Canal Company are entitled to all the Customs dues at Port Saïd, it is not to be expected that the Egyptian Government will favour the construction of such a line.

Some of our fellow-passengers were members of the Blue Ribbon Army, and although they were by no means obtrusive in supporting their views, being contented for the most part with wearing the “bit of blue”—others resented this reasonable liberty, styling it an impertinence, and formed themselves into an opposition Order, which they called the Red Ribbon Army, and they busied themselves in enlisting recruits. It was noticeable that, with the exception of an old roué or two, only young men with small heads and long legs, who, if they ever indulged in reading, confined their choice to books translated or adapted from the French, composed the rank and file, the officers being older men, who were not often seen out of the gambling or smoke-room. One of these latter was called the “Spider,” because from an early hour in the morning he sat in the smoke-room waiting to “play” with any who might choose to try conclusions with him.

The Patron and President of the Society was a noble lord, and certainly a better choice could not have been made. Amongst the rules of the Society were these:—

Any member found without his red ribbon is to be fined in drinks all round.

Members are to be neither too drunk nor too sober.

Members must never go to bed quite sober.

Members must never refuse a drink.

The President certainly set a fair example in his endeavour to perform the duties of his office, and would never be mistaken for a member of the Blue Ribbon Army, even if he did not wear the badge, for good wine had marked him for its own. Under the fostering influence of such rules and such a “noble” example, it is not to be wondered at that the Army showed a blatant front to the enemy, and that their proceedings soon became disorderly. At this juncture some good-natured moderate men joined the Reds, with the view, it appears, of moderating their offensive tactics, and the result was a manifesto which set forth, amongst other things—That the Red Ribbon Army entertained no feelings of ill-will toward those who did not agree with them, and invited all to join their ranks, and that they assured abstainers that there was always iced water on the sideboard of the smoke room for their convenience. One of the chiefs of the Reds was a dark man, already referred to as Cetewayo, alias the Carrib. I one day heard this worthy call one of the Reds to account for appearing without his badge, the defaulting member replying that he had “resigned.” “That won’t do,” said the Carrib, “Once a member always a member; come and pay up.” Yes, I thought, when the devil has once got his claws in a man retreat is all but impossible.

Every one of the young fellows who joined the Reds fell into the “Spider’s” web, and were most of them eased of their spare cash through the agency of a pack of cards.

This “Spider” was one day on deck sitting by the side of one of my friends who had just awaked from a doze, to whom he said, “You have had a nap?” “Yes,” I said, “Mr. — takes his nap on deck in the face of day, but you have yours in the dimness of the smoke-room” (alluding to the game of “Nap”). “That’s true,” said he, “I like to play when the light is somewhat dull. These fellows say I am always winning. Well, suppose I am? They keep coming to me, and in Melbourne if they consult an expert on any subject they have to pay two guineas, and I take no less.” “You take no less, and don’t refuse more,” said I. “Exactly, that is just it,” said the Spider, and he was said to have cleared out most of the card-playing fraternity. Ultimately, the almost unvaried success of the Spider caused a general feeling to be raised against him amongst the gamblers; but as long as there still remained some who had not been relieved of their money, and others whom the Spider had allowed to win from him occasionally, this feeling did not exist to any great extent. One evening, however, the Pirate charged the web-spinner with having cheated him, and a general disturbance ensued, the Pirate assuring the Spider that as soon as they quitted the ship he would soundly thrash him with a whip, which he displayed, so we were in hopes of having a little excitement on leaving the vessel. One result, however, was to practically dissolve the Red Ribbon army, and the Carrib then came out in a new character. At the fancy dress ball held on the promenade deck he appeared in a dress suit, and was at once saluted with the cry, “Here’s a lark, Cetewayo disguised as a gentleman!”

The noble President of the Reds was somewhat of a curiosity in his way, a very kind-hearted sympathetic man, as many a poor invalid in the second and third classes could testify. The doctor told us of many instances of his lordship’s kindness in visiting some of the sick third-class passengers, and giving them dainties from his private stores; and I heard one poor woman tell him she should never forget him for his goodness to her husband. Some of our colonial passengers, wishing to make the most of their unusual proximity to nobility, were too persevering in their attentions to his lordship, and evidently bored him; but the tact with which he “shunted” them, and the studied politeness of his language, did not prevent onlookers detecting a silent “confound their impudence” terminating each reply.

Once, in referring to the pertinacity of these people, he remarked to a bystander, in a hissing tone, “One must be civ-il.” The noble lord took a great interest in everything pertaining to sailors; his regard for them was evidently warm and genuine. While we were passing through the Canal, coming to our anchorage for the night, we found the space at our disposal was very limited, as the vessels were numerous, consequently our men had to be very active in getting the ship into her berth. I was standing by his lordship’s side, looking at the sailors running along the sandbank, carrying the heavy cable as nimbly as though it was a fishing line. Lord — was delighted, and, turning to me, and in his funny fashion grasping his clothes in front of the place where his stomach should be, exclaimed in tones of rapture, “Look at our de-ah blue-jackets, look!”

His lordship was very popular with the young men on board, but I hope he did not often make such observations to them, as one young gentleman informed me he had made to him, speaking of his past life. “I have committed many sins in my time,” said his lordship, “and I hope to live to commit many more.”

CHAPTER XIII.

Returning from Australia we touched at Colombo, where my companion and a friend paid an interesting visit to Arabi, who invited them to dine with him. It soon became evident that intercourse would have to be conducted through interpreters, as Arabi understood neither French nor English, and his visitors were ignorant of Arabic.

My friend was an invalid, and the first dish put on the table caused him great anxiety, as it was one which his medical man had given him strict orders to avoid. What was to be done? My companion explained to the invalid that in the East no greater affront could be given to a host than to decline to partake of what was offered, and so, not having provided himself with Jack the Giant Killer’s device for disposing of surplus food, he was fain to eat it, not without certain fearful forebodings.

Arabi’s personal appearance had greatly altered, he having grown a beard which was turning grey. At the table with him were his two sons, lads apparently of ten and twelve years respectively. On his left sat Fehmi Pasha, a man of very striking appearance with a face indicating considerable intellectual power. Arabi desired to know what the English thought of him, a question which my companion parried by saying the English always respected a brave man. Rising to take leave of the host, my companion patted the head of the eldest boy in a kindly manner. This seemed to move Arabi in a singular way. He rose and said, in a sharp tone of command, to his boys, “Salaam,” then, crossing the room and placing his hand on my companion’s shoulder, said with some emotion, “Ah, ah, good, good.”

Proceeding on our voyage we called at Aden, a dreadful place, without a single redeeming feature, in European eyes. Those of our countrymen who are compelled to reside here in the service of the country are entitled to the deepest sympathy of every Englishman. The possession of Aden is of considerable importance to England and to India, both as a coaling station and as a military post, although in the latter respect it is of less importance than formerly. The islands commanding the channels at the entrance to the Red Sea are after all the key to the position, one of the most important being the Island of Perim, the acquisition of which does more credit to the ’cuteness of the British commander at Aden than to his sense of honour—that is, if the story told of him be true. It is related that one evening, nearly forty years ago, two French war-ships cast anchor before Aden, and the English governor with a laudable desire to ascertain the object of their visit invited the commanders of the ships to dinner. Unfortunately for France the officers were not teetotallers, and the weather being hot and the British commander’s wine strong, the gallant Frenchmen’s tongues were loosened, and the perfidious Englishman ascertained that the mission with which his guests were charged was no less than the occupation of the Island of Perim in the name of Louis Philippe, King of the French!

Without losing a moment the governor sent orders to the captain of the English gunboat lying at Aden to proceed with all speed and in the strictest secrecy to take possession of the island in the name of the Queen! The sun had risen before the festivities at the governor’s residence had ceased, and then with many bows his guests departed to their ships, and shortly afterwards left Aden for their destination. On arrival, their astonishment and mortification may be imagined when they saw on the highest point on the island the British flag flying, and the gunboat which they had seen at Aden on the previous day anchored close inshore. The incident gave occasion for much tall talk at the time on the part of the fiery French colonels, and, not without reason, I fear, gave fresh life to the cry of “Perfidious Albion.”

We arrived at Suez in the third week of February, and as soon as our steamer stopped, our old dragoman Hassan came on board with a huge packet of letters for us, and although he had only seen us once before, three years ago, he not only remembered our names but came straight to us and told us he had brought a boat for our use, and that bedrooms were engaged for us at the hotel. We owed all this attention—which was most seasonable, as I was still suffering from the effects of a malarious fever contracted in Australia—to Messrs. Cook and Son, who had been advised of my coming, and here I will say that in Egypt and Syria the name of “Cook” is the talisman which solves all difficulties and robs travelling of nearly all its inconveniences.

On landing we were forcibly struck with the altered demeanour of the people since our previous visit. On that occasion landing was effected under the greatest difficulties. The people seemed to look upon us as fair prey. It was almost impossible for us to keep our luggage together, and the insolent threatening manner in which backsheesh was demanded was not a little disturbing to those who were visiting an eastern country for the first time. But now all was changed; instead of idle excited crowds loitering everywhere, everyone seemed to be engaged in some work, backsheesh was rarely asked for, and always in subdued tones, and one refusal was enough. Even the donkey boys had been reached, for when their proffered services were declined they went away with a “thank you.”

The Suez Hotel is kept by an Englishman, and he informed us that during the war he left it in charge of natives, and found everything safe and in order on his return.

