The Anglo-Egyptian Sudan: a compendium prepared by officers of the Sudan government, Vol. 1 (of 2)

by Sudan. Wizarat al-Naql wa-al-Muwasalat

(vi.)—DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE NILE FROM THE NORTHERN BOUNDARY OF THE SUDAN TO GONDOKORO.

Section 1.—Halfa to Merowe.

The northern boundary of the Sudan (and of the Halfa Province), though nominally the 22nd parallel of north latitude, begins for administrative purposes on the Nile at Faras Island, 12 miles north of the point where that parallel crosses the river and 20 miles north of Halfa. Opposite Halfa the river is some 900 yards broad, and is navigable up to the foot of the 2nd cataract, 26½ miles up stream.

Beyond the 2nd cataract the river runs through the broken rocky country of Batn El Hagar, and is full of rocks and rapids which require careful steering, even for small boats at high Nile, up to the Amara rapid. Beyond this the river is fairly easy till the 3rd or Kajbar Cataract is approached. At this point the Nile again works its way through broken hilly ground covered with boulders, and from thence it is plain boating, except for sandbanks, till Merowe.

A road, or rather a fair camel track—total 228 miles from Halfa to opposite Dongola—runs along the right bank of the river, taking short cuts across bends (notably for 35 miles across the desert between Kosha and Abu Sari) all the way, but has naturally been considerably superseded by the railway. On the left bank there is also a through camel track, but it keeps further from the river and is less used than that on the other bank. (For detail, vide I.D.W.O. map No. 1489, sheets Wadi Halfa, Kosha, Dongola, Debba, and Merowe.)

The railway (3 feet 6 inches gauge) extending from Halfa to Kerma (203 miles) was started in Ismail Pasha’s time (1877), carried on nearly to Akasha in 1884-5, almost entirely destroyed by the Dervishes (1885-96) and rebuilt to provide means of transport for the Dongola Expedition in 1896. Of necessity it was rapidly and lightly laid, and it is now (1904) in a bad state of repair. Owing to the great cost which would be involved in its complete repair, it is to be abandoned (see Chapter X, [Section 1]).

(For administrative and economical details of the Halfa and Dongola Provinces, vide Chapters [III] and [IX.])

N.B.—In the river table, in order to avoid fractions, as a rule only the nearest mile or kilometre is given. Kilometres, where given, are in italics: 5 miles = 8 kilometres.

From Photo by]

[M. Venieris.

THE EASTERN NILE BANK, SOUTH OF HALFA.

Place.	Miles. Kilometres.		Left (West) Bank.	River and General.	Right (East) Bank.
	Inter-mediate.	From Halfa Camp.
Faras Island		20 32	Bare, except for a few huts and patchesof cultivation. Sandy and rocky, sloping to the river	Northern point of the SudanAdministration on river. River some 800 yards in width, current 1½miles per hour at low Nile to 3 miles per hour at high Nile	Cultivated in general. Palm trees. Sandy.Banks 20 feet at low Nile, 4 feet at high.
Jebel Sahaba	12	8		The 22nd parallel crosses the river atthis point	Jebel Sahaba, hill on R. bank.
Dabarosa	5	3		Fertile island.
Halfa	1½	1½		Difficult approach to right bank at lowNile. Numerous sandbanks appear, varying from year to year on thisstretch	A commercial town of about 2,500inhabitants, of which about 200 are Greeks. (See ChapterIII, [page 85.]) Landing place for goods andpassengers. Headquarters of Halfa Province. Terminus of S.G.R.
Halfa Camp (802 miles by river fromCairo)	1½	0	Nearly opposite Halfa is the QuarantineCamp, on a sandy slope	The best description of the river betweenthe 2nd and 3rd cataracts (including both) is by Commander Hammill,R.N., whose report (1884) is to be found in H.S.C., Vol. I.,Appendix O	Headquarters of the Sudan Railway.Landing place close to officers’ mess. Bank 10 to 30 feet aboveriver (226 miles from Shellal).
Khor Musa	5	5	The bank generally gets more rocky andbroken	Some additional matter, with large-scale(but inaccurate) map of the different rapids, is given in O.G.H.,pp. 9-25	Fort now in ruins. Action v. Dervishes1888. Bank broken and rocky. Huge boulders.
Foot of 2nd cataract (Shellal elAmka)	1½	6½ 10½		The cataract, 8½ miles in length, isimpassable for steamers and nearly so for any but small boats atlow Nile, and only navigable with difficulty at high Nile. At highNile it is a rumbling mass of rapids, whilst at low Nile it is abroken expanse of black rock, with shallow channels finding theirway between. The Batn El Hagar (Belly of rocks) is now entered.See Hammill’s report for detail.
Abu Sir	½	7	High cliff. Fine view of cataract	The banks of the river between this pointand Ginnis, where the Batn El Hagar is quitted, differ remarkablyin their characteristics. The left or western bank usually presentsa steep slope of loose golden sand, driven by the prevailing windsfrom the great Libyan Desert, varied by black crags jutting out ofit and low rocky hills, while the right or eastern bank isgenerally rocky, free from sand, and in some places almostprecipitous.
Matuka	3	10 16	Ancient Egyptian fortress of Matuka(XIIth Dynasty). Small temple to S.E. (see Murray, page982).
Head of 2nd cataract	3	13 21		Between the head of the 2nd cataract andthe foot of the Semna Rapid the Nile runs through a sterile anduninviting country, the eastern side covered with masses of blackrocks, the western with mountains of yellow sand. The navigation isdescribed as “difficult, dangerous, and tedious.”
Gemai	2	15			Used in 1884-5 as head of railway,portage for boats, &c.
Murshid	10	25
Sarras	8	33 53			Advanced post and fort of the Frontierforce 1886 to 1896.
Ruin	1	34	Ancient Egyptian fort		Railway here leaves the river bank andenters the rocky desert to the East.
Melik	6	40 64		Melik Island; ancient temple of SikatorI.
Semna Rapid	3	43	Semna Temple on height about 300 feetabove river. Jebel Barga just behind	Here a narrow ridge of gneiss forms anawkward barrier. At high Nile the river sweeps over it withoutperceptible diminution of width (430 yards), but at low Nile therocks are bare save for a narrow channel, 45 yards broad and 65feet deep, formed by erosion. (Gregory.)	Kumna Temple on height about 400 feetabove river.
Atiri Rapid	7	50 80		The obstructions to navigation consist of2 “gates” about 1½ miles apart; of these the lower gate presents nodifficulty. It is about 300 yards long, and steamers are able tosteam up through it at “half Nile” without unloading. The upper“gate” is more troublesome to pass, the channel being obstructed bya great barrier of rocks which stretch quite 200 yards across theriver, leaving at “low Nile” only a narrow gap towards the westernbank. At “high Nile” another channel exists near the opposite bank.Not serious.
Ambugol Rapid	7	57		One mile long; channel near right bank.Fall 3 feet. Not difficult.
Tanjur Rapid	15	72 116	Bank low and even, desert sand up toriver	Extends for about 3 miles. Awkward crosscurrents at foot. Western channel best. “Gates” at either endstraight and clear, but considerable rush of water. Difficult rapidaltogether	Bank high and precipitous, much brokenup.
Jebel Alimula	2	74			Road passes to west of J. Alimula and bya precipitous track cutting off bend to Sonki.
Sonki	3	77
Omka	2	79	Bank low and fairly level	Slight rapid, not serious	Range of hills recedes from river banklow and even.
Hammam	5	84 135	Hot spring (sulphur) for rheumatism,etc.
Akasha	1	85 137		Easy rapid. Ridge of rocks extends acrossriver. Western channel best	At the village of this name the railwaytouches the river for the first time since Sarras. Macdonald’sadvanced brigade occupied this, April, 1896. Headquarters ofDistrict and residence of Mamur.
Kulba	8	93 150	Late boundary (1903) between HalfaDistrict and Dongola Province	River begins to open out.
Dal Cataract	5	98 158	Bank low and even. Village here and onadjoining islands. On one island is a Mameluke fort, whence goodview obtainable	Broken water about 4 miles, numerousislands with high cliffs, difficult rapid, careful pilotagerequired—low ridges and rocks well covered at high Nile. Channel byright bank till half-way up, and then cross to left. Total width ofriver about 1,500 yards. Fall of 5 feet	Bank higher than opposite one, evenlyundulating. Becomes gradually cultivated. Jebel Dal, 4 miles to theeast, tall conical hill, 1,973 feet.
Sarkamatto	6	104 167	Desert road here leaves river for a shortcut of 19 miles S.W., to Sakiet El Abd	The river from here to Amara, 16 mileson, is in parts full of small islands, but offers nodifficulty	Cultivated tract, dominated in its upperportion by Jebel Firket, 1,880 feet. The action of 6.7.1896 tookplace to the south of this hill, and a mile north of Firketvillage. The railway, after short cut from Akasha, here comes closeto the river, and follows it through Mograka to Kosha, where itturns sharp to the south, following for the first 12 miles thedesert road to Abu Sari. Seven miles to the east lies Jebel Idris,1,720 feet, and 6 miles E.S.E. of the latter rises the mass ofJebel Hamra, 2,368 feet.
Jebel Firket	1	105
Firket Village	2	107 172	3 miles inland is a hill, 1,490 feet,name doubtful		Action here between E.A. and Dervishes:7.6.96.
Sarghun	4	111		Island near east bank.
Kosha	2	113 182	Road leaves river here for SelimaOasis	The channel here turns in a wide curve tothe west. Native boats take 8-10 days from here to Dulgo at highNile with fair wind.	Headquarters of District and residence ofMamur.

From Kosha onwards both the river banks become more and more cultivated, and are divided into districts varying from 1 to 4 or 5 miles in length, each containing one or more villages: gaps between districts in uncultivated parts.

All these districts consist of a greater or lesser amount of cultivated or uncultivated ground, together with a varying number of palm trees and huts. Each district is under a headman, and groups of them form the various sub-Districts, each under a Police Officer, a varying number of which go to make up a District; and out of these is formed the Province.

Only the more important sub-Districts will be mentioned in the River Itinerary.

Place.	Miles. Kilometres.		Left Bank.	River and General.	Right Bank.
	Inter-mediate.	From Halfa Camp.
Ginnis	2	115 185		At actual high Nile the river isnavigable without difficulty from Kosha to Dongola and above; but afortnight later it will be impossible to pass the Kaibar and Hannekcataracts, except in small boats	The action of Ginnis of 30.12.1885 wasfought on the slopes to the west of the village. Bank mostly lowand even. Palm trees; more cultivation.
Amara Rapid	3	118	Desert sand comes right down toriver	Insignificant except at low Nile; causedby ridge of broken rocks crossing river bed.
Arneti	5	123		Island 3 miles long, lying in curve,which river here makes to the south.
Sagiet El Abd	4	127	Desert road arrives from N.E. acrosscurve. Here a desert road strikes west to Selima (75 miles) and theArbain road.
Yabri and Sai Island	3	130		North end of Sai Island. West channelunsurveyed, keep in east channel.
Koyeka	5	135 217	Open desert, almost flat for manymiles		Koyeka district; tomb of Sheikh Idris.Ground gradually rises to E.
Jebel Abud	5	140		South end of Sai Island	Abud district. Jebel Abud 1,598 feet, 4miles inland.
Suarda	2	142 228			Capture here of Dervish stores by Cavalryafter Firket. Rich district.
Gurjan Tau	14	156	Ancient temple.
Koya	8	164 264	Desert road leads due south 28 miles (nowater) to rejoin the Nile at Fakir Benti. Proposed route forrailway, 1871	Channel here turns sharp to the east andafter 10 miles curves S.E.
Abu Sari	15	179 288		Islands become more frequent, and thechannel turns again definitely to the south	Desert road from Kosha (36 miles withoutwater, excellent going), reaches river here.
Dalgo	12	191 307			Large and important district. Railwayhere rejoins river from Kosha. Hd. Qrs. of the Mahas District
Kaibar Cataract (Kajbar, Kagbar)	12	203 325	Banks even and low, but rocky	Thick (450 yards) low ridge of blackgranite here crosses the river, 1,200 yards wide here. Difficulteven for small boats at low Nile; it presents practically nodifficulty at high Nile	Banks low. Palm trees. The railway herecrosses the river and takes a short cut to Kerma.
	4	207		Channel bends sharp to west	Desert road cuts across S.W. to Abu Fatma(18 miles).
Arduan	5	212		Arduan Island. Rocky. 9 miles by 4. Southchannel narrow and unnavigable. Keep to left bank.
Fakr Benti	10	222	Fakr Benti	River winds through broken, rockycountry.
Jebel Alibersi and Jebel Sadek	6	228	Jebel Alibersi, overlooking river		Jebel Sadek, 1,220 feet, 3 milesinland.
Shaban Rapids and 3rd or HannekCataract	1	229 368	Banks low and generally even andcultivated	Four miles of broken water; keep to eastchannel except during highest Nile. 7 to 9 different rapids, theone at the foot being the worst. Not serious at high Nile. Fall, 18feet altogether. The numerous islands are fertile.	Bank broken by low ridges of bouldergranite.
Hannek	2	231	Village.
Simit Island	2	233		Large island, 3 by 1½ miles. Keep to westchannel.
Badin Island	8	241	Country becomes much flatter	Island 6 miles by 1. Keep to eastchannel.
Abu Fatma	2	243 391			Rocky and enclosed. The desert road whichleft the river at mile 207 here rejoins it. British Garrison here1885. Boundary between Halfa and Dongola Provinces.
Kerma (Rest house)	3	246 396		The Nile between here and Dongola becomesunnavigable for steamers from March to June. There is at othertimes a fortnightly postal steamer between Kerma and Merowe; thisruns all the year round from Dongola to Merowe	Terminus of the railway. Transport toDongola is continued by land at low Nile, and by steamer at highNile. P.T.O. Chief market day Weds.
Hafir (Rest house)	2	248	British camp here Summer, 1885. Actionhere 20.9.1896. Egyptian Army crossed from right to left bank.Market on Saturdays		Village of Kerma.
Argo Island (Rest house)	4	252 405		North end of Argo Island, perhaps therichest soil in the Sudan. Thickly populated and highly cultivated.The head man is called the Melik (King) of Argo. The east channelis narrow and navigable for 3 months only. Numerous fertile islandsin west channel. Hd. Qrs. of a District	There are 8 or 10 small villages on E.bank behind Argo Island; cultivation carried on chiefly for the“Demera” crop.
Zawerat	19	271	Highly cultivated	South end of Argo.
			Chief ferry between W. Bank and S. end ofIsland, where boats can always be found
Dongola (Rest house)	9	280 450	Better known to the nativesas El Ordi. Lies 2 miles to the north of the older pre-mahdisttown. Former capital of the Province. British garrison thereMar.-July, 1885. 1,000 inhabitants. Post and telegraph office,residence of a British inspector, and Headquarters of District andresidence of Mamur. The old forts and earthworks built by MustafaPasha Yawar are still to be seen stretching round the town	Numerous sandbanks, sometimes causingdifficulty in landing. A large island now lies opposite thetown.
				Between Dongola andthe foot of the 4th cataract the river runs through a plain. Bankslow almost throughout; no obstacles to navigation except sand banksat low and half Nile. From Dongola to Ambugol there is a broadstrip of cultivation on one or other bank, rarely on both at thesame time. From Ambugol the cultivated land gradually increases inextent; both banks are cultivated, and the Dar Shaigia is richerand better cultivated than any district south of the Fayum; thevegetation here is quite tropical in character, and all the islandsare cultivated. Between Belal and Abu Hamed there is littlecultivation, except in the Monasir (El Salamat) country. There arenumerous villages on either bank, and the mud houses are allwhitewashed and of a better class than those below Dongola,generally a short distance behind the cultivated strip. The weatheris variable in October; before reaching Debba the north wind issometimes lost. Debba to Abu Hamed is a warmer district than thecountry below and above these places. Prevailing winds from thenorth; native boats have to be towed between the two places named.The banks themselves are good for towing, but difficulties arise asthe river falls. The most serious obstacles are the Sagias, whichin some cases are only 50 to 100 yards apart.
			Govt. Mosque, about 60 permanent shopsand 3 or 4 flour mills
Irtidi	1	281	Village. Good road alongside river andtelegraph line	From Dongola to Debba the river isshallow, but clear of any serious obstructions all the year round.A few isolated rocks appear at low Nile.
Khannag	2	283	Village.
Sheikh Sherif	1	284	Small village, ¾ of a mile from river.Intervening space highly cultivated. The road from Dongola runsover alluvial soil at some distance from the river, on theoutskirts of the cultivation		The east bank is desert sand, and almostentirely uncultivated.
Kajatti	5	289	Name disappearing. Large tomb east ofroad. Few scattered huts.
Ordi El Monfok	1	290	Ruined village; good grazing	Name disappearing.
Kasr Wad Nimiri	1	291	A stone ruin on a mound overlooking theriver. The gravel ridge, which has skirted the road all the way,here comes down to the river. From the last station the river banksare lined with palms and the ground covered with coarse grass	Islands of Lebab, Ab Turki, and Derer.Lebab Island is also spoken of as “Geziret Ashraf,” and was thebirthplace of the Mahdi.
Sahaba	5	296	Rocky ridge widens out; good campingground; gradually coming under cultivation.
Akri	4	300	Stone village.
Teit, Taetti	1	301 483	A stone village over a mile in length,situated a ¼ of a mile from the river. Between it and the river isa narrow strip of cultivation. The best camping ground is to thesouth of the village.
Saati Beshir	3	304	Domed tomb. Hills within 500 yards ofriver.
Urbi	5	309	A large village built where the hillsleave the river, leaving a good open space for camping	Island of same name opposite village veryhighly cultivated.
Sori	4	313	A long scattered village on the riverbank. A strip of cultivation runs along the river; there is,however, a break in it just north of the large tomb. This is asuitable place for a camp.
Sali	4	317	The hills, which had widened out oppositeSori, here come nearly down to the river, leaving room for ashallow camp. A small scattered village with strip of cultivation. The roadfrom Urbi to this place runs over a sandy plain with scatteredmimosa		Malwad opposite south end of Sali.
Khandak (Rest house)	3	320	Headquarters of District, and residenceof Mamur. Built on a stony mound overlooking the river. Eight and ahalf hours’ steaming from Dongola (October). The town could beeasily defended against a force coming down river or across thedesert from the west. Broken mud wall on west and north sides. Oldsun-dried brick fort in middle of town on the bank; good storage,accommodation for 200 men (British); commands town and approaches.Also 4 well-built brick houses in the town, capable of housing 300men. Town of mud huts clean and well built. Market day on Saturday.Four hundred and forty sagias in the district, each representing 4families. Much wood in the district. Road west into desert toMarghum, etc. Remains of many churches
Shebatut, or Shabadud	1	321	About 20 houses, 400 yards from river, atfoot of low hills. Cultivation on banks 200 yards wide. Good spacebetween cultivation and village. Best camping ground at south endof village. This spot was extensively used as a camping groundduring the Nile Expedition. Light Camel Regiment here, Spring of1885
Dambo	2	323	Fifteen houses ½ mile from the river; nocultivation. Good camping ground east of village; mimosa scrub.Banks shelving; compact village, 40 houses; good landing; numerouspalms and acacias
Goled Bahri and Gibli	6 2	329 331	Three groups of huts extending over 1mile, ¾ mile from river. Situated in broad alluvial plain, runningdown to river. Monday market; mass of cultivation; 2¾ hours’ steamfrom Khandak; considerable supply of wood, the mimosa trees growingto a great height. On leaving El Goled, the road runs at some distance from the riveracross a rich alluvial plain (cultivated)	Komi Island (cultivated)	East bank gradually becomes moreinhabited and cultivated.
Wad Abbas	3	334		Nani Island	Desert road leads east from Wad Abbas tonear Merowe. (76 miles.)
Rumi	2	336	Villages Bahri and Gibli	Rumi Island 2 miles on	Stone ruins 2 miles inland tonorth-east.
Bakri	4	340	On nearing this place the ground becomesmore sandy and covered with mimosa scrub. It extends for over 1mile, amidst palms and cultivation. All supplies plentiful. Goodcamping ground to south. Saturday market.
El Khelaiun, or Kheleiwa	4	344	From Bakri to this spot (which consistsonly of a poor hut or two) the river banks have been lined withcoarse grass, outside of which is a strip of sand dunes and mimosa,with the road outside this. Cultivation here takes the place of thegrass. Sand dunes still continue. Site of old Christian church.Stones with Greek inscriptions found		Commencement of highly cultivated Lattidistrict, 3 to 4 miles broad, with numerous villages,e.g., Amentogo, Arab Hag, Kodokol, and Megabda. Quantitiesof date palms and wood.
Kankalab	1	345	Village of 30 tukls, on a high bankoverlooking a broad strip of cultivation, which intervenes betweenit and the river. Good camping ground 1 mile south	River shallow. Former site of GhaddarIsland	District narrows down as hills approachriver from north-east to Ghaddar, etc.
Old Dongola, locally pronounced“Tóngălo”	6	351 564	Dongola Gharbi. Well cultivated, manytrees; shelving banks and good landing. A long, scattered village,separated from the river by a broad strip of cultivation. Betweenthe village and the desert is a tract covered with mimosa and “deadsea fruit.” Fairly well wooded. Wednesday market	Baja Island	Old Dongola, on the right bank, is adeserted town of ruined mud houses, containing not more than 30able-bodied men. The people live in the island of Hamur, a littlehigher up stream, and in the cultivated districts on the west bank;much wood in surrounding country; 422 sagias. It is built on arocky height, overlooking the river and the desert to the east. Itis capable of easy defence, and might be held by a very smallforce. In rear of the town are the ruins of a once strong fort. Severesand storms are frequent. There is one mosque built over an oldChristian church commanding the river, village, and surroundingcountry. Cliffs, old sandstone, 30-70 feet high.
El Ghaba	4	355	A small village with a clump of trees.There is a break in the cultivation here, and space on the riverfor good camping ground. Markets Tuesdays and Fridays	Tangussi Island, very fertile; 8 mileslong. Narrow east channel	Fertile stretch opposite Tangussi.
Abu Gussi	1	356	Was an important village, with roadstriking south-west to Omdurman and El Fasher. British Garrison,1885. Now deserted; river eating away banks and cultivation	Good landing west bank. On leaving AbuGussi, the river changes its course to nearly east and west. Theleft bank to Debba is highly cultivated, and a little vegetation isvisible on the right bank.
Giref	4	360	The country between Abu Gussi and Debbais hard, sandy going, with low hills on the right hand, and broadpatches of cultivation on the left. A desert road to Mahtul, 40miles, here leaves the river.
Karad or Kurot	9	369	Just north of Debba; 45 sagias; steepbanks. Good landing for all boats. General Brackenbury’s brigadewas quartered here during the spring of 1885	Argi Island	Argi district, cultivated.
Debba (Rest house)	2	371 596	Consists of old field works of 430 yardsperimeter, enclosing a few huts. Was garrisoned in 1884 by 250Bashi Buzuks. Headquarters of the District, and residence of Mamur.Wheat, barley, dura and wood procurable from neighbouringcultivated districts. A direct road to Omdurman starts from hereviâ Abu Gerad. The position is excellent, the fort being surroundedon the south by an open sandy plain, covered by slight bush, andabutting on the river on the north, where there is a good landingplace, steamers and heavily laden boats being able to come closealongside. Cultivation along the banks of the river recommencesabout a mile distant, east and west of the fort. The Wadi Melh, adry shallow valley, debouches on to the plain, where its course is lost in the sand. Byfollowing up the course of this valley, the old and now little usedKordofan caravan road is joined, leading to Bir Mahtul and ElObeid. A commercial centre (formerly) for ivory and gum from, andfor European merchandise for Kordofan and Darfur. Geologicalformation, Nubian sandstone, acted on by heat, and metamorphosed onthe surface. Petrified wood is found in great quantities	River here 750 yards wide; coursesouth-east and north-west. Various cultivated islands such as Gira(373), Tambanarti (382), Ganeti (391, keep to north bank),Jigarnarti (397), and Husseinarti (404), dot the riverhereabouts	Right bank bare as a rule, withcultivated patches at intervals. Ruined castle at Abkor (380).
Abu Dom	16	387 623	The road passes over sand and some slightsandhills while passing Abu Dom. An important village of about 300men; the houses are scattered along the edge of the sand; there are30 water-wheels and a few palms. Cultivation: dura, wheat, Indiancorn. Market on Wednesdays. The most southerly point on the riverbefore reaching Berber. A more northerly course is then taken. Theleft bank continues most rich in cultivation; wood abounds. Nextdistricts in order: Abu Kleiwat, Jura (with ruins of Coptic church,road makes short cut to east), Artimoga, Fakrin Koti, MansurKoti	River channel now curves, and runssouth-west and north-east. Easy navigation to foot of 4thCataract.	East bank becomes more cultivated.Districts of Affat, Abseit, Nizezi, Neriko and Difar. Rest house atAffat.
Hetani or Tani	16	403	Rocky Hill Jebel Taraka 1 mile to south;outlying spurs from J. El Nob 5 miles to south. Old castle (GalatHatani) 1 mile on, in ruins, with rock well. Narrow road, camelssingle file, was held by Emir Heddai against Mudir of Dongola, in1884
—	6	409	Camp of General Dormer’s Brigade, 1885.Bush gets thinner, road descends to—		Kori and Takar districts. Bank fairlycultivated. Districts El Bar, El Barsa, Karafab (420).
Ambugol	4	413 665	Large village, standing ½ mile back. Opencountry around. Branch road to Korti. Metemma road starts fromhere. Friday market. The river bank from here to Merowe is wellwooded throughout, and the road during the whole distance runs overa sandy plain sparsely covered with mimosa scrub		El Arag, Hajeir, Magal, Bakhit, with hilland ruins (431). Low rocky hills in distance.
Gowari	2	415	A compact village of many houses. Theroad from Ambugol runs over an alluvial plain sparsely covered withmimosa scrub. No cultivation along the river banks, and the groundis everywhere favourable for camping. A few palms to the south ofthe village.
Korti[24] (Rest house)	1	416 670	Two villages: one on the river, and one 1mile inland. Palms, mimosa, and cultivation along the river. A lowsand ridge runs parallel to the river, at a distance of 1 mile fromit. Sunday market. Steep banks, 15 feet high. Advanced base of NileExpedition, 1884-5. River banks now mostly cultivated, includingthick mimosa scrub in parts. Road to Jakdul and Metemma starts fromhere. The W. Mogaddam joins the Nile here. Headquarters ofMamuria.
Ghoreiba	3	419	Fifty well-built houses. No cultivationbetween here and El Basa, 3 miles on. Passing Usli (426) arriveat—
Gureir	12	431	Scattered village, extending for nearly 8miles. River banks deeply cultivated almost its entire length. Goodcamping grounds are to be found on the water’s edge just before thevillage is entered from the south, and at its northern extremity,and at a point 6 miles from its southern end. The cultivation lieson the low ground formed by mud deposits at the salient angles ofthe river, the village being situated on the original bank; thewater is consequently only accessible at the re-entrant angles.Saturday market.
Hannek or Korti district	1	432	Districts of Korei, Arak, andTangassi	Abu Rannat Island (436) 3 miles long	Large village of mud huts. Much wood ofconsiderable size. Then come Magashi, El Zoma, Tulbenab, andKajabi.
Tangassi	9	441 710	A large scattered village with deepcultivation in a salient angle of the river. Tuesday market, themost important in province and well known throughout the Sudan.Police post.
El Debeiba	2	443	Small village with wide stripcultivation		Desert sandstone rock comes down to theright bank, forming cliffs 40 to 60 feet high, extending for about2½ miles along the bank.
Abu Dom Sanam (site of ancient town ofNapata)	3	446	A scattered village at the confluence ofthe Khor Abu Dom with the Nile. The cultivation runs a considerabledistance inland along the Khor, which delivers a considerablestream during the rainy season. Surrounded by dense vegetation andtrees. A road from here joins the Dugiyet-Berber road. Supplies ofall kinds plentiful.
Merowe (capital)	1	447 719	Merowe. Headquarters ofprovince and residence of the Governor. It is practically on thesite of the 1896 camp of Abu Dom Sanam. The town has yet to bebuilt. At present it only consists of about 30 houses, includingoffices, telegraph, etc.		Old village of Merowe. Advanced postduring summer of 1885, under Commander Julian Baker, R.N.
					Will be terminus ofthe branch line from Abu Hamed. From Affat to Merowe boats willhave to be towed by tugs, as they are unable to navigate this bitof river against wind and stream.
			Desert road to S.E. to Jakdul

