General Description of BAHR EL ARAB and DAR EL HOMR.

Immediately one emerges from the hilly country of the Nubas a vast level plain meets the eye, absolutely devoid of landmarks: the soil changes abruptly to rich black cotton soil with fissures, some so broad and deep that it is dangerous for bulls and donkeys, owing to their getting their legs jammed in the cracks. The surface of the land is uniformly covered with talh and heglig trees; occasionally tamarind and kau trees are met. Only two india-rubber trees were seen. The natives do not appear to know the use of these. The Bahr El Arab in section is very shallow, with no defined banks, and at this time of year water is more or less in pools. All the confluents are the same shallow watercourses, and the country appears to be one vast swamp in the rains. Only in a few places, Fauwel, Keilak, and Kuek, do the Homr Arabs remain throughout the year, as they say that the flies and mosquitoes torment men and beasts to such an extent as to make life unbearable.

103.—EL OBEID to SUNGIKAI, viâ EL ATSHAN and EL HAMADI.

By Deputy Inspector C. E. Lyall.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
El Obeid55After leaving El Obeid in a southerlydirection, road divides, going S. to Mereikab and S.S.W. to ElAtshan.
Road continues in S.S.W. direction, andthorn bush does not impede travelling; going generally good.
El Atshan1722El Atshan wells are reached, 22 milesfrom El Obeid; quite dry—20.4.03.
Leaving El Atshan, road divides S.S.E. toKadero, S.W. to El Hamadi; country generally open bush and goodgoing. Two khors with fine timber are crossed.
El Hamadi1840El Hamadi is reached 18 miles from ElAtshan. On 20.4.03 there was a little water in shallow wells inkhor; it took about 2 hours to get two burmas. On 5.6.03 there wasno water.
El Nebag747Leaving El Hamadi,road goes S.W.; at first a good deal of thorn bush, till passing ElNebag, which is a depression with many magnificent trees and inwhich there is water in the rains. After passing El Nebag the roadopens out, and the going is good and hard. After travelling 18miles from El Hamadi, El Hagiz, a shallow khor with some goodshade, is reached. Half a mile before reaching El Hagiz road isjoined by road from Um (Girban) Durban.
Khor El Haigiz1158
Sungikai, H. Gaghgagh1270Road continues in a S.W. direction tillSungikai is reached. The hella is 2 miles from the wells. Unlimitedwater.

N.B.—On El Obeid, Hamadi Sungikai road, except in rains, there is very little shade, except at El Atshan, Hamadi, El Nebag and Umhagiz.

104.—DILLING to EL OBEID, viâ SUNGIKAI, UM DURBAN and UM RAMAD.

By Deputy Inspector C. E. Lyall, June 1903 and March, 1904.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Dilling (Nuba)——The road from Dillingto Sungikai soon after passing Jebel Dilling separates from theDilling-Nila road and keeps W. of it. The general direction isN.E., the road is good going and fairly free from thorns. There area few patches of black cotton soil; after 10 miles the road crossesthe Khor Abu Habl,[33] and continues N.E. till Hellet Gad elKerim is reached.
Gad El Kerim (Hawazma)1616
Sungikai (Zeriba El Aguz)622The inhabitants of this village drinkfrom the wells at Nila, except during the rains, when they drinkfrom pools in Khor Abu Habl. The road keeps up on the rising ground, passingnumerous villages till the largest village in the immediateneighbourhood of Sungikai, Zeriba el Aguz, is reached.
Sungikai (H. Gaghgagh)224Leaving this village the road fromSungikai after being joined by roads from the numerous surroundingvillages continues in a N.E. direction till El Hagiz is reached, ½mile after passing which the road divides N.N.E. to Um Durban. Theroad, after passing to the W. of Zeriba el Aguz, goes H. Gaghgaghand thence to El Hagiz, where it divides W. to Um Durban and E. toEl Hamadi.
Um Durban (Kenana)2448The road is at first very winding with agood deal of shok, after about 6 miles it opens out, and continuesfair till Um Durban is reached; where on 5.6.03, there was a littlewater from wells in khor; in March 1904, the water had driedup.
Leaving Um Durban the road goes N.E.,after about 6 miles Hellet Kafawa is passed some 4 miles to the W.of the road.
Um Ramad (Bederia)3078The road continues in the same directionN.E., the going being uniformly good and free from shok, except ina few depressions and khors till after some 24 miles, when the soilbecomes heavy red sand, which continues till Um Ramad is reached.At this village there are numerous shallow wells and water holes,but they were quite dry on 6.6.03, but plenty of water 1.5.04. Thepeople drink from Abu Haraz and Obeid. The road from Um Durbanjoins the Abu Haraz road ½ mile from Um Ramad.
After passing Um Ramad the road broadensout into a track about 15 feet wide, and continues in a N.E.direction till El Obeid is reached.
El Gika583Five miles after leaving Um Ramad, thefirst El Gika village is passed ½ mile to the left of the road.Plenty of water 1.5.04.
El Obeid1194There are five villages at El Gika, eachabout a mile from the other; the road to El Obeid from El Gika runsparallel to the Abu Haraz-El Obeid road until it joins it about 3miles from El Obeid. On this road from Sungikai there is verylittle shade, except at the villages.

105.—ROUTES IN DAR NUBA—SOUTHERN KORDOFAN.

By Captain C. H. Leveson, 18th (P.W.) Hussars, December, 1903-March, 1904.

(i.) Jebel Tendik to Lukka.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Tendik——Large Nuba village of 1,200people. Most of the village is built in a hollow about 600 feet upthe jebel and on a ridge above it. Good water up on the mountain,also good below, where there is a garrison of half company 12thSudanese. Quiet, peaceable people; much cultivation; sheep andgoats, but not many cattle. A big khor runs along E. and S. ofjebel, through dense deleib palms. The road runs nearly due S., andcrosses the big khor at 2 miles—re-crossing it again almost atonce.
—5A jebelabout 30 feet high on W. Cross a ridge and a khor a mile furtheron. All good going over gravel.
16
17
18Crossanother khor, when road runs between parallel ridges of stony hillsfor 2¼ miles, when the Khor Sesaban is reached.
2¼10¼
J. Odam1¼11½A small hill, 400 feet onright. Cross Khor Ardeib, 8 feet deep.
Khor Ardeib1½13
For 5½ miles there is a rangeof low hills on right of road and for the next 5½ a low range onleft of road.
1124Cross a khor.
Khor Nueila125A milefurther on, and the Khor Nueila is reached. The main channel about15 feet deep and 30 yards wide. Beyond is a swampy track 600 yardsacross, with pools of water (December, 1903), biggest 100 yardslong and 3 feet deep. Good clear water. Much game; tracks of lionand leopard. Hartebeeste and wart-hog seen. Elephants live abouthere in rains. After crossing swamp, track leads up on to higherground, crossing a small khor, and at 1½ miles and further anotherkhor.
1½26½
1½28
½28½A small hill on right.
½29Cross khor.
½29½A hill on right, cross theKhor Id El Simoa, 6 feet deep, 30 yards wide.
1¼30¾Small hill on right.
131¾Cross Khor Jogham, 6 feetdeep, 20 yards wide.
132¾Small hill, J. Gelabi, onright.
Khor Hash Hashi3¼36A little water still standingin marshy ground behind main channel, which is 12 yards broad and10 feet deep. Cross khor, and for 2½ miles there are low hills onleft of road.
J. Thaba440J. Thaba on right of road,cone-shaped hill, with bald, smooth top, about 70 feet. A goodlandmark.
Khor Um Idara343Khor Um Idara, plenty ofwater here now. Tracks of lion. As usual, swarms of guinea fowl.Main channel 20 yards wide, 8 feet deep.
3½46½Khor Um Aleik, shallow,broad, sandy khor.
J. Obni1¼47¾J. Obni, half a mile away onright of road.
¾48½Khor Dabdub—small.
J. Doga½49J. Doga, 1 mile away on rightof road—jagged top.
J. Lukka3¾52¾Road curves round to right ina wide sweep and enters valley at foot of mountain. (Described inKologi-Lukka road.)
(ii.) J. Lukka to J.Errio.
J. Lukka——Road leads N. out of valleyfor ½ mile, then curves to left along high ground on northern spursof J. Lukka. Good going over gravelly ridges; by making shortdetours to right, at khors, all dismounting may be avoided. Muchcultivation on right.
Khor Tuffa—6The Khor Tuffa 20 yardsbroad, 12 feet deep; must dismount here—quite dry. Road becomesstony after khor.
Errio28Village of Errio is reachedafter bending round sharp to left and crossing a “nek,” or “col.”Many cattle. Population, Kawahla Arabs crossed with Nubas.Population about 700, under Sheiks Badei Bakr and Abballa Adam. Norifles seen. Quiet people; do not raid. Plenty of dura.
Water plentiful but dirty.Best camp ½ mile beyond village to S.W., on Tira El Akhdarroad.
(iii.) Route J. Errioto J. Talodi, viâ Tosi and J. Meselli.
J. Errio——Road runs S.W. through thornbush over cotton soil. Open country both sides; alsocultivation.
05½Pass small hill onright.
38½Hillock ¼ mile away onleft.
½9Cross khor, 12 feet deep, 12yards broad.
Tosi½9½Tosi village of about 500Kawahla Arabs crossed with Nubas, under Sheikh El Fadl Didigair,lying at south end of small stony hill 400 or 500 feet high. Watersupply poor. Supplies poor.
4½14Road now passes between hillsand drops down about 100 feet over an “agaba,” and leads throughcotton soil for 1 mile to
Khor Kagala2¾16¾A broad shallow khor in thickbush. A hill about 300 feet high on right of crossing. Goodgoing.
K. El Kirki2¼19Khor El Kirki—small.
J. Meselli221J. Meselli—on right.
K. Um Sinin223Khor Um Sinin; forestland.
K. Joghan528Khor Joghan; forestland.
½28½Crosses ridge and drops downabout 100 feet to
Amuti1½30300 yards on left of roadseveral big pools of clear good water. Best watering place; betterthan Tosi and Talodi after February. Good going to
Um Dual5½35½A small hillock and (inJanuary, 1904) a pool of clear water 120 yards long, 40 yards wide,4 feet deep. No shade.
Cultivation by people ofTalodi. About 1½ or 2 miles south is an odd needle-shaped rock some200 feet high, visible for 20 miles round.
Road now leads through thickforest for 4 miles. Roan antelope seen.
439½Cotton soil and lightbush.
K. Abu Um Jamad140½The Khor Abd Um Jamad noobstacle in dry weather. Cultivation begins again.
Talodi (Tebeldia)343½The village of Tebeldia, atE.N.E. corner of Talodi, is passed. It lies a mile away in valleyto right.
Talodi (Felaita)144½Village of Felaita andbarracks of half company 12th Sudanese.
J. Talodi is a ruggedprecipitous mountain, about 1,300 feet high and 28 miles incircumference. On its eastern face is a valley running a short wayinto mountain (village of Felaita in opening), which is said tocommunicate by a rough path, known as “Darb El Haramia,” with acorresponding valley on the western face.
There are three villages, allnominally under the head sheikh, an old man called Sherif Wad AbuOmo:—
Tebeldia,population800,SheikhMamun.
Felaita,„2,200,„Abdalla Shamsham.
Ageira,„800,„Shanna Wad El Aris.
The last named village liessome 7 miles away to the S.W. of the mountain. The inhabitants aredescendants of freed and escaped slaves of the Homr. There is asmall colony of true Nubas at the south end of the mountain.
They used to be notorious fortheir success in raiding. They possess about 300 or 400 rifles.Cultivation insufficient for their own needs. Water supply poor.They begin to trade for grain in February with the Nubas of J.Moro, at Kororak.
Half company 12th Sudaneseand Mamuria at Felaita.
(iv.) J. Errio to J.Talodi, viâ Tira El Akhdar, Tira Mandi and Kindirma(February, 1904).
J. Errio—Road leads out S.W. for ½mile, then west and through cultivation. Good going.
2½2½A khor—rough brokenground.
1¾4¼A broad shallow kohr.
2¾7Khor 11 feet deep. Had todismount.
¼7¼Khor 10 feet deep. Dompalms.
3¾11Slight descent to deep broadkohr, travel along it for 400 yards, and then climb out.
½11½Beginning to ascend a ridgeamong rough rocky hills.
1¼12¾Track leads over a smoothgravelly plateau for 1 mile.
113¾Road descends to cultivation;rough stony going.
114¾Track leads sharp to rightdown rocky side of hill into a grassy valley about 3 mileslong.
½15¼Cross broad sandy khor, withrivulet a yard wide in centre (February, 1904). Water disappears amile further down. Dom palms.
Tira El Akhdar½15¾Good camping place undershady trees by stream. The Nuba village is situated on the hills tothe west of the valley, which is only ½ mile wide.
They possess few rifles, but many spears andclubs. Population about 1,200, under Meks
(1)Shega.
(2)Amiri.
(3)Atuira.
(4)El Gamal.
(5)Ti.
They are greatly feared andhated by surrounding Jebels, owing to their raids. They are trueNuban, and wear no clothing. They own a lot of cattle andgoats.
419¾The track, rough and stony,leads S. along the edge of Western hills of the valley, and turnsto the right (W.) over a slight rise, a “nek” or ridge, and runsthrough forest land. Going better. Gravel.
2½22¼Track turns slightly N., andpasses by a khor, banks 20 feet, breadth of all channels 100 yards,and then runs through thick forest. Good going.
729¼Crosses abroad sandy khor 50 to 90 yards wide, and runs along W. bank halfmile to Tiramandi camp. Village is two miles away to the S.W., on aspur of the hill.
Tiramandi½29¾
Mek Nuwai; population, 700Nubas. Very poor, and had been lately raided, very few cattle, butare clearing forest along W. bank of khor for cultivation. Norifles seen.
231¾Track leads S.W. from camp,one mile to village, and then passes over low spur below villageround S. of hill, direction S.W. Rough and stony, much cut up bysmall khors.
233¾Gold is found here in therainy season, the rain displacing rocks and stones on the ridge tothe N. side of the road. The people search for it among the debris.They state that by hard work a man can get sufficient to pay histribute (apparently not worth working).
1¼35Road crosses a broad khor,and the hills on right of road trend away to the N.W.
Many small khors are crossed.Road bends round Southern end of a ridge at right angle toroad.
439Road crosses a broad sandykhor. Spur from J. Kindirma runs down on right to the khor. Aftercrossing, road bends round to left (S.), along Eastern face ofKindirma.
Kindirma1¾40¾A valley in the Eastern faceof a mountain down which a stream forms a succession of waterfallsand deep pools. 20 to 30 feet across, and six feet deep. A roughpath leads up along the waterfall to the top of the ridge, some 400or 500 feet, and on either side the mountain rises nearly sheer toa height of 110 feet. The Nubas live on top of the right orNorthern side, and their village is approached by a precipitouspath winding up the face of the cliff, and at times disappearing inclefts in the rocks, reappearing again 10 feet higher up.
On reaching the top of theridge one finds oneself in a valley formed by the mountains whichcurve back outwards from either side of the waterfall and uniteagain three miles from the ridge, forming a bowl-shaped hollow, thestream flows along the bottom of this basin and falls over theridge to the level of the main road outside Kindirma.
The Mek’s name is Gandal. Thepopulation is about 800 or 1,000. They have about 20 or 30 rifles.Lots of cultivation, both in the valley, inside the mountain, anddown by the road below, but few cattle. Have suffered a good dealfrom raids.
Road leads due S. throughthick bush towards small jebel, in direction of E. corner ofTalodi. Good going.
141¾Light forest.
243¾Cross broad sandy khor.
J. Mavlul245¾A smalljebel, known as J. Mavlul, about a mile long, is passed. Close toroad on left a small village on the N.E. spur of Talodi. Good viewof J. Eliri and all surrounding country.
6¼52
Talodi1¼53¼Corner of main jebel andvillage of Tebeldia on right in valley.
2¼55½Felaita village entrance tovalley. Mamuria and military post. Wells and water three feet fromsurface (February, 1904).
(v.) J. Talodi to J. Eliri.
The track leads straight outfrom the village of Felaita towards the centre of J. Eliri. Firstthree miles good going through light bush.
33Bush gets thicker. Cottonsoil, bad going.
A hillock4½7½A small hill on the left ispassed.
J. Abu Ghor310½Track leads S.E. round JebelAbu Ghor, a small hill; better going.
4¼14¾Thick bamboo clumpsobstructing track for four miles.
721¾Bad going. Cotton soil.
1½23¼Good going. Light bush.
Tebeldia wells1¼24½Two small wells in depressionin the ground, water two feet from surface, only sufficient for adozen camels. Takes an hour to fill again.
El Egheibish3½28A string of five or sixwells; sufficient water for 200 men and animals. Road hence muchcut up by small khors. Lots of deleib palms.
Taira village (J. Eliri)432Small village at foot ofmountain; population, about 800 revolted slaves of the Rowaugatribe of the Hawazma Arabs; much water and cultivation; SheikhRizkalla, 20 rifles. Few cattle. Plenty of sheep and goats.
Road good from Taira throughdura cultivation and light thorn bush.
Tanguru436A large village, populationabout 1,100 revolted slaves of the Rowauga tribe of the HawazmaArabs. Sheikhs Mohammed Geiga and Ismail Wad Umbaga. About 50rifles.
Much water and cultivation, astream falls from the cultivated plateau 700 feet above in themountains and there are many wells besides. There is a rough trackleading up the glen alongside the waterfall to the Nuba village ontop (Sultan Bilula); population, 1,000 pure Nubas. No clothes atall, very few rifles, all spears and knobkerries, lots of dura,cattle and sheep. They hold little or no communication with thevillages below; able to hold their own in case of raids.
Supplies sufficient for 500men for 3 days. Road hence to Kurondo, a jebel to the S. Good roadround jebel to Dallass.
Dallass4½40½Small village; population,about 600 revolted slaves of Abdul Ali tribe of the Hawazma Arabs.Sheikh Rizgalla Mursul. Twenty rifles, sufficient cultivation andwater for own needs.
Lakolo242½Good road round jebel, butstony; could be easily improved. Large village; population, about1,200 revolted slaves of the Khalifa tribe of Hawazma Arabs.Sheikhs Zaid Barsham and Abdalla Kaki.
Lots of water andcultivation. Road hence up spur of mountain to Nuba village on top.A solitary hill ½ mile S.E. of village. Was told the river was 1½days’ journey due S., and that the people took 4 or 5 days morefrom there to Kodok by boats. Many cattle and goats. About 50rifles.
(vi.) J. Eliri(Lakolo) to J. El Amira.
J. Eliri—½Pass hill on right.
11½Cross khor.
2½4Cotton soil and thick thorntrees—very bad going.
Village26Goodgoing; road curves round jebel by rocks, and reaches village amongdeleib palms and tebeldi trees. Little cultivation and poor watersupply; population, about 200, no arms; very poor. Remains of Nubavillage on top. Was told the Nubas left the jebel and went S. toriver to live in Dinka country a year ago. River said to be 1½days’ journey due S. A few sheep and goats.
2¼8¼
Road hence to J. Kuronde,about 5 miles S.W.
(vii.) J. Eliri (Lakolo) to J.Werna.
Lakolo——
—½Road runs E., cross khorwhich runs along right of road.
½1Cross khor. Road runs betweenlow parallel ridges of hills named Lohno. Rough and stony.
12Road bends sharp toleft.
Lohno½2½Village of Lohno, small,population about 200. Very little cultivation, bad water supply.Road now bends to right, crossing rocky ridge.
½3Cross khor, bad going.
¼3¼Cross big deep khor, and turnsharp to right.
¼3½Recross big khor, road turnssharp to left.
½4Cross another khor.
½4½Going becomes better, roadruns through forest land.
3¼7¾Cross khor.
¼8Cross khor.
19Going becomes rough.
3½12½Turns sharp to left to Nubavillage of
Tekeim½13Tekeim, small village;population about 400; good water supply; little cultivation, veryfew cattle, but lots of goats.
1½14½A cross road leads to theTekeim dura fields.
½15An “agaba.” Camels had to beled up; cross a khor other side of “agaba.”
116Cross another khor, goingbecomes better.
1¾17¾Cross a khor, track leaveshills, good going.
El Girid1¼19A cone-shaped peak amongsthills to right known as El Girid, about 3 miles off. Bush veryopen.
423Bad going, cotton soilbegins, a most dreary view.
427Going better.
128Small hill ½ mile toright.
230Low hills ½ mile onleft.
434Cross khor.
Werna135Enter Werna hills, a group offive or six rocky hills about 300 to 400 feet high on smooth openground.
Population about 1,100,mainly revolted slaves of the Khalifa tribe of Hawazma Arabs underSheikh Abdul Naim. The original population was Nuba, but are nowvery much in the back ground. The real “Mek” is Abu Gabr Azaz. Theyhave about 40 rifles.
Plenty of water andcultivation, few cattle, many goats. People trade to river atKodok.
(viii.) J. Werna toLukka, viâ J. Morung, J. Gedir and J. Kologi.
Werna——
—2Road takes a wide curve outN. (to right) to avoid a swamp which exists all the year round.Good going until cotton soil, then bad going. Very opencountry.
Swamp2¼4¼Cross 100 yards of marshyground (end of the swamp).
¾5Cultivation for ½ mile, hugecrops of dura.
½5½Road turns to left over verybad cotton soil and through dense thorn trees.
38½A big khor, water standing inpools 100 yards long and 4 feet deep. Duck of two kinds and lots ofgame. Roan antelope and tetel.
1½10Firm ground; good going.
111Cultivation as far asMorung.
Morung213Village on conical hill;population: Kawahla tribe of Hawazma Arabs, much mixed with Nubas.Sheikh: Hassan Wad Tieb.
Population about 1,000; 30rifles. A fula supplies village with water until end of January;they then open wells. Good water supply. Plenty of cattle, sheep,goats and donkeys.
After leaving Morung for first 13½ milesgoing very good, through light bush and forest, perfectly flat; nohills.
13½26½A khor, cotton soil and thornbush begins.
127½Good going again.
1½29Cotton soil, and a big khorwith pools of water, dry by end of February.
1½30½A khor, bad going.
131½Good going.
132½Road bends to right, towardsS.E. corner of Gedir, and runs along base to corner.
436½Trackruns round corner and bends sharp to left to village of Mek Bosh,of Gedir. Population about 1,200, about 60 rifles; fair watersupply 10 feet from surface. Much dura cultivation. Population:Nubas. Plenty of cattle and sheep.
Gedir½37
Two other villages, Semat andGheibish, described on road to Kologi.
Road leaves Mek Bosh’svillage and runs round another spur at E. end of jebel, passing theMahdi’s rock where he used to preach to the people, and followsNorth-eastern face.
Semat138Small village of Semat, about200 people.
1½39½Track enters gorge, rough,stony going—between main jebel and a ridge of rocky hills runningout N. to J. Girada, 4 miles off.
El Gheibish140½Road clears N. end of themountain, and at the end of a spur is El Gheibish, a small villageof about 400 population, 40 rifles; fair water supply, lying amongdom palms. Road hence straight to J. Lukka.
1¼41¾Another road leads over verybad cotton soil to a khor, light thorn bush, bad going, cottonsoil.
2½44¼Firmground and good going through light forest, passing one village at11 miles, and reach main village of Kologi, lying among dom palmsunder the hill.
4¾49
Kologi villages——Population of the twovillages, about 1,500. They are sedentary Arabs (much crossed byNubas) of the Kawahla tribe of the Hawazma Arabs. Sheikhs GadumHassib El Nebi and Akhman Fadlalla.
No arms to speak of; quietpeople; do not raid. Fair water supply from wells; water eight feetfrom surface. Much dura cultivation. Many cattle, sheep andgoats.
Road leads out due N. towardsJ. Lukka.
K. Harrug¾49¾The khor Harrug; noobstacle.
½50¼Cross a ridge; rough stonygoing. Road leads straight towards Lukka between small rockyhills.
3¾54Road turns to right to getround Eastern spurs of J. Lukka, through thick thorn bush, andacross broken stony ground and small khors and ridges, and bendinground to left enters a valley and the village of Lukka.
Lukka2¼56¼Kawahla Arabs, with a crossof Nuba; Sheikh Janga Rahma. A large village of 1,000 people; norifles to speak of. Quiet people; do not raid. Much duracultivation. Water supply bad at camping place and insufficient for50 men and animals. Good clear water is obtained about 600 feet upthe mountain, where the Nuba colony get their water. Good campingground. Shade. Plenty of supplies, cattle, sheep, and goats.
(ix.) J. Talodi to J.Kadugli, viâ Kororak, Um Dorein (in J. Moro), Homra andSema.
Talodi (Felaita)——Roadleads S.W. along face of mountain, through the villages of Felaita,and turns W., following Southern and South-western face along thebase of the hills.
—2
J. Burham is seen 8 or 10miles off to the W., and J. Krongo a long way off to theW.S.W.
57Here theroad leaves the mountain and strikes off across the plain in aW.N.W. direction over cotton soil to a swamp, water one foot fromsurface (February, 1904).
Swamp½7½
29½Firm, good going.
514½A small rocky wooded hillockon right of road.
Kororak620½The road, skirting N.E.corner of Durham, leads straight to Kororak, a Nuba village in J.Moro. The village is high up on the face of the cliff. Population,about 1,500. The various Meks’ names are:—
(1)Tambura.
(2)Toto El Azrak.
(3)Toto Agari.
Plenty of dura, very fewcattle or sheep; no rifles.
People of Talodi come here tobuy grain.
Mountains of Digig andMasakin to south. Road follows base of hills at Kororak for 1 mile,and then strikes off West across rough gravelly soil and thornbush.
222½Cotton soil and thick thornbush.
123½Firm ground and lightbush.
Dorein3½27Road strikes the hills againat Um Dorein. Very small Nuba village on spur on left of road;small hill on right. Meks’ names are:—
(1)Toto El Ahmah;
(2)Abu Falang.
Road passes over ridge, stillgoing West over a small cultivated plain, with hills ½ mile away toleft and ¾ mile on right.
½27½Small rocky ridge in front.Best road leads to the left and then turns sharp to right round theridge and over broken rocky ground.
128½Track descends on to very badbroken cotton soil. Impassable swamp in rains for animals.
Well1¼29¾Track strikes mountain again.Well (water 2 feet from surface) on side of road after leaving theswamp.
231¾Road runs West along southface of hill and at 2 miles turns half right. Good going.
132¾Road leaves J. Moro andstrikes off W.N.W. across plain through light bush; very good goingto
Homra4½37¼Large Arab village,population 1,200. Great number of cattle, sheep, and goats. Wells,water 8 feet from surface.
K. Meshisha1½38¾Cross big Khor Meshisha, 40yards across, 5 feet deep.
1½40¼More Arab encampments,inhabited in rainy season, but deserted now (March, 1904).
141¼Cross deep khor, 8 feet, 8yards wide. Alternate cotton soil and fair going through thickthorn bush to
3½44¾A khor known at Sema andKadugli as the “Wadi.” A small hill on right; cotton soil.
549¾Alternate good and bad goingthrough thorn bush.
½50¼A shallow khor; lightbush.
Sema1½51¾Village of Sema, open stonycountry at foot of hills; population about 300. Mek Guru.
Three or four wells. Water 15feet; bad supply; only sufficient for five or six men and animalsat a time.
From here road turns N.W. andfollows base of hills over stony ground.
152¾Rough going; pass small rockyhill on right; a good deal of thorn bush.
254¾Track becomes clearer andleads over cotton soil past the wells in a khor to
Kadugli155¾Kadugli (Arab encampment), afew tukls against the S.W. end of a ridge of small hills. KadugliNuba village is 1 mile due E. on the main range called Ghuhub.
The Mek is Rahal Andal, anenergetic and trustworthy man. Has great influence for 50 milesround.
The Sudanese infantrybarracks, ½ company, are just beyond the encampment, and thegarrison has opened several wells of excellent clear water 6 feetfrom surface.
Supplies unlimited fromKadugli. Population of village about 1,200. They have about 50rifles.

[28]Between J. Kon and Taiara there is now a more direct road, viâ Yasin (W. Lloyd, 1903), but water is said to be very scarce (More, 1904).

[29]It is better to go to Bir El Wuz, N. of J. Um Durrag.—H. H. S. M.

[30]There is.—H. H. S. M.

[31]In October 1900 Captain W. Lloyd found several pools of water from 20 to 30 feet in diameter and 4 feet deep; probably rain-water.

[32]There is a more direct road from Dilling to J. Gulfan, 26 miles.

[33]There is an upper road which does not cross Khor Abu Habl at all. Distance by it much the same and it is more practicable in the rains. It passes W. of H. Gad El Kerim.

CHAPTER IX.

(NORTH-WESTERN SUDAN.)

106.—SELIMA to NILE opposite KOSHA.

By Captain H. Hodgson, February, 1903.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Selima——Track to river bears at first at 152°,and after ascending out of valley turns, and, bearing to point onroad 3 miles away, where the trees of Selima are last sighted, is118° (Magnetic). On top of rise, 6 miles out from well, a pair ofhills are sighted on horizon, at bearing of 124° (Magnetic), whichare close to the track and about half way to river. These twinhills of conical shape must not be confused with another pair lyingabout 80° or 90°. Track diverges northwards slightly, and runs atbearing of 119° to a conspicuous and isolated peak; best route liesclose to the N. of this peak. Country flat; a sandy plain, with fewland marks.
First halt38½38½Halted after going 2 miles past twinpeaks.
River Nile, opposite to Kosha4179½The regular track to the river goes toSagiet El Abd, and runs to S. of a mass of black rocky hills lyingin the centre of a sandy plain. These hills are spoken of as JebelEl Tult. I marched to the N. of these hills, and struck the riveropposite to Ginnis, the land mark being the hill marked Jebel Hamraon Kosha sheet. General direction 112°. Jebel Abri is, I am told,the mountain to march on when going to Sagiet El Abd.

107.—DONGOLA to LAGIA EL KEBIR (ARBAIN ROAD).