On the following day we proceeded by railway to Cairo, viâ Ismailia and Tel-el-Kebir. At many of the stations British soldiers were on guard, a part of their duty appearing to be the inspection of the natives’ baggage; this was done amidst much good humour on both sides—indeed, all through Egypt the British soldier seemed to be on the best possible terms with the people, as indeed there is every reason why he should be, for it is certain he has been the means of saving the people of Egypt from a tyranny of the worst kind—the tyranny of rapacious pachas, civil and military. With the usual exclusiveness of our nation, our party of four had arranged to have the whole of the compartment of the railway-carriage to ourselves. It is true we paid extra for the convenience, but at one of the stations, the train being very crowded, two Frenchmen endeavoured to enter, being prevented, however, by the Arab conductor. The Frenchmen, with much gesticulation and great volubility, pointed out to the Arab that there were only four persons in the carriage, whereas it was constructed to take eight; the guard insisted that there were eight persons in the compartment, although it was patent to all that there were only four. “Four!” said the Frenchmen. “Eight!” returned the guard, giving us a most wicked wink, which, however, failed to extort backsheesh. Ultimately our would-be companions were safely bestowed elsewhere.

The railway passes by the field of Tel-el-Kebir, the entrenchments stretching as far as the eye can reach. When my companion went over the ground a few weeks after the battle it was covered with debris of every kind, clothing, arms, ammunition, and other ghastly indications of a battle-field.

In one of the entrenchments my friend found a leaf torn from the New Testament, while only a yard or two away was a leaf from the Koran, and hard by he picked up a letter written in Arabic, addressed to a soldier on the field, requesting him to authorise the writer to collect his rents in Cairo.

On reaching the station of Tel-el-Kebir we found a number of tourists who had come up from Cairo to gather curiosities from the battle-field, but since my friend’s visit in the autumn everything had been cleared off, and the new comers were gathering pebbles (!) as mementoes of the famous engagement.

The little grave-yard in which the British troops are buried is situated near to the station, and appeared to be kept in excellent order.

In Cairo, as in Suez, the absence of the feverish excitement, latent insolence, and spirit of unrest, so apparent during our last visit, was very noticeable. There, too, backsheesh was rarely demanded, and most of the people seemed to have something to do.

It was curious to see the English soldiers lounging about the town in all directions. They seemed to be quite at home. One of them informed me he had gone through the Transvaal campaign, but very much preferred the land of Goshen!

While we were in Cairo we often expressed our wonder that the city was ever free from cholera or some other deadly epidemic. The sanitary condition of the streets and public places was shocking in the extreme.

Fronting the Opera House and the great hotels and Government offices are the extensive Ezbekiyeh public gardens, enclosed with iron railings. Around the outside is a very handsome paved footpath, which, although in the very heart of the city, is in many places utterly impassable because of the unspeakable horrors accumulated upon it. If the English occupation of Egypt does nothing more than cause the towns of that country to be properly cleansed, it will be the means of saving as many lives every few years as were lost in the late campaign.

There are two classes of people who undoubtedly view the British occupation of Egypt with great and well-founded dislike—the military party and the pachas. These classes have always played into each other’s hands, and always at the expense of the down-trodden and patient fellaheen—the backbone and mainstay of the country. For the latter class the presence of the British army is an almost unmixed blessing.

From time immemorial the desirability of connecting the Mediterranean and Red Seas by a canal has been fully recognised; but the work does not appear to have been attempted before the reign of Pharaoh Necho, who undertook to construct a canal between the Nile and the Red Sea. In carrying out this work 120,000 Egyptians perished, and before it was completed the King abandoned it, having been informed by the Oracle that the foreigners alone would profit by the work. Eventually the canal was completed under the rule of Darius the Persian, and of the Ptolemies.

The canal was carried through the lakes Balah and Menzaleh, another branch being constructed to the Bitter Lakes, into which the fresh water canal—watering the land of Goshen—emptied itself; but owing to the constant state of war it fell into decay, and was abandoned.

Many suggestions as to the reopening of the waterway have been made in almost every generation since. Bonaparte, during his expedition to Egypt in 1798, even caused the preliminary works to be undertaken. His chief engineer surveyed the ground, but, owing to a serious miscalculation, threw great doubt on the possibility of carrying out the work. He estimated the level of the Red Sea to be nearly 33ft. higher than that of the Mediterranean, an idea that Leibnitz ridiculed nearly a century before. Vigorous protests against Lepère’s theory were not wanting, but it was, nevertheless, sufficient to cause the abandonment of the scheme until Monsieur Lesseps directed his attention to the matter. On his appointment as an Attaché to the French Mission, Lesseps had to undergo a lengthy quarantine at Alexandria; here he was supplied with books by his Consul, among them being Lepère’s memoirs respecting the scheme for connecting the two seas, the effect of which upon the young Frenchman’s mind was never effaced.

In 1847 a Commission of Engineers demonstrated the inaccuracy of Lepère’s observations, and proved that the level of the two seas was practically the same. In 1854 Lesseps having matured his plan laid it before the Viceroy, who determined to carry it out. Palmerston, then premier, did his utmost, from political motives, to thwart the enterprise; but early in 1856 permission was given to commence the work.

Considerable difficulty was experienced in raising the capital, but on the 25th April, 1858, operations were actually begun. The Viceroy undertook to pay many of the current expenses, and provided 25,000 workmen, who were to be paid and fed by the Company at an inexpensive rate, and were to be relieved every three months. In order to provide these men with water 4,000 casks suitable for being carried on camels had to be made, and 1,600 of these animals were daily employed in bringing supplies, at a cost of £320 per day.

At the end of December, 1863, the Fresh Water Canal was completed, by which the Company was relieved of the enormous expense of supplying the workmen with water.

On the 18th March, 1869, the water of the Mediterranean was allowed to flow into the nearly dry salt-incrusted basins of the Bitter Lakes, some parts of which lay forty feet below the level of the Mediterranean, while others required extensive dredging operations. The Bitter Lakes have been identified with the Marah of the Bible (Exodus xv., 23—“And when they came to Marah, they could not drink of the waters of Marah for they were bitter”). The captain of our vessel informed me that in these lakes the saltness, and consequently the density, of the water is such as to cause the vessel to rise five inches above the ordinary waterline.

The cost of constructing the Canal amounted to about £19,000,000, more than a third of which was contributed by the Khedive. The original capital of the company in 400,000 shares amounted to £8,000,000, the difference being raised by loans payable at fixed intervals, and adding an annual burden to the scheme of £451,000. The festivities connected with the opening of the Canal in 1869 cost the Khedive—that is to say the taxpayer of Egypt—£14,200,000, or more than half the total capital!

The great mercantile importance of the Canal is apparent from the following data:—Between London and Bombay forty-four per cent. of the distance is saved by through-going ships; between London and Hong Kong twenty-eight per cent., and between Marseilles and Bombay fifty-nine per cent. Over eighty per cent. of the trade passing through the Canal is done in British vessels, and in 1875—or six years after the Canal was opened—the English traffic was equal to twelve times that of the French.

In 1870, 486 steamers, representing 493,911 tons, passed through the canal, and in 1882 these figures had risen to 3,198 steamers with 7,125,000 tons. (Baedeker).

From Port Saïd the Canal runs in a nearly straight line to Kantara (a mere group of sheds), its course lying across the shallow lagoon-like Lake Menzaleh, which has an average depth of only three feet. The embankments are low, irregular sand-banks, formed of the dredged material, and having at the margin of the water a coarse growth of straggling sedgy-looking vegetation. After passing Kantara, the Balah Lakes are reached, and the course is marked out in their open surface by a double line of buoys. Then the most difficult portion of the original work is reached—viz., the cutting of El Guisr, which is six miles long, the depth from ground-level to surface of water being about forty-five feet. This is by far the highest land in the Isthmus. Leaving the El Guisr cutting, the open waters of Lake Timsah, (Crocodile Lake) are reached, and far away across its blue mirror-like surface stretches the double line of buoys, marking out the track. On the northern shore of the lake, buried in a delightful mass of vegetation, lies the French town of Ismailïa, once the great centre from which operations during the construction of the Canal were conducted, and now one of the principal stations whence its navigation is controlled by means of telegraph. Lake Timsah has an area of some six or seven square miles, and the huge fleet of war vessels, transports, and tenders which Lord Wolseley used as a base for his operations in the late campaign lay there without difficulty. From Lake Timsah the Suez Canal holds a roughly parallel course with the Freshwater Canal and the Suez line of railway, and passes through a long cutting into the Bitter Lakes, an extremely tame and uninteresting sheet of water some fifteen miles long, with flat, low, sandy banks, and thence into another long cutting—some twenty-six feet deep at Shalouf—after which the flat sandy plains of Suez are traversed, and the head of the gulf reached.

The impression is general that the Suez Canal is cut through immense deposits of sand, or sand and water, but this is quite erroneous. The desert, it is true, is sandy and sterile, but the sand is quite superficial, covering a gypseous clay, not at all difficult to work in. From Balah to the Bitter Lakes there is fine muddy sand, with clay at intervals, and at Serapeum a rocky barrier. From the Bitter Lakes to Suez, however, there is a good clay, with limestone at Shalouf. The sinuosities in the Canal are such as to render the passage of vessels over 400 feet long somewhat difficult. It was expected that these curves would prevent the washing away of the banks, but it is doubtful whether they have at all contributed to the preservation of the sandy embankments. Indeed, most of the predictions of the early destruction of the Canal by the operation of natural causes have been proved to be as ill-founded as such predictions generally are. The banks have no ill-regulated propensity for crumbling away. The Canal is not in perpetual and imminent danger of being silted-up. The enormous and costly dredging operations that were to swallow more than the revenue of the undertaking are unknown, and the sole matter for regret is that the Canal was not made as wide again as it is, for the accommodation of the vast traffic it has created. Among the many confident prophesies made by professional engineers of the day, one stands recorded in the technical papers to the effect that every vessel must necessarily be towed through the Canal, the explanation being that the regulation speed of five miles per hour was not sufficient to afford steering “way”; hence, said the prophet, the slightest wind across the line of the Canal must infallibly blow ashore any vessel whose commander should have the temerity to attempt to steam between the two seas. Experience, however, has shown that the largest vessels are under perfect command when propelled by their own engines.