RECAPITULATORY TABLE OF DISTANCES.

	Intermediate.		From Halfa.
	Miles.	Kilometres.	Miles.	Kilometres.
Faras Island	—	—	20	32
Halfa Camp	20	32	—	—
Foot of 2nd Cataract	6½	10½	6½	10½
Head of „ „	6½	10½	13	21
Akasha	72	116	85	137
Kosha	28	45	113	182
Dalgo	78	125	191	307
Kaibar Cataract	12	19	203	325
Third (Hannek) Cataract	26	42	229	368
Dongola	51	82	280	450
Debba	91	146	371	596
Korti	45	72	416	668
Merowe	31	50	447	719

Section 2.—Merowe to Khartoum.

Sub-Section (a). Merowe to Abu Hamed.

The distinguishing feature of the river between Merowe and Abu Hamed is the difficulty of navigation, and also of communications along either bank. A variety of rapids, mostly impassable except at high Nile, form the 4th Cataract, which extends practically from Belal to Shirri, a distance of about 67 miles, whilst there are little or no cultivation or supplies, except in patches on either bank. This (Rapids) portion of the river was ascended in whale boats by most of the River Column in 1885, and the right bank was traversed by General Hunter’s flying column in 1897, when proceeding to attack Abu Hamed. Otherwise it is not now generally in use for communications,[25] owing to these obvious difficulties. A telegraph line now connects Merowe with Abu Hamed.

[The reader who may wish for further detail than that given below is referred to “N.O.” 1st and 2nd editions (1897 and 1898), which give some additional reports by slightly different routes.]

Remarks on the Shaigia Cataracts.

(Lieut. Poore, R.N., October, 1884.)

The prevailing winds are north-easterly and boats can rarely use their sails, excepting occasionally at high Nile when a southerly wind may blow for a few days.

Boats leaving Ambugol for Abu Hamed invariably have to tow the whole way.

The pilots state the average passage of a nugger[26] from Merowe to Abu Hamed as being from 35 to 40 days, but they appear to perform the journey in parties of about 10 boats, in order to supply their own hauling labour, thus considerably increasing the time of passage.

Nuggers generally leave Debba on the trip to Abu Hamed 20 days before high Nile and try to time their arrival at Abu Hamed as soon as possible after the river begins to fall.

Steamers should not leave Merowe for Abu Hamed later than 10 days after high Nile.

Nuggers should not leave Merowe for Abu Hamed later than 15 days after high Nile.

There are men in the village of Bela at the foot of the Gerendid Cataract and in a few of the villages near Merowe who are acquainted with the different cataracts, but would seem to be more useful as guides to point out the different channels than as pilots, their knowledge of boats or nuggers seeming very limited.

It would be advisable to take pilots for the cataracts from the rais of nuggers.

Supplies between the cataract of Gerendid and Abu Hamed are very scanty, a few scattered patches of date palms, wheat and dura constituting all cultivation.

Between the different cataracts the banks appear to be rocky and badly adapted for towing. The stream is swift with frequent sharp bends and the river studded with rocks and small islands.

Confusion may arise from the custom of the pilots and natives in continuing the terms east and west as regards the river banks after the river has turned to the northward at Ambugol; the right bank being invariably termed the east and vice versâ without reference to the direction of the river. Thus, between Ambugol and Abu Hamed, a wind which is termed by the pilots south-westerly is in reality north-easterly.

Report on Passage of 4th Cataract by Nuggers and Gayassas.

(Captain W. Doran, August, 1897.)

The following is a report on the river between Kassingar and Amari, together with remarks on points that have come under my observation:—

Nuggers with a strong favourable wind can get up to Meshra El Abiad, but there is a strong current below Meshra El Abiad for about 3 or 4 miles, and the track (on the right bank) is rocky, or much obstructed by sunt trees.

Meshra El Abiad presents no great difficulty. About 50 men will pull a nugger of 200 ardebs through in half an hour.

For about 3 miles after leaving Meshra El Abiad, the channel on the right bank presents no difficulty, though the stream is strong, and the banks steep and covered with sunt bushes, which at high Nile will impede towing.

About 5 miles from Meshra El Abiad the banks become rocky, and rapids are met with; the water being very bad, and rocks numerous. I crossed this rapid, which is about a mile in length, and extends to just below the village of Shebabik, in half a gale. Otherwise, I should think the passage would be difficult, as the rocks on the right bank are very steep, and without a strong wind portage would probably be necessary. From Shebabik village, by following a channel on the right bank past the village of Abu Haraz, good water is met with for about 6 miles, till the cataract of Halfaya is reached.

From Halfaya to the village of Amari, a distance of about 2 miles, the river is very difficult, tortuous, and rocky, towing being necessary throughout.

From Amari, I am informed, the river is not difficult.

It must be understood that these remarks refer to the river as I found it. Any rise or fall may make difficult places easy, and vice versâ.

I would venture to make the following suggestions for future river convoys:—

1. That only boats of 150 ardebs should be sent up at present. Large boats are unwieldy, cause great delay, break ropes, and run the risk of losing stores. For example, one of my boats of 300 ardebs took 4 hours to get up a place which boats of 150 ardebs crossed in an hour. It broke two ropes, and was nearly wrecked on several occasions, besides being always a source of delay to the rest of the convoy. The exertion caused to the men in hauling these heavy boats is very great, much greater than that of hauling two boats of half the capacity.

2. Each convoy should consist of not more than 20 boats under a British officer, and should have with it two companies (200 men) of an Egyptian battalion to haul the boats over the cataracts, and in the ordinary stream when the wind is unfavourable. If the water proves easy beyond this place, Amari, these men might return to Merowe from here by return convoy. Men who are good swimmers should be selected, if possible, and, as the work entails great exertion on the men—most of them having to stand work in the water all day—the companies should be relieved after one or two trips.

Unless considered necessary for safety, these men should not bring arms or ammunition with them, except just sufficient for a small guard, as these have to be portaged across bad places, causing delay.

The large cooking pot, “kazan,” is not suitable for these occasions, as men are often separated on islands from the rest of the convoy at night time, and are unable to get their proper food after a hard day’s work. Something of the Flanders kettle type would be better.

3. Each convoy should be provided with four strong hemp ropes of at least 200 fathoms each, in addition to the smaller ropes carried by each boat. These latter should be inspected before the convoy starts.

A small boat of about 50 ardebs would also be most useful to enable the officer in charge of the convoy to go up and down his convoy, and also to assist in the portage of stores from the nearer boats when they get stuck in shallow places or rocks.

Report on the Passage of Gunboats from Merowe to Abu Hamed, 9th to 29th August, 1897 (vide 1489, Merowe and Abu Hamed Sheets.)[27]

(Commander Colin Keppel, R.N.)

To Kasinjar on right bank, river broad, navigation simple. No obstacles. Thence to Kenisha, navigation easy.

At Meshra El Abiad there is a difficult, narrow passage between two rocky islands, with a very sharp turn. Water very rapid, which continues until Um Deras Island is reached.

N.B.—The cataract marked on the official map as El Dermi was not recognisable at this time of the year.

Um Deras Island is practically at the foot of what is termed the Gab El Abd, or 4th Cataract, it was from thence that a course by the left bank was followed by the river column in 1884-85. This channel was found to be so difficult and dangerous at high Nile, it was decided to examine the channel by the right bank. This was found to be more easily navigable for steamers at this time of the year. It should, however, be noted that this channel, though navigable for steamers at high Nile, and undoubtedly the only channel to be followed with safety at that time, would be impassable at any other time of the year. As at low Nile, many parts of it are dry.

From Um Deras Island to the point marked Khor Abu Herejil (north bank) (A),[27] no great difficulties are encountered.

At this point all guns, ammunition stores, and heavy gear of every description were taken out of the steamers and portaged to the camp of El Bana, a distance of about 2 miles.

The following arrangements were then made for passing the steamers over this cataract:—

A wire hawser was fastened round the ship. Two hawsers were then led out of the steamer, one for hauling, and other to serve as a guy to steady her, and to prevent her bow from being taken round by the force of water.

About 600 yards up-stream, at the junction of a smaller channel (B), these hawsers were slipped, and the steamer reached the southernmost point of the next bend (C).

From this point to a point 1,100 yards up-stream (D) the greatest difficulties were met with, owing to the necessity of passing ropes on to the island 300 yards up-stream (E). As many men as could swim had to cross over to this island. The steamer was then hauled up to the southern end of the island.

The rope had now to be passed from the island (E) to point (D).

At point (D) the haulage became very difficult, as the river thence, for 600 yards, to point (G), in mid-stream, is intersected by isolated rocks, upon which it was necessary to have groups of men in order to pass the rope from one rock to another. From point (G) the hawser was then led to the mainland. Guy ropes were used throughout.

After passing the rock marked (G) powerful steamers, of the “Zafir” class, were able to steam, without further haulage, to El Bana, but otherwise it was necessary to use ropes for hauling up to El Bana.

On leaving El Bana, the channel on the right bank was followed, and though the water was rapid in places, rushing between numerous small islands, no great difficulty was encountered until arrival at the foot of the Geridu (Geriddo) Rapids (3¼ miles up). Here it was necessary to tie up to the bank in order that each steamer might pass over the rapid separately.

It will be seen that the channel takes a very sharp turn here (between points A and B); a large volume of water rushes with considerable force between an island (440 yards long, with a rock at the west end) and the south bank (a promontory on the south bank), where a rope was attached to a rock, and then gradually eased off to let the bow go round.

From Geridu to Hosh El Geruf the channel is devoid of obstacles.

The channel taken was by the right, until El Shwadiyat was reached, whence it crosses to the left bank and continues thus as far as Rakabat El Gamal; here the river becomes a maze of small islands. The channel continues by the left (?) bank of Dulka Island (known by the natives as Dirbi), smaller islands being left on the starboard side.

The current thence became very strong, and continued so until Kirbekan Rapids was reached.

At the bottom of these rapids the steamers were stopped, but the cataract, after examination, having been considered passable without haulage, each steamer went over it separately, in order to prevent any risk of one hampering another.

The main stream was then followed as far as Uss Rapids; here the volume of water was very great. From the top of Uss Rapids the channel followed was by the left bank as far as Sherari Island, whence it passes by the right bank of that island, and thence between it and Shirri Island to the right bank of the river.

The river now becomes very broad, and navigation is practicable on either bank from Salamat to Hebi. From Hebi to Abu Selem the channel is by the left bank. In Huella Rapids there was a strong rush of water.

The river now becomes much intersected by small islands, and, though navigation is not very difficult, skilful pilotage is necessary.

Wood was found in the following places:—

El Bana.	Salamat.
Hosh El Geruf.	Abu Selem.
Uss village.	Left bank, just below Mograt Island.

Itinerary (Left Bank) from Abu Dom Sanam to opposite Hebi (or Hebba)

(Major Slade, R.A., February, 1885.)

