America in 1905.
In company with Lord Claud Hamilton I again visited America in 1905. We sailed from Liverpool in the "Ivernia." When we arrived at Boston Lord Claud received a letter from the president of the New York Central Railway placing at his disposal a private car which would be attached to any train we required, and in which we were free to go to any part of the United States. This was a personal compliment to Lord Claud as chairman of the Great Eastern Railway.
We found the car contained a dining saloon, four state rooms, and at one end was a smoking room and observatory in which we could sit and view the scenery.
There was an excellent chef and a very attentive steward; and in this car we travelled and lived for three weeks, being most sumptuously entertained. We picked up two friends, so we had a very pleasant party of four. We visited Niagara, Chicago, St. Louis (to see the Exhibition), Washington, and other places en route. At St. Louis we were received by the president of the Exhibition, Mr. Francis, who drove us round the grounds in a Western prairie coach, painted yellow, and drawn by six white horses. It was a curious experience. The coach was fully laden, and as we rushed around the corners it lurched and heeled over in a truly alarming manner. We felt for the time as if we were part of a Wild West circus troupe.
The Exhibition was very well worth seeing. Of all the great exhibitions it was quite one of the best. The illuminations in the evening were on a magnificent scale.
During our railway progress we were surprised at the number of wrecks of trains we passed; seventeen in all. Many had been accompanied by loss of life, but little or no allusion was made to them in the newspapers. We began to feel anxious for our own safety, and we were congratulating ourselves upon our escape from all trouble, when, nearing New York on our way from Washington, suddenly we saw our locomotive sail away in front of us, and looking back saw the remainder of the train standing half-a-mile behind us. The couplings had broken, but the automatic brakes, fortunately, brought us to a standstill.
When we arrived at any important place at which we intended to make a stay, we placed the private car on a siding while we took up our quarters at an hotel or a country club. These country clubs are charming institutions in America, and the members are most generous in extending their hospitality to travellers.
When at Washington President Roosevelt kindly invited us to dine at the White House. We were unable to accept this invitation, and he then asked us to lunch. With the exception of General Chaffee, we were alone with the President. The White House has a very English homelike aspect. It is a large Georgian house furnished and decorated in Adams style, and resembles an English gentleman's country residence.
President Roosevelt is a thick-set man of medium height, very vivacious and active, both mentally and physically. He had all the energy and strenuous activity, while his Chief Secretary of State, Mr. Hay, had the wisdom and discretion, and the two made a strong combination. When Mr. Hay died this salutary restraint was removed, and President Roosevelt tried to carry out reforms with a rush. Though his intentions were excellent the rough and hasty methods he adopted plunged the country into a disastrous and far-reaching financial disaster.
At lunch the President told me that he had that morning been reading Macaulay for the third or fourth time, and was anxious to know when Tories in England ceased to be called Tories. I replied, "It was after Macaulay's time; about the 'sixties." He then told me that he had been to see the Jiu-jitsu clan of Japanese perform with their grips; they had 300 grips, and being fond of athletics he had learned thirty of them. After lunch, while I was standing near the fire, the President rushed at me and said, "Let me try a few of the grips on you," and before I could answer he had my right arm over his shoulder, and I had to follow bodily. He did not hurt me, and relinquished his grip when he found he was my master. He then took hold of my legs below the knees and threw me over his shoulder, and finally, taking hold of my hands, placed me on my back. The easy way in which he caught me and prevented my falling was a proof of his great muscular strength. He attacked Lord Claud Hamilton in a similar fashion, but Lord Claud shrank from the contest. I think this was a proof of the extreme human character of the President. He will live as one of America's greatest Presidents, and I suppose there are not many men who can say they have wrestled with this great uncrowned king of America.