By Captain H. Hodgson, December 16 to December 31, 1901.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Dongola——From Dongola the route lies nearly due W.to Um Hellal; the chief landmark is Jebel Nosab. After leavingNosab there is a bad bit of going, entailing about ½ hour’swalking, descending into valley containing the wells. Camels cantrot the rest of the way.
Um Hellal Well2020Is good sweet water; the water lies about9 feet from the surface; plenty of grazing for camels. About sevenfamilies live here through the winter, and it is possible to getgoat’s milk and a few eggs and dates. A ruined fort, probably 100years old, with a well in the yard (water 12 feet from surface) isabout ¾ mile away; it is called El Gab, and the whole oasis seemsto take its name from it. Um Hellal is also called Gab ElTahtani.
El Sawani323El Sawani has three wells close together.A number of sunt trees give very good shade. There are more datepalms and it is a better camping-ground than either Shemsi or UmHellal. Water is good, and about 10 feet from the surface; thewells are in constant use. About eleven families live here throughthe winter, considerably more during the summer.
Gawit——Water reported near surface and easilyobtained; good browsing, very little shade; all dom palms burnt bydervishes.
Shemsi1033Water near surface, in clay soil andplentiful; one pan sufficient for my party (twenty camels andeighteen men) taking water for 4 days. Two or three good shadyclumps of trees and plenty of browsing for camels. It would bedifficult to pitch tents owing to deep sand. The landmark forShemsi is Jebel Bowarib, which is a double hill of two small peaksof black volcanic rock, standing solitary about 3 miles N.W.
Butta——I did not visit the well, as all theguides agreed the water was brackish and bad; the landmark fromShemsi is a low round hill, thus, nearly covered with yellow sand,distinctive, as surrounding hills are peaked and black rocky hills.There are apparently about five hills surrounding the water pans,each called Jebel Butta.
Jebel Fantoria942About 12 miles N.W. from Shemsi; standsout well, and can be seen at a long distance. Charles Neufeld wascaptured by the dervishes close to this hill.
Jebel Abiad5698Between Selem (18½ miles from Shemsi),where there are some bushes, and Lagia there is nothing for camelsto feed on, and forage must be carried. I did not see the track ofany living thing, either when going or on return. There are nospecial names for any hills except Jebel Abiad, the N. end of achalk range, which ends in an abrupt cliff and can be seen at along distance.
El Gir36134There was reported to be water last year.We dug a well to depth of 7 feet, without result. The Arabs statethe country is more dried up this year than it has been since thedate of the battle of Toski.
Lagia Amran19½153½Lagia the Less, also called Lagia Amran,from the colour of the ground, lies in a plain about 8 miles longby 5 miles wide, surrounded entirely by rocky hills; there are onlytwo entrances through encircling hills that are easy marching.Water lies within a foot of the surface, and is very plentiful.Ground consists of red clay with drifts of sand; the Arabs saythere was formerly no sand, and that during last few years it isgradually covering ground, probably owing to dry seasons.
My party dug a water pan out of the clay(3½ feet deep and 12 feet circumference). It was quite full of goodwater, with a certain amount of clay in solution, which settled onstanding, on our return 2 days later. Without this pan there was aplentiful supply of water from older diggings which the camel-mencleared of sand. There are some bushes and small trees, about ½mile from the water, which afford feeding for camels. We also foundwater about ½ mile to S.W. of old water holes.
Lagia Kebir12½166Or Lagia Agar. Some five or six pans ofwater; good and near the surface, springing from similar soil toLagia the Less, but not so abundant. We dug for water in threelikely places, about ¼ mile to the W., without result. The wellslie in an open plain; no vegetation near, except about six to tensmall trees about 3½ miles to W. giving a little feeding forcamels. To the N. the plain is shut in by a steep rocky ridge ofhills, and the road to Selima Wells lies across it; on reachingsummit of ridge there is only a stretch of rock and stones to beseen. Arabs state it is the road to Selima, and there is nograzing. To the S., the road to Sultan Well (the place where Natronis found) lies across an open plain, and is easy going. The tracksspread considerably and extend across a width of over a mile.
An oasis, called Tura, is reported to lie4 days’ journey in a S.W. direction, containing date trees, whichis visited at date harvest time by the Bedai tribe. Sheikh Fadl ElMula is the only one of the party who had been there, and he saidthe water is very bad. Except for the above, the guides say theyhave no knowledge of any water to the W. of Lagia, and that thereis no road with a direction of N. and S. lying to the W. ofLagia.

108.—DONGOLA to BIR SULTAN (ARBAIN ROAD).

By Captain H. Hodgson, February, 1903.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Dongola, or Gharbi Dongola——After half an hour’s marching, reachedbuildings of former District, which stand 1 mile from mosque on E.bank by range-finder, and at an angle of 78° (magnetic). Left at 9a.m. Going easy over hard sand. Marched parallel with river untilnear Kheleiwa as marked on map (Debba Sheet 45, E.), then turned W.and marched about 2 hours to well.
At Kheleiwa on river there are old ruins.A legend has it that there is an underground passage from theseruins to the well in the desert to the W.
Kheleiwa Well (1st halt)19¾19¾Kheleiwa well stands in the centre of amound covered with broken burnt bricks; the first 6 or 8 feet fromthe surface is built with stone, then it is dug into solid rock; onlowering a candle to within 6 feet of the water, the sidesdisappear from view, and apparently there is a wide chamber atbottom of well; candle burnt freely, water 2½ feet deep, depth ofwell to water 96 feet.
Bir El Marghum (2nd halt)32¼52Marched at 2.30 a.m. The track is welldefined, being the main road from Debba to Wad El Gab, and is easygoing the whole way, direction about 330° (magnetic). About 24miles from Kheleiwa Well ground begins to fall, and the Wadi El Gabmay be said to begin.
El Marghum is the most southern well inEl Gab and one of the deepest, being about 20 feet deep beforereaching water, and is stone lined, water good, cool, and pleasantto drink, depth of water 3½ feet, and reported always plentiful.This well is said to be 6 hours from Khandak with an easy road.Near well are one or two good sayal trees and selem bushes, but nodate palms.
Awene——Marched at 7.30 a.m., track from ElMarghum to Um Hagar, direction 330°. After 1½ miles a trackbranches to Shoki at direction 295°. Sheikh Mohammed Awadalla, thehead of the Gunganab, one of the largest of the Kababishsub-tribes, lives at Awene. The water of this well is about 8 feetfrom surface and luke warm, it lies about 6 miles from Marghum;there are a number of fine sayal trees about, as well as date anddom palms; good shade.
El Agari——This is a small well without stonefacing, water cooler and pleasanter to drink than Awene, lies 1½miles from latter. Surrounded by selem bushes.
Id Wad Medawi——Dwelling of the former Sheikh ofGunganab, an old man, reported age 115 years, very feeble; a numberof date trees near here, and track to Millan passes a number oftukls used during date harvest season.
Bir Millan1466This well, about 14 miles from Marghum,is surrounded by about 20 big sayal trees giving good shade, thereis also a lot of littel shrub on dunes near; it is impossible toapproach well from S., owing to the shifting sand dunes; this wellis practically the limit of the Wadi El Gab. Water good andplentiful.
From Millan track runs nearly due W.,crossing a district called Imsinni, where a number of goats aregrazed, being watered every third day at Millan.
Um Hagar (3rd Halt)6½72½A stone-lined well, at present filledwith sand to within 6 feet of the mouth. Sand is damp and mighteasily be cleared. The Kababish do not use well for fear of theBedaiat, who raided this well and Matassi in 1902. Good grazing forcamels.
Matassi (4th halt)981½From Um Hagar track runs nearly due W.,the going is indifferent; a little grazing on hadr on the way.Matassi lies in a plain some 5 or 6 square miles in extent; wateris very plentiful and about 3 feet from surface; watered 70 or 80camels from the four or five pans that were open with ease; thewater is cool, pleasant to drink, and seems to have the property ofcooling very rapidly after boiling. Kababish captured camels fromBedaiat here two years ago. A few wild date palms, but practicallyno shelter from sun or wind.
Murrat586½General direction W. Murrat, about 5miles from Mutassi, is a low-lying plain, containing a few selembushes, and three or four groups of date and dom palms; watereasily found, but it is bitter and undrinkable; going fair; blackrock predominates.
El Hofra4½91A plain encircled on E. and S. by aridge, and on the N. by high sand dunes, some littel shrub, and afew dom palms. One dom palm which formerly had a well next it isnow buried in a sand dune which has moved a ¼ of a mile in last 10years. No shelter from N. wind or sun.
Sixth halt23½114½General direction 230° to 240°, goingeasy; about 12th or 13th mile from El Hofra found a few patches ofgrass, indicating rain here last season. About 17th mile goingbecomes more difficult and ground rises. At 20th mile a highconical (?) is reached, from which plateau of Jebel Abiad is to beseen; erected a pile of stones at this point. Ground then slopesdown, and track lies through a depression until at 23rd mile aplain is reached, extending 17 miles to bluff of Jebel Abiad. Herethere is some hadr grass, affording some grazing. The plain isscattered with lava-like stones.
Seventh halt (on plateau of J.Abiad)32½147General direction due W. to a ravine inJebel Abiad. The J. Abiad is a steep bluff of gypsum, running fromN. to S.; it is the same range as is skirted by track from Dongolato Lagia Wells. After ascending bluff direction is W.S.W., across aplateau with a very gentle slope down towards the W.; surface isshingle scattered with agates and flints. Could obtain no shelterto halt near.
Tundubi (8th halt)24171About 1 hour after leaving last haltpassed a rocky patch of ground, where the track is well defined,the only place where old lines of tracks are seen, being about 18miles from bluff. About 28 miles from bluff crossed a valleycontaining gottab grass and some other grazing. At Tundubi a wellhad been opened recently, and my party, after deepening it tonearly 30 feet, were able to water about six camels and fill upskins. Latest report is that the well has been filled inmaliciously. There is abundance of gottab, hadr, and akol, givinggood grazing, also some fine tundub trees and selem bushes. Aquantity of senna also grows here.
Ninth halt27198General direction W.S.W. (at 250° by P.compass), very easy undulating country.
Tenth halt12½210½About 31 miles from Tundubi met acaravan, on descending into a valley, along which the track lies.Easy going. No shelter. Saw ostrich tracks.
Eleventh halt28½239Easy going all day; general direction W.Jebel Raya is seen some 10 miles away to the S.; it lies on theroad from El Ain to Bir Sultan. Found a good place to halt, with afew tundub trees and some hadr scrub.
Twelfth halt23262Same general direction W. After 3 milesdescended into a deep sandy khor, containing some hadr scrub(difficult going), marched along it for an hour in direction 250°;then crossed a rocky ridge for 10 miles, then an open plain ofshingle for 5 miles, and down another khor of deep sand with clumpsof hadr scrub in it, direction 260°. Then direction changedconstantly to avoid conical hills. Halted on rocky ground.
Milani——Two hours’ easy marching and then 2 hoursacross an exposed plateau of rocky ground, before reaching a steepdescent down to Milani; a thick clump of selem trees in the Natronvalley. At Milani water is apparently very plentiful, the sandbetween the dunes being wet and brown. Did not try to obtain water,as, though drinkable, it is reported not to be so good as the waterfound at Sultan, 3 miles away.
Bir Sultan——Sultan, a low-lying area of about a ¼mile square of uneven ground covered with tussocks of halfa grass.Water easily obtained and plentiful. I found two or three pansopen, at which animals can get to the water themselves. There arefive or six date palms, also grasses such as tamam, halfa, taklis,but no shrubs, at Sultan. It lies nearly due S. of J. Kashaf.
Natron diggings (13th halt)21283The best natron bed lies about 2 milesaway from the water at Sultan by the shortest and most direct routeto the river, it is probably not more than 250 miles instead of the283 I travelled. The diggings have the appearance of a sandy saltpan, from which sea water has run off, the sand being encrustedwith a white salt-like substance. To obtain the natron the uppersurface of sand, about 2 inches to 4 inches, is cleared away, untilthe natron, a substance resembling rock salt, is reached. The toppart is usually bad, being half sand; then there is a seam of ½inch to 2 inches of good natron, again below a little bad natron,and below all sand again. Sometimes all the natron is spoilt bybeing mixed with sand. The whole place is scattered with scores andscores of oryx and addax horns, which seem to have been the tool,since time immemorial, with which to dig out the natron.
Jebel Kashaf——Jebel Kashaf lies 2,400 yards from thenatron diggings, and E. of them at direction 133°; it is a highconical hill centrally situated in the northern part of the valley,and from its summit the whole valley and various halting places areoverlooked. To the S. and S.W. is a level plain, reaching to thehorizon without landmarks.
The Arbain road runs S.S.W. apparently,to a place called Domi (1 day), where there are a few dom palms,and then from there branches to Meidob and to Zaghawa, which latteris reported to be 5 or 6 days from Natron valley in a S.W.direction.

109.—DEBBA to EL OBEID.

(Route during Rains).

Compiled from Various Sources, April, 1903.

(Distances only roughly approximate).

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Debba——
Um Belila3535Hole in sandy bed of wadi, about 12 feetdown to water’s edge. Excellent water and any quantity, amountdepends on digging.
El Amra4378Water good andplentiful, obtainable by digging in sandy bed of wadi. From hereduring the rains travellers go to Hobagi, where there is a hofrawhich contains no water in the dry season.
Hobagi67145
Haraza60205Water good and plentiful from a spring atfoot of jebel. From thence viâ Kajmar to El Obeid.Vide also [route 81,] Chap.VIII.

N.B.—During the dry season, merchants do not travel viâ Hobagi, as the hofra there is then dry. A considerable détour is made from El Amra to Elai, thence to Habisa, where there many wells, and thence to Bagbag Wells and Kajmar.

110.—DEBBA to OMDURMAN.

Major H. V. Ravenscroft, January, 1900.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Debba Camp——On leaving camp, a southerly direction istaken over sandy ground, leaving Wadi El Melh on right.
J. Khattab77Hill on either side of track.
J. Kufri310Two wells on track, one in use, recentlyrepaired by Government.
J. Birget El Merafib1121Water about 55 feet from surface; norope, so could not taste it. Six miles from left of track.
Open desert.
Kaser El Fokani425One old well called Atesh, closed for along time. Well-marked track.
Khor Kaser126On right of track, 400 yards wide. Afterthis the road runs in khor for 10 miles, as far as El Magari.
El Magari10⅔36⅔
J. Nesub El Arda844⅔Range of hills 1½ miles from right oftrack. After this the hills gradually close in to right oftrack.
3⅓48Track passes over low hills. Nesub ElArda 80 feet high. After ½ mile another small detached hill,similar to El Magari, and low hills on right, 400 yards fromtrack.
Wadi Maleiga250Good grazing for camels.
Abu Sayal454Good water in small khor about 600 yardsfrom right of track can be got for a distance of 150 yards bydigging 8 feet to 10 feet from surface. One small green tree andusher bushes mark spot. Water at present plentiful, but guidesstate that in dry season supply becomes small. No people here.
J. Nesub El Gelud1⅓55⅓Range of hills 1,500 yards on right oftrack. No more hills on left.
Wadi Gelud1⅔57One well reported under hill, supplysmall in dry season, about 3 miles from right of track. Khor 500yards wide. Good grazing for camels.
Ereishat5⅔62⅔Dry grass and a few bushes. In Gordon’stime there was a large shelter here for travellers andmerchants.
J. Nesub El Shabra——Three miles from right of track. Acontinuous range of low hills on right. Open country on left.
J. Abu Sideir2⅔65⅓Two miles from right of track. From herea track to El Boreiga winds off ½ mile right.
Khor Abu Sideir3⅓66⅔1,000 yards wide; good grazing forcamels. Range of black hills 3 miles from right of track. After 1⅓miles track crosses another piece of Khor Abu Sideir and two othersmall khors, the hills on right being then 6 miles off; on leftflat open country.
Wadi Umanagil672⅔After this low rangeof hills 600 yards from and parallel to track, a few flocks grazinghere in Khor Boreiga. Good water in khor to be obtained for adistance by digging 10 feet from surface.
Abu Heglig (water)274⅔
Khor 600 yards to 800 yards wide; goodgrazing; six wells in use here.
276⅔Track passes through gap in spur runningfrom two hills called Um Kheirit and El Wabri, 2 miles from rightof track. J. El Minget (perhaps 30 miles distant) visible on left;salt is obtained from this mountain.
Khor Wabri1⅓80Hills 4 miles from right of track. Waterin khor like a canal, 4 yards broad, and 4 feet 6 inches in depth.After this open desert; rain marks; no track.
2⅓82⅓Small low sand hills on either side ofthe track. Going a little heavy for first time since leavingDebba.
Wadi Abu Hashim587⅓Broad khor; some grass and bushes; goodgoing; open desert on both sides.
Dondib El Gedi188⅓Old halting place, a few bushes on eitherside of track. After heavy rains Arabs used to sow dura here.
Wadi Drais1⅔90Low hill 1½ miles long, 1 mile from leftof track; well reported by guide under hill, spot marked by bigtree; well not in use. This well is in Wadi Abu Usher.
Wadi Abu Usher2⅓92⅓Broad khor, dry grass and usher bushes.J. Abu Usher 1 mile from right of track; long black hill.
Khor Derail2⅔95Small khor; black rocks and hills onright of track.
Abu Inderab297One well in khor in a sort of cave 15feet deep; water plentiful, very clear and sweet. Men have todescend into the cave to get water, which is 2½, feet deep; guidereports water plentiful here at all times of the year. Sides ofcave hard sandy clay; diameter of cave at surface 6 feet, openingout as you go down. Khor 120 yards wide. Usher bushes and somegrazing for camels. Range of black hills 200 feet to 300 feet high,2½ miles from track on right and remaining parallel with it.
Khor El Kelab (Warrania)3½100½Broad khor, a lot of usher bushes, nearlyall dying. J. El Kelab 3 miles from right of track, with low rangeof black hills between track and it. Track in khor for 1⅓miles.
Khor El Kelab (Godamia)1⅓101⅚Joins Khor El Kelab (Warrania), and thetwo khors then run east on left of track. Jebel El Kelab acontinuous range 4 miles long, and 2 miles to 3 miles from right oftrack.
3⅔105½Beginning of J. Gumr 1 mile from right oftrack. Going sandy and good; tufts of dry grass.
Wadi Gumr (water)2⅔108⅙To east of track, in khor, good place forsowing dura after heavy rains. Excellent grazing about 3 miles westof track; water very near surface and can always be got in khor bydigging. A few Arabs here. Range of hills, J. Gumr, 1½ miles fromright of track.
J. Maagil Gumr3111⅙One thousand yards from left of track,with low spur running down to track, and another running parallelwith road for 1½ miles.
1112⅙Low hill on right, close to track, ½ milelong.
⅔112⅚Continuous range of hills on right 3miles off. A gap opposite here, 300 yards long, called Feg Gumr. J.Wad El Melih begins after Feg Wadi Gumr. Wadi Gumr runs under rangeparallel to it.
Um Aragib1⅓114⅙On left of track; bushes, black stones;good going on ten to twelve camel tracks. Hill on right 5 milesdistant.
J. Maagil Wad El Melih3⅓117½Small hill 300 yards from right of track,with prominent point 60 feet high.
Khor Wad El Melih1½119Many dead usher bushes.
1½120½On right, range of hills, after being 10miles distant, comes in to within ½ mile of track, and from hereruns parallel with it.
2122½End of J. Wad El Melih 1½ miles fromright of track, after this J. El Shab.
Khor El Shab3⅓125⅚El Shab 2½ miles from right of track;good going.
Khor Abu Usher3128⅚Small khor; dying osier bushes, somegrazing. Hills on right, 6 miles off. Khor on right winding from S.crosses track here.
Well on right of road, no water, only inrainy season.
Khor Abuera4132⅚Running from J. Abuera about 10 miles onright, khor finishes here, none on left of track. Excellent going,well marked track, rain marks, flat open country, nothing insight.
Khor Bohat7⅔140½Small khor, some bushes. J. Bohat 10miles on right.
Gedemtina3143½Old halting place. A few bushes, hard,sandy.
4⅓147⅚Wadi Gabra on left, about 3 miles off;this khor stretches to Korti.
Wadi Medeisis1⅔149½From hill on right joins Wadi Gabra, 2miles from left of track.
Gabra Wells6⅓155⅚Four wells, water always plentiful, verysweet and clear, 55 feet from surface; many flocks and some cowswater here; wells in open space in middle of thick trees, withzeriba for flocks.
Before arriving at wells track for 4miles through trees, mostly sunt, and nearly all dying; plenty ofdry wood. Dervish zeriba S. of wells with Yunis’ house in centreand tukls of the Jehadia round it.
2157⅚Up to here marked track, after this onlyvisible at places owing to sand covering footprints on hard ground;uneven, but going good; bushes and grass everywhere; good grazing;gazelle.
Gerguf3160⅚
Goz Abu Dluet5⅓166⅙Excellent dry grass and bushes for camelgrazing.
El Hanakat4170⅙Low spur on either side of track, whichis more distinct here and in a sort of khor 80 yards wide full ofgreen bushes.
El Shegeig2⅔172⅚About 1 mile on left of track; thicktrees.
Id Anal4⅓177⅙Sandy; trees and grass; ground slightlyundulating.
Khor Id Anal3⅓180½Very narrow khor; rain marks; sandygoing.
Gala Fashfos8⅓188⅚Main peak of Omdurman mountain in sight(Abu Leidat).
2190⅚Small round hill (El Gesi) on left, 3miles off.
El Hafir1⅓192⅙J. El Magrun on left.
El Auti7⅓199½J. Abu Leidat on left.
El Adara1200½
1201½Track goes between Merkhiat Hills.
J. Nesub El Merkhiat1202½One isolated hill 1,000 yards from leftof track.
Merkhiat Hills on right.
1⅓204⅙Track passes through gap in Nesub ElMerkhiat, one hill on left close to path, on right hills come downclose to track.
2⅔206⅚Rifle ranges 1,200 yards on right. Goingsandy, heavier than during any other part of route.
Omdurman1⅔208½Beginning of houses.

Note.—There are only four places on this road which can be relied on for water at all times of the year, viz., Wabri, Abu Inderab, Gumr, and Gabra.

111.—DEBBA to OMDURMAN, viâ ELAI.

Compiled from Various Sources, April, 1903.

N.B. This is not the direct road, but water is obtainable more frequently. Distances only roughly approximate.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Debba——
Um Belila3535Water plentiful. Three wells, 12 feetdeep (James, 1902).
El Amri4378Water plentiful (native informationonly).
Abu Tawagia25103One well, 8 feet deep; good water (James,1902).
Elai18121Water, scarce in dry season, from twostone-lined wells (Currie, 1903). From here, shortest way is toGambar, but road stony and bad, and merchants generally go to Gumr(25 miles). Vide [Route 110.]
Gambar37158Wells, water (?) (native informationonly).
Gabra24182Water plentiful, from many wells.
Omdurman56238

112.—AMBUGOL or KORTI to METEMMA.

From Reports by Mr. Fowler, 1871, and numerous Officers of the Nile Expedition, 1885.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Ambugol——Possesses abundant indications, in theremains of an ancient masonry pier and in the considerable ruins inthe town, of having been formerly of much greater importance. Itwas selected as the point at which the projected Sudan railwayshould leave the Nile, and strike across the Bayuda Desert.
Korti—4From Ambugol the caravan route followsthe bank of the river for a few miles to Korti, and then branchesoff into the desert in a westerly direction.
After about 25 miles, it strikes the WadiAbu Gir and continues along it for many miles. Mr. Fowler statesthat the water is to be procured by sinking wells along the courseof this wadi, and that its bed for its entire length is filled withall the vegetation of the Bayuda Desert—shrubs and grass, which areinvaluable both as fuel, and as food for flocks.
Water reservoirs, in tins, wereestablished in March, 1885, at hills 12 and 30 miles respectivelyfrom Korti, as the wells at Hambok and Haweiyat showed signs ofgiving out.
Hambok4751Wells.
El Haweiyat859Wells. Yielding in February, 1885, 310gallons daily, but decreasing. Three wells, 6 feet deep, open inFebruary, 1897.
Near the mountain of El Mesalima,situated a little to the right of the track, there is an abundanceof small timber.
In December, 1871, and January, 1872,water in pools was found in many of the ravines issuing from theJebel Gilif range. The plain S. of this range has a good deal ofscrub upon it, and is said to be flooded occasionaly during therains to a depth of 3 feet to 4 feet.
Miljik——Five miles E.S.E. of Haweiyat and 1½miles from the track; reported to have a good supply of rainwaterlike Jakdul. Found to be dry, February, 1885.
Abu Alik——Four miles E.S.E. of Miljik. Good supplyof water in wells 6 to 8 feet deep. Too far from track forpractical use.
Zobrik El Kelb (Miglig)1473A plainly defined hill of curious shape.One mile N. of it are the wells of Miglig (Megaga, or El Kelb).Natural reservoirs of rainwater. These are two pools situated up anarrow ravine. The lowest, containing 5,000 gallons, is fit forcamels and horses. The upper pool, 100 yards beyond, contains over100,000 gallons of pure clear water. Tanks full, February, 1897,but water unclean; tastes stagnant.
These estimates (14th February, 1885, byColonel Todd, R.E.) were taken when the upper pool was 4 feet, andthe lower 7 feet, below its high water level.
Abu Halfa1790The wells of Abu Halfa, situated about 3½miles N. of the camel track, consist of holes made in dry riverbed. They vary in depth from 5 feet to 10 feet, and in diameterfrom 3 feet to 4 feet.
Some distance further up the Wadi AbuHalfa there is a large pool surrounded by dom palms, which is saidnever to be dry. Close by this pool is a conical black hill,surmounted by a natural breastwork; excellent landmark.
Water is to be found nearly everywhere inthis wadi, a foot or two below the surface, and is visible inseveral places at the foot of rocks.
To a breadth of ½ mile on each side ofriver bed, acacia trees abound, and there is beautiful tabas grass;this, with the trees, forms the principal food of the flocks andherds—goats, camels, and cattle—belonging to the desert Arabs.
For about 6 miles after leaving AbuHalfa, the ground falls slightly, about half this distance beingover a sandy desert, with sandstone rocks cropping up allround.
The ground then rises gently, and enterscountry wooded thickly with acacia, and covered with coarsegrass.
On the W. stand isolated rocks ofsandstone, and on the E. is seen the extension of the range fromAbu Halfa, which vanishes with an abrupt turn eastward.
Jakdul10100The wells of Jakdul, situated in one ofthe torrent gorges of Jebel Gilif, about 3 miles from the cameltrack, consist of three large water-worn cavities, each at adifferent level, and shut in by precipitous cliffs. The lowest ofthe pools forms an irregular oval in plan, about 120 feet long by60 feet broad, and for three-fourths of its length it is enclosedbetween perpendicular rocks. Whether any labour has been expendedin making these excavations it is impossible to say, but it isevident that the cavities have been mainly produced by the torrentsrushing through a small passage about 8 feet above the highestwater level, and thus wearing away the softer portions of the rockto a considerable depth below the ground level.
These reservoirs contain always sufficientwater for two years’ supply of the existing demand, and are neverdry. The lowest well is daily visited by large numbers of animals,and the water is consequently unfit for any other use. The secondpool, about 10 feet above the first one, lies in the bottom of analmost inaccessible channel, the sides of the gorge rising in someplaces nearly perpendicularly to a height of about 80 feet from thewater.
The approximate length of this pool is200 feet, and its width is 40 feet. The quality of the water isexcellent, and from this and the upper pool the skins used to carrydrinking water are filled, a cord and bucket being employed toraise the water. The third pool is about 5 feet higher than thesecond, and lies in a direction at right angles to it. Its size isabout 80 feet by 15 feet.
A very tortuous and contracted channel,about 20 feet long, and 3 feet wide at the bottom, forms theconnection between the second and the lowest pool. Above this thegorge widens out, and by the construction of a dam, a finereservoir and ample water supply might be obtained.
These wells, forming the chief watersupply on the Korti—Metemma route, were found ample for therequirements of the Desert Column, 2nd January to 15th March, 1885,but would not have lasted another fortnight.
About 1 mile up the ravine, above thewells, are two more reservoirs, each holding (January, 1885) aboutthe same as the middle Jakdul reservoir. They were not used in1885. Numerous gazelle.
After leaving Jakdul, the country for afew miles is entirely devoid of vegetation, but further on it isfor the most part covered with a sandy deposit, producing tabasgrass and acacia.
El Fura——Eight or nine miles east of the wells ofJakdul, and some miles from the caravan track, are the wells ElFura. They consist of a number of holes, 3 or 4 feet in diameter,and a few feet in depth, and are sunk in the usual manner in thechannel of a large river bed—Fura. They are rudely excavated andare unlined, their falling in, therefore, is a matter of frequentoccurrence, and these accidents are repaired by the excavation ofnew holes. A basin with puddled sides is formed on the surface forthe use of animals. During the rainy season the holes are rapidlyfilled with deposit, and they have then to be re-made. On the otherhand, in the dry season, the wells are gradually deepened, as thewater level falls through use, absorption, and evaporation. Cattle,sheep, and goats are driven here in large numbers. It is the customduring the hot season to water the sheep and goats once every fourdays, and the cattle every other day. In the winter season they aredriven to the wells every sixth and fourth day respectively. Thewater at these wells is good, and the supply generally plentiful.Only once within the 30 years preceding 1872[34]had they dried up, and then only after a continued drought of twoyears.
These wells, being off the track, werenot used by the Desert Column, 1885.
Before reaching Jebel-el-Nus, a tractwhere much drift sand prevails is reached. This drift sand usuallytravels from the E. to the W., under the influence of theprevailing winds, in the form of low mounds, in plan somewhat of acrescent form, with the convex side turned towards the wind. Thisslope of the mound is about 6 in 1, up which the sand constantlytravels to the summit of the ridge, and then rolls down thesheltered side where the slope is 1 in 1, every sandhill having inwindy weather a slow but constantly progressive action. As alltraces of the beaten camel tracks are often obliterated, theJebel-el-Nus is an invaluable landmark. Bad, soft going here.
Jebel el-Nus22122It is a remarkable conical rock ofsandstone, and stands out prominently in the landscape.
After this a valley is approached inwhich the drift sand becomes heavier, but where trees and grassgrow abundantly.
On either side, however, the aspect of theground is most forbidding, the rocks surrounding the valley, seenfrom an elevation, having the appearance of a troubled stormysea.
The drift sand continues in the valleyonly for a distance of about 3 miles.
Jebel-el-Sergein10132After crossing a grass-grown wady thatpartially drains a range of hills on the W., Jebel-el-Sergein (orSaddle Hill), another remarkable desert beacon, is passed.
The valley round Jebel-el-Sergein isfertile and contains much grass, and many groups of trees. As itaffords good pasturage for camels, it is always selected for aresting-place when the traveller cannot reach the nearestwells.
Beyond this another wadi is crossed. Itis about a mile in width, and well covered with trees andgrass.
For the next 12 or 13 miles the routeruns through the district of Ummat Handal.
The first part of it is covered with muchbroken sandstone and loose rock. This is followed for 3 or 4 milesby a stretch of sand, which further on gives way to a moreagreeable country in which grass and trees are plentiful.
15½147½The scene of the battle (17th January’85) was 2½ miles further on, ½ mile S. of the usual track.
Abu Klea (Abu Tleh)4½152Some more wadis and low intervening hillsare crossed till the wells of Abu Tleh are reached.
These wells are sunk in the same manneras those of El Fura, but, as the soil does not stand so well, theyare constantly falling in, and have, therefore, very frequently tobe reconstructed. The water is excellent for drinking, and thesupply is good, having failed only once within the 30 yearspreceding 1872. These wells are directly on the camel track toMetemma and are constantly visited by caravans. They also form afavourite watering place for the flocks and herds of theArabs.
The route now enters a valley with grassand trees, and after following it for some distance across a plaincovered with sand and black boulders, succeeded by a morefavourable district, capable of cultivation during the rains.
Shebakat16168A little further on occurs the well ofShebakat.
This well is also directly on the caravanroute. It is 12 feet in diameter and 50 feet in depth, excavatedthrough the sandstone rock to a bed of sandy shingle. It is situateon an extensive plain amongst thick scrub and coarse grass, and asthere is no water channel in its vicinity, the supply must beobtained from low-level springs. The water being brackish, it isunfit for drinking purposes, and it is thick and clouded. Thesupply is abundant and never failing in the driest seasons. Smallpuddled basins are formed, as at other wells, on the ground surfacefor the use of cattle.
An acacia forest, traversed by the DesertColumn on the night of 18th January, 1885, lies a mile or two S. ofthe ordinary track hereabouts.
The track to Metemma now leads over lightscrub and tussocky gravel; that to Abu Khru or Khrug and Gubat issimilar, but with less scrub.
The caravan route ends at Metemma, whichis situated near the W. bank of the Nile, and is separated from thedesert by a low line of hills.
Metemma8176A considerable tract of fertile land,about 1,200 yards broad, dividing the town from the river, isoccasionally inundated during the season of the floods.
Metemma contained (1885) about 3,000inhabitants, and was in 1897 and 1898 the headquarters of Mahmudand his men. It now (1903) contains 2,500 inhabitants who arechiefly women.
This town in 1885 consisted of mud houseswith straw roofs, with one or two earthworks W. of the town; two ormore mosques. Bombardment with small 7-lb. guns produced no effecton the houses, the shells passing through without damaging them.Setting roofs on fire of no use, as it did not destroy the houses.It is now (1903) only just beginning to recover from the effects ofMahmud’s occupation and massacre.
Summary of WaterSupply.
Ambukol——On the Nile.
Korti——On the Nile.
Hambok47—Wells.
El Haweiyat859Wells.
Magaga1473Two good reservoirs 1 mile N. oftrack.
Abu Halfa1790Wells, 3½ miles from the cameltrack.
Jakdul10100Three miles N. of the caravan track.Abundant supply of water good for a large force.
El Fura——About 8 or 9 miles from Jakdul, and somemiles from the caravan track. Wells—water good, supply generallyplentiful.
Abu Tleh52152Wells—water excellent, supply fairlyplentiful.
Shebakat16168One large well. Supply abundant and neverfailing, but the water is brackish, and only fit for animals.
Metemma8176On the Nile.
Shendi——On the Nile 3 miles below Metemma.