Names of Places.	Distances in miles.		Description.
	Inter-mediate.	Total from Merowe.
El Dueim	3	3	A small scattered village; a largewhite-domed tomb makes it visible for some distance.
Sagag	1	4	A compact hamlet, mostly of straw huts, ¼mile from the river. The banks, which for the last 4 miles havebeen bare, here become studded with palms.
Gereif	1	5	A collection of wells and sagias fromwhich the ground is cultivated. The uncultivated ground is coveredwith coarse grass. A low range of hills here touches the south ofthe road.
Nurri	2	7	This village extends a considerabledistance inland. Near it, to the south of the road are 11 pyramids.Soon after leaving them the alluvial ground over which the road hashitherto passed gives place to sand.
Belal	1	8	A large well-built village. The road hereruns close to the river between small patches of cultivation and atrack of very broken rocky ground, which comes to within ¼ mile ofthe river. This stony tract is about 50 feet above the alluvialground. At the east end of the village a break in the cultivationleaves room for a small camp on the river bank.
Khor-el-Sorawi	3	11	A dry watercourse, 20 yards wide. Itshows signs of out-pouring a considerable stream in the rainyseason. 1 mile further to the east the river makes a sharp bend tothe north-east, the edge of broken ground continuing to run in aneasterly direction. The road takes an intermediate course across aplain of firm gravel which lies between the rocks and theriver.
Kanisa	1	12	A small village ½ mile to the north ofthe road, at the foot of a small rocky hill, in an angle of theriver.
El Dugaiyet	1	13	A scattered village. The broken groundhere again comes to within ½ mile of the river. There is a goodcamping ground on the river bank near the village. The road to BirSani and Berber here branches off. It runs at first over very rockyground. There are said to be 90 islands in the river between thisplace and Belal. The cultivation of the district is for the mostpart on these islands.
Hamdab	5	18	A very long village with a fair amount ofcultivation. The road from Dugaiyet runs between the broken groundand thick bush. Just before reaching Hamdab the rocky ground opensout considerably at the mouth of the Khor El Shungui. A goodcamping ground on the river bank. The road described from Hamdabonwards was followed by part of River Column, 1885.
			Dates, dura, cotton, dukhn, and barleygrown. The road to Berber leaves the river about 2 miles belowHamdab, crossing the rocky ground at a point marked by two solitarydom palms.
			Good camping ground for a large force,commanded by rocky ridge, 400 yards from river.
Jebel Kulgeili	4	22	The road as far as Jebel Kulgeili skirtsthe belt of cultivation, which is interspersed with a few nativehouses. It is commanded the whole way by a low ridge of rocks, at adistance from the river varying from 50 to 500 yards.
			Jebel Kulgeili, 400 feet high, commandsthe surrounding country for a distance of several miles. The directdesert road to Berti (19 miles) leaves the river at the foot ofthis hill.
			The road, after leaving Kulgeili, becomesrocky and much cut up by ravines and sandy khors, graduallybecoming more difficult as the islands of Auli are approached. Theriver between Hamdab and Auli is quite open, and free from brokenwater.
Auli	8	30	At Auli the cataract of Terai commences;but it is not difficult. There are several houses and muchcultivation on the islands and on the left bank. Good campinggrounds are to be found.
El Kabur	3	33	Cultivation extends along the road,broken at times by rocky and barren ground. At El Kabur, which issituated at the end of the nest of islands which forms the 4th orEdermi Cataract, there is scanty cultivation and a few houses.
			From Auli to El Kabur by water the boatchannel follows the right bank. There is one difficult gate, abouttwo-thirds of the way up, at which heavy stores have to beportaged. The country to the east of the road along the left bankis very rocky and broken, and nearly impracticable forcavalry.
Kabeinat (ruined forts)	1	34	The road leaves the river at El Kabur andfollows the bed of a sandy khor until an old ruined fort built upona rocky prominence commanding the river is reached. The rocky andbroken ground skirts the river between El Kabur and Kabeinat, andis impracticable for cavalry. Opposite this ruined fort there isanother of a similar kind. The river between these two forts isvery narrow, and forms the commencement of the KabeinatCataract.
Mushani ridge	5	39	The road skirts the river bank; butalthough the country is more open than that previously travelled itis broken at parts by rocky ridges and deep ravines. Much acaciaand many dom palms are found.
			Kabeinat Cataract presents no difficultyto navigation, and although the current is rapid, no broken wateroffering serious impediments to the passage of boats, is met withuntil the Gab El Abd Gate, 2 miles above the ruined forts, isreached. Here there is a direct fall of water which, however, canbe avoided by going over to the right bank. From this point toMushani ridge, which may be called the upper end of Gab El AbdCataract, the river presents most serious difficulties. Trackingfrom rocks and islands has invariably to be resorted to, and at lowNile it is doubtful whether even light boats could be taken up thispart of the river.
			Mushani Ridge commands the country to thenorth-east as far as the distant hills overlooking Berti. The ridgeruns at right angles to the river, and the rocks and boulders inwhich it terminates come down close to the left bank of the river.There is but little cultivation along this part of the river,except on the islands of Umderas and Amri, the former of which ispassed just after leaving Kabeinat, and at the village of Shebabikon the right bank opposite the lower end of Umderas Island.
Warrak	1	40	There is a large tomb and a few detachedhuts at this point, with a certain amount of cultivation, very goodcamping grounds, much mimosa, and many dom-palm trees.
			The cataract of Um Hababoa is here metwith, lying between Kandi Island and the left bank. It is verydifficult, and it is supposed, from the remains of wreckage foundlying about, it was near this point that Ismail Pacha abandoned hisboats in 1820.
			This cataract can be avoided at high Nileby going between the islands of Amri and Kandi, the passage betweenwhich islands was nearly dry in February, 1885.
			A track leads from Warrak to Berti,across rocky and broken ground; but it is not much shorter thanthat generally followed.
Gamra	2	42	The road skirts the river throughconsiderable cultivation, mostly dukhn. At Gamra, which is oppositethe upper end of Kandi Island, there are several native huts, andgood camping grounds can everywhere be found.
			The river between Warrak and Gamra is notdifficult; but there is a very swift current, and tracking isnecessary at certain points from the left bank.
			One mile beyond Gamra the road leaves theriver to avoid the rocky kopjes which command the foot and mark thecommencement of the Rahami Cataract. It strikes the river again 2miles below Berti. It is very rocky, and much cut up by deep khorsand ravines.
			A broad, sandy khor leaves the river 1½miles above Gamra, and runs away to the east until lost in thedesert.
			By following this khor until it strikesthe Kulgeili-Berti road, the mountains and rocky countryoverlooking Berti can be avoided, and Berti entered at its upperend.
			The river between the foot of RahamiCataract and Berti offers most serious obstacles to navigation. Theboat channel lies along the right bank.
Berti	6	48	Berti is a scattered village extendingover a length of 2 miles. It is situated mostly on an island which,however, forms part of the mainland at low Nile. The cultivation isvery rich and plentiful, and barley, dura, cotton, wheat, beans,dates, and dukhn grow in great abundance. This is the boundarybetween Dongola and Berber Provinces.
			The lower end of the village is situatedin rocky ground, but the larger portion lies in the open.
			The direct road from Jebel Kulgeilienters near the house of Suleiman Wad Gamr, about half-way up thevillage.
			Berti is the head-quarters of the Monasirtribe, and is on the boundary between Berber and DongolaProvinces.
			The island of Ishashi is passed justbefore reaching Berti, and is very richly cultivated.
Jebel Kirbekan	8	56	Between Berti and El Kirbekan there areseveral pieces of broken water, but nothing worthy of the term“cataract” is to be met with until opposite Dulka Island, where thecataract of Ragabat El Gamal obstructs the river; it is notdifficult. Boni Island lies on the right side of the river, abreastof and overlapping Dulka Island, and between it and the right bankthe cataract of Abu Sayal is situated. It is impassable at lowNile. In the centre of Boni Island, and in prolongation of theKirbekan ridge, is aremarkable round-topped mountain, which can be seen for severalmiles before Boni Island is reached.
			On leaving the belt of cultivation atBerti, the track leaves the river and winds through a mass of rocksand boulders until it again strikes the river opposite a smallisland, on which are the remains of a ruined castle (Castle Camp ofRiver Column); distance from Berti, 6 miles. Scant cultivation anda good camping ground for a small force are here to be found.
			After leaving the bank opposite theruined castle, the track again quits the river and follows the bedof a sandy khor, interrupted in parts by belts of rocks andboulders until the river is again struck opposite Dulka Island (6½miles from Castle Camp), where there is a good camping groundamidst patches of cultivation. One and a half miles beyond thispoint the long razor-backed hill, running at right angles to thecourse of the Nile, and known as Jebel Kirbekan (300 feet), issituated. It completely blocks the road, but can be easily turnedby marching round its south-west extremity.
			The action of 10.2.85 took placehere.
El Kirbekan (village)	4	60	On leaving Jebel Kirbekan, the trackfollows the bed of a sandy khor, much broken in places by rocks,&c., for 4 miles, when the village of El Kirbekan, at the lowerentrance of the Shukuk Pass, is reached. Here there are a few mudhouses, palm trees, and some scant vegetation; barley, dura, anddukhn.
			The Wadi El Arku, which breaks up intoseveral outlets on nearing the river, comes out at this point, andit is here that the direct road to Abu Egli (78 miles),viâ the Jura Wells (48 miles), leaves the river.
Shukuk Pass (south end)	½	60½	The Shukuk Pass is entered immediatelyafter leaving El Kirbekan. The track leaves the river, and followsthe bed of a sandy khor, completely commanded by rocky heightsvarying from 20 feet to 100 feet, until Jebel Shukuk (350 feet) isreached. This mountain, with its conspicuous marble tops, marks thehalf-way through the Pass.
			Leaving Jebel Shukuk on the left-handside, the track inclines towards the river, the Pass becomesnarrower and more difficult, and at places it is impossible formore than one loaded camel to pass at a time. The track at thispoint is nearly impracticable, and it is with the greatestdifficulty that even horses can keep their footing.
Shukuk Pass (north end)	7½	68	The Shukuk Pass terminates suddenlyopposite the upper end of Uss Island, and at the commencement ofShoar Island, on which latter island there are many small villages,and much cultivation.
			The Shukuk Pass can be turned by leavingthe river at El Kirbekan, striking into the desert and skirting thewhole block of mountains through which the pass runs. This is aneasy half-day’s camel ride, but there is no water along theroad.
			Capt. Maxse says (1897) the pass is 7miles long; there is water at each end, and the going is good, withthe exception of ½ mile at the south-west entrance, and ¾ mile atthe north-east exit.
			During that first ½ mile at the entrancethe roadway is narrow and intricate, the path being strewn withquantities of small loose locks and boulders. These could becleared away. The labour thus expended would greatly facilitate allsubsequent movements of troops and transport.
			The ¾ mile of exit could similarly bemuch improved by manual labour. A little blasting would help stillmore here.
			There is, however, 100 yards of pathwayat the bottom of a deep cutting, which would defy ordinaryappliances. Still there is room for a loaded camel, and the removalof loose stones would make even this bit easy.
			The interior of the pass is mostly abroad, level, sandy khor, varying in width from 5 yards to 200yards.
			Should the pass be held by a stubbornfoe, it can be turned without difficulty from the east.
			The river between El Kirbekan and the endof the Shukuk Pass is clear and free from obstacles, though itflows at times between steep and rocky banks.
			Just as the upper end of Uss Island isreached, a small rapid has to be passed which is not, however, verydifficult.
			Both north and south of the Shukuk Passthere are numerous drawings of a rough description representingcattle, monkeys, and dogs, probably the same period as those atMurrat—2nd and 3rd century A.D. (Major SirH. Hill, Bart.).
Salamat	12	80	On debouching from the Shukuk Pass, thecountry commences to open out, and the hills to recede further fromthe river. The track follows the bank, which now commences tobecome more generally cultivated. Just before coming abreast ofShoar Island, thetrack ascends a rocky plateau, from the summit of which the firstview of Jebel Osma is obtained.
			The Island of Sherrai follows ShoarIsland, but it is very barren and rocky. One mile up this islandthe cataract of Tuari is passed. It is very difficult, and theriver is here much broken by rocks and shallows.
			After passing Tuari Cataract thecultivation increases still more, and sagias and groups of datepalms occur at frequent intervals along the bank. The fertile anddensely populated Island of Sherri succeeds that of Sherrari.
			The track continues along the bank of theriver, deviating occasionally to avoid clusters of rocks on a khor,until Salamat, opposite the upper end of Sherri Island, isreached.
			It is at this point that the cataract ofUm Deras is placed on the official maps, but no impediment tonavigation exists.
			Salamat, the principal village in theMonasir country, is a long straggling village of fairly-built mudhuts, the principal of which belong to Suleiman Wad Gamr and hisuncles, Omar and Abu Bakr. The country is very rich and there areseveral large groups of palm trees.
			The desert comes down to the bank of theriver on the right bank, just above Salamat.
			The track, after leaving Salamat, followsthe bank of the river until Jebel Osma is reached, 3 miles
Opposite Hebi, or Hebba	8	88	Leaving this solitary mountain on theleft, a detour of 1 mile is made, where the river is again struck.A broad sandy khor runs at the foot of Jebel Osma. The bank is nowfollowed until abreast of the village of Hebi, situated on theright bank. The road is good throughout. Patches of richcultivation are constantly met with, near groups of huts built inthe rocks and boulders, which are left on the right-hand side.
			There are two broad khors running intothe desert between Salamat and Jebel Osma. Mimosa or sûnt trees, ofan unusually large size, are met with along the road. The river isfree from obstruction.
			If going to Abu Hamed, it is advisable tocross the Nile opposite Hebi, where the river affords greatfacilities for crossing and swimming animals. The island of Kan andsmaller islands on the right bank may be utilized in the crossing.Lieut.-Colonel Stewart’s steamer, on its way from Khartoum, waswrecked on the island of Kan on the 18th September, 1884, and heand his party were treacherously murdered in the house of one namedOthman Fakri, commonly known as Othman Amian, in the village ofHebi.
			Hebi is a straggling village, composed ofsmall mud huts, built in the rocks. There are some conspicuous palmtrees on the bank of the river. The village was completelydestroyed by the British troops in February, 1885. There is muchcultivation in and near Hebi: dura, dukhn, barley, beans, etc.,growing in luxuriance.

Old Merowe to Abu Hamed, by the Right Bank of the Nile.

(Major Hon. M. G. Talbot, R.E., October, 1897.)

General Notes.

(i.)	The grazing for camels is moderate.
(ii.)	The places where water can be obtained depend on the time of the year. The bed of the river is the only source of supply.
(iii.)	No considerable elevation is crossed anywhere. Probably the road is never more than 100 to 150 feet above high Nile level.
(iv.)	Telegraph line follows road where not otherwise mentioned.
(v.)	No supplies obtainable on right bank.

Names of Places.	Distances in miles.		Description.
	Inter-mediate.	Total from Merowe.
Old Merowe			Village.
J. Barkal	4	4	Two miles inland. Ancient ruined pyramidsat base. Desert road from Dongola joins river here.
Kasinjar	4	8	Telegraph line crosses from left to rightbank here.
			Small fort.
Amrao	19	17	On leaving Kasinjar fort the road curvesround with the river, but gradually recedes from it. After 2 milesof good firm sand, with thin thorny scrub, the road turns away fromthe river to the north-east, passing to the right of Jebel Wad ElDuga, beyond which it turns N.N.E., over undulating, stony ground,draining to right. The going is good to 11 miles. At about 13 milesroad passes into a shallow basin draining east, from which itemerges at 14½ miles, and begins to descend to river by a bad pathdown and across small khors. Reaches river at Meshra El Abiad, agood watering place, at 15¾ miles. From 11 to 14½ miles the road,though generally good, is less so than before, and passes over bitsof stony ground, which would be very troublesome at night or evenfor a considerable body marching by day. From Meshra El Abiad roadruns along river bank; good going for camels, and some grass andthorn grazing. A few huts at Amrao, where there is plenty of roomto camp and some shade.
			There is also a road by the river, whichwas used by General Hunter’s column. It is said to be bad and totake baggage camels 5 hours.
Abu Haraz	9½	36½	Desert road leaves river at once andfollows telegraph wire for 3½ miles, when latter strikes off toright to river, and continues along it to Abu Haraz. To 3½ milesroad is good, in flat khor, few bushes on left, and giganticboulders on right. Keeps on straight to 8 miles, crossing plainstrewn with scattered ridges of granite boulders, and then turnsslightly to right down to river at Abu Haraz, 9 miles, where thereare a few ruined mud houses, and a clump of palms at 9½ miles, withcamp and shade for a battalion. No water along road.
Hosh El Geruf	12	48½	For 4½ miles road winds in and out of lowslaty and granitic ridges, with strip of good sand between, keepinggenerally near the river. It then leaves the river near Khor AbuHerejil and strikes across low slatey ridges to about 7½ miles,when it again strikes an arm of the river, dry at this season,along which it keeps for 1 mile, and then across broad, low openplateau to Hosh El Geruf. Like all the names in this part, Hosh ElGeruf is applied to a strip along the river, rather than to any onespot or village. The spot referred to here is a clump of palms, atthe foot of a low hill, near a little cultivation.
Salmia	14	62½	Road generally bad, quite unsuitable forwheels. It follows river at starting for 1 mile, and then, leavingit, winds up and down khors and over low rocky ridges almost thewhole way. From about 8½ to 10 miles is the worst bit. Here horsesshould be led in single file, after that road enters sandy plainand is good to 13 miles, when it commences to cross low ridgesagain. At 13½ miles the river is seen for the first time and theroad descends to Salmia, which consists of two or three groves ofpalms, with a field or two of dura and three or four houses ofMonasir. Room to camp three or four battalions, with a littleshade.
Dakhfili, south end	12½	75	Road leaves river at once, and for 1¾ milescrosses stony ground strewn with boulders. It then gets on to sandyand more open ground, and is good to 3 miles when it drops down tovalley of river by a bad path. Then very good sand to 4 miles,where it strikes river bank at Kamasab, just opposite Jebel Us.From here road is bad nearly to 6 miles, when a strip of good goingtakes it as far as Shukoka, 9 miles, where there is a littlecultivation on the bank of the river and on a backwater. Southernend of Dakhfili is reached at 12½ miles, road being partly alongriver and never very far from it, and passing several small groupsof huts. Dakhfili is a large camping ground ¾ mile long, oppositeShirri Island. It has a few palms and some large sunt trees. Nocultivation to speak of.
			There is another route to Dakhfili fromHosh El Geruf, which leaves the river at much the same place, andkeeps straight across the desert to Dakhfili. It was much used byconvoys, even at night, and is undoubtedly much better going thanthe Salmia route, and probably a couple of miles shorter, but thereis no water along it.
El Gab, viâ Um Duema	19	94	At the north-east end of Dakhfili, roadleaves the river, and after 1 mile over heavy sand and sand-coveredrock, emerges into the open Khor Haweili, 500 to 600 yards wide,and bounded by low sand-covered slopes. (From this point a trackleads to the river and round by it to Um Duema, distance 14 to 15miles, bad going.) Road continues up khor to 7 miles over sand andgravel, generally very good for camels, but a little soft for menand horses. Room to march in any formation. (From here desert roadcontinues almost straight on to El Gab, 17 miles, mostly goodgoing, but some heavy sand for the last 3 or 4 miles.) At 7½ milesthe Um Duema road strikes off to right by an easy but unfrequentedpath over low hills partly covered with sand, and descends by abaddish path between Ab Rumeila and Hebi at 11 miles. Roadcontinues easy but narrow along the bank, passing Hebi, 12 miles,where there are a few houses, with some palms and a littlecultivation, and Um Duema at 13 miles, which is similar to Hebi. At14 miles, road enters sand which lasts to El Gab. It is heavy inplaces and bad for men and horses. El Gab is an ancient ruined poston a low rock overlooking the river. There is a small patch ofcultivation and a few palms. Plenty of room to camp.
			Sand continues heavy to 2½ miles, wheredirect road by desert leaves river and strikes it again at about 10miles. (I did not follow this, but believe it is fairly goodgoing.) It is possible to march along the river bank, a littlelonger, but the sand is heavier.
Khulla, north end direct road	16	110	Khulla is a strip of the bank some 4miles long; no houses nor cultivation, only a few shepherds’ huts;many sunt trees and dom palms. Much room to camp and plenty ofshade. The sand is piled with hillocks along the bank, and the roadruns on lower ground from 100 to 600 yards from river. Northernboundary of Khulla is Khor Hamadein. This was the furthest pointattained by the River Column, 1885.
Ab Tin, by river road	20	130	After crossing Khor Hamadein, road keepsdue east for about 4 miles and passes through Gemmeiza, a districtsimilar to Khulla, but not so well wooded. Low gravelly hillsapproach on right bank, and at several points tracks branch off tothe left forming short cuts over these hills towards Ab Tin. (I didnot travel by any of these, but I understand they are easy going.)The telegraph line follows one of these. At 4 miles road turnsnorth by baddish track, heavy and stony, following river bank, andpasses small village of Tibna at 6 miles. Fair but heavyish goingto 10 miles, where short cuts from Khulla and telegraph line joinin. Bad going to 11 miles over low, rocky ridges covered with sand;then excellent going to Ginefab, 14 miles. Then ½ mile of badgoing, and 5 miles good going to Shellal Gurgurib over open groundwith many sunt trees; ¾ mile more of good going to Ab Tin at 20miles. This, though quite a small place, is the largest villagethat has been passed. It has a small area of cultivation and somepalms.
Abu Hamed	10	140	Road good and open, though heavy inplaces, for 5 miles, till it strikes railway; then heavy sand withsmall hillocks and many dom palms and other trees to 9 miles, whereroad and river turn south and track gets harder. The railwaystation is about 1 mile north of Abu Hamed village. Residence ofMamur and headquarters of the district.

Abu Hamed.Abu Hamed used to be chiefly notable as being the point of arrival and departure of the various caravan routes which traverse the Korosko Desert, and takes its name from a highly venerated sheikh, whose tomb is here situated. The merchants were in the habit of depositing here any articles with which they did not wish to encumber themselves during their journey through the desert, and the environs of the tomb used to be surrounded by every sort of superfluous impedimenta, left by their owners to await their return, with no other protection than that afforded by the sanctity of the defunct sheikh.