It is impossible for anyone to pass through the Canal without being impressed with the urgent necessity for vastly increased accommodation for the constantly augmenting traffic. The delays occasioned by the difficulties in coaling, the blocks in the Canal—caused sometimes by the enormous traffic, and sometimes by the sinking of a ship across the narrow channel—are most vexatious. No less than five days elapsed between the time of the arrival of our steamer at Port Saïd and of its departure from Suez, a distance of less than one hundred miles.

In every way it is most unfortunate for English commerce that—thanks to the mulish obstinacy of Lord Palmerston—the management of the Canal should have been thrown into the hands of Frenchmen; for, while according the highest meed of praise to M. de Lesseps for his genius, tenacity of purpose, and energy, in designing and carrying out such a vast undertaking in the teeth of obstacles which would have daunted most men, it is impossible to ignore the fact that, as compared with English traffic-managers, the French officials responsible for the working of the Canal are vastly inferior in capacity. The spirit of officialism as displayed by a liberal use of red tape, and a certain non-elasticity in carrying out the laws, so familiar to all travellers in France, exists in an intensified form in the local management of the Canal. To the ordinary traveller through the Canal, for example, it seems absurd that vessels should be stopped for the night while some hours of light remain, yet as soon as the sun goes down no further advance can be made. Again, although daylight comes long before sunrise, it is forbidden to move till the sun is up. Then again, experience shows that by the use of the electric light the largest vessels can be handled with the utmost ease. An electric light fixed in the foremast of a ship sweeps the Canal from bank to bank, and for all practical purposes gives a light equal to that of day; it seems strange, therefore, that vessels possessing such appliances should not be permitted to proceed during the night. If one ventures to make such a suggestion to a Canal official, he at once replies that the rules laid down for the regulation of the traffic forbid night passages, and if one further ventures to remind him that the said rules were made before the introduction of electric lighting, he shrugs his shoulders and plainly intimates that you have tried his patience long enough.

A little delegation of authority from the chief office to the pilot or other Canal official on board the ships would at once result in a vast diminution of delay, and consequently in an increase to the capability of the Canal, but the genius of French administration appears to be opposed to the granting of any latitude or freedom of action to inferior officials, and so in the administration of the Canal everything is done by the official at the chief office in Ismailïa, who transmits his orders by telegraph.

But, after all the practicable improvements in the navigation of the present Canal have been made, the necessity for a new one will be no less urgent, and it is especially unfortunate that the Conservative party should have made negotiations with M. de Lesseps so difficult by openly suggesting that we should use our accidental supremacy in Egypt to advance the national interests, without regard to the rights possessed by him. Whatever the actual status of M. de Lesseps, under his concession, may be, it is clear that he has always considered he had a monopoly. At the outset he endeavoured to enlist British sympathy and capital in his undertaking by demonstrating that the bulk of the traffic must necessarily come from English sources. Was it probable, therefore, he would have spent the Company’s capital in making the Canal if, after having demonstrated its success, an English company were at liberty to make another, alongside, and take away four-fifths of its traffic?

In business matters the French are proverbially short-sighted. They fail to see that “three sixpences are better than one shilling,” and are consequently unwilling to surrender present advantages without an absolute certainty of an early and great benefit arising from their doing so. They are much more truly a nation of retailers or shopkeepers than the English are, notwithstanding Napoleon’s famous epithet. What is wanted is a greater breadth of view in the administration of the Canal, and it is in this respect that it is particularly unfortunate there is not a larger English representation on the Board of Management. If we had a representation equal to our share of the capital, the result would soon be apparent in the adoption of a line of policy giving the utmost facilities to the Canal’s customers, to the great advantage of both.

The recent discussions upon the Suez Canal question cannot fail to be of the greatest use to the Government when they reopen negotiations with M. de Lesseps, and if the latter finds it impossible to make another canal without a further concession of land, he may probably think it advisable to conciliate his partner and chief customer by making greater concessions in return for the influence of the British Government with that of the Khedive and the Sultan on his behalf.

But even if no further advantages for British commerce be obtained from the Canal Company, this country occupies a unique position as regards communication with the East. In less than fifteen years the whole of the original cost of the British shares, both principal and interest, will have been paid out of profits, and the Chancellor of the Exchequer of the day will have to decide as to the destination of the revenue which the shares produce. It appears to me that, after making provision for the necessary expenses attending the administration of the property, it would be both just and politic to return the balance to the owners of the ships whose use of the Canal has been the means of creating the revenue. If this course be adopted British commerce will be immensely benefited, for our ships will be able to use the Canal at a little more than half the expense falling upon those of other nations, and this great advantage will have been obtained without having cost the British taxpayer a single penny. The money will simply be returned into the hands which contributed it, and the proposal, therefore, does not in any way partake of the character of a bounty.

What is known as the Dual Control was established in 1879. By it the British and French Controllers-General were invested with considerable powers over the administration of the finances, in addition to which the Khedive undertook to assign a certain portion of the revenue for the discharge of the national obligations.

In the following year a Law of Liquidation, as drawn up by the Commissioners appointed for the purpose, was issued with the agreement of all the interested European Powers.

In return for these concessions, the Foreign Bondholders made a compromise with the Egyptian Government involving the surrender of a considerable portion of their claims. This settlement, while relieving the country from an enormous burden, placed it in a position to meet its liabilities and to progress in the development of its resources, and, in the language of Lord Granville in his despatch to Lord Dufferin, “it was undoubtedly working well for the material prosperity of the country, and promised to do so for the future;” and in a subsequent despatch the Foreign Secretary declared that, through the action of the Control, great advantages had been secured for the natives, such as “the spread of education, the abolition of vexatious taxation, the establishment of the land-tax on a regular and equitable basis, and the diminution of forced labour.”

Our dragoman, an intelligent Copt, fully corroborated Lord Granville’s statement. He said that all that the Egyptian people required was moderate taxation, certainty as to its amount and as to the time of its collection, and such a military law as would relieve them from the press-gang. He further said that before the institution of the Control, whenever the Khedive wanted a new ironclad, or a new palace, or half a dozen additional inmates for his harem, he ordered a new tax to be levied; this tax was sold to some of the rapacious pachas about the Palace, and resold by them to professional tax-gatherers. These wretches committed the greatest atrocities upon the miserable fellaheen, exacting the uttermost farthing under the threat, and often the actual application, of torture; “but now,” said my informant, “although the taxes are heavy, their amount is known, and they are collected in coin after the harvest has been gathered.”

The country was becoming very prosperous, and there was a surplus in the Treasury when, in February, 1881, a military riot broke out, originating in the arrest of certain Egyptian officers, among whom was the Colonel of the 1st Regiment. The officers of this regiment broke into the Council Room of the Ministry of War, ill-treated the Minister, and then, having released the prisoners, proceeded to the Khedive’s Palace, followed by the men of the regiment. In menacing tones they demanded the dismissal of the Minister of War, and redress for their grievances. Arabi Bey was one of the chief actors in this revolt. The Khedive was compelled to submit, the mutinous colonels were reinstated, and tranquillity was restored for the time.

The army officers were not long, however, in showing what their principal object was, for in a few weeks after the revolt, decrees were issued increasing the pay of the army and navy to the extent of nearly £60,000 a year. The Controllers-General had now become aware that everything was at the disposal of the military party, and that the Minister could not guarantee that the officers would not next day insist upon fresh financial concessions. The next demand made by the colonels was that nominations to vacant posts in regiments should rest with them, and this was granted. The object of all this was clear enough—indeed, Arabi declared at one of the meetings of the Commission that “he would not yield unconditional obedience to the War Minister.” As time went on fresh symptoms of disaffection broke out, all indicating the determination of the military party to throw off all control and restraint. In September the Ministry was dismissed at the instance of these same men, who throughout the remainder of the year continued a harassing series of turbulent outbreaks, gradually increasing in audacity, and more and more trenching upon matters of administration. They went so far as to demand an increase in the army, involving an annual addition to the estimates of £280,000, although the Controllers declared that not nearly half that amount was available.

The principal figure in all these outbreaks was Arabi, who steadily kept himself at the head of the disaffected party, and gradually increased his influence. After being appointed Under Secretary of War, then Chief Secretary, he was described by Sir E. Malet as having become “Arbiter of the destinies of the country.” In March he was made Pasha, and the Khedive was compelled to assent to a number of promotions by Arabi, who insisted on dispensing with the examination required by law for officers. In a word, the real power had become vested in the chiefs of the military party, and the objects of those chiefs were showing themselves more and more evidently to be, increase of the army, increase of pay and promotion of a large number of officers to high military rank—the desire of all such men in every country of the world.

In the following month Arabi caused numerous arrests to be made among the officers and soldiery in consequence of an alleged conspiracy to murder him. Among the prisoners was the Minister of War, who had been dismissed at the demand of the mutinous regiments in the previous February. The prisoners were tried by a court-martial—irregularly constituted—and the proceedings were kept secret, while no counsel were allowed for the defence. It was generally believed that torture had been used to extort confession. Forty officers were condemned to exile for life to the farthest limits of the Soudan. The Khedive, with great courage, refused to sanction the sentence, and issued a decree commuting it to simple banishment from Egypt.

In the meantime the excitement continued to increase, and the Governments of France and England decided to send a naval force to Alexandria for the protection of the interests of their subjects in Egypt. The combined fleet arrived at Alexandria on the 20th of May. On June 11th the great riot and massacre of Europeans took place, Arabi in the meanwhile erecting new earthworks and strengthening the forts, in spite of his repeated assurances to the contrary. On July 11th, the French fleet having withdrawn, and twenty-four hours’ notice having expired, Admiral Seymour opened fire on the forts, and after a few hours completely silenced them; not, however, without his ships having suffered considerably in the encounter.