113.—KORTI to BAYUDA and SEDEIRI.

By Captain V. Bunbury and Viscount Sudley, March, 1897.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Korti——Road indifferent going for infantry;suitable for cavalry.
Um Tub3535One permanent well here, 10 feet indiameter, sides faced with stone. Water, 125 feet below groundlevel, good; constant supply. Fourteen hods at the well’s mouth ingood order. Country open, good grazing. Well in the middle of agravelly rise, easy for defence. It took 5 hours to water 115camels.
For the first 3½ hours (10 miles) afterleaving this the route is very bad going, especially for cavalry,and lies along a broken wadi and many stony bits. Ground on eitherside rocky, hilly; efficient scouting impossible. After the brokenground the route lies over open country, and is good forcavalry.
Um Sunt Bayuda3065The wells here are in a khor which runsfrom S. to N. at this point. Only two wells were open to any depth(about 10 feet), but were quite dry. Dug in both of them, but hadto desist in one after a short time, as it was too narrow for a manto work in. In the other, reached water after 3 hours’ digging at adepth of 23 feet below the ground level. Water flowed freely, andwas good.
The wells are commanded from E. and W. byhigh ground immediately above the river bed, and from N. and S. byhills from 100 to 150 feet high at a distance of 200 yards, andfrom N.E. by a range of hills about 800 feet high at a distance of1 mile.
Ten days later this well was revisitedand found to be dry.
The next 4 miles are through the WadiBayuda defile. Road very bad here; flanked on either side by rockyhills, which appear to run far inland on both flanks. All scoutingon flanks impossible. After heavy rains a flood of 9 feet deep issaid to pour northwards through this defile.
Two miles further on lies
Monasieb671or Um-el-Nasaib. Two wide-mouthed wells;water in one of them 8 feet down. A few hods. Trees and bushesgrowing close around; unsuitable place for watering beasts, andunfavourable for defence.
Road good to
Um Sedeiri374Many wells here, mostly unused. Threewide-mouthed wells and one narrow well, newly opened in the sand,had water in them about 6 feet below ground level. The water in theformer was unfit for human consumption, but the camels drank itfreely; the water in the latter was good. After clearing away someof the mud and slime from the large wells water came fairly freely.Also obtained a constant supply of very good clear water by digging2 feet in one of the unused wells; the hods at these wells are notnumerous, and require repairing. I consider that any amount ofwater can be obtained here by a little digging; it is of goodquality, and appears to be about 6 feet below ground level. I wasinformed that there is water here all the year round.
A great quantity of long coarse grassgrows round the wells and on each side of the river bed. The wellsare commanded from N. to S.E. by high ground from 60 to 30 feethigh, at distances of 500 to 150 yards from N. to S.E.; also fromW. by ground about 30 feet high, at distances from 80 to 100 yardsfrom S. to N. Some large trees and the long grass above-mentionedwould afford cover near to the wells.
The road back to Um Tub (35 miles) isgood and open, with the exception of the 10 miles mentionedabove.
The direct road Um Sedeiri to Korti (70miles) is good going, but no water.

114.—MEROWE to JAKDUL.

By Major Hon. M. G. Talbot, August, 1898.

General Remarks.Except for patches of sand, heavy for infantry and horses, the road is good throughout, with the exception of the Magaga defile. Though the road frequently changes from one bank to the other of the Khor Abu Dom, up whose valley it generally proceeds till it crosses the watershed into the Magaga basin, none of the crossings present any difficulty; but there is always the danger in the summer months of a spate caused by rain near the head.

Firewood and camel grazing are plentiful throughout, but there is practically no grass for horses.

As far as, and including, Kalas the road may be considered as having been traversed at the driest time of year.

N.B.—Party consisted of 1 Squadron (Cavalry), and 1 Company (Camel Corps).

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Merowe——
Ghazali8¼8¼General direction from Merowe, a littleS. of E. No definite track. Troops can take shortest line acrossopen plain, dotted with bushes and tabas grass. At 4 miles the KhorAbu Dom, whose very sandy bed is 100 yards wide, is struck, and theright bank ascended. At 6 miles the low rocky hills close in toform a short, and very easy, defile; the hills soon recede andallow the valley to expand, and at 7¼ miles the first wellis reached, at the foot of a low hill on right bank. A mile furtheron is another well from which a small garden is supplied.There are one or two water holes in between. Water good,plentiful, and near surface. No good camping ground.
Hannek (Upper)22¼30½Road keeps up right bank of khor; Gerenhill at 3¾ miles marks site of well. At 5¾ miles road crosses toleft bank at Um Sayala wells, and after 4 miles of good going throughthickish scrub, Beida is reached. Both Geren and Um Sayala weresaid to have water, but were not visited. Beida well isabout 20 feet deep. After a few minutes clearing out, it supplied adrink for all the horses. Good shade. At 10¼ miles the road leavesthe main khor, and keeps up an affluent called Ab Jowalis, which itleaves by a very low and easy saddle at 14¼ miles, and aftercrossing the heads of many minor tributaries eventually returns to,and crosses the main bed of, the Khor Abu Dom at 20¼ miles. At ¼ to½ mile below the point of crossing is the Lower Hannekwell, which was not visited. After crossing, the track keepsup the right bank to Hannek (Upper) well at 22¼ miles. Thetwo wells here required clearing out, and then gave sufficientwater of rather indifferent quality. Plenty of shade.
Kalas32½63The khor is crossed at ½ mile, and roadthen passes over an open plain, affording good going, until itstrikes the khor again at Um Jueiri well at 8½ miles.After this a few stony bits, and one or two stony ridges arecrossed, with which exceptions road is excellent to well at ElTawila at 14½ miles. Water good; and well, after being alittle cleaned out, afforded a drink for all horses, and some ofthe camels. Road continues good, and follows left bank of khor,except for a few hundred yards at 18½ miles, when the hills closein and drive it into the bed of the khor, under J. Lebarug. At 23½miles it crosses a considerable branch of the khor, and at 26½ itcrosses a low rocky saddle, and returns to basin of main khor AbuDom, in bed of which at 28 miles is situated the well of ElTueina, lying about ⅓ mile to left of direct road to Kalas.From here to Kalas, 32½ miles, the road keeps crossing bed of khor,60 to 100 yards wide, and the narrow basin is enclosed by lowirregular-shaped hills. Two lots of wells at Kalas, about300 yards apart. Water bad. Even after cleaning out, the horses andcamels were watered with great difficulty. Little shade.
Abu Halfa25½88½Road keeps up left bank over some stonyground, and crosses khor at 2 miles and recrosses at 2½. After 5more miles of good going on the whole, the very low and easy saddleforming the watershed is reached at 7½ miles, and on crossing itthe basin of the Wadi Magaga is entered. The road for the next 7miles is down a gradually widening, but always stony, defile, alongwhich it is preferable to lead horses almost the whole way. Thepath is mostly down the actual watercourse, which has all thecharacteristics of a mountain torrent. A dry water hole was passedat 10 miles, and some pools of water at 13½ miles. At 14½miles the road emerges from the stony bed and crosses a low saddleat 15 miles, from which the first view of the plains to the S. isobtained. At 15¾, another low saddle is crossed, and the track thendescends to the plain and keeps along the feet of the hills,crossing patches of stony ground alternating with flat khors,covered with scattered bush and thick tabas grass, to 25 miles,when it turns to left up Wadi Abu Halfa, and strikes the wells at26 miles, close to the junction of a tributary with the main khor,and at the foot of a low—but conspicuous—rocky hillock.[35]There is a large pool, said never to get dry, about ½ mileup the khor. Good camping ground. Some shade. Water plentiful.
Jakdul10½99Road crosses khor at once, and keepsstraight along foot of higher hills, leaving some very low ones onits right. At 8 miles track turns to left up Wadi Jakdul, andreaches lower pool at 10½ miles.
The former descriptions of Jakdul stillhold good, so it need not be described here. Vide [Route 112.]

115.—MEROWE to BERBER, viâ SANI.

By Captain N. M. Smyth (1897) and Colonel Friend (1902).

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Merowe——
El Dughayet1414On left bank of Nile. Shaigia Arabs. Mudhuts, and palms to shade one battalion in vicinity. Thorn bush andgrazing for 1,000 camels.
A well-defined but narrow track, passableonly in single or double file, leads across some rocky hills about150 feet above level of High Nile, till at 6 miles it strikes theKhor Shingawi, which is broad and sandy, with a few scatteredbushes.
Jebel El Dega822Is passed on the right of the road. From6 to 8 miles the ground is firm, and admits usually of marchingcamels four abreast.
El Nus830El Nus is merely the name of a localitywhere the track crosses a spur from the north, whence Jebel ElGhanam is visible 10 miles north and Jebel El Khullal 5 milessouth; no shade. Drainage, after Jebel El Dega crossed, flowssouth-west.
The track generally continues good,mostly over hard shingle or firm sand. In many places severalparallel tracks.
Jebel El Mgarfur (?)1040A rounded hill about 100 feet high, ispassed on the right. This is the first place where shade is to begot from thorn bushes. There is enough for about one battalion ifscattered over about 2 square miles.
Um Geren545The well-known Arab camping ground, UmGeren, marked by a tall tree, is left ½ mile to the north of trackin the wooded Khor Abu Siba.
El Kua1½46½The well El Kua is passed ½ mile north oftrack in the Khor Abu Siba. This well is 25 feet deep, and, thoughliable to run dry in winter, generally contains about 3 feet ofwater from July to September.
El Bar1½48A similar well, El Bar, is passed ½ mileto the north of track in the Khor Abu Siba, which all along here iswell wooded with dom palms, sunt trees and bushes for camelgrazing. Both these wells belong to the Hawawir sub-tribe ofMonasir.
Sani250Sani is a pool of rain-water with rock,sand, and shingle banks. It is said that the water is perennial,and if drunk dry, it refills to three-quarters former depth; morethan 6 feet deep in centre. Water good; contained at time of visitabout 26,000 gallons. Thirty animals can drink at once; if bucketsare used 60 could drink. Sagias and cultivation.
Abu Koreit1464Many old wells, but disused, and watersupply very small.
Kurbai62126Water, but supply bad.
Abu Haraz19145Well; good water.
Berber4149

116.—SANI to EL ZUMA (NILE) viâ JURA.

By Captain St. G. Henry, August, 1897.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Sani Pool——Going good; in some places over rough,tussocky grass, but generally over firm sand. Features of countryvery indefinite, and drainage lines hard to trace; there is,however, no doubt that they all cross the track from right toleft.
J. Sergein77From 6 to 8 miles thetrack crosses some rocky undulating ground. At 7 miles, J Sergein,or Sargit, is left to the S., and the road passes N. of J. ElHueish, an isolated rocky hill with a patch of yellow sand halfwayup.
J. El Hueish411
2132A branch of Wadi Argu or Argubi is nowcrossed. From this point J. Gormuli lay due N., and J. Ibnali (themass of hills S. of Jura Well), lay due E.
1547At 3 miles from Jura the track joins, ina branch of the Wadi Argu, the track from Kirbekan. At this pointthe direction of Sani bears 250 degrees magnetic (Tudway). For thenext 3 miles the track winds in a south-easterly direction throughlow undulating hills, between the mass of the Jura range (J.Ibnali) on the right, and some sharp-pointed hills of considerableheight on the left.
Jura350The well at Jura is situated in a smallrocky plain surrounded by hills N. of eastern end of J. Ibnali. Ithas been cut out of the solid rock and is about 2 feet in diameter.The water was about 6 feet below the surface; it is good and sweet,and tastes like rain-water. One hundred camels were watered from itwithout emptying it. It is said never to dry up. There wereformerly six other wells, equally good, close by, of which themarks are still visible. The natives say they only want cleaningout. Water can sometimes be got by scraping at the mouth of thekhor about 110 yards distant. Near the well stands the ruin of ahouse, built at the time it was proposed to take the telegraph lineto Berber by this route.
It is a bad and confined camping ground,with very little shade, though there are a few dom palms and thornbushes along the khor. Heat and dust very great.
A flood is said to come down the khoronce almost every year. The drainage appears to go to WadiArgu.
El Zuma3585On left bank Nile, opposite El Shereik.Government Rest House and ferry. There is also Rest House atShereik.

117.—JURA to KIRBEKAN (about 1 mile S.W. of Site of Battle).

By Major Tudway and Captain St. G. Henry, August, 1897.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Jura——
Wadi Argu33For the first 3 miles the track windsthrough low hills between main mass (J. Ibnali) and the two pointedhills to N. At 3 miles it strikes a branch of the Wadi Argu orArgubi. Here the Sani track branches off at a bearing of 250degrees magnetic, and the general direction of Kirbekan is 305degrees magnetic. The track continues in a north-westerly directionover undulating ground, draining from right to left to the WadiArgu, passing a low hill called J. Barga, and striking into a mainbranch of the Wadi Argu, along which the road runs over anexcellent track with good grazing and plenty of trees.
3033At about 33 miles out from Jura, J.Gormuli, which is visible nearly the whole way, lay due N.
As far as the 45th mile (Henry) the routecontinues to follow the Wadi Argu, when it turns up a khor to theleft, and after some 11 miles of a narrow, rocky pathway, descendsto the river S.W. of J. Musa, the hill on which Kirbekan Battle wasfought.
Kirbekan2154The Wadi Argu joins the Nile at Kirbekanvillage. For the last 15 miles of its course the trees andvegetation increase, and from the number of dom palms it isprobable that water would be found near the surface. There isusually water in a rain pool, called El Sihani, 10 or 12 miles fromthe river.

118.—OMDURMAN to GABRA.

By Colonel Hon. M. G. Talbot, R.E., November, 1903.

General remarks.The only obstacles to taking a bee line for Gabra are the Abu Meru or Merkhait hills, which have to be skirted either on the N. or on the S., and the Goz Abu Delua which has to be crossed. The latter is a belt of undulating ground, covered lightly with sand in some places, and perhaps heavily in others, running generally in N.N.E. by S.S.W. direction and probably varying in width. The best place to cross it is at the Hanakat El Goz, where a khor cuts its way through it. This may be looked on as an obligatory point, and it is here and round the northern and southern sides of the Merkhiat hills only that one sees signs of a definite path until within a few miles of the wells. After rain, water is said to stand in a place called Shegeig or Mushgeig near the Goz, otherwise there is no water on the road. After passing the Merkhait hills firewood abounds and grass was plentiful at the time of this journey. Trees are chiefly “samr” with a few “kittr,” “heglig,” and other bushes. There is no “hashab” as stated on Khartoum Sheet. A great deal of spear grass is met with, and the guide informed me that, but for his skilful leading, I should have met much more.

Owing to the absence of any track and the tussocky nature of the “tabas” grass, the going is not good, except in the neighbourhood of the Id Ennala.

The distances given in this route report are obtained by assuming the camels to have marched at about 2½ miles an hour, checked by measuring wheel; but the route taken was far from straight.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Omdurman——Left old steamerworkshops, turned N. at corner of Sur wall and, when clear ofhouses, made straight for Abu Meru hills; halted N. of them; alittle grass; no firewood. Distance from Khartoum Sheet.
Abu Meru8½8½
On clearing hills track disappeared.“Tabas” grass and “samr.”
Stony ridge1422½Crossed by stony ridge.
Crossed by another stony ridge.
Crossed Khor Um Muherib (?) said to flowinto Id Ennala; not a very apparent drainage line.
Id Ennala14¼36¾After passing one or two very minorkhors, crossed Id Ennala; much “tabas” and “spear” grass. Many“samr” and a few “heglig” and “kittr” trees. Good grazing. Groundrather broken in a very small way, but difficult for camels atnight.
Shegeig8¼45Passed a place on right called Shegeig orMushgeig, where water stands after rain, and crossed to furtherside of Goz Abu Delua which had long been visible on left, parallelto route we followed. About a mile wide. The Hanakat is about 40yards to 60 yards wide and full of “marakh” bushes. It is said theold Government tried to find water here, but failed. It is said tojoin the Shegeig, which is joined by the Id Ennala and falls intoNile at Wadi Bishara.
From up stream end of Hanak, Gabra is notvisible, but the guide pointed it out as on 300° magnetic.
The Hanakat seems to have but a smallbasin W. of Goz.
Continued over slightly undulating plainwith grass and scattered bushes.
Passed some dura cultivation on left.Seemed a poor crop.
Wadi Mogaddam1055Turned more to N.N.E.and dropped over low stony ridge into the valley of the WadiMogaddam. Well but not densely wooded. Marched on bearing 330°magnetic to wells.
Gabra wells3½58½
There are at least 15 wells of 60 to 70feet depth. They water a very large number of animals daily. Levelof water fluctuates with rain, after which the whole of the groundround the wells is said to be underwater. Remains of Dervish mudfort, circular, 12 yards diameter, loop-holed towards north, bearsabout 150° from wells, which are 400 yards distant; short sheltertrench E. of wells. No remains of zeriba.
Many Kababish with large flocks andherds.

119.—GABRA to KORTI.

By Colonel Hon. M. G. Talbot, December, 1903.

General remarks.Till within a few miles of Korti the Wadi Mogaddam was practically followed throughout. It seems not to be used at all as a caravan road, as there is no track and no caravans were met. At the same time it seems an easy road to Omdurman, and very straight as far as Gabra.

The country passed through is flat and uninteresting. No hills of any remarkable height were seen, the highest being to the W. and N.W. of Gabra.

None of those near the route exceed 200 feet to 250 feet, relative height.

The Wadi Mogaddam consists of a depression marked by a belt of trees or grass, without any water channel whatever. Evidently there is never any flow of water on the surface of the wadi.

The belt of trees varies in width and character. At Gabra it must be nearly ¾ mile wide, and thick though not dense. There are some good “sayal,” “heglig,” “tundub,” and “samr” trees; lower down the trees diminish in size, the “sayal” is rarely met, and with the exception of a little “arak” and “kurmet” there is hardly anything but “samr” to be seen, with “tundub” in places. From Gaerin “selem” begins to be seen, and soon it becomes the principal growth.

Below Um Harot no grass was seen except burnt-up “tabas,” but that must depend on the year. On the whole, grazing for camels was very fair, but practically none for horses.

The line taken presented no difficulties whatever in the way of rocks or gradients. From a camel point of view there is no heavy sand, but it is not recommended as a route for motor-cars.

No supplies to be obtained except sheep and milk. Firewood is plentiful everywhere. Water seemed good everywhere except at Um Harot, where it was a little salt. The wells are all about 120 to 140 feet deep, except at Gabra, where they were 60 feet to 70 feet.

A guide is indispensable. With a guide there is no difficulty in marching by moonlight.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Gabra——Left Gabra in a N.W. direction, and aftera few minutes emerged from the trees on to the edge of the gentlysloping plains, and turned north.
W. Um Deisis5½5½After two hours along the left edge ofWadi Mogaddam, the Wadi Um Deisis is crossed. It comes from GambarWells and forms the northern boundary of the Kababish in the WadiMogaddam. It is marked by some trees and 2 or 3 insignificant waterchannels, the only ones seen on the whole road.
Soon after a low sandy hill, with a treeon it, can just be made out in the distance and serves as directionpoint. It is passed at about 5 hours from Gabra, being left on theright.
Bir Hassanin10½16A little way further on Bir Hassanin,belonging to the Hassania, is passed. It is deeper than most, beingabout 144 feet.
Um Harot420From this on we kept well to the left ofthe wadi and made straight for Um Harot well, 120 feet deep,belonging to the Geriat.
It is situated on a bare bit of ground W.of the wadi and just where the Wadi Wohad joins it.
On the E. of the Mogaddam, which is herenarrow, is a low black elevation, called J. Deim Gibur.
Bir El Simira626Kept for some miles more or less in thecentre of the wadi, which is rather ill-defined; slight rises ofground occur at intervals on either bank. Reached Bir El Simiha,Geriat well, close under N.W. end of low black hill partiallycovered with sand.
Fanga Well531One and a-half hours further on, keepingto right of Mogaddam, passed a disused Geriat well called UmKhenoit, situated in a bare space that had once been zeribaed, and15 minutes further on reached Fanga well, Geriat.
Gaerin435Still keeping on right edge of Mogaddam,after another 1½ hours Gaerin wells are reached.
There are several wells, about 120 feetdeep, in a bare space of about half a square mile. Wood all round,including much “selem.” From this on very little grass wasseen.
Bir El Agami641Kept along right edge of wadi, and after1¼ hours crossed a wadi joining from E. Guide seemed to call itWadi Teneida, but it was difficult to catch. An hour further on thenearest point to Bir El Agami was passed. This is the northernGeriat well, and lies about a mile E. of route.
After ¾ of an hour, the junction of theWadi Melh is passed on the left.
Bir Eminalla1051And 3 hours further on the first Hawawirwell, Bir Eminalla, is reached.
From here the wadi begins to be more orless restricted by rising ground on either side which does not openout till within an hour of Um Rumeila.
Um Rumeila12½63½This well is situated on a bare stonypatch just where the Wadi Gumr joins the Mogaddam. Most of thelatter wadi keeps to the E. of it. From this point the Gumr hills,which have been visible for some time, are at their nearest andappear not more than 20 or 25 miles off. The plain, up to the sandyfoothills, appears gently sloping and bare. The hills have theappearance of a long gravelly ridge of very uniform and no greatheight, but it is unlikely that they are of gravel. A few hills arevisible to the N.W., and a group of low hills called Mingit bears44° magnetic. Salt is obtained either from these hills or from thelow ridges in their vicinity.
Wadi Hamid1174½Kept down wadi, passing junction of W.Anderab at about 4 miles, to junction of Wadi Hamid with Mogaddam.There is some “selem” here; from this on it becomes more and morefrequent. The Wadi Hamid comes from a low hill called Sud Wad Hamidor some such name.
A few miles up it is joined by the W. AbuSedeir, in which there is a Hawawir well, which lies on the roadfrom Um Tub to Hanboti.
El Gab Abu Gambur1488½After an hour along the right edge ofwadi kept a little E. of N. over some broken ground for about twohours, and then returned to wadi and kept more or less up its rightedge till within the group of hills called El Gab Abu Gambur.
On the E. side of the southernmost ofthese hills, on the left bank, is an ancient enclosure said to havebeen built by the Anak. A semi-circular wall descending from thesteep part of the hill encloses a bit of gently sloping ground nearthe base. The distance between the two horns is about 120 yards,and the distance from the line joining the two ends to the lowestpoint is about 70 yards.
The wall is 8 feet or 9 feet thickthroughout, and 6 feet high at the lowest point of the hill,diminishing regularly to nothing as it ascends the hill.
There is a gate at the lowest point,which is fairly well built, while the rest of the wall has a verypeculiar appearance from all the stones being used upright on theirends. There is a legend that the Hawawir found a well there whenthey first came to the country.
About an hour beyond the W. Eishat comesin on the right. Kept generally on the right edge of the wadi, insome places keeping on the sloping ground above it; a good many lowhills W. of wadi. Crossed a low saddle on W. of wadi, which is heremuch less wooded, and in places hard to identify. A couple of milesbefore reaching Wadi Mahal junction, wadi passes between two hillson left and right bank, known as J. Abu Mara and Nasub El Abidrespectively.
Wadi Mahal19½108The Wadi Mahal joins on right bank. TheHawawir sometimes cultivate up this wadi.
The Mogaddam becomes more wooded again; alow saddle is crossed on right bank and then a straight line ismade for Um Tub. A great deal of “tundub,” some “selem,” and“samr.”
Um Tub8116Um Tub well, 120 feet deep, situated on avery slight rise in open plain on right edge of wadi. A track fromhere to Bayuda well. Bad going, 2 days for hamla.
J. El Hueimi18134From here low hills are constantly insight, each of which has a name, but none are conspicuous. Much“selem” and “samr,” very good going. The general direction is alittle W. of N. J. El Hueimi, a low hill, serves as a directionmark from some distance till it is reached.
Wadi Bayuda7141After which J. Abno, on the right bank ofthe Nile opposite Korti, becomes visible and is marched on. Acouple of miles further on the W. Megeirid joins the Mogaddam fromthe E. It looks as if it must flow out of the Wadi Bayuda, but itmay come from a very short way. After crossing it, kept over lowgravelly ridges, rather trying for camels’ feet, till the WadiBayuda was reached. The Wadi Bayuda appears to come from the hillsin the neighbourhood of Jakdul. It contains much “selem” and“samr,” and there was excellent grazing where it was crossed. Itflows out near Ambukol.
Korti9150From here it is best to keep a littlewest of the straight line to Korti and along the right edge of thewadi, in order to avoid more gravel ridges; after 1½ hours a trackis struck which leads past Korti village to the new Governmentoffices, just west of the old fort of 1897-98.

120.—KORTI to BAYUDA WELLS.

By Colonel Hon. M. G. Talbot, December, 1903.

General remarks.The road ascends generally the wadi by which the drainage of the Khor Bayuda descends. Though, possibly, people living on the river or at a distance call the whole wadi by the name of Bayuda, the local Arabs give each part of it a different name.

From the source to a little below the wells appears to be called Khor Bayuda. Up to this point it has a defined bed, in which water flows after rain. After passing J. Barkol it becomes Wadi Barkol, being now, and remaining, a broad wadi with no water channel. Soon after it becomes Wadi El Zein, till it is joined by the large Wadi Abu Gia, whose name it retains till near Korti. It is not quite clear whether it keeps it to the end or adopts the name Abu Gidean after its junction with that wadi.

The going is extremely good, there being no difficulty whatever.

Though a good deal used, there is no marked track till near the wells. The numerous small isolated hills act as efficient landmarks, so that everyone takes his own line.

Except for the short and uncertain period when green grass can be obtained, “selem” is the best camel grazing in all this country. It is found almost all the way in the wadi.

No supplies were obtainable of any sort on the road or at Bayuda wells in December, 1903.

A little shade is to be got in winter, but practically none in summer.

The distances were measured by wheel and adjusted to the astronomical positions. The hours are those actually marched by light hamla.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Korti village, west end——For the first 4 milesone of the tracks leading to Um Tub is followed, the route thenbends slightly to left, keeping up the right edge of the Wadi AbuGia, which has plenty of “selem” and other trees, till it crossesit at 13 miles.
1313
J. Shankawi3½16½It now keeps along the left side of thewadi, which has shrunk almost to nothing above the junction of theAbu Gia, passing J. Shankawi at 3½ miles, and returning to thewadi, where “selem” bushes reappear.
8½25The route keeps on straight near thesouthern of the two Sawileil hills, past J. El Zein, which is left1½ miles on the right, crosses the Wadi El Zein, and a very low andeasy saddle.
1439It descends just to the right of a verysmall hill called Nasb Um Handal, passes between J. Um Serre and J.Barkol, and crosses the fairly well wooded W. Rahaba, just N. ofthe little hill called Nasb El Rahaba.
847After 5 miles it meets the well markedtrack from Merowe, and at 6 miles it crosses a low ridge, anddescends into the valley of the wadi, here called Wadi Bayuda.
At 6½ miles it crosses the actual bed, some40 yards wide and 6 feet deep, and at 7 miles the wells arereached.
Bayuda wells754The wells are situated in the bed of thekhor and are filled up, whenever there is a spate. At the time ofthe visit, the Arabs were drawing water from a hole about a mileup; but they had begun to clean out the real wells.
There are said to be two other wells, ElNasaib and Um Sideiri, about 2½ hours up on the way toHanboti.
Just at the wells it is fairly open,though surrounded by low hills. Half a mile further up the khor isclosely shut in by hills covered with boulders.

121.—BAYUDA WELLS to TANGASI MARKET.

By Colonel Hon. M. G. Talbot, December, 1903.

General Remarks.From Bayuda wells to Wadi Abu Gia there is an extremely well marked track, profusely beaconed in the Arab manner. Further N. the stream of traffic divides according to the part of the Merowe district for which the traveller is bound or from which he starts.

The going is excellent throughout; no difficulties whatever.

The route appears to be of recent origin.

Formerly the produce of the Province used to make its way to Berber via Sani, and this new trade route, sometimes called the Hawashawi route, from a hill of that name, seems to have been established to meet the new conditions in the Sudan.

From Bayuda the route keeps straight on, crossing the Goz Abu Delua just before reaching Hanboti, and strikes the Nile near the Shabluka. Between Bayuda and Merowe there are considerable stretches without any camel grazing, and there is no shade of any value in hot weather. The distances were measured by wheel and adjusted to the astronomical positions.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Bayuda Wells——On leaving the wells for the first milethe Korti track is followed. On issuing from the hills, the track,which is well marked, gradually separates from the Korti route,making for higher ground, and keeps on in a practically straightline, crossing the heads of some of the small wadis that join themain one from Bayuda, and passing over a number of infinitesimalsaddles that separate them.
There is nothing of interest along theroad.
J. Hawashawi2626A number of small hills, each too smallto show properly on the scale, but sometimes forming a mass ofconsiderable area, are passed; but the only one worth noticing isJ. Hawashawi, which is said to give a name to the route.
Wadi Abu Gia7½33½There is very little camel grazing on theroute generally, and after this none is met with till the Wadi AbuGia is reached, where there are some “selem” and other trees.
Birgat El Seleim942½The Wadi Abu Gia isthe route used by the Camel Corps in 1885, and is still known asSikkat El Ingliz. The country now becomes still more bare; thetussocks of burnt up “tabas” grass, that have been hitherto seenoccasionally, no longer appear, and with the exception of some“selem” bushes in the neighbourhood of Birgat El Seleim, a lowhill, no green thing is seen till the Wadi Kurei is reached in theneighbourhood of the Birgat Wadi Kurei, from the top of which thereis a good view.
Birgat Wadi Kurei1456½
Tangasi763½From here into Tangasi Market the route(there is no track) is over a low gravel ridge and then across alevel plain.