Considerable plantations of acacias and doms are found in the neighbourhood of the village, which is also remarkable for the numerous “dunes” or sand hills collected by the winds from the surrounding desert.

It is a small village, utterly destitute of supplies. The sterile desert extends to the very margin of the Nile. Altitude 1,040 feet above sea level. Desert perfectly flat. Deep sand. Major-General Hunter attacked and took the place from the Dervishes on the 7th August, 1897. (Vide [p. 254.]) The railway reached this point from Wadi Halfa on 31st October, 1897. It is now a watering station for trains, with modern bathrooms for tourists, etc. It is the residence of the Mamur and inspector of the Monasir and Robatab Districts. It is also proposed as the junction of a branch line to Merowe.

Sub-Section (b).—Abu Hamed to Khartoum.

Little has been recorded of the actual navigation of the river and the description of its banks between Abu Hamed and Khartoum, and especially of the stretch between Abu Hamed and Berber.

Between these two latter places the desert is broken by numerous ravines and studded with acacias and “dom” palms; the river channel is full of reefs and rapids, and navigation is at all times difficult and somewhat dangerous; cultivation only exists in scanty patches, and the inhabitants are poor and few in number. The inhabitants and cultivation are, however, increasing on both banks.

Mograt Rapid.A couple of miles above Abu Hamed is the Mograt Rapid, consisting of a few miles of bad passages (at low Nile). After clearing the Mograt Rapid, the navigation of the river is unimpeded for about 32 miles, until Mero Island, opposite Abu Hashim, is reached.

Bagara Rapid.As an obstacle to navigation the Abu Hashim Rapid is unimportant, and from the Mograt Rapid there exists a reach of about 50 miles of practically open water to the rapid of Bagara.

The Nile here takes a bend to the west, and for the space of 2 or 3 miles the bed of the river is filled with masses of black rocks, in some places forming dams, over which the river roars in its swift descent (December). This rapid is passable at high Nile, but impracticable at low or even mean Nile.

The cataract of Bagara is not long, but during low or even medium water it is rather rapid.

The banks of the river present no features of interest, and the country on the eastern shore is an almost uninhabited desert, the usual “doms,” which fringe the shore being the only vegetation to be seen, with here and there a scanty patch of cultivation; but, as the Bagara Rapid is approached, an improvement takes place on the western shore.

5th Cataract.The 5th Cataract, or Shellal el Homar, 24 miles from El Bagara, is a system of tortuous rapids running through irregular dangerous rocks. It is formed by a ridge of black rocks, broken up into islands, of which the main one is termed Draka. Here there are really two distinct cataracts—one to the north, which has two rather dangerous and difficult passages, in consequence of the banks being covered with brushwood rocks and mimosa trees, which prevent the tow rope being employed; the other to the south, called Shellal el Homar. These cataracts, like those that precede them, are dangerous and impracticable during low water.

They were successfully surmounted by the gunboats of the Nile Expedition in September, 1897 (high Nile).

From the 5th Cataract, where the Dar Robatab is quitted and the Dar Berber commences, a path exists on both banks for 30 miles to the town of Berber. About half-way the nature of the soil changes from the primitive desert to sandstone, and ranges of hills formed of the latter begin to show themselves on both banks, but more prominently on the western shore, where, opposite El Hasa, the edge of a stony plateau, about 100 feet high, known as Jebel Nakam, advances to within 200 yards of the water’s edge; thence the road follows the western shore at a distance of about ¾ of a mile, the intervening land being well cultivated and acacias and “dom” palms fairly abundant.

On the right bank, although a fringe of acacias borders the Nile, cultivation is almost entirely absent except in the immediate neighbourhood of the villages, which are met at frequent intervals; and the country, after entering the sandstone formation, consists of nothing but one vast desert plain extending as far as the eye can reach.

In view of the railway running the whole way along the river bank from Abu Hamed to Khartoum the description of the itineraries along the banks is omitted. The reader who desires such is referred to N.O. (pp. 63-70).

Berber.Berber, 131 miles from Abu Hamed (for description, vide Chap. III, [p. 85]).

Between Berber and the Atbara (20 miles) the cultivation improves, and a fairly broad band runs parallel to the east bank of the river; the inhabitants in this reach are fairly numerous.

The current here runs at the rate of from 2 to 3½ miles per hour; but above it, where the river increases in width, a proportional decrease in the rate of the stream takes place, and it does not exceed 2 miles.

Atbara confluence.The Atbara River, at its point of junction with the Nile, has a deep, well-defined section, and a bed-width of some 400 yards; the banks are steep and high. Although the channel is dry in summer, the flood marks register a height of 25 feet above the bed. The velocity of the Atbara current in flood is so great that it forces the water of the Nile across on to the western bank. The sandbank thus formed causes considerable difficulty to navigation, and in the early spring of 1898 caused the division of the fleet of gunboats into two isolated halves, neither of which could have moved if required to the assistance of the other.

El Damer.South of the junction lies the town of El Damer, formerly celebrated for its learning and university. It is now again a town of growing importance, and is to supersede Berber as the headquarters of the Province. Railway bridge over the Atbara here. The Nile-Red Sea Railway branches off up the right bank of the Atbara, north of the bridge.

From the Atbara to Khartoum the distance, by water, is about 200 miles. On this reach the slope of the river is separated by the Shabluka Cataract into three portions. This cataract begins at some 35 miles from Khartoum, and continues as far as Wad Habashi, 55 miles further north.

The average bed-slopes are:—

From Khartoum to head of Cataract	111000
Cataract and Rapids	15500
From Wad Habashi to Atbara	112500

Between the Atbara and Shendi (86 miles) there is little variety in the river scenery.[28] The average height of the banks over the river is from 25-28 feet; the channel is broad and interspersed with many sandbanks and islands. The eastern bank is flat, and covered with a thick growth of scrub and thorn bushes; the soil is good, but the halfa grass, owing to years of neglect, has got such a hold that very considerable labour is necessary in order to remove it and render the land fit for cultivation. The western bank is lower, and the strip of cultivable land much narrower than on the eastern shore. In places, ravines or “khors” run back from the river, and these in flood must be full of water. The whole tract has a most desolate appearance; villages are few and poor; inhabitants and cattle are wanting, although a few small flocks of sheep and goats are occasionally met with; here and there a sagia is at work; but the cultivation is confined chiefly to the foreshore of the river and to the islands. At certain points low ranges of hills, such as Jebel Egerdan and Jebel Umali approach the river on either side. Fuel is fairly plentiful, and everywhere the thorn jungle has encroached and swallowed up the areas which were once under cultivation. The depopulation of this district must date from a period anterior to the Dervish rule. Sir Samuel Baker, on visiting the country in 1869, noted the deterioration and desolation which had ensued since his visit of a few years previous. He attributed this ruin to the misgovernment of the Turkish Governor-General.

The “Pyramids of Meroe” are passed about the 17th parallel; they lie close to villages named Maruga and Sur. The district here between the Atbara and the Nile was in ancient times termed the “Island” of Meroe. (See [Chap. IV] and [Appendix D.])

Shendi.Shendi, 86 miles from Atbara mouth, situated on the right bank of the river and on rocky ground, which extends for half a mile above and below the town, was once the capital of the ancient kingdom of Meroe, and is said to have been the residence of the famous Queen of Sheba. Ismail Pasha, son of Mohammed Ali, was here burnt in his hut by the Jaalin in 1822, in revenge for his barbarities. The town and inhabitants were destroyed in 1823 by Mohammed Ali. It is now reviving considerably, and is the headquarters of the Cavalry in the Sudan; it owes its selection chiefly to the fine grazing, the gravel soil, and the level country around it.

Metemma.Four miles beyond Shendi, on the left bank, lies Metemma, the terminus of the trans-Bayuda route from Korti (vide [ Vol. II]), used by the Desert Column in 1885. The town was not assaulted or taken by our troops on that occasion, but was the object of a reconnaissance in force, 21st January, 1885; it lay dormant until 1897, when it became the headquarters of a projected rising against the Dervishes by the Jaalin tribe. Mahmud, however, was warned in time, and exterminated the conspirators and all their belongings. Over 2,000 Jaalin were killed and the town was destroyed. It is still a deserted ruin, lying over a mile from the river, but is easily recognisable by the solitary grove of date palms which stands out as a landmark in the flat and treeless plain. Here the western desert approaches the water’s edge, but a little cultivation is carried on upon the foreshore and the large island in front of the town. The remains of five Dervish earthworks still exist upon the bank up-stream of the town, and another (masked) upon the island. One-and a half miles up-stream lies the former village of Gubat, the furthest point reached by the Desert Column in 1885.

Between Metemma and Wad Habashi the whole country appears to be deserted, and there is a complete absence of life. At one point a series of honey-combed cliffs approaches the river, and runs parallel with it for some 5 miles.

Wad Habashi.Wad Habashi (left bank), 42 miles from Shendi, was the starting point of the 1898 Omdurman Expedition. The soil here is excellent, and the land must once have been cultivated, as traces of the old water-courses are still visible. It is now covered with a dense growth of acacia jungle and halfa grass, which stretches in a thick belt for some 2 miles from the Nile.

JAALIN SHEPHERD SCENE.

CORN GRINDING STONES, OMDURMAN.

About ½ mile inland a large and deep canal runs parallel to the river. This whole tract is entirely deserted, and, from its appearance, it seems probable that it was thrown out of cultivation prior to the rebellion of 1884. Four miles south of Wad Habashi is the boundary between the provinces of Berber and Khartoum, the limits being marked by the isolated granite hill on the east bank, known by the name of “Hagar El Asal.” From this point, the reefs forming Sixth Cataract.the tail of the Shabluka Cataract begin, and navigation at low water becomes impossible for steamers.[29] Although the actual cataract, or rapid, is only some 12 miles in length, the bad water, above and below the pass, extends for a length of some 55 miles, i.e., to Wad Ramla, or to within 35 miles of Khartoum.

In summer, i.e., if the railway is not used, this portion of the journey has either to be made in native boats, or by camel portage round the cataract. The land route is shorter than that by the river, being not more than 26 miles in length.

Wad Hamed.Five miles above Wad Habashi the former cavalry station of Wad Hamed is passed on the west bank. This place was selected as the headquarters of the Egyptian cavalry on account of the good fodder to be found in the vicinity. From here the difficulties of navigation increase; the river is split into numerous channels, and winds between picturesque islands, covered with a luxuriant growth of vegetation. Rocks and reefs appear above the water, and the swirls and eddies indicate the existence of many more below the surface. It was in this part of the rapid, on Mernat Island, that the “Bordein” steamer went aground on returning from Khartoum in 1885. Low serrated granite ridges confine the river on either side.

At the entrance of the Shabluka gorge, the channel takes a very sharp turn to the east, and the section is both deep and narrow—not being more than 200 yards in width anywhere, and in some places even less than this. The river runs between high granite hills for some 4 or 5 miles, with a very high velocity. The marks upon the rocks show that the highest flood level is not more than 7 feet above the water level of the river in March.

The northern entrance to the pass was guarded by five Dervish forts, now in ruins; four on the western and one on the eastern bank. These completely command the channel. On emerging from this gorge the river widens out, and the difficulties of navigation recommence. Reefs, rocks, and islands appear in all directions; the solitary peaks of Jebel Royan and Jebel Tyem stand out, one on either bank. At some 20 miles up-stream of the pass Wad Ramla is reached; from this point to Khartoum navigation, with care, is possible for steamers, even at lowest Nile. The country on both sides becomes more open, and many large islands are passed, most of which, notably that of Tamaniat, bear fine crops of dura. Large quantities of hay are also grown upon these islands and transported to Omdurman. The land on the east bank is good, and the cultivable strip extends for a considerable width, though covered as usual with scrub and rank grass. On the west bank the desert approaches the river closely.

Omdurman, Khartoum North, and Khartoum.

Omdurman.At 198 miles from the Atbara, the town of Omdurman is reached—the long low ridge of the Kereri hills to the north marking the scene of the battle in 1898. This town covers a large area, being some 5½ miles in length by 1 to 1½ miles in breadth. Its eastern frontage follows the river bank throughout. Two or three broad streets traverse it, but, with these exceptions, the houses are separated one from another by a network of twisting lanes. Some of the principal remaining Dervish houses, notably those of the Khalifa and Yagub, are spacious and well built. Ebony is much used in the roofs, and where the span is great, iron girders are inserted to support the roofing.

The “Beit El Amana,” or Dervish storehouse, covers a large area. Here are the old powder magazines and stores of a most miscellaneous description. The open-air mosque is simply a large inclosure, and within the “Sur,” or great wall, is packed a rabbit-warren of buildings, with narrow and winding streets. The entire town was, during the Dervish occupation, full of old cess-pits; these being merely deep holes sunk in the desert, and open to the air. These pits were probably largely responsible for the disease for which Omdurman attained such an evil reputation (Cerebrospinal meningitis), but which has now practically disappeared. The Mahdi’s tomb and Khalifa’s house, the latter still in good repair, are objects of interest for the tourist (vide pp. [266] and [252] respectively).

The town lies in a direct line 3 miles from Khartoum—but by water another mile, some 40 minutes by steamer. Very many of the houses are now deserted, but the population still numbers some 46,000. It lies on good gravel soil, and comprises, besides the old Dervish buildings above-mentioned, barracks for the garrison, which consists of 2 battalions infantry and 2 maxims. There is a large market (Suk), where a considerable trade in gum and other produce is carried on. On the sloping banks a large boat traffic is at work. Steamers and ferry boats connect the town with Khartoum. It is the residence of the sub-Governor of Khartoum Province who resides in a house built in the late Khalifa’s enclosure.

By kind permission of]

[W. Crooke, Edinburgh.

MAJ.-GEN. SIR REGINALD WINGATE.

Governor-General and Sirdar.

Khartoum North (Halfaya).Khartoum North (lately Halfaya) is the terminus of the railway from Halfa, and lies opposite to Khartoum, on the right bank of the Blue Nile. It includes storehouses, workshops, the headquarters and the dockyard of the Steamers and Boats Department, barracks for an Egyptian garrison, consisting of infantry and artillery, Custom-house, etc., etc. Population about 2,000. A steam chain ferry, running every half-hour, connects it with Khartoum.

Khartoum. Principal towns.Khartoum, including the towns of Khartoum North (late Halfaya) and Omdurman, together with a little hinterland (vide [App. G.]), forms a Province by itself. It is once again the capital of the Sudan and the seat of Government, though Omdurman still is, and Khartoum North will probably become in a few years, the principal trade centre.

Khartoum (meaning elephant’s trunk—with reference to the point of land jutting out between the two Niles) is a rapidly growing town, on the left bank of the Blue Nile, just before it joins the White Nile, and is built on the site of the old town of the same name, which was so gallantly held by Gordon and destroyed by the Dervishes in 1885. Its population is now 8,500 souls, and is gradually increasing. The soil is alluvial; bank of Blue Nile about 30 feet above the river at low Nile. In 1898 the old town was found entirely deserted and in ruins.

The main buildings are the Palace (built in 1899), the seat of the Governor-General; the Government Buildings (including the local War Office and the Offices of the Sudan Government); the Nuzl or Government store, the Post and Telegraph buildings, the Mosque, the Department of Works, the Mudiria (Governor’s office), branches of the National Bank and the Bank of Egypt, the Gordon College, the British barracks (holding one battalion of British troops), houses of the chief officials, and a small town of well-built mud-brick and stone houses (including a market square, landing place, a good European hotel, club, brick kilns, Zoological Gardens, etc., etc.), which is daily increasing in size.

Barracks.At intervals along the line of the old entrenchments from east to west are the barracks occupied by the Egyptian Army which are named after Ismail, Tewfik, and Abbas Pashas.

Outside these lines are villages of mud-built and grass-roofed houses of various Sudanese tribes, whose members are employed mostly in building and in other pursuits. (Vide also [Chap. V.])

Higher up the Blue Nile at Buri are the Gordon College and British barracks.

Town, etc.The town is symmetrically laid out with wide avenues planted with shady trees, and the class of buildings erected must be in strict conformity with the standard fixed for each particular quarter.

The public gardens and “Zoo” are situated at the west end of the town; these, especially the latter, have only as yet reached an embryo stage.

Garrison.The normal garrison of Khartoum consists of one battalion of British Infantry, relieved annually in October, and three battalions of Infantry of the Egyptian Army, as well as Cavalry and Artillery. (Vide [p. 3.])

Market.The market at Khartoum is poor and more expensive than that at Omdurman, which is much larger and better. Meat is usually PT.3 per oke (2¾ lbs.) and dura varies from PT.25 to PT.90 per ardeb (300 lbs.) according to the season and the year.

Building and fire-wood have to be brought long distances from up the Blue and White Niles, and are consequently both expensive.

Labour is scarce and difficult to obtain owing to the many buildings, etc., at present under construction.

Rainfall.The rainfall is very variable but that of an average year is very slight;[30] rain seldom falls on more than 10 to 15 days in the year, but when it does it is generally in heavy thunderstorms, which occur at intervals from June to October, and are usually preceded by duststorms, very similar to those at Kassala. In some years heavy storms occur as early as May.

Climate.The climate is comparatively good all the year round, though in August, September, and October, and occasionally at other seasons, a certain amount of fever is prevalent.[31] Khartoum is 1,253 feet above the Mediterranean.

The hottest month, according to the monthly average maximum temperatures recorded for 1901, is April (110·66° Fahr.), and the coolest January (88·34° Fahr.). April, May and June are here, as elsewhere, as a rule, throughout the Sudan, usually the three hottest months of the year. Vide also [p. 12.]

The highest temperature recorded in 1901 was in July (116·6° Fahr.), and the lowest (51·8°) in December.

The wind blows from the north almost continuously from November to April, after which it varies considerably, and finally settles down in May or June to blow pretty consistently from the south until the end of October or beginning of November.

Posts and telegraphs.There is a bi-weekly mail to and from the north, weekly to and from El Obeid, Wad Medani, Goz Abu Guma, and intermediate stations on the White Nile, fortnightly to Kodok, and monthly to stations on the Upper Nile and Bahr El Ghazal.

Telegraphic communication with the following and intermediate stations: Cairo, Dongola, Merowe, Suakin, Massaua viâ Kassala, Gedaref, Gallabat, Roseires, Renk, Kodok, Taufikia and El Obeid. Telegrams to Addis Abbaba can be sent viâ Kassala and Asmara. Vide also [p. 219.]

Ferries, etc.A Government ferry keeps up communication with Omdurman, and a steamer runs twice daily to and from Omdurman and Khartoum North, calling at Khartoum. There is also, as before mentioned, a steam ferry from Khartoum to Khartoum North and several of the native boat ferries.

The suburbs of these three towns include an additional population of 11,000 souls.

Recapitulatory table of distances by river in section:—

Merowe to Khartoum.

	Intermediate.		From Merowe.
	Miles.	Kilometres.	Miles.	Kilometres.
Merowe	0	0	0	0
Foot of 4th Cataract	9	14	9	14
Head „ „	77	124	86	138
Abu Hamed	62	100	148	238
El Bagara Rapid	55	88	203	327
Foot of 5th Cataract	24	38	227	364
Head „ „	2	3	229	367
Berber	30	48	259	416
Mouth of Atbara	20	32	279	447
Shendi	86	138	365	585
Metemma	4	6	369	592
Foot of 6th Cataract	54	87	423	678
Head „ „	12	19	435	697
Omdurman	41	66	476	764
Khartoum junction of Niles	3	5	479	771

INSIDE OF OLD PALACE, KHARTOUM.

By kind permission of]

[M. Venieris.

KHARTOUM: LOOKING NORTH FROM THE WAR OFFICE ROOF OVER TUTI ISLAND.

By kind permission of]

[M. Venieris.

THE PALACE AND GARDEN, KHARTOUM, FROM THE SOUTH-WEST.

Section (3).—Khartoum to Lake No.

