| PAGE |
| INTRODUCTION | [1] |
| Chapter I. |
| THE SEA DAYAKS. |
| Habitat of the Sea Dayaks—Start for the Lundu—Inland Passages—FatVenison—The Lundu—Long Village House—ChineseGardens—Picturesque Waterfall—The LunduDayaks—Their Village—Gradual Extinction of the Tribe—ASquall—Childbirth—Girl Bitten by a Snake—Mr.Gomez—His Tact—A Boa Seizes my Dog—Stories of BoaConstrictors—One Caught in a Cage—Invasion of a Dining-room—Captureof a large Boa—Boa and Wild Boar—NativeAccounts—Madman and Snake—Boas used as RatCatchers—Floating Islands—A Man found on one—TheirOrigin—The Batang Lupar—The Lingga—AlligatorsDangerous—Method of Catching them—Their Size—HairBalls—Death of an Acquaintance—The Balau Lads—TheOrang-Utan—A large one killed—Banks of the River—TheFort at Sakarang—The late Mr. Brereton—SakarangHead-hunting—Dayak Stratagem—Peace Ceremonies—SacredJars—Farmhouse—Love of Imitation—IllustratedLondon News—Women—Men—Poisoning—Workers inGold and Brass—Anecdote—Rambi Fruit—Pigs Swimming—TheBore—Hunting Dogs—Wild Boar—Respect forDomestic Pig—Two Kinds of Deer—Snaring—Land andSea Breezes—The Rejang—Lofty Millanau House—HumanSacrifices—Swings—Innumerable Mayflies—KanowitVillage—Kayan Mode of Attack—Kanowit Dayaks—Menwith Tails—Extraordinary Effect of Bathing in theNile—Treachery—Bier—Customs on the Death of aRelative—Curious Dance—Ceremonies on solemnizingPeace—Wild Tribes—Deadly Effect of the Upas | [5] |
| Chapter II. |
| SOCIAL LIFE OF THE SEA DAYAKS. |
| Ceremonies at the Birth of a Child—Infanticide—Desire forChildren—A Talkative and Sociable People—Great Concordin Families—Method of Settling Disputes—MarriageCeremonies—Pride of Birth—Chastity—Punishment ofIndiscreet Lovers—Bundling and Company-keeping—LoveAnecdotes—Separations—Division of HouseholdDuties—Flirting—Divorce—Burials—Religion—Belief in aSupreme Being—Good and Evil Spirits—TheSmall-pox—Priests—Some dress asWomen—Mourning—Sacrifices—Human Sacrifices—UnluckyOmens—Reconciliation—Belief in a Future State—The otherWorld—Dayaks Litigious—Head-feast—Head-hunting—ItsOrigin—Horrible Revenge—Small Inland Expeditions—Cat-likeWarfare—Atrocious Case—Large InlandExpeditions—War-boats—Edible Clay—Necessity for aHead—Dayaks very Intelligent—Slaves—Objections to Eatingcertain Animals, or Killing others—Change of Names—Degreesof Affinity within which Marriages may takeplace—Sickness—Cholera—Manufactures—Agriculture—Methodof taking Bees’ Nests—LyingHeaps—Passports—Ordeals—Language | [47] |
| Chapter III. |
| THE KAYANS OF BARAM. |
| Unaccountable Panic—Man Overboard—Fishing—CoastScenery—Baram Point—Floating Drift—Pretty Coast toLabuan—Thunder and Lightning Bay—Bar of the Brunei—RiverScenery—The Capital—Little Children in Canoes—FloatingMarket—Kayan Attack—The Present Sultan’sStory—Fire-arms—Devastation of the Interior—Customsof the Kayans—Upas Tree—View of the Capital—TheFountains—The Baram—Kayan Stratagem—Wild Cattle—Banksof the River—Gading Hill—Ivory—Elephants onNorth-east Coast—Hunting—Startling Appearance—Townof Langusin—Salutes—First Interview—Graves—WanderingKanowits—Appearance of the Kayans—VisitSingauding—Religion—Houses—Huge Slabs—Skulls—Womentattooed—Mats—Visit the Chiefs—Drinking Chorus—ExtemporeSong—Head-hunting—Effect of Spirits—Sacrifice—Ceremonyof Brotherhood—Effect of Newly-clearedJungle—War Dance—Firewood—Customs—Origin ofBaram Kayans—Vocabularies—Trade—Birds’ Nests—Destructionof Wealth—Manners and Customs—Iron—VisitEdible Birds’ Nest Caves—The Caves—NarrowEscape—Two Kinds of Swallows—Neat House—Visit ofSingauding—Visit to Si Obong—Her Dress—Hip-lace—HerEmployments—Farewell Visit—Fireworks—SmeltingIron—Accident—Departure—Kayans Cannibals—Anecdotes—FormerMethod of Trading—Unwelcome Visitors | [79] |