[34]It was in this year that the surveys for the railway were made.

[35]See [page 175.]

APPENDIX.

(Routes partly outside the Sudan.)

122.—THE ARBAÏN ROAD.

(Compiled by the Editor.)

The “forty days” road leads S.S.W. across the desert from Assiut, in Upper Egypt, viâ the oases of Kharga, Beris, Sheb, Selima, Lagia, and Bir El Sultan to El Fasher capital of Darfur. It was formerly in considerable use for bringing slave caravans, &c., from the Sudan, and is still used in parts to a limited extent by natron caravans, occasional smugglers, and others. It is, however, now practically deserted.

In the summer of 1884 a reconnaissance was made by Lt.-Col. Colvile and Lieut. Stuart-Wortley from Assiut to Lagia, in order to find out whether the forces of the Mahdi could penetrate into Egypt by this road. The result of the patrol was satisfactory, and demonstrated that, owing to the paucity of water on the road, it would be quite impossible for a force of any size to traverse it.

The total length of the Darb El Arbaïn, from Assiut to El Fasher, is certainly not less than one thousand (1,000) miles. To cover this stretch in forty days would appear to necessitate particularly excellent camels, but the following is the normal time taken, according to native report:—

Place.Marching Days.Rest Days.Total No. of Days.
Assiut———
El Kharga415
Beris1½12½
El Murra3—3
El Kassaba1½12½
Sheb112
Selima224
El Lagia415
Natron Wells, Bir Sultan516
J. Anka or Meidob7—7
El Fasher3—3
Total32840

A day’s journey in summer lasts from El Asr (two hours before sunset) till one hour after sunrise; and in winter from sunrise till three hours after sunset.

Description.

The only points south of Kharga which have been astronomically fixed in modern times are Kassaba and Sheb (Talbot, 1903), and therefore the distances between the main points given below must be considered more or less approximate. The road is hardly defined at all throughout its length, and variations occur at different points. A road also joins the Arbaïn from Mut (Dakhla Oasis) at Terfawi (five days).

On no account should an intending traveller move without reliable guides, who may usually be obtained, or heard of, at Assiut.

(a.)—ASSIUT, viâ KHARGA, to BERIS and MAKS.

(“Kharga Oasis: its topography and Geology,” by John Ball, 1899, Public Works Department, Cairo, pp. 20, 44-60, &c.; Captain Lyons, R.E., February, 1894, &c.)

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Assiut——Leave Assiut on the S., turn to W.,through cemeteries, and along the the foot of the scarp.
55Road winds uplimestone cliff 470 feet. A few miles over broken ground brings oneon to nearly level limestone desert, with no hindrance in anydirection. Road runs generally S. over flat limestone; nothing ofany interest till the road dips into the great hollow of theoasis.
8287
Ein Karam Mohammed13100First water at EinKaram. See book above-mentioned for maps and full description ofthe great Oasis of Kharga, which lies in a dip over 100 miles longand 20 miles wide, running N. and S. About 120 wells and 10villages or districts; population about 8,000; 4,500 feddans ofcultivated ground, and about 60,000 palm trees. The oasis includesthe villages of Bulak (third largest village), Beris (secondlargest village), attacked by Dervishes in 1893, and Maks (Bahariand Gibli). The road now strikes again S. into the desert.
Kharga26126
Bulak15141
Beris39180
Maks9189

(b.)—MAKS, viâ MURRA, KASSABA and SHEB, to SELIMA.

(Lieut.-Col. Colvile, July, 1884; Captain Lyons, February, 1894; Officers Egyptian Army, Spring of 1894, &c.)

Place.Miles.Hours(Inter-mediate).Description.
Inter-mediate.Total from Assiut.
H.M.
Maks, from Assiut—189—
Kasr Argi or Ein El Kasr2191035A small rocky mound, with a ruin; near itis a good spring. Another mound, with spring and ruin, also bearsthe same name.
Garid Abu Baian11202317A rocky granite hill, about 150 feethigh, on E. of road. The road, which up to this point has beenalong a broad, shallow valley, with a bed of firm gravel, nowenters for a few miles hills of very deep sand, across which thereis no track.
J. Wagif (J. Harif)26½228½90Meaning “stopping place.” A solitarymound of rock 80 feet high. It appears to have been used as asignal station, there being remains of a fire on the summit. Stoneroadmarks and several graves. One day trotting from here to eitherBeris or Bir Murr.
Jebel Mishersha (Um Shersha)8236½—Shersha = Xerxes. Ancient Persianoutpost, possibly water. Long, low cliff on E. of road. Smallhillocks 4 miles further on, close to road and opposite S. end ofShersha, are called Gara El Maghatia.
Jebel El Magazan11247½—Hillock on road where merchandise used tobe left.
El Garun11½259—Two little knolls; a road to S.W.branches off to Darfur, according to Arabs.
Three miles further on begins a lowlimestone plateau, which extends up to and beyond Bir Murra. Thislimestone is the only landmark for the wells, as no high hills arevisible near.
Bir Murra72661615Two large holes, each 3 to 4 feet deep.Plenty of water, rather salt, but camels will drink it. Jebel elMurra is a narrow, ridge-shaped hill, 80 feet high, overlooking thewells. Colvile says:—“It is a promontory 3 miles N. of the wells,and running out of the low range of hills on the E. of the road. Itis easily to be recognised by a conical rock, balanced on its apex,on the top of a small mound.”
Kassaba673332510A group of dom palms, water 7 feet down,bitter and nitrous. Approach from N. by a narrow gorge down thesandstone cliff (120 feet high), which bounds the wells also on theW.; E, and S. the ground is open.
From Kassaba a road leads in a S.E.direction over ridges for 25 miles to the wells of Nakhla, whencethe road continues for a further 79 miles to the Nile, oppositeHalfa.
(Nakhla)———Nakhla or Saafi, is so termed from a palmtree on a small, sandy, grass knoll which overlooks the wells.Surrounding this knoll is a narrow valley, about 80 yards broad, tothe E. and S. Throughout this valley water can be obtained bydigging at a depth of from 3½ to 5 feet. The water does not run invery rapidly, but the earth is so light that the well can be dugvery rapidly, filling to about 9 inches in six hours; water goodand abundant (February). In the S. there is rising ground with aslight command. To the E. the ground rises slightly, but is lowerthan the date palm hill. To the N.E. there is a lofty sand hill, ata distance from the date palm hill of over 1,200 yards.
Blockhouse, built 1894 (nowunoccupied).
(The Sheb District)———Kassaba forms the apex of the triangularSheb district, which holds numerous wells, the names of which areoften confused. The western side of the triangle is formed by arange of sandstone cliffs, running S.W., along the base of whichthe Arbaïn road continues from Kassaba to Sheb. The base of thetriangle is the road from Sheb to Nakhla, and the centre is an openplain.
Shebba[36] (or Abu Dom?)1534865A district coveredwith low sand hills, and studded with dom palms. Water is said tobe obtainable by digging in most parts of it; that at the N. end isbad. A well at the southern end gives a good and plentiful supply.There are three patches of camel grazing in the district, eachpatch being about sufficient for 400 camels for one day. From herea road branches off gradually to the S.W. to the wells of Terfawi(Id Koraim, or Abu Taraf), 8 miles on, lying in a broad valley,under the cliff above mentioned. Good water 3 feet below thesurface. Forty old palms and numerous smaller ones, and two dompalms, no grazing. This Terfawi road is often used as analternative branch of the Arbaïn road, and rejoins it further S.Terfawi to Beris is reckoned at five days. There appears to be adirect road from Terfawi to Lagia, five days over level groundcovered with stones.
Terfawi———
Sheb10358—A blockhouse was built here in 1894 toguard against raids by the Dervishes, and was attacked on Jan. 8,1895. Water slightly brackish, but plenty of it; a little grazing.Road from here N.W. to Terfawi, 5½ miles. Road E. to Nakhla, 40miles, contains wells or underground water at El Haad, 5, Sederi,5, Bir Suleiman, 13, and Bir Hasab el Gabu, 9 miles intermediate.From Sheb the roads lead S., over easy ground for the most part, tothe oasis of Selima.
Selima824402745Named after a legendary Amazon Princess(?). A small oasis, commanded on all sides by rocky hills, those onthe N. being considerably higher and steeper. The water, obtainedfrom numerous wells about 2 feet deep, is sufficient for a force of1,000 men. It has a strong sulphurous taste and smell. The oasis isuninhabited, but is occasionally visited by the neighbouring tribesfor the sake of the salt and dates which are found there. The saltlies in beds covered by 1 to 3 feet of sand, and has to be brokenout.
There are some 2,000 fruit-bearing datepalms, but these are at present choked in a thick undergrowth.Dates very good.
There is plenty of grazing.
From Selima a road leads in a S.E.direction for 80 miles to Sagiet El Abd, on the Nile. No water onthe way.
For further description of this oasis,vide Part I., Chap. IX., [pp. 202-3.]

(c.)—SELIMA to LAGIA.

(Lieut. Stuart Wortley, July, 1884; Captain H. Hodgson, 1901, 1903, &c.)

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total from Assiut.
Selima, from Assiut—440On leaving Selima the track, well definedby camel skeletons, goes in a westerly direction for 6 miles overhard sand, after which it turns S.W.; small conical hills to W. for30 miles. Occasional camel skeletons, but no track. Succession ofrocky ridges.
33473High conical hill to W. Extensive view.All hills crossed are steep on the N. side, and slope gradually tothe S. (This is reversed at Selima and Lagia.) Going rocky andbad.
J. Hadada and J. Hamadia24497Pass between these two hills, J. Hadadato the E. Low ranges of hills, running S.E. and N.W.
40537Descend into hard sandy plain, extendingfor 20 miles. Country then becomes very rocky and difficult forcamels; no track discernible. Range of sand hills to W. called J.Ruhilat.
J. Gabra, a round-topped hill, rising outof valley called Lagia, seen from a distance of 35 miles. Roaddescends by a gorge of deep sand into the valley 10 miles long and1 mile broad, running E. and W.
Lagia (Kebir)43580[37]Water about 4 miles from the gorge. Threewells filled with sand water, water has to be cleared, or freshwell opened, otherwise it gets bad. Water good in itself. Novegetation; water 6 feet below surface; country barren; petrifiedwood abundant. Several tracks cross here.
Captain Hodgson states:—
At Lagia Kebir, or Agar, are fiveor six pans of water, good and near the surface, springing fromsimilar soil to Lagia the Less, but not so abundant. The wells liein an open plain, no vegetation near except about six or ten smalltrees about 3½ miles to W., giving a little feeding for camels. Tothe N. the plain is shut in by a steep rocky ridge of hills, andthe road to Selima Wells lies across it. On reaching summit ofridge there is only a stretch of rock and stones to be seen. Arabsstate it is the road to Selima and there is no grazing.
In the event of not finding a water panopen, the water lies some 20 yards S. of a low clump of dateseedlings, the only ones in the valley. There are some black rocksin the plain, on the track from Bir Sultan, which lie 2,700 yards(by range-finder) from the abovementioned dates, and at an angle of228° from them.
(Lagia Amran)——Lagia the Less, lying 12½ miles E.S.E. ofLagia Kebir, also called Amran from the colour of the ground, liesin a plain about 5 miles wide, surrounded entirely by rocky hills;there are only two entrances through encircling hills that are easymarching. Water lies within a foot of the surface and is veryplentiful; ground consists of red clay with drifts of sand, theArabs say there was formerly no sand, and that during the last fewyears it is gradually covering the ground, probably owing to dryseasons.
(Lagia bil Hêt)——Some bushes half a mile from the water.At a distance of one day’s journey to the E. of Lagia there is saidto be a well, called Lagia bil Hêt, on account of a Roman wallbuilt close by (?) (Omar et Tunsi).
To the S. the road to Bir Sultan liesacross an open plain and is easy going. The tracks spreadconsiderably.
An oasis is reported to lie 4 days’journey in a S.W. direction, containing date trees, which isvisited at date harvest time by the Bedai tribe. The water is saidto be bad. Except for the above, the guides say they have noknowledge of any water to the W. of Lagia, and that there is noroad with a direction of N. and S. lying to the W. of Lagia. Theroad Lagia Kebir to Dongola is 166 miles in a S.E. direction: 7days’ march.

(d.) LAGIA, viâ BIR SULTAN, to EL FASHER.

Captain H. Hodgson, Browne, and Natives.

Very little is known of this, the southern half of the Arbaïn road, and no European (since Browne, 1793, who left no record of any value) seems ever to have traversed it south of Bir Sultan.

From Lagia to Bir Sultan is 5[38] days’ going over easy country.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total from Assiut.
Lagia—580On leaving Lagia the going is fair.
47627Low rocky mounds; dozens of emptyparaffin tins lying about; place where caravans leave store andforage. Easy going, hard sand.
35662Sand dunes to E. of track, continue for 5miles. Road slopes slightly down hill, direction 210°.
37699Large black stone 10 feet high byroadside, 18 inches wide and 9 inches thick. Landmark visible forlong way from N. Marching becomes difficult.
10709Low hill, distinctive landmark; blackrock with white gypsum top, with pile of black rocks on top.
J. Kashaf, Bir Sultan28737Hilly rocky country, with gradual descentto J. Kashaf, which lies a short distance N.W. of Bir Sultan.

Bir Sultan, otherwise known as Wadi Natrun (the Natron Valley), Bir el Melha, or Bir Zaghawa, lies in the centre of a plain, bounded by hills to the N.W., N., and E. Three or four pans of good water; ground below the sand being white clay. A little N.W. lie the natron diggings, the natron being in a seam 2 inches deep, a few inches below the sandy surface. One and a half miles E. of the natron is J. Kashaf. Plenty of scrub and grazing. At Melani, under the eastern slope, the soil is quite damp.

Bir Sultan lies 10 days due W. of Old Dongola.

Zaghawa, which is marked on some maps as a definite place, is the name of the district inhabited by the nomad Arab tribe of that name. It is full of khors and wells, and is stated to be 4 days to S.W. of Bir Sultan. There is a little-used track from Lagia which passes through Zaghawa district and proceeds towards El Fasher, but it is not the Arbaïn Road. The Zaghawa people often come to the Bir Sultan.

From Bir Sultan to El Fasher the accounts of the road are contradictory. One account states that it is 10 days hard travelling, without water on the road, and that camels have to be specially trained for the journey. Other accounts say that from Bir Sultan to J. Meidob,[39] or to Bir Maharia (water at either place), the journey takes 4 to 5 days; on to Toma, in the midst of a cultivated populous district, 3 days; and on to El Fasher 1 day more. Another road appears to lead viâ Anka, 7 days from Fasher, and is said to take 15 days altogether; this is the one said to be generally used.

(Browne, in 1793, went from Bir El Melha (Sultan), viâ Medwa (?), S.W. to Wadi Mazruk and then S.E. to Kobe, but left a very meagre description of the actual journey.)

Recapitulation, showing approximate distances and days’ journey.

Place.Miles.Days.
Assiut——
Kharga1265
Bulak15½
Beris381½
Maks9⎱
⎰		3
Bir Murra78
Kassaba672½
Sheb251
Selima823
Lagia1405
Bir Sultan1576
J. Meidob (J. Anka 270)1907
El Fasher (El Fasher 110)1405½
1,06740

123.—ASWAN to DERAHEIB.

Compiled from a Report by Mr. Jennings-Bramly (1902).

N.B.—Distances only approximate, and may be underestimated.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Aswan——The road from Aswan to the well of UmHabal passes through a country destitute of any vegetation, but theroad is well marked, being constantly used by the Eshabab charcoalburners going to Aswan, and the Bisharin, who go to the same marketto buy corn.
Bir Um Habal4343The two most marked points are the J.Butitulub, from which the tomb on the hill opposite the AswanCommandania can be seen, and J. Umsuan on the Demhit range. Thedistance from Aswan to Bir Um Habal is a good day and a half withhamla. Bir Um Habal had plenty of good water at about 30 feet fromthe surface in June, but the level varies according to rainfall,though, according to the Arabs, water is never at any greatdistance from the surface.
From Bir Um Habal the road still liesthrough the hills, but soon leaving these crosses an open sandyplain, without vegetation of any kind. At the end of the first dayafter leaving Um Habal the road again winds between small rockyhills. The hills of J. Negib were evidently at one time mined, asthere are the remains of old houses and signs of the quartz havingbeen worked in many places.
Bir Negib5598Wadi Negib has a fewsayal trees; the water is good and plentiful. Bir Heimer, about 3hours’ march south, was formerly garrisoned by the Eshabab. Thereis always water there. The wadis we now passed had always a certainamount of camel fodder, but the grazing would be sufficient onlyfor a small number of animals, and it would be necessary to go someway from the beaten track to find it. Once Jebel Gedir is reachedthe track runs through small wadis with hilly sides, and soon theWadi Murra is reached; some way up this wadi there is a well, BirMurra, which, as its name denotes, is bitter.
Bir Heimer6104
Bir Murra18122
Ongwat16138Once the Wadi Murra is reached the hillsare left behind, and after about 5 miles the Wadi Alagi is reached;the wadi here is nothing but a flat bed of sand held in between lowslate hills. The Wadi Ongwat, now followed, is at its junction withthe Wadi Alagi profusely grown with handal (Colocynth) plant; buthas only a few trees. The well of Ongwat is in the hills of J.Ongwat; it is not more than 3 feet deep, and has plenty of goodwater.
J. Maksam——The Bir Ongwat is the boundary betweenthe Eshabab and Aliab tribes, though the well itself belongs to theEshabab. A road runs from Bir Ongwat to Bir Abu Tabag; but the mostdirect road to Bir Eigat is straight to J. Maksam, high red granitehills, in which, after rain, much good water can be found. Throughone end of the granite hills, before reaching El Deiga, a roadruns, joining Heimer and Abu Tabag direct.
The Wadi Alagi is very broad opposite J.Maksam, with only a tree here and there growing in its bed. Attimes during the rains this part of the wadi is cultivated. ElDeiga, a pass through which the Wadi Alagi cuts the small hills atthe northern extremity of J. Maksam, is also a boundary between theEshabab and Eliab. The Wadi Alagi, from El Deiga to Bir Jugub, isbounded by small hills to the south and rather larger to the north.Except for a sayal or selem tree here and there no vegetation is tobe found in the wadi.
Jugub40178In the Wadi Jugub there is a wellbelonging to the Aliab (Kurbeilab), which is sometimes openedaccording to the pasturage. This wadi had more vegetation than anywe had passed up to that time; there were growing besides theordinary selem a few marakh trees.
From Jugub to Eigat the road leaves theAlagi, passing through low hills to the north. J. Eigat can be seenfrom Jebel Jugub, and it could also be seen from J. Maksam if thathill were climbed.
Eigat27205There is a continuous line of high hillsfrom Bir Jugub to El Eigat, running nearly parallel with the roadat some 5 miles to the north. These were El Jugub, J. Hadaiber, J.Adrak, J. Eigat. The Wadi Eigat is well grown with marakh, heglig,sayal, selem, tundub and usher. It is a great contrast in itsgreenness to the Wadi Alagi, left the day before. The water atEigat is near the surface, sometimes running, and at no time in theyear more than a few feet down. The well belongs to the Aliabtribe.
There are at Eigat many signs that inolden times the hills were extensively mined. The road from Eigatto Bir Neshd in the Wadi Alagi is bad, but passable, though hamlacamels have some trouble in passing.
The easier road, though four or fivetimes longer, is down the Wadi Eigat and then across into theAlagi, which it follows to Neshd. Everywhere among the hills, fromEigat to the Alagi, along the direct road, are signs of old miningcolonies. The Alagi here is green with vegetation, the arak growseverywhere, with marakh and heglig, and of course sayal and selemtrees.
Neshd10215The well of Neshd,about half a mile up the Wadi Neshd, on the southern side of theAlagi, belongs to the Kurbeilab-Aliab. There is always good waterhere, but, owing to the rocks, camels cannot approach right up tothe well. At Bir Kamotit, which is some half a mile up the wadi,the water is good but rather tainted by the herds that water at it.This well is the property of the Hadl family.
Kamotit4½219½
From Bir Kamotit to the Deraheib the roadalways follows the Wadi Alagi, which is everywhere well grown withsayal, the bean of which is excellent food for sheep, goats orcamels. We saw many traces of the wild donkey, but did not actuallysee one.
Deraheib9½229Old mining colony. No well.

124.—KASSALA to MASSAUA.

By Lieutenant H. H. S. Morant (1898); Completed with Material taken from Reports by Colonel Hon. M. G. Talbot (1900) and Mr. F. B. Hohler (1901).

General Description. The road.The general direction of Massaua from Kassala is almost due E. From Sabderat to Keren the Italians have cleared a roadway about 50 feet in width, from which most of the stones and all vegetation, except an occasional large baobab tree, have been cleared. It is so clearly marked that a stranger could march by it even on a dark night. The only point of any difficulty is the low saddle at Bisha, where there was still room for a good deal of work (1900). In its long straight lines it reminds one strongly of the old Roman roads; it crosses ravines and water-courses at whatever angle it happens to strike them, but at many of the steeper ascents and descents narrow ramps have been cut. In several places along it the Italians have made new masonry wells.

The accompanying road report was made before the construction of this newly cleared road—which from Sabderat to Daura Obel passes N. of the old route, viâ Algeden and Eladal—and there is no detailed information at hand as to the water supply along that portion of the route, though there is said to be no difficulty in this respect for the ordinary traveller.

From Keren to Asmara, and thence after many zig-zags to Saati, there is an excellent driving road about 14 feet wide, with the exception of a length of about 6 miles before reaching Azteklezan, which had not (April, 1900) been completed to the full width, but was then practicable for wheeled vehicles. Throughout the length of this metalled road the gradients are occasionally of necessity rather steep; the kilometers are marked throughout.

Country.From Kassala to Keren the general character of the country strongly resembles much of that between Kassala and Suakin, and consists as a rule of level waterless plains of firm soil, at times sandy or gravelly, covered with fine short grass and scattered bushes of the acacia tribe, and intersected here and there by shallow sandy khors, which during the rainy season carry off the drainage from the rocky volcanic hills and granite koppies, which are so characteristic of this particular part of Africa.

From Keren to Massaua the character of the country entirely changes and the waterless plains and thorny acacias of the Kassala-Keren route are replaced by running streams and precipitous mountains, overgrown with euphorbia and wild olives, both on the ascent to the Asmara plateau, as well as in the descent to the maritime plain of Massaua.

Transport animals.For the entire journey mules are most suitable, but as far as Keren camels answer admirably. From Keren to Massaua, viâ Asmara, wheeled vehicles, mules or horses. If the direct desert route from Keren to Massaua be taken, camels are desirable, if not indispensable.

Supplies.Milk, goats, cattle, &c., are found, as elsewhere in the Sudan, throughout the route.

There are occasional small canteens at intervals, and fair stores at Keren, and some good shops at Asmara and Massaua, where most ordinary requirements are obtainable.

Water.If desired to move a force larger than a company along this route, enquiries as to state of water supply should be made, as it varies considerably according to the time of year.

Inhabitants.Speaking generally, the inhabitants between Kassala-Keren are Beni-Amer; after that a bastard type of Abyssinian, &c.

Climate.The climate along this route is on the whole good. Between Kassala-Keren and Ginda-Massaua it is decidedly hot in March, April, and May—probably in other months also. These are also the more feverish portions of the route, though probably no part of it is so unhealthy as Kassala. Between the sea and Agordat there occur in April what the Italians call the “little rains,” which mean very heavy thunder-storms; these cease before the end of the month, and the rainy season proper begins towards the end of May.

The climate on the Asmara plateau is said to be delightful, though perhaps the rains are excessive.

Game.There is little or no game along this route, except between Kassala and Keren, where ariel, gazelle, dig-dig, and guinea fowl may be met with.

Route (January to March).

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Kassala——Head Quarters of theKassala Province (fully described in Vol. I). From here the roadfollows the telegraph line and runs nearly due E. between JebelsMokrani and Kassala, over a level more or less open plain toSabderat, the village of which name is situated on the northernside of the gorge, through which flows Khor Tamarat, and is about1½ miles on the Italian side of the frontier, which is plainlymarked by pillars. Here there is a telegraph office and well with anever-failing and plentiful supply of good water.
Sabderat1717
Metaui (Algeden)1027From this point a road has been clearedby the Italians which runs nearly perfectly straight to thevicinity of Daura Obel, where it bends to the S., and thencefollows the old track. This latter leads from Sabderat to Metaui,where a good well was found (in 1898). The Arabs using the well,however, apparently live at a distance, and were not seen.
Aradeb12½39½From here the roadascends a col, and high ground continues on the right for about 5miles, after which the road leads over a level bush-covered plain,and after passing two unimportant detached jebels, a well, namedAradeb, close to the northern end of the second jebel, is reached.Plenty of shade, but very little water (April, 1898). The pathcontinues good over a level plain with scattered bush until Eladalis reached. Here there is a telegraph office, but only one wellwith extremely little water (April, 1898). Continuing, the track,after crossing a low saddle, traverses a defile with high rockyjebels on either side for about 5 miles, and then, after crossing awooded basin, ascends a high saddleback, from the summit of which afine view is obtainable. From here the track descends by a rathersteep and rocky pass to the wells of Daura Obel, which lie in thebed of a khor which finds an exit to the S., being shut in on threesides by high ground. After 2 miles this high ground is leftbehind, and a similar distance further on another khor is crossed,apparently flowing N. It must be somewhere near this point that thenew-cleared road previously referred to joins in.
Eladal12½52
Daura Obel1466
Bisha1480A level plain, covered with open bush, isnow traversed, and after passing between two detached hills, Bishais reached. Here there is a telegraph office and small village,situated on the side of the hill, about 1½ miles N.E. of the well,where there appeared to be plenty of water (April, 1898). Two milesfrom the well the road crosses the top of a saddle from which agood view E. and W. is obtainable. The road then descends a stonyravine, about 1 mile in length, and a sign board was passed,pointing S., “To Well”; thence across the usual bush-covered plainto Shaglet, where there are rest tukls and many dom palms. In thekhor close by, a tributary of the Baraka, there are several goodwells.
Shaglet1292
Agordat14106From near Shaglet the hills of Agordatare visible, and after traversing a plain (the scene of the firstbattle of Agordat) covered with scattered bush and intersected byseveral khors, the dom palms fringing the Khor Baraka are reachedat the foot of the hills (100 feet high?), on which are built thetwin fortresses of Agordat. These, however, are both commandedwithin artillery range from the S. There are one or more wells withany amount of good water to which there is a covered way from themain fort. Population 8,000. But few stores can be purchased here.The climate is hot and considered unhealthy, though it is the onlystation in the colony, except perhaps Massawa, that can be comparedwith Kassala in that respect.
Adarte17123The road now crossesthe sandy bed of the Khor Baraka and traverses an undulating,tolerably open plain (the scene of the second fight with theDervishes), and recrossing the Baraka about 7 miles further oncontinues up its valley to Adarte, where there are wells withrather a meagre water supply. From here the path continues up thescattered bush-covered valley of a tributary of the Baraka, untilAgat is reached; here there are several wells, and water seemsplentiful. After leaving Agat, the valley narrows considerably,though the plain which bears slight indications of cultivation (thefirst seen since leaving Kassala) continues level until reachingthe foot of the somewhat steep ascent to the plateau (4,470 feetapprox.) on which the fortress and town of Keren are situated. Thisof course belonged to Egypt in the old days, and was then known asSenhit, from the name of a small village still existing. The fort,which is built on a detached hill about 150 feet high, contains awell, but is itself commanded by the hills to the S. and S.W.within comparatively easy artillery range.
Agat10133
Keren11144
The water supply is good, but fuel isscarce in the immediate neighbourhood. There is a rather largemarket, some good stores, canteens, Post and Telegraph Office,&c. The climate here is comparatively cool and healthy.
After quitting Keren, the generalcharacter of the country changes almost at once, and a series ofprecipitous hills and mountains, with perennial streams, areencountered.
Khor Anseba6½150½The best route to Massaua is that by thenew metalled coach road viâ Asmara. This road, aftertraversing undulating country for about 8½ miles crosses the bed ofthe Khor Anseba, in which are pools during most of the dryseason.
From here there is an almost continuousascent till reaching Azteklesan.
Halibaret6½157Six and a half miles further on thenarrow stream of Halibaret is met; good running water.
From here there is a direct caravan routeto Massaua, but water along it is rather scarce, especially in thedry season.
[The following is an account:—
[Halibaret—157Leaving Halibaret bythe direct track at the bottom of the valley the path is open,level, and easy. There is a little water to be found in the valleyof the Maldi, but it is scarce in the Beloa valley, which is quitedry from January to June. The descent to the Beloa is bad. FromMagasas there is a slight descent to the valley of the Maldi, andthence the road is good to Ambelako, near where running water isfound at Galushima.
Ambelako25182
Fil Fil8190Good running water. Between Fil Fil andGergeret there are some very steep and stony ascents and descents,which are difficult for camel caravans. Same applies to the Ailetdefile later on, which however is not so steep, being merely the stony bed ofa stream. The track crosses three ranges of thickly wooded hills,and water is found in the Solomoni valley, about half way toGergeret. The forest becomes less dense and the trees smaller asone approaches Gergeret.
Gergeret10202Good water is found in abundance here,except in the months of July and October, when the supplydiminishes considerably.
Ailet8210From Gergeret to Ailet the heat is oftenintense, and there is a complete absence of water. Road mostly verystony, especially in the Ailet Gorge. Water bad and scarce.
[Saati11221
N.B.—This route report fromHalibaret to Saati is not very reliable.]
Halibaret (stream)—157Soon after crossingthis the ascent to the Asmara plateau begins in earnest, and theroad zig-zags up rugged mountain sides until the summit is reached,at Azteklesan, a tukl village, which had a couple of small canteens(April, 1898), rest-houses, and a plentiful supply of water.
Azteklesan13½170½
Siuma Negus8178½From here the direct road winds alongover at first rather a hilly bit of country covered with scatteredbush and trees, and occasional khors, generally with water in them,until reaching Siuma Negus, where there is a stream of good water,and a fair-sized village. The metalled coach road, after leavingAzteklesan, makes a considerable detour to the N., and is 3 or 4miles longer. From here to Asmara, an open and slightly undulatingfertile plain extends, dotted here and there with villages andseveral running streamlets.
Asmara11½190This is the capital of Eritrea, andresidence of the Governor and Military Commandant. It is a militarystation of great importance to the Colony, and consequently has aconsiderable garrison. There is also a practically impregnable andheavily armed fort, as well as others of lesser importance. In thetown, which has made great strides of late, are some excellentshops kept by Europeans, though, beyond the actual officials,Italians have not yet colonized to any extent. There is a R.C.Church, club, and some fair cafés.
The Government of Eritrea is carried onby a Civilian Governor-General and a Military Commandant.
The Army consists (1901) of 600 Italiansoldiers and about 7,000 natives. The artillery corps is recruitedfrom blacks.
Asmara being roughly 7,000 feet above thesea has a temperate climate, and frost is not uncommon. There is aconsiderable rainfall in the summer months.
From Asmara to Ginda the most direct roadis the mule track which follows the telegraph line down anexceedingly rocky and precipitous descent which begins about 2½miles from the edge of the plateau, which again is about the samedistance from the town. After about 2 miles the descent to Ginda,which is through fine scenery, a deep valley, enclosed on eitherside by precipitous mountains, becomes more gradual.
Ginda15205At Ginda there is an excellent canteen(on a small scale) and good water supply (wells and stream).
The distance by the coach road must be atleast 25 miles.
Sabarguma5210Between Ginda and Sabarguma, where thereis also a canteen and good water, the mule track again isconsiderably shorter than the carriage road, and traversescomparatively easy hills which are covered with thick forest.
Soon after leaving Sabarguma, a plain ofthe same name is crossed. This is noted for the intensity of itsheat, and is said to have accounted for many of the flower of theItalian Army.
Saati11221After crossing the plain, undulating opencountry extends to Saati, which was railhead (1898), though now therailway is said to have reached about half way to Sabarguma(1901).
At Saati, which is about 400 feet abovethe sea, there is a canteen, but water has to be brought fromMassaua by the single line of railway.
Massaua17240Two trains arrive and depart daily.Massaua contains a good harbour, barracks, very fair shops, and atleast one quite respectable café, but it is a very hot, damp,unhealthy, and generally unpleasant place. Beninfeld’s agent wouldprobably be the best man from whom to obtain transport, &c. Thetwo lines of steamers which call at Massaua are the “FlorioRubattino” and “Khedivial.”