The above is a sketch of Arabi’s career from the time of his first coming into public notice to the time when he became Dictator. He was at no pains to conceal his character as a military adventurer, and every successive step in his career proves him to have been no other. It is true that during the last few weeks he appeared to carry the country with him, which, however, is not difficult to account for, seeing that he was “master of the legions,” and that detachments of the army had been sent out into the highways and byways to compel men to come in at the point of the bayonet. In ordinary times it is no uncommon thing to see a chain-gang going through the streets of Egyptian towns composed, not of criminals, but of unhappy wretches brought in by the press-gang for service in the army, and should any of them falter in their steps through weariness or despair, the heavy stick of the driver is always ready to descend upon their shoulders. The only effect of the success of the movement headed by Arabi would have been the perpetuation and extension of this terrible state of things; and yet this is the man who has been persistently held up to the admiration of the world as a pure-minded patriot by a large section of what is called the Peace Party in England. In the towns Arabi and his agents worked upon the cupidity of the lower orders by telling them that he intended to drive the foreigners into the sea, and that their property should be given over to a general loot. In the country districts, where the fellaheen are ground down under the heel of the usurer—always a foreigner, as the Koran forbids usury—Arabi promised to cancel the village debts, and banish the usurers; [259a] while in Upper Egypt, where usury is less common, he appealed to Mohammedan fanaticism. But nowhere did he appeal to a national sentiment, [259b] until, indeed, by various devices, he had become absolute master of the country, when perhaps he thought he might say L’Etat, c’est moi.

CHAPTER XIV.

A wretched journey of over eight hours by rail brought us to Alexandria shortly before midnight. A fierce gale with rain prevailed during most of the journey, and owing to the dilapidated condition of the carriage, waterproofs were necessary to protect us from the rain, which, in spite of closed windows, found access to every part of the compartment. The line itself and the whole of the rolling stock, were in a miserable condition of disrepair, and utterly unfit for traffic.

The drive from the railway station to the Hotel Abbat gave us our first glimpse of the ruin wrought by the rioters. The raging storm and drenching sleet were singularly in accord with the scene of desolation and misery on every hand. After the long and cold railway journey, and the drive in the open vehicle from the station, we were in hopes of finding comfortable quarters in the hotel, but the wretchedness prevailing outside seemed to have penetrated into every corner of the establishment. It was impossible to get anything hot to eat, and the cold meats were most uninviting. The proprietor, expecting another train in about an hour, deferred serving even this cold cheer until its arrival. Meanwhile nothing remained for us but to try to warm ourselves by pacing up and down the scantily-furnished salle a manger.

We were glad to get to bed notwithstanding that the carpets in the bedrooms were flapping in the wind in the most vigorous manner during the night.

On rising next morning we found the storm had not abated, indeed it continued with undiminished fury during the whole of our stay. Our time, however, being limited, it was necessary to disregard the weather in order to visit the scene of the recent operations and the ruins of the city. On leaving the hotel our dragoman of three years ago, Kalifa, at once recognised us, and under his guidance we made a tour of the fortresses, going first to Ras-el-Tin. We found the palace of that name, which forms the landward boundary of the fortress, still partially in ruins and apparently deserted. One could not help feeling that the architect, in selecting such a site for a royal residence, must have regarded the possibility of an attack upon the fort from the sea as being too remote to be taken into account. Some of the other forts had at one time stood isolated from the town, but apparently it might be said of the Alexandrians that

“Exceeding peace had made them bold,”

for the approaches to the forts had gradually been built upon until at length some of the houses were even erected against the fortifications. These were the houses which were destroyed during the bombardment, and the ruin of which gave rise to the impression that the city itself had been shelled. All the forts presented the same dismal aspect of ruin. Shattered ramparts, battered casemates, huge holes in the walls of the store-houses; the heavy Armstrong guns dismantled, some with the muzzle pointed high up in the air, others lying on the ground; in all cases the gun-carriages smashed and crushed into shapelessness; burst shells, and heaps of stones and mortar lying everywhere; great deep pits in the ground, showing where an “Inflexible” shell had burst. The buildings and ramparts are of loosely-built stonework, hence wherever a shell struck, it told with full and destructive effect. Here and there one could see that a single shell had penetrated a rampart, scattered the earth, upheaved a heavy Armstrong, and enveloped a casemate in a heap of demolished masonry. In Fort Aïda an explosion, which wrecked the whole place, occurred early in the action. In the whole of the forts there were Armstrong guns of great calibre and of modern date. Their appearance after the bombardment was most extraordinary: pieces knocked out of the muzzles, huge slabs sheared out of their sides, and in many cases the coils pitted with shot marks. In most places, and at Fort Meks in particular, the muzzles were burst, but this was the work of the landing parties shortly after the action. There can be no question that the armament of these forts was of a very formidable character, and that the condition of the fleet after the encounter might have been a very serious one had the guns throughout been well handled.

After leaving the Forts we went with a friend, long resident in Alexandria, to Ramleh, the fashionable suburb of the city. The word Ramleh means “sand,” and that being so it may be said that no place was ever more appropriately named. It is a mere sand waste by the shore, and its villas are separated by sand wastes. The effect is somewhat Australian, and the use of verandahs and Venetian shutters helps the suggestion. Our friend’s house was close to what is known as Gun Hill, that is, where the 40-pounders were, and from his Egyptian roof he could see Arabi’s advanced position and the whole of the British camp. At 4 p.m. every day it was the custom to go and see the practice from Gun Hill. Mr. A.’s house was open during the whole time, and he told us it was for the most part more like a picnic than a campaign. The officers, however, were frequently called from his billiard table by an alarm from the camp, and on such occasions Mr. A. had an understanding with them that should the English be driven in they were to warn him when retreating past his house by firing a volley through his windows! There were of course times of great anxiety notwithstanding the excitement and interest.

Mr. A. was in Alexandria during the massacre, and at the time of the bombardment he was only away two days, being the first to return to his house and live in it. While there, many of the neighbouring houses were looted. His description of the daily shooting of looters reminded one of the accounts of the latter days of the Paris Commune. Mr. A.’s garden is ornamented with heavy English shells, which, he tells his visitors, fell there—from a cart!

During the afternoon we had a stroll through the European quarter of the city, and were amazed at the destruction to be seen on every hand. The rows of fine houses, the shops, the buildings of the Grand Square, the Place Mohammed Ali, with its gardens, all a mass of unsightly ruins, from which workmen were getting out the stones and stacking them up in long rows on the footways. We had been pretty familiar with Alexandria, but in the maze of ruined stonework we were completely at a loss and could not find our way. Kalifa, however, came to our assistance, and guided by him we took a drive through the native quarter, and soon perceived that, though the destruction by incendiarism was unfortunately greatest in the European quarter, the petroleurs had not spared their fellows, for many native houses were burned. The extent to which property was destroyed is incredible. There must be several miles of streets in the sheerest ruin. The poor shopkeepers of the Place Mohammed Ali now occupy temporary wooden shanties, and the general aspect of this once gay and opulent quarter is wretched in the extreme.

We next day paid a visit to Fort Meks, but except that its armament was somewhat heavier than that of its fellows, there were no new features to be seen. The same desolate appearance of ruin and destruction—crippled gun-carriages, burst guns, crumbling ramparts, and shell-ploughed ground. This fort, from the accuracy of its gun practice, was the most troublesome to the fleet. The five terrible “Armstrongs,” however, lay burst and useless in the sand drifts, with the rude and forgotten graves of the poor gunners round about them.

A flood of misplaced eloquence has been expended in denouncing the conduct of the British Government for having “bombarded and utterly destroyed a defenceless commercial city,” and the statement has been repeated so often as to be believed by many; but I will venture to say that no one will for one moment believe it who has had the opportunity, as I have, of being conducted over the city and the fortifications by an intelligent gentleman, an old resident, who was present during the whole of the operations, and who emphatically denies that the bombardment of the forts caused any greater damage than I have described. The charge has come mainly from the advocates of peace; but it is a misfortune that such a sacred cause should be damaged by gross exaggerations, and by statements which it is impossible to sustain. The cause of peace, like the temperance cause, has suffered greatly by this habit of exaggeration.

At the table d’hote I sat by an English officer who had been in the thick of the fight at Kassassin, and who had escaped unhurt; he did not seem inclined to say much about his experiences on that terrible day, but he entertained a great respect for the fighting capacity of the Egyptian soldier when properly led.

During the whole of our stay in Alexandria the weather continued to be extremely boisterous and very cold, and we were glad to get on board the P. and O. steamer for Brindisi. Some Anglo-Indians joined the vessel here, and we had an opportunity of observing the way in which some of our countrymen treat native races.

A crowd of Arabs in boats were alongside, offering their wares to the passengers as they stepped up the side of the ship. Amongst the rest there was a man with his little daughter offering raw eggs, beads, shells, etc. Two of the Anglo-Indians having bought a dozen of the eggs, and having stationed themselves in a convenient position on deck, proceeded to pelt the poor trader, completely spoiling his stock, and covering him and his child with the contents of the missiles. During the voyage these fellows also behaved in a brutal manner towards the native stewards on board. It is not to be wondered at that men like these object to judicial powers over Europeans being extended to natives, for it is probable that under the operation of the Ilbert Bill they would stand a fair chance of getting what they do not want—viz., justice. It is not difficult to imagine how such men would act towards the natives if they were a thousand miles away from a court having jurisdiction in cases of violence on the part of Europeans against natives.

Stay-at-home folks in England usually think of the Mediterranean as being calm as a lake, bathed in sunlight, and blue as the famous grotto in the Island of Capri; but such has not been my experience on the three occasions upon which I have traversed its length.

Once, however, as we were leaving Alexandria, a very beautiful phenomenon presented itself. The waters of the harbour were of a dead pale sea-green while outside the bar the Mediterranean was of an intense, opalescent, turquoise-blue, so exquisitely beautiful that the attention of the whole ship’s company was directed upon it. We presently crossed the bar and dipped right into this extraordinary colour. The line of demarcation was clear and sharp, and lay just outside the harbour.

On reaching the open sea we encountered a furious gale, which continued with varying intensity until our arrival off Brindisi four days afterwards—twenty-four hours after time. The sea, which had been running high during the whole voyage, made a clean breach of the bridge on the last evening, necessitating the bringing of the vessel’s head to the wind and “lying-to” for the night.