Place.	Miles. Kilometres.		Left Bank.	River and General.	Right Bank.
	Inter-mediate.	From Omdurman.
Omdurman			On the W. bank, after getting clear ofthe houses of Omdurman, a hard, sandy track is followed skirtingthe edge of the cultivation	In the first 15 miles up stream ofKhartoum the country on either side is low, flat, and treeless;cultivation is carried out on the mud flats, and on the islands,which appear as the water falls. The water channel is fully 2 mileswide in this reach. It is very shallow, and landing is almostimpossible on account of the shelving banks. On these last, as thewater falls, a crop of grass springs up, which affords grazing tolarge flocks of cattle and sheep. Further up stream the channelgets narrower, but it is still over a mile in width. Both banks arelow and fringed with thin and low thorny jungle, and except for theisolated hills of Jebel Auli and Jebel Gurun the country is a deadflat. On leaving Omdurman the water channel at once opens out, athigh Nile, to 2 or 3 miles, course for steamer close to R.bank
			Left bank low, sandy, some scrub, andfurther on mimosa woods extending to river		Right bank; several villages, low, sandy,or swampy bank.
Kalakla	8	8			Road from Khartoum passes through villageKalakla in large clump of trees and then continues on open desertsand about 2 miles from river; very good going.
Sheikh Salim	3	11			Sheikh Salim or Wad Um Meriam.
					Village with high tomb in it. Road about2 miles from river. After this it enters some low sandhills withlarge clump of trees on river side about ½ mile off. The first openscrub begins, which thickens as it approaches the river.
Gemmueiya district	6	17	Gemmueiya district.—A long, stragglingvillage of that name and tribe; track passes on desert side of itsome 3 miles from river; bank of river difficult of access forwatering owing to mud; some bush and trees; low volcanic range toW. Well passed on right just before reaching village 30 feet deep,7 feet diameter water good. A small tukl village just E. of hilland same name. Track as before.
Um Arda	3	20			Scrub gets thicker on R. bank.
				Low flat island. About 9 miles long,trees S. end. Island banks inhabited by Jaalin and Hassania.
Haneik	7	27		S. end of El Arda island.
Jebel Auli	1	28 45	Track unchanged, sparse bush on eitherflank; good camping ground (at low Nile) and watering place		Road runs round E. of Jebel Auli, a steepbare volcanic rock about 100 feet high. Good camping ground for abrigade or less under the mountain. Another track leads S.E. fromhere.
Gar El Nabi	2	30			Road runs ½ to ¾ mile from river throughopen bush to Gar El Nabi; village mostly destroyed.
Jebel Mandara	2	32	Jebel Mendera or Mandara. Well definedtable hill 2 miles from L. bank, road passes spur of it. Bankswampy		Bank sandy.
Wad El Kereil	2	34	Village to west of track	Water channel 3 miles broad at high Nile;keep to right bank	Road crossed by small khors and in placesby cultivation in zeribas. River invisible from it.
Mohammedia	1	35		Many small islands	Village; also called Wad El Kereil.
Jebel Barima or Breima (Wad Belal)	5	40	Low hill. Watering place 1½ miles fromtrack. Latter crosses khors at intervals along route; good, somebush and trees, and sand dunes	Sand and swamp alternate on both bankswith trees growing into the water. Rocks appear at low Nile to W.of channel just before reaching the Jebel	Road runs through sand hills ½ mile fromriver and then closes to river at Wad Belal; good watering placeand wood station for steamers.
Abu Hagar	12	52 82	Dense scrub just before reaching El Hagaror Abu Hagar. Good camping ground ¼ mile to W. in desert. Wateringplace somewhat difficult of access at river; pools near desertafter high Nile. For 2 miles track continues good, then becomes asingle camel track, necessitating marching in file through verythick bush. The track to Homra (80 miles) and El Obeid graduallybranches off S.W. from the river track	Water channel 1¾ miles.
El Geteina	3	55 88			Large village divided into 2 parts,clean, good market, some “Shaduf” cultivation. Headquarters of theGeteina district.P.T.O. Country flat; Danagla Arabs. Road runs through village hereabout 200 yards from river. Good going, chiefly through sand dunesand scattered bush.
Salahia	4	59	El Salahia district. Swamp or cracked mudnear river bank. Much dura in Wadi Sadik	South of this thick thorn bush commences.From here to El Dueim (66 miles) the same scenery continues.Cultivation is limited to the islands and foreshores. As the waterfalls, large mud flats in the centre of the river appear. To thesethe people transfer their cattle and belongings, build “tukls” andset up shadufs. The soil on these flats is good, and rich crops areproduced. As the majority of these islands are not exposed beforethe month of February, artificial irrigation for the crops isnecessary. These quickly ripen under the hot sun, and are, as arule, harvested in May. The river varies in width from 700 to 2,000yards. The west bank throughout this reach is fringed with acacias,and, at high Nile, is flooded for a long distance as the left bankis very low and shelving	E. bank open, high, and sandy. Sand hillscome down to the water’s edge.
Dazira and El Debeiker	4	63	Old salt works, a mile E. of track.
El Alaga	7	70	Good camping ground and watering place.For 3 miles track leads through dura cultivation, then good roadnear river bank	El Alaga district both banks.
El Gerazi or Garrasa	6	76		Water channel 2 to 3 miles broad for next40 miles. Vast quantities of water birds of all sorts inhabit theNile almost from Khartoum upwards, and large numbers of crocodilesare visible, one or more on nearly every mud bank	Low sand hills with Danagla village ofGerazi to S. of them. People poor, no market. Good meshra. Roadruns from here through 3 or 4 miles of dura land ½ to ¼ mile fromriver, then along sand hills near river to Wad Shalai.
Wad Shalai	6	82 132			Village of conical thatched houses; banksbecome drier; series of villages from here along right bank at 2 to5 miles interval. Road runs for about 3½ miles through sand dunesclose to river, then gradually leaves river, and passes throughdura ground about 1½ miles from it.
Wad Nimr	2	84	A long straggling village and name of thedistrict. Good watering place 5 miles S., the desert road joins theriver road. Track runs some way from the river skirting the edge ofthe cultivation.
Wad El Zaki	5	89			Large village on top of some sand hills,pop. 400 to 500. From here 3 miles takes one to a few houses about2 miles from the river on some sand hills called Sayif, one ofthree villages of that name. Road goes on over cotton soil for 4miles, then crosses sand hill ridge for about 1 mile and descendsto a plain close to river where another village, also called Sayif,is seen 2 miles inland.
El Rahawat	1	90	On left bank nearly opposite Wad El Zakiis El Rahawat watering place, good camping ground. Leaving thisvillage the track on desert side of the cultivation should befollowed. Three miles on sand dunes are passed on R., and behindthem is the canal, some 20 miles long, 500 yards broad and 6 feetdeep. (Feb’y.)	Commencement of Tura El Khadra (GreenCanal) district.
Sayif	5	95			Good meshra and ferry to other bank; goodbuilding and cultivation. The road from here to Dabasi Meshra isover cotton soil with low scrub on river side.
Tura El Suk and Zif	5	100	Four miles from river		Zif village. Hashaba a mile to theE.
Dabasi Meshra, or Dobasi	6	106			Khalifa had big grain depôt here, ruinsof which can still be seen. Ferry. Road runs through sand hills ½mile from river to Dabasi.
Dabasi	1½	107½ 173	Telegraph line to El Obeid branches offhere from Dueim line at Minedrib		Fair-sized village, 400 to 500inhabitants on road. From Dabasi to Shabasha road remains close tobank, thence for next 10 miles 1 to 1½ miles distant.
Amara and Jebel Arashkol	1½	109 175	About 10 miles west of left bank is thehigh rugged mass of Jebel Arashkol, with several distinct peaks.Volcanic. Chief peak named J. Abd el Daim	Island Manir Long, flat, well-wooded island opposite Amara.	Amara village (or Um Arda).
Shabasha	3	112	Good camping ground and excellentwatering place. Village under spur from main mass of JebelArashkol. Track continues through cultivation. Good going	A ferry connects Shabasha El Gharb withShabasha El Sharg (on the east of the river).
Ghobeisha	9	121			The road closes to river at Meshra.Ghobeisha village. Good place for camp and watering. Road crossesopen plain with high grass; cotton soil; probably under water athigh Nile (?)
El Dueim	4	125 201	Town of fluctuatingpopulation of about 7,000 inhabitants; disembarking place for ElObeid. Head Quarters of the White Nile Province and residence ofthe Governor. El Dueim is developing into an important tradecentre; large market; principal mart for export Kordofan gum.Substantial Government offices. Starting point of Sudan transportservice for El Obeid. The plain all round is open and the localityis fairly healthy. Up-stream from El Dueim some fine strips ofcultivation occur along the foreshore. Behind this belt grows afringe of acacias, and beyond lies a rolling steppe. Action here23.8.83; small Egyptian garrison repulsed Mahdists.	Channel narrows to 1 mile or less	Road opposite Dueim leads to Maatuk,Managil, and Wad Medani.
					The east bank is covered with low bushand a little cultivation. Track leads N.E. (20 miles) toMaatuk.
Hassania Island (N. end)	5	130		Island (sometimes under water)	Half a mile on Meshra Ghayafa. Goodcamping ground and watering place; sandhill near Meshra. Sandfairly thick; cotton soil.
Denegila	5	135			Village west of road opposite island ofsame name, chief village of which is Mahbale. 1½ miles further isvillage of Abu Gurun, north of road where it crosses track to UmSaneita. Dura crops in this district.
Um Gar	3	138	Um Gar village. Good watering place andcamping ground. Track leads 5 miles to opposite Kawa, through bushand trees	Um Gar Island.
Meshra El Hella	5	143		Small floating pieces of suddbegin to appear	Thick bush close to river to Meshra ElHella. Road runs close to river to Kawa.
Kawa	3	146 236	Wad Abu Rul, opposite Kawa. Thick bushand trees on banks. Gum depôt belonging to Kordofan province.		Large village, 500inhabitants. Residence of British Inspector and Mamur. Wooding station forsteamers. Post and Telegraph Office. Road hence to Sennar. Kawa isbuilt on high land and bush is open all round it. Inhabitantsmixture Jaalin, Hassania, and Danagla. The houses are mostly roundwith thatched conical roofs. Large market, neat Government offices.Boat building has been started; ferry. Track from here northwards(31 miles) to Ma’atuk.
Lakadawia	—	—		Wooded island close by, with north endopposite, Kawa; about 4 miles long; richly cultivated with avariety of crops, comprising wheat, barley, onions, lubia, bamia,and dukhn. Above this the forest belt covers both banks of theriver, and is often flooded for a great distance on eitherside
					The road runs ½ mile from river throughdura cultivation, and then over grassy plains past villages of AbuHindi and Fum Omer to Shaggara.
Meshra Shaggara, Kenuz	8	154			Meshra and village close to river, thencepast Kenuz with island opposite. The road runs ¼ to ½ mile fromriver. Hassan Allob on banks with village called Dabus opposite,still through dura country to Nur El Daim.
Hassan Alob and Dabus	2	156	Village.
Nur El Daeim	3	159			Large village and police station; 1 miledistant from river.
Khor Gusab (?)	1	160	Watering place. Road now leads throughdense bush; river unapproachable till Um Turan.
Sheikh’s Tomb	2	162			Tomb of Sheikh Nur El Taib; three largetrees, ruined mud and brick buildings and some flags mark it. Roadbends due south to Shawal.
Shawal, Abu Lahm, and Aba Island (N. end)	1	163 262	Abu Lahm at point of curve	North end of Aba Island. Take westernchannel. Island cultivated in places, some 27 miles in length, beltof trees along river’s edge, but interior only thinly wooded.Higher at south than at north end. Inhabited by a few Shilluks.From this point the character of both banks changes. The sand dunesseen lower down the river have been gradually disappearing, andblack cotton soil now comes down to the water’s edge, which isfringed at low Nile by reeds, and by bunches of sudd which havefloated down from the Bahr El Jebel. Beyond the fringe of are whatare at high Nile grassy swamps, but at low Nile are dry andexcellent grazing grounds. Behind this swampy ground is a belt offine sant and other acacias. From here to Jebelein at low Nilethousands of sheep and goats and herds of cattle are seen grazingon either bank. These belong to the tribes living inland, where atthis time of year water and grazing is scarce.	Village right. Three conspicuous singlehills (Jebel Tuema?) about 20 miles south-east and a fourth peakedhill rather south of these (Jebel Buyut?). Country on right openbush, slightly undulating, good sandy watering places onriver.
Um Turan (?)	2	165	Watering place. Road improves; good goingalong bank till Fachi Shoya.
Malaha	1	166			Meshra Malaha and village Malaha; saltworks. Road enters scrub; bush country to Marabia.
Marabia	8	174			Action 29.4.83; Hicks Pasha defeatedDervishes. Good camping place on high ground, where there are ruinsof an old fort and brick buildings. Road leaves river, crosses agrassy plain, probably under water at high Nile, past village Torba(186) east of road, and turns towards river.
Mahdi’s Place	1	175		Large tree on river bank; ruins of mudhouses.
Fachi Shoya	1	176 283	Starting point for Sherkeila and SouthKordofan. Country open. Good camping and watering place. Villagedeserted. Base of two expeditions in 1899.	The banks on both sides now begin to befringed with reeds, the strip extending gradually in width from afew yards to 400 or 500 yards. Behind this are fine sant trees,etc.
Hesai Island	2	178	Thick trees and bush, up to 1½ miles inwidth, commence	Between Aba Island and right bank.Mangara village on Aba Island.
El Alob	7	185	Village; track leads S.W. to Gedid (33miles).
Zeinuba and Aba Island (S. end)	6	191		El Khema district both banks. Shillukvillage at south end of Aba Island.	“Manjera” (boat yard) of Zeinuba underclump of large trees.
Goz Abu Guma and Wurelat Island	1	192 309	Track leads S.W. (32 miles) to Gedid	Wurelat Island,opposite Goz Abu Guma. Large grass islands make their appearance inthe river (January). The eastern channel opposite Goz Abu Guma isshallow, and dries up at low Nile, when a landing has to beeffected either 2 miles above the town or on the west bank of theisland opposite the town.	Headquarters of district ofthat name. Telegraph and Post Office. The telegraph line fromSennar (Blue Nile) across the Gezira reaches the White Nile hereand continues southwards. East bank heavy grass with a few acacias.The east channel here is some 500 yards wide. The north and southroad runs ½ to 1 mile from river. Line of villages on high ground4½ miles from river. Good grazing; 400 inhabitants; Tukls. Littletrade. Greek merchants have collecting station during the gumseason on the left bank, which belongs to Kordofan.
			Gum collecting station on L.B.
El Khema	7	199			Road joins river at El Khema Police Post.Many birds and monkeys.
Abbassia Gedida (Black Colony)	1	200 322			Colony of old Sudanese soldiers. Eastbank reed strip thinner than west.
Abu Zeid	8	208 333	Abu Zeid village. Bank continues fringedby several hundred yards of reeds. Baggara Selim country begins;sparsely inhabited, with thick bush and trees behind. Good gamecountry begins	Passage only practicable at low water.The Abu Zeid ford is a most serious obstacle to navigation. At thispoint, for a length of some 4 miles, the river spreads out in abroad and extremely shallow sheet, at low Nile about 1,200 yards inwidth. Upon the bed, masses of what are called “fresh-wateroysters” collect. The broken shells form, with a shingle, a kind of“conglomerate,” almost as hard as rock, and which nothing but aspecially adapted dredger could remove. In March and April, in verylow years, the depth of water here is in places not more than 1foot 5 inches to 1 foot 8 inches. The forest is very thick on bothshores, and on the west a wide belt of swamp and grass renderslanding very difficult. The papyrus reed is first seen at thisplace, and occasional ambach. Floating patches of sudd aremet with in the channel, as well as many permanent large grassislands, the largest being those of Nuago and Musran. Hippopotamibegin to appear in considerable numbers	Police Post, east bank. Scattered treesand bush, 1 to 1½ miles in width, commence again.
Masran Island (N. end)	1	209		North end of island. East channel oftenmuch blocked with sudd; only a narrow passage of 50 yardsbeing visible at times. Island thickly wooded	Road keeps close to river bank.
Danko Shush	4	213			Shilluk village.
Azalet Rocks	9	221		Rocks across main western channel.Dangerous at low Nile.
Danko Selim	6	227		Shilluk village on Masran Island. Rocksin middle of stream; dangerous to navigation, especially at night.Here the reef runs right across the river channel, and the onlymethod of passing safely at low water is to steer a course like theletter S. Many of the rocks are below the water surface, and theirpresence is only indicated by the ripples which they cause.
Meshra Zubeid	4	231			Meshra to Masran Island. Hence road windsthrough thick scrub, with patches of open country, to the ford atJebelein.
Masran Island (S. end)	5	236		Shilluk village at southern point.Careful navigation necessary
Jebelein	2	238 383	Two roads lead north-westwards fromopposite Jebelein to Gedid, etc. Baggara Selim live on leftbank	River about 500 yards wide; rocks showingin places. Up-stream of Jebelein, for many miles, the country ismost dreary and monotonous. A fringe of forest on either bank marksthe higher land. Between this the river winds through reedyislands, masses of swamp grass and floating weed. A series ofislands now begins. Dinka country right.	The boundary between the White Nile andUpper Nile Provinces belonging itself to the Upper Nile (Kodok)Province. Jebelein is easily recognisable by the fivepeculiarly-shaped granite peaks which rise abruptly from the plainon the eastern shore. The highest of these peaks is perhaps 600feet. The nearest is 1 mile from the river, and the farthest 3miles. They form an amphitheatre of rocky hills; two distinctmasses, with a third hill to the east of the northern mass. Grassyplain between north and south ridges. Village on east of southridge. The forest on the east bank is about a quarter of a mile inwidth, and extremely thick. Behind it stretches an endless expanseof prickly grass, some 3 feet high, interspersed with clumps ofmimosas. Lions and Tiang fairly plentiful. The soil is light andfriable, and much of it must be flooded during the rainy season.One or two ravines serve as drains to this area. The ruins of AhmedFedil’s “Deim” are still visible here. This tract once formed partof the Dinka country, but is now quite uninhabited, most of theDinkas having migrated to the south to escape the raids of theslave-traders. At this point the “serut” fly makes its firstappearance, and remains an unwelcome guest throughout the journey to Kodok. This brownfly, which is about the size of a small wasp, has a sharp stab, andif allowed to settle speedily draws blood. Not poisonous. Road 200to 400 yards from river. Massacre of Egyptian troops by Mahdists in1882.
([Illustrations])
Meshra Sherif	3	241			Meshra and camping ground good; nameapplies to country for next 2 miles. Road runs through thickishthorn jungle; path good.
Bulli Island	6	247		North end of Bulli Island. Westernchannel 100 yards broad; eastern one bad. Narrow island 100 to 200yards wide, covered with grass and rushes	Path keeps close to east channel, whichis nearly dry in April and May.
Debba[33] El Goda	12	259		Western channel bad	Sheikh’s tomb. Large range of hills west.Pointed peak about 30 miles east. Perhaps Abu Gurud (?).
Gamus	17	276		South end of Bulli Island. Westernchannel about 80 yards broad.
Karshawal	2	278			Small Selim village, with old camp inland2 miles to south-east. Selim and Dinka Meshra.
Agang	18	296			Selim and Dinka villages about 3 milesinland.
Renk	2	298 479		Thick forest on both banks. From Renk toAhmed Agha there is no change in the monotony of the scenery. Thewest bank is very flat and low, and the east bank is covered withthorn jungle, plenty of trees and heavy grass	Road closes to river. Headquarters ofRenk District. Government offices and residence of BritishInspector. Good sandy meshra, open ground for camping large force.Telegraph and Post Office. Inhabitants, Dinkas and Selim Arabs, whoown sheep, goats, and the former cattle. Thick forest. Mosquitoesvery troublesome here after sunset. Action here 15.9.98. Dervish“deim” bombarded and taken, and a steamer captured. Track to Guleand Roseires branches off here (vide Vol. 2).
Khor Deleib	2	300		The river is fringedwith a belt of reeds on either bank, varying from 10 to 200 yardsbroad. Thick forestboth sides. Much bird life. There is a ford across both channelshere (Ahmed Fedil crossed in 1898), but it is rarely practicableexcept at low Nile, and not always even then. Northern end of WadDakona Island; take western channel. A few Shilluk villages on thisisland formed by White Nile and Khor Gaza El Abiad. This khor athigh Nile is probably 300 to 600 yards wide, but at low Nilenowhere more than 300 yards; fordable nearly everywhere. Manywildfowl on it	Road leads south-east to KhorDeleib and runs along an eastern branch of the Nile named Gaza ElAbiad. Village of Sheikh Bakhit Niok (released slave from Cairo).South of here people mostly Selim Baggara, living in temporaryencampments: about 1 mile inland for grazing.
Warrit, or Loingwin, and Dabba Dungit	10	310
Um Hedeida	10	320		Khor decreases till at Um Hedeida waterstagnant and in small quantity (February). Elephants drink hereregularly, but only at night. They pass the day about 20 milesinland in a forest of dense kittr bush which the Arabs call their“beit” or house.	Track follows eastern bank of khor.Country covered with 3 feet high grass where not burnt. Scatteredbush “Heglig” and “Hashab”; no cultivation.
					Water reappears in khor. Selimencampments east of track.
Leungtom (D), or Domaia (or El Wat(A))	6	326		South of Wad Dakona Island	Meshra. Road approaches Nile for firsttime since Renk. About 1½ miles inland are villages of Kolang ElWat under Sheikh Salem Banga (also released slave from Cairo).Country fairly open. Track follows east bank of a khor. On west oftrack is a fringe of thick “talh.” To the east country is fairlyopen.
Debba El Zawia or Zawa	5	331	Dom Palms on left bank as well as onright	Two islands, western channel 80 yards;shallow at low Nile	Commencement of Nabagaia District.Island. Swamp grass and trees. First “dom” palms are met here.
Anok	4	335			Village of Agweim Dinkas passed about ¾mile to east on slight elevation. Thick “talh” bush on either sideof track. Village depends on river for water.
					Tereiba or Allal (D) districtcommences.
Debba Ibrahim Sharak	9	344			Shade and good water in khor. Good middaycamping ground. Jebel Ahmed Agha visible. From here on bushunpleasantly thick. Elephants and much game.
El Ragal (A)	1	345			Track branches offeast to Dinka village or district of Kash Kash (10 to 20 miles fromriver?). Bush ceases to annoy. Elephants drink here.
Senagul (D)	4	349
Debba Abu Teiba	1	350			Two main khors, Sangeir (or Ran (D)) andMesangeir (or Balantega (D)), from the Abyssinian hills near Kirin(?), join the river here. Difficult to cross July to November.
Meshra Meteima (Selim)	2	352	Meshra on left bank.
Jebel Ahmed Agha (or Biba (D))	1	353 568	Western channel best; 70 yards. Matmardistrict commences; then Mohadan Zeraf		A solitary hill, 250 feet high and 250yards from east to west along its crest; great landmark; volcanic;a few small trees to summit; stands 2 miles from the bank. From itssummit is seen a vast tract of trees and grass broken by khors andswamps. J. Ulu and Gerauit visible 60-70 miles to the east. Nobreak in the level. Much game. Several Dinka and Selim villages inneighbourhood, but in rains the Dinkas retire inland, and the Arabsto districts north of fly limit. Dinka Sheikh Jok. Many “dom” palmsaround the Jebel. Water is obtainable from Khor Biba. It is 1 mileeast of river, which here bends south-west. About 22 milessouth-south-east of the Jebel, on the Khor Mesangeir, lies thevillage of Akorwen in a large grassy plain. There is a track up K.Rau to Awitong and several other Dinka rain villages. Thence trackgoes to J. Ulu and Gerauit, thence to Kirin or J. Jerok.
Edor Gamoia.	4	357	Much game: buffalo, etc.	Shilluk village on north end of GeziraWad Beiker	Opposite this island, for about 6 miles,extends the district of Heglig or Tau.
Gamus	6	363		Shilluk village on the island. Thesheikh, after whom the village is named, is a refugee fromCairo.
Dabba Marbeit or Shakab	1	364			Opposite south end of Wad Beiker. A grandgame country.
Kwe	2	366			A Dinka Farik.
Alumbal	1	367			Sheikh Ajak’s village. Country round isfairly open, scattered “kittr” and “naal” grass. Both thesevillages are under Sheikh Salem Banga of El Wat. Track south-eastto Akorwen, 22 miles.
([Illustrations])
Meshra Zeraf	1	368	Meshra on left bank also		The meshra extends for about 2 miles, theroad skirts the river and crosses a wide shallow khor called a“farlegh” or “rigl” by the Arabs. It is said to come from nearAturuk.
Rom or Um Gursan	4	372			Dinka village named Rom, under SheikhJok. The district for the next 8 miles is known by the Arabs as UmGursan. The track from Renk to here is, as a rule, excellent, butfrom here to Kaka bad; passing over hard-baked, badly crackedcotton soil. Splendid game district on both banks.
Ardeib El Miriam	6	378	Ardeib El Miriam district on westbank		District of Tereiti begins.
Meshra Rom or Tereiti	2	380			Telegraph line passes here. Ageirdistrict.
Fil and Ajak Kwa El Mango.	3	383			Ageir Dinka villages. Track about 1 milefrom river. Country open with patches of bush here and there. Trackgoes further from river; at knoll called Debba Shagerab road bendswestwards and crosses a marshy (in rains) plain to Debeik, SheikhAkol’s village, about 1 mile from river opposite Kaka.
Kaka and Debeik	11	391 634	Kaka is one of a collection of Shillukvillages spread along several miles on the left bank, 400 yardsfrom the river. From this point southward, the villages on thewestern bank of the river are continuous. They cluster along theridge and behind the forest. In front of them extends a broad beltof swamp, mostly dry at low Nile, varying in width from a fewhundred yards to over a mile. Landing at any point along this reachis impossible except at low Nile. The marsh is very deep, and covered with thick grassand reeds, through which nothing but hippopotami can force theirway	Many grass islands block the riverchannel, which averages from 300 to 400 yards in width. Near Kodokthese grass islands occur in constant succession, and on the westbank a double line of Shilluk villages is to be seen—the one on theedge of the swamp, and the other further inland. Landing can onlyoccasionally be effected on either bank of the river	On the eastern bank the swamp is perhaps500 yards wide behind it the eternal belt of forest. Outside ofthis again stretches an endless plain of high grass dotted withclumps of trees. This side of the river is quite uninhabited,except by a few Shilluks who cross the river for the purpose ofhunting or fishing. Occasional big khors run into the Nile on theeastern bank. These depressions run for many miles inland, andtheir banks are covered with a thick growth of thorny trees.
Ajok	8	397			Skirting an open marshy (in rains) plainon right and following line of trees on left Ajok (Dinka village)is reached. Tracks now become numerous and ill-defined; the onefollowed led across an open marshy (in rains) plain to the Nile, 2miles north of Kaka Wood station.
Kurwa district	5	402	Road starts from here to Fungor (MekBosh-Nubawi) (41), and J. Gedir (71 miles). No landing place.
Kaka Old Wood Station (1902)	2	404		The river now curves to the west and thento the east	Known as Hellet El Nyam-Nyam, close toriver bank; wood station. Much game here—waterbuck, lion, cobusleucotis, &c.
El Gerab	7	411	Village. Marshy banks; a few trees		The country in the bend the river formsis called Gerab El Aish (bread-bag?).
Melut	2	413			Telegraph station, Government buildings,and residence of police officer. Line crosses river to west bank.Track leads from here to Kirin, on the Abyssinian frontier.
Demtemma	3	416	Shilluk village left. Sheikhs Kodak andTak		Demtemma. Small village 700 yards frombank. Headquarters of district officer.
Sheikh Delal	2	418	Unapproachable by steamers at high Nile;a string of villages now extends, 1 to 2 miles inland, along thewest bank for many miles.		Sheikh Lowir (D) village two hours inlandeast.
Sheikh Nyekeia	31	449	His villages extend for the next 10miles.	Floating islands frequent. Westernchannel 200 yards	Dinka villages right bank; but not sonumerous as Shilluks on left bank.
Kodok[34]	10	669 459 738	Up narrow backwater on leftbank. Position 9° 53′ longitude, 32° 8′ latitude. Height, accordingto Austin, 1,360 feet. Date palms. At low Nile a steamer cannot getup the backwater, and has to discharge on the east bank of thepeninsula forming the backwater. The latter has then to be crossedin boats. Headquarters of the Province. Telegraph station and postoffice. Government buildings, brick stores, zincroofed. Nativevillage 600 yards to west, with a few shops, where smallrequirements, such as sardines, cigarettes, etc., can be purchased.Trade goods popular in these parts can be procured here. Garrisonof two companies. Marchand’s garden, etc., kept up. His expeditionarrived here June, 1898; attacked twice by Dervishes. Anglo-Egyptian expedition arrived 10.9.98. French evacuated December,1898. Was in the old days a considerable trading station. Climateunhealthy July to October. Millions of mosquitos.	Country on each bank open grassy plain,with bunches of big trees, resembling a park	A track leads south from opposite Kodokto Uryong on the Sobat, about 40 miles. Three wells at Dunjol, 13miles south. Open grassy country most of the way, up to within 7miles of Uryong, when thick thorn bush continues to the river.
					Scattered Dinka villages atintervals.
Lul	18	477	Austrian Roman Catholic Mission Station.Flourishing garden on bank. Station 600 yards inland. Staff ofabout five fathers and three sisters.
Taufikia	34	511 822			Station second in importance in U.N.Province. Headquarters of a Sudanese battalion; 300 inhabitants;Mamur; deleib and dom palms, also acacias; Old Government postunder Ismail. Sir S. Baker’s headquarters in 1865, etc.; “Baker’sTree” still remains. Fairly healthy site, but little trade. Countryin rear marshy, but never flooded. White ants bad. Good landingplace. Proposed site for a dockyard (1904).
Sobat River [The river between the Sobat mouth and Lake No has not yet beenaccurately surveyed. The figures given in this portion must,therefore, be accepted with caution.]	5	516 830	Village left opposite junction. SheikhLuong	River channel bends gradually due west.Average breadth at Low Nile 150 to 300 yards. Numerous islands andbackwaters in places	Mouth of River Sobator Bahr El Asfar. Yellow river, 80 to 150 yards wide; well definedbanks; current of cream-coloured water three miles per hour. Almostat the junction, on the left bank of the Sobat, is the (deserted)fort built in 1898. This point was reached from Abyssinia by Colonel Artomonoff andMessrs. Faivre and Potter ten days before the Marchand missionpassed (vide [p. 141]). Seven miles up theSobat on its north bank, and six miles across southwards fromTaufikia, is the American Protestant Mission Station of Tatûg orDeleib (amid a grove of deleib palms “tuga”). Flourishing. Shillukneighbourhood.
Finidawi	—	—	The left bank is still studded with achain of Shilluk villages standing about a mile from the river. Theintervening space is covered with long grass, but open in places,with stunted solitary trees. Much game.
([Illustrations])
Khor Attar	1	517			Wooding station; good landing place;swampy inland. Khor running in from due south. Trees and grass,ambach, &c.
Tonga	4	521		East end of Tonga Island begins. Verylow; annually covered by the flood. Width from one to two anda-half miles. At low Nile the channel separating it from themainland is dry at the western end. The eastern part of thischannel is termed the River Lolle or Fanakama. At its eastern endit is 80 yards broad and about three feet deep (in April); it isdoubtful whether it is a river at all; but it has been reported tocome from the Nuba hills. It was explored by Marno in 1880 forabout 32 miles, and by Colonel Sparkes in 1899 for about 28 miles(stopped by sudd). A branch from the Lolle forms the western partof the channel referred to.
Gabt El Megahid	5	526			Formerly a base camp for sudd cuttingparties.
Shakwa El Shilkawi	5	531			Shilluk villages—group.
Bahr El Zeraf	16	547 880		Western end of Tonga Island	Mouth of the Bahr El Zeraf; 38 yardsbroad; little or no current; 19 feet deep (low Nile).
Maya Signora	53	600			A large lagoon (explored by M’lle. Tinné(Dutch) in 1863), over 500 yards wide, extending for some distancealongside the river. Likely place for sudd to collect. Connectswith Bahr El Jebel, 13 miles up stream of Lake No.
Lake No	12	612 985		Entrance to Lake No. Mouth of the Bahr ElJebel. For description of Lake No vide [p. 165.]