125.—TAKARASHORIT or AMBARAB on the KHOR GASH viâ SOGADA and KHOR MAIETIB to UMBREGA on the RIVER SETIT.

By Captain H. H. S. Morant, March, 1900.

General remarks.From Ambarab to Sogada the road is good enough for camels, and is kept open by frequent small caravans. There was also said to be a route from Todluk to Sogada, which was however described as “bad,” probably hilly.

Beyond Sogada the road itself presents no great difficulties, but the absence of traffic[40] has allowed the thorny bushes to close in on it to such an extent as to very seriously interfere with loaded or riding camels almost the whole way to Gira.

Once the Setit is reached, there is no real difficulty about water, but after the first 15 miles or so below Maietib the water is only accessible at certain places. The further you descend the river, the broader the strip of broken ground becomes on each side of the stream, the further the road keeps from it, and the wider apart are the watering places.

Probably the best plan when marching along the valley is to spend the heat of the day on the river, and the night on the plateau above.

Water should be carried in fantasses, as skins get cut to pieces by the thorns.

Cutting tools are desirable.

No supplies are obtainable nearer than Gedaref on the Setit. There are no settled inhabitants east of the village of Wad Heleiwa, 11½ miles E. of Sofi on the Atbara.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Takarashorit——This appears to bethe name of some wells in the bed of the Gash, about 45 miles aboveKassala. If not constantly used, these wells are quickly filled inby the sand; but as the water is not more than 6 feet to 10 feetbelow the surface, they are easily opened out again. The bed hereis sandy and about 120 yards wide. Ambarab is the name given to agrassy, and in the rains marshy, place about 1½ miles further upstream on the left bank.
Ambarab——
There is a road from here to Agordat. Theroad to Sogada leads generally in a S. direction for the most partover level ground covered with more or less thick bush, whichoffers no serious obstacle to camels in single file.
There are several tracks, used probablyat different times of the year. There are a few slight ascents anddescents, but nothing at all serious.
Sogada1818The road passes through some low stonyhills partially covered with thorny bush, and at 18 miles it leavesthe village of Sogada about ¾ mile on the left high up on the S.W.slopes of J. Argoji, the highest hill in the immediateneighbourhood. The village did not appear to contain more than 25tukls.
There is a large and deep well at thefoot of the hill, but the water was reported to be bad.
Khor Angaleib119Track now crosses a level plain enclosedon all sides by hills, with openings to the W. After crossing thekhor, signs of recent dura cultivation were seen at intervals onboth sides of the road.
Khor Gersat322Here there is a large well on the N. sideof the khor, which gives a plentiful supply of good water. Thereare no tukls actually at the well, as the inhabitants prefer tobuild their houses on the hill sides, but there are severalsettlements in the immediate neighbourhood, all of which areincluded under the district name of Sogada.
The inhabitants are Baza, or Badein, orKunama. They are very much afraid of the Bazas of the Setit, whoraid them occasionally, they say, under Abyssinian leadership, butthey seem to be friendly with the Beni Amer, whose merchantspurchase dura from them. The Sheikh’s name is Haidar WadIbrahim.
Dinti2¼24¼From here the track proceeds nearly dueS., but winds about a good deal amongst low hills and through thickbush, which, with one or two steep-banked khors, greatly impede themarch of loaded camels.
The hamlet of Dinti is passed about 1½miles to the left on the slopes of J. Dinti. The inhabitants ofLakatakura were camped in this neighbourhood, but whether they hadleft their home on account of the failure of their water supply, orfrom fear of the Abyssinians, it was difficult to make out.
3¼27½After some more tedious windings thetrack descends into a level plain, bounded by the Atbara on the W.,and Setit on the S., and on the E. by an apparently continuousrange of hills, at the foot of which lies the Baza village ofLakatakura.
Khor Gullui2½30This khor is a considerable obstacle,being at least 15 feet deep and perhaps 30 yards wide. The sidesare steep at regular crossing places. A few miles to the W., nearJ. Hamid, the water stands for a long time in the khor after therains. That place is often referred to by natives as Gullui, and itseems to be on the old frontier of Hamrans, Beni Amer andBazas.
There is some Baza cultivation near theKhor Gullui.
J. Sabun535From here on to J. Sabun, a smallisolated hill said to be on the frontier between Hamrans and Bazas,the track passes through very thick thorn bush, which greatlyimpedes loaded camels.
Khor Sanasaba3¼38¼The track leaves J. Sabun just on itsright and turns more to the E. The thorns are less troublesome, andpatches of cultivation and open spaces with high grass arepassed.
Khor Lakisaba341¼Track continuesthrough the same class of country nearly due E., and afterascending the Khor Lakisaba for about 3 miles, it leaves it andascends its left bank, making straight for the hills. Eventually itenters the valley of the Lakisaba, and a halt was made in its bedin a spot enclosed between the hills of J. Komkom and J.Agachina.
Halting-place5¾47
There was no better reason for theselection of this halting-place, which was at least a mile off ourroad, than that it was perhaps the nearest point to the water atthe head of the Khor Lakisaba, to which loaded camels could gowithout considerable difficulty. This water, the only water withinabout 20 miles in any direction, is said to be contained in a largecleft in the rock about 1 hour’s camel march beyond thehalting-place. The cleft is high up in the rocks, and all the waterhas to be carried down by hand.
There were a few Baza families there, whoassisted in the watering of our animals and filling our fantasses,but the delay was very great.
Lakatakura lies about 3½ to 4miles N. of the Khor Lakisaba. It was deserted, and thewell was said to be dry.
R. Setit2168After retracing our steps for a mile westruck off in a S. direction, and followed a track made by anItalian hunting party a few days before. This track had evidentlynot been used for many years, as it was all overgrown with thorns,and was very indistinct in places. Fortunately the hunting partyhad been obliged to partially clear it for their camels, and afterconsiderable difficulties we emerged from the hills after goingabout 12 miles, and reached the Khor Maichhi. Here there are manyhashab, baobab, and sunt trees. Soon after the Khor Maietib iscrossed, and places were seen where it is said water used formerlyto remain even during the hot weather. After a few more milesthrough undulating wooded country the track leads suddenly on tothe bank of the Setit opposite a large pool about 1 mile below itsjunction with the Khor Maietib, which is said to be the oldboundary between the Hamran and Baza tribes. There was some tobaccogrowing in this khor which was said to have been planted by theAbyssinian Baza.
About here the Setit averages 100 to 150yards wide, with a good deal of running water in it, thoughfrequently fordable at this season (March). Banks 20 to 30 feethigh with a good deal of tamarisk.
K. Debebi169Following river, downright bank K. Debebi and Abu Osher are crossed.
K. Abu Osher2½71½
J. Mudassir4½76J. Mudassir is left ¾mile on right and after crossing K. Meshra El Gedad J. Elaklei isalso left same distance on right place on right bank named Darfit is passed, andKhor Um Hagar reached, the jebel of same name being 1 mile onright. Soon after crossing this khor, a track leads N. to AbuGamal. Broken ground now begins.
K. Meshra El Gedad1½77½
J. Elaklei178½
Darfit179½
Um Hagar180½
Helegim181½After crossing theisland of Helegim and marching down bed of river, good shade isreached on left bank.
Halt1½83
J. Um Hagar285From here, leavingthe river which was running S.W., owing to impossibility ofmarching along it on account of ravines and thick bush, a N.direction was taken to foot of J. Um Hagar, then, turning W.,marched over bad cotton soil chiefly along elephant tracks at footof low ridge of hills left on right till, reaching a shorterdetached ridge, we turned S., passing Hafeira, an old burial groundof Hamrans, and descended to the river at Umbrega, where the Setitflows between white cliffs, Geif El Hamam, on left bank, andprecipitous ground on right bank. The last 17 miles had been nearlyall bad going, and game paths were the only tracks met. Gamebetween Maietib and Umbrega plentiful. Lion, abu ma’arif (RoanAntelope), kudu, water-buck, tétel (tora hartebeeste), bushbuck,ariel, gazelle, oribi, dig-dig, wart-hog, hippo. Numbers of giraffeand elephant tracks were seen, but buffalo tracks only twice.
Ridge6¼91¼
Hafeira798¼
Umbrega[41]2100¼

126.—GALLABAT to CHELGA.

By Captain A. C. Parker, January, 1904.

General.From Gallabat to where the track crosses the Gandoa, ground is undulating and track continually crosses khors which drain into the Gandoa or the Atbara. Country bushed and rocky, but stretches of cotton soil in places; from the Gandoa on to Chelga track gets worse and gradients more severe and valleys running down from the Escarp more deeply cut.

Water.Is in plenty all along the road, there is not an interval of 10 miles without good water.

Supplies.Perhaps a little dura can be obtained at Wahni (up to an ardeb or two) otherwise non-existent.

Inhabitants.Belata Dasta’s village is at Wahni, otherwise no inhabitants except roving bands of hunters, usually Tigréans.

Transport.Mule, donkey and pony pack-transport only suitable, though camels said to have been used as far as Wahni.

Passes.The Emperor’s pass is a necessity.

Game.Plentiful on Atbara and Gandoa.

Escort.An escort of 8 to 10 men is necessary in case of bandits.

N.B.—W = Wauz = Khor. T = Tarara = Jebel.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Gallabat——Leaving Gallabat,path crosses Khor Abnakheir; ground rises from khor rough andstony; about 300 yards from it, a track leads in a more southerlydirection to Kwara; track, running a little S. of E., passes roundS. end of Tarara Mariam Waha (200 feet); skirting S. of this hilland its continuations, path is rough, cut up by small khors runningS. from them; at mile 3, low hills begin on S. of track andcontinue for a mile, track rough, winding, and cut up by smallkhors running N. From here country becomes more open, cotton soil,and low trees untila small khor fringed with big trees is reached, and a few hundredyards on, Khor Chincha, a rocky khor, water plentiful. Trackmeanders on through rocky ground, rough going, for a mile, whencotton soil and more or less open country is reached; another 1½miles, and a rocky khor is reached.
Tarara Mariam Waha22
24
Khor Chincha15
Khor Sababa2½7½(Khor Sababa.) A fewhundred yards on is the halting-place Wahsha, steep cliff on N. ofkhor making waterfall when water sufficient, still rough going,cotton soil and rocky alternately; ¾ mile on, cross Khor Abd ElRizak Gowari (12 yards wide), cotton soil thickly wooded at mile10. A small khor is crossed and ¼ mile on Khor Goghan; at mile 10½,Khor Koki, or Shatta, is crossed; this is a very winding, deepkhor, banks 10 feet, bed shingly, 15 yards wide, water veryplentiful, good shade. Track crosses this khor twice more beforeleaving it, when country becomes fairly open, with small trees, andafter 2 miles reaches and passes to S. of a small hill (120 feet),Tarara Jingandibba (or J. Wad Manna). Path now continually crossessmall khors running N.; at mile 16 Khor Ardeiba is passed, and 2miles on Khor Wandoferi is crossed (7 yards wide, banks 6 feethigh, not much water, good shade); ¾ mile good going, and trackbegins to descend, and ½ mile on reaches Khor Aftit (12 yards wide,banks 10 feet high, good water and shade). ½ mile on crosses smallkhor, country much cut up. 1½ miles on Khor Shahadi (16 yards wide,deep pools, general direction N.) is crossed; ¾ mile on path skirtsedge of cliff 50 feet high, at bottom of which is Khor Shahadi; atmile 23¾ track descends rapidly, and ¼ mile on crosses small khor;½ mile further on small khor of flowing water, and at mile 25¼ KhorGandoa (50 yards wide in deep pools). From this point road toDagussa leads off up left bank of Gandoa. Crossing Gandoa, trackruns almost parallel with it, low hills 1,000 yards off to N. andalso on other side of Gandoa; at mile 27 track crosses Ofing GandoaW. (small, with water), and at mile 27½ passes close S. of a hill(200 feet). Bamboos now first observed in abundance; ¼ mile on pathcrosses Jirar W. (15 yards wide, pools of water). At mile 28 pathpasses close N. of a low hill running down towards the Gandoa, andat mile 30½ close S. of another hill, low hills still to N.; 2¼miles on reach Agam W., flowing water (named from the lilac-likeflowering bush growing there). At mile 33¼ cross small khor, andanother khor 2 miles from Agam W., low hills now only 250 yards offto N.; ½ mile on pass close to S. of another hill. At mile 36 trackcrosses a small stony khor with a thick fringe of bamboos, and ¾mile on close round the S. of a bluff; ¾ mile small khor, and atmile 38 reaches Abai W., a running stream coming from among somehills about 600 feet high and 1,500 yards off N. of road. Track nowleads up the valley of a small khor with low hills on both sidesquite close, dense jungle of bamboo, high grass, etc., but after 1¼miles begins to ascend a spur rapidly, and in course of the nexthalf mile rises about 200 feet, then across a flat withamphitheatre of precipitous flat-topped hills (600 feet) to N.,about 2,000 yards off, to southern end of Tarara Kamachela (700 to800 feet). Track passes round S. of Kamachela, and close under it,running at right angles to its former direction; still under hillcrosses khor of water, and a mile on reaches site of Wahni Suk (nobuildings). From the Suk there is very steep path leading up to thevillage of Wahni (uninhabited when seen); this is situated on thetop of Kamachela, a plateau sloping away to the N. There is alittle cultivation below (dura and cotton), but grain can only bebought in very limited quantities. From Wahni Suk track resumes itsold course; after 1 mile a khor (10 yards wide) full of water iscrossed, and ½ mile on track passes through two or three low hills.½ mile on a small khor of water is crossed. Here the “Candelabracactus” makes its first appearance. Path now descends rapidly, andreaches khor in bottom of valley about 250 feet below Wahni Suk.Since crossing the Gandoa, khors have all been running more or lessW., but from here, after ascending out of valley, another water system isencountered, the water running N. Path ascends and crosses spurs,running N. from a square precipitous hill, Tarara Angedibba.
Khor Koki310½
Tarara Jingandibba212½
Khor Wandoferi5½18
Khor Aftit1¼19¼
Khor Shahadi221¼
Khor Gandoa425¼
2¼27½
½28
2½30½
Agam W.2¼32¾
3¼36
Abai W.238
Tarara Kamachela341
Wahni Suk3½44½
145½
146½
147½
148½
1¼49¾At mile 49¾ saddle N.of Tarara Angedibba is passed over, and path at once descendsrapidly into the jungley valley of the Baloha W., some small khorsare crossed, and 2 miles from saddle there is a small hill on leftof path; ¾ mile on track crosses Baloha W., a babbling stream 12yards wide, two or three times, and at mile 53¼ begins to ascendrapidly, and in ¼ mile reaches saddle under Tarara Baloha. Strikingalong the hill for ¾ mile track crosses a spur, and descends intothe valley of Sunkwa W., flowing water, reaching latter afteranother 1¼ miles. Path now ascends rapidly out of khor, and after 1mile passes close N. of a hill (some 250 feet high); two or threesmall khors are crossed running N., and 2¼ miles from the Sunkwapath reaches a saddle, hills visible N. and S.; path now ascendsand runs along the N. side of a range of hills for 4 miles, whentrack skirts to N. of a knobby hill on top of the range; there is alittle water in a khor running down the hill northwards here, butnot enough for baggage animals; track now changes to S. side ofrange and skirts along, winding in and out between gullies andspurs until a small pool of water is reached in Savinki W.
251¾
1¾53½
Sunkwa W.255½
Savinki W.3¾66½
Gint W.268½From here track runsa few hundred yards almost due south, then changes to south-east,ground more level as nearer base of hills; now reaches Gint W.,close under Tarara Wahamba, a jagged basaltic remnant. Track nowwinds for about a mile, turning continually at right angles, asground is very rough and cut up by khors. Path finally crosses tosouth of Gint W., a running stream, and ascends a spur of Wali Devarange, rounding spurs and crossing khors; at mile 72¼ track, whichis close down to khor, rises sharply up a spur for 300 yards, andskirts along higher up. At mile 75¾ path again rises rapidly up aspur, and after a pretty hard climb of some 1,600 feet passes up acleft and reaches top of escarpment at head of valley of Gint W.Country is now open and rolling, track ascends gradually for 2½miles, when it crosses the watershed. Here a view of Lake Tsana isobtained. Path now descends, easy gradients, into the Goang valley,and reaches Chelga at mile 84¾.
3¾72¼
3½75¾
Top of Escarpment——
2½81¼
Chelga3½84¾

127.—LAKE TSANA (GOJA) to GANDOA.

By Captain A. C. Parker, Royal Sussex Regiment, March, 1904.

General.Goja to Gallabat fair path, better than Chelga to Gallabat Road, but after descent of Escarp there are several bad places.

Water.Is plentiful, nowhere more than 10 miles interval without it.

Supplies.Obtainable nil.

Inhabitants.Abyssinian villages from Lake Tsana up to watershed. A monastry at Mabra Solasi near Bamba. Stray hunting parties in the country adjoining the frontier.

Transport.Mule, donkey, and pony pack-transport only suitable.

Passes, game, escort.See [route Gallabat—Chelga.]

N.B.—W = Wauz = Khor = dry watercourse. T = Tarara = Jebel = mountain.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
11Path leaves Goja in anortherly direction through high grass, and crosses a small khoralmost at once. After 1 mile passes round west side of a low hill;1½ miles on cross Anfordibba W. Full of running water; ground risesslowly; open country; path crosses Ariko W., full of water, and,still ascending, leaves small hill on left, and at mile 4 passes abig tree marking spot where market used to be held.
Ariko1¾2¾
Amusgebaia1¼4“Amusgebaia”—legendsays tree was used for hanging people. Cross four small khors, and,still gradually ascending, reach Goanderat village. Track crossestwo small khors and gradually runs up side of a small valley on towatershed; now descends slowly, and reaches camping ground atBarbaria Kora (small amount of water). Ground slopes away foranother 1½ miles, when track descends rapidly down north side of agully and, striking down a spur, reaches a saddle; now skirts northside of spur, path descending rapidly. At mile 12½ track passesalong edge of a sheer precipice; shortly after path runs sharplydown a spur in a more northerly direction; at mile 14 it leavesspur and leads down steep rocky descent across small khor andreaches camping place, “Diloa W.”; said to be water in khor, but Idid not see it. Track now very much shut in, thick bush and roughstony descents, an especially bad one at mile 16¾. At mile 17 trackfollows bed of small khor, crossing it continually, track bad,thick bush, shut in both sides by hills; at mile 19 this khor joinsGanbilo W.; juncture is called Girad Mwat, there is abundant water.Follows Ganbilo W., a khor 20 yards wide with pools, crossing itsix times in the next 2¾ miles; track now passes between two hills,that on N. being very steep and probably end of a ridge which runsdown from Tankal. Path now descends slowly, bamboo jungle, and 1½miles on reaches junction of two khors, Goandera W., waterplentiful. 1¾ miles on path crosses khor (Tukur Waha W.); path nowalong right bank of Jira W., 25 yards wide with large pools, thencross Ambo W. This comes from a spring about ½ mile further back inhill, where it bubbles up quite warm; a couple of hundred yards offon the other side of the Jira lie the hot baths Mwat Abba Mariam.2½ miles on pass to N. of low hill; hills on N. of path about 400yards off, Jira W. still lying parallel with road but some way offto S.; at mile 31¾ track runs close to the Jira, here deep waterbut narrow for 500 yards, when a deep khor coming from N. iscrossed; track now leaves Jira and leads up a defile down which akhor, a tributary of Jira runs; cross this khor for first time atmile 33, steep precipitous hills on both sides, path ascendingdense bamboo thickets, reach water at mile 37¼. Ascent from Jirahas been 300 or 400 feet; path now descends rapidly 350 feet, andleads down north side of a flat valley, path good, and reachesWanenta, water sufficient for party of 30 or so; now along northside of valley close under low hills; on south side of valley is avery prominent cone-shaped hill. Cross Shimel Waha W., waterabundant, and 1 mile on cross small khor, halting-place under agemmeiza tree, called Bamba, track level and good; cross JinetaMariam W., running water, and 1¼ miles on another running stream,called Mariam Waha W.; ¼ mile further track passes close north of ahill; ground now broken up by spurs running northwards; path nowdescends and crosses Nefoing Gandoa W. just at the junction withthe Gandoa; another 1½ miles on and Jigebit camping ground on theGandoa is reached. 2¼ miles on cross khor of running water, and atmile 57 cross Barkurkur W., a small khor of flowing water; 2 mileson track passes south of Tarara Bisaurkudat, and ½ mile on reachesMalkam Waha W., a small khor of flowing water. At mile 60¾ crossesa khor of running water and another one 500 or 600 yards on; atmile 62½ pass close to a bend of the Gandoa, and 1 mile on acrossthe Wahsha W.; after another mile cross a big khor, and 700 yardson a small khor with water; another deep khor without water iscrossed, and then the Gandoa is reached. Path skirts it for somehundreds of yards till it reaches point where Wahni roadcrosses.
Goanderat¾4¾
2¾7½
Barbaria Kora18½
2¼10¾
1¾12½
Diloa W.1¾14¼
Girad Mwat4¾19
423
Goandera W.1½24½
Ambo2¼26¾
Mwat Abba Mariam1¼28
2½30½
1¼31¾
1¼33
4¼37¼
Wanenta4½41¾
Shimel Waha W.3¼45
Bamba146
Jineta Mariam2¼48¼
1½49¾
Nefoing Gandoa1¾51½
Jigebit1½53
2¼55¼
Barkurkur1¾57
Malkam Waha W.2½59½
1¾62½
Wahsha W.163½
Gandoa2½66
Measurements by pacing, pace reckoned 32½inches.

128.—ADDIS ABBABA, viâ GOJJAM and LAKE TSANA, to GALLABAT.[42]

By Mr. J. Baird, May, 1901.

Place.Miles.Hours’ march.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
H.M.
Addis Abbaba———The road from Addis Abbaba is rough andhilly. Three nullahs are crossed, two of them with steep sides. Nofuel. Barley can be bought. Excellent grazing. Two good streams 50yards from camp (S.).
Sallulta44150Excellent going over undulating grasscountry. Six streams crossed, all easy and containing a fair supplyof water. Many villages and much ploughed land en route.Cattle and horses numerous; fuel plentiful. Last hour’s marchthrough acacia scrub. Good stream. Supplies as before.
Muggur-Affaf21½25½835The descent into theMuggur, commencement of which is reached 2 hours after leavingcamp, is precipitous and unrideable. Loaded mules get down withdifficulty. Muggur reached 4 hours from start. Ascent to other (N.)side of valley is easier, but also mostly unrideable. Camp at edgeof S. plateau. No water between camps, except Muggur. Two villagespassed in valley, one on either side of river. Some cotton andbarley grown. Monkeys and florican on hills. Each side of RiverMuggur 2,800 feet below either plateau. Grazing bad; barley andsheep in small quantities. A fair stream 100 yards N. of camp. Woodplentiful in Muggur valley, but scarce immediately round camp.
Yaïya16½4275
Kessi17½59½645Easy marching over undulating grasscountry; for the last 1½ hours through occasional chavaha trees.Fuel scarce. The hills, which are a mile E. and N.E. of camp, arewooded, but plains are treeless. Excellent grazing; fair suppliesof barley and sheep. A small stream 100 yards N. of camp.
Jarso21½81835Excellent going over gently undulatinggrass plateau. Few streams crossed, and water usually scarce andbad. No trees. A few villages. Few cattle. A large market at Jarsoon Saturdays; barley, sheep, and fuel to be bought. Fair stream 50yards W. of camp.
Blue Nile (right bank)149570This camp is a very bad one. Tents haveto be pitched on the track, which runs along the steep N. bank ofthe Nile. Any amount of fuel. The descent is unrideable, and muleshave to be unloaded once to get through narrow pass. River 4,680feet below S. plateau. Few mosquitoes. Many crocodiles and goodfish can be caught in Nile. No water between Jarso and river. Nograzing and no supplies. Wood abundant.
Dejen13½108½70The first part of ascent is most tryingfor mules. At one part they have to be unloaded and load carried upsteps for 40 feet (1 hour 13 minutes after start); the remainder ofthe road runs over successive plateaux, connected by steep ascents.Village of Mere (friendly chief, Balambaras Nagau) near top ofascent, and considerable amount of cultivation around it. Excellentgrazing; plentiful supplies from neighbouring village. Water badand little from stream 100 yards E. of camp. Wood scarce.
Abukerk14½12360A good camping-place in sheltered cup.Wood plentiful on surrounding hills. A fair number of villages inneighbourhood, and some cultivation. Excellent going, mostly overundulating grass; treeless plain from Dejen. A few streams enroute. Latter part along wooded western slope of ridge.Excellent grazing; supplies plentiful. Water, good supply fromstream 50 yards W. of camp. Wood abundant.
Askatta7½130½315Camp on treeless slope of undulatingplain, over which road led from Abukerk. Several streams crossed,all easy, and going excellent all the way. Little cultivation; goodgrazing. Supplies plentiful at neighbouring village. Water, fairsupply from stream 100 yards below camp. Wood scarce.
Debra Markos10½141430The track is hilly, and in some placesthe descents are steep and slippery after rain. Much of the roadlies through thick acacia scrub, almost impassable except by themain mule track. Water plentiful. Track narrow in places. Largemarket.
Delma18½159½70Small camping ground on a slope runningfrom N.N.W. to a fair stream running W. Excellent going,alternately through cultivation, bush and plain. Many rivers enroute, all easily crossed. Grazing bad. Villages inneighbourhood numerous. Barley plentiful and cheap. Wood and waterabundant.
Dembecha9½169240A steep descent 5 minutes after starting,and fairly steep descent and ascent into and out of Tumcha river;the track, except for the last hour, leads through scrub and thickwood; the crossing of the Gadlar is easy, low banks. Excellentcamping ground on the E. side of Dembecha, ½ mile from Gadlar;first rate grazing. Barley, rif. Market on Mondays. Water abundant;wood on surrounding hills, and can be bought.
River Bakkalla19188645Passing through Dembecha the road ascendsgradually for the first ½ hour some 200 feet over open grasscountry; it then drops into a thick forest, where the track is sonarrow and deep that two mules could not pass in some places; thickundergrowth. After three-quarters of an hour’s march, the Cherikastream is crossed 350 feet below the Dembecha; from here onwardsthe trees and the undergrowth are far less thick, and the track nolonger runs in a deep rut. During the next three-quarters of anhour the road drops gradually 250 feet, and then falls 500 feet in20 minutes down to the Kacham river. The descent is easy. The riverin May is some 15 yards wide, from 1 to 2 feet deep, with a swiftcurrent; flat, wooded banks. Large, flat, slippery stones make thecrossing rather troublesome. The valley of this river is about ¾mile wide. The road now rises 290 feet, crossing a spur which jutsout from the hills bounding Kacham’s valley on the W. and droppingagain to 10 feet below the Kacham’s level, crosses the Birr river50 minutes later. The bed of the Birr at the crossing is some 80yards wide, the left bank 15 to 20 feet high and the right banklower; the water (7th May) runs with a swift current, about 1 footdeep, over a rocky bed in two channels, separated by a mass ofblack rock. 200 yards below the crossing there is a fall of some 30feet, below which the river runs in a narrow gorge enclosed byblack rocks; 300 yards below this it is crossed by a rough logbridge. The road from here runs over an undulating grass-coveredplain, bare atfirst, but during the last 2 hours’ march, wooded. The RiversSarinwaha, Tamim, Lach and Bakkalla are crossed, as well as twounnamed streams; in May they none of them present any difficulty.The camp is a small and bad one on the sloping N. bank of theBakkalla river. Wood and water plentiful, also barley.
Burre9½197½40As far as Monkussa the track winds N.W.and W. over undulating grass country dotted with acacia trees.Parallel to the road, on the S. side of it, and apparently about 5miles off, runs a chain of hills. The river Birr flows past thesouthern end, and the Lach the northern of this range; they join onthe far side and flow into the Blue Nile. One small stream iscrossed before reaching Monkussa, and one immediately after leavingthat village, the Dawuna by name, 20 yards wide; water knee-deep inMay, with a strong current. The crossing is troublesome on accountof very slippery, flat stones. After leaving Monkussa, the trackwinds through more thickly-wooded country, and eventually runs overa treeless plain, out of which rises the knoll where Burre isbuilt. There is ample space for a good camp No wood at the town,but easily procured close by. Water supply not seen, but must befairly copious. Large supplies.
This is the capital of Damot, the seat ofRas Warke, the governor, and the centre of a populous, fertile, andcultivated district.
The villages of Waan and Zoava are passedbetween Monkussa and Burre.
Chara6½204230An easy march through a populous, wellcultivated, undulating country. Good camping ground on the edge ofa stream; villages all around. Supplies, wood and waterplentiful.
Anjavera18222720Eight miles through undulatingcultivation; cross Fattom river, tributary of Blue Nile, 40 yardswide and 3 feet deep at crossing; stream sluggish. Then 2½ milesthrough dense forest, after which track twists through wooded hillsinto a fairly populous and cultivated plain. Rise of 600 feetduring march. Inhabitants not very friendly. Supplies as before,and some cattle.
Dangalla20½242½80Rise rapidly 300 feet. Crossthickly-wooded ridge forming water-parting between Tsana and BlueNile systems, then drop by narrow winding track through denseforest into rich, undulating, well-watered country, with patches ofcultivation. Track in places very narrow, and worn deep into theclay. Four hundred yards N.W. of point where track emerges fromwooded ridge, rises a sugar-loaf hill, called Zurachi, about 1,000feet, forming a conspicuous landmark. E. of track are severalisolated hills, among which is Saatma, visible for some distance oneither side of Anjavera. Last 8 miles through populous and fertiledistrict of Achaffer. Camp in centre of four scattered villages.After crossing ridge excellent going. Wood and water scarce.
Ismaila7249½230Good camp. Fair water and supplies.
Nefassa16265½630Cross River Barati, tributary of BlueNile; easy crossing; thence up gentle slope past Libtan, a largevillage with considerable amount of cultivation; skirt foot ofhills bounding valley of Blue Nile on W. to Nefassa. Poor, thinlypopulated district. Supplies scarce; no sheep or cattle. Water andwood scarce.
Liven6271½225A good camping ground. Open country. Goodroad from Ismaila. Barley can be bought, but no sheep; a few cattlein the neighbourhood. Wood plentiful; small water supply.
Forehe9½281345Good camp. A good road from Liven.Natives unfriendly. Supplies and water scarce.
Konsuli (Lake Tsana)5½286½20A small camping ground 100 yards from thelake; a good road from Forehe. Natives unfriendly. Wood, water andbarley plentiful.
Goja (Lake Tsana)19305½730A rough road through the hills whichborder the lake; no water en route; a bad damp campingground on the foreshore of the lake. Another road follows thewater’s edge from Konsuli. This is longer, but said to bebetter.
Dumgi11316½30A good road, and a good camping ground.Poor grazing. Water from lake.
Berbera Kora5321½150A good camping ground in a hollow;excellent grazing. Water supply fair. Plenty of wood. Nosupplies.
Ghimfyva River9½33150A very rough march, and a very bad campin a narrow, rocky, thickly-wooded valley. Cross water-partingbetween Tsana and Atbara systems, 600 feet above Lake. Tracknarrow, twisting, and in places very steep, only practicable formule or donkey transport; descent of 3,500 feet in last 5 hours.Practically no grazing. Wood, but little water in rocks.
River Jera12½343½450Another very rough march. A fair littlecamping ground with good shade; a little grazing. Plenty of woodand water.
Camp near water holes10½354410A good camping ground. The first part ofthe road is rough, but after crossing a ridge nearly 1,000 feetabove the Jera river it becomes considerably easier; thick clumpsof bamboo are difficult for loaded mules to get through in places.Hardly any grazing. Fair amount of water. Plenty of wood.
Ghindoa (Gandoa) River21½375½850A good camp; fair going, except for thethick clumps of bamboo, which are a little difficult for loadedmules to get through in places. A halt can be made at some waterpassed 6 hours 5 minutes after starting. Hardly any grazing. Nosupplies. Wood and water plentiful.
Chincha River22397½820Good going and a good camping ground.Very little grazing. Wood and water as before.
Matemma (Gallabat)5½40320An easy march over a good road.