On arrival off the entrance to the harbour no pilot was forthcoming, and it began to be whispered that we should not be permitted to land without undergoing quarantine; but happily our fears proved to be groundless, and the captain having run up a signal informing the port authorities of his intention to go in without a pilot, we were soon alongside, and on European soil once again.

THE END.

INDEX.

Albatross, The	[27] @115}
America (see also United States)	[135]–[178]
America—Journey across from San Francisco	[147]
Albany	[164]
— Schools at	[165]
Alkali Plains, The	[155]
American Language	[165]
André, Major	[167]
Appetising Mottoes and Sentiments	[160]
Arnold, General	[167]
Bill of Fare, A Curious	[160]
Blue Gum, The (illus)	[148]
Brigham Young’s Dominions	[155]
Bright, John	[151]
Boats	[165]
Bogus Ticket Sellers, Beware of	[157]
Buildings, Block of, Removed Bodily	[161]
Bull Frogs	[149]
Buttes, The	[158]
Cañons	[152], [157]
Cape Horn	[152]
Catskill Mountains	[165]
Chicago	[160], [161]
— Fires in	[161]
— Streets in, Equal to Best in London	[161]
— Timber Houses still Numerous	[161]
— Water Supply for	[161]
Churches, Opposition	[167]
Corinné	[155]
Corn over Ten Feet High	[147]
— without Manure	[147]
Country like a Park	[147]
Cow-Catcher, The	[154]
Crash, A Tremendous	[152]
Descent of 8,000 feet	[159]
Detroit	[162]
Devil’s Slide, The (illus)	[159]
Dining Car, A Well-appointed	[160]
Dollar will Go a Long Way	[168]
Elevation, Greatest Attained	[152]
English Gold Refused	[157]
Eschscholtzias growing wild	[147]
Eucalyptus, The (illus)	[148]
Falls River	[164]
Fields Hundreds of Acres in extent	[147]
Fires in Chicago	[161]
Flowers, Immense patches of	[147]
Free Country	[169]
Gold-Diggings reworked by Chinese	[149]
— Track through	[148]
Gum Tree, The (illus)	[148]
Hotel, The Grand Pacific, Chicago	[162]
Hudson River	[165], [167]
Identification a Difficult Task	[161]
I guess I’ll take your Gold	[157]
Indians, Dreadful looking	[149]
— on the War-Path	[152]
John Scales, Justice of the Peace (illus)	[168]
Justice, A Dealer in	[168]
Lake Ontario	[164]
Language, American	[164]
Life on the Road, A New Feature of	[161]
Lupins growing wild	[147]
Marigolds, Patches of	[147]
Military Academy, West Point	[167]
Mineral Wealth, Untold	[148]
Money-Lender complains	[148]
Monument Rock (illus)	[158]
Mormon Advice	[154]
— Tabernacle Visited	[157]
— Wives lack Cordiality	[156]
Narrow Escape	[151]
Night Attack on Indians	[153]
Ogden	[156], [157]
Omaha	[160]
Pacific Railroad, A Single Track	[151]
Pallisades, The, Hudson River (illus)	[166]
Passport Found Useful	[161]
Pine Forests	[149]
Poultry Secured by the Leg	[169]
Pullman Train, Life on Board	[149]
Railway Covered with Sheds	[152]
— on Trestles	[157]
— Open to Prairie	[154]
— Ride, a splendid one	[177]
Red Sandstone Rocks	[158]
Ride, A Long (Omaha to Chicago)	[160]
Rip van Winkle	[165]
River Boats	[165]
— Hudson	[165], [167]
Rome	[164]
Sacramento Valley	[147]
Saints, Cruel Treatment by the	[153]
Salt Lake City Beautifully Situated	[156]
— (illus)	[155]
Sambo said “No Sah!”	[159]
Schools, National, at Albany	[165]
Snow Mountains	[149]
— Travelling through	[157]
Soil Twenty Feet Deep	[147]
Steamers on the Rivers	[165]
Streets in Chicago Equal to Best in London	[161]
Sulphur Spring	[157]
Syracuse	[164]
Taurus Meets the Train	[154]
Tennyson Claimed as an American Author	[165]
Timber Houses still Numerous in Chicago	[161]
Train, The Last Over	[152]
— The, Met by Taurus	[154]
Trapper’s Story, The	[153]
Turning Point between East and West	[152]
Utica	[164]
Water Supply for Chicago	[161]
West Point, on the Hudson	[167]
Witches, The	[158]
American Grievance	[128]
— Passengers from Honolulu	[127]
Americans not good Sailors	[127]
Ascension, Island of (illus)	[17]
Auckland	[115]
Avoca (illus)	[67]
Woolgrowers	[67]
Australian Colonies (see also Melbourne, Sydney, Victoria, Tasmania, New South Wales)	[101]
Agricultural Labour, A Fine Field for	[111]
Artisans, Skilled	[110]
Australia, People of, Described	[112]
— Young	[111]
Climate Exhausting	[110]
Ornithorhynchus paradoxus (illus)	[112]
Drought, A Ten Months’	[113]
Education Amply Provided for	[111]
Emigrate, Who should	[110]
Free Trade	[101]
Labour Market, State of	[101]
— Unskilled, A Fine Field for	[111]
Mining Machinery, Perfection of	[107]
Platypus, The Duck-billed (illus)	[112]
Population	[120]
— Surplus, Great Field for	[110]
Postal Arrangements	[111]
Protection	[101]
Railways	[111]
Rent of Houses Enormously Dear	[110]
Schools, First-rate	[111]
Telegraphs	[111]
Wages Higher, but Most Things Dearer, than in England	[110]
Baby Hippopotamus at Play (illus)	[21]
Ballarat	[48]
Botanical Gardens	[49]
Gold Mine	[48]
— (illus)	[49]
— Smallness of	[49]
Gold Raised	[49]
Lake Wendouree	[49]
Bananas	[127]
Bay of Biscay	[5]
Betting on Board Ship	[26]
Boat in a Squall off Plymouth	[2]
Brandy or Whisky?	[131]
Brummagem Shams, where manufactured	[13]
Burial at Sea	[131]
Burying the Dead Horse (illus)	[21]
Campbell Town	[74]
Our Waiter at (illus)	[79]
Canada	[162]
American Customs Officer’s Equipment	[164]
Clifton House, Niagara	[162]
Desecration, Ruthless	[163]
Green Fields like those at Home	[162]
Great Western Railway	[162]
London	[162]
Niagara, Impressions of	[164]
Paris	[162]
Photographers	[163]
Salary, Must Raise, I Guess	[164]
Suspension Bridge at Niagara, Crossing	[164]
Centipedes, A Plague of	[127]
Chair, Taking the	[129]
Coral Reefs	[116], [118]
Day Dropped	[119]
Day Gained	[119]
Duel, Rumours of	[121]
Educated in Four Colleges	[130]
Egypt	[181]–[268]
Abaid	[197]
Abbaseyeh Palace	[216]
Abbas Pasha	[216]
Abraham or Isaac, Old Fellow like	[191]
Aden, a Dreadful Place	[239]
— Importance of	[239]
Adenese Women (illus)	[240]
Agricultural Operations	[223]
Agriculture à la Adam	[188]
Alexandria	[260]
— in Ruins	[264]
— not Bombarded	[265]
— the Forts after Bombardment	[262]
Anglo-Indians	[266]
Apis Mausoleum, The	[203]
Arab, A Discerning	[232]
— An, Hanged	[228]
— School in Syria	[211]
Arabi, Appointed Under Secretary of War	[256]
— at Colombo	[238]
— Bey	[255]
— Causes Numerous Arrests	[257]
— Erects New Earth-works	[258]
— How he Recruited his Army	[258]
— Made Pasha	[257]
— Military Adventurer	[258]
— Moved in a singular way	[239]
— Principal Figure in Outbreaks	[256]
— Visit to	[238]
Arabi’s Personal Appearance	[239]
Arabs, Bedouin	[183]
— How Kept in Order	[181]
— Picturesque Party of	[181]
Au Revoir (illus)	[225]
Backsheesh	[185], [190], [195], [197], [198], [207], [210], [218], [224], [228], [241], [243]
— not demanded	[210]
Balah, Lake of	[245], [248]
Bazaars, In the	[190]
Bedrashên	[201]
Beggars	[195]
Bellows, not made in Birmingham	[191]
Bery cheap, sah! (illus)	[191]
Bethshemish (Heliopolis)	[220]
Biblical Allusions, How to Understand	[185]
Biograph, A Graphic	[206]
Bitter Lakes, The, Identified with Marah	[246]
— Saltness of	[247]
Black Guard, A	[242]
Blacking a Boy’s Bare Feet	[186]
Blue Jackets, Look at our de-ah	[237]
Blue Ribbon Army	[233]
Boat or Dahabieh	[215]
Boats, How Propelled	[181]
Bohemiennes	[228]
Bonaparte, Attempts to Reopen Suez Canal	[245]
Bond-holders, Foreign	[254]
Bridal Party, A	[192]
Brindisi	[267]
British Canal Shares Profitable	[253]
— Mission, Schools at	[211]
Bûlak, A Street in (illus)	[219]
— Suburb of Cairo	[220]
Bull, The Sacred	[203]
Burying-ground	[202]
Cairo	[187], [188], [242]
— Sanitary Condition of, Shocking	[244]
— Trades of	[188]
— Visit to, by Train	[184]
Camelcade, A (illus)	[208]
Camelcades	[207]
Camels, Strings of	[207]
Carriages, Ladies’	[212]
Casinos	[228]
Cemetery, An Ancient	[202]
Cetewayo, alias The Carrib	[229], [234]
— Disguised as a Gentleman (illus)	[235], [236]
Cheops, Great Pyramid of	[197]
Children, Naked	[208]
Christian, I am a	[218]
Citadel, The	[194]