RECAPITULATORY TABLE OF DISTANCES.

	Intermediate.		From Omdurman.
	Miles.	Kilometres.	Miles.	Kilometres.
J. Auli	28	45	28	45
Geteina	55	88	55	88
J. Arashkol	54	86	109	175
Dueim	16	26	125	201
Aba Island	38	61	163	262
Fachi Shoya	13	21	176	283
Goz Abu Guma	16	26	192	309
Abu Zeid	16	26	208	333
Jebelein	30	48	238	383
Renk	60	96	298	479
J. Ahmed Agha	55	89	353	568
Kaka	41	66	394	634
Demtemma	22	35	416	669
Kodok	43	69	459	738
Taufikia	52	84	511	822
Sobat River	5	8	516	830
Bahr El Zeraf	31	50	547	880
Lake No	65	105	612	985

JEBELEIN.

WOODING STATION NEAR GOZ ABU GUMA.

JEBEL AHMED AGHA.

AKUNERE, SHILLUK VILLAGE.

SHILLUK MAIDEN WITH HOUSEHOLD UTENSILS.

KODOK.

ROMAN CATHOLIC MISSION STATION, LUL.

TAUFIKIA.

LAKE NO.

SHAMBE.

Section 4.—Lake No to Gondokoro.

Place.	Miles. Kilometres.		Description.
	Inter-mediate.	From Lake No.[32]
			For description of Lake No, see[page 165.] For the Sudd, see[Appendix B.]
Bahr El Jebel	—	—	For detailed description and maps of theBahr El Jebel between Lake No and Gondokoro, see Sir W.Garstin’s Report (Blue Book, Egypt, No. 2, 1901, price 3s.6d.), from which much of the following is taken; alsosee his Report of 1904 (price 17s.).
Ex block[35] No. 1	1	1	The entrance to theBahr El Jebel is about 150 yards broad at the extreme east end ofLake No. The channel, turning suddenly to the south, is bounded oneither side by a dense perpendicular growth of rich green papyrusswamp, in which ambach trees, and um suf and convolvulusoccasionally appear. The papyrus reaches from 10 feet to 15 feetabove the surface of the water (Jan.). As the steamer proceeds inits winding course, the channel varies from 70 to 100 yards, whilstthe breadth of the papyrus strip varies from a few hundred yards toseveral miles. The solid ground (at its best only a few feet abovethe level of the water) on the far side of the papyrus graduallyrecedes, and the trees in the distance become more and more sparse,till at last they vanish altogether. Except in occasionalinstances, no dry land is to be seen throughout these swamps. Theirextent is unknown, but, more especially to the west of the river,it must be enormous. In all probability the greater portion of theregion lying between the Bahr El Jebel and Bahr El Ghazal and itstributaries is, in the rainy season, a vast marsh. To the easttheir area is more limited, as the country beyond the Bahr El Zerafgradually rises into alluvial plains, covered with dense grass, andintersected by numerous swamp lines. These plains, as a whole, areabove the level of the Nile when in flood. In the long island,lying within the loop formed by the Bahr El Zeraf with the mainstream, there undoubtedly exists a ridge of comparatively highland. Upon this a Nuer population has settled. Except by occasionalglimpses of trees, and, more rarely, of a village, it is impossibleto trace this ridge. Its limits are undetermined. It is surroundedon every side by a belt of almost impassable morass. The onlyevidence of human beings are the grass fires on the horizon, and,except for an occasional elephant, buck, or giraffe, visible in thefar distance from the top of the steamer, and a few water-birds,bee-eaters, wagtails, &c., animal life appears to have suddenlybecome extinct. At sunset, however, thousands of insects make theirappearance, but, with the exception of the mosquito, who is alwaysen évidence to a greater or lesser extent (worst fromApril to November (during the rains) and least from December toMarch—dry season—grass fires), they vanish after an hour ortwo.
„ „ 2	8	9 14
Discharge (14.4.00) 218·95 c.m. persec.	1	10 16
Ex block No. 3	6	16 26
„ „ 4	21	37 59
„ „ 5	14	51 82
„ „ 6	4	55 88
„ „ 7	3	58 93
„ „ 8	6	63 101
„ „ 9	3	66 106
„ „ 10	1	67 108
Ex block No. 11	5	72 116	The water of the BahrEl Jebel is dark-coloured, but contains little or no sediment. Thedepth of the main channel varies from 20 to 24 feet at low Nile. Asfar as mile 40, the ridge lying between the Zeraf and the Jebel isvisible on the eastern bank, at a distance varying from 500 to3,000 yards. Trees and a few palms appear to indicate the presenceof villages. From this point the ridge disappears and the swampsstretch to the horizon upon both sides of the river. The first fourof the sudd blocks, cleared by Major Peake’s party, occurred withinthis distance. The fifth, sixth, seventh, and eighth blocks weremet with between miles 50 and 63. Upstream of mile 63, thecharacter of the marsh changes. North of this point comparativelyfew open lagoons are to be seen, but from here, untilHellet-el-Nuer (mile 139) is reached, these shallow lakes borderthe Bahr El Jebel in continuous lines. Some of them are ofconsiderable area, as a reference to the map will show. They formnurseries for the growth of water plants, and are the chief causeof the blocks which form in the channel. Their depth rarely exceeds3 feet. As the river is ascended, these lagoons increase in numberand size. The channel often passes between two of these lakes, onlyseparated from them by a belt of papyrus. In winter these lagoonsare open spaces of water, but, with the advent of the rainy season(in the month of April), their surfaces become covered withdetached masses of floating vegetation. Many of them are connectedby a series of openings with the river, and their water level risesand falls with that of the latter. The loss of water, byevaporation, upon these shallow ponds, must be extremely great. Itis difficult to say whether these lagoons are old courses of theBahr El Jebel and long since filled up, or whether they are tracesof the vast lake which, it is imagined, once covered this area. Thelatter supposition appears to be the more probable, as the channelof the river is so deep and so sharply defined that it appearshardly possible that it should have utterly disappeared. On theother hand, there is at least one instance where the river isactually in process of vanishing, i.e., between miles 143and 165. In this reach the channel is filled with decomposed suddto such an extent that it is difficult to trace it. It is reasonable to supposethat, unless cleared, it will, in course of time, disappear and betransformed into a series of “mayas” or lagoons. These “mayas” areconstantly changing their shape. New channels burst into the riverand others fill up and disappear.
„ „ 12	3	75 120
„ „ 13	4	79 127
„ „ 14	3	82 132
Discharge (1.4.01) 362 c.m. per sec.	10	92 148	The average level of the marshes, inMarch and April, 1901, was from 7 inches to 1 foot above the riverwater surface. Between mile 65 and Hellet-el-Nuer, the width of theriver is very variable; in many places it is only 60 yards and inothers as much as 150 yards. The general average may be taken asfrom 75 to 80 yards, and the mean velocity of the stream at 2 milesan hour, at low water. The depth ranges from 15 to 22 feet, but inplaces is as much as 28 feet. The sudd blocks 9 to 14 were met withbetween miles 65 and 82. At block 14, what may be termed the firstseries of sudd obstruction ended, and with its removal, in April,1900, through navigation between Khartoum and Gondokoro wasrestored. The worst place in the river, in the way of givingtrouble, was block No. 10, at mile 67.
2 deleib palms. (W.)	16	108	From this point landapproaches the river on both banks, that to the east being lessextensive.
3 deleib palms. (E.)	5	113
Trees	12	125	Trees 5 miles to east.
Hellet El Nuer	14	139 223	At mile 139 from Lake No, Hellet El Nuer(or Aliab Dok) is reached. It is rather a pretty landing-place withstretches of short turf; no huts or inhabitants. The latitude atthis place is 8° 4′ 36″ North, and at this point the high landtouches the west bank of the Jebel and stretches in a broad expanseto the horizon. The bank here is 3 feet above the water, but theland rises at a short distance from the river. This plain isevidently never swamped, even in flood. It is covered with a growthof deleib palms, Euphorbia, and bush. It commences at mile 131, andcontinues along the river as far as mile 144, with swampy intervalsat the loops.
Captain Gage’s channel	—	—	At Hellet El Nuer itself, a branch ofsome size takes off the Bahr El Jebel. This channel is not shownupon any existing maps, and was first mentioned by Captain Gage, ofthe 7th Dragoon Guards, in his report upon his journey through thesudd in the winter of 1899-1900. It has a width of 70 yards, ofwhich 10 yards on either side are filled by the swamp grasses. Itsaverage depth, at low water, is 3 feet, and its mean velocity is 2feet per second. Its discharge, as measured in March, 1901, was21·74 cubic metres per second. Captain Gage’s channel leaves theBahr El Jebel at a right angle, but some 500 yards down-stream itturns in a north-westerly direction. Captain Gage followed itscourse for some 40 miles, but was then stopped by sudd. It seemsnot improbable that this channel forms a junction between thewaters of the Bahr El Jebel and those of the River Naam, whichdischarges into the Bahr El Ghazal, through the Khor Deleib. A fewmiles down-stream its banks are lined by a succession of Nuervillages, and its width increases to 200 yards. It must carry alarge quantity of water when in flood. At other periods of the year(January) it appears to flow into, not out of, the Bahr ElJebel.
North end[36] of false and true channelsand block 15	4	143 230	Four miles further on the channel widensinto a small lake, and from here[36] the true river is blockedby sudd for some 20 miles. This is termed block 15, and repeatedefforts to clear it out (1901-02), owing to the total absence ofcurrent, resulted in failure. The expedition under LieutenantDrury, 1903-04, very nearly succeeded in clearing the whole of thetrue channel. Both Lieutenant Drury and Sir W. Garstin later passedright through this block in 1904, the only remaining piece near thesouthern end of the block being fairly easily navigable. The truechannel is from 16 to 20 feet deep, whilst the false channel to thewest is only 4 feet to 6 feet in depth. One of the Dervishsteamers, with boats containing ivory, was sunk in this part of theriver, and was discovered by the 1903-04 expedition. At presentnavigation of the false channel is attended with considerabledifficulty, and the services of a competent pilot areindispensable. The river is separated into many branches, and thesecross and recross one another, forming a bewildering labyrinth ofislands. At the south end of the small lake before mentioned,channels converge from all points of the compass. These areseparated by low flats, covered with dense growth of papyrus.
Series of lakes	7	150	After steaming forsome 7 or 8 miles through a wilderness of papyrus, a series oflakes is reached, at mile 150 from Lake No. Stiff current here.These lakes have a depth of about 4 feet at the deepest point, butshoal rapidly towards the shore. A feeble but distinct currentpasses through them to the north. Their breadth varies largely.Their shores are surrounded by high papyrus and their surfaces aredotted by countless small sudd islands. There are, however,indications on both sides that the high land is not very fardistant. It has already been explained that the true channel, whichlies to the east of these lakes, is said to skirt the dry land. On the west aline of fair-sized trees at a distance of, perhaps, 2 miles, showsthat the swamps in that direction also have a limit. A verynoticeable feature of these expanses of water is theirlifelessness. No birds are to be seen, and hippopotami appear toavoid them altogether. At mile 163 the lakes end, and a freshnetwork of branching streams confront the navigator. Here, again,very careful steering and knowledge of the passage to be followedis required. Each year these channels change. What is, in oneseason, the deepest channel, is, perhaps, the next year impassable.For some 5 miles the river is split up into many differentbranches, all winding through papyrus swamp. At mile 165 the truechannel of the river is reached. The change is startlingly sudden,as the depth suddenly increases from 4 to 21 feet. Instead of atwisting stream, the Bahr El Jebel again becomes a fine open river,some 80 to 90 yards in width, bounded by a high fringe of papyruson either side. The false channel leaves the river at an angle ofnearly 90 degrees. In April, 1900, the junction was blocked bysudd, but this was light and easily removed. Large shallow lagoonsextend on either bank, separated from the river by a belt ofpapyrus. The high land to the west ends about a mile from theriver, and the swamp recommences. To the east a line of palms,perhaps, 6 or 7 miles distant, not improbably indicates the banksof the Bahr El Zeraf. Above this point the Bahr El Jebel widens outfor some distance. In places its breadth is as much as 200 yards,and its depth from 15 to 18 feet. The swamps continue as before. Atmile 166 the high land approaches the river on the east, and runsparallel to it for some 2 miles. It is covered with bush and anoccasional Euphorbia. At this point a khor joins the Nile on thewest bank, bringing in a strong stream of water. Two villages(Nuer) are to be seen in the distance; these are probably Favor andFatooah of the German map (Julius Perthes). The mean velocity nowaverages 1½ miles per hour. Between miles 175 and 200 the high landand bush before mentioned touches the eastern bank at intervals. Atmile 187 there is a break in this ridge, and two or three channelsleave the Nile to the east. These are said by the natives to be themost northerly outlets of the Bahr El Zeraf. In 1900 a fine deleibpalm stood on the water’s edge at this point. This formed alandmark that could be seen for miles. It has now, unfortunately,fallen into the river. At mile 220, and again at mile 223, channelscome in from the west bringing water to the Jebel. These streamsmay possibly be the mouths of the River Rodi, or Yei, which issupposed to join the Nile somewhere in this locality. At mile 225the false channel, which, previous to the clearance of blocks 16 to19, was the only navigable line, joins the river. This was theroute followed by Major Peake and Lieut. Drury in 1900, in makingthe journey to the upper Nile. They found the passage verydifficult. During the transit they bent their rudder twice, andwent aground four times. From this point numerous channels join theBahr El Jebel on both sides. Many islands, covered with ambach andpapyrus, separate the stream into numerous branches, and the wholecountry is once more a waste of swamp. The Bahr El Jebel here isextremely narrow (25 to 30 yards), but is from 18 to 22 feet deep.The false channel in appearance far more resembles the main riverthan does the true one.
South end of true and false channels andof block 15	15	165 265
Land approaches east edge of channel	1	166
North channel to Bahr El Zeraf	21	187 301
Mouth of Yei (?)	33	220
North end old false channel	5	225 362
Ex block No. 16	18	243 391
„ „ 17	2	245 394
„ „ 18	½	245½ 395
South end of block No. 18	3½	249 401	It is hard to imaginethat this narrow, twisting stream can be the Nile. Its windings areworse than ever. A tree or a boat may be visible at a comparativelyshort distance ahead, and yet many miles of channel must betraversed before it is reached. The river here runs nearly duewest, while the false channel follows an easterly course, passingthrough numerous shallow lakes, until it joins the main river againat mile 249. At mile 240 the Jebel widens out again, and moreresembles a river in appearance than it did. Its average breadth isfrom 50 to 60 yards, and its depth is some 15 feet. Between thispoint and mile 248 occurred the four sudd obstructions, removed inFebruary, 1901, by Lieut. Drury, R.N., and which were known asblocks Nos. 16, 17, 18, and 19. At mile 249 the Bahr El Zeraf takesoff from the Nile, following the false channel for some distance,before branching off to the east. The width of this river at thehead is about 30 yards, and the outlet is surrounded by a sea ofmarsh. Just up-stream of this point there is a severe bend in theNile, which might one day give trouble. As the steamer passes,decomposed sudd rises to the surface.
Bahr El Zeraf	—	249 401
Shambe	7	256 412	The general character of the landscapenow changes, as land and forest are visible to the west, and atmile 253 from Lake No, the Shambe lagoon or khor is reached. Thisis a large lake, some 3 to 5 miles in length, and more than 1½miles in breadth. Its depth averages 4½ feet. The post of GhabaShambe is situated in north latitude 7° 6′ 30″, on the west bank ofits lagoon, at a distance of 1½ miles from the river. The land hereis about 2 feet over the water, but rises as the forest is reached.It is a dreary-looking spot, consisting of a mud-brick house insidea mud parapet, and a nuzl, and a few “tukls” erected on the flatshore of the lake; garrison of 25 men; a Dinka village lies not faroff. Shambe is nowthe chief Nile post of the Bahr El Ghazal province, and from hereproceeds the road inland to Rumbek (116 miles), &c. The riverwinds round the lake for some 8 miles, separated from it by a bandof marsh, about 600 yards broad. Large quantities of hippopotami.To the east the swamp stretches for a long way; at miles 255 and256 are two other outlets of the Zeraf River. The aspect of thelandscape is extremely desolate, with papyrus-covered marshesstretching in all directions. The river itself alternates betweenlong straight reaches or easy curves, and a series of sharp twistsand bends, which form a regular maze through the swamps. The watersurface is covered with masses of detached plants of thePistia (or sword grass) stratiotes. The mean velocityis 2 miles per hour; the average depth is 15 feet; and the averagewidth from 50 to 60 yards. For many miles the same dreary sceneryprevails. The river recedes a long way from the western forest, andon both sides an expanse of reeds and water extends. The width ofthe swamped area here cannot be less than 30 miles.
Abu Kuka	37	293 471	At mile 293 Abu Kuka, north latitude 6°54′, is reached. The papyrus swamp ceases just north of this point.Here the forest approaches the river, and the bank is dry. Thethick bush comes down to the water edge, the trees being about1,500 yards away. The village of this name is inland, and is notvisible from the river.
Kanisa	11	304 489	At miles 300 and 304, the old and newwooding stations of Kanisa are respectively situated on the westbank. Kanisa or “Heiligen Kreuz,” north latitude 6° 46′, is thesite of the Austrian Mission which was located here for many years.The church and buildings were situated on the eastern bank, only afoot or two above the water, but their traces are no longervisible. A large fruit garden formerly existed on the west bank,but only two large shady trees are still alive. This Mission wasabandoned in 1864 or 1865, on account of the deadly effects of theclimate. The only inhabitants now are a few Dinka. The forest isvery thick and consists of Sidr, other acacias, and a fewEuphorbia. This forest is continuous as far as the banks of theRohl, some 60 miles to the west.
			Immediately up-stream of Kanisa, theriver wanders away into the swamps as before. From this point, tomile 343, there is little to describe. The banks on both sides arevery flat and rarely more than 2 feet above low water level. Thepapyrus now practically ends. Occasional clumps are to be seen, butnowhere in continuous masses. Tamarisk is common. The spills fromthe river into the marshes are very numerous, more particularly onthe east bank. A line of trees on the eastern horizon, some 7 to 10miles away, appears to mark the limits of the swamp. It is easy tosee how the Bahr El Zeraf marshes are formed. At every few hundredyards the river spills into them. These spill channels are deeplycut, with vertical sides, as if dug by hand, and the amount ofwater discharged by them in flood must be very great. In size theyvary considerably. Their average breadth is from 3 to 5 yards, butsome are as much as 16 yards wide. Between miles 303 and 379, 129spills were counted, of which 97 were on the east bank. Probablymany more escaped observation.[37]
Lake Powendael	40	344 553	At mile 344 the large lagoon, known asLake Powendael, commences on the west. The river circuits this lakefor 4 or 5 miles, separated from it by a belt of swamp, varying inwidth from a few hundred to 2,000 yards. Lake Powendael is in manyplaces as much as 3,000 yards in breadth, but is very shallow. Itssurface is dotted with many small islands, and it is connected withthe river by several inlets. Hippopotami are abundant in theseparts. Both banks are now very low and flat, about 10 inches overthe water. The reach of the river between Bor and Kanisa isunendurably desolate and monotonous, wandering through continualswamp for some 100 miles. At mile 360 another large lake is metwith, also on the west. This sheet of water must be quite 4 milesin breadth, and the river winds round it for a long distance in aseries of very sharp curves. Many natives are to be seen fishinghere.