This road from the lake is the one followed by the Emperor John when he went down to Matemma with some 20,000 (?) men in 1889 and was killed by the Dervishes. The rains had barely commenced during the present journey, therefore there was hardly any grass, and water was scarce during the first 3 days’ march from the lake. Both water and grass must be abundant after the rains, and while these are falling the mountain torrents are said to make the road impassable; it could be greatly improved by clearing the bamboos and other trees which in places almost conceal the track.

129.—ADDIS ABBABA to FAMAKA (S. of BLUE NILE).

By Lieutenant Gwynn, D.S.O., 1900.

Note—
G. = Gara, mountain range.J. = Jebel.
T. = Tulu, mountain peak.K. = Khor.
L. = Laga, stream.
Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Addis Abbaba——
British Residency——The British Residency is situated at thefoot of a spur running S. from the Entotto range, and bounding theAddis Abbaba valley on the E. It lies just clear of the mosteasterly native huts. About 600 yards immediately N. of it is theRussian Agency, and about the same distance to the W.N.W. of thelatter, on the opposite side of the stream, is the Russian doctor’senclosure formerly occupied by the Rodd Mission. For position ofother European missions, &c., see Count Gleichen’s mapof Addis Abbaba (I.D.W.O., 1897).
The water supply of the British Residencyis drawn from a spring on the slopes at the back of the compound,and a surface channel from the spring supplies a small tank in thecompound for watering horses, &c.
The compound is surrounded with a solidmud wall, surmounted by a continuous hurdle work fence.
Gibe (King’s Enclosure)1½1½Lies pretty well in the centre of thetown, on a long flat spur running down from Entotto. The enclosureis formed by a high wooden palisade, and at the present time anouter wall, solidly built in stone, is being constructed. Insidethe palisade the enclosure is divided by numerous stone walls andwooden fences; the buildings are strongly built, but there are manythatched buildings and a lot of woodwork.
Water supply is laid on in iron mainsfrom Entotto, and there is an artificial surface channel justoutside the enclosure.
The town of Addis Abbaba extends about 3miles from E. to W., but the houses are scattered haphazard andthere are no streets; the tracks running between the houses arevery rough, and the crossings of the streams are bad, in particularin the rains. A few rough narrow bridges exist, but are not used inthe dry season.
After clearing the town there is a wideflat spur before the Akaki (Western) is reached, which would form afine camping ground.
Akaki (1st branch)4½6Small stream in deep gully.
Akaki (2nd branch)17Stream, 15 feet wide,1 foot deep, rapid, in a deep gully; very steep on W. side. The colconnecting the Entotto with the Managasha Hills is a finemanœuvring ground for troops of all arms, and is, on the whole,flat and open, though it is intersected by a few narrow valleysdraining to the Akaki. Almost all these contain water. The wholemass of mountains S. of the road is generally called Managasha, butthis name strictly applies to the steep round-topped hill just S.of the road at the watershed. The main mountain is called Wochochuby the indigenous Gallas.
T. Managasha613
Fitaurari Hapto Gorgis’s house lies alittle N. of the road just where the descent into the Walata valleycommences, and his territory stretches S.W. from this point.
T. Managasha is well wooded, as are thesteep slopes forming the escarp connecting G. Managasha and G.Foweita.
The road descends this escarp by a fairlywell graded, though steep, line, crossing several smallstreams.
Kaffa road114About 1 mile after commencing thedescent, the road to Kaffa and Limmu branches off S.W. towards thesharp cone to Wata Dalecho; to the left of the road, near thebottom of the escarp, is the Abunas house, situated among thicktrees.
L. Walata822At the foot of the escarp the woody roadstops and then enters a flat grass valley, in the middle of whichis the Walata, a stream about 20 feet wide and 1 foot deep.
L. Dalota527Between Walata and Dalota flat grassland,with a few Galla farms. L. Dalota, rapid, 20 feet wide, 1 footdeep.
Addis Alem (BritishLocation)1½28½The road risessteeply from the stream to the wooded spur on which Addis Alem isbeing built. To the N. of the road the escarp commences which marksthe watershed between the Nile and Hawash, and extends withoutbreak from this point to the River Gude. The escarp and spursrunning from it are well wooded and well watered, the main spursbeing broken up into minor features. The British and Italianlocations are side by side to the S. of the stream which runsthrough the town; the ground to the S. of them is flat for 800yards or so, and at present fairly thickly wooded. On the N. itdrops very steeply to the stream about 40 feet.
Addis Alem Gibe½29
No building has yet been commenced on theBritish location, but Major Ciccodicola has built several largehouses of the ordinary Tukl pattern, and has laid out and commencedanother house of more European design, the lower story of which isstone.
The Gibe is built on a knoll between twostreams, the drop towards the southern one being very steep. Themain buildings will be on the N. shoulder of the knoll. On thenorthern slope of the knoll is a sort of park enclosed by a ditchand palisade. This is evidently intended for a defensible camp, asthe enclosure on the top of the knoll is too small for anyconsiderable force.
Water supply is not very good for thetown, but a main for the supply of the Gibe is being laid from thespur to the N.E.
L. Barga534Road W. of Addis Alem, though not so wellworn as between Addis Alem and Addis Abbaba, is, on the whole, welldefined and good, being much used by the traders from Leka,Lekempti Walega, and Kelina (Chelim), and the soldiers of DejajDamasi, Dejaj Gumsa (Gabri Xiavrihir), and Dejaj Goti (Joti).
At first it runs along a well-woodedspur, then crosses the Barga, which runs in a deep, steep-sidedvalley, 20 feet by 1 foot; rapid.
L. Jemjem640Between the Barga and Jemjem are severalsmall streams with fair water. The Jemjem is 12 feet wide and 6inches deep; rapid. Road runs at the foot of the spurs in opencountry; the escarp to the N. is steeper and the spurs are shorter;to the S. is the flat open grass land of the Hawash Valley, whichwould probably be very swampy during the rains; the roadpractically is the boundary between Ras Mangasha Atakem’s territoryon the N., and Fitaurari Hapto Giorgis on the S. It actually lies,however, in Ras Mangasha’s country.
Hawash River6½48½Between Jemjem and Hawash the country isquite open. Three small muddy streams are crossed. Hawash, 20 feetby 6 inches; rapid, beautiful water.
L. Bagaga8½57A very small stream, draining to theGude. No water between it and the Hawash on the road crossing thewatershed. To the S. are the Chavo Mountains, and to the N. theescarp rises to a high shoulder at G. Ilfata. From this point theroad traverses a succession of open spurs running N. to the L.Dabis, a tributary of the Gude. On the N. of the Dabis the escarprises in huge terraced cliffs.
L. Meiti or Sellen3½60½Small stream, with good water; beforereaching it a dry watercourse and two small streams arecrossed.
W. of the Laga Meiti the country iseverywhere more or less wooded, though the trees are small, exceptby the streams or on the mountain slopes. This is due to constantgrass fires.
L. Hulogka767½L. Hulogka, 30 feet by 1 foot; rapid; isa fine stream. About 3 miles N. of the road is a church and a hotspring. Between the L. Meiti and L. Hulogka, the L. Awaru drains amarshy valley.
Tulu Dintu4½72Road passes over rather a hilly bit ofcountry, crossing the Taltale and Birbissu streams at 2½ and 3½miles respectively; both small, with good water.
Tulu Dintu was formerly residence ofDejaj Hailo Hariam, brother of Ras Makunnen. Now few huts areoccupied.
River Gude Bridge3½75½Flat country between Tula Dintu and Gude,thickly wooded near the latter; two tributaries of the Gude have tobe crossed, both small streams with good water.
The Gude is a beautiful stream, runningfrom one deep rock pool to another at the bottom of sheer-sidedchannel, 30 feet deep.
A good wooden bridge, 6 feet wide, onstone abutments, has been built, evidently under M. Ilg’sdirection.
The ground near the stream is too thicklywooded and confined to be a good camping place.
The Gude flows N. to the Abai, cuttingthrough the escarp in a wonderful canon about a mile wide, withsheer sides some 2,000 feet high. Beautiful scenery.
L. Kili1085½From the Gude the road rises steeply andruns round the northern spurs of the mountain group whichculminates in G. Ragge. The first ascent is very steep, but road isfully well graded, and the conical peak of T. Befti is left to theright.
Small streams are crossed at 4, 4½, 7½,and 9 miles. About 4 miles N. of the road is a deep valley, runningfrom W. to E. to the Gude, and on the N. side of it the escarprises precipitously. The spurs of G. Ragge are thickly wooded, andare divided by steep valleys.
L. Kili, a good stream, 15 feet wide and6 inches deep, in a narrow valley.
L. Aresu4½90Road rises very steeply from the Kiliover the shoulder of T. Boke, and descends steeply into theHumbolsha Valley (stream dries up) at 2½ miles, then a slight riseand another steep descent to the Aresu, a small stream, but withgood water and a good open camping ground on its W. bank.
Chelia District (Gedda village)10100From the Aresu the road winds round thesouth-western end of the Rafisokili Valley, passing overnumerous spurs and small streams. L. Mata Arba,at the third mile, is western boundary of Ras Mangasha’s territory,and the eastern boundary of Chelia, which belongs to QueenTaitu. Country much broken, and fairly thickly wooded.
The village of Gedda, formerly theresidence of Dejaj Desta (Ras Darge’s son, now dead), is on thenarrow water partly between the Gude (Blue Nile) and Gibbe (Omo)basins; there is a considerable population and a church here.
L. Garsa12112After crossing the watershed the roaddrops at first very steeply, and then more gradually, into theGibbe Valley; the surface of the road is good, and level ground isreached at the end of the third mile. At 1½ miles a road branchesoff to S.W., probably that shown on the map illustrating movementof Bonchamps’ mission.
The L. Ambo, which combines with otherstreams to form the Alengo, is crossed, and the road skirts alongN. of, and parallel to, the Alengo.
Several streams are crossed beforereaching the Garan, and the country is rough.
From Gedda the escarp trends off N.W.,leaving a wide plain, bounded on the S. and W. by G. Kwunchu Soduand Tuka.
The Garsa is a sluggish, muddy stream,running between steep clay banks. Good camping ground W. ofit.
L. Alengo5117Road, after passing a few low spurs, runsover a flat, clay valley. The Alengo, 30 feet wide by 6 inchesdeep.
River Gibbe6123Road continues over flat, open country,passing close to the low, rocky hillock, T. Bertuma. The Gibbe, 45feet wide, 2 feet deep, fairly rapid; clay bank, thickly lined withwillow, bottom gravel. It is a tributary of the Omo, and theeastern limit of the Queen’s district of Chelia. Between the Gibbeand the Wama the country is Dejaj Damasi’s.
Bilo13136After crossing the Gibbe the road skirtsround the northern spurs of G. Kwunchu, crossing several smallstreams and rather rough ground. Bilo is a considerable market andCustoms post, situated on the W. side of the L. Tarli, a good-sizedstream running N. to the Gibbe between clay banks.
From Bilo the main road to Leka branchesoff S.W. between T. Sodu and J. Soksaw.
J. Sodu Pass5141The Lekempti road keeps almost due W.,passing just S. of the summit of Sodu. The ascent is not as bad asit appears, as the road is well graded.
There is a wide open spur just before thefinal rise to the pass begins, which would form a good campingplace. Several small streams are crossed in the ascent.
River Wama12153From the pass, which is a very narrowsaddle, the descent is steep for 2½ miles; small camping ground,with limited water supply at this point. Then road follows a longspur, falling gradually towards the Wama. Wooded slopes and nocultivation. The Wama is a considerable stream, flowing in rathermarshy ground between clay banks, but with gravelly bottom, 30 feetwide, 2 feet deep; rapid. Shown on Michel’s and other maps as atributary of the Didessa. Cattle and sheep plentiful and goodgrazing; the river is eastern limit of Dejaj Kumsa’s country.
Nekempti24177After crossing the Wama, the road runs upa long narrow spur coming from W. shoulder of G. Tuka. G. Tuka isthickly wooded and precipitous, though round-topped. At 5 miles, aroad to Leka branches W. up a broad valley formed by another branchof the Wama. The Leka plateau at the E. end appears steep-sided andthickly wooded. Leka is the head-quarters of Dejaj Damasi, and issaid to be extremely fertile, producing much coffee. From the Lekaroad the track ascends more steeply; country well cultivated andthickly inhabited. Long, narrow, steep-sided spurs run S. from thewater parting formed by the western end of G. Tuka. Water isplentiful. At 15 miles is a small village and church. Between thisand Nekempti many small streams are crossed and ground is muchbroken. Nekempti is the residence of Dejaj Kumsa (called byAbyssinians Gabra Xiavrihir). He is a young Galla, a Christian, andhas built himself a church. His ideas are advanced, and he has agarden for European plants, and is trying to improve the nativecoffee and cotton. His gibe is new and well built. There areseveral Arab merchants established here. The chief market is onThursday, but there is a daily market.
Nekempti is on the watershed between theWama and Angur, and to the N. the ground drops steeply to the wideflat Angur valley.
Sasiga13190From Nekempti the road runs W., keepingnear the watershed, which connects with the N. end of the Lekaplateau. After about 5 miles it turns N.W., and several streamsflowing N. are crossed. At the Sasiga market place on (Friday) G.Jimata there is a splendid view looking down into the Didessavalley, and across the Angur valley, towards the Limu hills; theDidessa and Angur valleys proper were, till recently, greatelephant grounds up to the Abai. The elephants are now practicallyexterminated, and the ground is being brought under cultivation,though, as it is unhealthy, the people continue to live on the highground.
Didessa R.24214From Sasiga there is a very steep descentof 1,200 feet. Then the road is generally level, and crossesseveral streams before the L. Arso, where there is a fine campingground at the 13th mile; thence there is a slight rise to theTankara ridge, which is the eastern boundary of the Didessaravine.
From this ridge the descent is verysteep, winding, and rough to the Didessa, slopes thickly wooded.The Didessa is 150 yards (?) wide, 2 feet deep; current 2½ miles,stony bottom, beautiful water. Good camping place for a small partyin dry season on W. bank.
Merechi8222From the river the ascent of the W. sideof the ravine begins at once. The road is very rough and bad, andground on each side is covered with bamboo. The ascent is in threedistinct stages, the last being much the worst, no attempt beingmade to grade it. Between the first and second stage the L. Jirmais crossed, and a small tributary of it is passed before the finalstage.
Merechi, a small village, Saturdaymarket, and Customs observation post. It is situated on the top ofa ridge about 2½ miles behind the edge of the ravine. Between runsthe Laga Jirma, and the valley is a good camping ground. This isthe beginning of Walega.
Gimbi12234The N. end of the Merechi ridge runs upto the escarp, which now begins to trend N.W. The plateau is veryundulating and broken by confused narrow valleys. There is aconsiderable population, and the country is very fertile. At the10th mile the Garsa ridge, running N. and S., is fairly welldefined; otherwise the features are very confused. The Gallelstream, at 9th mile, is a good size, but water is everywhereplentiful. T. Jerko, a very sharp cone 30 miles to the S., is veryconspicuous, and the road to Dejaj Goti’s country runs N. of it,through the Siva district. Gimbi is the residence of FitaurariAmenti, uncle of Dejaj Kumsa.
Dungoro, L. Fincha13247From Gimbi the general direction of theroad alters and strikes N.N.W. towards Beni Shangul. The countrycontinues well watered, cultivated, and populated, with the sameconfusion of narrow valleys. It passes through the small districtsor townships of Siban (where Fitaurari Debaba, another uncle ofDejaj Kumsa, has a house), Aroji, and Dungoro. This latter isbounded on the S. by the L. Fincha, a considerable rocky stream,which is the last tributary of the Didessa crossed.
T. Eriwani11258Five miles beyond L. Fincha, skirting thewestern slopes of T. Ghinghi, the track is rough and hilly. Severalsmall streams rise in this hill and, after uniting, flow away S.between T. Jerko and T. Wallel, becoming, lower down, the Birbiri,which joins the Baro near Gore. T. Wallel is now very clearly seento the S.W. T. Eriwani forms the watershed between the head watersof the Birbiri and the tributaries of the Yabus. Water is ratherscarce between T. Ghinghi and Eriwani. Fitaurari Debaba’s secondhouse is in a very conspicuous position on the watershed, W. of theroad.
Najo10268To Najo the road is easy, and countryopen. The Lagas, Henna, and Dilla are crossed, the latter aconsiderable stream, in which a certain amount of gold washing isdone. The sides of its valley are very steep.
About 2 miles S. of Najo and 1½ miles E.of the road is M. Camboul’s house in the midst of his trial shafts.This is the most promising part of M. Ilg’s concession.
Najo is only a small village, but DejajKumsa is building a new house there to be his huntinghead-quarters.
Guti Mudema7275Passing Najo the country begins to fallperceptibly, and is much more open. The undulations are broader,lower, and flatter. There is less cultivation, but many morecattle. The inhabitants are few, and are mainly engaged, it issaid, in the gold-washing on the Yabus.
Guti Mudema is simply a post on thewatershed between the Lagas Alatu and Genasi and the L. Deivo,which commands a very extensive view into Beni Shangul and the LegaGalla country. The two former streams flow between clay banks. Allthis country was traversed after a considerable amount of rain hadfallen, so all the streams were flowing strongly. As a rule, theywould be quite shallow.
L. Deivo2½277½Flows in a deep valley, with very steepsides.
Gori7284½A small village, the residence ofFitaurari Densa. Road is over an open plateau with astrongly-marked escarp falling to the W.; to the E. a range of lowmountains, running N., marks the great escarp from the western sideof the Didessa and southern side of the Abai valley.
L. Komiso3½288The ground falls very rapidly into theKomiso valley, which is bound by a very steep, high escarp on theS. Between the Komiso and Mendi there is a wide broken valley, withthe L. Sache flowing past T. Wandi, a well-marked hill 2 miles W.of the road. This hill is the northern limit of Dejaj Goti’scountry, which appears to extend up in a narrow strip along the E.side of the Yabus.
Mendi19307Mendi lies just S. of the last risebefore the road makes its final descent into the Yabus. Here thepromontory between the Didessa, Abai, and Yabus breaks into tworanges of hills, one running due N. by Gumbi and one N.W. towardsthe Beni Shangul hills through G. Gunfi. The road descends by theW. side of the valley in the fork, and is very steep and rough, theside of the valley being, as well, cumbered with with densebamboo.
Mendi is the last Galla village, and fromthere to the Yabus water cannot be counted on.
L. Badeisa12319Halfway down the descent there isgenerally water in small quantities, but the camping ground isuneven, confined, and with no good feeding when bamboo is out ofleaf.
W. of the road near Mendi the groundfalls gradually, with slight undulation, to the Yabus. There isthick wooding, and till quite lately the valley was quite full ofelephants, but these are rapidly being exterminated.
Buffalo, waterbuck, hartebeest, andprobably greater kudu are abundant.
K. Dabeisa7326This practically marks the end of thedescent, and the road from here to the Yabus is easy. Blackpopulation (very thin) begins. Bertas.
K. Yabus or L. Dabus9335Yabus is the Arabic, and Dabus the Gallavariant of the name; was slightly in flood when crossed, and wasthen about 100 feet wide and 3 feet deep at the ford. There isanother crossing further S., near where the river breaks throughthe connection between the Gunfi and Beni Shangul mountains.
N. of the crossing is a wide, flat valleywith some scattered hills.
K. Sheira5340Crossing the river the ground soon beginsto rise. There is a little water in K. Sheira.
J. Aside7347A pass over J. Asideleads into the sub-district of Afodu, which is under a woman calledZem Zem. The village of Afodu is the head-quarters of a Kanyazmach,the Abyssinian commandant in Beni Shangul. Water is drawn from theTumat, in which there are always pools.
Afodu2349
K. Tumat2351
K. Mange7358Through Beni Shangul there are nodifficulties on the road, though the going is bad, owing to theamount of small quartz stones everywhere. The K. Mange is dry. N.of it and W. of the road is J. Fadamo, which is very steep, rocky,and thickly wooded. Here Abd el Rahman’s people made their laststand against the Abyssinians, and it took 12 days’ fighting toclear the hill, both sides losing heavily. The final surrender wasonly induced by hunger.
Bomo7365At Bomo there is a small village, butlike all those seen in Beni Shangul, it is half deserted. It isvery difficult to form an idea of how thickly the country isinhabited, as the bush completely shuts in all the villages. A goodmany were seen from the top of J. Fadamo, but it was a very mistyday and it was hard to make them out distinctly.
Belfodio Khamis5370This is the head-quarters of FitaurariMohammed Wad Hojali, brother of Abd el Rahman (Tur el Guri), and isgenerally called Khamis by the Abyssinians.
Famaka (Blue Nile)60430Remainder of route in Sudan.

130.—ROSEIRES to ABU RAMLA and DUNKUR.

By Major C. W. Gwynn, C.M.G., D.S.O., June, 1901.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Roseires (Abramat)——The road to Abu Ramla is a very narrowtrack much shut in by thick bush and grass. After rain the heavyclay soil produces a particularly heavy and sticky mud.
For 5 miles from the river the bush isvery thick and soil very heavy. From the 5th to 10th mile the soilbecomes more sandy and the bush is thinner. At 12th mile 3 largeadansonias are passed; soil heavy clay but bush still open.
El Geri (Sheikh’s Village)2323At the 16th mile the road reaches the ElGeri hills and turns sharply north-east skirting their foot. Thesehills are not more than 200 feet high and are covered with lowtrees. They form a continuous mass though much broken and rocky.Along the northern slopes there is a quantity of bamboo, and road is stony.Skirting round north and north-east foot of the hills, road comesto a small Hameg village. Water (the first since Roseires) isobtained up a steep valley 1 mile south of the village. Road skirtsthe hills to this point, and then strikes off east again to J.Migin. Ground is nearly flat and clay very heavy, bush thick exceptat the 31st mile where there is a slight rise and open ground.Number of giraffe along the road.
J. Migin1437J. Migin is a small rocky hill. At itsnorthern end is a water hole in the rocks, which seldom is emptied,but which does not appear to be fed by a spring, so should not bedepended on. There are said to be other water holes on thehills.
J. Abu Ramla1754No water from this to Abu Ramla exceptafter rain. Khor Madar, which flows to Khor Zagoli, crossed firstbranch at 44th mile, and second ½ mile further on. Road passes 1mile south of J. Withwith and strikes the Abu Ramla mountainhalf-way along its west side, crossing the large dry Khor Aluk amile before. Road then turns north and skirts round the northernfoot of the mountain.
Mek’s Village458Mek Adam Wad Dafeir’s Village is at thefoot of the north-east corner of the mountain. Several other smallvillages are passed before reaching. Water is obtained from wellsin Khor Ramla, a mile east of the mountain, quality not good, but100 animals were easily kept in water.
Mek is of Fung origin, but theinhabitants chiefly Gumz.
From Abu Ramla, the trade road to Dunkurpasses through Abu Mendi my party left the main track however atthe first point where Dinder is met, and after that no well definedtrack was found till a couple miles before the Khor Adabiba.
Khor Ramla159Leaving Abu Ramla, road strikes almostdue east. The soil is much more sandy, and even in wet weatherfairly good going. Bush generally very thick, principally lowtrees.
Khor Babeheir968Large pool in KhorBabeheir; a khor about 10 yards wide, rising in the Bongo Hills andflowing to the Dinder. Road skirts north of J. Abu Nesag, a lowrocky hill. Road stony, and several small dry khors to cross.
J. Abu Nesag1½69½
Khor Abujar (Abu Holgar)574½Khor Abujar, sandy bottom, was in floodwhen crossed, but would probably always contain water in pools orin wells, 50 yards wide, banks easy.
Khor Ainki478½Khor Ainki was in flood, only justfordable, gravelly bed, 50 yards wide; water always obtainable.Good camping ground, east bank. Just east of the khor there is aslight gravelly rise, but bush still very thick; no viewobtainable. Road turns north-east to the Dinder.
Khor Barageili5½84Khor Barageili. Fair camping ground;water in pools.
Dinder R.1½85½Dinder is reached at the foot of smallrocky hill, J. Mogumbi. Main road to Dunkur appears to skirt alongthe bank, but the ground is very broken and path is almostinvisible. With a view to taking the most direct road, theexpedition crossed the river—about 100 yards wide, stony, androcky. Rapid flow of water, 2 feet deep. Guides missed the track,which was said to exist, but of which there was little or no sign,and when the Dinder was met again it was above the ford the guideshad been making for. River was followed to the mouth of the KhorAbu Gemmeiz, where it was just fordable. Bush traversed was verythick; quantities of water buck, roan antelope, and othergame.
Dinder and Khor1499½River forded just above the junction—100yards wide. River in partial flood, 3 feet deep. Skirted along leftbank of Dinder along a disused track.
Khor Damu5½105Khor Damu, 20 yardswide, rocky with steep banks. Left river and reached 1st Terracewhich marked the beginning of the foot hills. Path came in fromsouth apparently from Abu Mendi.
1st Terrace2107
Khor Adabiba1½108½Khor Adabiba, small khor with largepools; water always found.
Dunkur (Sheikh Nasser’s)9½118The road touches the Dinder at 55th mile,and then turns towards the chief village of the Dunkur district,which lies in undulating ground about 2½ miles south of the Dinder.There is a considerable amount of cotton grown, and tribute toKwara is paid in cotton. The natives are of a mixed Hamag and Gumzstock. Many of them can speak Amharic as well as Arabic. A fewAbyssinians are generally to be found here.

131.—DUNKUR to GALLABAT.

By Major C. W. Gwynn, June, 1901.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Dunkur——
Dinder2½2½About 100 yards wide, 3 feet deep; stream3 miles an hour (but this was after rain). Banks easy, bed stony; agood deal of limestone in the river bed.
Khor Ajban3½6Country on north bank fairly open. Poolof good water in Khor Ajban.
Sheikh Hassan’s1½7½Sheikh Hassan’s Village small, and manyof inhabitants have moved to Gallabat. At the first village, ½ milebeyond Khor Ajban, road branches east to Kwara.
Dardakara6½14Road stony, and crosses a number ofkhors—some dry, but most with good pools—before reaching thepractically deserted village of Dardakara.
Adzko115Adzko also deserted.
Khor Adzko1½16½Large pool of good water in khor: road,very rough, skirting north side of J. Wadrabah.
Site of old Dunkur village in hills toeast of road.
Khor Gelagu420½Village of Gelagu, on south side of khor,only contains 3 or 4 families. Khor is 20 yards wide; unlimitedwater supply, though little stream is apparent.
From Gelagu there is a road round theUmzenidi hill, but the more direct road is over the pass N.E. ofthe village—this is stony but fairly easy.
El Gulut (Khor Afar)6½27El Gulut is aconsiderable Kunjara village on the Khor Afar (a good sized khorwith water in pools). From Gulut there is a road to Kwara. A gooddeal of cotton is grown in neighbourhood. There is a direct routefrom El Gulut to the Khor Dibaba, near J. Bayisa, but a moreeasterly route through Magumbal (a deserted village) avoids thecotton soil.
Magumbal532
Khor Dibaba6½38½Khor Dibaba, 30 yards wide with largepools, is crossed about 1 mile west of J. Bayisa. A very large wildfig tree at the crossing.
Seraf Ardeiba9½48Up to this point water is plentiful, butnone is met with crossing the watershed between Rahad and Dinder.Road is well marked and good. Very little water in the SerafArdeiba. Road skirting this khor is rough.
Rahad R.553Rahad about 50 yards wide, very slightflow of water between large pools. Bed stony. Many crocodiles inpools. Good camping grounds either bank.
Khor Andeiogo457On north bank ofRahad there is cotton soil, trees not so thick but more grass. KhorAndeiogo would generally be dry but there is a small pool east ofthe road. J. Dagarish, a low wooded hill, lies on the road at 59thmile. Khor Teir is a large dry khor.
Khor Tair6½63½
No water obtainable.
Shortly after crossing Khor Teir, ascentof the escarp, extending from J. Madbura to J. Belula, and formingthe watershed between Rahad and Atbara, begins.
The ascent of the lower spurs of J.Belula is pretty steep.
New Shangal9½73New Shangal is on the watershed and hasonly recently been built.
Shangal1½74½Shangal Khor is the first place afterpassing the Rahad that water can be relied on.
Gallabat4½79On the top of the escarp, cultivationbegins and extends at intervals to Gedaref.

132.—FAZOGLI TO KIRIN.