City, A great	[202]
Civ-il, One must be	[236]
Colombo	[238]
Colonels, The, Make further Demands	[256]
Concert, A Pleasant, Looked Forward to	[228]
Cook and Son	[241]
— Name of, a Talisman	[241]
Coptic Guide offered a Commission	[190]
Coral Necklaces	[227]
Cotter, Lieutenant	[229]
Court Martial, Irregular	[257]
Crocodile	[206]
— A dead	[216]
— Lake	[248]
Crowd, A Motley	[181]
Custom-house Examination	[182]
— occupied by English Artillerymen	[227], [229]
Dahabieh or Nile boat	[215]
Dancers and Howlers	[210]
Dervishes, The, Dancing and Howling	[209]
— The, Supported by Government Endowment	[210]
Desert, Prayers in the (illus)	[209]
Devils, Familiar	[195]
Donkey Boy, An Egyptian (illus)	[184]
— My Donkey, good sah	[184]
Donkey Ride	[183]
— across the Nile	[215]
Donkeys for Nine	[183]
— Homeward Bound	[216]
— Names of	[183]
— Universal Use of	[214]
Dragoman (illus)	[182]
Drive to Heliopolis	[216]
Dual Control, The	[254]
Dutch Hotel occupied by Royal Marines	[228]
Egg-hatching Establishment	[194]
Eggs, she only steals the Eggs now	[212]
Egypt, British Occupation of, how Beneficial	[244]
— by whom Disliked	[244]
Egyptian Character, Saddest Side of	[220]
— People, Requirements of	[255]
Electric Light, The,	[231]
El Guisr, The Cutting of	[248]
Embroidery	[190]
End, The (illus)	[268]
Englishman perfidious	[240]
English Representation on Board of Management of Suez Canal not large enough	[252]
Ethiopia shall yet Stretch Forth her Hand	[185]
European Buildings, Few	[183]
Exclusiveness, British	[242]
Excursion, A delightful	[208]
Ezbekiyeh Public Gardens	[244]
Face, A Familiar (illus)	[261]
Fair-day, A	[222]
Fakir, A Holy (illus)	[220], [222]
Fehmi Pasha	[239]
Fellaheen, The, ground down	[259]
Fort Aïda	[263]
— Meks	[263], [265]
— Gemileh	[229]
French, A Nation of Retailers	[252]
— Fleet, The, Withdraws	[258]
— The, outwitted	[240]
Fresh-water Canal completed	[246]
Friday, the Mohammedan Sabbath	[209]
Gamblers on Board Ship	[235]
Gentlemen of the Long Robe	[227]
Gizeh, Pyramids of	[195]
— Station	[201]
Goshen, Land of	[244]
— Land of, preferred	[244]
Governor, A ’cute	[239]
Graphic Biograph, A	[206]
Graveyard at Tel-el-Kebir	[243]
Greek Money-changer	[226]
Gun Hill	[263]
Hassan	[182], [184], [241]
— Sultan	[192]
— Disguised as a Pilgrim	[192]
— How he Recovered his Throne	[194]
Heliopolis (Bethshemish)	[220]
— Drive to	[216]
Hens, Laziness of	[194]
Hippopotamus	[206]
Homes, Everlasting	[207]
Home to Vote	[225]
Hostelries	[207]
Hotel Abbat	[260]
Howlers and Dancers	[210]
Insects something Maddening	[230]
Irrigation	[223]
— Method of, Described	[188]
Ismailïa	[186], [248]
Jewellers	[191]
— Weighing for	[191]
Joseph and Mary’s Tree	[218]
Kantara	[247]
Khalifs, The Tombs of the (illus)	[218]
Khedive’s Gardens, The	[215]
Khedive, The	[208], [212]
— The, Compelled to submit	[255]
Koran, The, in Competition with Threepenny Pieces	[189]
Labour, Forced, a Painful Sight	[187]
Lady, The Last Unmarried	[230]
Lake Menzaleh	[230], [247]
— Timsah	[248]
Lakes, The Bitter	[245], [249]
Law of Liquidation	[254]
Lepère’s Theory	[245]
— Proved Incorrect	[245]
Lesseps, M., Detained at Alexandria	[245]
— Matures his Theory	[246]
L’etat, c’est moi	[259]
Leviathan, Job’s Reference to	[207]
Lucullus	[259]
Lily, Painting the	[186]
Luggage, A Lady’s	[184]
— How Treated	[181]
Mameluke Dynasty, The Last of	[218]
Mamelukes, Massacre of	[194]
Manufacturing Quarter	[191]
Mariette exhumes the Serapeum	[203]
Marines	[229]
— as Police	[230]
Mausoleum, The Apis	[203]
Mecca Pilgrims, Rendezvous of	[216]
Mediterranean, The	[267]
— Waters of, Flow into Bitter Lakes	[246], [248]
Member, Once a, always a Member	[234]
Memphis	[202]
— Ancient, Site of	[201]
— Little more than a Name	[202]
Menzaleh, Lake of	[245]
Military Riot	[255]
Mitrahineh (site of Ancient Memphis)	[201]
Mohammed Ali, Mosque of	[194]
Money-Changers’ Liberality	[227]
Monument, Most Ancient in the World	[202]
Mosque of Sultan Hassan, Visit to	[194]
— The, of Sultan Hassan (illus)	[193]
Mother, Son thrashes her only once a month	[212]
Mud, Great Difficulty in Making Canal	[230]
Museum, The National, for Egyptian Antiquities	[222]
Mutinous Conduct	[256]
Naval Force sent by France and England	[257]
— Arrival at Alexandria	[257]
Nap on Deck	[234]
Necropolis, Ancient	[202]
Nile-boat, A	[216]
Nile, The	[187]
— Valley of	[188]
— View on the (illus)	[198]
Nobleman, The Languishing	[184]
Noph (Memphis)	[202]
Nubians Reported to be Excellent Soldiers	[229]
Obelisk, The Oldest in Egypt	[218]
Octroi, or Town Tax	[216]
On (Heliopolis)	[220]
Orgies, Pious	[210]
Orient, The Steamship (illus)	[186]
— a Magnificent Steamship	[181]
Orphans, Venerable	[224]
Palmerston, Lord, thwarts Lesseps	[246]
Palms, Oranges, and Lemons	[218]
Patriarchal Group, A	[197]
Pebbles as Mementoes of Tel-el-Kebir	[243]
Peep, A (illus)	[190]
Penny, New, Refused	[185]
People, Vast Numbers with Nothing to do	[185]
Perim, Island of, how acquired	[239]
Pious Orgies	[210]
Police, The, Armed with Long Spikes	[216]
Port Saïd	[230], [247]
— a Dreadful Place to Live in	[230]
— Harbour	[231]
— Lighthouse	[231]
— Railway wanted to	[232]
Power vested in Military Party	[257]
Prayers in the Desert (illus)	[209]
Predictions, Ill-founded	[249]
President, The, of Red Ribbon Army	[235]
Pyramid, Ascending the Great (illus)	[196]
— The great Step	[202]
— The Oldest	[202]
Pyramids, Road to	[187]
— The	[216]
— The, First View of	[187]
Quarantine	[268]
Ramleh	[263]
Ramses II, Statue of	[202]
Ras-el-Tin	[261]
Red Tape	[250]
— Ribbon Army	[233]
Rendezvous of Mecca Pilgrims	[216]
Revoir, Au (illus)	[225]
Riot and Massacre of Europeans	[257]
Rotten Row of Cairo, The	[212]
Runners or Saïs, The (illus)	[212], [212]
Sabbath, the Mohammedan	[209]
Safes, obviously of English Manufacture	[191]
Saïs, The	[212]
Sacred Bull, Burying-place of	[203]
Sakkara, To	[201]
Sand, A good Preservative	[205]
Sarcophagus, A huge	[203]
School, An Arab, in Syria	[211]
— Interrupted	[189]
Schoolmaster’s, A, Disappointment	[211]
Schoolmaster, The, Abroad (illus)	[189]
— The, asks for Backsheesh	[190]
Schools, Miss Whateley’s	[211]
Sculpture, Life-like	[222]
Selim, Sultan	[218]
Serapeum, The (illus)	[203], [204]
Seymour, Admiral, Opens Fire on Forts	[258]
Shalouf	[248]
Shave, A, and a Wash (illus)	[199], [199]
Ship of the Desert, A Wrecked	[223]
Shoeblacks	[186]
Shops Tiny	[182]
Shubra Avenue, In (illus)	[214]
— The	[212]
Simon Stylites	[220]
Soldier, British, in Egypt	[242]
Soldiers, English, quite at home	[244]
— glad to have Newspapers	[230]
Sphinx, The	[216]
— The (illus)	[199]
Spider, The	[233], [234], [235]
Spider’s Web, The	[234]
Statue, A, Four Thousand Years old	[222]
Stick, The Heaven-sent	[198]
Story-teller, A	[222]
Storytellers, Professional, at Cairo	[188]
Strabo, on the Serapeum	[203]
Street in Bûlak (illus)	[219]
Streets of Suez Narrow	[182]
Suez	[241], [248]
— Arrive off	[181]
Suez Canal, A new Canal wanted	[252]
— British Traffic through	[247]
— Cost of Constructing	[247]
— Does not silt up	[249]
— Embankments of	[247]
— Erroneous Impressions	[249]
— Festivities on Opening	[247]
— First Undertaken by Pharaoh Necho	[244]
— French Officials inferior in capacity	[250]
— French short-sighted in Business Matters	[252]
— In the (illus)	[226]
— Lesseps’ Monopoly	[252]
— Lesseps, M. de	[250]
— Mercantile Importance of	[247]
— Necessity of increased accommodation	[250]
— Operations begun	[246]
— Palmerston, Lord, Obstinacy of	[250]
— Restrictions Absurd	[251]
— Ships not allowed to move after Sun-down	[251]
— Sinuosities of	[249]
— Steamers under perfect control	[250]
— Suggestion, A	[253]
— How to deal with Profit	[253]
— The	[244]
Suez Hotel	[182], [242]
— Streets of, Narrow	[182]
Sultan, Selim	[218]
Tel-el-Kebir	[242], [243]
Temple, Underground	[201]
Tih, The Tomb of	[205]