| Chapter IV. |
| THE LAND DAYAKS. |
| Visit to the Left-hand Branch of the Sarawak River—Attackof Peguans—Sarawak River—Capture of English Ship—TheDurian Fruit—Iron-wood Posts—Rapids—Rapid ofthe Corpse—Mountains—Village of San Pro—LovelyScenery—Head-house—Cave—Upper Cave—UnfortunateBoast—Pushing up the Rapids—Story of the DatuTamanggong—Invulnerable Men—How to become one—GrungLanding-place—Sibungoh Dayaks—Dayak Canoes—LovelyScenery—Uses of the Bambu—Fish—Sharks in the UpperWaters—Repartee—Pigs Swimming—Farmhouses inTrees—Floods—Suspension Bridges—Chinese Traders—Dress ofLand Dayaks—System of Forced Trade—Interesting Tribe—Story ofthe Murder of Pa Mua—The Trial—Painful Scene—DelightfulBathing—Passing the Rapids—Walk to Grung—Dayak Paths—Village ofGrung—Warm Reception—Ceremonies—Lingua Franca—PeculiarMedicine—Prayer—Sacred Dance—SprinklingBlood—Effect of former System of Government—Language | [125] |
| Chapter V. |
| LAND DAYAKS OF SIRAMBAU.—THEIR SOCIAL LIFE. |
| Madame Pfeiffer—Chinese Village—Chinese Maidens—Sirambau—Ascentof the Mountain—Difficult Climbing—Forestsof Fruit Trees—Scenery—Sirambau Village—Houses—The“Look-out”—Scenery—Head-houses—Orang KayaMita—His modest Request—Sir James Brooke’s Cottage—NaturalBath-house—Chinese Gold Workings—TapangTrees—Social Life of the Land Dayaks—Ceremonies ata Birth—Courtship—Betrothment—Marriage—Burial—Graves—TheSexton—Funeral Feast—Children—FemaleChastity—Divorces—Cause of Separations—Anecdote | [152] |
| Chapter VI. |
| SOCIAL LIFE OF THE LAND DAYAKS—Continued. |
| Religion—Belief in Supreme Being—Traces ofHinduism—Sacrifices—Pamali or Interdict—Mr. Chalmers’s Accountof the Dayak Religion—A Future State—Spirits byNature—Ghosts of Departed Men—Transformations—Catchingthe Soul—Conversion of the Priest to Christianity—Story—OtherGhosts—Custom of Pamali, or Taboo—Sacrifices—Thingsand Actions Interdicted—Not to EatHorned Animals—Reasons for not Eating Venison—OfSnakes—The Living Principle—Causes of Sickness—SpiritsBlinding the Eyes of Men—Incantations to Propitiate orFoil the Spirits of Evil—Catching the Soul—Feasts andIncantations connected with Farming Operations—TheBlessing of the Seed—The Feast of First Fruits—Securingthe Soul of the Rice—Exciting Night Scene—The HarvestHome—Singular Ceremony—Head Feasts—Offering theDrinking Cup—Minor Ceremonies—Images—Dreams—Love—Journeysof the Soul—Warnings in Sleep—MagicStones—Anecdote—Ordeals—Omens—Birds of Omen—Methodof Consulting them—Beneficial Effects of the HeadFeasts—Languages of the Land Dayaks—Deer—TheSibuyaus free from Prejudice—Story of the Cobra deCapella—Names—Change of Name—Prohibited Degrees ofAffinity—Heights—Medical Knowledge—Priests andPriestesses—Origin of the latter—TheirPractices—Manufactures—Agriculture—Story of the Origin ofRice—The Pleiades | [168] |
| Chapter VII. |
| THE SAMARAHAN RIVER AND THE CAVES OF SIRIH. |
| A Storm—The Musquito Passage—The Samarahan—RichSoil—The Malays—The Dayaks—The Malay Chief—TheSibuyau Village—A Pretty Girl—Dragons’ Heads—ClimbingPole—Drinking—“The Sibuyaus get no Headaches”—Forcerepelled by Force—Gardens—Left-hand Branch—DifficultPath—Hill of Munggu Babi—Former Insecurity—TheVillage—Welcome—Deer Plentiful—Walk tothe Sirih Caves—A Skeleton—Illustrative Story—Methodof Governing—Torches—Enter the Recesses of the Cave—SmallChambers—Unpleasant Walking—Confined Passage—TheBirds’ Nests’ Chamber—Method of Gathering them—CuriousScene—The Cloudy Cave—Wine of the TampuiFruit—Blandishments—Drinking—Dancing—BukarsHairy—Scenery—Walk—“The Sibuyaus do getHeadaches”—Lanchang—Rival Chiefs—Ancient Disputes—DeerShooting—Wanton Destruction of Fruit Trees—Choiceof an Orang Kaya—Return to Boat—The Right-handBranch—The San Poks—Hot Spring—Tradition—HinduRelics—The Female Principle—The StoneBull—Superstition—Story | [205] |