By Lieutenant Jackson, R.E., January, 1900.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Fazogli——Follow Kukuru road for ½ mile, then keepto right and follow road leading about N.N.W. in the direction ofFamaka. Gradual ascent to crest of ridge forming watershed parallelto Fazogli ridge, along which road runs. Numerous small khors rundown on either side to join the river on the N., or the K. Aklulion the S.
Some tukls forming part of the village ofFazogli.
Khor Mogo¼1¼Road descendsabruptly and crosses the Khor Mogo, and shortly afterwards the KhorKulili. Both these khors about 15 feet wide with steep rockybanks.
Khor Kulili¼1½
Road now rises and crosses the outlyingspurs of J. Fazogli. Extremely rough going and ground covered withlarge boulders and rocks. River only about 200 yards off in places,with Famaka plainly visible on opposite bank. Left bank of riverhere consists of perpendicular rock from 10 to 30 feet high.
(Forked Roads)1½3Road continues extremely hilly anddifficult until third mile, where road divides, that on the rightleading to Deshalu and Abu Shaneina.
The road now takes a S.W. direction anddescends gradually into a flat bush. Road good, and level exceptwhere it crosses khors.
Khor Annis Sanganni¾3¾Fifteen yards broad, high banks. On thefurther side cultivation begins and continues with a few intervalsof bush the whole way to Masarkum. Dura is the chief product and isof all three kinds. The crop appears to be a very fine one.
Ainyet (not visited)1¼5Road on right leading to Ainyet (notvisited). Said to be a large village.
Khor (?)16Small khor, 5 yards wide, low banks.
Ragreig Village3¾9¾For the next mile the cultivation appearsto be particularly good and the bush begins and continues almostwithout interruption until within ½ mile of Ragreig—smallvillage—scattered tukls.
Khor (?)¼10Much cultivation. Small khor with sandybottom. Road follows bed for 250 yards.
Ragreig Village1½11½Straggling village on low ridge runningN. and S., at present uninhabited, Tukls in a bad state of repair,and the whole place overgrown with grass.
Abu Gara¾12¼Compact and well kept. The residence ofthe brother of the Mek of Fazogli.
Khor Tumat½12¾Quarter mile furtheron through the dura fields the Khor Tumat is reached. About 200 or300 yards broad here. Very shallow level bed, sandy. Road goesstraight on, crossing it diagonally to where it is joined by theKhor Masarkum. Some pools of very dirty stagnant water here. Betterwater to be obtained about ¼ mile up the Khor Masarkum from theholes dug in the bed of the khor by the inhabitants of this place.The water also is very bad however and full of mud.
Khor Masarkum¼13
Masarkum (Sheikh Bikori)¼13¼A fair sized village, surrounded by durafields. Rest house. Sheep, eggs, and milk (cows) readily obtained.There is (1900) only one cow however in the town, the remainderhaving been looted by Dervishes.
Leaving Masarkum the road runs south-westalong a ridge or plateau on the left bank of the Khor Masarkum. Theground on this side of the khor is much smoother, and there islittle thorn as far as J. Burgan. On the opposite side the bushappears to be thick. There is a quantity of cultivation; dura grownto a great height and producing fine ears. All soil appears good.Several villages are visible on the north side of the road. All goby the name of Ragreig which is probably the word for the class ofslaves or serfs that inhabit them. Road very good.
J. Burgan4¾18A low hill south of road marks the limitof cultivation, and from this the bush is thicker, though there islittle thorn, chiefly low large leaved trees, like young oaks, andthin grass.
Khor Masarkum (1st crossing)1¼19¼Khor Masarkum iscrossed four times. It is here known as Khor Timsah. At the firstcrossing water still in natural pools, and at third crossingobtainable by digging. It is about 20 feet wide, with sandy bottom,and vertical banks 12 feet high. Probably unfordable in flood.
3rd crossing2¼21½
After fourth crossing a dry and waterlesscountry is entered. Hardly any khors, and these extremely small.One patch of cultivation surrounded by a zeriba about ½ mile beyondlast crossing. Otherwise thin bush and grass. Road good on thewhole, but there is a good deal of loose stone.
J. Farfira (Pass)425½Road runs along foot of this jebel forsome distance, and then crosses it by a pass about 200 feet high.Ascent and descent rough and stony, but not very difficult fordonkeys. Rest house here.
Road now keeps close to the foot of J.Farfira, and keeping its original direction, leaves J. Gamella onthe right.
South of J. Gamella there are more tracesof water, and the khors become more frequent and larger. Countryundulating.
Khor El Hassan8¾34¼Khor with hard shingle bed about 30 yardsbroad. High steep banks. Rest house here. Water good and plentiful,but only by digging. Tributary of the Khor Tumat flowingnorthwards.
After crossing khor, country again flatand waterless, and covered with thin bush and grass.
J. Gami3½37¾Road skirts northern spur and then runsin a south easterly direction towards centre of J. Ragreig. Groundnow becomes uneven and much intersected by small khors flowing fromthe neighbouring hills to join Khor Shikatar. This khor rises in J.Ragreig and is at this point about 10 yards broad. Rocks and gravelin bed. Low banks.
The hills comprising J. Ragreig form ahorseshoe, up the central valley between the horns of which theroad runs. After crossing the Khor Shikatar for the first time, theroad gradually ascends a spur running down from the main or westernridge of J. Ragreig. About ¼ mile further on it gradually returnsto the valley, and crossing the Khor Shikatar it rises to the passbetween the main peak of Ragreig and the conical peak immediatelyeast of it.
Road follows course of Khor Shikatarroughly. Ascent nowhere very steep, but rough and stony. Thick bushand trees in the valley.
J. Ragreig4½42¼The pass over which the road runs isroughly 250 feet high. Nothing can be seen to the north withoutascending one of the two peaks on either side, owing to trees; tothe south a good view of the country can be seen, especially J.Keili, distant about 7 miles. This pass forms the boundary betweenFazogli and Keili. Guides state that ridge west of road belonged toFazogli, and that east of road to Keili. Jebel was originallyinhabited, but is now deserted. Inhabitants have gone, some toFazogli, some to Keili, forming the various Ragreig villages whichare scattered about. Descent from pass on south side much steeperthan ascent on north. Road zigzags at first, and then runs straightdown, passing between two small jebels. Very rough and stony. Jebelon right inhabited by Ragreig people, no name obtainable.
Country now very level again with slopedownwards towards J. Keili. Thin bush and grass. Road good.
Khor Magansor2½44¾Thirty yards wide. Rocky bed. High banks.No water at present.
Khor Ofat½45¼Twenty yards wide. Bed here full ofrocks. Water plentiful. Pools still remaining, but water stagnant,and it is necessary to dig to obtain good water (Jan. 1900).
½45¾Cultivation now begins opposite northernextremity of J. Keili, but only in patches, which are enclosed inthorn zaribas. Chiefly dura.
Road runs through centre of level groundlying between J. Keili on the right and Jebels Anguba and Fasholaon the left.
1½47¼Cultivation becomescontinuous, extending to foot of jebels on either side of road.Large trees scattered about, especially near jebels. Mek’s houselies at the foot of J. Keili, opposite J. Fashola.
Keili (camp under J.Fashola)148¼
There is no regular village, as the tuklsare scattered round at the foot of the hills. All the centre partof the valley is more or less under water during the rains.
Rest house here. Supplies of all kindsexcept vegetables and fruit are plentiful. I counted one herd of 20fine cows on first entering valley. Natives will take Egyptian money, but seemto prefer empty bottles or necklaces, soap would probably go well.Donkeys are scarce, and it is difficult to hire or buy.
Road on leaving valley skirts J. Fasholaclosely, and then heads nearly due south for J. Kamye.
Towards south and west there is a stretchof apparently unbroken flat bush to the horizon. Cultivation ceasesalmost directly.
Khor Gulbis1½49¾Ten yards wide, said to flow into BlueNile near Abu Shaneina.
At 2 miles from Keili there is a knoll onsome high ground, with a large and prominent tree, which forms agood landmark when approaching from the north.
J. Kamye——A low lying range of round-topped hills.No rock showing, grass right up to summit. Road passes throughoutlying spurs and knolls of this jebel on the western side. Comecultivation on northern slopes, and a great deal (chiefly dura) onthe south-west.
Khor Dunga453¾Leaving J. Kange on right, road passesthrough some low ground covered with bamboo, probably swampy inrainy season, crossing Khor Dunga, 10 yards wide.
Road now crosses a succession of smallkhors, all running west to join the Khor Timsah. Low ridges betweenkhors.
Khor Umburri3¾57Ten yards wide, steep banks, sandy bed,bush becomes thicker beyond this khor.
Khor Ahemir1¾58¾Five yards wide, low banks where roadcrosses; joins Khor Timsah about ¾ mile further west.
Khor Timsah¼59Twenty yards wide, very rocky bed, steepbanks; flows about due west where crossed by road, but turns northabout ¼ mile further down stream. Probably joins Khor Gulbis.
One large and deep pool of water atpresent, where road crosses, supply considerable, and fish can becaught in it; very muddy water, but appears to be good.
Road becomes more level now, and fewersmall khors to cross.
J (?)2¼61¼Low hills, thickly covered with grass andbush.
Road runs up a central spur. Ascentgradual and road fairly good. Descent on north side also alongspur, but steeper; road not so good, and covered with loosestones.
Khor Gummi2¾64Twelve yards wide; stones in bed.
Khor Mingil½64½A small shall khor. Hills (J. Mingil) nowbegin on either side. Road good, no steep gradients. Bush all overthe hills, very thick in the valleys, but thinner, and long grasson top.
J. Kurmuk3¾68¼Gradual descent to foot of J. Kurmuk.Tukls scattered round jebel, but probably not very manyinhabitants.
Latter all fled at our approach, and verylittle information could be obtained. No water near road, but alittle is said to be procurable further round jebel. Apparentlynothing for sale.
Road to Dul now turns off in a moreeasterly direction, and takes a straight course towards the jebel,which is plainly visible. Country quite flat and shallow until KhorEl Dahab is reached. Bush thick. Probably wet and boggy duringrains.
Khor Wirta½68¾Five yards wide, sandy bed. Just afterthis khor a road branches off to right, which, according to theguides, is used as an alternative road to Dul in wet weather, itrejoins the main road further on.
Khor el Dahab3½72¼Twenty yards wide, banks steep, about 20feet high, sandy bed. Winds very much in and out amongst thesebends for some distance before actually crossing it. Good waterobtainable here at present, also at a place about 200 yards beforethat, at which the road crosses khor. Gold found here about ¼ milebefore crossing khor; there are a number of circular shaft about 3feet in diameter, and some about as much as 20 feet deep, fromwhich the earth is taken. This is the first important khor in thebasin of the White Nile.
Khor Goshindo2¾75Small khor with steep banks.
Road now becomes hilly, and follows edgeof high ground, the ground on the left falling away rapidly to khorin valley below.
Dul2¼77¼No actual town, but a number of tuklsscattered about outlying spurs of Dul, also on north side ofvalley, and khor, which runs down in a north-westerly directionfrom the hills.
The natives depend entirely upon the goldwhich they find, and import all supplies from Gomasha. Nothingseems to be grown in this country. They are an idle and veryunintelligent people, and are unwilling to be of any assistance.They seem to be genuinely afraid of the Abyssinians. Waterplentiful and fairly good obtained in khor.
Road now takes a southerly direction andskirts the eastern slopes of J. Dul, winding in and out amongst itsspurs. Road rough in places and stony, but on the whole good. Tuklson all the high ground.
Khor Biberis1½78¾Small khor with rocky bed.
Khor Adunga½79¼Small shallow khor. Gold pits alongbanks.
Arakuba¼79½A collection of a few tukls on the mainjebel.
Khor Udanduk1¼80¾Actual channel 5 yards wide, it has lowbanks, and evidently overflows its banks. Road crosses it justbeyond the south-western spur of J. Dul, and heads direct for J.Mindon.
Khor Gensogala¼81Five yards wide, sandy bed.
(Forked roads)¼81¼Road divides; that on right going toKirin viâ Kumfo, and Jebels Beldoesu and Fana Gamenta;that on the left viâ Goha, Asosa, and Fadasi.
The former is a direct road, and couldeasily be made fairly good by clearing bamboo and levelling. It isvery little used, however, and there are no villages along it.Water is somewhat scarce. The latter, as far as we went, is a verybad hilly road; but a great trade route and very much used.Probably good when once the watershed is crossed.
—81¼Take right hand road at fork (left toGomasha). Road crosses a number of small khors. Ground betweenlow-lying, and would probably be mostly under water during rains. Agreat deal of bamboo. Road difficult to find.
Khor Ageheni¾82Broad shallow khorwith low banks and sandy bed. Road followed by us did not crosskhor at this point, but took us some distance more to the westbefore doing so. We were without guides, however, and the road isdifficult to follow. Probably we made an unnecessary detour. Plentyof water just below the surface. Natives were washing gold justbelow where we crossed; their tukls are scattered all abouthere.
1¼83¼
J. Kumfo1¾85Small jebels with tukls on them; a littlecultivation; road passes west of them.
Khor (?)186Road passes between jebels, crossingsmall khor, very rough and rocky, and sides of khor steep. Roadruns now along eastern slopes of hills. Very rough and covered withbamboo, which brings rate of progress of caravan down to about 2miles per hour. From here to the camp by the small khor S. of KhorDelligi.
Khor Belligi1¼87¼Twenty five yards broad, very shallow,sandy bed. No water.
Khor (?)188¼Small khor with very rocky bed anddifficult crossing for Hamla. Two large pools of very good water(Jan. 1900).
Road continues in a south-easterlydirection. Bush on both sides, but a small patch of cultivation onthe right at one place.
(Forked roads)189¼Road divides; take right hand branch,leading straight towards J. Beldoesu.
190¼Two small shallow khors, 15 yards wide,sandy.
Khor (?)1¼91½Khor 20 yards wide, a little water ondigging.
J. Beldoesu——Road now keeps along western slopes of J.Beldoesu. Numerous small deep khors to cross, and groundexceedingly rough and difficult for Hamla. On leaving J. Beldoesuroad improves and runs up and across valley between J. Fanaoge andJ. Fanagamenta.
K. Zalan5¼96¾A large quantity of excellent water inpools in the rock. Best place for Hamla to cross is by a sandbank,just above the rock.
Beyond Khor Zalan the road is fairlygood, but progress of Hamla is very much hampered by thebamboo.
(Pass)6¼103Road gradually ascends, and finally runsover a low and easy pass between J. Fanaoge and J. Fanagamenta.Pass about 200 feet high. Descent on south side along easternslopes of valley. Khors are numerous and very deep, but no water.Road extremely rough and hilly.
Khor Ahrakad5¼108¼Small khor with stony bed. A little wateron digging, but supply salty and very limited. This khor is notactually crossed by the road at the point where best water isfound, but lies a short distance to the east.
J. Taza——A fair sized jebel with two peaks andextremely steep sides. Road passes west of it.
Khor Lashe¾109Small khor with steep banks.
¾109¾Road forks; keep to right.
Khor Turus(or Yander)½110¼Broad khor with stony bed.
J. Belsuri——Road now passes between J. Belsuri onleft and J. Hode on right. Rather hilly and rough.
J. Hode——These hills are inhabited, and there issome cultivation.
1¼111½Forked roads in open space; keep toleft.
In the valley, through which road nowruns, there is a great deal of cultivation. Flat bush as far as theeye can reach towards south and south-west.
Khor Gaduk3114½Small khor with steep banks, a littlemuddy water still left above ground (Jan. 1900).
Agani1½116A few tukls; a considerable quantity ofcultivation, chiefly dura.
(Forked roads)1117Forked roads; keep to right.
(Forked roads)1½118½Forked roads—keep to left.
Khor (?)¼118¾Small khor 10 yards wide—south banksteep.
Ashuli¼119A few tuklssurrounded by cultivation. Road turns to left and then bears roundto right, and skirts the southern slopes of J. Gushu; rough inplaces, but good on the whole.
J. Gushu——
Khor Shugalu (Khor Befar)¾119¾Large khor with high steep banks, sandybed. Good water plentiful; much cultivation along banks, includingonions, water-melons, &c.
After crossing khor, ground rather unevenand grass and bush rather thick, until you get close to J. Kirin.Open ground along its base.
Kirin (Sheikh Hamed’sHouse)1½121¼Tukls scattered all round the jebel, butmost of the big men seem to live close to this place.
Open ground at base of hill, and verygood place for camp at present, but might be wet during rainyseason. Water taken from wells in sand about ¼ mile away, rathermuddy, and of a thick white colour like milk. Supply scanty atpresent, and our party finally took their water from Khor Shugalu.Inhabitants most friendly. Sheep, pigs, chickens, eggs, and dura inoverwhelming quantities, were sent as presents. Onions and milk(goats) can be obtained, but supply is limited.
People are ready to sell for gold(native, in rings), beads, soap, old bottles, tins, &c. Beads(blue or red) seem to be the chief thing required. Salt is alsogood. We got rid of a few fasses, but iron does not seem to be inrequest. Spear heads are no good. Cloth of the most brilliantcolours possible would probably also go well. Sheikh Hamed haslarge stores of dura in tukls on the hill, and sold it to us at 3gold rings (each worth about 45 piastres) the ardeb. There is asmall quantity of semsem (5 rings the ardeb) and lubia.
From Kirin the road runs straight onnearly due south. Some bad rocky places, until the spurs of themountain are all left behind, the road then level and fairly good,passing through bush of varying thickness, but with very littlethorn in it, and patches of bamboo along the banks of thekhors.

133.—KIRIN to KODOK.

By Major C. W. Gwynn, April, 1903.

A mixed Hamla—mules, donkeys and camels—was taken from Kirin to Kodok, April, 1903.

No rain had fallen, but more water was found in the neighbouring country than in previous years, so that conditions of water may be assumed normal for middle of dry season, but more favourable than usual for extreme end of dry season.

There was no recognised track, and no guides could be obtained from Kirin, nor would it have been possible to obtain Dinka guides to make the journey in the reverse direction.

The route followed is not necessarily the best, as probably deflections were made by guides owing to inter-village fighting or for other reasons.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Kirin——From Kirin there are several tracksleading west to the farm village belonging to Ahmed Wad Yimr.
Khor Yabus at junction with KhorSerekoli1313Water is obtainable at several places,vide Map.
The Khor Yabus known to the Gallas asAyaya, and to the Khomas as Kizi, is a strong flowing stream 40feet wide and 1 foot deep, rocky bottom and wooded banks. Soil inneighbourhood mostly sandy and firm. Stream full of fish, whichmany Kirin people come to catch and dry. Fishing places do notextend more than 20 miles west of Kirin.
As I had been told the Khor Yabus took asharp bend S. after clearing the hills I chose the left bank, so asto avoid missing the turn. The ground near the khor was stony andbroken by side khors, so marched well clear of stream. Ground firmand bush not thick enough to be an obstacle. If grass had not beenburnt going would have been difficult.
Khor Mia1326Went to Yabus for water at its junctionwith a large khor (probably Khor Mia), coming from the Khomamountains. The character of the Yabus had changed, and now ran overa level sandy bed, water 6 inches deep, banks cotton soil, marshyand high grass jungle. Country on either side almost entirely open,but large trees by the khor. Country from this point to thebeginning of Burun villages swarms with game—buffalo and elephant.Hunting parties from Kirin, with rifles, constantly about.
Khor531Kept clear of banks of khor again, whichwere swampy and had thick jungle in places. Country away from riveropen and slightly undulating.
J. Belshingi and JebelBelatoma132Cotton soil, but fair going. Khor passesbetween Jebel Belshingi on N. bank and J. Belatoma on S. A rockyoutlying knoll of latter close to stream gives a fair campingground at its base. A wide marshy khor comes from the south justbefore reaching this knoll.
Knoll335The Yabus winds round the south end of J.Belshingi and spreads out into two marshy lakes, a small rockyknoll forming the extreme south end of J. Belshingi (though onopposite side of khor) lying between the lakes.
The north bank of Yabus is wooded, butcountry to south is open. Bed of stream winds through wide marshybelt. Skirting the marsh, game tracks gave good going.
Village (deserted) (?) Mago439First Burun village was deserted. Foundit had been raided by Kirin people two months before, and SheikhDigga had been killed. Village had evidently been occupied since.From this village found a good track, and, after 3 miles, bushbecame thick; many dom palms.
N’yunka443N’yunka, a collection of villages amongdom thickets. No men at first to be seen, but surprised some womenwho shortly induced men to appear. Latter very frightened at first.All armed with long bows, wooden pointed featherless arrows andgenerally a spear, and quite naked.
Yabus crossing952A good track ran through wooded countryS. of the Yabus, passing the villages of Toma, N’dinga, Bane Bugga,Ote, Onka and the villages of Sheikh Washa. At these latter crossedthe Yabus, which from this point turns S.W. The Buruns could notgive me any clear account of where it went to, but thought itdischarged into Sobat. I believe it opens out into a swampy lakewhich also receives the Sonka, and part of the water from this maymake its way to the Sobat near Nasser and part into the Khor Adar.When last seen there was a good flow of water. The country to S.W.appeared to be thickly wooded, and I could not ascertain to whatextent it was inhabited.
Track continued to be good, and passedthrough villages of Kanje and Loma, almost deserted owing todistance from Walu to Bangaia.
Bangaia759Hafirs. The village is small and thehafirs are in a marshy overflow from a khor ½ mile S.E. of village.These Burun hafirs are generally dug in marshy spots, and sometimesare merely reservoirs, sometimes really gammams. They are carefullycovered in with sticks, and grass and water is generally clean andgood. At Bangaia very good and plentiful.
Tuer362Small village with hafir—several desertedvillages between it and Bangaia.
Beio5½67½Track good, country fairly open. Smallvillage.
Hillock168½Very small hillock with few huts.
Kyela2½71Kyela is a group of several villages withwide track of cultivation. Inhabitants gone away for water.
After 4 miles track ceases, and guides tookus N.W., avoiding a piece of badly broken cotton soil.
K. Yungen980Lot of giraffe and ostrich. A gammam withsome very bad water in Khor Yungen.
Nyeda383Nyeda, a village with 300 to 400 peopleon Khor Murga (probably the same as Khor Yungen). Poor water ingammams in khor. These are 6 feet deep and fill slowly; barely gavewater enough for 50 animals and 50 men.
From here a good number of people know alittle Arabic or Dinka. The Sheikh is Dar El Sagia, and he has beenfighting with the surrounding villages.
The whole district is called Dar El Imamand was under a Sheikh called Wad Regab Wad Ali. This man wasmurdered some four years ago, and Dar El Sagia claims to be hissuccessor, but is not recognised by most of the villages. This isabout the limit of the raiding of the Beni Shangul people.
Khor Murga is said to be a branch of thebig khor which formed from the khors between Jebel Kurmuk and JebelFanagamenta, passes close to J. Jumjum under the name of KhorTumbakh.
J. Jumjum lies south of J. Mofwa and isthe southern limit of Idris Wad Regab’s influence at present. KhorTumbakh appears to split up into branches, and one probably reachesKhor Adar near Rengachuk.
Hafirs487Two good hafirs. Track bad over brokencotton soil.
Nyeda (Sh. Tukani) camp895After passing hafirs track becomes verygood and goes through a number of villages whose inhabitants hadgone to water. About two miles short of camp entered on a widestretch of cultivation, cotton soil. Scattered villages. No definedkhor, but probably the whole under water in the rains from overflowof Khor Tumbakh. There were many gammams, but water very bad andmuddy.
Dinko Wad Dageig7102Bad going over cotton soil. Dinko WadDageig was last Burun village. It is situated in a grove of dompalms, dry sandy soil. Water from gammam 10 feet deep, plentifuland good. This village is in about 10° 10′ and 30° 10′ E.
Tibn13115There is no defined track west of this,but hunting parties frequently go to El Tame. Passed over opencountry; cotton soil, rather rough going. Passed the Debba of Tibnlying ¼ mile to right just before entering a track of park land;heglig trees.
Tibn was the most outlying of the Dinkavillages, but had been deserted since the beginning of the Mahdia.Water used to be stored in hafirs, but now none.
A second debba was seen about four milesfurther W.
El Tame10125Heglig trees last for eight miles, andcotton soil is bad. El Tame is a marshy lake, or rather two largepools in a khor, which, however, does not appear to connect toanything.
Water is plentiful, but muddy and fouledby game. There are no trees or anything to mark the position of thewater except flocks of birds. Game very abundant, and both Burunsand Dinkas come to hunt. The latter are very much afraid of theBuruns.
Khor Adar15140Kept S.W. for 15miles. Cotton soil and fairly good going; country generally openwith a few clumps of heglig. Struck Khor Adar at some feriksbelonging to Sheikh Wal Awal at about the point where CaptainWilson’s reconnaissance ended. This point is about 40 miles dueeast of Kodok. The Dinkas, however, in going to Kodok always followthe Khor Adar to Rengachuk and thence across to the Nile at Mialek,which makes a journey at least 20 miles longer and involves severalcrossings of the Khor Adar.
Kodok60 (?)200 (?)

134.—KHOR BOSUK[43], viâ KHOR EINE to GOHA.

By Major G. de H. Smith, February, 1904.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Camp (Khor Bosuk)——
Cavalry Camp (Khor Bosuk)1212The road runs along the foot of the N.slopes of J. Beldoesu; a new road now made along other side ofvalley and along course of stream which is much better going.
From Cavalry Camp, where there is a lotof water (running in khor), the road goes up a slope up theShanendo valley, also called Fanishuman (name of old village). Theascent up the valley is easy at first, but afterwards up steepslopes with rocks. Water is met with twice on way up—at one place arunning stream. There is a bad bit of road just at this stream,difficult even to make it safe for horses and mules. For camels theroad would require zigzaging and grading. There are flat places onthe tops of the spurs where halts can be made.
Khor Eine719From top of pass the road goes along theplateau in an easterly direction till Khor Eine is reached, wherethere is a flowing stream, good shade and grazing, and campingground.
Camp at Goha322From Khor Eine good road round spur leadsinto Goha, about 2 miles before reaching which road branches off toAsosa, going in a southerly direction. The tukls are on the foot ofslope of J. Goha and also all over the top of the hill. J. Goha isa series of broken, rocky hills, and is in reality a spurprojecting from the higher plateau.
There is a fair amount of cultivation inpatches in the open valley. There is a running stream at foot ofGoha Hill on N. side, which is fed by many tributaries, most ofwhich contain running water. There is a good camping ground acrossthis stream on low hills facing the lower N. slopes of J. Goha,water and grazing plentiful. Supplies of dura apparently got fromAsosa. There were only about 20 cattle to be seen, and no sign ofany trade going on or Gallabas about. This may be due to thedisturbed state of the country and the roads being closed.
(Note.—Asmall party of cavalry marched along this road at the rate of 3 to4 miles per hour.)

135.—GOHA, viâ K. BARSU to BOSUK.

By Major G. de H. Smith, February, 1904.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Camp Goha——Left Camp Goha in a north-westerlydirection—road leads across the plateau and crosses some khors.This is a good road and apparently much used by Gallabas, as theircamping places at intervals on the khors were passed—where there isthe usual pool or trickling stream. The road comes to top of passmarked 4,670 feet. From here an extensive view is obtained of Dul,J. Jerok, etc.
The descent of the pass is steep,although the road is well defined. There is only one real goodhalting place on a spur before descending into the Barsuvalley.
K. Barsu914The road crosses the khor at aconspicuous Gemmeiza tree where there is water in small quantities.Further on the stream runs in places and disappears again. A good camping ground isreached a 5 hours from camp at Goha which is used by Gallabas.
Camp Khor Bosuk822The road leads along the khor, waterrunning at intervals of 45 minutes; from this point the roadsseparate to Dul Jerok and towards Mindok. Taking the last one khorunder J. Agadi is reached—good grazing and water here, andvegetables cultivated—from here camp Bosuk is one hour and halfalong the broken ground at foot of slopes of the Beldoesuvalley.
(Note.—Asmall party of Cavalry marched along this route at an average rateof 2¾ miles per hour.)

136.—CAMP ON KHOR BOSUK[44] to ASOSA.

By Major G. de H. Smith, March, 1904.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Camp Khor Bosuk——The road runs along the foot of the N.slopes of J. Beldoesu. A new road has now been made along the otherside of valley and along course of stream, which is much bettergoing.
Cavalry Camp (Khor Bosuk)1212From Cavalry Camp, where there is a lotof water (running in khor). The road goes up a slope up theShanendo valley, also called Fanishuman (name of old villages). Theascent up the valley is easy at first, afterwards up steep slopeswith rocks. Water is met with twice on way up, at one place arunning stream. There is a bad bit of road just at this stream,difficult even to make it safe for horses and mules. For camels theroad would require zigzaging and grading. There are flat places onthe top of the spurs where halts can be made.
Khor Eine719From top of pass the road goes along theplateau in an easterly direction till Khor Eine is reached, wherethere is a flowing stream, good shade, grazing and campingground.
Khor Afaferi1332From Khor Eine good road round spur intoGoha. About 2 miles out on this road Goha-Asosa track strikes it ina southerly direction, goes up parallel to N. slopes of Goha hills,crossing pass on to top of plateau; water-course on N. side ofroad, water also. Nearly at once cross a khor on top of plateauwith water which flows down in direction Khor Zalan. Road rocky infew places, but on whole good. Good camp at Khor Afaferi, 13miles.
Good road crosses a marsh near AbdelRahman Wad Khojali’s village, which is passed after 2½ hours’march. Asosa comes in view across a wide valley which takes over 1hour to get round; a water course passed. Convenient to water herebefore going into Asosa, as water some distance off village.
Asosa1547Asosa is a collection of villages on alarge spur which is part of the plateau and juts out over avalley.
There are three rocky hills, all withhouses on them. People prosperous and well to do. A certain amountof cultivation near, but chief cultivation near a small hill E. ofAsosa. Sheikh Hamed apparently a very determined ruler and looksafter his people. There is an Abyssinian post here of about 15 to20 men.
(Note.—Atroop of Sudanese regular cavalry and a party of mounted irregularsmarched by this route at the rate of 3 miles per hour, forcedmarching.)

137.—ASOSA to KHOR BOSUK, viâ KHOR SURGALLA AND KHOR ZALAN.

By Major G. de H. Smith, March, 1904.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Asosa——Leaving Asosa by roadto Goha and march for an hour along it. Then branch off W. and dropoff plateau on to a succession of small hills, with villages, goingalong crest of their spurs. A few steep and rocky places incrossing khors—to Khor Dadeferi—running stream with village aboveit, not much room for camp.
K. Dadeferi1010
Ascent out of khor steep to village;steep ascents and descents, passing cultivated clearings andvillages (all Hamed’s).
Khor Sirekoli (Surgalla)818Reach Khor Sirekoli (Surgalla), goodrunning stream, pretty open ground here, good camp, grassplentiful. Road now rises abruptly.
Khor Akori624Road, after rising abruptly out of valleyover hill, goes W., very steep and rocky track. Apparently not beenmuch used lately; passes over low rocky hills, a constant up anddown, S. of J. Fanoje and then turns N. along foot of Fanoje hills,crosses Khor Akori, water here by digging, good grass.
Khor Zalan630After a mile strike Kirin road, alongthis to Khor Zalan; water plentiful, also grass.
Camp Bosuk636Go along track for 3 miles, then strikeoff to W., cross khor with water into camp.

138.—GORE to ABWONG (on SOBAT).

By Captain H. H. Wilson, February to March, 1904.