			At mile 374 a welcome change appears, asa limit is at last visible to the eastern swamps, which arepractically continuous from Lake No to this point. A line ofvillages (Dinka) stands 2 miles from the river, and behind themlies the forest. A little further up-stream these villages approachnearer, until at last, at mile 380 from Lake No, the high land onthe east comes down to the river.
Bor[38]	40	384 617	Bor, north latitude 6° 12′ 46″, is acollection of Dinka villages which stretch northwards (outside theswamp) almost to the Bahr El Zeraf. The forest here stands backfrom the river on the east bank, but the high bank comes close tothe water, except where a large backwater or lagoon passes throughit for some 2,000 yards. Gordon mentioned this place as aninconvenient wooding station, but it is very handy now. A few talldeleib palms stand out as land marks. The houses of Bor are neitherlarge nor important, but like in all Dinka villages they arewell-kept, neat, and clean. The huts are circular in shape. Theyare plastered with mud and have conical thatched roofs. Each has asmall door throughwhich the inmates crawl. The people show no signs of shyness andappear comfortable and contented. They possess large herds ofcattle. At mile 384 the river runs close under the high bank,hugging it for some distance. The land here is from 6 to 8 feetover the water, and is, of course, never flooded. The forestconsists of thick bush, with a few large trees; a distinctivefeature is the thicket of small deleib palms which cover theground. Not one in 500 of these young palms appears to develop intoa tree, but they form an extremely dense undergrowth. The Bahr ElJebel is now a fine stream, 80 to 90 yards wide, with a strongcurrent. On the west the marshes stretch into space. The valleyhere must be quite 20 miles across.
Dervish Deim	6	390 626	South of Bor, the sudd, properlyso-called, disappears. The marshes are formed of a deeper layer ofsand, covered with a thin surface of clay, and with streaks of clayrunning through them. These swamps, except in the centre of thevalley, are, as a rule, well over summer water-level, and the lossof water can be as nothing compared with that north of Bor. Thevegetation, too, is of a different kind, being chiefly grass, andthough dense enough, is not composed of those reeds which requireto have their roots under water for a great portion of the year. Atmile 390 the Dervish “Deim” is visible, situated on the east bank.This is the place held for so long by the Emir Arabi Dafaalla. Thespot is well chosen for defence, as the river sweeps round it ontwo sides. The bank all round has been cleared of bush for a longway. The “Deim” is surrounded by a mud wall forming a rectangle, ofwhich the river forms one side. The inclosure is some 400 yardsdeep by 700 yards in length. The mud bank, fast disappearing, isabout 4 feet 6 inches high, with an outer ditch 3 feet deep by 4feet wide. At the corners are small watch towers, and in otherplaces remains of loopholed houses. The Bahr El Jebel now, for manymiles runs close to the east bank. It winds continually, and thereare occasional loops of swamp, but as a whole it follows the highland closely.
Bor (military post)	8	398	Small military post, furnished fromMongalla. Formerly a wood station, now much cut up. Large numbersof elephants. This is to be the site of the Headquarters of the newAdministrative District of Bor.
			In places the bank is perpendicular downto the water’s edge, and from 6 to 8 feet high. At such pointsthere is always great erosion. The scenery more resembles that ofthe Blue Nile than the White. The forest close to the river, thehigh banks, the profusion of creepers and undergrowth, the boilsand eddies of the river along these curves, combine to form apicturesque scene, utterly different from that usually met with onthe White Nile. About 22 miles south of the Deim the Dinkainhabitants are replaced by those of the Bari tribe. The differenceis at once apparent. The “tukls” are untidy, crowded together, andbadly built. The people seem poor and possess few cattle. They livechiefly by fishing; in April the whole population is engaged inpreparing the land for cultivation, if the river allows, chiefly onthe west bank. At mile 404 the river bifurcates, one channelbranching off to the west, while the other, and the deeper, followsthe eastern bank. These two channels reunite at mile 422. The widthof the island between them is not very great, being rarely morethan 800 to 1,000 yards. The west bank is now a flat grass plain,marked by swampy depressions. The river must top this in flood, butnot to any depth, as the marks show that the total rise cannotexceed 4 feet. The west bank is inhabited by the Aliab tribe, asort of cross between Baris and Dinkas, but they considerthemselves quite distinct. The solitary mass known as Jebel Lado isnow first visible on the south-west horizon. The river above thejunction of the two channels averages 80 yards in width and 11 feetin depth. The bends and twists are never-ending, and there ishardly a straight reach in its whole length. The banks are verysandy, as are the flats which show up above the water. Occasionalsmall islands separate the channel into two or more branches.
Tree disappeared[39]	33	431 694	There is now adecided ridge on either side of the main channel resembling thatdescribed in the White Nile. East and west of this ridge the levelof the flats is lower, and in the depressions lagoons are formedand winding channels wander. The average width of the valley herecannot be more than from 5 to 7 miles. On either bank the forestline marks the high ground. On the narrow ridges above describedare located a few groups of Bari huts surrounded by fields of dura.The high ground does not average more than 100 to 200 yards inwidth. At mile 431 a magnificent tree used to be situated on theeastern shore. It made a striking landmark, but disappeared in1902.[39] The forest rises rapidly from the water, and atits highest point is quite 20 feet above summer level.One-and-a-half miles up stream, the river, which has followed theeastern bank for so long, now winds across in a westerly direction. In thuscrossing the swamps, an excellent idea of the general section ofthe valley is obtained. In the centre the flats are, perhaps, 2feet above the water; towards the sides they rise to a height of 4feet and sometimes 4 feet 6 inches. The lower portions are markedby a series of lagoons. These marshes are only, however, swampedwhen the river is in flood, and even then not to any great depth,as the total flood rise is not more than 4 to 5 feet over summerlevel. The valley averages 8 to 10 miles in width. The forest andthick bush extend to a long distance away from the river. Progressthrough this forest is only possible by means of the elephanttracks, which are very numerous. At mile 438 the channel againbifurcates, the two branches reuniting 5 miles up-stream. There areso many islands and so many side channels, that it is almost, ifnot quite, impossible to find the whole stream contained in onesingle channel, and this is the case the whole way between Bor andGondokoro. The river varies immensely in width. In places it isfrom 200 to 300 yards broad, and in others only 80 to 90 yards. Asthe Bahr El Jebel is ascended the average depth decreases, andthroughout the reach between Kiro and Lado is rarely more than from6 to 9 feet. At mile 451 the river touches the western forest edge,having traversed the marshes. The trees on this side are, as arule, finer than those in the eastern forest. The bank, at thewater’s edge, is from 3 to 4 feet high, but rises rapidly to aheight of 12 to 16 feet above the water. At mile 456 used to be anAnglo-Egyptian station, 1901 (west bank), now abandoned. Thescenery here is very fine, and luxuriant tropical vegetationabounds. Giant Euphorbia are a marked feature of the landscape. Thewhole of the banks and most of the trees are covered with avelvety-looking mass of creepers. A bluff, 10 to 12 feet high, jutsout into the stream, but the action of the current is so strongthat the friable soil is being rapidly eaten away. The face of thiscliff is perforated by myriads of holes, made by a very beautifuland tiny species of bee-eater. These birds have rose-coloured wingswith bronze-coloured bodies. They add much to the beauty of alovely scene.
Pole west bank (April, 1903) to mark 5°30′.	17	448 721
Western forest	3	451 726
Old Anglo-Egyptian station of Kiro.	5	456 734
([Illustrations])
Kiro (Congo F.S.)	4	460 740	At mile 400 from Lake No, the station ofKiro, the most northerly in the Lado Enclave, is situated on thewestern bank. The latitude of Kiro is apparently between 5° 12′ and5° 13′ north. The erosion caused by the river here is very great,large masses of the sheer cliff, which is 15 to 20 feet over thesummer water-level, are constantly falling into the Nile. It seemsprobable that unless they take protective measures the Belgianswill be forced to retire their houses some distance back from thewater. Kiro is a picturesque-looking place. The huts are well laidout and neatly built. The cantonment is surrounded by a brick wall,with places for guns, parapet, and ditch. The Commandant’s house isa comfortable-looking structure, with a good thatched roof and adeep verandah. The forest surrounds the station. The garrisonconsisted in January, 1903, of some sixty-five men. It possessed asmall steamer (the “Van Kerckhoven,” called after the leader of thefirst Congo Expedition to the Nile, 1889; the boat is clumsy anddraws 4 feet of water; but having been brought in sections overlandfrom the west coast she is entitled to respect), and several steelsailing boats. The negro soldiers differ largely in type from theinhabitants of the Nile valley. In figure they are short and squat,and some of them are much tattooed. They are recruited from theWest Coast, and from the tribes in the Congo valley generally, andmake excellent and very mobile soldiers. Upon an island oppositethe station vegetables and paw-paw trees are grown. Beyond thisthere appears to be little cultivation. Kiro is extremely unhealthyin the rainy season. In two years the Belgians lost 9 Europeans and300 natives from fever. Black-water fever is not uncommon here, andguinea-worm is a prevalent complaint. One-and-a-half milesup-stream of Kiro two fair-sized lakes are enclosed by the westernforest. These evidently receive the drainage of the high land froma considerable distance. On the east bank a khor, passable forsmall steamers, runs north-north-east, rejoining the river justnorth of Kiro. From here to mile 467 the river skirts the westernbank. Everywhere severe action is taking place, and many trees havefallen into the water. Three miles on another large lake opens outin the forest. At one end of it the Lado mountain forms abackground, making an imposing picture. At mile 468 anotherbifurcation occurs. The western branch follows the forest as far asLado, but navigation in summer by this channel is difficult. Theeastern branch crosses the marshes. There are several connectionsbetween the two channels. The river now averages from 250 to 300yards in breadth. At mile 472 the eastern forest is again reached.Here there is a good wooding station, as the trees and high landcome down close to the water’s edge.
Mongalla[40]	14	474 763	Most southerly poston the Nile of Sudan Government (occupied 1901), situated on eastbank. Garrison two companies. A gunboat is always stationed here,in addition to which there is usually a steamer at the disposal ofthe Commandant for administrative purposes. About 200 tukls. Open grassy, sandy spot;fairly healthy; 5 to 8 feet above water. Plenty of trees and bush.The Bari are the inhabitants of the district, but are few innumber; few supplies. Brick houses. Proceeding up-stream, the riverdivides, the main channel running through swamps, and the eastchannel skirting the villages of Sheikh Lado, Lowala, and Yemba.The depth is rarely more than 9 feet, though there are occasionalpools of 12 to 16 feet in depth. Hippopotami used to be extremelynumerous and particularly obtrusive, but seem lately to havedisappeared. A few huts are to be seen, chiefly on the easternshore. Most of these have been recently constructed, as many of theBari have migrated from the west to the east bank of the river, andhave settled on Sudan territory. At mile 477 the river again leavesthe east bank and crosses the swamps. The width of the valley nowcontracts to some 4 miles. Such a labyrinth of streams windsthrough these grassy flats that, without an experienced pilot,navigation would be extremely difficult, more especially as thedepth of water rapidly decreases. As it is, there are so many sandbanks that it is difficult to proceed at night. At mile 494 thewest channel, mentioned as branching off at mile 468, rejoins theeast branch, and half a mile up-stream the station of Lado isreached. At this point, with the exception of a moderate-sizedinlet some 3 miles down-stream of Lado, the river is confined inone single channel.
Sheikh Lado’s village, east bank	2	476 766
Lado	19	495 796	Capital of the Lado Enclave, taken on andrebuilt in 1898. Formerly an Egyptian post, and at one timehead-quarters of Emin Pasha. Situated on the bank 10 to 14 feetabove river. Very well selected position, protected on the north bya broad swift running khor and 2 forts, and on the south by animpassable morass; only land approach from the west commanded by afort. Surrounded on three sides by a rectangular parapettedenclosure, about 400 by 200 yards, one long face being open to theriver. Garrison, about 15 white officers and 500 men (1904).Enclosure contains about 20 good brick straw-thatched houses, andgood tukls for the men. Road leads to Rejaf (broad) and thence toYei, Ibembo and Mbima. Native track also to Kiro. Good bamboo andsome gum about Jebel Lado. Forest close by. Few or no supplies. Theneighbourhood of Lado is a desolate-looking spot, not nearly sopicturesque as Kiro, but, on the other hand, healthier. A flatplain with bushes stretches from the river for about 2 miles. Fromhere the forest commences, and gradually rises to the spurs ofJebel Lado, which is some 12 miles from the station. The food forthe troops has to be brought from a very long distance. In front ofLado is a low island, upon which vegetables, bananas, andcastor-oil plants are grown. This island is 4 feet over low-waterlevel at the south end, and was topped by the 1903 flood. Accordingto the Belgian officers, the flood water contains but littlesediment beyond sand, and this statement is borne out by thedeposit on the flats and banks. They further state that in floodthe colour of the water scarcely changes at all. There appears tobe no trade whatever, but a good deal of cultivation. The ivorycollected here is small. India-rubber is apparently not foundwithin any reasonable distance of the Nile. Owing to the two years’drought and one year’s flood, the natives on the west bank of theriver had no supplies. Lado possesses a fine herd of long-hornedcattle for the use of the garrison. Fever is very prevalent duringthe rainy months, but does not appear to be of such a deadly typeas at Kiro. In April, 1901, the rains had already commenced.According to M. Renier, the month of May in this region is one ofabundant daily rainfall, but this is not always the case.
			Proceeding up-stream from Lado, thescenery improves. Eleven ranges of irregularly-shaped peaks arevisible to the east and south-east. Most of them are covered withscrub, and round the bases the bamboo is said to grow inluxuriance. From the river bank up to these ranges extends a broadexpanse of reeds and grass, bounded by a dark forest line. To thewest the country rises rapidly in a series of ridges clothed withforest. The Bahr El Jebel now averages from 250 to 300 yards inwidth, and the depth ranges from 6 to 8 feet. Islands and sidechannels abound, and in flood time it must be difficult to saywhich is the main stream. The loss of water is comparatively small,as the grass flats are high. Numerous Bari villages on the eastbank and on the islands, but few on the west bank. Further south,range upon range of hills show up in the distance, one beyond theother. These are not very high, but are of striking outline andform an agreeable change to the eye, after days passed in thedreary flatness of the Jebel marshes. The width of the valley ishere about 5 miles from bank to bank. The Bari villages increase innumber on the east bank as the river is ascended. Jebel Lado stilldominates the western landscape, and Jebel Rejaf, a pyramidal andsolitary peak, marks the point where the reefs and rapids begin. Onapproaching Gondokoro, navigation becomes more and more difficultas the water shoals rapidly, and the maze of channels and islandsare perplexing and intricate; half a mile from Gondokoro are somebad shallows.
Gondokoro	9	504 810	At mile 504 from Lake No, the station ofGondokoro is reached. This place, on the east bank of the Bahr ElJebel, is the north frontier post of the Uganda Protectorate.Gordon gives the latitude of Gondokoro as 4° 54′ 29″ north, and thelongitude as 31° 43′ 46″ east. The altitudes given by differentauthorities vary so much that they are not worth recording.Gondokoro, although a healthy-looking station, has a deserted andscattered appearance. The buildings, mostly of bamboo and strawwith brick houses for the European staff, contrast but poorly withthose of the Belgians at Lado and Kiro; the station was occupied in1899. The Collector’s house, or Residency, is situated about 300yards to the north of the garrison lines, and 130 yards from theriver. It is built of burnt bricks, with a high thatched roof, onground 16 feet, or more, above the river, and surrounded by a thornzeriba. This and the M.O.’s house are raised on brick arches fromthe ground and surrounded by gardens and cultivation. The thornscrub approaches to within 1000 yards of the houses. The station issituated on a high cliff, from 18 to 39 feet above the water. Muchof this cliff has fallen in, and the foundations of the AustrianMission Buildings, abandoned in 1858, are now on the extreme edgeof the high bank. A few deleib palms and lime trees mark thisbluff. The station extends over an area of about 1 by ½ mile. Thenew lines are built some 400 yards back from the river. The presenthuts which accommodate the small garrison are circular huts of mudand grass. There is also a police barracks containing about 25 men.The remains of Baker’s old lines are still existing. He had here agarrison of 1,500 men, but in his time the Bari was a powerful andwarlike tribe. Gondokoro was, moreover, an important centre for theslave trade. Baker’s old lines consist of three rectangles, onewithin the other. The inner one is about 300 by 400 yards; thesecond, 500 by 800 yards; while the outer is, perhaps, 1,000 to1,200 yards square. Each of these rectangles is surrounded by a mudbank about 4 feet high, with an outer ditch 4 feet deep by 6 feetbroad at the top. There used to be plenty of trees, bananas,paw-paws, etc., and the station was, on the whole, a pretty one,but floods and white ants have now destroyed many of the trees. Tothe south and north of the station, and also 1¼ miles to the east,are large marshes, which must tend to make the place unhealthy. Attimes wild elephants come close to the lines. Many Bari villagesare located on the river near Gondokoro. All these are on the eastside. The Bari appear to be better agriculturists than are eitherthe Dinka, Nuer, or Shilluk. They cultivate dura, ground nuts,beans, and a little tobacco; also sweet potatoes, and manioc. Asmall market for local produce has been established, and Bari andLuluba keep it fairly well supplied; time, it is hoped, will bringan increase in population and cultivation. The castor-oil plantgrows like a weed in this locality. The average maximum flood riseof the river here over summer level is not more than 4 feet. In theflood of 1878 it rose to a height of 7·2 feet on the gauge (Chelu).The general direction of the river here is north and south, so thatGondokoro is well situated with regard to the prevailing winds. Themain channel, opposite the station, is about 400 yards across, butis separated from the main land by a large island.
			(For description of the river to theAlbert Nyanza, vide [Appendix, Vol. II.])