Timsah, Lake, Lord Wolseley’s base of operations	[248]
Tomb of Tih (illus)	[205], [206]
Tombs of the Khalifs (illus)	[218]
Torture, A Novel Instrument of	[220]
Town Tax, The, or the Octroi	[216]
Treasures, Buried	[201]
Tree, The Virgin’s	[218]
Umbrellas, A New Use for	[181]
Villages, Dreadful Mud	[207]
Virgin’s Tree, The	[218]
Wash, A, and a Shave (illus)	[199], [201]
Wash Basin, An Impromptu	[229]
Washing Hands, A Primitive Mode of	[199]
Water-carriers (illus)	[215]
Weigher for the Trade	[192]
Whateley’s, Miss, Schools	[211]
What lack ye?	[226]
Wild Fowl Shooting, Good	[230]
Words which Broke no Bones	[182]
Zagazig	[187]
Equator, Heat at	[24]
Faces too Dark to be Seen	[122]
Falmouth	[63]
Beach and Sands	[71]
Burial-place (illus)	[70]
Cockney Sportsman	[71]
Der Dichter Spricht	[65]
Epping Forest	[67]
Hotel (illus)	[69]
Land of Snakes	[64]
Magpies	[63]
River Esk	[64]
Stoney Creek	[64]
Fernshaw	[53]
Hard Fare	[53]
Pioneering	[53]
Fiji Children ask for More	[117]
— Islands	[116]
— Native of (illus)	[117]
Fingal	[67]
Fire Brigade Practice	[119]
Flying Fish	[27]
Free Trade	[99]
Gambling on Board Ship	[26]
Golden Gate, The	[131]
Gum Trees, A Forest of	[51]
— (illus)	[52], [53]
Habits of Islanders acquired	[128]
Healesville	[51]
A Soafler	[51]
Hotel Accommodation	[51], [56]
Remedy, a Sovereign	[58]
Hobart Town	[77]
Fern Tree Valley	[78]
Harvest in February	[78]
Jericho to Jerusalem, via Bagdad	[78]
New Norfolk	[78]
Homeward Bound	[127]
Honolulu, Arrival at	[122]
Baby Sold for a Dollar	[126]
Breakfast ordered Overnight	[122]
Brownie, Quite a	[125]
Chairs or Seats usually absent	[126]
Children described	[124]
Country very Poor	[125]
Dragon-flies, numerous	[124]
Dressmaking not a difficult Art	[124]
Faces too Dark to be Seen	[122]
Fire-flies	[122]
Flowers of the most brilliant colours	[124]
Grass green and beautiful	[124]
Hawaiian Islands, King of, Landlord of Hotel	[123]
Healthiness of	[127]
Heathen Chinee, his Tricks not in Vain	[123]
Hotel	[122]
Houses made chiefly of Rushes	[126]
Islanders en fète	[121]
Letters, Glad to be Rid of	[125]
Library	[125]
Museum	[125]
Natives Dressed in Splendid Colours	[124]
Parliament House	[125]
Passenger Overboard	[121]
Perfume of Tropical Flowers	[122]
Pilots Decline to go out for Vessels	[121]
Race fast dying out	[125]
Ruth, the King’s Sister (illus)	[127]
Servants gone Home	[122]
Squatting on Ground Prevailing Custom	[126]
Supper not to be had	[122]
Temperature of	[127]
Vegetation of	[124]
Village, Native	[126]
Villas Pretty and Numerous	[126]
Waiters Celestial	[123]
Water, Thoughts when Under	[121]
Women’s Clothing, Scanty	[124]
Women Stately Looking	[124]
Honolulu, Hotel at	[122]
Horse, Burying the Dead (illus)	[21]
Hotel Experiences	[67]
I guess the seat is dry now	[129]
Irish Bulls, where manufactured	[13]
Islanders en fète	[121]
Jefferson Brick, Junior	[129]
Jerra Jerra	[96]
Kandavu	[115]
Knife Trick, The	[130]
Life on Board Ship (see Ship—Life on Board)	[3]–[39]
Lyre Bird, The (illus)	[59]
Launceston	[61]
Bees in Mourning	[62]
Cicadas	[61]
Cora Linn	[63]
Pomona’s Temple	[62]
Snakes	[61]
Tamar River	[61]
Tasmanian Hospitality	[62]
Tonsorial Palace	[62]
Tree Locusts	[61]
Marysville	[56]
Stephenson Falls	[56]
Meal, a good square one preferred on Shore	[121]
Melbourne (see also Victoria)	[39]
Berry Ministry, the	[43]
Black Death at	[40]
Black Spur Mountains	[50]
— (illus)	[56]
Building Trade at, Depressed, Results	[102]
Bush, The	[50]
Description of	[41]
Education	[42]
Exhibition at, why decided on	[102]
Happy Land	[46]
Hobson’s Bay	[39], [80]
Hot Winds	[47]
Natural History Museum	[42]
Old Debts, a New Way to Pay	[45]
Overland from Sydney	[94], [100]
Parliamentary Procedure	[43]
Parliament, Houses of	[45]
— Payment of Members of	[44]
Protection	[102]
Revisited	[79]
Roads	[50]
Sanitary Arrangements, Defective	[47]
Stage Coaches	[50]
Streets wide and long	[103]
Tall and Fat a street sweeper	[48]
Tramways opposed by Cabmen	[103]
Vineyards	[50]
Yarra Yarra River	[60]
Mister	[130]
Moighty Dry	[130]
Native Dish called Poi	[128]
New South Wales (see also Sydney)	[107]
Acres Many, Men Few	[107]
Agricultural Machinery, Imported	[108]
Artisans Attracted from Victoria	[109]
Customs Revenue, Increase of	[110]
Employment Abundant	[107]
Exports, Increase of	[110]
Free Trade Colony	[107]
Hudson Bros, Limited	[108]
Immigration Larger than in Victoria	[109]
Imports, Increase of	[110]
Imports in 1782 and 1881	[109]
Industry, A Native, Created	[108]
Labour, Increasing Demand for	[109]
Machinery, Agricultural and Mining, Imports of	[108]
— Mining, Demand for	[107]
Manufacturing Concern, Largest in Colony	[108]
Men Few, Acres Many	[107]
Mining Machinery, Imports of	[108]
— Machinery, Perfection of	[107]
Policy Opposite to that of Victoria	[107]
Population Attracted	[109]
— Constantly Increasing	[107]
— Increase of, in Ten Years	[110]
— Room for More	[109]
Prosperity, Evidences of	[107]
Railway System, Vast and Expanding	[107]
Sawmills, Steam, at Sydney	[108]
Shipping	[107]
— Development of	[109]
— During last Thirty Years	[109]
— Repairing Yards Removed from Victoria	[109]
Timber, Native Better than Imported	[108]
Trade, Import and Export	[107]
Victoria Contrasted with	[107]
Oatlands	[78]
The Gaol	[79]
Pacific Ocean belies its Name	[115]
Parson, The, Quite at Sea	[16]
A Man of Peace now	[30]
Colonists’ complain of	[32]
Congregation, Secures a	[16]
Drain Pipes, how they are made	[30]
Mixes his Degrees	[31]
Sermon on Geology	[16]
Water Pumped from a Mine Twelve Miles Deep	[16]
Passenger, Death of	[130]
— falls Overboard	[121]
Personal Difficulties	[120]
— Favour, As a	[131]
Pilots Decline to go out for Vessels	[121]
Protection	[39], [100]
Salt Water good for the “Spin-ial Orgins”	[7]
San Francisco	[131]
Baggage Master	[147]
Business Activity	[138]
— Men, Sharp	[140]
Carriages, Hackney	[144]
Character, Bad Better than None	[139]
Chinaman, Am claimed as a	[144]
Chinese Close Shavers	[141]
Chinese Pigtails (illus)	[142]
— Joss Houses Visited	[143]
— Quarter Full of Interest	[141]
— Numerous	[140]
— Quarter Explored at Night	[143]
— Theatre Visited	[143]
— Washermen	[137]
— Wedding	[143]
Civilisation and Barbarism Face to Face	[137]
Climate Delightful	[145]
Correspondent, A Familiar	[138]
Darwin would have been Delighted	[142]
Dodge, A Favourite	[139]
Earning a Cent anyhow	[132]
English Fittings	[137]
Entrance to Harbour Sighted	[131]
Fire Brigades	[144]
Flats and Sharps	[139]
Golden Gate, The	[131]
Governor, Qualifications for a State	[140]
Habit, The National	[138]
Hackney Carriages	[144]
Heat and Dust Terrible	[147]
I Guess you are Going to England	[140]
Jarrett, A. J. C.	[138]
John Chinaman	[141]
Knife and Fork, only One at Meals	[138]
Lady Doctors Numerous	[140]
Luggage, Arrangements for, Excellent	[147]
Min-ne, Little	[141]
Mister, Last of (illus)	[146]
My Wife is Dead	[138]
Pacific Seal	[145]
Palace Hotel	[135], [137]
Police, Messenger from Chief of	[139]
Sea-lions	[145]
Seal Rocks (illus)	[145]
Starching, a Fine Art	[137]
Streets, Handsome	[138]
Tang-y, A Chinese City	[144]
Tang-ye, Proof of Celestial Origin	[144]
Temperature	[145]
Tobacco Chewing and its Consequences	[138]
Tramways	[144]
Volunteers	[144]
Yosemite Valley	[146]
San Francisco, Voyage to	[113], [132]
Sharks	[18], [30]
— don’t like Dark Skins	[118]
Ship-Life on board	[3]
Albatross	[27]
Bay of Biscay, Nor’-wester in	[6]
Bazaar	[34]
Betting	[26], [38]
Blatant Beast, The, fires a Revolver	[25]
Burying the Dead Horse	[21]
Cabin’d, Cribb’d, Confin’d	[3]
Cape Otway	[38]
Captain not so fond of Progress as the Passengers	[12]
Captains, why they are Tories	[13]
Cat Chase	[26]
Collisions at Sea	[29]
Colonial Statesman beaten but not vanquished	[39]
Concerts and Recitations	[9]
Congregation, How to Secure a	[16]