| Chapter VIII. |
| THE MOUNTAIN OF KINA BALU. |
| FIRST EXPEDITION. |
| First Ascent by Mr. Low—Want of Shoes—Set Sail for theTampasuk—Beautiful Scenery—The Abai—Manufactureof Nipa Salt—Uses of the Nipa Palm—A Lanun Chief—BajuSaddle—Baju a Non-walker—Our ride to the Tampasuk—GiganticMango Trees—The Datu’s House—ItsArrangements—The Datu and his People—Piratical Expedition—ABride put up to Auction—The Bajus—MixedBreeds—Quarrels with the Lanuns—Effect of StealingIda’an Children—Fable of the Horse and his Rider—Amountof Fighting Men—Freedom of the Women—Killing the Fatted Calf—Beautiful Prospect—A new Gardinia—PonyTravelling—Difficulty of procuring UsefulMen—Start—An Extensive Prospect—Cocoa-nuts andtheir Milk—A View of Kina Balu—Granite Débris—OurGuides—Natives Ploughing—Our Hut—Division of Land—Ginambur—NeatestVillage-house in the Country—ItsInhabitants—Tatooing—Curiosity—Blistered Feet—Batong—GraniteBoulders—Fording—Fish-traps—Tambatuan—Robbinga Hive—Search for the Youth-restoringTree—Our Motives—Appearance of the Summit of KinaBalu—A long Story—Swimming the River—Koung—Palmsnot plentiful—Lanun Cloth—Cotton—Nominal Wars—TheKiladi—Attempt to Levy Black-mail at the Villageof Labang Labang—Resistance—Reasons for demandingit—Bamboo flat-roofed Huts—Ingenious Contrivance—Kiau—DirtyTribe—Recognition of Voice—A Quarrel—Breakingthe Barometer—Opposition to the Ascent ofKina Balu—Harmless Demonstration—Thieves—Mr. Lowunable to Walk—Continue the Expedition alone—Cascade—Prayersto the Spirit of the Mountain—Flowers andPlants—Beautiful Rhododendrons—Cave—Unskilful Useof the Blow-pipe—Cold—Ascent to the Summit—GraniteFace—Low’s Gully—Noble Terrace—Southern Peak—Effectof the Air—The Craggy Summit—Distant Mountain—DangerousSlopes—Ghostly Inhabitants—Mist—Superstitions—CollectingPlants—Descent—Noble Landscape—DifficultPath—Exhaustion—Mr. Low not Recovered—DisagreeableVillagers—Recovering the BrassWire—Clothing—Distrust—A lively Scene—Our Menbehave well—Return on Rafts to the Datu’s House | [230] |
| Chapter IX. |
| SECOND ASCENT OF KINA BALU. |
| Cholera in Brunei—Start from Labuan—Coal Seams—Viewof Tanjong Kubong—Method of working the Coal—RedLand—Method of cultivating Pepper—Wild Cattle—ThePinnace—Kimanis Bay—Inland Passage—Kimanis River—Cassia—Tradein it stopped—Smooth River—My firstView of Kina Balu—Story of the Death of PangeranUsup—Anchor—Papar—A Squall—Reach Gaya Bay—NobleHarbour—Pangeran Madoud—My first Visits to him—Method of makingSalt—Village of Menggatal—Ida’an—His Fear of them—RomanCatholic Mission—Cholera—Mengkabong—ManillaCaptives—The Salt-water Lake—Head-quarters of the Bajus—TheirEnterprise—Find Stranded Vessels—Tripod Masts—BaligniniPirates—Their Haunts—Spanish Attack—GreatSlaughter—Savage-looking Men—Great Tree—UnreasoningRetaliation—Energy of M. Cuarteron—Lawlessness of theBajus—Pangeran Duroup, the Governor—Anecdote of a driftingCanoe—Inhospitable Custom—Origin of the Bajus—Welcomeby Pangeran Sirail—Love of Whiskey overcomesPrejudice—Night Weeping—A Market—The Datu ofTamparuli—The Pangeran’s Enthusiasm—Path to theTawaran—Fine Scene—Fruit Groves—Neat Gardens—TheTawaran—Sacred Jars—The Talking Jar—AttemptedExplanation—Efficacy of the Water—Carletti’s Account—FabulousValue—The Loveliest Girl in Borneo—No Rice—Advance toBawang—Our Guides—Steep Hill—Extensive View—SiNilau—Unceremonious Entry into a House—The NilauTribe—Kalawat Village—Tiring Walk—Desertion of aNegro—Numerous Villages—Bungol Village Large—Deceived by theGuide—Fatiguing Walk—KoungVillage—Black Mail—Explanation—Friendly Relationsestablished—Labang Labang Village—Change ofTreatment—Kiau Village—Warm Reception—Houses—NoRice—Confidence | [280] |