Note.—The route described in this report, after crossing the Baro at 52½ miles from Gore, follows the left bank of that river as far as Itang, thence the right bank to Nasser, thence the left bank of the Sobat to Abwong. From Gambela, 64½ miles from Gore, the best track westwards lies along the right bank. There is no difficulty in travelling by this route during the driest season, i.e., February to May. Practically no supplies can be relied on.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
GoreGore is described elsewhere. It issurrounded by hills, some of which appear to be of nearly equalheight. Country thickly wooded, but being cleared forcultivation.
2½2½Track from here gets bad, going throughforest and over a khor, east bank of which is very steep anddifficult.
3½6Forest gets very thick and tangled, rootsand fallen trees lying across track. Hills very steep.
39Forest gets thinner, and glimpses of Gorecan be had. Villages also appear in the open clearings. Some of therivers hereabouts are bridged, but the bridges are very bad anddangerous for animals, which can in dry season cross byfording.
Rest house3¼12¼House where travellers generally stopfirst march out from Gore, or last march in.
1⅛13⅜Rocky river bed to cross. Route for next6 miles is hilly and thickly wooded; several rivers to cross,mostly with rocky bottoms.
5⅝19Beginning of Bure district; country muchmore open and thickly populated and cultivated; track much lesshilly and wider.
5⅞24⅞Market place on top of a hill; markettwice a week.
Ato Melka’s house4⅝29½Track much better here and hills notdifficult, country cleared of trees to great extent and muchcultivated.
130½Market place.
Ato Takallé’s house5⅞36⅜Situated on a hill. River to cross justbefore reaching it. Takallé is governor of all Bure, and is chargedwith guarding the pass at Goma, which leads up from the Barocountry.
Guard440⅜Guard house on hill (tukls and a “hosh”).Officer stationed here with about 30 men to guard the pass andreport all arrivals and departures to the Ras.
Goma646⅜Rest houses on the top of pass. Descentfor first two miles very difficult, track winding amongst bouldersand large rocky slabs. It is necessary to use one’s hands and kneesin getting up some of the places.
2⅛48½Enter forest and cross mountain torrent,which would probably be impassable after heavy rains. From heredown to the Baro ford is not difficult, though tiring, and, exceptfor one or two bad ravines, loaded animals can get along withoutmuch difficulty.
River Baro (ford)452½Baro Ford spanned by a very rickettywooden bridge, which is no longer safe. Animals and men crossriver-bed in dry season: 3-4 feet of water. Crossing very difficultowing to rocky uneven bottom and strong current, river here beingsuccession of rapids. After crossing Baro, track leaves river andruns round hill, joining river again about 4 miles further on, fromwhence track follows river more or less closely as far as
Gambela1264½Long scattered district, villages mostlyon R. bank; a few small villages hidden in the forest on L. bank,inhabitants of which fled on appearance of Abyssinians. Recognisedferry here, two dug-outs. River, however, fordable for animals(January 14). Thick forest both banks. River full of hippos andcrocodiles. Track leaves river here and runs about a mile inland asfar as
R. Bonga1½6610 yards wide, 10 feet banks, and 1 to 2feet water. Sandy bottom and passage easy. The regular trackwestwards from Gambela is on R. bank. I, however, followed L. bankto investigate. Gambela is called by the Anuaks Egelo. Track fromhere very bad, almost nonexisting, it being necessary to hew a waythrough the jungle in places. Ground very rocky at foot of smallhills.
River Ichok1177
River Wonkai1½78½
River Wangd Wong179½
River Wanten¾80¼All above dry (February, 1904). Widthfrom 20 to 50 yards. Sandy bottoms and steep banks. Must be quiteimpassable after heavy rains, but Anuaks say that they quicklydrain off.
Ile de Faidherbe½80¾Series of rapids and small islands in dryseason. Site where steamer was stranded marked by huge stone like atomb-stone, 10 feet high, on a grass-covered island, which issubmerged at high Nile. Anuaks and Abyssinians say the Faidherbewas carried away about three months after being left there, inthree pieces, by Joti’s and Tesemma’s men, 200 to 300 men carryinga section on a tree trunk. Traces of broad track cleared for thispurpose on river bank noticeable now. Small village right, track onleft very bad, runs through long grass and forest to beginningof
Finkio (Penkio) (site of TradingStation)7¾88½Finkio; nativespronounce it Finkio, not Penkio. Villages, i.e., clustersof huts or homesteads all along river here onwards. Names ofvillages marked on map are misleading, as the name applies to adistrict perhaps 10 miles long. A shorter track exists from nearOgara to Itang, but I could not take it, as it was past mid-day,and I had to halt on water. Track on to Itang from Nyokwar verybad, as it follows all bends of river except in one place, andground is a succession of small deep gullies that are impassablefor transport unless ramped, or marched round.
Nyokwar14½103
Ideni14½117½Beginning of district of Ideni R. andItang L.
Itang3120½Eastern boundary of Itang Enclave. SheikhGelo, brother-in-law of Sheikh Nagor, of Ideni. Gelo is much fearedby Anuaks, whoapproach his presence on all fours. Baro fordable here (February),2 to 3 feet deep. Fine Gemmeiza trees at Itang, and good forest offuel trees in vicinity.
Most of these distances will not comparewith the map, as there is no regular track on left bank. Owing toswampy nature of country in rains, track continually changes asfresh ground becomes passable and country dries up and gets burnt.Track in places dangerous, as it runs through dense long grass,within a foot of a 10 to 15 feet drop into river. Cows andtransport animals fell over this on several occasions.
Ajuoto1121½Track between Itang and Gambela must befollowed on right bank, that on left is too bad. Cross river atItang. One mile on is village, part of district of Pangmala,village being under Sheikha Ajuoto. This village is situated in adense rubber forest, and the rubber vines are found all along theriver in the Anuak country. Nobody collects the rubber. Allapproaches to this village were closed with thorn “abattis,” owingto the presence of Abyssinians.
1122½Cross a small khor, which is sandy andfordable for animals at this point only at this time of year. Thereis a shorter track, which leaves the Sheikha’s village on theright, but leads to a wide part of the khor, impassable to animalsowing to deep mud. Track now runs along edge of dense forest rightand broad khor left, with forest beyond.
3125½Forest left ceases and khor runs intoopen plain. Track crosses khor several times; liable to be muddyand difficult.
2127½Big khor runs down from forest on rightto river, passable only close up to forest.
1128½Another big khor to cross, similar toabove; mouth of this khor very deep and steep, impassable foranimals, which must cross up by forest. Track now inland, 1 to 2miles from river.
11½140Big khor to cross with lake inland, about1 mile from river.
Kaich1141Large Nuer village marked as Kaich, butname not recognised. Track from here uniformly good, passing over abroad grass plain which lies beyond the belt of trees that fringethe Baro and the forest further inland. The plain is burnt inJanuary and becomes passable; it is under water during the rains.Several Nuer dry season villages along the plain, but these peopleall go off in the rains inland; probably a few small villagesremain, that are built on small mounds. Game abounds in the forestinland here.
3144Track strikes a big khor and runs alongN. bank of it for 1½ miles, and then crosses it. Villages dottedall along khor.
2146Cross khor again nearits junction with river near big round island. River round thisisland (S. channel) is very rapid and difficult. Villages all alonghere, track runs inland and passes big village shown on map asKaig, which name is not recognised. Nuers have mostly left thisvillage since traders arrived.
Kaig5151
R. Adura1152Balamkun, or Kwemnum, eastern junction ofAdura with Baro. Adura mouth dry (2nd January), but water in largereach further along. Good gemmeiza trees all along Baro up to herefor last few miles, but no trees met with after this until Ajungmir(mile 216).
K. Chaich4½156½Khor Chaich, not shown on map.
R. Baitiok3⅞160⅜Khor Baitiok dry (February), 10 yardswide, shallow; track has followed this khor for last threemiles.
K. Jokau½160⅞Khor Jokau, 2 to 2½ feet of water, verystrong current, waterway 20 feet wide. Natives all say that this isthe only mouth of Garre and that Khor Machar does not communicatewith Garre. Villages of Baitiok, or Chanchai opposite on left bank.Cultivation—both banks and huts. These Nuers come from Garjak wheretheir wet-season villages are.
3163⅞Big shallow khor, full of weeds butnearly dry. Track all along here is excellent, several miles inlandfrom river; burnt grass plain.
Kwe6¾170⅝Large winter village of Nuers, Kwe; veryfriendly; track now descends to the river at
K. Machar3173⅝Only a winter (dry season) residence;groups of these temporary villages are dotted about. Khor Machardried up. Natives say it does not discharge water, but only fillsup from the Baro. The mouth of Khor Machar is much bigger than thatof Jokau.
5⅝179¼Big khor runs E. and W. with water in it.There is no track here at all (February, 1904), and way had to beforced through jungle of rank unburnt grass.
Kamkiri (E.)6⅞186⅛E. end of island of Kamkiri. Village ¾mile inland. River called Mainyal; only temporary. Distances fromMachar are probably all too long, owing to winding about throughthe grass; under similar circumstances however they will not befound to be much less.
Kamkiri (W.)3½189⅝W. end of island of Kamkiri. Not a treevisible anywhere, and no shade available. Grass unburnt (21stFebruary), and going very difficult.
10½200⅛Khor with half a foot of water init.
K. Loinkildom4¼204⅜Khor muddy, steep banks, probably thatshown on map as Loinkildom, which name was not recognised.
¼204⅝Another khor similar to above.
K. Makeir⅝205¼Khor Makeir and village right, very bigkhor, 15 feet deep, 40 to 50 yards. Wide sandy bottom, dry andpassable in places (February). Water in deep pools.
6211¼Going as bad as before. Thin bush startsright.
1¾213Khor with water in it; muddy bottom, 3feet wide, 3 feet deep.
K. Nyakol2215Ten yards wide, 6 feet deep, 3 feet ofwater with mud; very perpendicular banks; this was a very badobstacle, even the saddles having to be taken off mules’ backs(February 22).
Ajungmir1½216½Village on right bank, trees near.
3¼219¾Track cuts across corner and strikesriver again at
Nyariau1¾221½Village of Nyariau, in 3 parts; 1 smallpart on bank of river, and 1 large and 1 small about 10 yardsinland. Track runs inland through bush and forest, and strikesriver at mile
2223½Very thick gemmeiza trees left bank, bushright. River fordable here (February, 1904).
3⅛226⅝Beginning of Anuak, part of Taufot, rightbank. Track cuts across here to
Taufot1¼227⅞Taufot (Nuer), very big compact village;stands back. Latest map shows big island near Taufot, but it isnon-existent.
Khor Wakau2¼230⅛Thirty yards wide at mouth, but opens outto nearer 150 yards higher up. Muddy bottom; 20 feet deep in rains,3 to 5 feet in dry season. Big village of Kadbeg short way upWakau.
Nasser3233⅛Nasser left, Kwoinlualtong, right bank,for the last 2 miles upstream from Nasser. River not fordable here(February), but animals swam over at lower end of island, oppositeNasser, without difficulty.
1234⅛Track enters forest (heglig and talh),track bad; cracked cotton soil.
Tolor5239⅛Khor and fishing village of Tolor; khor60 yards wide, and 3 to 5 feet deep, muddy. Track follows khor downright bank, and crosses it at junction with river at mile
2¼241⅜Crossing 3 feet deep, artificial channelfor catching fish. Track now follows river for 1½ miles, then cutsacross corner for Manajok.
3⅝245Khor with 2 feet of water in it; goodcrossing.
Manajok2⅞247⅞Manajok, Nuer part of village; swampbetween village and river, few trees.
¼248⅛Anuak part of village on bank, goodMeshra, thin bush behind.
Nyakoik1⅝249¾
⅜250⅛Thin heglig forest. Huts all along fromNyakoik.
Tuargai⅝250¾
Shillup6½257¼Good heglig forest left most of the way,and plenty of shade trees, though none shown on map. A khor 3 feetdeep, just before reaching Shillup. Track follows river till
Nyanglang2⅝259⅞And then cuts across corner throughforest to Fauwel.
Fauwel2¼262⅛Large scattered village, running backinto the woods; good shade trees and meshra and camping ground.Track all along bank.
K. Nyandieng2⅞265Very broad mouth, 1½ miles wide; maindischarge about 1 mile further on, deep and artificially deepenedfor fishing; crossed by two rough bridges. This khor is said toconnect with Nerol (Khor Filus). Some Nuers say it does, and somenot.
Manchom3⅝268⅝Shown on map as Sholwaga.
Shwol3271⅝Shown on map as Fugah. Track from here onedge of forest, swamp between it and river.
Gaiyat2⅛273¾Shown on map as Abong. Nuers would notaccept three names above as per map. A lot of these Nuer and Anuakvillages have two or more names, and people who use one namepretend not to know other.
Patiyam2275¾Thick forest behind swamp; few good shadetrees on bank. Track runs along edge of forest some distance fromriver.
Gohinya3¼279Scattered village hidden in forest.
Fanyang3282Scattered village in heglig forest. Trackfrom here runs over dry swamp. A track exists at certain seasons ofthe year, generally when grass is burnt, from Nyangdeng to nearFanyang, saving a big round by the river. A track also exists fromFanyang to Wigin in a direct line, but was reported to be stillchoked with grass (3rd March, 1904).
Malwal3¾285¾Track leaves river within sight ofMalwal, then runs through long grass to near Fedwil, then alongedge of khor and through bush to
Wigin4⅛289⅞Small village 20 yards back from river,with deep swamp between village and bank (dry marsh), 2 poor shadetrees in village. Track gets on to river bank at 291st mile.
1⅛291Good shade trees and thick bush; thickforest right bank ½ mile inland; end of Nuer country, though allalong from Nasser the country is populated with Nuers and Anuaksmixed, Nuers predominating and letting Anuaks live on suffrance.From here onwards path is through bush to
Shwai1292Long scattered Anuak village.
Fatiwanyang4296In thick bush. From here to Yakwoik broadswamp between bush and river. Track in dry season runs overswamp.
2⅝298⅝Khor with 2 feet water; several otherkhors to cross, marching along this swamp.
Yakwoik3301⅝Anuak village on river bank. No bush,only grass plain round village.
1½303⅛Junction of road thatcuts across to Gnok with river track. Good meshra at junction;thick bush left. Bush and few trees right. One mile inland. Fromhere track cuts across country to a debba on the river (DebbaDishin), where Yuzb. Abdel Rahim Eff. Nur El Gawab was buried in1902, having died on the way to Nasser. From here track followsriver, crossing two khors.
Debba Dishin13316⅛
Abwong[45]6⅝322¾A very big and important khor flows intothe Sobat at Abwong, called Wangnait; this runs inland pastFanathiang, and is said to join khor Filus at Nerol. Two feet ofwater in Wangnait (March, 1904), and running water. Abwong on sandyground, good meshra; upstream limit of Dinka country. Serut flieswere very bad, all through the thick bush country from Fauwel toYakwoik.

139.—GONDOKORO to UGANDA (and MOMBASA).

(Compiled by the Editor.)

Gondokoro and neighbourhood. (Vide also [ end of Chapter II] in Vol. I.)

By Captain Dugmore, 1901.

Country.Near Gondokoro the country is perfectly flat and 30 feet above the river, covered with borassus palm near the station, sidr, sunt, and a few tamarinds and sycamore. Due E. lie the hills of Belinian (about 11 hours’ march). The surface soil is sandy and the sub-soil clay. There are many very fertile islands in the Nile covered with cane-like reed, very like papyrus. Natives prefer to live on and cultivate these islands, as they are not subject to white ants, grasshoppers, caterpillars, and blight, with all of which cultivation has to contend on the mainland. Flocks of small birds do great damage to grain crops. At high Nile these islands are subject to inundation; the natives then go over to the mainland.

The station now occupied at Gondokoro occupies the site of the old Egyptian post—a good many of the old trenches and parapets still exist. The old buildings, &c., have long ago fallen into the river, which is said to be twice (?) as wide now as it was in Baker’s time. Baker’s old camp (“Ismailia”) is in a swampy, low-lying piece of ground, about 2 miles N. of the old Egyptian station. Two date palms, 11 lemon trees, and two custard apple trees, still remain at Gondokoro.

Rain percolating and the river washing away cause continual falls of the bank.

Garrison.One company of Uganda Rifles (Sudanese), under a British Captain, Lieutenant, and Sergeant-Instructor. A small number of Police or Constabulary have been added, and are under the control of the Civil Authority, viz.: a Collector.

Supplies.At present nearly all stores, ammunition, and clothing, come from Mombasa, India, and England, viâ Kampala. Food is obtained by purchase from the natives.[46]

Natives grow red dura and maize chiefly, also a small amount of semsem, telabun, ful (ground nut), and lubia (small pea or bean). The ground nut does particularly well in the sandy soil. The sweet potato requires irrigation, and the natives do not take kindly to such laborious work.

Climate.The climate is fairly good, the rainy season at its commencement being the worst time of the year. Temperature:—

Averagemaximumduring thehot months is99°in the shade.
„minimum„„85°„
„maximumduring therest of the year is88°in the shade.
„minimum„„74°„

Seasons.Hot weather commences middle of November and lasts till end of March. Rains commence (or should do so) last week in March and last till middle of June, they commence again middle of July and last till middle of October.

The rains are erratic, there being sometimes a drought and sometimes too much rain.

Products.Dura, maize, semsem, ground nuts, beans, and fish. A small quantity of ivory. Salt from the left bank. Ostrich feathers from the Latuka. (N.B.—According to recent game regulations, it is forbidden to buy feathers unless it can be shown that they were pulled from a tame bird.)

Cattle.In the Nile province generally, the goats and sheep are small (much smaller than those of the Sudan), and have little to recommend them. The cattle (the few that are left) are also small, but are good milkers on the whole.

Game.Elephant, hippopotami and rhinoceros plentiful, especially the two former, a few zebras and giraffe, hartebeeste (? Jackson’s), waterbuck, bush buck, cobus Thomasi (Uganda cob), and dig-dig abound. Buffalo and warthog may be met with. Lion, leopard, and wild cat are fairly plentiful. (N.B.—During the dry weather months the game is found near the river in quantities; when the grass is high and there is water inland, it is not so easy to see much). Guinea fowl, greater and lesser bustard, quail snipe, ducks, geese, and other waterfowl and partridges are nearly always to be shot.

(a.)—GONDOKORO to WADELAI.

By Captain Dugmore, 1901.

Place.Miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total.
Gondokoro——A good road, though apt to be swampy inthe rains.
River Kit1212Cross River Kit; a sandy river about 180yards wide, which is easily crossed except after very heavy rain(it subsides quickly). On the E. Lokoya’s chain of hills, about 11hours march; greatest height about 1,500 feet. Road through densethorn scrub, sidr very plentiful. Soil changes after passing Kit toa clayey formation in places, and stones and rocky kopjes becomeabundant. A rose quartz, very similar to the Rhodesian gold-bearingquartz in appearance, is plentiful. Most of the kopjes appear to beof volcanic origin. Ground rises in undulating folds from the Kitto opposite Dufile.
Fort Berkeley1022From Fort Berkeley (= Bedden—abandoned),two roads lead S., one inland on the high ground for use during thewet season.
Adam Madi830The river road follows the river as faras Adam Madi’s,[47] and is used when no water is obtainableon upper road. Fine scenery, very rocky ground, sandy; plentifulremains of old Bari villages. Near Adam Madi’s-beautiful park-likecountry, with very large timbers, both tamarind and (?) sycamore.Country now becomes more hilly and is more thickly populated.
The Khor Um or Uma is the real southernboundary of the Bari tribe, but the district is supposed to extendto the
Khor Assua6999Khor Assua (mouth 94 miles from Gondokoromeasured along the river) and, consequently, includes a fewvillages of Madi and Shuli tribes.
The road used to go some little way fromthe river to Affuddu (a few miles S. of Nimule, now abandoned), butsince the occupation of Nimule, the road from Adam Madi’s almostfollows the course of the river, which flows through high, almostprecipitous banks.
Nimule17116Garrison at Nimule, two companies ofSudanese (124 strong each), and the same number of British officerseach as at Gondokoro. Is headquarters of Nile military district,situated on N. bank of Unyama river at its junction with the Nile.Between Nimule and Wadelai the road is good.
Lamogi, in the Shuli country, 16 miles W.of Fatiko, and 50 miles S.S.E. of Nimule, is now abandoned; rainsabout 9 months in the year.
Wadelai77193Wadelai, on the right bank, is thehead-quarters of the Nile Province Civil Administration, somepolice or constabulary are posted here. River only 200 yards widehere. There is a road from here to Fajao (Murchison Falls), 46miles, not used now.
As one goes S., the climate generallybecomes cooler than at Gondokoro. It should also be healthier, butthere has been a lot of sickness among the British officers in thepast, perhaps due to bad quarters. Country S. of Khor Assua is morefertile and much more thickly populated than the Baridistrict.

Note.—See also report by Mr. F. Pordage, Public Works Department, Uganda, in Uganda Intelligence Report, No. 15; and Handbook of Uganda, pp. 52-57.

(b.)—GONDOKORO to WADELAI.[48]

Place.Miles and Hours.[49]Description.
Intermediate.Total.
Miles.Hours.Miles.Hours.
Gondokoro————Path good.
Laung113½113½Path good, river Gomoro (Kit) is at timesbad to cross.
Camp134½248Path good.
Camp1553913Path good.
Fagiri1245117Path good; rocky in places. Largevillage; considerable supplies of food.
Keri1356422Path bad for 2 miles, remaindergood.
Arabu165½8027½Path very bad.
Junction Camp134½9332Path bad. River Assua difficult to cross.When in flood about 80 yards wide and 14 feet deep, with a swiftcurrent; when not in flood the river is fordable. Crossing is atall times dangerous on account of the numerous crocodiles.
Nimule144½10736½Path good. River Unyama at times bad tocross.
Zaipi18412540½Path good.
Boreli10413544½Path good.
Acho165½15150Path good. River Zoka at times bad tocross.
Pranga16616756Path good.
Avoi13418060Path good. River Chorr is at times bad tocross.
Wadelai19619966

Note.—A small supply of food can usually be supplied at each of the above camps, with the exception of the Junction Camp. Water is obtainable at all camps. At many places fish can be bought. Trade goods are brass, wire, small white beads, candles, matches, bottles, and some cloth. Tarbushes are much appreciated by the chiefs. Hippo. abound in the Nile, and elephants between Nimule and Gondokoro. Lions are seen occasionally.

See also reports by Col. Coles, D.S.O., “Nimule to Gondokoro, and Gondokoro to Nimule,” in Uganda Intelligence Report, No. 19.

The following short account of the country between Nimule and Gondokoro is given by Sir C. Eliot (July, 1902), from Geographical Journal, December, 1902:—

“Immediately after Nimule begin the rapids, which render the river unnavigable up to Bedden, about 30 miles above Gondokoro. This latter station and Nimule are connected by two roads, neither of them good. One keeps close to the Nile, and was impracticable when I made the journey, as it was under water owing to recent rains;[50] the other runs further inland. It cannot be said to offer adequate means for communicating between two Government stations, or for the transport of any sort of goods. For a great part of its course is obstructed by marshes, thorn bushes, or grass 6 feet high; but here and there it passes through pleasant open meadows, studded with large trees. Part of it consists of precipitous paths cut in the rock, and it is crossed by many rivers, at least three of which, the Assua, the Karpata (?), and the Kit (or Kiti), present serious obstacles to foot passengers when in flood, as I found them. The first is crossed on rafts made of ambach, a very light wood. The natives show considerable skill in guiding these rafts across the torrent, but the passenger or load is generally half submerged. The two other rivers have to be crossed by wading, and are about 4 feet deep. The Kit was about 150 yards wide. The whole journey took me 7 days, that is to say, 6 night camps. The distance is between 110 and 120 miles.”

THROUGH COMMUNICATIONS WITH MOMBASA.

(Compiled from Official Publications, &c.)

Plenty of notice must be given by the intending traveller, in order to secure the use of porters, boats, mules, and carts.

Nimule to Butiaba.From Nimule onwards the traveller can generally make use of Government boats. Between Nimule and Wadelai ([51]93 miles) the usual craft is a small steel rowing boat, and from Wadelai to Butiaba ([51]72 miles), (the Uganda Government Depôt on the E. shore of Lake Albert), a large steel boat which goes best under sail. The usual time occupied between Nimule and Butiaba is 10 to 12 days up stream, and 5 to 8 days down stream. A steam launch will shortly be placed on the river between these points.

Butiaba to Kampala.At Butiaba is a pier and landing stage. From Butiaba viâ Hoima to Kampala, 157 miles (telegraph), the road is fairly suitable for driving. The distance has been done in 4½ days, but the usual time taken is 8 days (driving) to 12 days (marching, with porters). The Stages are:—

Miles. Miles. Miles.
1.Wachi62.Kajura93.Hoima[52]13
4.Kigonna105.Kikonda8½6.Yilo17
7.Kigoma[53]98.Kiboga5½9.Kisingo9½
10.Kative15½11.Kabula Mnbiro912.Nkvanuna11
13.Kikandwa13½14.Kisimbiri1115.Kampala9½

Most of the main roads pass through Kampala.

Kampala to Entebbe.From Kampala to Entebbe, the capital, situated on the Victoria Nyanza, is 23 miles along a good cart road.

Entebbe to Port Florence.From Entebbe there is a fortnightly steamer across the lake to Kisumu, or Port Florence, the terminus of the railway to Mombasa. The crossing takes 2 to 3 days per steamer, and up to 10 or 15 days by sailing dhow.

Port Florence to Mombasa.From Port Florence to Mombasa there is a weekly train (or more)—fare, 109½ rupees; the distance, 584 miles, is traversed in about 2¼ days.

There is a monthly service from Mombasa, both by British India and by German steamers.

Recapitulation.

Journey.Days.Transport.
Gondokoro to Nimule7 to 8March on foot. Carriers.
Nimule to Wadelai6 „ „
„ „ 6 to 8Row-boat.
Wadelai to Butiaba4 to 6Sailing boat.
„ „ 3Steam launch.
Butiaba to Kampala4 to 8Mule cart.
„ „ 10 to 12March. Carriers.
Kampala to Entebbe1Mule cart.
„ „ 2March. Carriers.
Entebbe to Port Florence2 to 3Steamer.
„ „ „ 8 to 15Sailing boat.
Port Florence to Mombasa2½Train.

Record possible, Gondokoro to Mombasa: 25½ days.

140.—ROADS in the LADO ENCLAVE.

Roads.A road runs from Kiro to Rejaf direct, at some distance from the river bank, with a branch road to Lado.

The road from Rejaf as far as Faraji—170 miles to the S.W.—is about the same width as a good English high road. It has many bridges over streams, small khors, &c. They are made of wood and are not at all strong. There is a project to run automobiles[54] over this road, but the bridges are not at present (June, 1903) strong enough. One automobile will probably run between Rejaf and Yei station (94 miles), and another from Yei to Dongu (62 miles), as there is no bridge over the Yei. The Yei and Dongu are 40 to 60 yards broad and very deep during the rains.

There are some parts of the road which are worse than others, and it is proposed to have small stations at which bullocks will be kept in order to pull the automobiles over them.

There are rest-house stations every two or three hours the whole way from Rejaf to Dongu and Ibembo (v. below). At each of these stations there are houses for Europeans, and at a great number of them bananas, pawpaws, fowls, eggs, &c., are now obtainable.

Vegetables, bananas, &c., are being planted at all the stations.

Each station is in charge of one or more soldiers.

Loka or Loki.Loka (called also Gumbiri).—Four days (62 miles) from Rejaf. A white officer in charge, and one or two N.C.O.’s. Surrounded by a wooden stockade. About six good brick buildings with grass roofs.

Yei.Yei.—Close to the Nile-Congo watershed. Two days (37 miles) from Gumbiri. Large fortified station, but not yet completed, situated on high ground, from which good view of the surrounding country is obtained. A far larger station than Lado. About ten white officers and a doctor. None of the Belgian Nile stations in any way compare with this one. All white men’s houses are outside the fortifications. About 12 good brick buildings with grass roofs; very healthy.

Aba.Aba.—Three days (32 miles) from Yei. Wooden stockade. Four brick houses and a large one being built for the Commandant. The latter outside stockade. One white officer and one N.C.O.

Faraji.Faraji.—Four days (38 miles) from Aba, on left bank of River Dongu. Brick wall about 6 feet high. Ditch outside; earth from ditch thrown up against the wall. Good brick buildings. Three white officers.

Dongu, &c.Dongu.—Five or six days from Faraji; at junction of Rivers Dongu and Kibali. Brick buildings.

Stations beyond Dongu, towards the Congo, on the automobile road, are:—

A road also leads from Mbima to Jabbir and Gembele.

Bofaki.Bofaki, or Wando.—Important post, and garrison. Healthy. Large rubber and coffee plantations.

Rejaf.Rejaf: on the Nile.—Small post. Bullock carts take 20 days along the sandy road from Yei; usual time 7 days by march route.

Dufile.Dufile.—Small post. There is a railway-track ready made from here to Stanleyville on the Congo; not ready for traffic yet.

At all the posts mentioned there are cattle, fowls, bananas, vegetables, &c.

Mails leave Lado for Ibembo on the 1st and 15th of every month.

From Rejaf a road is being made to New Dufile, thence to Mahaji. This road is joined at Kaji Kaji, about 60 miles S. of Rejaf, by a road from Loka.

From Yei a road runs down the Yei River to Amadi.

LONDON: PRINTED FOR HIS MAJESTY’S STATIONERY OFFICE, BY HARRISON AND SONS, ST. MARTIN’S LANE.

[36]The position of this, described by Lieut.-Col. Colvile, is doubtful. Some Arabs state that Shebba is 8 hours’ march E. of Terfawi (?).

[37]Lieutenant Stuart-Wortley makes Selima to Lagia 140 miles; Captain Hodgson makes it 148, but left the regular track.

[38]Captain Hodgson did it (February, 1903) in under 5 days, including 42½ hours actual riding—nearly 4 miles per hour.

[39]Though Bir Sultan to J. Meidob appears to be the shortest route, the route to J. Anka is stated to be the one generally used.

[40]Conditions may have changed for the better since the delimitation of the Sudan-Eritrea frontier.

[41]For continuation of this route to Sofi on Atbara, vide [Route 13.]

[42]For more recent report Lake Tsana to Gallabat vide Routes [126] and [127.]

[43]About 7 miles S. of J. Jerok.

[44]About 7 miles S. of J. Jerok.

[45]About 64 miles from Kodok, vide routes [47] and [48.]

[46]Cows, £5 to £7; oxen and bulls, £2 to £4; sheep and goats, 5s. to 10s. each; eggs, 8 for 1s.; fowls, 6d.; labourer, 10s. a month. (Mr. F. Spire, Collector, Gondokoro, August, 1903.)

[47]Another account places Adam Madi’s at 42 miles from Gondokoro, and some distance inland.

[48]Taken from “Précis of Information concerning the Uganda Protectorate.”—I.D.W.O.

[49]Distances by time for men travelling light; 25% to be added for Caravans.

[50]I am told by Mr. Pordage that the halting places on this road are as follows:—“(1) Assua river, 11¼ miles; (2) Rake village, 11 miles; (3) Mruli, 12 miles; (4) Lokoya, 12½ miles; (5) Tambur, 12¼ miles; (6) Kogi, 9¾ miles; (7) Nagua, 10 miles; (8) Fort Berkeley, 12 miles; (9) Ibrahim’s village, 12 miles; (10) Gondokoro, 10 miles.” (Total, 112¾ miles.)

[51]By water.

[52]Government Station.

[53]Rest house.

[54]They now (1904) run over a section of the road between Rejaf and Yei.

THE ANGLO-EGYPTIAN SUDAN