Consumptive Patients sent too late	[5]
Cross-signalling	[35]
Danite Band, The	[33]
Death and Burial at Sea	[15]
Dolphins	[27]
Dolphin, the “Classic” (illus)	[28]
Dramatic Performance	[35]
Exhibition, Fine Art	[35]
Fellow-passengers	[4]
First Night on Board	[3]
Flying Fish	[27]
Gale off Cape Leeuwin	[38]
Genial Captain (illus) advantageous	[11]
German Lady, old but lively	[19]
Hobson’s Bay	[39]
Illness of Passengers	[14]
Incident in Cornwall recalled	[24]
Ixion goes mad	[14]
Letters Home	[29]
Life Friendships formed	[4]
Love your Enemies	[17]
Melbourne, Arrive at	[39]
Music not always harmonious	[10]
Night-walkers a nuisance	[9]
Nor’-wester in the Bay of Biscay	[6]
Parson Mixes his Degrees	[31]
Pilot Fish	[28]
Passengers paying their Footing	[30]
— divided into Sets	[3]
Peal of Hand-bells	[16]
Portuguese Man-of-War	[28]
Private Convict System	[4]
Quoits a selfish Game	[9]
Rolling Forties	[38]
Scarlet Lady	[20]
Sea-sickness, Cure for	[6]
Sermon on Geology	[16]
Sharks	[18], [30]
Ship in full Sail	[29]
Short and Stout	[25]
Soup too Salt	[19]
Sports (illus)	[8]
Spurgeon’s Evangelist	[32]
Squall near Madeira	[12]
Steward’s Life a hard one	[7]
Tall and Fat	[25]
Tristan d’Acunha	[38]
Tropical Heat	[8], [24]
Tropical Phosphorescence	[33]
Newspaper	[10]
Water Pumped from Twelve Miles Deep	[16]
Wild Spirits carry on	[25]
Whale	[30]
Ship’s Doctors	[120]
Snakes	[61], [64], [68], [72], [73], [74], [97]
Spurgeon’s Evangelist	[32]
Steward, A Negro	[115]
St Mary’s (illus)	[68]
Supper, Too late for	[123]
Sunday at the Fiji Islands	[116]
Sydney (see also New South Wales)	[80]
Ants	[90]
Bail-up	[89]
Bathurst	[89]
Blue Mountains	[84]
Botanical Gardens	[82]
Bullock Team on Blue Mountains (illus)	[94]
Bush Hut (illus)	[95]
Bushrangers	[89]
Cottage, Mount Victoria (illus)	[86]
Education Act, The, Amended	[92]
Excise Act	[92]
Falls, The Weatherboard (illus)	[87]
Great Goat Sucker, The	[90]
Harbour (illus)	[80]
Hartley Vale, Descent to (illus)	[88]
Harvest on New Year’s Day	[95]
Hotels, Primitive	[84]
Laughing Jackass, The (illus)	[90]
Lithgow	[88]
Manufacturing Concern, Largest in Colony	[107]
Oysters	[83]
— on Trees	[84]
Political Situation	[92]
Saw Mills, Steam	[108]
Sheep Runs	[95]
Southerly Buster, A	[83]
Sydney to Melbourne Overland	[94], [100]
Albury	[98]
Ants	[96]
Axles, Imported	[108]
Bush, The	[96]
Carriage Furniture, Imported	[108]
Drought of Ten Months’ duration	[113]
Endurance of Post-horses	[98]
Euroa	[100]
Free Trade at	[108]
Germanton	[96]
Hay, Price of	[113]
Hudson Brothers (Limited)	[108]
Industry, A Native, Created	[108]
Jerra Jerra	[96]
Kelly’s Exploits at Euroa	[100]
Magpies, Large	[96]
Railway Rolling Stock Manufacturers	[108]
Rain, Downpour of	[114]
River Murray	[99]
Royal Mail	[96]
Sheep, Loss of	[114]
Shipping during last thirty years	[109]
Sighing for Old England	[97]
Snakes	[97]
Springs, Imported	[108]
Timber, Native Better than Imported	[108]
Tommy, a youthful Driver	[98]
Town, An Up-country (illus)	[98]
Vineyards	[99]
Wagga Wagga	[95], [96]
Wheels, Imported	[108]
Wodonga	[99]
Sydney to San Francisco	[113], [132]
Tasmania	[75]
Farms large in size	[75]
Good Roads	[75]
Hawkers	[76]
Mount Wellington (illus)	[76]
River Derwent	[75]
The Rabbit and the Thistle	[75]
Teneriffe (illus)	[7]
Travelling by Rail and Ship compared	[1]
Tree Ferns	[52], [56]
Tristan d’Acunha, Island of	[36]
Tropical Heat	[8], [24]
— Phosphorescence	[33]
Tropics, In the (illus)	[40]
Turtles	[18]
United States	[169]
Americans would Become our Competitors	[176]
Artisans (American) not Better Off than British	[176]
— Wages and Holidays	[174]
Baggage Arrangements Convenient	[171]
— Described	[171]
Books Dear	[170]
Cabmen Disgusted	[171]
Cadgers, In England such Men would be Called	[176]
Calicoes Consigned to England	[173]
Charges Simply Monstrous	[170]
Children without Shoes and Stockings	[177]
Climate more Trying than that of England	[174]
— of America Exhausting	[176]
Competition Become Exceedingly Fierce	[175]
Considerably Sold	[178]
Corruption among Officials	[169]
Cotton Mill Operatives from Germany, etc.	[175]
Dear America	[170]
Dinner, Charge for a Plain	[170]
Engine, The Largest, in the World	[172]
Exhibition, The Centennial, Philadelphia	[169], [171]
Exports Limited by Protection	[175]
Factory Operatives’ Wages Lower than in Lancashire	[174]
Fair Trade Agitation	[174]
Fortunes, Colossal, Built up under Protection	[176]
Freedom for Tongue and Foot	[177]
Free Trade and Wages	[174]
— not an Unmixed Blessing	[176]
— under, Wider Distribution of Material Comfort	[176]
Holidays Fewer than in England	[174]
Hours of Labour Longer than in England	[176]
— Longer than in Lancashire	[174]
Improvements (so-called) in Manufactures	[172]
Labour, Honest, Avoided	[176]
Liquor Traffic Presents Many Difficulties	[177]
Living, Cost of, Higher than in England	[174]
Loafers Numerous	[176]
Negro Labour does not Flood the Markets	[177]
Newspaper Inferior and Dear	[170]
New York	[169]
Officials, Corruption among	[169]
Over-production	[173]
Philadelphia	[171]
Protection, An Argument for	[173]
— and Wages	[174]
— Doomed	[175]
— Wages Steadily Declining under	[176]
Railway Charges Moderate	[171]
Rich, but Honest	[169]
Slave Experiences	[177]
Something Hot	[178]
Steamboat Charges Moderate	[171]
Sunday Traffic Perplexing	[177]
Teetotal Lecture, A Regular	[178]
Temperance Lecture, The First, they had Heard	[178]
Tools, Inferior	[172]
Wages Higher, but Balanced by Extra Cost of Living	[176]
— Higher, not a Full Equivalent	[176]
— Lower than in 1860	[174]
— Steadily Declining under Protection	[176]
— with Free Trade and Protection	[174]
Victoria (see also Melbourne)	[101]
Agricultural Industries not Protected	[105]
— Heavily Taxed	[105]
Artisans Attracted to New South Wales	[109]
Books, Can Produce Her Own	[104]
Cabby Overrides the Tramway	[103]
Country Districts Sparsely Populated	[101]
Customs, Revenue, Stationary	[110]
Depression of Building Trade at Melbourne	[102]
Dog Subsisting on His Own Tail	[102]
Duty on Imports Demanded	[103]
Exhibition at Melbourne why Decided on	[102]
Exports, Increase of	[110]
Fiscal Policy, Vicious	[105]
Food, Taxation of, not Permitted	[105]
Free Trade—the Argus	[104]
— for Raw Materials	[103]
Government, Quite Right to Cheat the	[106]
Immigration, Grants in Aid of	[105]
Imported Manufactures Heavily Taxed	[101]
Imports, Increase of	[110]
Laws, Evasion of, by Protectionists	[106]
Locomotives Costly	[104]
— Required	[104]
Manufacturer’s Profit not quite enough	[104]
Manufacturers Require Larger Field	[105]
Minerals, Home Demand for, Small	[105]
— Mainly Exported	[105]
Mining Industries not Protected	[105]
— Machinery Heavily Taxed	[105]
Native Industry, In Interests of	[104]
Natural Resources Neglected	[102]
New South Wales, Contrasted with	[107]
Population Concentrated in Large Towns	[101]
— Increase of, in Ten Years	[110]
— (Manufacturing) Growing Faster than its Customers	[102]
— not Retained	[101]
— Larger, a Great Want	[105]
— Room for Larger	[105]
Prices sufficiently High	[104]
Printed Books should be more Heavily Taxed	[104]
Printing Materials, Suggestion to Tax	[104]
Protected Industries for a Limited Time	[103]
— Manufacturers not Happy	[106]
Protection Demanded by Manufacturers	[102]
— Effect on Money	[106]
— in its most Pronounced Form	[101]
Protectionist Newspapers	[103]
Railway Stores	[105]
Shipping—Repairing Yards Removed to New South Wales	[109]
Tramways Opposed by Cabmen	[103]
Tariff Revision Committee	[103]
Working Classes Jealous of Competition	[105]
Work, Legislature Expected to Supply	[102]
Workpeople very Independent	[107]
Voyage, Author’s First, to Australia	[5]
Waterspout	[119]
Water, Thoughts when Under	[121]
White Squall, The	[35]
Yankee Journalist described	[129]
Yankee’s Inquiry	[128]