KIRO.

LADO.

GONDOKORO.

RECAPITULATORY TABLE OF DISTANCES.

	Intermediate.		From Lake No.
	Miles.	Kilometres.	Miles.	Kilometres.
Hellet el Nuer	139	223	139	223
False channel (22 miles)	4	6	143	230
Bahr el Zeraf (south end)	106	170	249	401
Shambe	7	11	256	412
Abu Kuka	37	59	293	471
Kanisa	11	18	304	489
Bor	80	129	384	617
Latitude 5° 30′	64	103	448	721
Kiro	12	19	460	740
Mongalla	14	22	474	763
Lado	21	34	495	796
Gondokoro	9	14	504	810

MONGALLA.

[17]The flood discharge at Berber is 14,000 metres cube per second.

[18]For full record of the history of the exploration of the Nile vide “The Nile Quest” by Sir H. Johnston.

[19]An endeavour is to be made during the winter of 1904-5 to explore the Bahr El Arab from its mouth.

[20]I.e., Meeting of the Rivers.

[21]According to some the change takes place at Lake No.

[22]The dates of its maximum levels upstream of the Sobat coincide with those of the Bahr El Jebel.

[23]The maximum is never reached until the late autumn, when the Blue Nile flood has passed away.

[24]Korti is 825 ft. above the level of the Mediterranean.

[25]A reconnaissance for a railway connecting Merowe with Abu Hamed was carried out in April and May, 1904, by Lieut. Newcombe, R.E. The amount of rock cutting necessary to lay the line near the river on the R.B. is said to be prohibitive, and the most feasible scheme seems to be to lay the line some distance inland and approach the river perhaps twice only between Abu Hamed and Merowe. The length of line would be roughly about 150 miles. It has been definitely decided to commence the construction of this line at an early date.

[26]Nowadays (1904) nuggers never make this journey.

[27]For practical purposes reference should be made to Capt. E. A. Stanton’s large scale sketches (I.D. Nubia District, 132) of 23rd August, 1897 (El Bana and Halfia), and 25th August, 1897 (Geridu Rapid). Letters refer to points thus marked on these sketches.

[28]A broad road or clearing has been made along both banks from Shendi to Berber. This is to be extended to Abu Hamed.

[29]For further details of this cataract see N.O. (1st edition, pp. 74-80; 2nd edition, pp. 78-83).

[30]The rainfall in 1903 was 67·9 mm. or 2·7 inches, of which 24·1 mm. fell in May and the remainder in July, August, and September. In 1904 the rainfall amounted to 21·4 mm. or about ¾ of an inch. Vide also [p. 12.]

[31]The steps taken to exterminate mosquitoes here have proved so effectual that they are now practically extinct. The few stray ones imported by the steamers from the Upper Nile are soon marked down and their larvæ destroyed. For methods of destruction vide “Report of Wellcome Research Laboratories—Gordon College—1904.”

[32]i.e., the point of junction of the Blue and White Niles opposite the South part of Omdurman. The distances are measured up the centre of the navigable channel, so they are not absolutely correct for the tracks on either bank. The (banks) itinerary given here does not always correspond accurately with the latest map, being sometimes based on road reports of previous dates.

[33]A Debba is a low mound, generally the site of an old or existing village.

[34]The native name for the late Fashoda.

[35]I.e., where the block formerly existed.

[36]At this point was the “Box” or “Sanduk,” on a pole, erected as a landmark and for letters.

[37]Vide also [page 144.]

[38]For fuller description of Bor and its people vide [page 144.]

[39]There is a large Gemmeiza tree, sheltering a rest house, with a wooding station, in this neighbourhood. Opinions are divided as to whether it is the original tree.

[40]For further description vide [p. 146.]

---

CHAPTER III.

NORTH-EASTERN SUDAN.

---

(Country bounded on the north by the Sudan-Egyptian frontier, on the west by the Nile from that frontier to the mouth of the Atbara, on the south by the Atbara and Abyssinian and Eritrean frontiers, and on the east by the Red Sea.)

Section 1.—Country between Halfa and the Atbara Mouth along the Nile Banks.

General.Along the Nile from Faras to Halfa the east bank is fairly well cultivated. From Halfa to near Kosha, with the exception of Sarras, there is little cultivation and practically no inhabitants. Most of this stretch is rocky and desert-like, and is known as “Batn El Hagar.” South of Kosha cultivation and villages become more general, and continue almost uninterruptedly to Abu Hamed (see Chap. II, Sections [1] and [2.] For the left bank, Dongola town, etc., see [Chap. IX.])

Between Abu Hamed and the Atbara junction there is little cultivation on the east bank, except south of Genenetti. From here to the Atbara there are about 500 sagias. The cultivated land, as a rule, extends about 500 yards back from the river, and in a few places as much as 3 miles.

The country enclosed by the river and the mainline Sudan Government Railways between Halfa and Abu Hamed is waterless, sandy, or gravelly desert, broken here and there by rocky hills and ridges. It is practically uninhabited, but is believed to contain minerals and workings of old mines near Kuror, etc. These are now being explored.

The soil on the banks of the river in the Dongola Province is rich and alluvial almost throughout, and well adapted for cotton cultivation. This province is in fact the richest and most prosperous in the Sudan.

Climate.Health is excellent all the year round. Very little fever, only simple cases. Little rain; showers may be expected in September. The wind is almost constantly from the north. Ophthalmia, common in Egypt, is rare in Dongola Province. During months June to end of September, the weather is very hot and enervating, but air dry.

Communications. Roads.Good roads, 5 metres in width, have been made on both banks of the Nile throughout the Province; bends can be cut off frequently, notably between Kosha and Abu Sari, a distance of 35 miles across the desert with no water (see [Chap. II]). There is a desert track on the right bank from Dongola (Naui) to Merowe, a distance of about 100 miles without water, and there are other desert tracks which have never been traversed by a white man; of these latter little or nothing is known.

Boats.Heavy goods, such as merchandise, grain, dates, etc., are mostly carried by boat, and there is no lack of transport for the needs of the natives in this respect; boats are constantly being built, and every encouragement is given them to do so.

A fortnightly post boat runs between Kerma and Merowe. From February to June, however, the low state of the river renders navigation for steamers dangerous through the rapids between Kerma and Dongola; during these months, therefore, the mail is carried by camels over this reach of 40 miles, transport requirements being conveyed by Government gayasas, of which there are 9 in the Province. There are two steamers (1903).

Population, riverain, and desert.From Halfa to Debba the inhabitants are Berabra.[41] The Mahasi dialect is spoken from Halfa to Kerma. Here the Gararish[42] and then the Danagla (Berabra), commence and continue to Debba; from there on to Berti are the Shaigia. From Berti to Khulla the Monasir are found, and then come the Robatab, who extend as far as Kerraba. From here on to the Atbara junction are the Angariab, Hagab, Merifab, and Fadlab. The few inhabitants of the desert are mostly wandering Bisharin.

The total riverain population of Dongola Province numbered (December, 1902) 105,026, and is rapidly increasing.

This is exclusive of nomad Arabs, whose numbers may be put down at 2,000 Gararish (along the river), besides Bisharin, and other Nomads (vide [Appendix F.]) on the left bank.

The occupation of the people is that of cultivating the ground, which they do very imperfectly except in Dar Shaigia; it could be made to produce double the amount.

The natives of Mahas and Sukkot lag behind, the fault being entirely their own; they are of an extremely indolent nature, perpetually quarrelling amongst themselves over questions as to ownership of land and date trees, and do little or nothing towards bettering themselves.

There is naturally a certain proportion of poor in the province, but agricultural labour being in demand, employment is always to be obtained by persons not too lazy to work.

Cultivation.The cereals mostly cultivated on the river bank are dura, barley and wheat. Cotton has hitherto been grown to a limited extent for local use only. On the completion of the Nile-Red Sea Railway a great increase in cotton culture is expected. A large amount of land, admirably suited to the cultivation of this valuable commodity, is available, and very large issues of Egyptian cotton seed have this year (1904) been made by the Government.

In the Berber Province the wheat and barley grown are of good quality, but both are expensive to cultivate.

Average yield per feddan (Berber),	barley	5	ardebs,	average price per ardeb,	PT.45 to PT.55.
„ „	wheat,	3	„	„ „	PT.75.
„ „	dura,	5	„	„ „	PT.35 to PT.80.

In the Dongola Province the crops are as follows:

Crop.	Months when planted.	Months when cut.	No. of crops yearly.		Average yield per crop per feddan of PT. 40land.
Dura	June and September	August and December	2	⎱ ⎰	3 to 4 ardebs.
Dura Shami	June	August	1
Wheat	December	March	1	⎱ ⎰	2½ to 3 ardebs.
Barley	December	February, end of	1
Simsim	September	October, end of, or November, beginningof	1

N.B.—The majority of the land will give three crops yearly, viz., twice dura and once wheat or barley.

The number of sagias in the Dongola Province in December, 1902, was 3,462, besides 77 shadufs and two pumps. There are now (1904), nearly 4,000.

Iron sagias, though tried, have been pronounced unsuitable as they are difficult to repair. Iron fittings for the old wooden sagias have, however, proved a decided success. European ploughs are not popular on account of their weight.

The chief requirement of all the riverain Provinces is agricultural labour, men of the fellahin type, who would teach the inhabitants how to till and tend the soil, and thus produce crops in proportion to the value of the land.

The local breed of cattle is fair, and moderately numerous, but might be improved in both respects.

Dates.The date tax (PT.2 per tree) is one of the principal items of revenue in Dongola. There are also a considerable number of trees in the Berber Province. It is hoped that the new railway will enable dates to be much more largely exported,[43] and thus materially increase the revenue of these Provinces. At present the freights are almost prohibitive. Date harvest, October and November. Quality in Dongola excellent, and ripen before those from Egypt, Tunis or Tripoli. In Berber the dates are not so good.

Dom palms.The dom palm furnishes a means of livelihood to many of the riverain inhabitants in the Berber Province. The leaf is made into mats, sandals, and baskets. Coir (lif) is largely exported to Omdurman, where it is made into rope.

Other trees.Besides the above, there are sunt trees mostly used for sagia building, and selem, talh, samr, and heglig mostly on the back lands, with haraz and the dwarf tarfa on the river bank. Tamarind trees are being introduced and are doing well.

Senna.A certain amount of senna grows wild in the Berber and Dongola Provinces. It is gathered by the Arabs, who transport it to Kordofan, and Aswan, where it fetches about £E.2½ per camel load.

Fruit.Melons and lemons are plentiful in the spring and autumn. People are commencing to cultivate the vine.

Trade.The import trade of the Dongola Province consists chiefly of cotton goods and such luxuries as sugar, tea, coffee, perfumery, etc., and of the export of cereals and dates. Business, however, is not brisk. The chief obstacle to the development of the import trade is the want of enterprise on the part of traders. There are excellent openings for merchants. The people are well off and willing to buy, especially such goods as cutlery, crockery, soap, agricultural implements, hardware, and such sundry merchandise, but at present (1904) there is not a single well-to-do trader in the Province.

Native cotton cloth, called “damur,” is worked throughout the Province, and forms the chief clothing of the men, who dress in shirt and drawers, with ferda (or toga) of this material.

Administrative.Crime is small in proportion to number of population. Inhabitants most peaceably inclined, and all (men, women, and children) work at their crops.

Housing.Villages are mostly composed of well-built houses straggling along the borders of cultivation. The houses are built of galus (mud and stones), with good court yards, whitewashed and clean. Very superior to those of fellahin in Egypt.

Miscellaneous insects.The “Nimetta” fly, a small midge, appears in countless myriads from November to April, both months inclusive, between Dalgo and Korti. The bite causes slight fever through irritation. At times they are absolutely unbearable, and cause temporary migrations of both white men and natives. Natives wear bunches of smouldering grass twisted round the head to keep off the fly.

White ants also are both numerous and most destructive between Dalgo and Korti.

Chief towns. Halfa.Halfa (Wadi Halfa), comprising “The Camp” and “Halfa town” is the capital of the Province of Halfa,[44] which extends along the Nile from Faras Island (N. lat. 22° 10′ approximately) to Abu Fatma. It is also the present headquarters and terminus of the main line (Sudan Government Railways) to Khartoum, as well as of the branch to Kerma. There are extensive railway workshops at the Camp. The latter includes barracks, prison, officers’ mess, native quarter, and the old fortifications. Also post and telegraph office. Population about 400, of which one-quarter are white. No garrison at present. Halfa was for years (1885-96) the headquarters of the Frontier Field Force which defended the southern frontier of Egypt against the Dervish invasion.

The civil quarter of Halfa lies 1½ miles to the north of the Camp. Here there is an excellent hotel, also railway station, post and telegraph offices, some good stores, and native bazaar. The population, which is composed chiefly of Egyptians and Sudanese, with a large sprinkling of Greeks, is about 2,900.

Berber.Berber is a long straggling mud-built town containing about 5,000 inhabitants. It was captured by the Mahdists after a certain resistance on the 26th May, 1884, and was re-occupied by the Anglo-Egyptian forces under Lord Kitchener on 6th September, 1897. It is now the capital of the Berber Province, but this will be moved to El Damer in 1905 (vide [Chapter IV]). There are at present two railway stations, Berber Camp and Town. Post and telegraph office. There are no good stores in the town, and there is little trade here at present. The present town lies 2 miles to the north of old Berber, and is the headquarters of an Egyptian battalion.

The desert road to Suakin starts from here (242 miles). Behind the town an immense flat plain stretches to the horizon. This is fertile soil, and only awaits proper irrigation to be reproductive. Berber is 1,140 feet above the Mediterranean or 95 feet below the level of Khartoum.