| Chapter X. |
| SECOND ASCENT OF KINA BALU—Continued. |
| Return of the Men for Rice—Readiness to assist us—NewKinds of Pitcher Plants—The Valley of Pinokok—BeautifulNepenthes—Kina Taki—Description of the NepenthesRajah—Rocks Coated with Iron—Steep Strata—TheMagnolia—Magnificent Sunset Scene—Fine Soil—Talkabout the Lake—Change of Fashions—Effect of Example—RapidTailoring—Language the same among Ida’an,Dusun, and Bisaya—Reports—Start for Marei Parei—TheFop Kamá—Prepare Night Lodgings—Fragrant Bed—StuntedVegetation—Appearance of Precipices—Dr.Hooker—Botanical Descriptions—Nepenthes Rajah—Mannerof Growing—Great Size—Used as a Bucket—Drowned Rat—Nepenthes Edwardsiana—An Account ofit—Beautiful Plants—Botanical Description of NepenthesEdwardsiana—Extensive Prospects—Peaked Hill of SadukSaduk—Noble Buttress—Situation for Barracks—NourishingFood—Deep Valleys—Familiar Intercourse with theVillagers—Turning the Laugh—Dirty Faces—Looking-glasses—TheirEffect—Return of our Followers—Start forthe Mountain—Rough Cultivation—The Mountain Rat usedas Food—Our Old Guides—Difficult Walking—ScarletRhododendron—Encamp—Double Sunset—NepenthesLowii—Botanical Description—Nepenthes Villosa—BotanicalDescription—Extensive View of the Interior ofBorneo—The Lake—The Cave—Ascend to the Summit—ItsExtent and Peculiarities—Distant Views—North-westernPeak—Severe Storm—Injured Barometer—UselessThermometers—Dangerous Descent—Accidents—Quartzin Crevices—Clean and Pleasant Girls—FriendlyParting—Ida’an Sacrifices—Return by Koung—Kalawatand Nilu—Death of Sahat—A Thief—Cholera—Incantationsand Method of Treatment—Arrival at Gantisan—FineWharf—The Pangeran—Bad Weather—Heavy Squall—LittleRice to be had—Sail—Anchor at Gaya Island—CuriousStones—Fish—Description of a magnificent Kind—PoisonousFins—Set Sail—Awkward Position—Water-spout—AdmiraltyCharts—Names require Correcting—SeriousMistake—Among the Shoals—Fearful Squall—FallingStars and Brilliant Meteor—Arrival at Labuan | [314] |
| Chapter XI. |
| THE PHYSICAL AND POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY OF THEDISTRICTS LYING BETWEEN GAYA BAY AND THETAMPASUK RIVER; WITH A GEOGRAPHICALSKETCH OF MALUDU BAY AND THE NORTH-EASTCOAST OF BORNEO. |
| The Coast Line—The Rivers—The Bays—Gaya Bay—Abai—Characterof Interior Country—Plains—Hills—KinaBalu—First Ascent by Mr. Low—Description of Summit—ThePeaks—The Northern Ranges—Steep GraniteSlopes—The Spurs—The Main Spur—Interior Country—DistantMountains—Plain—Villages—The Lake—Vegetationon Kina Balu—The Rivers—The Ananam—TheKabatuan—The Mengkabong—The Tawaran—The Abai—TheTampasuk—Its Interior—Political Geography—Inhabitants—TheLanuns—The Bajus—Mahomedans—Appearance—TheirWomen—Their Houses—Love ofCockfighting—Fine Breed of Fowls—Other Inhabitants—TheIda’an—Their Houses—Their Women—Tattooing—ComfortableHouse—Method of Government—No Wars—AboriginesHonest—Exceptions—Agriculture—Ploughing—Remnantof Chinese Civilization—Tobacco—Cotton—GoodSoil—Amount of Population—Numerous and ExtensiveVillages—The Tampasuk—The Tawaran—Mengkabong—OtherDistricts—Enumeration—Manufactures—LanunCloths—Trade—DifficultTravelling—Languages—Geology—Sandstone—Greenstone—Climateof Kina Balu temperate—Map—Addition—Maludu Bay—WesternPoint—Western Shore—Mountains—Head of Bay—Population—Accountscompared—Bengkoka—Minerals—EasternPoint—Banguey—Difficult Navigation—SmallRivers and Bays—Paitan—Sugut—Low Coast—LabukBay—High Land—Benggaya—Labuk—Sandakan—Storyof the Atas Man—Kina Batangan—CapeUnsang—Tungku—Population—The Ida’an—The Mahomedans | [356] |